From pdzwig at summaventures.com Tue Dec 1 03:30:27 2020 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 10:30:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Fiesta In-Reply-To: <019a01d6c75c$8c82cf70$a5886e50$@aon.at> References: <4a288cde-5de5-e943-5ce2-d0851599ce4b@summaventures.com> <7ffa450b-033e-6d54-1d5a-49c7a8de49df@chello.nl> <0b544bee-4b46-a012-c596-5effa14a8ea3@chello.nl> <019a01d6c75c$8c82cf70$a5886e50$@aon.at> Message-ID: <45993035-f1b5-ccb6-bea8-2a316dca4e42@summaventures.com> I had never noticed that "Escort by Healey", despite having the book from 2002! If it is the car that is illustrated at the top of the right hand page, it would appear to be a forerunner of the Escort MkIII and the performance variants (XR3i, RS1600i, RS1700T etc) that were produced from the late '70s to early '80s. A very interesting footnote - and link to two lines of very successful rally cars: the Big Healeys and the Ford Escorts. Wouldn't it be interesting to know what Ford's brief to the Healeys was. Interesting that Bill says that it was a commission from Ford of America. As far as I am aware the MkIII Escort and its variants didn't go on sale in the US. Is that right? Maybe a corporate-sponsored design study. Peter On 30/11/2020 21:05, Reinhart Rosner wrote: > Kees, > > I suppose you are right. A short look in Bill Emerson's, The Healey Book did show me that there was only one prototype built. > > Interesting: On the two pages about the Healey Fiesta Bill did write about an "Escort by Healey" too and there is a picture of postcard produced by Ford of America as the only known proof. Bill ends here: "Where is it now?" > > Regards > > Reinhart > > > Reinhart Rosner > 55 100 BN 1 225615 > Vienna - Austria > > > -----Urspr?ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Kees Oudesluijs > Gesendet: Montag, 30. November 2020 19:09 > An: pdzwig at summaventures.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Healey Fiesta > > Peter, > > AFAIAA there was only one built. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 30-11-2020 om 18:26 schreef Peter Dzwig: >> Kees, >> >> Thanks. Do you mean that the car I linked to is the *unique* car? Didn't >> realise that it was quite that unusual. >> >> >> Peter >> >> On 30/11/2020 10:35, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote: >>> These two cars are totally different and cannot be compared. The rwd >>> Sunbeam/Talbot Lotus was developed from the Sunbeam Ti as a pure rally >>> beast with the Vauxhall slant 4 derived 2.2 ltr Lotus 911 engine (an >>> enlarged 907) and was very successful at that. Around 250hp in rally >>> trim and 160hp in standard road trim. They are a hoot to drive thanks to >>> the high power/low torque engine, the low weight and the short wheel base. >>> >>> The US spec fwd Ford Fiesta was just jazzed up slightly with some small >>> engine (80hp) and bodywork mods. Healey had very little to do with the >>> car, he just lend his name for well needed cash. Only one was made >>> versus around 2500 of the Sunbeam/Talbot Lotus cars. >>> >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> >>> >>> >>> Op 30-11-2020 om 10:59 schreef Peter Dzwig via Healeys: >>>> I think of the H-F as an oddity and of historic interest because it was >>>> the last car that the Healeys made (but a shame, perhaps, that it was a >>>> Ford!). I have no recollection of its handling. >>>> >>>> Although I too never drove a Healey Fiesta, a friend had a Sunbeam >>>> Talbot Lotus which was a very similar car in concept (fast hatchback >>>> worked on by a well-known sports car company) with great performance as >>>> I recall and good handling. It was a model of what a car might be that >>>> in its turn led to things like the VW Golf GTi, whatever you think of >>>> them. >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> Peter >>>> >>>> On 30/11/2020 04:36, Jean Caron wrote: >>>>> Chris, >>>>> >>>>> I certainly do not see the Healey 100 in the same light as an A90 >>>>> convertible, completely different bodies, but I agree very similar >>>>> engine. As far as the Fiesta is concerned, I am just wondering why, >>>>> other than money, would DMH align himself with a Ford product that, at >>>>> the time, was just an econobox, and not a very good one at that. As Rick >>>>> Neville indicated, apparently it was a quick little car, I certainly >>>>> never drove it, basically read the articles about it, first in Road & >>>>> Track magazine. >>>>> >>>>> Its rarity is not in question, I guess, for me it is so totally >>>>> different that what we were used to see from the Healey family, >>>>> especially being associated with a Ford product. At that time, the >>>>> Japanese cars, such as the Datsun, Toyota and Honda were far better cars >>>>> in that same configuration of models that to me, it would have better >>>>> suited their image. I am glad someone likes it. >>>>> >>>>> Cheers, >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Jean >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Sent from Mail for >>>>> Windows 10 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From: *Chris Dimmock >>>>> *Sent: *November 29, 2020 12:28 AM >>>>> *To: *Jean Caron >>>>> *Cc: *pdzwig at summaventures.com ; >>>>> healeys >>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Healey Fiesta >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Jean, Isn?t that the same as some non Healey journalist describing the >>>>> Healey 100 as a ?modified Austin a90 convertible, which was a pretty >>>>> lousy car in its day?? >>>>> >>>>> The Healey Fiesta Is part of the DHMCo history. And as such, deserves >>>>> some respect from Healey enthusiasts. >>>>> >>>>> Sincerely. >>>>> >>>>> Chris >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On 29 Nov 2020, at 5:13 am, Jean Caron via Healeys >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ? >>>>> >>>>> In the end, no matter how many badges there are on it >>>>> identifying it >>>>> as a Healey Fiesta, it is still just a modified Ford Fiesta, which >>>>> was a pretty lousy car in its day. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Jean >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Sent from Mail >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> for Windows 10 >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> *From: *Peter Dzwig via Healeys >>>>> *Sent: *November 28, 2020 11:30 AM >>>>> *To: *'healeys' >>>>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Healey Fiesta >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> NFI, just thought some of you might like to see this rarity: >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>>> >>>>> > >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Peter >>>>> -- >>>>> >>>>> Dr. Peter Dzwig >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/reinhart.rosner at aon.at > > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From ah100tech at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 04:06:14 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 11:06:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] bolt specs needed In-Reply-To: References: <20201130014930.0F692A0DA8@autox.team.net> <5fc554e2.1c69fb81.87737.45eaSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: As well as the 14 off 2K 6212 mentioned, there is also I shorter one 2K 3046, A7 if you have access to the original parts list Best regards On Mon, 30 Nov 2020 at 20:59, Curtis Arndt via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Sara, > > Agreed about the length issue, it needs to be corrected. > > Some sources for these are *Namerick, Ltd.* in the UK, and *British Tools > and Fasteners* in the USA New York. > > https://britishfasteners.com/ > > https://www.namrick.co.uk/ > > Worse case, I can supply you with a full set of NOS black phosphated BSF > hex bolts/screws for the tappet cover. I have plenty in stock. > > FWIW, the ones you'll get from the two suppliers I mentioned will > most likely be zinc plated, so not 100% correct. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 12:24 PM S.Carr wrote: > >> Many thanks! Odd that your spreadsheet says they are all the same >> length, whereas the Moss cat. has 14 ?long? and 1 ?short? (the one that >> goes through the flat area of the tappet cover?no length given). That one >> *is* available! Ridiculous? >> >> Sarah >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *Curtis Arndt >> *Sent: *Monday, November 30, 2020 1:57 PM >> *To: *S.Carr >> *Cc: *healeys >> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] bolt specs needed >> >> >> >> Sara, >> >> >> >> Here is a modified version of the Excel Spreadsheet with all of the BSF, >> BSW and one BSC threaded fasteners highlighted in three shades of green. >> >> >> >> Note that it lists 15 bolts. >> >> >> >> -C >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 07:43:27 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 09:43:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: <1072789251.2997064.1606781350144@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> <1072789251.2997064.1606781350144@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Everything will always be found at the last place you look. I recently spent ten days searching for a lost wallet. I found it--where else--in the shoes I was wearing the day it went missing. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 7:09 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Yes they do Rick. Keys are mainly for switch locks. There is a key for > the back door of the cab. You close and lock the front door from the > inside and leave by the back door. The caboose has door keys. Even though > the major railroads are not maintaining the caboose that are left, they use > them for a shoving platform for a crew member to stand on and report to the > engineer that is backing up a train when to stop or how fast to go. I also > have switch keys for Amtrak locks, UP locks and keys from the San Diego > sub. As a railroaded you have all kinds of keys. > Mike M (former switchman, conductor and engineer on BNSF Railway) > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 2:42 PM, HealeyRick > wrote: > Do locomotives have keys? Did you ever lose your train keys? Inquiring > minds! > > Happy Holidays, Mike. > > Rick Neville > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_8952846197430561729_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Lost Keys have been found! They were on a key rack in my bedroom where > all the important keys reside such as the padlocks for the solar panel > inverters, sliding glass door locks and old railroad keys. I looked at > that rack at least three times looking for the BN2 Keys and did not see > them hiding behind a ring of railroad keys. I was in the middle of going > through all the Home Depot plastic storage bins of parts looking in every > bag or box in these containers. On a positive note I did find parts that > are needed on stuff I am presently working on. On the other side of the > coin I found multiples like two extra sets of copper tubing for the float > bowl to the cold air box overflow. Now parts are buried again for the next > treasure hunt. I really have to get more organized. > Mike MacLean > P.S. I never realized how many fasteners I really have. > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Dec 1 07:52:47 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 14:52:47 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... Message-ID: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> I should like to buy some form of blow torch, something hot. I?m looking for something hotter than my regular plumbing item and much cheaper and more portable than the big set-ups with which I?m barely acquainted .MIG, TIG(?) and oxy-acetylene rigs with vast bottles on a trolley. I?m after something with which to heat up stuck bolts, maybe do a bit of light brazing or heavy soldering. Something portable ..pick it up, click, use it, switch off & move on. I?ve seen one set-up which has two small bottles, one of oxygen the other of ?High power gas mixture AT 3000?. This latter bottle apparently being a 65% butane & 25% propylene mix. As you may have gathered, I know nothing of these matters As a sample of what I?m looking for, the first task will require a rapid heat to solder or braze nuts onto broken off bolts. Rapid because the bolts are in the underside of the (previous) seat for my ride-on mower. These bolts are surrounded by the foam rubber of which the seat is largely built. Were I able to extract them without wrecking the seat, I could probably flog the seat on eBay for +/-?75.00 which would largely recoup the cost of a torch?? (Parts and labour on ride-ons are ridiculous over here. (UK). For example, I used to take my wife?s Porsche 944S2 to a specialist Porsche garage. Not a Main Dealer. His hourly rate was less than that of the local garden machinery thieves). As ever, I digress. So, what should I be looking at? I see MAPP torches, but they don?t appear to be much better than my plumbing torch .? Or are they? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Dec 1 08:09:54 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 07:09:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... In-Reply-To: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <707c7a73-5bae-426b-a530-0926b6d1b72c@comcast.net> True MAPP gas hasn't been available in the 'States for years; what they sell now is probably similar to 'AT3000.'? That stuff, as you mention, only gets somewhat hotter than a regular propane torch. I have, at times, considered something like this (NFI): https://www.lowes.com/pd/Uniweld-Patriot-Oxy-Acetylene-Kit-K23P/1002461868 bob On 12/1/2020 6:52 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: > > I should like to buy some form of blow torch, something hot. I?m > looking for something hotter than my regular plumbing item and much > cheaper and more portable than the big set-ups?with which I?m barely > acquainted?.MIG, TIG(?) and oxy-acetylene rigs with vast bottles on a > trolley. > > I?m after something with which to heat up stuck bolts, maybe do a bit > of light brazing or heavy soldering. Something portable?..pick it up, > click, use it, switch off & move on. > > I?ve seen one set-up which has two small bottles, one of oxygen the > other of ?High power gas mixture AT 3000?. This latter bottle > apparently being a 65% butane & 25% propylene mix. > > As you may have gathered, I know nothing of these matters? > > As a sample of what I?m looking for, the first task will require a > rapid heat to solder or braze nuts onto broken off bolts. Rapid > because the bolts are in the underside of the (previous) seat for my > ride-on mower. These bolts are surrounded by the foam rubber of which > the seat is largely built. Were I able to extract them without > wrecking the seat, I could probably flog the seat on eBay for > +/-?75.00 which would largely recoup the cost of a torch?? (Parts and > labour on ride-ons are ridiculous over here. (UK). For example, I used > to take my wife?s Porsche 944S2 to a specialist Porsche garage. Not a > Main Dealer. His hourly rate was less than that of the local garden > machinery thieves). As ever, I digress. > > So, what should I be looking at? I see MAPP torches, but they don?t > appear to be much better than my plumbing torch?.? Or are they? > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Dec 1 08:28:53 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 07:28:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... In-Reply-To: <707c7a73-5bae-426b-a530-0926b6d1b72c@comcast.net> References: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <707c7a73-5bae-426b-a530-0926b6d1b72c@comcast.net> Message-ID: I should add that safety is a real concern with highly pressurized, flammable gas (pretty much anything will burn in pure oxygen). There are lots of videos on YouTube and, of course, lots of books. This is one of my go-to websites for welding: https://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/ On 12/1/2020 7:09 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > True MAPP gas hasn't been available in the 'States for years; what > they sell now is probably similar to 'AT3000.'? That stuff, as you > mention, only gets somewhat hotter than a regular propane torch. > > I have, at times, considered something like this (NFI): > https://www.lowes.com/pd/Uniweld-Patriot-Oxy-Acetylene-Kit-K23P/1002461868 > > bob > > > On 12/1/2020 6:52 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: >> >> I should like to buy some form of blow torch, something hot. I?m >> looking for something hotter than my regular plumbing item and much >> cheaper and more portable than the big set-ups?with which I?m barely >> acquainted?.MIG, TIG(?) and oxy-acetylene rigs with vast bottles on a >> trolley. >> >> I?m after something with which to heat up stuck bolts, maybe do a bit >> of light brazing or heavy soldering. Something portable?..pick it up, >> click, use it, switch off & move on. >> >> I?ve seen one set-up which has two small bottles, one of oxygen the >> other of ?High power gas mixture AT 3000?. This latter bottle >> apparently being a 65% butane & 25% propylene mix. >> >> As you may have gathered, I know nothing of these matters? >> >> As a sample of what I?m looking for, the first task will require a >> rapid heat to solder or braze nuts onto broken off bolts. Rapid >> because the bolts are in the underside of the (previous) seat for my >> ride-on mower. These bolts are surrounded by the foam rubber of which >> the seat is largely built. Were I able to extract them without >> wrecking the seat, I could probably flog the seat on eBay for >> +/-?75.00 which would largely recoup the cost of a torch?? (Parts and >> labour on ride-ons are ridiculous over here. (UK). For example, I >> used to take my wife?s Porsche 944S2 to a specialist Porsche garage. >> Not a Main Dealer. His hourly rate was less than that of the local >> garden machinery thieves). As ever, I digress. >> >> So, what should I be looking at? I see MAPP torches, but they don?t >> appear to be much better than my plumbing torch?.? Or are they? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Simon >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 08:41:06 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 10:41:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... In-Reply-To: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Hi Simon, I spend a lot of my time extracting broken studs and bolts ... it comes with the territory and can be both a rewarding and frustrating experience. Here are some things that I have learned (The hard way in most instances) - There is a huge difference between steel bolts seized in steel as compared with aluminium. - When it comes to corroded bolts the problem is that the product(s) of the oxidation which occupy considerably more space than the original metal. - With steel in steel (of cast iron) the usual culprit is iron oxide which has a wonderful property in that it changes to something else of lesser volume when heated sufficiently so, when you can heat the bolt and its surrounding material to a sufficient temperature (not always practical) the seized bolt will miraculously be released at least to some degree. - With aluminium, unfortunately, the same treatment does not work. Heat it until the surrounding material melts and it still will not be released. - If the bolt or stud has been broken as a consequence of over tightening, which is very common with BSF threaded fasteners, and you can get a grip on the offending piece, it will usually come out easily. One of the easiest ways to do this is to place a nut over the top of the broken part then TIG or MIG weld the nut to the fastener. This achieves 2 things, firstly it gives you something to grip and secondly the heating caused by the welding will often help release the fastener. - If someone (never you of course) managed to break off a fastener while trying to undo it then it is almost a certainty that the thread is seized in the component and just gripping and trying to turn the remaining part will not work. - It is really worth learning how to accurately "drill out" a broken fastener. This is particularly useful for fasteners seized in aluminium. The process takes practice and involves. 1. If possible filing the top of the fastener flat then VERY CAREFULLY center punching exactly on center. 2. Drill a small diameter hole well into the fastener (be careful not to break off a drill bit as they are hardened and impossible to drill out). The center drilling is best done on a drill press although a hand held drill can be useful for correcting that critical center position. 3. Once you are satisfied that you have the "pilot" hole drilled on center start drilling the hole out with increasing diameter drills until you reach the root diameter (tapping size) of the fastener and right to the bottom of the fastener. It is critical that this part be done on a drill press and that high speed and lots of cutting fluid are used and take extra care as you "break through" the end of the fastener as you drill it out. 4. Use a pin pinch on the outside of the remaining fastener to collapse it inward. If you are lucky you may be able to grip the end and pull the old fastener like a spring. 5. Carefully run a tap of the correct size down the hole to clear out any debris. Take your time and DON'T BREAK THE TAP OFF OR YOU ARE TOTALLY SCREWED ! So back to your question. If the fasteners have been broken off because they have seized into the seat base it is very unlikely that you will be able to achieve your aim using any sort of flame heating and soldering definitely will not work. I would recommend trying the nut and MIG welder process first. If that doesn't work it will be a good opportunity to practice your "drilling out" skills. Looks as though you need a friend with a pickup truck MIG welder. Good luck. M On Tue, Dec 1, 2020 at 9:53 AM Simon Lachlan via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I should like to buy some form of blow torch, something hot. I?m looking > for something hotter than my regular plumbing item and much cheaper and > more portable than the big set-ups?with which I?m barely acquainted?.MIG, > TIG(?) and oxy-acetylene rigs with vast bottles on a trolley. > > I?m after something with which to heat up stuck bolts, maybe do a bit of > light brazing or heavy soldering. Something portable?..pick it up, click, > use it, switch off & move on. > > I?ve seen one set-up which has two small bottles, one of oxygen the other > of ?High power gas mixture AT 3000?. This latter bottle apparently being a > 65% butane & 25% propylene mix. > > As you may have gathered, I know nothing of these matters? > > As a sample of what I?m looking for, the first task will require a rapid > heat to solder or braze nuts onto broken off bolts. Rapid because the bolts > are in the underside of the (previous) seat for my ride-on mower. These > bolts are surrounded by the foam rubber of which the seat is largely built. > Were I able to extract them without wrecking the seat, I could probably > flog the seat on eBay for +/-?75.00 which would largely recoup the cost of > a torch?? (Parts and labour on ride-ons are ridiculous over here. (UK). For > example, I used to take my wife?s Porsche 944S2 to a specialist Porsche > garage. Not a Main Dealer. His hourly rate was less than that of the local > garden machinery thieves). As ever, I digress. > > So, what should I be looking at? I see MAPP torches, but they don?t appear > to be much better than my plumbing torch?.? Or are they? > > Thanks, > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 08:43:26 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 10:43:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] HD4/6 "support set" needed Message-ID: Page 9 of the Moss catalogue shows a two-piece "support set" (p/n 376-098) which consists of two arms going between the intake manifold and the carb dashpots, both for the standard HD4's or M-kit HD6's. I am in need of one of these arms (1/2 of the set) and Moss is back-ordered. If anyone is willing and able to sell either one arm or the pair please reply or contact me off-list at: michael.oritt at gmail.com/305-793-9467. TIA--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Dec 1 08:47:55 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 15:47:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> <1072789251.2997064.1606781350144@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1342738690.2856322.1606837676006@mail.yahoo.com> This familiar subject is a welcome reminder that I am not alone is this world.? Somedays I feel like I spend most of my time searching for something I had just the day before. I love the subtly obvious & humorous? "Everything will always be found at the last place you look".?On a related subject, I have heard it suggested that this "hobby" should be described as "parts collecting" &/or "to do list" making.?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Oritt via Healeys To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Sent: Tue, Dec 1, 2020 8:43 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lost Keys Everything will always be found at the last place you look.? I recently spent ten days searching for a lost wallet.? I found it--where else--in the shoes I was wearing the day it went missing. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 7:09 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote: ? Yes they do Rick.? Keys are mainly for switch locks.? There is a key for the back door of the cab.? You close and lock the front door from the inside and leave by the back door.? The caboose has door keys.? Even though the major railroads are not maintaining the caboose that are left, they use them for a shoving platform for a crew member to stand on and report to the engineer that is backing up a train when to stop or how fast to go.? I also have switch keys for Amtrak locks, UP locks and keys from the San Diego sub.? As a railroaded you have all kinds of keys.Mike M (former switchman, conductor and engineer on BNSF Railway) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 10:12:57 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2020 09:12:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... In-Reply-To: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <8qtcsf1po34p7or9r122gpqd974j1450o8@4ax.com> As Michael said, your best bet for the task you describe is a MIG welder. A gas torch will heat up a much larger area than you want, and it will take some time for the target piece to reach a temperature that is needed (meanwhile igniting surrounding combustibles). For an expert weldor, a TIG welder can produce miracles. But for the rest of us a MIG machine can do a lot. A gas MIG would be best but even a cheaper MIG that used flux core wire might get the jobs done. It would be cheaper. -Roland who knows that a grinder is an amateur weldor's best friend On Tue, 1 Dec 2020 14:52:47 -0000, you wrote: >I should like to buy some form of blow torch, something hot. I?m looking for >something hotter than my regular plumbing item and much cheaper and more >portable than the big set-ups with which I?m barely acquainted .MIG, TIG(?) >and oxy-acetylene rigs with vast bottles on a trolley. > >I?m after something with which to heat up stuck bolts, maybe do a bit of >light brazing or heavy soldering. Something portable ..pick it up, click, >use it, switch off & move on. > >I?ve seen one set-up which has two small bottles, one of oxygen the other of >?High power gas mixture AT 3000?. This latter bottle apparently being a 65% >butane & 25% propylene mix. > >As you may have gathered, I know nothing of these matters > >As a sample of what I?m looking for, the first task will require a rapid >heat to solder or braze nuts onto broken off bolts. Rapid because the bolts >are in the underside of the (previous) seat for my ride-on mower. These >bolts are surrounded by the foam rubber of which the seat is largely built. >Were I able to extract them without wrecking the seat, I could probably flog >the seat on eBay for +/-?75.00 which would largely recoup the cost of a >torch?? (Parts and labour on ride-ons are ridiculous over here. (UK). For >example, I used to take my wife?s Porsche 944S2 to a specialist Porsche >garage. Not a Main Dealer. His hourly rate was less than that of the local >garden machinery thieves). As ever, I digress. > >So, what should I be looking at? I see MAPP torches, but they don?t appear >to be much better than my plumbing torch .? Or are they? > >Thanks, > >Simon -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 10:35:50 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 09:35:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] HD4/6 "support set" needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B86BF5F4E364D79855FC88C6207CE4B@DavidNockHP> Mike the 100 M and the 100/4 take different brackets, I have both in stock Which carbs do you need the brackets for. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Oritt Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 2020 7:43 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] HD4/6 "support set" needed Page 9 of the Moss catalogue shows a two-piece "support set" (p/n 376-098) which consists of two arms going between the intake manifold and the carb dashpots, both for the standard HD4's or M-kit HD6's. I am in need of one of these arms (1/2 of the set) and Moss is back-ordered. If anyone is willing and able to sell either one arm or the pair please reply or contact me off-list at: michael.oritt at gmail.com/305-793-9467. TIA--Michael Oritt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pollpete at ix.netcom.com Tue Dec 1 11:59:54 2020 From: pollpete at ix.netcom.com (P.M. Pollock) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 10:59:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: <1342738690.2856322.1606837676006@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> <1072789251.2997064.1606781350144@mail.yahoo.com> <1342738690.2856322.1606837676006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9e54efdd-41f3-c85a-a624-dcd9af972bdb@ix.netcom.com> See attached. Pete Pollock BJ7 N. CA On 12/1/2020 7:47 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > This familiar subject is a welcome reminder that I am not alone is this > world.? Somedays I feel like I spend most of my time searching for something I > had just the day before. I love the subtly obvious & humorous "Everything will > always be found at the last place you look". > On a related subject, I have heard it suggested that this "hobby" should be > described as "parts collecting" &/or "to do list" making. > Gary Hodson > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Oritt via Healeys > To: Michael MacLean > Cc: Healeys > Sent: Tue, Dec 1, 2020 8:43 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lost Keys > > Everything will always be found at the last place you look.? I recently spent > ten days searching for a lost wallet.? I found it--where else--in the shoes I > was wearing the day it went missing. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 7:09 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys > > wrote: > > ? Yes they do Rick.? Keys are mainly for switch locks.? There is a key for > the back door of the cab.? You close and lock the front door from the > inside and leave by the back door.? The caboose has door keys.? Even > though the major railroads are not maintaining the caboose that are left, > they use them for a shoving platform for a crew member to stand on and > report to the engineer that is backing up a train when to stop or how fast > to go.? I also have switch keys for Amtrak locks, UP locks and keys from > the San Diego sub.? As a railroaded you have all kinds of keys. > Mike M (former switchman, conductor and engineer on BNSF Railway) > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pollpete at ix.netcom.com > -- IMPORTANT - PLEASE NOTE: This communication constitutes an electronic communication within the meaning of the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 USC 2510. Its disclosure is strictly limited to the recipient intended by the sender of this message. This communication may contain confidential and privileged material for the sole use of the intended recipient and receipt by anyone other than the intended recipient does not constitute a loss of the confidential or privileged nature of the communication. Any review or distribution by others is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient please contact the sender by return electronic mail and delete all copies of this communication. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: LookingForMyCarKeys.wmv Type: video/x-ms-wmv Size: 2551552 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bgdrab at redzone.ca Tue Dec 1 13:07:59 2020 From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 20:07:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working on cars. Brian Drab AHOABC From: Leonard Berkowitz Sent: November 30, 2020 1:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much of a problem. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wrench (2).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 328932 bytes Desc: wrench (2).jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wrench (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 309166 bytes Desc: wrench (1).jpg URL: From warthodson at aol.com Tue Dec 1 13:23:50 2020 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 20:23:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1204450937.2973038.1606854230577@mail.yahoo.com> Beautiful wrench remodeling job!Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Brian Drab via Healeys To: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Dec 1, 2020 2:07 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal #yiv5028915257 #yiv5028915257 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv5028915257 #yiv5028915257 p.yiv5028915257MsoNormal, #yiv5028915257 li.yiv5028915257MsoNormal, #yiv5028915257 div.yiv5028915257MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv5028915257 span.yiv5028915257EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv5028915257 .yiv5028915257MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv5028915257 div.yiv5028915257WordSection1 {}#yiv5028915257 I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened.? A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working on cars. Brian Drab AHOABC ? From: Leonard Berkowitz Sent: November 30, 2020 1:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal ? It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear.? Can I remove the rear carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access the lower hold down bolts.? If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much of a problem. ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Dec 1 13:51:46 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2020 20:51:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal Message-ID: <483455f5496a55beba0a7b425505b05b314b6a58@webmail> Recommend you remove both carbs as a unit, and put new seals in both-rebuilding one will do no good, and if you want to get rid of leaks you should address each one. Its not a bad job on the bench-mostly cleanup...then reinstall as a unit-slips right back into position with inlet manifold. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Richard Kahn via Healeys" To: "Leonard Berkowitz", "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: Sent: Monday November 30 2020 7:49:02PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal I'm not sure you can remove only one carb. With the linkage and the length of the mounting studs you could bend or break something. Let us know if you are successful. And how did you get away with not doing anything for 30 years. You must have had it stored for 29 years. ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Leonard Berkowitz SENT: Monday, November 30, 2020 1:39 PM TO: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: [Healeys] Carb removal It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much of a problem. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 13:56:19 2020 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 15:56:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The locomotives I trained on had no keys. Maybe there has been a rash of losses... On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 5:45 PM HealeyRick via Healeys wrote: > Do locomotives have keys? Did you ever lose your train keys? Inquiring > minds! > > Happy Holidays, Mike. > > Rick Neville > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_6571371651533650882_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Lost Keys have been found! They were on a key rack in my bedroom where >> all the important keys reside such as the padlocks for the solar panel >> inverters, sliding glass door locks and old railroad keys. I looked at >> that rack at least three times looking for the BN2 Keys and did not see >> them hiding behind a ring of railroad keys. I was in the middle of going >> through all the Home Depot plastic storage bins of parts looking in every >> bag or box in these containers. On a positive note I did find parts that >> are needed on stuff I am presently working on. On the other side of the >> coin I found multiples like two extra sets of copper tubing for the float >> bowl to the cold air box overflow. Now parts are buried again for the next >> treasure hunt. I really have to get more organized. >> Mike MacLean >> P.S. I never realized how many fasteners I really have. >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Dec 1 14:39:19 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 21:39:19 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002f01d6c82a$6db9c0c0$492d4240$@alexarevel.plus.com> My wife's hands are much smaller than mine and she seems to have more hinges in her wrists. She's a southpaw too which can help. She's not patient enough to do the whole job, but she'll usually get the nuts started. Useful. Can take some coaxing.. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Brian Drab via Healeys Sent: 01 December 2020 20:08 To: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working on cars. Brian Drab AHOABC From: Leonard Berkowitz > Sent: November 30, 2020 1:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much of a problem. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Dec 1 15:42:16 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2020 22:42:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Carb hardware removal Message-ID: <9aba516a6a27cc729c65b556f50a124ed1dd4cac@webmail> Small hands are good-I don't have them, but I use a combination of things to get the nuts back on the studs. Stubby wrenches are a plus, but plan on some time at each stud. Here is a photo of how I treat the inner air cleaner nut and washer on the BJ8 rear carb to r & r it without it falling into the open frame rail. Using a screwdriver and a magnet you can safely get it started, then roll it on with the tip of the screwdriver. Another "trick" I sometimes use is a piece of masking tape-rolled sticky side out attached to the end of a ice cream stick with the nut & lockwasher stuck to it. You can get the nut started then figure how to get it tightened. These cars were engineered to be assembled, someway, at the factory and never was there any consideration as to field maintainance. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys" To: Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Tuesday December 1 2020 1:40:22PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal My wife?s hands are much smaller than mine and she seems to have more hinges in her wrists. She?s a southpaw too which can help. She?s not patient enough to do the whole job, but she?ll usually get the nuts started. Useful. Can take some coaxing?? Simon FROM: Healeys ON BEHALF OF Brian Drab via Healeys SENT: 01 December 2020 20:08 TO: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working on cars. Brian Drab AHOABC FROM: Leonard Berkowitz SENT: November 30, 2020 1:40 PM TO: healeys at autox.team.net [2] SUBJECT: [Healeys] Carb removal It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much of a problem. Thanks Links: ------ [1] mailto:DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com [2] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: nut removal C.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 207333 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Dec 1 15:47:50 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 22:47:50 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001d6c834$0067de30$01379a90$@alexarevel.plus.com> My first locomotive had a key. From: Healeys On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: 01 December 2020 20:56 To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lost Keys The locomotives I trained on had no keys. Maybe there has been a rash of losses... On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 5:45 PM HealeyRick via Healeys > wrote: Do locomotives have keys? Did you ever lose your train keys? Inquiring minds! Happy Holidays, Mike. Rick Neville Virus-free. www.avast.com On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys > wrote: Lost Keys have been found! They were on a key rack in my bedroom where all the important keys reside such as the padlocks for the solar panel inverters, sliding glass door locks and old railroad keys. I looked at that rack at least three times looking for the BN2 Keys and did not see them hiding behind a ring of railroad keys. I was in the middle of going through all the Home Depot plastic storage bins of parts looking in every bag or box in these containers. On a positive note I did find parts that are needed on stuff I am presently working on. On the other side of the coin I found multiples like two extra sets of copper tubing for the float bowl to the cold air box overflow. Now parts are buried again for the next treasure hunt. I really have to get more organized. Mike MacLean P.S. I never realized how many fasteners I really have. Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 55114 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 15:51:15 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 14:51:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb hardware removal In-Reply-To: <9aba516a6a27cc729c65b556f50a124ed1dd4cac@webmail> References: <9aba516a6a27cc729c65b556f50a124ed1dd4cac@webmail> Message-ID: My daughter-in-law is tiny and she helped the last time I Installed my carbs. Plus she's great to and with my Son. A keeper. Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Dec 1, 2020 at 2:45 PM Henry G Leach via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Small hands are good-I don't have them, but I use a combination of things > to get the nuts back on the studs. Stubby wrenches are a plus, but plan on > some time at each stud. Here is a photo of how I treat the inner air > cleaner nut and washer on the BJ8 rear carb to r & r it without it falling > into the open frame rail. Using a screwdriver and a magnet you can safely > get it started, then roll it on with the tip of the screwdriver. Another > "trick" I sometimes use is a piece of masking tape-rolled sticky side out > attached to the end of a ice cream stick with the nut & lockwasher stuck to > it. You can get the nut started then figure how to get it tightened. These > cars were engineered to be assembled, someway, at the factory and never was > there any consideration as to field maintainance. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys" > To: > Cc: "Healeys" > Sent: Tuesday December 1 2020 1:40:22PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal > > My wife?s hands are much smaller than mine and she seems to have more > hinges in her wrists. She?s a southpaw too which can help. She?s not > patient enough to do the whole job, but she?ll usually get the nuts > started. Useful. Can take some coaxing?? > > Simon > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Brian > Drab via Healeys > *Sent:* 01 December 2020 20:08 > *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Carb removal > > > > I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because > of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a > perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. > > A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it > only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! > > But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back > on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour > each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place > and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. > > Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working > on cars. > > Brian Drab > > AHOABC > > > > *From:* Leonard Berkowitz > *Sent:* November 30, 2020 1:40 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Carb removal > > > > It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major > on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb > independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access > the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and > installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much > of a problem. > > > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 16:10:28 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 18:10:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: <000001d6c834$0067de30$01379a90$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d6c834$0067de30$01379a90$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Hornby? On Tue., Dec. 1, 2020, 5:55 p.m. Simon Lachlan via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > My first locomotive had a key. > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Al Fuller > *Sent:* 01 December 2020 20:56 > *To:* HealeyRick > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Lost Keys > > > > The locomotives I trained on had no keys. Maybe there has been a rash of > losses... > > > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 5:45 PM HealeyRick via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Do locomotives have keys? Did you ever lose your train keys? Inquiring > minds! > > > > Happy Holidays, Mike. > > > > Rick Neville > > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > > On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > Lost Keys have been found! They were on a key rack in my bedroom where > all the important keys reside such as the padlocks for the solar panel > inverters, sliding glass door locks and old railroad keys. I looked at > that rack at least three times looking for the BN2 Keys and did not see > them hiding behind a ring of railroad keys. I was in the middle of going > through all the Home Depot plastic storage bins of parts looking in every > bag or box in these containers. On a positive note I did find parts that > are needed on stuff I am presently working on. On the other side of the > coin I found multiples like two extra sets of copper tubing for the float > bowl to the cold air box overflow. Now parts are buried again for the next > treasure hunt. I really have to get more organized. > > Mike MacLean > > P.S. I never realized how many fasteners I really have. > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 55114 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 55114 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 16:19:56 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 15:19:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: <483455f5496a55beba0a7b425505b05b314b6a58@webmail> References: <483455f5496a55beba0a7b425505b05b314b6a58@webmail> Message-ID: what they said You will thank us later if you remove both carbs Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Dec 1, 2020 at 12:54 PM Henry G Leach via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Recommend you remove both carbs as a unit, and put new seals in > both-rebuilding one will do no good, and if you want to get rid of leaks > you should address each one. Its not a bad job on the bench-mostly > cleanup...then reinstall as a unit-slips right back into position with > inlet manifold. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Richard Kahn via Healeys" > To: "Leonard Berkowitz", "healeys at autox.team.net" > Cc: > Sent: Monday November 30 2020 7:49:02PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal > > I'm not sure you can remove only one carb. With the linkage and the length > of the mounting studs you could bend or break something. Let us know if you > are successful. And how did you get away with not doing anything for 30 > years. You must have had it stored for 29 years. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Leonard > Berkowitz > *Sent:* Monday, November 30, 2020 1:39 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Carb removal > > It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major > on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb > independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access > the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and > installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much > of a problem. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fredwescoe at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 16:26:02 2020 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 18:26:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: <002f01d6c82a$6db9c0c0$492d4240$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <002f01d6c82a$6db9c0c0$492d4240$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: Listers, On my BJ8, I use a "stubby" box wrench to remove the rear carb nuts, reaching with my left hand under the front carb. I then use a long magnet to hold the 7 o'clock nut in place at the stud. The magnet reaches down from above the 11 o'clock nut. I am able to get the nut started with my left hand reaching under the front carb, back to the 7 o'clock nut, tightening it with the stubby wrench. It works for me. Fred 66 BJ8 On Tue, Dec 1, 2020 at 4:40 PM Simon Lachlan via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > My wife?s hands are much smaller than mine and she seems to have more > hinges in her wrists. She?s a southpaw too which can help. She?s not > patient enough to do the whole job, but she?ll usually get the nuts > started. Useful. Can take some coaxing?? > > Simon > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Brian > Drab via Healeys > *Sent:* 01 December 2020 20:08 > *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Carb removal > > > > I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because > of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a > perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. > > A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it > only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! > > But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back > on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour > each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place > and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. > > Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working > on cars. > > Brian Drab > > AHOABC > > > > *From:* Leonard Berkowitz > *Sent:* November 30, 2020 1:40 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Carb removal > > > > It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major > on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb > independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access > the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and > installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much > of a problem. > > > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 1 17:42:45 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 19:42:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Congratulations on finding them. Several years back I misplaced both keys to my 2007 Tundra and had to spend $700.00 (after first having the truck flat-bedded into the dealership) for the system to be reset, or something like that. It was an outrageous expense but numerous independent locksmiths in the area verified that the manufacturers have somehow prevented them from doing this job. Needless to say, one of the original keys turned up about a month later.... Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 5:12 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Lost Keys have been found! They were on a key rack in my bedroom where > all the important keys reside such as the padlocks for the solar panel > inverters, sliding glass door locks and old railroad keys. I looked at > that rack at least three times looking for the BN2 Keys and did not see > them hiding behind a ring of railroad keys. I was in the middle of going > through all the Home Depot plastic storage bins of parts looking in every > bag or box in these containers. On a positive note I did find parts that > are needed on stuff I am presently working on. On the other side of the > coin I found multiples like two extra sets of copper tubing for the float > bowl to the cold air box overflow. Now parts are buried again for the next > treasure hunt. I really have to get more organized. > Mike MacLean > P.S. I never realized how many fasteners I really have. > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Dec 1 18:24:53 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 1 Dec 2020 20:24:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] All I want for Christmas Message-ID: https://hymanltd.com/vehicles/6805-1955-austin-healey-100s Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Dec 1 18:48:31 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 01:48:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100S For Sale References: <2139193958.3448371.1606873711261.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2139193958.3448371.1606873711261@mail.yahoo.com> Hyman Ltd is selling an unrestored 100S.? You have to call for the price.? Awww, who needs a retirement fund when a 100S is for sale!Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Dec 1 18:55:19 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 01:55:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Lost Keys In-Reply-To: <000001d6c834$0067de30$01379a90$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1285265806.2941160.1606773856893@mail.yahoo.com> <000001d6c834$0067de30$01379a90$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <1032782322.3421428.1606874119627@mail.yahoo.com> My first train was a Lionel set my parents bought me for Christmas from Sears in 1958.? I still have it and it goes around the Christmas tree every year to this day.? You can still buy the smoke pills to put in the smokestack on Ebay.? Still puffs away and the headlight still works.? They don't make toys like they used to.Mike MacLean On Tuesday, December 1, 2020, 2:55:06 PM PST, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote: #yiv4798298185 -- filtered {}#yiv4798298185 filtered {}#yiv4798298185 p.yiv4798298185MsoNormal, #yiv4798298185 li.yiv4798298185MsoNormal, #yiv4798298185 div.yiv4798298185MsoNormal {margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4798298185 a:link, #yiv4798298185 span.yiv4798298185MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4798298185 span.yiv4798298185EmailStyle19 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4798298185 .yiv4798298185MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4798298185 filtered {}#yiv4798298185 div.yiv4798298185WordSection1 {}#yiv4798298185 My first locomotive had a key. ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: 01 December 2020 20:56 To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lost Keys ? The locomotives I trained on had no keys. Maybe there has been a rash of losses... ? On Mon, Nov 30, 2020, 5:45 PM HealeyRick via Healeys wrote: Do locomotives have keys?? Did you ever lose your train keys?? Inquiring minds! ? Happy Holidays, Mike. ? Rick Neville ? | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | ? On Mon, Nov 30, 2020 at 5:13 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys wrote: Lost Keys have been found!? They were on a key rack in my bedroom where all the important keys reside such as the padlocks for the solar panel inverters, sliding glass door locks and old railroad keys.? I looked at that rack at least three times looking for the BN2 Keys and did not see them hiding behind a ring of railroad keys.? I was in the middle of going through all the Home Depot plastic storage bins of parts looking in every bag or box in these containers.? On a positive note I did find parts that are needed on stuff I am presently working on.? On the other side of the coin I found multiples like two extra sets of copper tubing for the float bowl to the cold air box overflow.? Now parts are buried again for the next treasure hunt.? I really have to get more organized. Mike MacLean P.S. I never realized how many fasteners I really have. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 55114 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Dec 1 19:22:11 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:22:11 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000201d6c851$f291dcc0$d7b59640$@xtra.co.nz> Brian, Bill Bolton made me this one nearly 40 years ago. I use it in a surprising number of difficult - read: ' impossible' - spaces with generally considerable success. Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Brian Drab Sent: Wednesday, 2 December 2020 9:08 a.m. To: Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carb removal I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working on cars. Brian Drab AHOABC From: Leonard Berkowitz > Sent: November 30, 2020 1:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much of a problem. Thanks -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 71279 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Dec 1 23:25:52 2020 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2020 22:25:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?carb_removal?= Message-ID: <20201202062552.30049.qmail@server278.com> years ago i bought a set of "C" wrenches(not sure of proper name) aat harbor freight for about 3 dollars. have never used but the half inch one. i can reach in from the bottom to loosen the nuts, then spin them off with my fingers or a screwdriver. i always remove both at one time on a BJ8, although i have removed only one on earlier models. you still have to loosen the other carb a bit to remove the throttle connector. better to remove both, seems to save time. From ynotink at msn.com Wed Dec 2 00:09:51 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 07:09:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... In-Reply-To: <8qtcsf1po34p7or9r122gpqd974j1450o8@4ax.com> References: <000001d6c7f1$a33518a0$e99f49e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>, <8qtcsf1po34p7or9r122gpqd974j1450o8@4ax.com> Message-ID: Don?t know if it applies in this case, but sometimes a broken fastener is jammed against the end of a tapped hole. In that case just drilling through the fastener can break it loose. Using a left hand drill bit in this case will sometimes cause the stub to catch the bit and spin out with no damage to the hole. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, December 1, 2020 5:12 PM To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas torch. No Healey.... As Michael said, your best bet for the task you describe is a MIG welder. A gas torch will heat up a much larger area than you want, and it will take some time for the target piece to reach a temperature that is needed (meanwhile igniting surrounding combustibles). For an expert weldor, a TIG welder can produce miracles. But for the rest of us a MIG machine can do a lot. A gas MIG would be best but even a cheaper MIG that used flux core wire might get the jobs done. It would be cheaper. -Roland who knows that a grinder is an amateur weldor's best friend On Tue, 1 Dec 2020 14:52:47 -0000, you wrote: >I should like to buy some form of blow torch, something hot. I?m looking for >something hotter than my regular plumbing item and much cheaper and more >portable than the big set-ups?with which I?m barely acquainted?.MIG, TIG(?) >and oxy-acetylene rigs with vast bottles on a trolley. > >I?m after something with which to heat up stuck bolts, maybe do a bit of >light brazing or heavy soldering. Something portable?..pick it up, click, >use it, switch off & move on. > >I?ve seen one set-up which has two small bottles, one of oxygen the other of >?High power gas mixture AT 3000?. This latter bottle apparently being a 65% >butane & 25% propylene mix. > >As you may have gathered, I know nothing of these matters? > >As a sample of what I?m looking for, the first task will require a rapid >heat to solder or braze nuts onto broken off bolts. Rapid because the bolts >are in the underside of the (previous) seat for my ride-on mower. These >bolts are surrounded by the foam rubber of which the seat is largely built. >Were I able to extract them without wrecking the seat, I could probably flog >the seat on eBay for +/-?75.00 which would largely recoup the cost of a >torch?? (Parts and labour on ride-ons are ridiculous over here. (UK). For >example, I used to take my wife?s Porsche 944S2 to a specialist Porsche >garage. Not a Main Dealer. His hourly rate was less than that of the local >garden machinery thieves). As ever, I digress. > >So, what should I be looking at? I see MAPP torches, but they don?t appear >to be much better than my plumbing torch?.? Or are they? > >Thanks, > >Simon -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Dec 2 00:17:41 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:17:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] carb removal In-Reply-To: <20201202062552.30049.qmail@server278.com> References: <20201202062552.30049.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Those are called half moon wrenches. On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 2:26 PM healeymanjim via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > years ago i bought a set of "C" wrenches(not sure of proper name) aat > harbor freight for about 3 dollars. have never used > but the half inch one. i can reach in from the bottom to loosen the nuts, > then spin them off with my fingers or a > screwdriver. i always remove both at one time on a BJ8, although i have > removed only one on earlier models. you still > have to loosen the other carb a bit to remove the throttle connector. > better to remove both, seems to save time. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Dec 2 00:18:32 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:18:32 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Always remove the pair, easiest way to do it. It doesn't take too long to get all the nuts off. Good Luck! On Tue, Dec 1, 2020 at 5:40 AM Leonard Berkowitz wrote: > It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major > on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb > independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access > the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and > installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much > of a problem. > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Dec 2 00:21:02 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:21:02 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I can get in there with a little stubby box end wrench - craftsman used to make a really nice version with a thin walled box end. Trick is not to tighten them too much (20ft lbs is enough), as they will not come off because the throttle body is soft metal that holds the nuts in place. On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 4:16 AM Brian Drab via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which because > of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to actually modify a > perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts loosened. > > A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it > only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! > > But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts back > on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took one hour > each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold the nut in place > and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to get it started. > > Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of working > on cars. > > Brian Drab > > AHOABC > > > > *From:* Leonard Berkowitz > *Sent:* November 30, 2020 1:40 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Carb removal > > > > It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything major > on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear carb > independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool to access > the lower hold down bolts. If I remember correctly, I may have rebuilt and > installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, so access was not much > of a problem. > > > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Dec 2 00:25:19 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:25:19 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: <000201d6c851$f291dcc0$d7b59640$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000201d6c851$f291dcc0$d7b59640$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: Bill Bolton is a great guy. On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 10:30 AM Mark Donaldson via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Brian, > > > > Bill Bolton made me this one nearly 40 years ago. I use it in a > surprising number of difficult ? read: ? impossible? ? spaces with > generally considerable success. > > > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Dec 2 00:43:39 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:43:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ruddspeed In-Reply-To: <18947155ABF943AF8390E0C2ED683712@MarkPC> References: <000201d42666$0d641710$282c4530$@alexarevel.plus.com> <20180729005335.5DC612588661@autox.team.net> <001801d4272b$94639c20$bd2ad460$@ca> <18947155ABF943AF8390E0C2ED683712@MarkPC> Message-ID: Hi Mark - I was looking at this old post, did Bill have a magneto on his healey? Cheers, Alan On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 8:10 AM Mark Donaldson wrote: > Bob, Perry and Simon, > > Back in the early eighties when Bill Bolton owned number 171 I took photos > of it at his Oregon home. > > It definitely ran HD6s back then, as the photo below clearly shows. > > I've seen it in recent years under different ownership. I was saddened at > what has been done to it. > > Some of its history had been stripped away. > > > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > > > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Auto Farm [mailto:autofarm at wightman.ca] > *Sent:* Sunday, 29 July 2018 11:02 p.m. > *To:* 'Perry'; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed > > > > Perry, the L/H clearer picture certainly shows HD8?s, but the other > picture looks more like HD6?s. The neck on the bell looks longer and the > screw fasteners have different spacing. The fuel supply is different also, > not that it would matter. > > Cheers?.Bob > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of * > Perry > *Sent:* July-28-18 8:07 PM > *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ruddspeed > > > > Simon > > Not sure about the original specs on the Rudd Speed manifolds as I can not > find an original advertisement or catalog. > > But notice the car below is using HD8 carbs. Maybe the HD6 manifolds were > hogged out to fit the HD8?s. > > This post will probably not make it to the Healey list as I am having > trouble posting there. > > Perry > > [image: scan0579] > notice > the car below is using HD8 carbs. > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent: *Saturday, July 28, 2018 8:00 AM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] Ruddspeed > > > > Hi, > > Did Rudd do a 2?set of intake manifolds or were there only ever 1.75??? > May be a set near me? > > Simon > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196463 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 60469 bytes Desc: not available URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Dec 2 07:30:41 2020 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 07:30:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carb removal In-Reply-To: <000201d6c851$f291dcc0$d7b59640$@xtra.co.nz> References: <000201d6c851$f291dcc0$d7b59640$@xtra.co.nz> Message-ID: <3e026d02-00fa-ed29-67ce-384ea26beb93@porterscustom.com> Better get in on this thread... here's one just made last week for MGA front bumpers... PITA On 12/1/2020 7:22 PM, Mark Donaldson via Healeys wrote: > > Brian, > > Bill Bolton made me this one nearly 40 years ago.? I use it in a > surprising number of difficult ? read: ? impossible? ? spaces with > generally considerable success. > > Mark > > Ardmore, NZ > > *From:*Brian Drab > *Sent:* Wednesday, 2 December 2020 9:08 a.m. > *To:* Leonard Berkowitz ; healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Carb removal > > I too had the problem of removing my carbs, but on a BJ8 - which > because of the carb size I think was probably harder. I had to > actually modify a perfectly good wrench to get the bottom inside nuts > loosened. > > A lot of heat and experimenting before I got it right and even then it > only gave me enough purchase to probably get 1/16 of a turn of the nut! > > But loosening the nuts paled in comparison to getting those same nuts > back on. Getting each nut actually located on the stud probably took > one hour each and it involved using grease on my finger tip to hold > the nut in place and try to turn it that first segment of a turn to > get it started. > > Probably one of the worst jobs I have encountered in my years of > working on cars. > > Brian Drab > > AHOABC > > *From:*Leonard Berkowitz > > *Sent:* November 30, 2020 1:40 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Carb removal > > It has been thirty years since the last time I needed to do anything > major on my BJ7 so my memory is not quite clear. Can I remove the rear > carb independently from the front carb? I have already designed a tool > to access the lower hold down bolts.? If I remember correctly, I may > have rebuilt and installed the carburetors when I rebuilt the engine, > so access was not much of a problem. > > Thanks > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 71279 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7897.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1428021 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Wed Dec 2 11:03:59 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2020 18:03:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] carb removal wrench Message-ID: <85ddb78e4da10a1b33e8ab7178fbda7cea0192ca@webmail> They are also called "crow's foot" wrenches and can attach to the front or side opening and used on a socket or extension. Like the bent wrench Bill made but is it a sacrelige to mess up a Proto? Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Alan Seigrist via Healeys" To: "healeymanjim" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Tuesday December 1 2020 11:31:54PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] carb removal Those are called half moon wrenches. On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 2:26 PM healeymanjim via Healeys wrote: years ago i bought a set of "C" wrenches(not sure of proper name) aat harbor freight for about 3 dollars. have never used but the half inch one. i can reach in from the bottom to loosen the nuts, then spin them off with my fingers or a screwdriver. i always remove both at one time on a BJ8, although i have removed only one on earlier models. you still have to loosen the other carb a bit to remove the throttle connector. better to remove both, seems to save time. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] [6]http://autox.team.net/archive [7] Healeys at autox.team.net [8] [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] Unsubscribe/Manage: [11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com [12] Links: ------ [1] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://autox.team.net/archive [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 2 11:33:01 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 13:33:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100S for sale References: Message-ID: Asking $1.5 million US Sent from my iPhone From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Dec 2 12:11:52 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 19:11:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100S for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <734339121.3718411.1606936312020@mail.yahoo.com> Yikes! Mike M On Wednesday, December 2, 2020, 10:33:32 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: Asking $1.5 million US Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 2 12:44:17 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 14:44:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 References: <8407C170-9866-4405-A17F-46A5771B5480.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <8407C170-9866-4405-A17F-46A5771B5480@aol.com> Listers Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. Anyone have a lead? Thanks Perry Sent from my iPhone From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 2 13:02:12 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 15:02:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 References: <8407C170-9866-4405-A17F-46A5771B5480@aol.com> Message-ID: <8D9278D7-839D-4B61-BE50-FC5812EA36FA@aol.com> Sorry if this shows up twice on the list. Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Perry Small > Date: December 2, 2020 at 2:45:06 PM EST > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 > > ?Listers > Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. Anyone have a lead? > Thanks > Perry > > Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Wed Dec 2 13:46:48 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Wed, 02 Dec 2020 20:46:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 Message-ID: <973761ac4453bda3c0d054d8073be608a3c33a71@webmail> A-H Spares has these two gaskets/dust excluders:PART NO:LTG197PRODUCT NAME:DUST EXCLUDER-rubberADDITIONAL INFORMATION:DESCRIPTION: OE PART NUMBER:3H2962 PART NO:LTG184PRODUCT NAME:GASKET-bowl to body(3adj.type)ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:DESCRIPTION:Ours are the correct size and won't need trimming to fit. OE PART NUMBER:3H1031APPLICATION:BN1-BJ8 Don't know how well the fit the 100 but there is not much NOS out there. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Perry Small via Healeys" To: "" Cc: Sent: Wednesday December 2 2020 11:45:21AM Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 Listers Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. Anyone have a lead? Thanks Perry Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1] Unsubscribe/Manage: Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation __DOLLAR_SYMBOL__12.75 Archive: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Dec 2 14:05:27 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 16:05:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 In-Reply-To: <8407C170-9866-4405-A17F-46A5771B5480@aol.com> References: <8407C170-9866-4405-A17F-46A5771B5480.ref@aol.com> <8407C170-9866-4405-A17F-46A5771B5480@aol.com> Message-ID: <081ee237-9d8b-44d5-d09a-5d45fd70c438@earthlink.net> Perry, Michael Grant has picked up Roger's parts business.? His email address is grant67hbj8brg at gmail.com.? The price list I have showed $80 for the pair. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/2/20 2:44 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Listers > Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. Anyone have a lead? > Thanks > Perry > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Dec 2 14:55:36 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 13:55:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 In-Reply-To: <081ee237-9d8b-44d5-d09a-5d45fd70c438@earthlink.net> References: <081ee237-9d8b-44d5-d09a-5d45fd70c438@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <19DE5F96-4E99-4F1D-8EBB-37C7EDF81519@comcast.net> Same Michael Grant that used to be tech support for Moss? > On Dec 2, 2020, at 1:19 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > > ?Perry, > > Michael Grant has picked up Roger's parts business. His email address is grant67hbj8brg at gmail.com. The price list I have showed $80 for the pair. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 12/2/20 2:44 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: >> Listers >> Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. Anyone have a lead? >> Thanks >> Perry >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Dec 2 15:08:09 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 17:08:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 In-Reply-To: <19DE5F96-4E99-4F1D-8EBB-37C7EDF81519@comcast.net> References: <081ee237-9d8b-44d5-d09a-5d45fd70c438@earthlink.net> <19DE5F96-4E99-4F1D-8EBB-37C7EDF81519@comcast.net> Message-ID: <89818cb8-dd03-3a69-5b42-47b009b55fdb@earthlink.net> Yes. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/2/20 4:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Same Michael Grant that used to be tech support for Moss? > >> On Dec 2, 2020, at 1:19 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >> >> ?Perry, >> >> Michael Grant has picked up Roger's parts business. His email address is grant67hbj8brg at gmail.com. The price list I have showed $80 for the pair. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >>> On 12/2/20 2:44 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: >>> Listers >>> Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. Anyone have a lead? >>> Thanks >>> Perry >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Dec 2 15:30:50 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 23:30:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight bucket to body gasket for 1955 100 In-Reply-To: <89818cb8-dd03-3a69-5b42-47b009b55fdb@earthlink.net> References: <081ee237-9d8b-44d5-d09a-5d45fd70c438@earthlink.net> <19DE5F96-4E99-4F1D-8EBB-37C7EDF81519@comcast.net> <89818cb8-dd03-3a69-5b42-47b009b55fdb@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <2e3a192a-d3d6-6cc4-10e0-3f68432e1e99@chello.nl> Aren't these gaskets the same for any 7" head light bucket for most British cars (Triumph, Mini, MG, Jaguar, Reliant, Land/Range Rover etc. etc.) of the era? I would imagine they are plenty available. A Land Rover specialist (not dealer) or an Auto jumble would probably be the cheapest, in Europe anyway. I have quite a few lying about new but shipping would cause a financial crisis. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-12-2020 om 23:08 schreef Bob Haskell: > Yes. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/2/20 4:55 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Same Michael Grant that used to be tech support for Moss? >> >>> On Dec 2, 2020, at 1:19 PM, Bob Haskell >>> wrote: >>> >>> ?Perry, >>> >>> Michael Grant has picked up Roger's parts business.? His email >>> address is grant67hbj8brg at gmail.com.? The price list I have showed >>> $80 for the pair. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>> >>>> On 12/2/20 2:44 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: >>>> Listers >>>> Anyone have a source for the subject gasket, Lucas part number >>>> 555-415 used on 1955 100?s? I believe Roger Moment had produced >>>> some of these parts decades ago and I bought a set for our BN2. >>>> These are the gaskets that have a flap on them that closes the gap >>>> between the installed headlight rim and the fender. Another 100 >>>> owner noticed them the other day and asked about availability. >>>> Anyone have a lead? >>>> Thanks >>>> Perry >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 2 16:01:57 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 18:01:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Headlight to body gasketyellow References: Message-ID: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7748.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 23750 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Yellow car has standard flat gasket -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7749.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 28971 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Red car has gasket with flap. Perry Sent from my iPhone From healey.nut at gmail.com Wed Dec 2 19:22:38 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 10:22:38 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100S for sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Maybe we should do like they do when they restore WWII airplanes they find in the russian swamps, and salvage a couple parts and call it a "restoration". Suggest to get a few leftover 100S parts with the same body number stamped on them, put it on an all new chassis and motor, sell it for $1.5 mil! On Thu, Dec 3, 2020 at 2:33 AM Perry Small via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Asking $1.5 million US > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Thu Dec 3 10:16:10 2020 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 17:16:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fw: [midwestahc] Motivated seller Mark III Sprite etc. BEST OFFER WILL separate Photos Available In-Reply-To: <1607015267697.2001342093@boxbe> References: <1607015267697.2001342093@boxbe> Message-ID: <2146430271.2616820.1607015770682@mail.yahoo.com> FYI NFI, located in northern Illinois. ----- Forwarded Message ----- This message is eligible for Automatic Cleanup! (cantrall at wrcresearch.com) Add cleanup rule | More info ACT NOW before vehicle is donated.? Vehicle must be relocated by Jan 11. Additional parts in this listing will be unavailable if we have moved them prior to your inquiry. ? 1968 Mark III Sprite, BRG, with vintage colorful AHSpares wing sticker, mostly complete, minus engine, but with transmission and complete carburetor setup.? Rare cruise control option.? Some rust.? Title. Early 1275 ?thin wall? engine?Runs--Excellent complete 1275 Head with hardened valve seats. 948 engine, mostly complete. Rare Bugeye drum brakes, assorted coil springs and miscellaneous other parts. Make an offer.? Will separate. ?May be able to arrange transportation of vehicle. ? Call Bill at 630 338 7800 Email:? cantrall at wrcresearch.com More photos on request! ? _._,_._,_ _._,_._,_ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201007_104350.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1352589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Dec 3 18:14:59 2020 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2020 20:14:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Paging John Vrugtman Message-ID: <07dd01d6c9da$e361a890$aa24f9b0$@rr.com> Sorry to bomb the list. John, would you contact me, please? Thanks! Steve Byers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Dec 6 06:25:12 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 13:25:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Little Austin Healey References: <1755251392.4948554.1607261112579.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1755251392.4948554.1607261112579@mail.yahoo.com> Listers For you folks that like the smaller versions of our toys. This little guy hangs out in Hawaii. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PMO200.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 14082 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Dec 6 06:58:24 2020 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 08:58:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Little Austin Healey In-Reply-To: <1755251392.4948554.1607261112579@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1755251392.4948554.1607261112579.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1755251392.4948554.1607261112579@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I got to wrench on Brett's car a few visits to the North Shore ago. Unfortunately, no visits to the islands this year, but thanks for posting a good memory. Mele Kalikimaka, Rick Neville On Sun, Dec 6, 2020 at 8:27 AM healeyguy--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > For you folks that like the smaller versions of our toys. This little guy > hangs out in Hawaii. > Perry > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Dec 6 15:14:34 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 17:14:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] tri-carb triva question Message-ID: <6aa1b061-ce2d-f832-8762-0c7704cef1b9@earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Dec 8 07:02:29 2020 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 14:02:29 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild Message-ID: Included in the Moss seal rebuild kit is a large wide/thin "rubber band" type seal that is not pictured in the service manual. I assume it goes over the thin round "castle top" spacer in the end cover??? Also my "castle top" spacer is removable (also not pictured seperate in service manual). Is this correct or an aftermarket MC? Also looking for plunger surface prep advise since it is a sealing surface and slides in the rear seal. Polish it? Super fine sandpaper? Just clean it? I plan to send the body out to be re-bushed. Thank you, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Tue Dec 8 10:51:47 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 08 Dec 2020 17:51:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild Message-ID: <4ebb167801bccaf2ce7b933a0d8a076d6342ce49@webmail> Don't sand any internal parts. OK to use crocus cloth to polish but no emery or other abrasive. Clean all with brake fluid. Rubber sleeve can go over the boot when installed to keep dirt out and boot from slipping...use rubber grease to lube all rubber. BRAKE PEDALS & MASTER CYLINDERS BN1, BN2 If you sleeve the cylinders they will be a permanent fix, but costly. If the bore is clean-no pits or scores then you do not need to sleeve. End cap is for access and is original. See pictures attached. Hank, healeyhelper.com -----------------------------------------From: "S and T Miller" To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: Sent: Tuesday December 8 2020 6:07:18AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild Included in the Moss seal rebuild kit is a large wide/thin "rubber band" type seal that is not pictured in the service manual. I assume it goes over the thin round "castle top" spacer in the end cover??? Also my "castle top" spacer is removable (also not pictured seperate in service manual). Is this correct or an aftermarket MC? Also looking for plunger surface prep advise since it is a sealing surface and slides in the rear seal. Polish it? Super fine sandpaper? Just clean it? I plan to send the body out to be re-bushed. Thank you, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 021-142_1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 39346 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: sleeved J.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 146693 bytes Desc: not available URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Tue Dec 8 11:29:25 2020 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 18:29:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild In-Reply-To: <4ebb167801bccaf2ce7b933a0d8a076d6342ce49@webmail> References: <4ebb167801bccaf2ce7b933a0d8a076d6342ce49@webmail> Message-ID: Thanks Hank. Ah, simple enough so the "rubber band" is just used in conjunction with the rubber boot. That crossed my mind, but was way overthinking it. Crocus Zcloth is basically 1500-2000 grit so kinda basically my "super fine" paper. My thought was that bores aren't typically perfectly smooth, and since the rod slides inside the rear seal, that maybe perfectly smooth isn't ideal. Again probably way overthinking it. I have also had great results with sleeved brake and clutch parts. I went through probably 3 sets of repo rear wheel cylinders (Bugeye), before resleeving the original ones. Not one problem since. The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." ________________________________ From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Tuesday, December 8, 2020 12:51 PM To: 'S and T Miller' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: RE: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild Don't sand any internal parts. OK to use crocus cloth to polish but no emery or other abrasive. Clean all with brake fluid. Rubber sleeve can go over the boot when installed to keep dirt out and boot from slipping...use rubber grease to lube all rubber. Brake Pedals & Master Cylinders BN1, BN2 [https://mossmotors.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/17f82f742ffe127f42dca9de82fb58b1/A/H/AHY-057_1.jpg] If you sleeve the cylinders they will be a permanent fix, but costly. If the bore is clean-no pits or scores then you do not need to sleeve. End cap is for access and is original. See pictures attached. Hank, healeyhelper.com ----------------------------------------- From: "S and T Miller" To: "healeys at autox.team.net" Cc: Sent: Tuesday December 8 2020 6:07:18AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 master cylinder rebuild Included in the Moss seal rebuild kit is a large wide/thin "rubber band" type seal that is not pictured in the service manual. I assume it goes over the thin round "castle top" spacer in the end cover??? Also my "castle top" spacer is removable (also not pictured seperate in service manual). Is this correct or an aftermarket MC? Also looking for plunger surface prep advise since it is a sealing surface and slides in the rear seal. Polish it? Super fine sandpaper? Just clean it? I plan to send the body out to be re-bushed. Thank you, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Dec 8 18:26:00 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 17:26:00 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] interesting Spridget paint job Message-ID: https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/vancouver-1974-mg-midget-convertible/7230473275.html Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cgmoog at optonline.net Tue Dec 8 20:57:17 2020 From: cgmoog at optonline.net (Chris Moog) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 22:57:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] interesting Spridget paint job In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1ab09135-3048-ac89-8c45-7eb35694b9a8@optonline.net> I would have painted the small triangle behind the front wheel brown like the car. Also lose those wheel covers. On 12/8/2020 8:26 PM, i erbs wrote: > https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/vancouver-1974-mg-midget-convertible/7230473275.html > Ira Erbs > Milwaukie,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Dec 8 21:09:21 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 20:09:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] interesting Spridget paint job In-Reply-To: <1ab09135-3048-ac89-8c45-7eb35694b9a8@optonline.net> References: <1ab09135-3048-ac89-8c45-7eb35694b9a8@optonline.net> Message-ID: <973edb18-ea3d-e193-1c1d-d8ce8677bcde@comcast.net> Looks more like a Corvette cove than a Healey cove. On 12/8/2020 7:57 PM, Chris Moog wrote: > I would have painted the small triangle behind the front wheel brown > like the car. > > Also lose those wheel covers. > > > On 12/8/2020 8:26 PM, i erbs wrote: >> https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/vancouver-1974-mg-midget-convertible/7230473275.html >> >> Ira Erbs >> Milwaukie,OR >> _______????????????? _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> ????????? BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB MG >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> >> ????Virus-free. www.avg.com >> >> >> >> >> From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 8 21:09:46 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 23:09:46 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] interesting Spridget paint job In-Reply-To: <1ab09135-3048-ac89-8c45-7eb35694b9a8@optonline.net> References: <1ab09135-3048-ac89-8c45-7eb35694b9a8@optonline.net> Message-ID: Re the "interesting Spridget paint job" I would name the car "Shamu". Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 8, 2020 at 10:58 PM Chris Moog wrote: > I would have painted the small triangle behind the front wheel brown > like the car. > > Also lose those wheel covers. > > > On 12/8/2020 8:26 PM, i erbs wrote: > > > https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/vancouver-1974-mg-midget-convertible/7230473275.html > > Ira Erbs > > Milwaukie,OR > > _______ _______ > > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB MG > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > > < > http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > > < > http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cgmoog at optonline.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Dec 8 22:28:08 2020 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 8 Dec 2020 21:28:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] interesting Spridget paint job In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b8201d6cdec$1468b270$3d3a1750$@roadrunner.com> Not to my liking, but to each his own. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2020 5:26 PM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] interesting Spridget paint job https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/vancouver-1974-mg-midget-convertible/7230473275.html Ira Erbs Milwaukie,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 9 12:55:11 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 9 Dec 2020 14:55:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wanted 100 Chassis Bits References: Message-ID: Listers Looking for a fellow Austin Healey owner. Wanted for a 100, BN1 or BN2 complete chassis with front and rear substructures or parts there of. He has a set of chassis main rails and most of the transverse pieces that connect the two main rails but everything above that level is not usable or missing. If you have something that you are willing to sell and have a price in mind let me know. A photo or two would be very helpful too. Contact: healeyguy at aol.com Or text to: 724-630-0377 Thanks Perry Sent from my iPhone From rfbegani at gmail.com Thu Dec 10 12:55:03 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Bob Begani) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 14:55:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Message-ID: You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? Regards, Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 10 13:01:41 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 15:01:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Bob, IMHO idle oil pressure is not really important. As long as there is some pressure the bearings will be adequately lubricated for the minimal load to which they are subjected. Of more concern is the pressure under load. I've always used the 10 p.s.i./ 1000 RPM rule and it has never let me down. M On Thu., Dec. 10, 2020, 2:55 p.m. Bob Begani, wrote: > You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of > overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the > starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you > have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and > others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional > bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment > without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the > tunnel to get to the starter bolts. > > Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil > pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at > idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam > etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable > replacement? > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com Thu Dec 10 13:04:08 2020 From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 15:04:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The gear reduction starter can be installed from beneath the car with someone helping on top. No need to remove the engine or the transmission tunnel. It's a pain but you can reach the bolts from the engine compartment. jon On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani wrote: > You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of > overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the > starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you > have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and > others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional > bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment > without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the > tunnel to get to the starter bolts. > > Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil > pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at > idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam > etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable > replacement? > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com > > -- Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq. Attorney & Counselor at Law 129 Whitney Avenue New Haven, CT. 06510 tel: 203-777-3777 einhornlawoffice at gmail.com fax: 203-782-1721 cell: 203-623-7373 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Dec 10 15:10:58 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 23:10:58 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <04d795a3-bbd6-c2f3-c29a-6d49d298d11a@chello.nl> The original starter motor is fine when overhauled properly and much more durable then a modern so called high torque starter. A H-T starter may use a bit less amps but it will not really spin over the engine much faster. It will make more revs than the old one because it has reduction gears so it sounds as if it spins the engine faster but in reality it does not or barely. If the oil drops to 20 psi at hot idle I would not worry. This is quite normal. Check the oil pressure at say 2000-2500rpm. For most engines it should be around the 50-60 psi. Check the specs in your WSM. Kees Oudesluijs Op 10-12-2020 om 20:55 schreef Bob Begani: > You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run > because of overheating.? the engine did turn over with a wrench, and > 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.? So I will replace the > starter.? Many of?you have recommended?a?gear reduction starter which > is available from Moss and others.? What source do you recomend.?? > Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.? > Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove > the engine?? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the > starter bolts. > > Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the > oil pump.? When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that > 20 psi at idle.? This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is > using the same cam etc. what? oil pump should i install and is the > Moss pump a reasonable replacement? > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Dec 10 17:31:45 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 19:31:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob-- As said you can install the starter from under the car. Though the adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will probably have to play with things a bit before you find the correct set-up. Best--Michael Oritt On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani wrote: > You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of > overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the > starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you > have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and > others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional > bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment > without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the > tunnel to get to the starter bolts. > > Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil > pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at > idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam > etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable > replacement? > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Dec 10 19:00:17 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 02:00:17 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1418782952.6866527.1607652017051@mail.yahoo.com> Bob Can't speak to the gear reduction units. Long ago, usually because original parts were not available, old timers would try other British parts on our Austin Healeys to keep those $300-$700 cars on the road. With some work a Lucas starter from a Jaguar (in this case part number 26183B, pretty sure its from a Jag MK2, will fit in a six cylinder AH. Fit issue is between the starter case and the engine block. Some grinding or file work required. Anyway these starters are a bit more stout and will spin the AH easily. I don't have the specs on both starters but every thing seems to be bigger in the Jag unit. As stated by others a stock starter will do the job if its in good nick but how much regular maintenance gets done on a starter. Just another piece of, perhaps, useless info. Perry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Begani To: Ahealey help Sent: Thu, Dec 10, 2020 2:55 pm Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating.? the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.? So I will replace the starter.? Many of?you have recommended?a?gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others.? What source do you recomend.?? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.? Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine?? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump.? When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle.? This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc.? what? oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? Regards, Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 From banjojohn at cox.net Thu Dec 10 21:36:08 2020 From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn) Date: Thu, 10 Dec 2020 22:36:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in high resistance.? Just a thought before you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds.John O'Brien'61 bugeye (Lucy)'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------- Original message --------From: Michael Oritt via Healeys Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Bob Begani Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Bob--As said you can install the starter from under the car.? Though the adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will probably?have to play with things a bit before you find the correct? set-up.Best--Michael?OrittOn Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani wrote:You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating.? the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.? So I will replace the starter.? Many of?you have recommended?a?gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others.? What source do you recomend.?? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.? Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine?? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts.Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump.? When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle.? This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc.? what? oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement?Regards,Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Dec 11 06:57:57 2020 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 13:57:57 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Swivel axle identification Message-ID: I understand that swivel axles are the same from BN2 C.E. 231203 to BJ7 (e)21766. Is there a way to identify the swivel axle when apart from a car (is there a part # stamped or other distinguishing feature?). Thank you, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Dec 11 09:25:44 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 08:25:44 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off). On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote: > I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard > starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out > to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in high > resistance.? Just a thought before you start replacing things is to > check connections and grounds. > John O'Brien > '61 bugeye (Lucy) > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > > > Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Michael Oritt via Healeys > Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) > To: Bob Begani > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction > starter > > Bob-- > > As said you can install the starter from under the car.? Though the > adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all > applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each > car so you will probably?have to play with things a bit before you > find the correct? set-up. > > Best--Michael?Oritt > > > On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani > wrote: > > You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run > because of overheating.? the engine did turn over with a wrench, > and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.? So I will replace > the starter.? Many of?you have recommended?a?gear reduction > starter which is available from Moss and others.? What source do > you recomend.?? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which > must be the gears.? Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment > without having to remove the engine?? As it is I will have to take > out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. > > Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was > the oil pump.? When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to > less that 20 psi at idle.? This engine was rebuilt with only 20 > over and is using the same cam etc.? what? oil pump should i > install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? > > Regards, > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Dec 11 10:19:17 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 17:19:17 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002101d6cfe1$c3ef00e0$4bcd02a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Isn?t there a braided earth strap lurking down there somewhere? With regard to a new type starter, WOSP in my case, it really does spin the engine faster than the original. Much faster. The WOSP?s noise lacks the old-fashioned gravitas(?) of the Lucas and, to be frank, sounds a bit like a Renault bread van! Or whatever.. And, the BJ8s, with their 2? SUs, don?t they need a nice fast spin to get the mixture in? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 11 December 2020 16:26 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off). On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote: I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in high resistance. Just a thought before you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------- Original message -------- From: Michael Oritt via Healeys Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Bob Begani Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Bob-- As said you can install the starter from under the car. Though the adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will probably have to play with things a bit before you find the correct set-up. Best--Michael Oritt On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani > wrote: You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? Regards, -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Fri Dec 11 12:51:17 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 19:51:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Swivel axle identification In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The Miller I am not aware of any particular marking but the thing to be careful of is that they are different from the early BN1 versions. A quick look and they seem to be the same but the BN1 has 3/8" threads and 3/8" holes for the long through bolts. The ones you are considering are 7/16" in both cases. Regards On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 13:58, S and T Miller wrote: > I understand that swivel axles are the same from BN2 C.E. 231203 to BJ7 > (e)21766. Is there a way to identify the swivel axle when apart from a car > (is there a part # stamped or other distinguishing feature?). > Thank you, Shawn > > The Millers > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Fri Dec 11 12:56:02 2020 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 19:56:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Swivel axle identification In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: That is some great info and helps guide me in what I should be looking for. Thank you The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." ________________________________ From: john harper Sent: Friday, December 11, 2020 2:51 PM To: S and T Miller Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Swivel axle identification The Miller I am not aware of any particular marking but the thing to be careful of is that they are different from the early BN1 versions. A quick look and they seem to be the same but the BN1 has 3/8" threads and 3/8" holes for the long through bolts. The ones you are considering are 7/16" in both cases. Regards On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 13:58, S and T Miller > wrote: I understand that swivel axles are the same from BN2 C.E. 231203 to BJ7 (e)21766. Is there a way to identify the swivel axle when apart from a car (is there a part # stamped or other distinguishing feature?). Thank you, Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Dec 11 13:02:23 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 15:02:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Swivel axle identification In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Shawn, I can't help with the early swivel axles.? The swivel axle you mentioned (BN2 - BJ7) is part number 1B4517.? On the two that I looked at there is a (forging?) number on the lower inboard side, between the two holes for the steering arm.? The number is 1B4518 (off by one). The inside diameter of the outer bearing is 7/8".? On the later swivel axles (BJ8), the same diameter is 3/4" and there is a left and a right.? The "diameter" that the inboard seal runs on is a separate piece. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/20 8:57 AM, S and T Miller wrote: > I understand that swivel axles are the same from BN2 C.E. 231203 to > BJ7 (e)21766. Is there a way to identify the swivel axle when apart > from a car (is there a part # stamped or other distinguishing feature?). > Thank you, Shawn > > The Millers > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > test drive." > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Dec 11 14:50:13 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 21:50:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter Message-ID: <66a531cbecdff3cd687d44ebe350d9cc92d298b5@webmail> I just "yanked" my BJ8 starter after 70,000+ miles and took it to Don' Auto Electric (he does Leno items), The car was starting slowly and in a "rolling" fashion and I had suspected a worn motor mount. No, it was the starter-armature was egg shaped and Don said it was the worst he has seen in 30 years! However, he also indicated that the Lucas item was very robust and although he said he couldn't see how the car was ever starting, it was. The bad news is that armatures, or rewound ones, are no where to be found. I finally located a used one in better shape than mine and he is rebuilding the unit. Here are pics of a 60 year old working starter. After about an hour of fiddling it will go right back on the car without removing the tunnel or engine...hint: remove the oil filter at the block connection and it makes it easier to fish. Then spend some quality time putting the two 9/16" bolts back in place. More Healey fun, but who's going anywhere anyway? Hank, healeyhelper.com -----------------------------------------From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys" To: "rfbegani at gmail.com" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday December 10 2020 6:01:06PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Bob Can't speak to the gear reduction units. Long ago, usually because original parts were not available, old timers would try other British parts on our Austin Healeys to keep those $300-$700 cars on the road. With some work a Lucas starter from a Jaguar (in this case part number 26183B, pretty sure its from a Jag MK2, will fit in a six cylinder AH. Fit issue is between the starter case and the engine block. Some grinding or file work required. Anyway these starters are a bit more stout and will spin the AH easily. I don't have the specs on both starters but every thing seems to be bigger in the Jag unit. As stated by others a stock starter will do the job if its in good nick but how much regular maintenance gets done on a starter. Just another piece of, perhaps, useless info. Perry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Begani To: Ahealey help Sent: Thu, Dec 10, 2020 2:55 pm Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? Regards, Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net Healeys at autox.team.net Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html http://www.team.net/donate.html /> Suggested annual donation __DOLLAR_SYMBOL__12.75 Archive: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: armature gone.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 390626 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: brushes shot.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 270553 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: position.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 227692 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Dec 11 15:10:50 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 23:10:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter In-Reply-To: <66a531cbecdff3cd687d44ebe350d9cc92d298b5@webmail> References: <66a531cbecdff3cd687d44ebe350d9cc92d298b5@webmail> Message-ID: <82de5bdb-8295-1ddd-a1b1-0a7932f85ec9@chello.nl> Probably caused by brushes not been replaced in time. You can sometimes find ones on eBay.co.uk: see eBay Item: 203059655556. This could well be the one you are looking for. You can find the correct number in the old Lucas books. Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-12-2020 om 22:50 schreef gradea1 at charter.net: > I just "yanked" my BJ8 starter after 70,000+ miles and took it to Don' > Auto Electric (he does Leno items),? The car was starting slowly and > in a "rolling" fashion and I had suspected a worn motor mount. No, it > was the starter-armature was egg shaped and Don said it was the worst > he has seen in 30 years! However, he also indicated that the Lucas > item was very robust and although he said he couldn't see how the car > was ever starting, it was. > > The bad news is that armatures, or rewound ones, are no where to be > found.? I finally located a used one in better shape than mine and he > is rebuilding the unit. Here are pics of a 60 year old working > starter. After about an hour of fiddling it will go right back on the > car without removing the tunnel or engine...hint: remove the oil > filter at the block connection and it makes it easier to fish.? Then > spend some quality time putting the two 9/16" bolts back in place. > More Healey fun, but who's going anywhere anyway? Hank, healeyhelper.com > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys" > To: "rfbegani at gmail.com" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Thursday December 10 2020 6:01:06PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter > > Bob > Can't speak to the gear reduction units. > Long ago, usually because original parts were not available, old > timers would try other British parts on our Austin Healeys to keep > those $300-$700 cars on the road. With some work a Lucas starter from > a Jaguar (in this case part number 26183B, pretty sure its from a Jag > MK2, will fit in a six cylinder AH. Fit issue is between the starter > case and the engine block. Some grinding or file work required. Anyway > these starters are a bit more stout and will spin the AH easily. I > don't have the specs on both starters but every thing seems to be > bigger in the Jag unit. As stated by others a stock starter will do > the job if its in good nick but how much regular maintenance gets done > on a starter. Just another piece of, perhaps, useless info. > Perry > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Begani > To: Ahealey help > Sent: Thu, Dec 10, 2020 2:55 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter > > You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run > because of overheating.? the engine did turn over with a wrench, and > 50 amp on the starter made it only moan.? So I will replace the > starter.? Many of?you have recommended?a?gear reduction starter which > is available from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.?? > Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears.? > Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove > the engine? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the > starter bolts. > > Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the > oil pump.? When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that > 20 psi at idle.? This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is > using the same cam etc.? what? oil pump should i install and is the > Moss pump a reasonable replacement? > Regards, > Bob Begani > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html/> Suggested annual > donation? $12.75 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > http://www.team.net/donate.html/> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive/> > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys/> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net/> > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 11 15:57:41 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 17:57:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter bits References: <5979C87D-204C-4431-8CE2-5BF90D9BA298.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <5979C87D-204C-4431-8CE2-5BF90D9BA298@aol.com> These have not been tested but there are a few on the shelf... -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7766.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 30856 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7765.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 35708 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Perry Sent from my iPhone From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Dec 11 20:21:46 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (p_cquinn at tpg.com.au) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 14:21:46 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Message-ID: Hello ?I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. ?While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the plaque before. ?Anyone familiar with it? ?Thanks ?Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 125501 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Dec 11 21:30:20 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 20:30:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0f0784f1-600f-7736-bc92-ba18afae5f06@comcast.net> I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer was acting up. On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au wrote: > > Hello > > I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. > > While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the > 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never > seen the plaque before. > > Anyone familiar with it? > > ?T > > hanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Dec 11 23:25:19 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 06:25:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Steering Mount and Fender Screws References: <2037659267.96820.1607754319472.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2037659267.96820.1607754319472@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone tell me what screws are used to fasten the fenders to the "A" pillar of my BN2? (see picture)? Also, How do I know which of the four holes the steering column bolts to?? (see other picture)Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Fender1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 147744 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Shaft1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 143302 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Dec 11 23:41:38 2020 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 11 Dec 2020 22:41:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Mount and Fender Screws In-Reply-To: <2037659267.96820.1607754319472@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2037659267.96820.1607754319472.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2037659267.96820.1607754319472@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There are 4 holes for the steering column mount so you can adjust the height of the steering wheel. Remember, the steering box also pivots so do not tighten the 3 steering box bolts until after you select the column/steering wheel height mounting position from one of the 4 alternatives. On Fri, Dec 11, 2020 at 10:28 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Can someone tell me what screws are used to fasten the fenders to the "A" > pillar of my BN2? (see picture) Also, How do I know which of the four > holes the steering column bolts to? (see other picture) > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sat Dec 12 05:21:49 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 12:21:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Swivel axle identification In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob Frequently one sees two adjacent part numbers for an item. Having seen many examples I believe that the unfinished item is one number and the finished item is that which appears as the number in the parts list. On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 20:13, Bob Haskell wrote: > Shawn, > > I can't help with the early swivel axles. The swivel axle you mentioned > (BN2 - BJ7) is part number 1B4517. On the two that I looked at there is > a (forging?) number on the lower inboard side, between the two holes for > the steering arm. The number is 1B4518 (off by one). > > The inside diameter of the outer bearing is 7/8". On the later swivel > axles (BJ8), the same diameter is 3/4" and there is a left and a right. > The "diameter" that the inboard seal runs on is a separate piece. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/11/20 8:57 AM, S and T Miller wrote: > > I understand that swivel axles are the same from BN2 C.E. 231203 to > > BJ7 (e)21766. Is there a way to identify the swivel axle when apart > > from a car (is there a part # stamped or other distinguishing feature?). > > Thank you, Shawn > > > > The Millers > > > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a > > test drive." > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sat Dec 12 08:50:32 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 15:50:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but the worst case I have heard of was bad starting and final a burnt out the speedo cable. The strap from the engine plate to the chassis had become very frayed and burnt looking. How I don't know but when checked it was not tightly bolted to the chassis. There must have been localised heat at this connection that heated up the strap until it became open circuit. Once it became open circuit there still had to be a way to earth and this just happened to be up the speedo cable but could have been anywhere where there was an electrical connection from the engine to the chassis. On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell wrote: > My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and had > the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed the > starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and > flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop, who said > the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I omitted the > flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on > the starter and the engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split > washers cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if > grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is > grounded through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW, > scrape the paint off). > > > On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote: > > I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard starting > issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor > connection at a battery terminal resulting in high resistance. Just a > thought before you start replacing things is to check connections and > grounds. > John O'Brien > '61 bugeye (Lucy) > '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) > > > > Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Michael Oritt via Healeys > > Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) > To: Bob Begani > Cc: Ahealey help > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter > > Bob-- > > As said you can install the starter from under the car. Though the > adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications > usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will > probably have to play with things a bit before you find the correct set-up. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > > On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani wrote: > >> You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because >> of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the >> starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you >> have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and >> others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional >> bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment >> without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the >> tunnel to get to the starter bolts. >> >> Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil >> pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at >> idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam >> etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable >> replacement? >> >> Regards, >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Dec 12 09:19:12 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 08:19:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter In-Reply-To: References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> Message-ID: Almost sounds like all Lucas electricals need a GFI! On 12/12/2020 7:50 AM, john harper wrote: > Bob > > The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but the worst > case I have heard of was bad starting and final a burnt out the speedo > cable. The strap from the engine plate to the chassis had become very > frayed and burnt looking. How I don't know but when checked it was not > tightly bolted to the chassis. There must have been localised heat at > this connection that heated up the strap until it became open circuit. > Once it became open circuit there still had to be a way to earth and > this just happened to be up the speedo cable but could have been > anywhere where there was an electrical?connection from the engine to > the chassis. > > On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries > and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially > installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and > grade 8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the > starter to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. > When I re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter > worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the > engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut > through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if > grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the > starter is grounded through the engine plate you need a good > connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off). > > > On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote: >> I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard >> starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned >> out to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in >> high resistance.? Just a thought before you start replacing >> things is to check connections and grounds. >> John O'Brien >> '61 bugeye (Lucy) >> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sat Dec 12 09:43:43 2020 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 11:43:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter References: <20201211043705.9B461A0C4F@autox.team.net> <23799002-9b46-d9e4-7b71-e97f88719d46@comcast.net> Message-ID: <002901d6d0a5$f4b3be90$de1b3bb0$@verizon.net> My starter was very sluggish but would grudgingly start my car. As part of a carburator rebuild project I noticed that they got hot and were tingly to the touch. I thought that there was a short somewhere. At the same time I decided to also check the starter and I noticed that the DPO had left the ground strap off. Problem solved. Started tike a champ from then on and no more tingles at the carbs. John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys > On Behalf Of john harper Sent: Saturday, December 12, 2020 10:51 AM To: Bob Spidell >; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Bob The earthing of the starter to the engine is as you say but the worst case I have heard of was bad starting and final a burnt out the speedo cable. The strap from the engine plate to the chassis had become very frayed and burnt looking. How I don't know but when checked it was not tightly bolted to the chassis. There must have been localised heat at this connection that heated up the strap until it became open circuit. Once it became open circuit there still had to be a way to earth and this just happened to be up the speedo cable but could have been anywhere where there was an electrical connection from the engine to the chassis. On Fri, 11 Dec 2020 at 16:27, Bob Spidell > wrote: My BN2 became hard to start a while ago. I installed new batteries and had the starter rebuilt, and I painted it. When I'd initially installed the starter I'd used grade 8 bolts, grade 8 nuts and grade 8 split washers and flat washers under the nuts. I took the starter to a local shop, who said the starter checked-out fine. When I re-installed it I omitted the flat-washers, and the starter worked! Apparently, there was enough paint on the starter and the engine paint to prevent good conduction; the split washers cut through the paint enough to allow conductivity. I don't know if grade 8 hardware is less conductive than grade 5, but since the starter is grounded through the engine plate you need a good connection there (IOW, scrape the paint off). On 12/10/2020 8:36 PM, banjojohn via Healeys wrote: I expect you've already checked other possible reasons for hard starting issues, but I had a problem a few years ago that turned out to be a poor connection at a battery terminal resulting in high resistance. Just a thought before you start replacing things is to check connections and grounds. John O'Brien '61 bugeye (Lucy) '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S10e. -------- Original message -------- From: Michael Oritt via Healeys Date: 12/10/20 9:00 PM (GMT-06:00) To: Bob Begani Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Bob-- As said you can install the starter from under the car. Though the adapter plates and motor units are indexable to fit most all applications usually there is only one position that will fit on each car so you will probably have to play with things a bit before you find the correct set-up. Best--Michael Oritt On Thu, Dec 10, 2020 at 2:56 PM Bob Begani > wrote: You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? Regards, _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sat Dec 12 09:58:30 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 08:58:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Steering Mount and Fender Screws In-Reply-To: References: <2037659267.96820.1607754319472.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2037659267.96820.1607754319472@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: #6 screws for the hundreds. I think later models might use #4s. If you have some wallered out holes that won't hold a #6 but will hold an 8 you can use #6 Johnson screws that have #8 threads with #6 heads. If you are drilling new holes try to get some hardened #6 screws, maybe hex head, to help you cut the new threads. A bit of grease or petroleum jelly helps too. -Roland > On Fri, Dec 11, 2020 at 10:28 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Can someone tell me what screws are used to fasten the fenders to the "A" >> pillar of my BN2? (see picture) Also, How do I know which of the four >> holes the steering column bolts to? (see other picture) >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Dec 12 10:31:27 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 09:31:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque In-Reply-To: <0f0784f1-600f-7736-bc92-ba18afae5f06@comcast.net> References: <0f0784f1-600f-7736-bc92-ba18afae5f06@comcast.net> Message-ID: <7AA486EF293D45CF94F08F7BC4790F63@AllInOne> Patrick, I have never seen that Brass Plaque before but I will suggest it could be very rare. This is what I think it is. The car it came from is a Healey 100 BN1 with a Laycock de Normanville series 1260 overdrive and the 4 speed transmission from the A70/A90 with 1st gear blocked. The rear axle ratio is 8/33 (4.125 to 1) and the tires are Dunlop Road Speed. The chassis number of the car is prior to 140205 and the car was most likely built before August 1953. I suspect the car had a speedometer in MPH but he car was exported to a country where the speed limits were in kilometres per hour. According to the Clausager book only a handful of these cars were built with the 1260 overdrive and even fewer were exported to a country with km speed limits. I trust this helps, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, December 11, 2020 8:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer was acting up. On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au wrote: Hello I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the plaque before. Anyone familiar with it? T hanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sat Dec 12 11:21:38 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 18:21:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Message-ID: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> Excellent detective work Harold...you must have good records. According to my list, if I use your findings; the car came from batch 4021 (62 cars). The following cars went to countries other than the US: Chassis138040 (29) to Denmark, 138100 to Australia, 138987 (45) to Australia..all but 138100 were built prior to August 1953. The first car completed in the next batch 4284 (47 cars), was built on 8-12-53. This may help Patrick to figure out where the plaque was originally assigned, as 138987 is still in Australia and the whereabouts of 138100 is unknown and the Denmark car was built in December. All the other cars came to the US and probably had MPH speedometers and 28% overdrives. It would depend on what supplies were available on the shelf, at the time they were built. There is a possibility that it was on one of the 4 test cars or AHX17; that they used for record setting. AHR6 (NOJ392)- test car- did eventually ship to Australia after some great history in the UK, and it is restored and existing there now. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: Sent: Saturday December 12 2020 9:32:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Patrick, I have never seen that Brass Plaque before but I will suggest it could be very rare. This is what I think it is. The car it came from is a Healey 100 BN1 with a Laycock de Normanville series 1260 overdrive and the 4 speed transmission from the A70/A90 with 1st gear blocked. The rear axle ratio is 8/33 (4.125 to 1) and the tires are Dunlop Road Speed. The chassis number of the car is prior to 140205 and the car was most likely built before August 1953. I suspect the car had a speedometer in MPH but he car was exported to a country where the speed limits were in kilometres per hour. According to the Clausager book only a handful of these cars were built with the 1260 overdrive and even fewer were exported to a country with km speed limits. I trust this helps, Harold ------------------------- FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Bob Spidell SENT: Friday, December 11, 2020 8:30 PM TO: healeys at autox.team.net SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer was acting up. On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au [1] wrote: Hello I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the plaque before. Anyone familiar with it? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Links: ------ [1] mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Healey100M at gmail.com Sat Dec 12 11:39:43 2020 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 13:39:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque In-Reply-To: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> References: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> Message-ID: <17D684A0-32AA-436D-8DE5-795532BE4240@me.com> In the AHCA 100 Registry, I show 138100 as being in Victoria. Metallic Green with Green trim. The entry is very early (before my time as Registrar) and I do have some questions about it. Randy Randy Hicks AHCA 100 Registrar ahca100registrar at gmail.com RandyHicks at me.com www.austinhealey100m.com > On Dec 12, 2020, at 1:21 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > Excellent detective work Harold...you must have good records According to my list, if I use your findings; the car came from batch 4021 (62 cars). The following cars went to countries other than the US: Chassis138040 (29) to Denmark, 138100 to Australia, 138987 (45) to Australia...all but 138100 were built prior to August 1953. The first car completed in the next batch 4284 (47 cars), was built on 8-12-53. > > This may help Patrick to figure out where the plaque was originally assigned, as 138987 is still in Australia and the whereabouts of 138100 is unknown and the Denmark car was built in December All the other cars came to the US and probably had MPH speedometers and 28% overdrives. It would depend on what supplies were available on the shelf, at the time they were built. > > There is a possibility that it was on one of the 4 test cars or AHX17; that they used for record setting. AHR6 (NOJ392)- test car- did eventually ship to Australia after some great history in the UK, and it is restored and existing there now. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Harold Manifold" > To: "Bob Spidell" > Cc: > Sent: Saturday December 12 2020 9:32:18AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque > > Patrick, > > I have never seen that Brass Plaque before but I will suggest it could be very rare. This is what I think it is. > > The car it came from is a Healey 100 BN1 with a Laycock de Normanville series 1260 overdrive and the 4 speed transmission from the A70/A90 with 1st gear blocked. The rear axle ratio is 8/33 (4.125 to 1) and the tires are Dunlop Road Speed. The chassis number of the car is prior to 140205 and the car was most likely built before August 1953. I suspect the car had a speedometer in MPH but he car was exported to a country where the speed limits were in kilometres per hour. > > According to the Clausager book only a handful of these cars were built with the 1260 overdrive and even fewer were exported to a country with km speed limits. > > I trust this helps, > > Harold > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell > Sent: Friday, December 11, 2020 8:30 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque > > I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer was acting up. > > On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au wrote: >> Hello >> >> >> I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. >> >> While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the plaque before. >> >> Anyone familiar with it? >> T >> >> hanks >> >> Patrick Quinn >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat Dec 12 14:12:58 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 10:12:58 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque In-Reply-To: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> References: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> Message-ID: <004701d6d0cb$92e29670$b8a7c350$@xtra.co.nz> Hello, Patrick, I?m curious ? what are the dimensions, is it engraved, and why are there no fixing holes in the corners? Cheers Mark Ardmore, NZ From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Sunday, 13 December 2020 7:22 a.m. To: 'Harold Manifold' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' ; 'p_cquinn at tpg.com.au' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Excellent detective work Harold...you must have good records According to my list, if I use your findings; the car came from batch 4021 (62 cars). The following cars went to countries other than the US: Chassis138040 (29) to Denmark, 138100 to Australia, 138987 (45) to Australia...all but 138100 were built prior to August 1953. The first car completed in the next batch 4284 (47 cars), was built on 8-12-53. This may help Patrick to figure out where the plaque was originally assigned, as 138987 is still in Australia and the whereabouts of 138100 is unknown and the Denmark car was built in December All the other cars came to the US and probably had MPH speedometers and 28% overdrives. It would depend on what supplies were available on the shelf, at the time they were built. There is a possibility that it was on one of the 4 test cars or AHX17; that they used for record setting. AHR6 (NOJ392)- test car- did eventually ship to Australia after some great history in the UK, and it is restored and existing there now. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: Sent: Saturday December 12 2020 9:32:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Patrick, I have never seen that Brass Plaque before but I will suggest it could be very rare. This is what I think it is. The car it came from is a Healey 100 BN1 with a Laycock de Normanville series 1260 overdrive and the 4 speed transmission from the A70/A90 with 1st gear blocked. The rear axle ratio is 8/33 (4.125 to 1) and the tires are Dunlop Road Speed. The chassis number of the car is prior to 140205 and the car was most likely built before August 1953. I suspect the car had a speedometer in MPH but he car was exported to a country where the speed limits were in kilometres per hour. According to the Clausager book only a handful of these cars were built with the 1260 overdrive and even fewer were exported to a country with km speed limits. I trust this helps, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, December 11, 2020 8:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer was acting up. On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au wrote: Hello I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the plaque before. Anyone familiar with it? T hanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Dec 12 15:25:06 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 09:25:06 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque In-Reply-To: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> References: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> Message-ID: <006201d6d0d5$a5b4f680$f11ee380$@tpg.com.au> Hello Thanks for all that. I will explore further. I do have a record of 138987 as being in Australia, but its full chassis number is BN1L/138987. NOJ 392 went back to the UK some years back. Hoo Roo Patrick From: gradea1 at charter.net [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] Sent: Sunday, 13 December 2020 5:22 AM To: 'Harold Manifold' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net'; 'p_cquinn at tpg.com.au' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Excellent detective work Harold...you must have good records According to my list, if I use your findings; the car came from batch 4021 (62 cars). The following cars went to countries other than the US: Chassis138040 (29) to Denmark, 138100 to Australia, 138987 (45) to Australia...all but 138100 were built prior to August 1953. The first car completed in the next batch 4284 (47 cars), was built on 8-12-53. This may help Patrick to figure out where the plaque was originally assigned, as 138987 is still in Australia and the whereabouts of 138100 is unknown and the Denmark car was built in December All the other cars came to the US and probably had MPH speedometers and 28% overdrives. It would depend on what supplies were available on the shelf, at the time they were built. There is a possibility that it was on one of the 4 test cars or AHX17; that they used for record setting. AHR6 (NOJ392)- test car- did eventually ship to Australia after some great history in the UK, and it is restored and existing there now. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Bob Spidell" Cc: Sent: Saturday December 12 2020 9:32:18AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque Patrick, I have never seen that Brass Plaque before but I will suggest it could be very rare. This is what I think it is. The car it came from is a Healey 100 BN1 with a Laycock de Normanville series 1260 overdrive and the 4 speed transmission from the A70/A90 with 1st gear blocked. The rear axle ratio is 8/33 (4.125 to 1) and the tires are Dunlop Road Speed. The chassis number of the car is prior to 140205 and the car was most likely built before August 1953. I suspect the car had a speedometer in MPH but he car was exported to a country where the speed limits were in kilometres per hour. According to the Clausager book only a handful of these cars were built with the 1260 overdrive and even fewer were exported to a country with km speed limits. I trust this helps, Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, December 11, 2020 8:30 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer was acting up. On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au wrote: Hello I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the plaque before. Anyone familiar with it? T hanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Dec 12 17:32:43 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 12 Dec 2020 19:32:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brass Plaque In-Reply-To: <006201d6d0d5$a5b4f680$f11ee380$@tpg.com.au> References: <3e5e15ff0f6a7e01bae1aac05091f7de28dd087b@webmail> <006201d6d0d5$a5b4f680$f11ee380$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: I find it hard to believe that someone would go to the trouble to have such a plaque done as a one-off. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Dec 12, 2020 at 5:25 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > Hello > > > > Thanks for all that. > > > > I will explore further. I do have a record of 138987 as being in > Australia, but its full chassis number is BN1L/138987. > > > > NOJ 392 went back to the UK some years back. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick > > > > *From:* gradea1 at charter.net [mailto:gradea1 at charter.net] > *Sent:* Sunday, 13 December 2020 5:22 AM > *To:* 'Harold Manifold' > *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net'; 'p_cquinn at tpg.com.au' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque > > > > Excellent detective work Harold...you must have good records According to > my list, if I use your findings; the car came from batch 4021 (62 cars). > The following cars went to countries other than the US: Chassis138040 (29) > to Denmark, 138100 to Australia, 138987 (45) to Australia...all but 138100 > were built prior to August 1953. The first car completed in the next batch > 4284 (47 cars), was built on 8-12-53. > > > > This may help Patrick to figure out where the plaque was originally > assigned, as 138987 is still in Australia and the whereabouts of 138100 is > unknown and the Denmark car was built in December All the other cars came > to the US and probably had MPH speedometers and 28% overdrives. It would > depend on what supplies were available on the shelf, at the time they were > built. > > > > There is a possibility that it was on one of the 4 test cars or AHX17; > that they used for record setting. AHR6 (NOJ392)- test car- did eventually > ship to Australia after some great history in the UK, and it is restored > and existing there now. Hank > > > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "Harold Manifold" > To: "Bob Spidell" > Cc: > Sent: Saturday December 12 2020 9:32:18AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque > > Patrick, > > > > I have never seen that Brass Plaque before but I will suggest it could be > very rare. This is what I think it is. > > > > The car it came from is a Healey 100 BN1 with a Laycock de Normanville series > 1260 overdrive and the 4 speed transmission from the A70/A90 with 1st gear > blocked. The rear axle ratio is 8/33 (4.125 to 1) and the tires are Dunlop > Road Speed. The chassis number of the car is prior to 140205 and the car > was most likely built before August 1953. I suspect the car had a > speedometer in MPH but he car was exported to a country where the speed > limits were in kilometres per hour. > > > > According to the Clausager book only a handful of these cars were built > with the 1260 overdrive and even fewer were exported to a country with km > speed limits. > > > > I trust this helps, > > > > Harold > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Friday, December 11, 2020 8:30 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Brass Plaque > > I've never seen one of these, but I've made similar when my speedometer > was acting up. > > On 12/11/2020 7:21 PM, p_cquinn at tpg.com.au wrote: > > Hello > > > > I have been asked if I could identify this brass plaque. > > > > While I recognise the script as the same as found on page A/5 in the 100 > Service Manual and page 22 of the Owner's Handbook, I have never seen the > plaque before. > > > > Anyone familiar with it? > > T > > hanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > > > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_9195175424759109126_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Dec 13 06:28:54 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 13:28:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Jake Voelkers References: <687997715.135677.1607866134785.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <687997715.135677.1607866134785@mail.yahoo.com> Listers Anyone have contact email for Jake Voelkers in Manassas Virginia? Please send to me off list. Thanks Perry healeyguy at aol.com From manifold at telus.net Sun Dec 13 10:44:15 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 09:44:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate Message-ID: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should look similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point for a fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks like versions of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel pump. I am interested to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam driven pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. Part number appreciated if it exists. Thanks in advance.... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Engine Blanking Plate.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Engine Blanking Plate.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 13 11:04:09 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 13:04:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> References: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> Message-ID: Yes Harold, The earlier 6 cylinder engines used this blanking plate to cover the fuel pump hole. [image: image.png] M On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should look > similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point for a > fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks like versions > of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel pump. I am > interested to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam driven > pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. Part > number appreciated if it exists. > > > Thanks in advance.... Harold > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Engine Blanking Plate.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 248380 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Dec 13 12:56:01 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 19:56:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Have the plate In-Reply-To: <78669BB0510145FE85FEB307C5096B8A@AllInOne> References: <7E2B8DE9-F9EB-4C3C-96C5-02BB87C180FE.ref@aol.com> <7E2B8DE9-F9EB-4C3C-96C5-02BB87C180FE@aol.com> <78669BB0510145FE85FEB307C5096B8A@AllInOne> Message-ID: <1151001149.187006.1607889361833@mail.yahoo.com> Harold I might have access to the block later tomorrow to get the hole size for you. Interesting that the fellow that is rebuilding this engine lived in England years ago. He mentioned that these engines were used on farming Combines and did use a mechanical fuel pump in that location. Perry From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Dec 13 14:04:36 2020 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2020 08:04:36 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> Message-ID: <003201d6d193$913e8680$b3bb9380$@tpg.com.au> Hello Attached is a photo of the first six-cylinder C26W engine fitted to an Austin-Healey (BN3/1) that shows the plate towards the front. The engine has since been rebuilt and is back in the car. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, 14 December 2020 5:04 AM To: Harold Manifold Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate Yes Harold, The earlier 6 cylinder engines used this blanking plate to cover the fuel pump hole. image.png M On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold wrote: Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should look similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point for a fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks like versions of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel pump. I am interested to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam driven pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. Part number appreciated if it exists. Thanks in advance.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 248380 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSC00681.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 578825 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 13 14:38:15 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 21:38:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stripped! References: <1344256018.250989.1607895495714.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1344256018.250989.1607895495714@mail.yahoo.com> ???? I think I invented a new swear word last night in the garage.? I'm sure most of you have gotten creative in that area when working on your car.? I was bolting the engine mounts to the block of my BN2 last night assembled with all NEW rubber mounting pads.? To get all four bolts (two in the block and two on the front plate) lined up, the two UNF nuts that bolt the "L" shaped plate to the outside of the rubber block were removed to aid in getting the holes lined up.? The last thing to do was to re-install the plate and tighten these two nuts.? Top one on, no problem.? While tightening the bottom one, POP!? The bottom nut flattened out the threads on the stud and just turned loosely in place preventing the nut from tightening.? Good thing there were no small children in the garage at that time!? That's another complaint about these fasteners.? I had to send to British Tool and Fasteners for the four short BSF bolts that go into the block at the bottom of the engine mount. ? Not cheap.? Moss did not have them in that size for the short length needed to fit the limited amount of threads in the block.? .? The four bolts and nuts that go through the front plate don't have to be BSF necessarily, but anything that is threaded to the block does.? Now another 14 bucks plus tax, plus shipping to Moss for another rubber mounting block last night.? On a positive note, one engine mount is finished and a new swear word is invented that I am sure will be heard within the walls of my garage again.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 13 14:48:18 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2020 21:48:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: <003201d6d193$913e8680$b3bb9380$@tpg.com.au> References: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> <003201d6d193$913e8680$b3bb9380$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <1160909580.266576.1607896098394@mail.yahoo.com> Something similar on the four cylinder block.? I am sure there is? factory cover for this opening in the block, but I did not have one with the block that was given to me as a basis for my engine build.? David at British Car Specialists makes up plates just for this purpose.? Unless you are doing a concours restoration, David's plate will work just fine.? In fact I just installed mine.? Here it is before painting.Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 1:05:37 PM PST, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: #yiv0441385083 #yiv0441385083 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0441385083 #yiv0441385083 p.yiv0441385083MsoNormal, #yiv0441385083 li.yiv0441385083MsoNormal, #yiv0441385083 div.yiv0441385083MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv0441385083 a:link, #yiv0441385083 span.yiv0441385083MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0441385083 a:visited, #yiv0441385083 span.yiv0441385083MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0441385083 span.yiv0441385083EmailStyle17 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;}#yiv0441385083 .yiv0441385083MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv0441385083 div.yiv0441385083WordSection1 {}#yiv0441385083 Hello ? Attached is a photo of the first six-cylinder C26W engine fitted to an Austin-Healey (BN3/1) that shows the plate towards the front. ? The engine has since been rebuilt and is back in the car. ? Hoo Roo ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, 14 December 2020 5:04 AM To: Harold Manifold Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate ? Yes Harold, The earlier 6 cylinder engines used this blanking plate to cover the fuel pump hole. M ? ? On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold wrote: Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should look similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point for a fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks?like versions of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel pump. I am interested?to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam driven pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. Part number appreciated if it exists. ? ? Thanks in advance.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Plate.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 181885 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 248380 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Mon Dec 14 03:49:07 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2020 10:49:07 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: <1160909580.266576.1607896098394@mail.yahoo.com> References: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> <003201d6d193$913e8680$b3bb9380$@tpg.com.au> <1160909580.266576.1607896098394@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael May I just add to this because on face value this plate fitting arrangement appears to be a bit strange? On the block are two studs over which the plate is fitted but the long studs have collars to space out the nuts and spring washer on the studs that would be too long. The question is why not use shorter studs? The answer I believe is that when engines were being made it was not known if the engine was to be fitted to an Austin Atlantic or an AH100. Production is an assembly process and taking out long studs and fitting shorter alternatives would slow down production. It was much more straight forward to fit either the mechanical pump or a blanking plate with collars to take up the length when a thinner plate was fitted on a 100. The part numbers are 1 Plate 1B2386 1 Joint washer 1E504 2 Stud 2K3451 2 Collar 2K9631 2 Nuts 2K39 2 Spring Washer 2K1211 Best regards On Sun, 13 Dec 2020 at 21:50, Michael MacLean wrote: > Something similar on the four cylinder block. I am sure there is factory > cover for this opening in the block, but I did not have one with the block > that was given to me as a basis for my engine build. David at British Car > Specialists makes up plates just for this purpose. Unless you are doing a > concours restoration, David's plate will work just fine. In fact I just > installed mine. Here it is before painting. > Mike MacLean > > On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 1:05:37 PM PST, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < > p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > > > Hello > > > > Attached is a photo of the first six-cylinder C26W engine fitted to an > Austin-Healey (BN3/1) that shows the plate towards the front. > > > > The engine has since been rebuilt and is back in the car. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* Monday, 14 December 2020 5:04 AM > *To:* Harold Manifold > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate > > > > Yes Harold, The earlier 6 cylinder engines used this blanking plate to > cover the fuel pump hole. > > [image: image.png] > > M > > > > > > On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold > wrote: > > Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should look > similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point for a > fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks like versions > of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel pump. I am > interested to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam driven > pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. Part > number appreciated if it exists. > > > > > > Thanks in advance.... Harold > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_7551647433230518407_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 248380 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 14 07:33:53 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2020 09:33:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> <003201d6d193$913e8680$b3bb9380$@tpg.com.au> <1160909580.266576.1607896098394@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes thanks for pointing that out however, before we confuse everyone, I should add that what you have mentioned about the spacers does NOT apply to the 6 cylinder engines that used that blanking plate. Sixes just used 5/16" UNF nuts with spring washers. M On Mon., Dec. 14, 2020, 5:50 a.m. john harper, wrote: > Michael > > May I just add to this because on face value this plate fitting > arrangement appears to be a bit strange? On the block are two studs over > which the plate is fitted but the long studs have collars to space out the > nuts and spring washer on the studs that would be too long. The question is > why not use shorter studs? The answer I believe is that when engines were > being made it was not known if the engine was to be fitted to an Austin > Atlantic or an AH100. Production is an assembly process and taking out long > studs and fitting shorter alternatives would slow down production. It was > much more straight forward to fit either the mechanical pump or a blanking > plate with collars to take up the length when a thinner plate was fitted on > a 100. > > The part numbers are > > 1 Plate 1B2386 > 1 Joint washer 1E504 > 2 Stud 2K3451 > 2 Collar 2K9631 > 2 Nuts 2K39 > 2 Spring Washer 2K1211 > > Best regards > > On Sun, 13 Dec 2020 at 21:50, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Something similar on the four cylinder block. I am sure there is >> factory cover for this opening in the block, but I did not have one with >> the block that was given to me as a basis for my engine build. David at >> British Car Specialists makes up plates just for this purpose. Unless you >> are doing a concours restoration, David's plate will work just fine. In >> fact I just installed mine. Here it is before painting. >> Mike MacLean >> >> On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 1:05:37 PM PST, Patrick & Caroline Quinn < >> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: >> >> >> Hello >> >> >> >> Attached is a photo of the first six-cylinder C26W engine fitted to an >> Austin-Healey (BN3/1) that shows the plate towards the front. >> >> >> >> The engine has since been rebuilt and is back in the car. >> >> >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> >> >> Patrick Quinn >> >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael >> Salter >> *Sent:* Monday, 14 December 2020 5:04 AM >> *To:* Harold Manifold >> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate >> >> >> >> Yes Harold, The earlier 6 cylinder engines used this blanking plate to >> cover the fuel pump hole. >> >> [image: image.png] >> >> M >> >> >> >> >> >> On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold >> wrote: >> >> Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should >> look similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point >> for a fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks like >> versions of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel >> pump. I am interested to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam >> driven pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. >> Part number appreciated if it exists. >> >> >> >> >> >> Thanks in advance.... Harold >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> >> >> Virus-free. >> www.avast.com >> >> <#m_2168866353253149172_m_7551647433230518407_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 248380 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 14 10:10:52 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 14 Dec 2020 09:10:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate In-Reply-To: References: <0AC5C595C9764E6992ABD657173DD00F@AllInOne> <003201d6d193$913e8680$b3bb9380$@tpg.com.au> <1160909580.266576.1607896098394@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8A61E622C8D34A5BA5815A170B81E846@DavidNockHP> The blanking plate is available new as a Triumph TR 6 part. Moss # 832 550 Or we have them available as well. They replacments are a thicker piece of material so they do not warp and leak. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 14, 2020 6:33 AM To: john harper Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate Yes thanks for pointing that out however, before we confuse everyone, I should add that what you have mentioned about the spacers does NOT apply to the 6 cylinder engines that used that blanking plate. Sixes just used 5/16" UNF nuts with spring washers. M On Mon., Dec. 14, 2020, 5:50 a.m. john harper, wrote: Michael May I just add to this because on face value this plate fitting arrangement appears to be a bit strange? On the block are two studs over which the plate is fitted but the long studs have collars to space out the nuts and spring washer on the studs that would be too long. The question is why not use shorter studs? The answer I believe is that when engines were being made it was not known if the engine was to be fitted to an Austin Atlantic or an AH100. Production is an assembly process and taking out long studs and fitting shorter alternatives would slow down production. It was much more straight forward to fit either the mechanical pump or a blanking plate with collars to take up the length when a thinner plate was fitted on a 100. The part numbers are 1 Plate 1B2386 1 Joint washer 1E504 2 Stud 2K3451 2 Collar 2K9631 2 Nuts 2K39 2 Spring Washer 2K1211 Best regards On Sun, 13 Dec 2020 at 21:50, Michael MacLean wrote: Something similar on the four cylinder block. I am sure there is factory cover for this opening in the block, but I did not have one with the block that was given to me as a basis for my engine build. David at British Car Specialists makes up plates just for this purpose. Unless you are doing a concours restoration, David's plate will work just fine. In fact I just installed mine. Here it is before painting. Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 1:05:37 PM PST, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello Attached is a photo of the first six-cylinder C26W engine fitted to an Austin-Healey (BN3/1) that shows the plate towards the front. The engine has since been rebuilt and is back in the car. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, 14 December 2020 5:04 AM To: Harold Manifold Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine Blanking Plate Yes Harold, The earlier 6 cylinder engines used this blanking plate to cover the fuel pump hole. M On Sun, Dec 13, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold wrote: Full disclosure the attached picture is not my engine but mine should look similar some day. On the side of the block there is a mounting point for a fuel pump just to the left of the SP casting mark. It looks like versions of this engine block used in other cars had a cam driven fuel pump. I am interested to know the size of the hole in the block for the cam driven pump and if BMC ever supplied a blanking plate to cover the hole. Part number appreciated if it exists. Thanks in advance.... Harold _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 248380 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 428363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Dec 16 02:29:54 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 09:29:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] The Whatchamacallit Plug References: <521928694.1248669.1608110994918.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <521928694.1248669.1608110994918@mail.yahoo.com> Does anyone have the threaded hex head plug that goes in this hole they might sell?? Where does this hole in the front of the block of my BN2 engine go to anyway? ? It seems my friend that built the short block for me forgot to re-install it on the engine.? Kind of hard to ask him for it as he has passed away since then.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: InkedPlug1_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1864670 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed Dec 16 19:48:09 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 16 Dec 2020 18:48:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] The Whatchamacallit Plug In-Reply-To: <521928694.1248669.1608110994918@mail.yahoo.com> References: <521928694.1248669.1608110994918.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <521928694.1248669.1608110994918@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01A557CBE0994F9EBD8A0570ED9C8470@AllInOne> Michael, I had a similar issue finding a mystery fitting. It turns out the thread was BSPP British Standard Parallel Pipe. I suspect yours is either BSPP or BSPT. Measure the hole and see if it matches any of female thread ID on this chart. Fittings are available from a number of online sources. _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 1:30 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] The Whatchamacallit Plug Does anyone have the threaded hex head plug that goes in this hole they might sell? Where does this hole in the front of the block of my BN2 engine go to anyway? It seems my friend that built the short block for me forgot to re-install it on the engine. Kind of hard to ask him for it as he has passed away since then. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Outlook.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 113691 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Dec 17 10:10:58 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2020 17:10:58 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool Message-ID: <000001d6d497$99815af0$cc8410d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> I've just dug this out one of many boxes of "Healey stuff". I've never used it. Indeed, I can't remember buying it. Can anyone tell me:- Does this thing have any application to a big Healey (MkII BT7)? Has anyone ever used one? Is it worth having? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Girling rear brake spring fitting tool (2).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4343062 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Fri Dec 18 04:49:20 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 11:49:20 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: an episode of CAR SOS to download In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000101d6d533$d37029c0$7a507d40$@alexarevel.plus.com> My daughter sent me this:- https://1337x.unblockit.dev/torrent/4362850/Car-SOS-S08E02-Healey-3000-1080P-HDTV-x264-skorpion/ It is a torrent for an episode of a fairly awful British TV programme. Most of you probably won?t have seen it before as I can?t see the series getting sales overseas, but you never know. I find the programme to be pretty cringeworthy and the tall fellow is a creep. However, it?s about a 3000 so is of some interest. Seems like the owner got right royally ripped off. ?25k for some rivets and a clapped out engine full of sand! I remain positive that all of you are 100% au fait with downloading torrents etcetc.! Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Fri Dec 18 13:47:59 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 2020 20:47:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter Message-ID: Good news, the starter is rebuilt and back on the car. When I removed it I had the brake booster out for rebuilding, so the starter came out the bottom. With the booster returned to its original position, the starter now has to go in from the top. With the oil filter mounting out, and the plastic distributor cap out of the way, if feeds in pinion up, very nicely...then as mentioned previously, spend some more quality time fixing the two 9/16" bolts, lock washers and nuts. Upon returning the oil filter unit to the car, charge it half full of new oil and a new filter and change the engine oil if necessary. That's done. At Kees suggestion, I then removed the generator and checked the brushes for wear. This item was OK and in good condition after almost 72K miles. Perry, hold onto those spare units-there is a need for armatures. Hank -----------------------------------------From: gradea1 at charter.net To: "healeyguy at aol.com" Cc: "rfbegani at gmail.com", "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Friday December 11 2020 1:50:14PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter I just "yanked" my BJ8 starter after 70,000+ miles and took it to Don' Auto Electric (he does Leno items), The car was starting slowly and in a "rolling" fashion and I had suspected a worn motor mount. No, it was the starter-armature was egg shaped and Don said it was the worst he has seen in 30 years! However, he also indicated that the Lucas item was very robust and although he said he couldn't see how the car was ever starting, it was. The bad news is that armatures, or rewound ones, are no where to be found. I finally located a used one in better shape than mine and he is rebuilding the unit. Here are pics of a 60 year old working starter. After about an hour of fiddling it will go right back on the car without removing the tunnel or engine...hint: remove the oil filter at the block connection and it makes it easier to fish. Then spend some quality time putting the two 9/16" bolts back in place. More Healey fun, but who's going anywhere anyway? Hank, healeyhelper.com ----------------------------------------- From: "healeyguy--- via Healeys" To: "rfbegani at gmail.com" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Thursday December 10 2020 6:01:06PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter Bob Can't speak to the gear reduction units. Long ago, usually because original parts were not available, old timers would try other British parts on our Austin Healeys to keep those $300-$700 cars on the road. With some work a Lucas starter from a Jaguar (in this case part number 26183B, pretty sure its from a Jag MK2, will fit in a six cylinder AH. Fit issue is between the starter case and the engine block. Some grinding or file work required. Anyway these starters are a bit more stout and will spin the AH easily. I don't have the specs on both starters but every thing seems to be bigger in the Jag unit. As stated by others a stock starter will do the job if its in good nick but how much regular maintenance gets done on a starter. Just another piece of, perhaps, useless info. Perry -----Original Message----- From: Bob Begani To: Ahealey help Sent: Thu, Dec 10, 2020 2:55 pm Subject: [Healeys] Replacing the starter with a gear reduction starter You may remember I mentioned my BJ8 would not start after a run because of overheating. the engine did turn over with a wrench, and 50 amp on the starter made it only moan. So I will replace the starter. Many of you have recommended a gear reduction starter which is available from Moss and others. What source do you recomend.? Also, I see it shows an additional bulge which must be the gears. Will it fit into my BJ8 engine compartment without having to remove the engine? As it is I will have to take out the tunnel to get to the starter bolts. Another item I should have replaced when I rebuilt the engine was the oil pump. When the engine is hot the oil pressure drops to less that 20 psi at idle. This engine was rebuilt with only 20 over and is using the same cam etc. what oil pump should i install and is the Moss pump a reasonable replacement? Regards, Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] /> Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] [7]http://autox.team.net/archive [8] /> Healeys at autox.team.net [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] /> Unsubscribe/Manage: [11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net [12] /> Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://autox.team.net/archive%3Cbr [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys%3Cbr [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net%3Cbr [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: starter on.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 302020 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: oil fiter on.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 300686 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: generator OK.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 263742 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Dec 18 23:19:51 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 06:19:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question References: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> ???? Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now.? A little confused.? When I wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the components in the engine bay.? If you look at the two pictures one is of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off.? All the connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the screw on the right.? Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw.? My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires?? The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red tracer.? This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid.? I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of this wire?? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the eyelet.? That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though.? Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: volt reg1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 132665 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Sol1.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 121372 bytes Desc: not available URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Dec 19 04:20:00 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 11:20:00 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool In-Reply-To: <000001d6d497$99815af0$cc8410d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6d497$99815af0$cc8410d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <002801d6d5f8$e5854350$b08fc9f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Nobody replied. Maybe the message got lost or noone's got one of these things. I have to say that it doesn't look like it would pull the skin off a rice pudding. But, who knows? And, actually, that's the question. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: 17 December 2020 17:11 To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool I've just dug this out one of many boxes of "Healey stuff". I've never used it. Indeed, I can't remember buying it. Can anyone tell me:- Does this thing have any application to a big Healey (MkII BT7)? Has anyone ever used one? Is it worth having? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Girling rear brake spring fitting tool (2).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4343062 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled attachment 00003.txt URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Sat Dec 19 04:37:02 2020 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 11:37:02 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question In-Reply-To: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002101d6d5fb$4578a390$d069eab0$@btinternet.com> The regulator box black (earth) wires have an eyelet because, on six cylinder cars at least, they are fixed under a screw into the bulkhead, maybe the threaded hole in the upper right of your photo. Cannot comment on starter solenoid question. Ian From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: 19 December 2020 06:20 To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now. A little confused. When I wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the components in the engine bay. If you look at the two pictures one is of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off. All the connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the screw on the right. Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw. My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires? The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red tracer. This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid. I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of this wire? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the eyelet. That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though. Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Dec 19 05:41:28 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 07:41:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question In-Reply-To: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The starter solenoid wire has an eyelet because the original Lucas solenoid had a threaded terminal with a nut for that connection. M On Sat., Dec. 19, 2020, 1:20 a.m. Michael MacLean, wrote: > Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now. A little confused. When I > wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any > problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the > components in the engine bay. If you look at the two pictures one is of a > straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off. All the > connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the > screw on the right. Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the > three wires together, then shove under the screw. My question is why is > there an eyelet connecting these three wires? The second picture (not real > clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red > tracer. This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid. > I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female > connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw > and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of > this wire? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the > eyelet. That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect > to the voltage regulator though. Just wanted to ask before I started > snipping away here. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Dec 19 07:03:23 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 14:03:23 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool In-Reply-To: <002801d6d5f8$e5854350$b08fc9f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6d497$99815af0$cc8410d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <002801d6d5f8$e5854350$b08fc9f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <23128565.2485188.1608386603261@mail.yahoo.com> Simon Got your original message but I was still trying to figure out how the tool worked so that the application might be revealed. I have a bunch of tools that are marked as being made by or for Girling. One group of the tools came in a nice tool bag much like the original AH tool kits. The kit was intended to allow the user to bend brake tubing into the correct shape however it proved to be not so simple. I wrote to Girling and asked for any info or instructions they may have on the use of the tool kit. Answer from them is "No, user is on their own regarding use of these tools.". Suspect most of these tools are more than 50 years old. Perry -----Original Message----- From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com To: 'Healeys' Sent: Sat, Dec 19, 2020 6:20 am Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool Nobody replied. Maybe the message got lost or noone?s got one of these things. I have to say that it doesn?t look like it would pull the skin off a rice pudding. But, who knows? And, actually, that?s the question. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: 17 December 2020 17:11 To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool I?ve just dug this out one of many boxes of ?Healey stuff?. I?ve never used it. Indeed, I can?t remember buying it. Can anyone tell me:- Does this thing have any application to a big Healey (MkII BT7)? Has anyone ever used one? Is it worth having? Thanks, Simon ? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Dec 19 07:18:40 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 15:18:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool In-Reply-To: <23128565.2485188.1608386603261@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000001d6d497$99815af0$cc8410d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <002801d6d5f8$e5854350$b08fc9f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <23128565.2485188.1608386603261@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <48328155-a590-3cc6-4f97-504bb98fcf09@chello.nl> Simon, You may perhaps find an explanation in this Girling manual: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Complete-Girling-Dunlop-Service-Manual-Cylinders-Servos-Calipers/323602361719?hash=item4b58342d77:g:xB0AAOSwW~JcFktA If not it will be a source of information on most other Girling equipment. I have used a similar manual quite often in the past. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-12-2020 om 15:03 schreef healeyguy--- via Healeys: > Simon > Got your original message but I was still trying to figure out how the tool worked so that the application might be revealed. > I have a bunch of tools that are marked as being made by or for Girling. One group of the tools came in a nice tool bag much like the original AH tool kits. The kit was intended to allow the user to bend brake tubing into the correct shape however it proved to be not so simple. I wrote to Girling and asked for any info or instructions they may have on the use of the tool kit. Answer from them is "No, user is on their own regarding use of these tools.". Suspect most of these tools are more than 50 years old. > Perry > > -----Original Message----- > From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > To: 'Healeys' > Sent: Sat, Dec 19, 2020 6:20 am > Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool > > Nobody replied. Maybe the message got lost or noone?s got one of these things. > I have to say that it doesn?t look like it would pull the skin off a rice pudding. But, who knows? And, actually, that?s the question. > Simon > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > Sent: 17 December 2020 17:11 > To: 'Healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool > I?ve just dug this out one of many boxes of ?Healey stuff?. I?ve never used it. Indeed, I can?t remember buying it. > Can anyone tell me:- > Does this thing have any application to a big Healey (MkII BT7)? > Has anyone ever used one? > Is it worth having? > Thanks, > Simon > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From ah100tech at gmail.com Sat Dec 19 07:19:14 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 14:19:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question In-Reply-To: References: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Micheal You are correct the black earth wires need to go to the bulkhead on a screw hole nearby. There also need to be a black earth wire to the right-hand terminal on the control box. This should be part of the loom but if not you will need to make up a short black wire In reply to your second point, your starter solenoid has Lucar (push on) connectors so it is not an original. Lucars did not come into use until 100 productions ceased. To be authentic you will have to find a later solenoid. As a compromise, you could make up a short fully *insulated* adaptor cable with an eye and a short nut and bolt with a Lucar on the other end Then you could go back to originality with an older starter solenoid if you could find one. I believe that you can just remove the Lucar on the main terminal (on the right) Regards On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 at 12:42, Michael Salter wrote: > The starter solenoid wire has an eyelet because the original Lucas > solenoid had a threaded terminal with a nut for that connection. > > M > > On Sat., Dec. 19, 2020, 1:20 a.m. Michael MacLean, < > rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote: > >> Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now. A little confused. When I >> wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any >> problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the >> components in the engine bay. If you look at the two pictures one is of a >> straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off. All the >> connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the >> screw on the right. Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the >> three wires together, then shove under the screw. My question is why is >> there an eyelet connecting these three wires? The second picture (not real >> clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red >> tracer. This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid. >> I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female >> connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw >> and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of >> this wire? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the >> eyelet. That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect >> to the voltage regulator though. Just wanted to ask before I started >> snipping away here. >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cynicbass at gmail.com Sat Dec 19 09:42:46 2020 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (cynicbass) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 16:42:46 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question In-Reply-To: <1743211016.2479609.1608358791165@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5fde2d8b.1c69fb81.d2517.7c31@mx.google.com> Mike,Here is an original BN2 solenoid. They shouldn't be too hard to find.RichardSent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. -------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean Date: 12/19/20 06:19 (GMT+00:00) To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question ???? Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now.? A little confused.? When I wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the components in the engine bay.? If you look at the two pictures one is of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off.? All the connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the screw on the right.? Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw.? My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires?? The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red tracer.? This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid.? I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of this wire?? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the eyelet.? That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though.? Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201219_163617_resized.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 917018 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Dec 19 10:18:02 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 18:18:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question In-Reply-To: <5fde2d8b.1c69fb81.d2517.7c31@mx.google.com> References: <5fde2d8b.1c69fb81.d2517.7c31@mx.google.com> Message-ID: About GBP20 on eBay.co.uk, new, e.g. eBay item number: 231811821832 Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-12-2020 om 17:42 schreef cynicbass: > Mike, > > Here is an original BN2 solenoid. They shouldn't be too hard to find. > > Richard > > > > Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Michael MacLean > Date: 12/19/20 06:19 (GMT+00:00) > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question > > ???? Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now.? A little confused.? When I > wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any > problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the > components in the engine bay.? If you look at the two pictures one is > of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off.? > All the connections have been made except the three black wires that > go to the screw on the right.? Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet > and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw.? My > question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires?? The > second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the > white wire with the red tracer.? This wire goes to the blade connector > at the top of the solenoid.? I can see that I have to cut this eyelet > off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection > (or drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the > eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of this wire?? Did the > original solenoid have a screw connection for the eyelet.? That would > not be the case for the three black wires that connect to the voltage > regulator though.? Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sat Dec 19 10:37:04 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 17:37:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question Message-ID: <530d8ee1d54013093c6d3305ae99c47029681ad6@webmail> Michael-the black ground wires in eyelet goes to to one of the holdown screws for the regulator-shown here-its one of the photos I sent you on disc. Depends who made your harness and if you have an early or late solenoid for the spade connector-early ones were screw terminals. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" To: "Healeys" Cc: Sent: Friday December 18 2020 10:21:34PM Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now. A little confused. When I wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the components in the engine bay. If you look at the two pictures one is of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off. All the connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the screw on the right. Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw. My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires? The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red tracer. This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid. I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of this wire? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the eyelet. That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though. Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: airvent final.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 237116 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: airvent bracket.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 253951 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat Dec 19 16:43:21 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 12:43:21 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool In-Reply-To: <002801d6d5f8$e5854350$b08fc9f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6d497$99815af0$cc8410d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <002801d6d5f8$e5854350$b08fc9f0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000001d6d660$bdaec3c0$390c4b40$@xtra.co.nz> Simon, It appears to be for a Landy Defender, which is probably why none of us Healeyophiles recognised it. See eBay UK listing . . . I still cannot figure out the logic of how it might work. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Lucas-Girling-brake-tools-Defender-landrover-Shoe -spring-tool-64947083-/323177459801 Mark Ardmore, NZ From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Sunday, 20 December 2020 12:20 a.m. To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] FW: Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool Nobody replied. Maybe the message got lost or noone's got one of these things. I have to say that it doesn't look like it would pull the skin off a rice pudding. But, who knows? And, actually, that's the question. Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: 17 December 2020 17:11 To: 'Healeys' > Subject: [Healeys] Girling Rear Brake Spring Fitting Tool I've just dug this out one of many boxes of "Healey stuff". I've never used it. Indeed, I can't remember buying it. Can anyone tell me:- Does this thing have any application to a big Healey (MkII BT7)? Has anyone ever used one? Is it worth having? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Dec 19 19:51:24 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 19 Dec 2020 18:51:24 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks Message-ID: <2fd86851-3994-177c-1820-2dfc7f0c3348@comcast.net> Anybody know if 100M shock absorbers are different than regular BN1/2s? I think the sway bar was 'uprated,' but don't know about the shocks. Bob From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Dec 19 20:04:00 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 03:04:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks In-Reply-To: <2fd86851-3994-177c-1820-2dfc7f0c3348@comcast.net> References: <2fd86851-3994-177c-1820-2dfc7f0c3348@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob, In the leaflets issued about the 100M, it says that there is Special setting Front Shock Absorbers. Nothing else I could find. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: December 19, 2020 8:53 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks Anybody know if 100M shock absorbers are different than regular BN1/2s? I think the sway bar was 'uprated,' but don't know about the shocks. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=XXt7CpbHlAzTaycF3KpCcGBPXbV0fRpMll7biBwoGz0%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=YYgFV2G%2BmfipdKzcKKchBwVkbmOTdNVwrfPis0s8lHo%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=fn5kqkOasPCgIpFpLt0kpRECJjcsipoaFxOPwvyYRJc%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=sZMm%2FaeIcEic0vHZ%2Feis4%2FXuHfX2mfC%2ByrfQbp9l2UM%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=yPItboRS%2Fcd00NV2h3pHMQlwibZdsNhNivNoixiJW50%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 20 02:11:15 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 09:11:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys.? This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket.? It came without the nuts needed for the ends.? I can't figure out what type of threads these are.? I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it.? Problem is both of those nuts are too loose.? When I try to tighten the large thread on the front engine plate it will not tighten up.? It gets almost tight then pops loose and spins.? The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so it must be the wrong nut.? Same for the other end.? A UNF nut will not go more than a couple of turns then stops.? I even tried running a metric die over the threads and no dice.? I am confused.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Sun Dec 20 03:12:03 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 10:12:03 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. Rgds On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean wrote: > The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys. This > is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket. It came without the > nuts needed for the ends. I can't figure out what type of threads these > are. I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it. Problem is both > of those nuts are too loose. When I try to tighten the large thread on the > front engine plate it will not tighten up. It gets almost tight then pops > loose and spins. The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so it must be > the wrong nut. Same for the other end. A UNF nut will not go more than a > couple of turns then stops. I even tried running a metric die over the > threads and no dice. I am confused. > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Dec 20 03:50:01 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 11:50:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm when it is shoddily cut. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper: > Mike > > Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is > given to?detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but > they know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would > not have supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. > > Rgds > > On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from > Ahead4Healeys.? This is the pillar for the generator adjusting > bracket.? It came without the nuts needed for the ends.? I can't > figure out what type of threads these are.? I bought a 1/2" BSF > nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it.? Problem is both of those nuts are > too loose.? When I try to tighten the large thread on the front > engine plate it will not tighten up.? It gets almost tight then > pops loose and spins.? The threads on the pillar are not damaged, > so it must be the wrong nut.? Same for the other end.? A UNF nut > will not go more than a couple of turns then stops.? I even tried > running a metric die over the threads and no dice.? I am confused. > Mike MacLean > > > > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Dec 20 07:41:20 2020 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 09:41:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks In-Reply-To: References: <2fd86851-3994-177c-1820-2dfc7f0c3348@comcast.net> Message-ID: I'm by no means an M expert but I have a vague recollection that they were fitted with "RXP" shocks, same as the 100S. I may be completely wrong, just something from the dusty corners of my mind. Happy and Healthy Healeydays, Rick Neville On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 10:07 PM Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Bob, > > In the leaflets issued about the 100M, it says that there is Special > setting Front Shock Absorbers. Nothing else I could find. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Bob Spidell > *Sent: *December 19, 2020 8:53 PM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] 100M Shocks > > > > Anybody know if 100M shock absorbers are different than regular BN1/2s? > I think the sway bar was 'uprated,' but don't know about the shocks. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=XXt7CpbHlAzTaycF3KpCcGBPXbV0fRpMll7biBwoGz0%3D&reserved=0 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=YYgFV2G%2BmfipdKzcKKchBwVkbmOTdNVwrfPis0s8lHo%3D&reserved=0 > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=fn5kqkOasPCgIpFpLt0kpRECJjcsipoaFxOPwvyYRJc%3D&reserved=0 > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=sZMm%2FaeIcEic0vHZ%2Feis4%2FXuHfX2mfC%2ByrfQbp9l2UM%3D&reserved=0 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=yPItboRS%2Fcd00NV2h3pHMQlwibZdsNhNivNoixiJW50%3D&reserved=0 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Dec 20 10:41:50 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 09:41:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> Michael, After learning from several of my mistakes when I mismatched fasteners on my 1960 BT7 I always measure twice and assemble once. I have an original of the part in the picture. The big end is 20 TPI with a major diameter that matches a 7/16 UNF. A 7/16 - 20 UNF nut fits. The small end is 24 TPI and the closest major diameter would be a 3/8 UNF but the diameter is undersized however a 3/8 - 24 UNF nut does fit. To help identify the tread type I measure the TPI and the major diameter and the go to this website to see what fits. Knowing the tread pitch helps to narrow down the possibilities. https://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-thread-data-charts.html I trust this helps.... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 2:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread? If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm when it is shoddily cut. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper: Mike Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. Rgds On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean wrote: The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys. This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket. It came without the nuts needed for the ends. I can't figure out what type of threads these are. I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it. Problem is both of those nuts are too loose. When I try to tighten the large thread on the front engine plate it will not tighten up. It gets almost tight then pops loose and spins. The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so it must be the wrong nut. Same for the other end. A UNF nut will not go more than a couple of turns then stops. I even tried running a metric die over the threads and no dice. I am confused. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 20 12:30:07 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 14:30:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> Message-ID: Absolutely agree Harold however, just to complicate issues with Mike's generator pillar his is for a 100 and the threads are BSF. You can see the difference between the 6 cylinder version (top) and the 4 cylinder (bottom) here: [image: image.png] I certainly share Mike's frustration. Truly, how much harder is it to make the part correctly with the correct BSF threads than to make it wrong. M On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Michael, > > After learning from several of my mistakes when I mismatched fasteners on > my 1960 BT7 I always measure twice and assemble once. I have an original of > the part in the picture. The big end is 20 TPI with a major diameter that > matches a 7/16 UNF. A 7/16 - 20 UNF nut fits. The small end is 24 TPI and > the closest major diameter would be a 3/8 UNF but the diameter is > undersized however a 3/8 - 24 UNF nut does fit. > > To help identify the tread type I measure the TPI and the major diameter > and the go to this website to see what fits. Knowing the tread pitch helps > to narrow down the possibilities. > > https://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-thread-data-charts.html > > I trust this helps.... Harold > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Kees > Oudesluijs > *Sent:* Sunday, December 20, 2020 2:50 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] What Thread? > > If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case > the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm > when it is shoddily cut. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper: > > Mike > > Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is > given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they > know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have > supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. > > Rgds > > On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys. >> This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket. It came without >> the nuts needed for the ends. I can't figure out what type of threads >> these are. I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it. Problem is >> both of those nuts are too loose. When I try to tighten the large thread >> on the front engine plate it will not tighten up. It gets almost tight >> then pops loose and spins. The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so >> it must be the wrong nut. Same for the other end. A UNF nut will not go >> more than a couple of turns then stops. I even tried running a metric die >> over the threads and no dice. I am confused. >> Mike MacLean >> >> >> >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 332875 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 20 12:39:19 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 19:39:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> Message-ID: <46656472.2802239.1608493159150@mail.yahoo.com> Well, I don't know about the original part, but I tried to run a 7/16-20 UNF thread chaser die over the big end and it was no go.? It deformed the threads within a few turns.? I don't think much of modern manufacturing methods in this case.? So, now I'm looking for an original threaded pillar.? None of the usual suspects sell them.? No telling who made the one I bought from Cape International.? I am beginning to see why my late Healey restorer friend Tom Rock always said he could do three BJ8 cars in the time it took to restore just one 100-4.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 9:45 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Dec 20 13:31:14 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 20:31:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne>, Message-ID: It is the same story all over, there has to be a demand for the part, then make it in numbers that will sell at a price the customers are prepared to pay. Most machined shop will make you one of these and make it exactly like the old ones but expect to pay in excess of $150.00. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: December 20, 2020 1:37 PM To: Harold Manifold Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread? Absolutely agree Harold however, just to complicate issues with Mike's generator pillar his is for a 100 and the threads are BSF. You can see the difference between the 6 cylinder version (top) and the 4 cylinder (bottom) here: [cid:ii_kixir74p1] I certainly share Mike's frustration. Truly, how much harder is it to make the part correctly with the correct BSF threads than to make it wrong. M On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 12:46 PM Harold Manifold > wrote: Michael, After learning from several of my mistakes when I mismatched fasteners on my 1960 BT7 I always measure twice and assemble once. I have an original of the part in the picture. The big end is 20 TPI with a major diameter that matches a 7/16 UNF. A 7/16 - 20 UNF nut fits. The small end is 24 TPI and the closest major diameter would be a 3/8 UNF but the diameter is undersized however a 3/8 - 24 UNF nut does fit. To help identify the tread type I measure the TPI and the major diameter and the go to this website to see what fits. Knowing the tread pitch helps to narrow down the possibilities. https://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-thread-data-charts.html I trust this helps.... Harold From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 2:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread? If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm when it is shoddily cut. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper: Mike Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. Rgds On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean > wrote: The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys. This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket. It came without the nuts needed for the ends. I can't figure out what type of threads these are. I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it. Problem is both of those nuts are too loose. When I try to tighten the large thread on the front engine plate it will not tighten up. It gets almost tight then pops loose and spins. The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so it must be the wrong nut. Same for the other end. A UNF nut will not go more than a couple of turns then stops. I even tried running a metric die over the threads and no dice. I am confused. Mike MacLean [cid:1768196fc97aeaef6fe1] Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: 20201220_005804.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 332875 bytes Desc: image.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DF7EEA36D79846CC9302039D9B0D5D2C.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: DF7EEA36D79846CC9302039D9B0D5D2C.png URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 20 13:44:46 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 12:44:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiring Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <687FD569-5AF2-4622-927C-13FBB30295D7@sbcglobal.net> The white red wire has an Eyelet to attach? to the original style starter solenoid. The single blAck wire attaches to the E terminal on the solenoid. And the eyelet with the two black wires attaches to the firewall screw next to the regulator David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 19, 2020, at 6:24 AM, john harper wrote: > > ? > Micheal > > You are correct the black earth wires need to go to the bulkhead on a screw hole nearby. There also need to be a black earth wire to the right-hand terminal on the control box. This should be part of the loom but if not you will need to make up a short black wire > > In reply to your second point, your starter solenoid has Lucar (push on) connectors so it is not an original. Lucars did not come into use until 100 productions ceased. To be authentic you will have to find a later solenoid. As a compromise, you could make up a short fully insulated adaptor cable with an eye and a short nut and bolt with a Lucar on the other end Then you could go back to originality with an older starter solenoid if you could find one. I believe that you can just remove the Lucar on the main terminal (on the right) > > Regards > >> On Sat, 19 Dec 2020 at 12:42, Michael Salter wrote: >> The starter solenoid wire has an eyelet because the original Lucas solenoid had a threaded terminal with a nut for that connection. >> >> M >> >>> On Sat., Dec. 19, 2020, 1:20 a.m. Michael MacLean, wrote: >>> Wiring the engine bay in my BN2 now. A little confused. When I wired the Bugeye some 20 years ago I don't seem to remember having any problems matching wiring end terminals with the connections to the components in the engine bay. If you look at the two pictures one is of a straight on shot of the voltage regulator with the cover off. All the connections have been made except the three black wires that go to the screw on the right. Easy enough to just cut off the eyelet and twist the three wires together, then shove under the screw. My question is why is there an eyelet connecting these three wires? The second picture (not real clear) shows another eyelet on the end of the white wire with the red tracer. This wire goes to the blade connector at the top of the solenoid. I can see that I have to cut this eyelet off also and crimp/solder a female connector for the blade connection (or drill out that hole and put a screw and nut in there for the eyelet), but why is there an eyelet on the end of this wire? Did the original solenoid have a screw connection for the eyelet. That would not be the case for the three black wires that connect to the voltage regulator though. Just wanted to ask before I started snipping away here. >>> Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lgalper1 at cox.net Sun Dec 20 14:17:52 2020 From: lgalper1 at cox.net (Lou G) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 13:17:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? Message-ID: <19B9FCDC-390D-4218-A30E-3DBEC3EC08D3@cox.net> ?I believe the threaded bolt on the generator front end plate is whitworth Maybe the stud too. Unlikely that the vendor would throw Metric threads into the mix. Better ask the vendor to clarify. Lou Bn1 From ah100tech at gmail.com Sun Dec 20 15:19:22 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 22:19:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> Message-ID: Harold I believe that you will find that both should be BSF On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 17:48, Harold Manifold wrote: > Michael, > > After learning from several of my mistakes when I mismatched fasteners on > my 1960 BT7 I always measure twice and assemble once. I have an original of > the part in the picture. The big end is 20 TPI with a major diameter that > matches a 7/16 UNF. A 7/16 - 20 UNF nut fits. The small end is 24 TPI and > the closest major diameter would be a 3/8 UNF but the diameter is > undersized however a 3/8 - 24 UNF nut does fit. > > To help identify the tread type I measure the TPI and the major diameter > and the go to this website to see what fits. Knowing the tread pitch helps > to narrow down the possibilities. > > https://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-thread-data-charts.html > > I trust this helps.... Harold > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Kees > Oudesluijs > *Sent:* Sunday, December 20, 2020 2:50 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] What Thread? > > If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case > the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm > when it is shoddily cut. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper: > > Mike > > Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is > given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they > know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have > supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. > > Rgds > > On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys. >> This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket. It came without >> the nuts needed for the ends. I can't figure out what type of threads >> these are. I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it. Problem is >> both of those nuts are too loose. When I try to tighten the large thread >> on the front engine plate it will not tighten up. It gets almost tight >> then pops loose and spins. The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so >> it must be the wrong nut. Same for the other end. A UNF nut will not go >> more than a couple of turns then stops. I even tried running a metric die >> over the threads and no dice. I am confused. >> Mike MacLean >> >> >> >> >> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20201220_005804.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2403363 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Dec 20 16:15:19 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 18:15:19 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> Message-ID: <014a01d6d725$fc2ce210$f486a630$@sympatico.ca> I can?t speak to the thread as I have never checked it and don?t have access to it to check right now, but I do know that nut on the adjusting end of the generator bracket is one of the few nuts on my BT7 where only a ?whitworth? wrench will properly fit, so at I am sure that at least the ?nut end? of the part will be BSF threads. I agree with others that when working on Brit stuff from before the mid 60s, and for bikes before the 70s, having thread gauges (imperial, BA and metric) on hand, and a table showing all the tpi for the various threading systems is essential to understanding the occasional odd-ball fastener that gets thrown at us. If you think early Healeys are bad, you should try the motorcycles. Both BSA and Velocette ( the makes I am somewhat familiar with) not only made some of their own threads which are unique, but used weird thread systems such as ?Admiralty Fine thread?, in addition to BSF, BSW, BA, BSP and BSPP! For laughs, the fasteners on the M.G. XPAG engine all have whitworth heads, but metric threads, as it was based on a French Hotchkiss motor that M.G. had acquired, but they made the heads all whitworth so British mechanics would not all have to buy new sets of spanners! That threw me for a while after buying my first old M.G. I attached an article that provides some explanation of thread types FYI. Cheers, Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of john harper Sent: December 20, 2020 5:19 PM To: Harold Manifold Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread? Harold I believe that you will find that both should be BSF On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 17:48, Harold Manifold > wrote: Michael, After learning from several of my mistakes when I mismatched fasteners on my 1960 BT7 I always measure twice and assemble once. I have an original of the part in the picture. The big end is 20 TPI with a major diameter that matches a 7/16 UNF. A 7/16 - 20 UNF nut fits. The small end is 24 TPI and the closest major diameter would be a 3/8 UNF but the diameter is undersized however a 3/8 - 24 UNF nut does fit. To help identify the tread type I measure the TPI and the major diameter and the go to this website to see what fits. Knowing the tread pitch helps to narrow down the possibilities. https://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-thread-data-charts.html I trust this helps.... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 2:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread? If UNF7/16 is just to large it may be metric, probably M10. In that case the stud's outside diameter should be just shy of 10,0mm or at most 10,0mm when it is shoddily cut. Kees Oudesluijs Op 20-12-2020 om 11:12 schreef john harper: Mike Both treads should be BSF. The problem is that not enough attention is given to detail. Suppliers cannot bother to get things correct but they know they have used an incorrect thread or otherwise, they would not have supplied the nuts. The treads are most likely metric. Rgds On Sun, 20 Dec 2020 at 09:19, Michael MacLean > wrote: The threaded pillar in the picture was purchased from Ahead4Healeys. This is the pillar for the generator adjusting bracket. It came without the nuts needed for the ends. I can't figure out what type of threads these are. I bought a 1/2" BSF nut and a 7/16 BSF nut for it. Problem is both of those nuts are too loose. When I try to tighten the large thread on the front engine plate it will not tighten up. It gets almost tight then pops loose and spins. The threads on the pillar are not damaged, so it must be the wrong nut. Same for the other end. A UNF nut will not go more than a couple of turns then stops. I even tried running a metric die over the threads and no dice. I am confused. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 649585 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: History of Whitworth.doc Type: application/msword Size: 27136 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Dec 20 17:10:57 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 16:10:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What Thread? In-Reply-To: <46656472.2802239.1608493159150@mail.yahoo.com> References: <487800178.2676480.1608455475651.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <487800178.2676480.1608455475651@mail.yahoo.com> <33F54ED06A704FE08EC1B79DF027C467@AllInOne> <46656472.2802239.1608493159150@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael, I may have led you astray. The part I measured was the one in the upper picture from Michael Salter. Who knew there were two versions! Sorry about that... Harold _____ From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 11:39 AM To: manifold at telus.net; Harold Manifold; 'Kees Oudesluijs'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] What Thread? Well, I don't know about the original part, but I tried to run a 7/16-20 UNF thread chaser die over the big end and it was no go. It deformed the threads within a few turns. I don't think much of modern manufacturing methods in this case. So, now I'm looking for an original threaded pillar. None of the usual suspects sell them. No telling who made the one I bought from Cape International. I am beginning to see why my late Healey restorer friend Tom Rock always said he could do three BJ8 cars in the time it took to restore just one 100-4. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sun, Dec 20, 2020 at 9:45 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sun Dec 20 18:10:47 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 20:10:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover Message-ID: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> Listers- Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? job or fairly straight forward process? Thank you for your direction. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Dec 20 18:28:50 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 20 Dec 2020 17:28:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover In-Reply-To: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> References: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> Message-ID: There's several for sale on eBay; here's the first of several that came up when I searched "Austin-Healey 3000 transmission for sale." The price isn't unreasonable; you could part it out and make a profit: https://www.ebay.com/i/193242855946?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=193242855946&targetid=1068323850470&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9032280&poi=&campaignid=11758020206&mkgroupid=111348621262&rlsatarget=pla-1068323850470&abcId=9300462&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAifz-BRDjARIsAEElyGI0sXxtFoGjLqb4YZL1eLHbXXxAUT-FvqUdB-rhSGrdUeI-yCw1RrwaAitjEALw_wcB I spent $300/ea for a pan and cover (and was glad to get them). I think the cases are cast iron, which can be welded but has to be done 'just so;' involving pre-heating and other measures. I'd always be nervous about a welded case. Bob On 12/20/2020 5:10 PM, R. Lindsay wrote: > Listers- > > Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? job or fairly straight forward process? > > Thank you for your direction. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 20 23:31:31 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 06:31:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Gauge line Adapter References: <781276911.2891303.1608532291709.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <781276911.2891303.1608532291709@mail.yahoo.com> Went to install the flex line and adapter to the right side of the engine on the stand tonight.? Found out the screw in adapter that goes into the block is incorrect.? Apparently I have the BN4 and up fitting.? I think.? The flex line side of the fitting in the block is too small for the flex line female fitting.? Looking at Moss, they do not list one for the BN1/2.? Anyone know who sells the correct fitting?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Mon Dec 21 03:35:14 2020 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 10:35:14 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover In-Reply-To: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> References: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> Message-ID: <002001d6d784$f78dd250$e6a976f0$@btinternet.com> Denis Welch sells a new centre change gearbox cover (bare) for ?495. It is aluminium, and would probably distort if it could be welded, and then would require machining to get it back to shape. Not worth the effort. Either a gearbox for $1000 (Bob Spidell response) or a cover for ?495 would be better. Ian -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: 21 December 2020 01:11 To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover Listers- Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? job or fairly straight forward process? Thank you for your direction. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rianhey at btinternet.com From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 21 05:44:49 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 07:44:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Gauge line Adapter In-Reply-To: <781276911.2891303.1608532291709@mail.yahoo.com> References: <781276911.2891303.1608532291709.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <781276911.2891303.1608532291709@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/303508915738 On Mon., Dec. 21, 2020, 1:31 a.m. Michael MacLean, wrote: > Went to install the flex line and adapter to the right side of the engine > on the stand tonight. Found out the screw in adapter that goes into the > block is incorrect. Apparently I have the BN4 and up fitting. I think. > The flex line side of the fitting in the block is too small for the flex > line female fitting. Looking at Moss, they do not list one for the BN1/2. > Anyone know who sells the correct fitting? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 21 06:51:43 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 08:51:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover In-Reply-To: <002001d6d784$f78dd250$e6a976f0$@btinternet.com> References: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> <002001d6d784$f78dd250$e6a976f0$@btinternet.com> Message-ID: Actually the main case is cast iron. But still not easy to weld. M On Mon., Dec. 21, 2020, 5:35 a.m. Ian Hey via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Denis Welch sells a new centre change gearbox cover (bare) for ?495. > > It is aluminium, and would probably distort if it could be welded, and > then would require machining to get it back to shape. Not worth the effort. > > Either a gearbox for $1000 (Bob Spidell response) or a cover for ?495 > would be better. > > Ian > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys On Behalf Of R. Lindsay > Sent: 21 December 2020 01:11 > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover > > Listers- > > Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a > crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld > the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? > job or fairly straight forward process? > > Thank you for your direction. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rianhey at btinternet.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 21 10:31:39 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 09:31:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover In-Reply-To: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> References: <6B0CB488-A288-436B-9EDB-CA074BE49235@gmail.com> Message-ID: <99395F42F41644F8BAEC50661A8F616D@DavidNockHP> We have some used transmission cases if you need one, There are two different cases depending on the year of the car. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 5:10 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover Listers- Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? job or fairly straight forward process? Thank you for your direction. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Dec 21 10:32:42 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 09:32:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Gauge line Adapter In-Reply-To: References: <781276911.2891303.1608532291709.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <781276911.2891303.1608532291709@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes we have them in stock David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 21, 2020 4:44 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Gauge line Adapter https://www.ebay.ca/itm/303508915738 On Mon., Dec. 21, 2020, 1:31 a.m. Michael MacLean, wrote: Went to install the flex line and adapter to the right side of the engine on the stand tonight. Found out the screw in adapter that goes into the block is incorrect. Apparently I have the BN4 and up fitting. I think. The flex line side of the fitting in the block is too small for the flex line female fitting. Looking at Moss, they do not list one for the BN1/2. Anyone know who sells the correct fitting? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Mon Dec 21 11:06:18 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 13:06:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover In-Reply-To: <99395F42F41644F8BAEC50661A8F616D@DavidNockHP> References: <99395F42F41644F8BAEC50661A8F616D@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: All I need is the top cover of the case. Do you have just that piece and how much would you charge for one in good condition? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 21, 2020, at 12:31 PM, David Nock BCS wrote: > > ?We have some used transmission cases if you need one, There are two different cases depending on the year of the car. > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay > Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 5:10 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover > > Listers- > > Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? job or fairly straight forward process? > > Thank you for your direction. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 21 11:23:11 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 10:23:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover In-Reply-To: References: <99395F42F41644F8BAEC50661A8F616D@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <8E7A5F154C1849FBB75728D1108C7A31@DavidNockHP> So you are looking for the alloy selector housing not the cast iron transmission case. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay Sent: Monday, December 21, 2020 10:06 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover All I need is the top cover of the case. Do you have just that piece and how much would you charge for one in good condition? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 21, 2020, at 12:31 PM, David Nock BCS > wrote: > > ?We have some used transmission cases if you need one, There are two > different cases depending on the year of the car. > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay > Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2020 5:10 PM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Center Shift Transmission Cover > > Listers- > > Where would you suggest I can buy a transmission for my BJ8? I have a > crack in my current and would like to replace it. Is it possible to weld > the crack? If so, does someone have a welding plan? Is this a ?tricky? > job or fairly straight forward process? > > Thank you for your direction. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Dec 21 22:46:58 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 05:46:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks Message-ID: Folks-I did some research about the items in the Lemans Kits. The kit did not contain any upgraded shocks. However, if you had the kit installed at the Donald Healey Motor works, they could add stiffer shocks 1B8735 (which later became standard on cars from Chassis # 153855 on) for an additional charge. There was a stiffer roll bar on the cars 7H1721 (3/4" instead of stock 1/2", I believe) You could also request stiffer rear springs, for a price, 1B8929 (standard after Chassis 152233) Basic kits could always be upgraded depending on what degree of racing you planned to do. There were many additional gear and overdrive combination options. Here is a bit of their encouraging advertising. This is from Piggott's book "100 in Detail". Hank -----------------------------------------From: "HealeyRick" To: "Jean Caron" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Sunday December 20 2020 6:42:25AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Shocks I'm by no means an M expert but I have a vague recollection that they were fitted with "RXP" shocks, same as the 100S. I may be completely wrong, just something from the dusty corners of my mind. Happy and Healthy Healeydays, Rick Neville On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 10:07 PM Jean Caron wrote: Bob, In the leaflets issued about the 100M, it says that there is Special setting Front Shock Absorbers. Nothing else I could find. Jean Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10 FROM: Bob Spidell SENT: December 19, 2020 8:53 PM TO: Healeys SUBJECT: [Healeys] 100M Shocks Anybody know if 100M shock absorbers are different than regular BN1/2s? I think the sway bar was 'uprated,' but don't know about the shocks. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [2]https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.htmldata=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=XXt7CpbHlAzTaycF3KpCcGBPXbV0fRpMll7biBwoGz0%3Dreserved=0 [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4]https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeysdata=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000sdata=YYgFV2G%2BmfipdKzcKKchBwVkbmOTdNVwrfPis0s8lHo%3Dreserved=0 [5] 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URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: scan0031.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 560417 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Mon Dec 21 23:00:21 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 06:00:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I also found out in an article from Rick Regan many years ago that the 100M package had Stiffer Shock Absorber valves, part # 17H65. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: gradea1 at charter.net Sent: December 21, 2020 11:47 PM To: 'HealeyRick' Cc: 'Jean Caron'; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Shocks Folks-I did some research about the items in the Lemans Kits. The kit did not contain any upgraded shocks. However, if you had the kit installed at the Donald Healey Motor works, they could add stiffer shocks 1B8735 (which later became standard on cars from Chassis # 153855 on) for an additional charge. There was a stiffer roll bar on the cars 7H1721 (3/4" instead of stock 1/2", I believe) You could also request stiffer rear springs, for a price, 1B8929 (standard after Chassis 152233) Basic kits could always be upgraded depending on what degree of racing you planned to do. There were many additional gear and overdrive combination options. Here is a bit of their encouraging advertising. This is from Piggott's book "100 in Detail". Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "HealeyRick" To: "Jean Caron" Cc: "Healeys" Sent: Sunday December 20 2020 6:42:25AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Shocks I'm by no means an M expert but I have a vague recollection that they were fitted with "RXP" shocks, same as the 100S. I may be completely wrong, just something from the dusty corners of my mind. Happy and Healthy Healeydays, Rick Neville On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 10:07 PM Jean Caron wrote: Bob, In the leaflets issued about the 100M, it says that there is Special setting Front Shock Absorbers. Nothing else I could find. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: December 19, 2020 8:53 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks Anybody know if 100M shock absorbers are different than regular BN1/2s? I think the sway bar was 'uprated,' but don't know about the shocks. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=XXt7CpbHlAzTaycF3KpCcGBPXbV0fRpMll7biBwoGz0%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255961760%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=YYgFV2G%2BmfipdKzcKKchBwVkbmOTdNVwrfPis0s8lHo%3D&reserved=0 https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=fn5kqkOasPCgIpFpLt0kpRECJjcsipoaFxOPwvyYRJc%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=sZMm%2FaeIcEic0vHZ%2Feis4%2FXuHfX2mfC%2ByrfQbp9l2UM%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=04%7C01%7C%7Cd0933b2b942b47474eb108d8a4927738%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637440296255966752%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=yPItboRS%2Fcd00NV2h3pHMQlwibZdsNhNivNoixiJW50%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Dec 21 23:01:37 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 21 Dec 2020 22:01:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100M Shocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Jean. AFAIK, my car was probably a 'stock' 100M that was shipped to the 'States. I'll check the roll bar diameter tomorrow. I can't imagine anyone would want a Healey with a stiffer suspension, but I guess it could make a difference to racers. Here's a tip I got today from Tom Monaco: The USPS will ship a 'large box' (12x12x6) Priority Mail package up to 70lbs for a fixed cost with 1-3 day delivery (probably a bit optimistic these days). A couple months ago I shipped a single front shock to World Wide via UPS; the cost was something over $40, and it took over a week to get to WI. Today, I picked up a couple large boxes from the PO--which had a line of at least 30 people waiting to ship--packed TWO front shocks in it, entered all the info online, printed a label and paid with PayPal. The cost was $23.75, and the package will be picked up from my front porch tomorrow (no trip to the PO!). Bob On 12/21/2020 9:46 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > Folks-I did some research about the items in the Lemans Kits. The kit > did not contain any upgraded shocks. However, if you had the kit > installed at the Donald Healey Motor works, they could add stiffer > shocks 1B8735 (which later became standard on cars from Chassis # > 153855 on) for an additional charge. There was a stiffer roll bar on > the cars 7H1721 (3/4" instead of stock 1/2", I believe) > > You could also request stiffer rear springs, for a price, 1B8929 > (standard after Chassis 152233) > > Basic kits could always be upgraded depending on what degree of racing > you planned to do. There were many additional gear and overdrive > combination options. > > Here is a bit of their encouraging advertising. This is from Piggott's > book "100 in Detail".? Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > > From: "HealeyRick" > To: "Jean Caron" > Cc: "Healeys" > Sent: Sunday December 20 2020 6:42:25AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100M Shocks > > I'm by no means an M expert but I have a vague recollection that they > were fitted with "RXP" shocks, same as the 100S.? I may be completely > wrong, just something from the dusty corners of my mind. > > Happy and Healthy Healeydays, > Rick Neville > > On Sat, Dec 19, 2020 at 10:07 PM Jean Caron > wrote: > > Bob, > > In the leaflets issued about the 100M, it says that there is > Special setting Front Shock Absorbers. Nothing else I could find. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail > for Windows 10 > > *From:* Bob Spidell > *Sent:* December 19, 2020 8:53 PM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] 100M Shocks > > Anybody know if 100M shock absorbers are different than regular > BN1/2s? > I think the sway bar was 'uprated,' but don't know about the shocks. > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Tue Dec 22 12:35:43 2020 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 14:35:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Voltmeter Repair In-Reply-To: <35aa6016-ebb7-024d-bf57-b6d3740a2fe8@chello.nl> References: <35aa6016-ebb7-024d-bf57-b6d3740a2fe8@chello.nl> Message-ID: <7B4BA893-0323-4D84-A11D-5EFB1EF207C2@gmail.com> My voltmeter stopped working yesterday. I have done some checking and it looks like all my gauges are taking 22 - 24 volts. The alternator is producing 80+ volts while the battery is at 14.5 volts with the engine running and 12.5 with it off. Does this sound normal? Is there some kind of resistor in the gauges to step down the voltage? Could it be a diode? Thank you for any help? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 21, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > ?Hello Price, > > > The Voltmeter is the least of your worries. If the output of the alternator/generator/regulator is showing 22-26V something is amiss. This should be rectified first! > > I am not sure if 26V would kill the Voltmeter. If so, repair is not really on the cards I think. The coil type (early ones) is harder to find I think, the later ones are still available new and there are plenty available used on eBay. If you have a picture of the meter I may have a look at my collection of gauges. Problem is shipping costs though. > > > Cheers, > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 21-12-2020 om 21:25 schreef R. Lindsay: >> My voltmeter just stopped working. I have taken it out of the car and tested the wires to the unit. They show 22 - 26 volts to the voltmeter. I also tested the connection at the battery - 14.0 volts. >> >> I presume there is too much voltage to the volt meter but perfect to the battery. Could the voltage to the voltmeter have burned it out? Is there a way to fix the voltmeter? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Price Lindsay >> >> Sent from my iPad From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Dec 22 12:44:58 2020 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 20:44:58 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Voltmeter Repair In-Reply-To: <7B4BA893-0323-4D84-A11D-5EFB1EF207C2@gmail.com> References: <35aa6016-ebb7-024d-bf57-b6d3740a2fe8@chello.nl> <7B4BA893-0323-4D84-A11D-5EFB1EF207C2@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1608666298802.1837386.32b6c172d32a913e403ccd9676e6153f071ea566@spica.telekom.de> 80+ Volts: Wow, what kind of alternator have you fitted? -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Voltmeter Repair Datum: 2020-12-22T20:36:48+0100 Von: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com> An: "Kees Oudesluijs" , "Healey List" My voltmeter stopped working yesterday. I have done some checking and it looks like all my gauges are taking 22 - 24 volts. The alternator is producing 80+ volts while the battery is at 14.5 volts with the engine running and 12.5 with it off. Does this sound normal? Is there some kind of resistor in the gauges to step down the voltage? Could it be a diode? Thank you for any help? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 21, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > ?Hello Price, > > > The Voltmeter is the least of your worries. If the output of the alternator/generator/regulator is showing 22-26V something is amiss. This should be rectified first! > > I am not sure if 26V would kill the Voltmeter. If so, repair is not really on the cards I think. The coil type (early ones) is harder to find I think, the later ones are still available new and there are plenty available used on eBay. If you have a picture of the meter I may have a look at my collection of gauges. Problem is shipping costs though. > > > Cheers, > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 21-12-2020 om 21:25 schreef R. Lindsay: >> My voltmeter just stopped working. I have taken it out of the car and tested the wires to the unit. They show 22 - 26 volts to the voltmeter. I also tested the connection at the battery - 14.0 volts. >> >> I presume there is too much voltage to the volt meter but perfect to the battery. Could the voltage to the voltmeter have burned it out? Is there a way to fix the voltmeter? >> >> Thanks. >> >> Price Lindsay >> >> Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de ? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Dec 22 12:52:16 2020 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 20:52:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Voltmeter Repair In-Reply-To: <7B4BA893-0323-4D84-A11D-5EFB1EF207C2@gmail.com> References: <35aa6016-ebb7-024d-bf57-b6d3740a2fe8@chello.nl> <7B4BA893-0323-4D84-A11D-5EFB1EF207C2@gmail.com> Message-ID: <7d3c573b-b747-2f0f-178d-4a5e8171d316@chello.nl> The Voltage in the circuit should normally not exceed 14,7V. If the alternator produces 80+V this should be reduced by a regulator to the said 14,7V max. Most alternators have an internal regulator meaning the these alternators will not produce more than the said 14,7V. In the later cars the electrical gauges (fuel, temperature) are supplied with 10V from the small Voltage regular somewhere behind the dash, usually fixed on one of the large instruments. The other instruments are the said voltage meter and the mechanical oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure and temperature gauge can be combined in a dual gauge in which case both gauges are mechanical and do not need a power supply so cannot be overloaded with 22-24V. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-12-2020 om 20:35 schreef R. Lindsay: > My voltmeter stopped working yesterday. > > I have done some checking and it looks like all my gauges are taking 22 - 24 volts. The alternator is producing 80+ volts while the battery is at 14.5 volts with the engine running and 12.5 with it off. > > Does this sound normal? Is there some kind of resistor in the gauges to step down the voltage? Could it be a diode? > > Thank you for any help? > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 21, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> >> ?Hello Price, >> >> >> The Voltmeter is the least of your worries. If the output of the alternator/generator/regulator is showing 22-26V something is amiss. This should be rectified first! >> >> I am not sure if 26V would kill the Voltmeter. If so, repair is not really on the cards I think. The coil type (early ones) is harder to find I think, the later ones are still available new and there are plenty available used on eBay. If you have a picture of the meter I may have a look at my collection of gauges. Problem is shipping costs though. >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 21-12-2020 om 21:25 schreef R. Lindsay: >>> My voltmeter just stopped working. I have taken it out of the car and tested the wires to the unit. They show 22 - 26 volts to the voltmeter. I also tested the connection at the battery - 14.0 volts. >>> >>> I presume there is too much voltage to the volt meter but perfect to the battery. Could the voltage to the voltmeter have burned it out? Is there a way to fix the voltmeter? >>> >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Price Lindsay >>> >>> Sent from my iPad From josef-eckert at t-online.de Tue Dec 22 13:06:40 2020 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 21:06:40 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Voltmeter Repair In-Reply-To: <7d3c573b-b747-2f0f-178d-4a5e8171d316@chello.nl> References: <35aa6016-ebb7-024d-bf57-b6d3740a2fe8@chello.nl> <7B4BA893-0323-4D84-A11D-5EFB1EF207C2@gmail.com> <7d3c573b-b747-2f0f-178d-4a5e8171d316@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1608667600428.1829731.507f70b1bfc7743b0e9f6049ec8cd5a099e99c01@spica.telekom.de> Alternators by design (at least those I know and I am working in that field) cannot have more than 15 Volts output. Generators are different in design and their output voltage can be much more, but is regulated by the regulator to about 14.5 Volts. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Voltmeter Repair Datum: 2020-12-22T20:53:25+0100 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" An: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com>, "Healey List" The Voltage in the circuit should normally not exceed 14,7V. If the alternator produces 80+V this should be reduced by a regulator to the said 14,7V max. Most alternators have an internal regulator meaning the these alternators will not produce more than the said 14,7V. In the later cars the electrical gauges (fuel, temperature) are supplied with 10V from the small Voltage regular somewhere behind the dash, usually fixed on one of the large instruments. The other instruments are the said voltage meter and the mechanical oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure and temperature gauge can be combined in a dual gauge in which case both gauges are mechanical and do not need a power supply so cannot be overloaded with 22-24V. Kees Oudesluijs Op 22-12-2020 om 20:35 schreef R. Lindsay: > My voltmeter stopped working yesterday. > > I have done some checking and it looks like all my gauges are taking 22 - 24 volts. The alternator is producing 80+ volts while the battery is at 14.5 volts with the engine running and 12.5 with it off. > > Does this sound normal? Is there some kind of resistor in the gauges to step down the voltage? Could it be a diode? > > Thank you for any help? > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 21, 2020, at 4:16 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> >> ?Hello Price, >> >> >> The Voltmeter is the least of your worries. If the output of the alternator/generator/regulator is showing 22-26V something is amiss. This should be rectified first! >> >> I am not sure if 26V would kill the Voltmeter. If so, repair is not really on the cards I think. The coil type (early ones) is harder to find I think, the later ones are still available new and there are plenty available used on eBay. If you have a picture of the meter I may have a look at my collection of gauges. Problem is shipping costs though. >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 21-12-2020 om 21:25 schreef R. Lindsay: >>> My voltmeter just stopped working. I have taken it out of the car and tested the wires to the unit. They show 22 - 26 volts to the voltmeter. I also tested the connection at the battery - 14.0 volts. >>> >>> I presume there is too much voltage to the volt meter but perfect to the battery. Could the voltage to the voltmeter have burned it out? Is there a way to fix the voltmeter? >>> >>> Thanks. >>> >>> Price Lindsay >>> >>> Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de ? From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Dec 22 14:48:12 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 13:48:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" BSW bolt in the generator front plate. The problem arises since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the aluminum generator front plate. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace wrote: > My understanding is that they are close but not interchangeable ? > Thread angles are slightly different. > > For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? > > At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think you told me > that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? > > Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. > Any tips to do this welcome. > Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see slight rounding > of UNC ? > > Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what they called it ? > > Would appreciate your expert input. > > Regards, > Roger Grace > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5859.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 747845 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5854.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 841302 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5852.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1165009 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mark at bradakis.com Tue Dec 22 18:30:05 2020 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 22 Dec 2020 18:30:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sending email Message-ID: To send an email to healeys at autox.team.net you send an email to healeys at autox.team.net. mjb. From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Dec 23 08:53:55 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 07:53:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt wrote: > The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. > > Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" BSW bolt in > the generator front plate. The problem arises since a 5/16" UNC bolt has > the same tpi (threads per inch) as the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that > UNC has a thread pitch angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. > The wrong bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the > aluminum generator front plate. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace wrote: > >> My understanding is that they are close but not interchangeable ? >> Thread angles are slightly different. >> >> For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? >> >> At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think you told me >> that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? >> >> Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. >> Any tips to do this welcome. >> Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see slight rounding >> of UNC ? >> >> Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what they called it ? >> >> Would appreciate your expert input. >> >> Regards, >> Roger Grace >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Excerpt from Fastener Article.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 357722 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Dec 23 09:30:16 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 11:30:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Well I have one for you Curt. The thread on the oil drain back pipe on the 100 engine (1B1236) has me stumped. The tube is 0.500" O.D. with an I.D. of 0.362" The OD of the thread is 0.511" and it is 19 T.P.I. I cannot find a 19 TPI x 1/2" pipe or tube spec anywhere .... any ideas? M On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... > > On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. >> >> Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" BSW bolt in >> the generator front plate. The problem arises since a 5/16" UNC bolt has >> the same tpi (threads per inch) as the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that >> UNC has a thread pitch angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. >> The wrong bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the >> aluminum generator front plate. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace wrote: >> >>> My understanding is that they are close but not interchangeable ? >>> Thread angles are slightly different. >>> >>> For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? >>> >>> At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think you told me >>> that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? >>> >>> Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. >>> Any tips to do this welcome. >>> Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see slight rounding >>> of UNC ? >>> >>> Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what they called it >>> ? >>> >>> Would appreciate your expert input. >>> >>> Regards, >>> Roger Grace >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Dec 23 09:48:18 2020 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 11:48:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000701d6d94b$6b2ca1b0$4185e510$@verizon.net> There are several articles on bolts on my site on the Technical page Miscellaneous Section John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2020 10:54 AM To: Roger Grace ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt > wrote: The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" BSW bolt in the generator front plate. The problem arises since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the aluminum generator front plate. Cheers, Curt On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace > wrote: My understanding is that they are close but not interchangeable ? Thread angles are slightly different. For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think you told me that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. Any tips to do this welcome. Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see slight rounding of UNC ? Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what they called it ? Would appreciate your expert input. Regards, Roger Grace -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Dec 23 10:46:35 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 12:46:35 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9b5c1cb9-e501-3e41-f928-8f3c75dcfa64@earthlink.net> Michael, I'm going to guess 1/4" BSP.? 0.518" OD - 19TPI. https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/23/20 11:30 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Well I have one for you Curt. > The thread on the oil drain back pipe on the 100 engine (1B1236) has > me stumped. > The tube is 0.500" O.D. with an I.D. of 0.362" > The OD of the thread is 0.511" and it is 19 T.P.I. > I cannot find a 19 TPI x 1/2" pipe or tube spec anywhere .... any ideas? > > M > > > On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM Curtis Arndt > wrote: > > Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... > > On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt > wrote: > > The bolt is 5/16" BSW!? ?Don't let anyone tell you different. > > Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" > BSW bolt in the generator front plate.? The problem arises > since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as > the 5/16" BSW bolt.? The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch > angle of 60??and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong > bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the > aluminum generator front plate. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace > > wrote: > > My understanding is that they are close but not > interchangeable ? > Thread angles are slightly different. > > For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? > > At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth -? think > you told me that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? > > Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. > Any tips to do this welcome. > Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see > slight rounding of UNC ? > > Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what > they called it ? > > Would appreciate your expert input. > > Regards, > Roger Grace > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Dec 23 10:48:11 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 12:48:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: <9b5c1cb9-e501-3e41-f928-8f3c75dcfa64@earthlink.net> References: <9b5c1cb9-e501-3e41-f928-8f3c75dcfa64@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Thanks Bob ... I think you have nailed it. M On Wed., Dec. 23, 2020, 12:46 p.m. Bob Haskell, wrote: > Michael, > > I'm going to guess 1/4" BSP. 0.518" OD - 19TPI. > > https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/23/20 11:30 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > > Well I have one for you Curt. > > The thread on the oil drain back pipe on the 100 engine (1B1236) has > > me stumped. > > The tube is 0.500" O.D. with an I.D. of 0.362" > > The OD of the thread is 0.511" and it is 19 T.P.I. > > I cannot find a 19 TPI x 1/2" pipe or tube spec anywhere .... any ideas? > > > > M > > > > > > On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM Curtis Arndt > > wrote: > > > > Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... > > > > On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt > > wrote: > > > > The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. > > > > Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" > > BSW bolt in the generator front plate. The problem arises > > since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as > > the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch > > angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong > > bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the > > aluminum generator front plate. > > > > Cheers, > > > > Curt > > > > On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace > > > wrote: > > > > My understanding is that they are close but not > > interchangeable ? > > Thread angles are slightly different. > > > > For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? > > > > At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think > > you told me that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? > > > > Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. > > Any tips to do this welcome. > > Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see > > slight rounding of UNC ? > > > > Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what > > they called it ? > > > > Would appreciate your expert input. > > > > Regards, > > Roger Grace > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed Dec 23 19:38:51 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 23 Dec 2020 18:38:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: <9b5c1cb9-e501-3e41-f928-8f3c75dcfa64@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <2E8DB332E7B54B52BEE37CB1DD4E1852@AllInOne> Understanding UNC and Whitworth is one thing but BSPP and BSTP fittings is a whole 'nother rabbit hole! _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2020 9:48 AM To: Bob Haskell Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC Thanks Bob ... I think you have nailed it. M On Wed., Dec. 23, 2020, 12:46 p.m. Bob Haskell, wrote: Michael, I'm going to guess 1/4" BSP. 0.518" OD - 19TPI. https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/23/20 11:30 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Well I have one for you Curt. > The thread on the oil drain back pipe on the 100 engine (1B1236) has > me stumped. > The tube is 0.500" O.D. with an I.D. of 0.362" > The OD of the thread is 0.511" and it is 19 T.P.I. > I cannot find a 19 TPI x 1/2" pipe or tube spec anywhere .... any ideas? > > M > > > On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM Curtis Arndt > wrote: > > Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... > > On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt > wrote: > > The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. > > Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" > BSW bolt in the generator front plate. The problem arises > since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as > the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch > angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong > bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the > aluminum generator front plate. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace > > wrote: > > My understanding is that they are close but not > interchangeable ? > Thread angles are slightly different. > > For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? > > At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think > you told me that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? > > Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. > Any tips to do this welcome. > Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see > slight rounding of UNC ? > > Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what > they called it ? > > Would appreciate your expert input. > > Regards, > Roger Grace > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Thu Dec 24 00:10:26 2020 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 08:10:26 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] BT7 carpet pieces left&right behind doors Message-ID: <1608793826759.1999420.9237240f37c9eb291b78b786302f6e14331d2e37@spica.telekom.de> I have a question to Concours experts. I am just doping the carpet pieces left/right behind the doors, where these little wooden blocks and the aluminium fasteners for the draught excluders are fitted. Are these pieces of carpet go, -starting from the wooden blocks to the rear of the car or - do these carpet pieces start already just behind the doors and are these wooden blocks then fixed with their screw on the carpet? Clamp the carpet to the car. I can?t find any pictures of this area in the known books. Many thanks for help, Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 24 07:44:38 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 09:44:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Roll on 2021 Message-ID: [image: image.png] M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1229981 bytes Desc: not available URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Dec 24 08:45:04 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 10:45:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Roll on 2021 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001101d6da0b$bfd21540$3f763fc0$@sympatico.ca> Beautiful Mike, I can hear that lovely exhaust note rumbling through the woods and across the lake. Best to you, your family, and the rest of the Healey fraternity, over Christmas and for 2021. Mirek and Gwen From: Healeys On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: December 24, 2020 9:45 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Roll on 2021 M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 559448 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Dec 24 08:56:58 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 10:56:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Christmas Greetings References: <5C63F8E3-6D29-4133-AEFD-CC8F1A85075A.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <5C63F8E3-6D29-4133-AEFD-CC8F1A85075A@aol.com> An old saying comes to mind that applies to troubled times like our world today, Peace on earth, good will towards men. All the best to you from western Pennsylvania Perry and Kimberley Sent from my iPhone From pdzwig at summaventures.com Thu Dec 24 09:51:38 2020 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 16:51:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Christmas Greetings In-Reply-To: <5C63F8E3-6D29-4133-AEFD-CC8F1A85075A@aol.com> References: <5C63F8E3-6D29-4133-AEFD-CC8F1A85075A.ref@aol.com> <5C63F8E3-6D29-4133-AEFD-CC8F1A85075A@aol.com> Message-ID: <39e615ca-2578-8aeb-a72a-962e35a5aebd@summaventures.com> All the best to you too, Perry and to all on the list, Peter On 24/12/2020 15:56, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > An old saying comes to mind that applies to troubled times like our world today, Peace on earth, good will towards men. All the best to you from western Pennsylvania > Perry and Kimberley > > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From airtightproductions at icloud.com Thu Dec 24 09:55:19 2020 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 16:55:19 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ho! Ho! Ho! Message-ID: <6a5005aa-cc16-4b0a-84bc-b65ebac2ea33@me.com> Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all. This has been a wonderful and dreadful year, but through it all the list has provided and for that, I am truly thankful. I thought my car would be running by now and it actually is, but it's not running 100%. Close, but no cigar as they say. A package of parts should be the final fix and I thought they were going to be here yesterday, but yesterday came and went and no delivery. Oh well. ???But in the mean time, Michael, thanks for the wonderful photo of your car, Perry, thanks for the kind words of wisdom and to the list, thank you all for the collective knowledge and encouragement throughout the year!? ???Stay tuned, because I'm bound and determined to have it running well before the end of this year and I will drive in the New Year in style with a huge grin on my face! ???And to all, a good night! Steven Kingsbury BN1 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From drtommitch at gmail.com Thu Dec 24 10:43:55 2020 From: drtommitch at gmail.com (Tom Mitchell) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 12:43:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Roll on 2021 In-Reply-To: <001101d6da0b$bfd21540$3f763fc0$@sympatico.ca> References: <001101d6da0b$bfd21540$3f763fc0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Happy holidays. Mike, great picture of your car. You've inspired me to share this picture from last year. [image: image.png] Tom Dr. Tom Mitchell On Thu, Dec 24, 2020, 10:45 AM wrote: > Beautiful Mike, I can hear that lovely exhaust note rumbling through the > woods and across the lake. > > > > Best to you, your family, and the rest of the Healey fraternity, over > Christmas and for 2021. > > > > Mirek and Gwen > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* December 24, 2020 9:45 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Roll on 2021 > > > > > > M > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/drtommitch at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 572265 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.png Type: image/png Size: 559448 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20140125_110750_923-SNOW.gif Type: image/gif Size: 1112984 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Thu Dec 24 11:22:49 2020 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 19:22:49 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Carpet In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1608834169287.2089726.42ff6c7bb268a1fad6f062ca7c7e7583620bc9a5@spica.telekom.de> Thanks Perry, But it looks like the details on the skinners picture are not correct. There should be no edging round the carpet. And the screws which fix the aluminium fastener should not be slotted srews but phillips head screws.. So skinners seems not correct on that. Happy Holidays, Josef -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Carpet Datum: 2020-12-24T18:39:28+0100 Von: "Perry Small" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" Josef This is from the Skinners UK site for the BT7. Hope this helps. Happy Holidays Perry ? From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Dec 24 11:20:04 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 13:20:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas References: Message-ID: From Santa?s workshop to all and to all a good night! Perry and Kimberley -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7827.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 148197 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Thu Dec 24 12:21:58 2020 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 19:21:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Trunnion needle bearing kit Message-ID: Anyone know the correct order of pieces for the trunnion needle bearing kit? I'm thinking it's (from bottom to top) bearing cup, bearing, thicker washer (appears to be a bearing surface washer), and then thinner washer. And shims if required. Happy holidays all. Shawn The Millers "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Thu Dec 24 12:49:19 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 19:49:19 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC Message-ID: When the British auto industry was switching over from BSF/W to UNF the explanation was published in the Austin Service Journal Volume 24. This is a good description of the differences.Also this chart has some very good measurements of the various hardware. Nice Christmas cards of Healeys in the snow...I don't have any snow, or my car out in the weather-it would be rain here in the Northwest. Here is one of the sister car to Michael's at our local car show-last year...none this year ..or next? Season's Best...stay safe! Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Harold Manifold" To: "Michael Salter", "Bob Haskell" Cc: "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday December 23 2020 6:39:51PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC Understanding UNC and Whitworth is one thing but BSPP and BSTP fittings is a whole 'nother rabbit hole! ------------------------- FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF Michael Salter SENT: Wednesday, December 23, 2020 9:48 AM TO: Bob Haskell CC: Healey List SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC Thanks Bob ... I think you have nailed it. M On Wed., Dec. 23, 2020, 12:46 p.m. Bob Haskell, wrote: Michael, I'm going to guess 1/4" BSP. 0.518" OD - 19TPI. [1]https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp [2] Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/23/20 11:30 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Well I have one for you Curt. > The thread on the oil drain back pipe on the 100 engine (1B1236) has > me stumped. > The tube is 0.500" O.D. with an I.D. of 0.362" > The OD of the thread is 0.511" and it is 19 T.P.I. > I cannot find a 19 TPI x 1/2" pipe or tube spec anywhere .... any ideas? > > M > > > On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM Curtis Arndt > wrote: > > Here is an excerpt from one of my articles... > > On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt > wrote: > > The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. > > Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" > BSW bolt in the generator front plate. The problem arises > since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as > the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch > angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong > bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the > aluminum generator front plate. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace > wrote: > > My understanding is that they are close but not > interchangeable ? > Thread angles are slightly different. > > For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? > > At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think > you told me that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? > > Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. > Any tips to do this welcome. > Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see > slight rounding of UNC ? > > Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what > they called it ? > > Would appreciate your expert input. > > Regards, > Roger Grace > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net [3]http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] > [7]http://autox.team.net/archive [8] > > Healeys at autox.team.net > [9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > [11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [12] > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net [13]http://www.team.net/donate.html [14] > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: [15]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [16] [17]http://autox.team.net/archive [18] > > Healeys at autox.team.net > [19]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [20] > > Unsubscribe/Manage: [21]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net [22] > Links: ------ [1] https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp [2] https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/donate.html [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [13] http://www.team.net/donate.html [14] http://www.team.net/donate.html [15] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [16] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [17] http://autox.team.net/archive [18] http://autox.team.net/archive [19] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [20] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [21] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net [22] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni1.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 357535 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni2.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 327138 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: uni5.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 314304 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: R19f.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 292416 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Thu Dec 24 15:44:03 2020 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 14:44:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I've published this before, but there is also a good explanation of Unified markings versus Whitworth in my vintage 1958 Machinery's Handbook. A great reference. Regarding Michael Salter's question, I agree with Bob H... *Nominal Size (inches)* *TPI * *Pitch (inches)* *Major Diameter (inches)* *Minor Diameter (inches)* *Tapping Drill Size* *1/4* *19* *0.0526* *0.518* *0.4546* *11.8 mm (0.4646 inch)* On Thu, Dec 24, 2020 at 11:53 AM wrote: > When the British auto industry was switching over from BSF/W to UNF the > explanation was published in the Austin Service Journal Volume 24. This is > a good description of the differences. > Also this chart has some very good measurements of the various hardware. > > Nice Christmas cards of Healeys in the snow...I don't have any snow, or my > car out in the weather-it would be rain here in the Northwest. Here is one > of the sister car to Michael's at our local car show-last year...none this > year ...or next? Season's Best...stay safe! Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "Harold Manifold" > To: "Michael Salter", "Bob Haskell" > Cc: "Healey List" > Sent: Wednesday December 23 2020 6:39:51PM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC > > Understanding UNC and Whitworth is one thing but BSPP and BSTP fittings is > a whole 'nother rabbit hole! > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of* > Michael Salter > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 23, 2020 9:48 AM > *To:* Bob Haskell > *Cc:* Healey List > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Whitworth vs UNC > > Thanks Bob ... I think you have nailed it. > > M > > On Wed., Dec. 23, 2020, 12:46 p.m. Bob Haskell, > wrote: > >> Michael, >> >> I'm going to guess 1/4" BSP. 0.518" OD - 19TPI. >> >> >> https://britishfasteners.com/threads-bsp >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >> On 12/23/20 11:30 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >> > Well I have one for you Curt. >> > The thread on the oil drain back pipe on the 100 engine (1B1236) has >> > me stumped. >> > The tube is 0.500" O.D. with an I.D. of 0.362" >> > The OD of the thread is 0.511" and it is 19 T.P.I. >> > I cannot find a 19 TPI x 1/2" pipe or tube spec anywhere .... any ideas? >> > >> > M >> > >> > >> > On Wed, Dec 23, 2020 at 10:54 AM Curtis Arndt > > > wrote: >> > >> > Here is an excerpt from one of my articles.. >> > >> > On Tue, Dec 22, 2020 at 1:48 PM Curtis Arndt > > > wrote: >> > >> > The bolt is 5/16" BSW! Don't let anyone tell you different. >> > >> > Even my 45K original mile '60 Bugeye has its original 5/16" >> > BSW bolt in the generator front plate. The problem arises >> > since a 5/16" UNC bolt has the same tpi (threads per inch) as >> > the 5/16" BSW bolt. The issue is that UNC has a thread pitch >> > angle of 60? and Whitworth by definition is 55?. The wrong >> > bolt will never torque properly and will eventually wear the >> > aluminum generator front plate. >> > >> > Cheers, >> > >> > Curt >> > >> > On Mon, Dec 21, 2020 at 3:53 PM Roger Grace >> > > wrote: >> > >> > My understanding is that they are close but not >> > interchangeable ? >> > Thread angles are slightly different. >> > >> > For AH generator adjusting link is this 5/16 W or 5/16 UNC ? >> > >> > At back of my mind think they should be Whitworth - think >> > you told me that is why they come loose if you use UNC ? >> > >> > Finding it difficult to identify one from the other. >> > Any tips to do this welcome. >> > Have a definite W bolt and comparing to UNC can only see >> > slight rounding of UNC ? >> > >> > Moss sent me a UNC bolt for this link - well that is what >> > they called it ? >> > >> > Would appreciate your expert input. >> > >> > Regards, >> > Roger Grace >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: >> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> > http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> > >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: >> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Machinerys Handbook British Unified Fastener Markings.pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 32605 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Dec 24 16:43:13 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 15:43:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Noel from Penelope Message-ID: Penelope, aka BN1 #724, received a visit yesterday from Two Wise Guys: Curt Arndt and Don Fisher. If that isn't appropriate for a holiday I don't know what is. Wishing everyone a healthy and peaceful New Year. -Roland after 23 years, Penelope's restoration is completed. -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Christmas Healey.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2791397 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Thu Dec 24 17:10:14 2020 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Fri, 25 Dec 2020 00:10:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Happy and Healthy Holidays to one and All from South central Kentucky Message-ID: No snow yet today and the local lake is at winter pool on probably the last drive of the year on my BN7 with the seasonal soft top installed . [cid:55C9974A-49D3-45B4-B44A-0959C5084531] Regards, Richard C Bowling Green, KY BN7 #440 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8523.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 119405 bytes Desc: IMG_8523.JPG URL: From Larry at patersondesign.ca Thu Dec 24 18:08:30 2020 From: Larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Thu, 24 Dec 2020 18:08:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Happy and Healthy Holidays to one and All from South central Kentucky In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005101d6da5a$76d0de40$64729ac0$@ca> Hey Richard, You're lucky with the late drive. We just had 18" of the white stuff come down. Took two days to get it moved out of the way. Merry Christmas Larry Paterson BN7L420 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Collins Sent: Thursday, December 24, 2020 5:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Happy and Healthy Holidays to one and All from South central Kentucky No snow yet today and the local lake is at winter pool on probably the last drive of the year on my BN7 with the seasonal soft top installed . Regards, Richard C Bowling Green, KY BN7 #440 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 119405 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Dec 26 17:21:05 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 00:21:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again References: <580404215.4637052.1609028465956.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <580404215.4637052.1609028465956@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the generator front plate of my BN2?? From some pictures I see on the web there is a nut on the backside of the generator plate.? Why then is the hole threaded? (and it's not UNF)? What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I need?? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: InkedGen Hole1_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1877337 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sat Dec 26 19:08:13 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 02:08:13 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story Message-ID: A Christmas Story by Hank Leach Friday, December 25, 2020 5:41 PM This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a Christmas Miracle. It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all items are now retrieved. Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: open from side.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 266282 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: filter lost.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 290831 bytes Desc: not available URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sat Dec 26 19:22:25 2020 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 02:22:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <786163744.4636018.1609035745824@mail.yahoo.com> Good one Hank!! -----Original Message----- From: gradea1 at charter.net To: 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Sent: Sat, Dec 26, 2020 9:08 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story AChristmas Story by Hank LeachFriday,December 25, 20205:41PMThis is a story of anew trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new flashlight for Christmas. Howall three items relate is the makings of a Christmas Miracle.?It starts out byfirst obtaining the correct trafficator (directional flasher) lever to fit onmy Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early adjustable steering setup so thatlever is a curved chrome handle (same one used on the later adjustables). The nonadjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever.? That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. Sowith new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicatorunit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time consumingtask that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon completion of theproject its time to check the working characteristics.?Turn on the key,listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump isnot stopping?stuck float. So now move to the rear carburettor float bowl,remove lid and free up brass float, clean needle and seat and check floatheight. Reassemble, being careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but thefilter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the enginebay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not located?it justdisappeared. I tried blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuummaybe to suck it up from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve.?Christmas Day weopen presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my Sister-in-law; she isso thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I thought, why not try out thissuper-bright flashlight and see if I could to locate the elusive filter-its outthere somewhere. Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frameand master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the framesupport, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the Healey frame.? You know that spot. It collects any part youare unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to thebottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight downthe frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and even a missingchoke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly in 2015. With the help ofthe flashlight and a long armed grabber all items are now retrieved.?Back to thetrafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the new lever, soeverything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing float bowl?aChristmas Miracle.?? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sat Dec 26 19:47:51 2020 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 18:47:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9be652e2-f4a0-54ce-b920-b5c2c82f0116@comcast.net> I like a happy ending.? A future Hallmark special, fersure. Mike On 12/26/2020 6:08 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > A Christmas Story by Hank Leach > > Friday, December 25, 2020 > > 5:41 PM > > This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new > flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of > a Christmas Miracle. > > It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional > flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early > adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle > (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering > uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever.That one was wrongly used on my > 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the > trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets > just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a > set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the > working characteristics. > > Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and > flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to > the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, > clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being > careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, > brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the > filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within > the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not > located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with > compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure > spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. > > Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight > from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the > gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see > if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. > Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and > master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the > frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the > Healey frame.You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable > to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom > where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight > down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and > even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly > in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all > items are now retrieved. > > Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with > the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the > overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Dec 26 20:01:11 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 22:01:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: <9be652e2-f4a0-54ce-b920-b5c2c82f0116@comcast.net> References: <9be652e2-f4a0-54ce-b920-b5c2c82f0116@comcast.net> Message-ID: Yep ... sounds just like a normal day in my garage ... ??? On Sat., Dec. 26, 2020, 9:49 p.m. Mike Sinclair, wrote: > I like a happy ending. A future Hallmark special, fersure. > > Mike > On 12/26/2020 6:08 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > A Christmas Story by Hank Leach > > Friday, December 25, 2020 > > 5:41 PM > > This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new > flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a > Christmas Miracle. > > > > It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional > flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early > adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one > used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black > "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So > with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator > unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time > consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon > completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. > > > > Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and > flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the > rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean > needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to > drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. > The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be > found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on > the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried > blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up > from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. > > > > Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my > Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I > thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to > locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the > engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I > moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and > the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects > any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you > can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the > lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and > the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the > re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed > grabber all items are now retrieved. > > > > Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the > new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing > float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Dec 26 20:04:38 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 26 Dec 2020 19:04:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <453ac617-2576-8535-1b79-7e7d7596a4be@comcast.net> re: 'The non adjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever.' Is that the one the Brits call the "Witch's Nose?" On 12/26/2020 6:08 PM, gradea1 at charter.net wrote: > > A Christmas Story by Hank Leach > > Friday, December 25, 2020 > > 5:41 PM > > This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new > flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of > a Christmas Miracle. > > It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional > flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early > adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle > (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering > uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever.That one was wrongly used on my > 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the > trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets > just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a > set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the > working characteristics. > > Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and > flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to > the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, > clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being > careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, > brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the > filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within > the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not > located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with > compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure > spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. > > Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight > from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the > gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see > if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. > Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and > master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the > frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the > Healey frame.You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable > to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom > where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight > down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and > even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly > in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all > items are now retrieved. > > Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with > the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the > overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Sat Dec 26 22:25:41 2020 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 05:25:41 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That is what I refer to as the domino game. One thing just causes another to happen. A game you cannot win. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2020 6:08 PM To: 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story A Christmas Story by Hank Leach Friday, December 25, 2020 5:41 PM This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a Christmas Miracle. It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all items are now retrieved. Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 01:25:22 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 16:25:22 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: <580404215.4637052.1609028465956@mail.yahoo.com> References: <580404215.4637052.1609028465956.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <580404215.4637052.1609028465956@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Michael - If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I will have to check. Best Regards, Alan On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the > generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there > is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole > threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I > need? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 01:32:41 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 16:32:41 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: <580404215.4637052.1609028465956.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <580404215.4637052.1609028465956@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist wrote: > Hi Michael - > > If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I will > have to check. > > Best Regards, > > Alan > > On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the >> generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there >> is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole >> threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I >> need? >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 06:10:53 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 08:10:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: <580404215.4637052.1609028465956.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <580404215.4637052.1609028465956@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Actually I'm pretty sure that that is a 5/16" Whitworth thread. .. not B.S.F. The same thread continued right throug production long after everything else saw changed to U.N.F. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 3:37 a.m. Alan Seigrist, wrote: > To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex > bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... > > On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist > wrote: > >> Hi Michael - >> >> If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I >> will have to check. >> >> Best Regards, >> >> Alan >> >> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean >> wrote: >> >>> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the >>> generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there >>> is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole >>> threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I >>> need? >>> Mike MacLean >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 06:56:40 2020 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 13:56:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Team Mike is spot on with this. It has always been 5/16Whit since God was a boy. That is partly where the problems lie. It is toooooo easy to strip the alloy if a 5/16UNC is substituted. Then you are reduced to a nut and bolt solution using anything you have around. Happy New Year to you all. Alan - from my iPad > On 27 Dec 2020, at 13:11, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Actually I'm pretty sure that that is a 5/16" Whitworth thread. .. not B.S.F. > The same thread continued right throug production long after everything else saw changed to U.N.F. > > M > >> On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 3:37 a.m. Alan Seigrist, wrote: >> To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... >> >>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist wrote: >>> Hi Michael - >>> >>> If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I will have to check. >>> >>> Best Regards, >>> >>> Alan >>> >>>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean wrote: >>>> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I need? >>>> Mike MacLean >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 07:26:27 2020 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 22:26:27 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: whitworth thread would make the most sense with soft metal On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 at 9:57 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > Hi Team > Mike is spot on with this. It has always been 5/16Whit since God was a > boy. That is partly where the problems lie. It is toooooo easy to strip the > alloy if a 5/16UNC is substituted. Then you are reduced to a nut and bolt > solution using anything you have around. > Happy New Year to you all. > > Alan - from my iPad > > On 27 Dec 2020, at 13:11, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > > Actually I'm pretty sure that that is a 5/16" Whitworth thread. .. not > B.S.F. > The same thread continued right throug production long after everything > else saw changed to U.N.F. > > M > > On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 3:37 a.m. Alan Seigrist, > wrote: > >> To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex >> bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... >> >> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist >> wrote: >> >>> Hi Michael - >>> >>> If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I >>> will have to check. >>> >>> Best Regards, >>> >>> Alan >>> >>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the >>>> generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there >>>> is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole >>>> threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I >>>> need? >>>> Mike MacLean >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 07:42:08 2020 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 14:42:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had various Fords and Vauxhall?s (UK) during the late 60?s into early 70?s and it was still Whitworth until the end of Dynamo?s (Generators) and the arrival of Alternators. Strange but true. Alan - from my iPad > On 27 Dec 2020, at 14:26, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > ? > whitworth thread would make the most sense with soft metal > >> On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 at 9:57 PM, Bluehealey wrote: >> Hi Team >> Mike is spot on with this. It has always been 5/16Whit since God was a boy. That is partly where the problems lie. It is toooooo easy to strip the alloy if a 5/16UNC is substituted. Then you are reduced to a nut and bolt solution using anything you have around. >> Happy New Year to you all. >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> >>>> On 27 Dec 2020, at 13:11, Michael Salter wrote: >>>> >>> ? >> >>> Actually I'm pretty sure that that is a 5/16" Whitworth thread. .. not B.S.F. >>> The same thread continued right throug production long after everything else saw changed to U.N.F. >>> >>> M >>> >>>> On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 3:37 a.m. Alan Seigrist, wrote: >>>> To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... >>>> >>>>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist wrote: >>>>> Hi Michael - >>>>> >>>>> If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I will have to check. >>>>> >>>>> Best Regards, >>>>> >>>>> Alan >>>>> >>>>>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean wrote: >>>>>> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I need? >>>>>> Mike MacLean >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>>> >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>> >>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>>> >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>>>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 07:52:38 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 09:52:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Actually this was really a Lucas thing. They appear to have only changed away from BSW, BSF and BA in new product designs after the early '60's so items like starters, generators, switches etc continued to be produced with the old thread configurations well into the '70s and beyond. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 9:42 a.m. Bluehealey, wrote: > I had various Fords and Vauxhall?s (UK) during the late 60?s into early > 70?s and it was still Whitworth until the end of Dynamo?s (Generators) and > the arrival of Alternators. > Strange but true. > > Alan - from my iPad > > On 27 Dec 2020, at 14:26, Alan Seigrist wrote: > > ? > whitworth thread would make the most sense with soft metal > > On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 at 9:57 PM, Bluehealey wrote: > >> Hi Team >> Mike is spot on with this. It has always been 5/16Whit since God was a >> boy. That is partly where the problems lie. It is toooooo easy to strip the >> alloy if a 5/16UNC is substituted. Then you are reduced to a nut and bolt >> solution using anything you have around. >> Happy New Year to you all. >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> >> On 27 Dec 2020, at 13:11, Michael Salter wrote: >> >> ? >> >> Actually I'm pretty sure that that is a 5/16" Whitworth thread. .. not >> B.S.F. >> The same thread continued right throug production long after everything >> else saw changed to U.N.F. >> >> M >> >> On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 3:37 a.m. Alan Seigrist, >> wrote: >> >>> To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex >>> bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... >>> >>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Hi Michael - >>>> >>>> If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I >>>> will have to check. >>>> >>>> Best Regards, >>>> >>>> Alan >>>> >>>> On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean < >>>> rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the >>>>> generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there >>>>> is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole >>>>> threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I >>>>> need? >>>>> Mike MacLean >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Dec 27 11:01:20 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 18:01:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Also known as shipfitters disease. You were lucky to get out of it while the car was still in one piece... I was unaware that there were BN1s made without adjustable steering wheels or that the switch lever was different. I guess I?m still alive if I?m still learning. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Richard Kahn Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 5:25 AM To: gradea1 at charter.net ; 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story That is what I refer to as the domino game. One thing just causes another to happen. A game you cannot win. ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of gradea1 at charter.net Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2020 6:08 PM To: 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story A Christmas Story by Hank Leach Friday, December 25, 2020 5:41 PM This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a Christmas Miracle. It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all items are now retrieved. Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Dec 27 11:10:30 2020 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 18:10:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fasteners Again In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: New tooling costs money, which was not in great supply at the time. And they probably saw the end of the old tech looming so they didn?t think it worthwhile. But at least it gives us fodder for these discussions... Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 2:52 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fasteners Again Actually this was really a Lucas thing. They appear to have only changed away from BSW, BSF and BA in new product designs after the early '60's so items like starters, generators, switches etc continued to be produced with the old thread configurations well into the '70s and beyond. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 9:42 a.m. Bluehealey, > wrote: I had various Fords and Vauxhall?s (UK) during the late 60?s into early 70?s and it was still Whitworth until the end of Dynamo?s (Generators) and the arrival of Alternators. Strange but true. Alan - from my iPad On 27 Dec 2020, at 14:26, Alan Seigrist > wrote: ? whitworth thread would make the most sense with soft metal On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 at 9:57 PM, Bluehealey > wrote: Hi Team Mike is spot on with this. It has always been 5/16Whit since God was a boy. That is partly where the problems lie. It is toooooo easy to strip the alloy if a 5/16UNC is substituted. Then you are reduced to a nut and bolt solution using anything you have around. Happy New Year to you all. Alan - from my iPad On 27 Dec 2020, at 13:11, Michael Salter > wrote: ? Actually I'm pretty sure that that is a 5/16" Whitworth thread. .. not B.S.F. The same thread continued right throug production long after everything else saw changed to U.N.F. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 3:37 a.m. Alan Seigrist, > wrote: To clarify, originally there was a set screw (i.e., a fully threaded hex bolt) there to be the final tighten for the bracket..... On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 4:25 PM Alan Seigrist > wrote: Hi Michael - If threaded, that hole should be either 5/16ths BSF or 3/8ths BSF. I will have to check. Best Regards, Alan On Sun, Dec 27, 2020 at 8:27 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: Can someone tell me the fastener arrangement for this hole in the generator front plate of my BN2? From some pictures I see on the web there is a nut on the backside of the generator plate. Why then is the hole threaded? (and it's not UNF) What thread/size fastener and/or nut do I need? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Dec 27 13:45:30 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 12:45:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Message-ID: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MSC110.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Sun Dec 27 15:42:24 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 22:42:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story Message-ID: <29a2ec5bece78beed38102045b335eea1c097e71@webmail> Bill-the adjustable steering was used on the early 100s including your car 34 bodies from mine. It used a chrome trafficator lever. From 149930 the non-adjustable unit was installed and it used the black "birds beak" (witch's nose) lever. The facia was also modified to have a smaller opening for the now skinny steering shaft (for looks only) and the seat pans now had sliding adjusters rather then bolted to the floor. This carried thru to the 100-6 era. Later the adjustable unit was brought back and continued on to the last BJ8 produced (using the same parts as the early 100). I'm not sure if my car originally came with chrome or black lever but to be concours correct I changed it to the chrome item. During the hurried rush to get the first 100s out the door the factory would use any available part on the shelf. Since the trafficator was an involved unit, they would have to be shipped in complete, and ready to go onto cars on the track at Longbridge. As Roland asked, is that the last of items I would want to change to make the car correct? This was one of the items. There are about 75 various differences between the early BN1 and the later BN1s.It would be difficult to get one of these cars 100% correct. Glad you enjoyed my Christmas story...Happy New Year to all. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" To: "Richard Kahn", "gradea1 at charter.net", "kentlambert1957 at gmail.com" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday December 27 2020 10:01:28AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story Also known as shipfitters disease. You were lucky to get out of it while the car was still in one piece... I was unaware that there were BN1s made without adjustable steering wheels or that the switch lever was different. I guess I?m still alive if I?m still learning. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Richard Kahn SENT: Sunday, December 27, 2020 5:25 AM TO: gradea1 at charter.net ; 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story That is what I refer to as the domino game. One thing just causes another to happen. A game you cannot win. ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Saturday, December 26, 2020 6:08 PM TO: 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story A Christmas Story by Hank Leach Friday, December 25, 2020 5:41 PM This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a Christmas Miracle. It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all items are now retrieved. Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 27 16:44:02 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 18:44:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: <29a2ec5bece78beed38102045b335eea1c097e71@webmail> References: <29a2ec5bece78beed38102045b335eea1c097e71@webmail> Message-ID: Another really difficult correct part for the early cars is the back plate and gearbox case with the 3rd starter bolt although apparently the 3 bolt starter was not used. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 5:42 p.m. , wrote: > Bill-the adjustable steering was used on the early 100s including your car > 34 bodies from mine. It used a chrome trafficator lever. From 149930 the > non-adjustable unit was installed and it used the black "birds beak" > (witch's nose) lever. The facia was also modified to have a smaller opening > for the now skinny steering shaft (for looks only) and the seat pans now > had sliding adjusters rather then bolted to the floor. This carried thru to > the 100-6 era. Later the adjustable unit was brought back and continued on > to the last BJ8 produced (using the same parts as the early 100). > > I'm not sure if my car originally came with chrome or black lever but to > be concours correct I changed it to the chrome item. During the hurried > rush to get the first 100s out the door the factory would use any available > part on the shelf. Since the trafficator was an involved unit, they would > have to be shipped in complete, and ready to go onto cars on the track at > Longbridge. > > As Roland asked, is that the last of items I would want to change to make > the car correct? This was one of the items. There are about 75 various > differences between the early BN1 and the later BN1s.It would be difficult > to get one of these cars 100% correct. > > Glad you enjoyed my Christmas story...Happy New Year to all. Hank > > ----------------------------------------- > From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" > To: "Richard Kahn", "gradea1 at charter.net", "kentlambert1957 at gmail.com" > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Sunday December 27 2020 10:01:28AM > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story > > Also known as shipfitters disease. You were lucky to get out of it while > the car was still in one piece... > > I was unaware that there were BN1s made without adjustable steering wheels > or that the switch lever was different. I guess I?m still alive if I?m > still learning. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Richard > Kahn > *Sent:* Sunday, December 27, 2020 5:25 AM > *To:* gradea1 at charter.net ; ' > kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' > *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story > That is what I refer to as the domino game. One thing just causes another > to happen. A game you cannot win. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of > gradea1 at charter.net > *Sent:* Saturday, December 26, 2020 6:08 PM > *To:* 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' > *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story > > A Christmas Story by Hank Leach > > Friday, December 25, 2020 > > 5:41 PM > > This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new > flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a > Christmas Miracle. > > It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional > flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early > adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one > used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black > "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So > with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator > unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time > consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon > completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. > > Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and > flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the > rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean > needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to > drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. > The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be > found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on > the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried > blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up > from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. > > Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my > Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I > thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to > locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the > engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I > moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and > the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects > any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you > can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the > lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and > the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the > re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed > grabber all items are now retrieved. > > Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the > new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing > float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 27 16:55:54 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 15:55:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> Message-ID: <005f01d6dcab$d0eb53d0$72c1fb70$@sbcglobal.net> The wooden block is screwed to the body with a single self-taping screw through the middle and the three holes secure the trim piece to the wooden block. I think the block may have been oak. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From kags at shaw.ca Sun Dec 27 17:30:50 2020 From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 16:30:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> Message-ID: <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca> Harold: It is as John says - single screw down through the centre of the block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers in place, trapping the door seal end. The blocks are covered with a thin black vinyl material - the same stuff that is on the spare tire hold down blocks in the boot. And for Joseph: you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7: from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood blocks. My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original - all softy trim, carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a pretty high gold level score. Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and get a couple of photos. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sun Dec 27 17:41:47 2020 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 19:41:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca> References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: Earl, What color is the interior in your BT7?? I think that the vinyl covering the blocks matches interior color rather than always being black.? I'll try to remember to look at my BT7 tricarb tomorrow.? My interior is red, so the vinyl over the blocks is most likely red.? When I restored the car I matched what was there originally. And I do believe that the carpet is cur around the block as you have stated. Charlie '62 BT7 tricarb On 12/27/2020 7:30 PM, kags at shaw.ca wrote: > > Harold: > > It is as John says ? single screw down through the centre of the > block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers > in place, trapping the door seal end.? The blocks are covered with a > thin black vinyl material ? the same stuff that is on the spare tire > hold down blocks in the boot. > > And for Joseph:? you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7:? > from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood > blocks. > > My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original ? all softy trim, > carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way > the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a > pretty high gold level score. > > Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), > and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and > get a couple of photos. > > Earl Kagna > > Victoria BC > > BJ8, BT7 tri-carb > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Harold > Manifold > *Sent:* Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM > *To:* 'Healey List' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks > > Hello, > > I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a > wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures > on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a > hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the > block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the > wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure > it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the > dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? > > Thanks... Harold > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 27 18:12:30 2020 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 17:12:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <516297BC-924C-48CA-BF51-42032973162E@sbcglobal.net> We have them available. David Nock British Car Specialists?s Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 27, 2020, at 4:42 PM, Charlie Baldwin wrote: > > ? > Earl, > > What color is the interior in your BT7? I think that the vinyl covering the blocks matches interior color rather than always being black. I'll try to remember to look at my BT7 tricarb tomorrow. My interior is red, so the vinyl over the blocks is most likely red. When I restored the car I matched what was there originally. > > And I do believe that the carpet is cur around the block as you have stated. > > Charlie > > '62 BT7 tricarb > > On 12/27/2020 7:30 PM, kags at shaw.ca wrote: >> Harold: >> >> It is as John says ? single screw down through the centre of the block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers in place, trapping the door seal end. The blocks are covered with a thin black vinyl material ? the same stuff that is on the spare tire hold down blocks in the boot. >> >> And for Joseph: you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7: from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood blocks. >> >> My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original ? all softy trim, carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a pretty high gold level score. >> >> Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and get a couple of photos. >> >> Earl Kagna >> Victoria BC >> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb >> >> >> From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold >> Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM >> To: 'Healey List' >> Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks >> >> Hello, >> >> I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? >> >> >> >> Thanks... Harold >> >> Virus-free. www.avast.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 27 18:17:54 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 27 Dec 2020 17:17:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca> References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <007401d6dcb7$4560dc70$d0229550$@sbcglobal.net> The block is about 1-1/4" x 1-5/8" From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kags at shaw.ca Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 4:31 PM To: 'Harold Manifold' ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Harold: It is as John says - single screw down through the centre of the block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers in place, trapping the door seal end. The blocks are covered with a thin black vinyl material - the same stuff that is on the spare tire hold down blocks in the boot. And for Joseph: you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7: from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood blocks. My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original - all softy trim, carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a pretty high gold level score. Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and get a couple of photos. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' > Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Dec 27 18:26:36 2020 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 01:26:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: <007401d6dcb7$4560dc70$d0229550$@sbcglobal.net> References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca>, <007401d6dcb7$4560dc70$d0229550$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Anyone have a picture? I have the metal pieces but no wood. But there are several wood pieces that are associated with them I think. Different for my BN7 ? Regards, Richard C On Dec 27, 2020, at 19:18, John Spaur wrote: ? The block is about 1-1/4? x 1-5/8? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kags at shaw.ca Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 4:31 PM To: 'Harold Manifold' ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Harold: It is as John says ? single screw down through the centre of the block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers in place, trapping the door seal end. The blocks are covered with a thin black vinyl material ? the same stuff that is on the spare tire hold down blocks in the boot. And for Joseph: you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7: from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood blocks. My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original ? all softy trim, carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a pretty high gold level score. Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and get a couple of photos. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' > Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold [https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Dec 27 18:50:07 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 01:50:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: BT7 Carpet Detail In-Reply-To: <969876385.871875.1608849957029@myemail.cox.net> References: <969876385.871875.1608849957029@myemail.cox.net> Message-ID: <1421662295.4839532.1609120207535@mail.yahoo.com> Listers Joe offered this info to Josef via me and I see that the list has more questions so I'm forwarding to the list. Perry -----Original Message----- From: Joe Johnson To: Small, Perry Sent: Thu, Dec 24, 2020 5:45 pm Subject: BT7 Carpet Detail Hi again Perry, I see you have been communicating with Josef Eckert online about his questions on how to trim out the wood block on top of the B-post on a BT7. I tried to send some photos to him of how I did it on my BT7, but since I am not a member of Autox.net, I couldn't contact him directly. So, I thought if you were of a mind to contact him again, I have attached 3 photos you might send him on how it should be done. He is correct about some of the photos on Skinner's website for the BT7 not being correct.? John has posted some photos of my installation of his interior kits in my BJ8 on his website which I think are correct to the Concours Guidelines. I have communicated with John several times concerning why it would be helpful if he would include some installation diagrams showing how to fit his interior kits correctly and I have even sent him some diagrams for the BJ8. I don't know if he has followed through with my suggestion to pack them in his interior kits. Joe Johnson -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1060.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 130559 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1061.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 127786 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1059.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 117044 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ah100tech at gmail.com Mon Dec 28 04:44:28 2020 From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 11:44:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] A Christmas Story In-Reply-To: References: <29a2ec5bece78beed38102045b335eea1c097e71@webmail> Message-ID: Michael Just to add to this please see the attached Austin Service Journal. Although it only gives the A70 chassis numbers we can be fairly confident that the cut in date for the 100 is about the same because the chassis numbers were allocated to both the A70 and the 100 as they progressed down the production line at Longbridge. Chassis numbers around 1483xx were built in November 1953. Austin Service Journal dated February 15, 1954, is a typical delay from a modification taking part on the line to publication So it is reasonable to suggest that the rear plate change took place in or around November 1953 to a car chassis number around 1483xx Engines fitted to Austin 16 and early A70 had the three-hole plate where the 3 hole starter was fitted but as you say before 100 productions started On Sun, 27 Dec 2020 at 23:45, Michael Salter wrote: > Another really difficult correct part for the early cars is the back plate > and gearbox case with the 3rd starter bolt although apparently the 3 bolt > starter was not used. > > M > > On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 5:42 p.m. , wrote: > >> Bill-the adjustable steering was used on the early 100s including your >> car 34 bodies from mine. It used a chrome trafficator lever. From 149930 >> the non-adjustable unit was installed and it used the black "birds beak" >> (witch's nose) lever. The facia was also modified to have a smaller opening >> for the now skinny steering shaft (for looks only) and the seat pans now >> had sliding adjusters rather then bolted to the floor. This carried thru to >> the 100-6 era. Later the adjustable unit was brought back and continued on >> to the last BJ8 produced (using the same parts as the early 100). >> >> I'm not sure if my car originally came with chrome or black lever but to >> be concours correct I changed it to the chrome item. During the hurried >> rush to get the first 100s out the door the factory would use any available >> part on the shelf. Since the trafficator was an involved unit, they would >> have to be shipped in complete, and ready to go onto cars on the track at >> Longbridge. >> >> As Roland asked, is that the last of items I would want to change to make >> the car correct? This was one of the items. There are about 75 various >> differences between the early BN1 and the later BN1s.It would be difficult >> to get one of these cars 100% correct. >> >> Glad you enjoyed my Christmas story...Happy New Year to all. Hank >> >> ----------------------------------------- >> From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" >> To: "Richard Kahn", "gradea1 at charter.net", "kentlambert1957 at gmail.com" >> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" >> Sent: Sunday December 27 2020 10:01:28AM >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story >> >> Also known as shipfitters disease. You were lucky to get out of it while >> the car was still in one piece... >> >> I was unaware that there were BN1s made without adjustable steering >> wheels or that the switch lever was different. I guess I?m still alive if >> I?m still learning. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> BN1 #554 >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Richard >> Kahn >> *Sent:* Sunday, December 27, 2020 5:25 AM >> *To:* gradea1 at charter.net ; ' >> kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' >> *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story >> That is what I refer to as the domino game. One thing just causes another >> to happen. A game you cannot win. >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of >> gradea1 at charter.net >> *Sent:* Saturday, December 26, 2020 6:08 PM >> *To:* 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' >> *Cc:* 'healeys at autox.team.net' >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story >> >> A Christmas Story by Hank Leach >> >> Friday, December 25, 2020 >> >> 5:41 PM >> >> This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new >> flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a >> Christmas Miracle. >> >> It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional >> flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early >> adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one >> used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black >> "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So >> with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator >> unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time >> consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon >> completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. >> >> Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and >> flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the >> rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean >> needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to >> drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. >> The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be >> found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on >> the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried >> blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up >> from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. >> >> Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from >> my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I >> thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to >> locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the >> engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I >> moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and >> the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects >> any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you >> can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the >> lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and >> the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the >> re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed >> grabber all items are now retrieved. >> >> Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with >> the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the >> overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Vol 24 5 Engine.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 404839 bytes Desc: not available URL: From manifold at telus.net Mon Dec 28 10:36:51 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 09:36:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca>, <007401d6dcb7$4560dc70$d0229550$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <33D0BAF3060A46BC8D182966618453DB@AllInOne> Thanks for all your help with the Wooden Trim Blocks, I have it now....Harold _____ From: Richard Collins [mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com] Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 5:27 PM To: John Spaur Cc: kags at shaw.ca; Harold Manifold; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Anyone have a picture? I have the metal pieces but no wood. But there are several wood pieces that are associated with them I think. Different for my BN7 ? Regards, Richard C On Dec 27, 2020, at 19:18, John Spaur wrote: ? The block is about 1-1/4? x 1-5/8? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of kags at shaw.ca Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 4:31 PM To: 'Harold Manifold' ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Harold: It is as John says ? single screw down through the centre of the block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers in place, trapping the door seal end. The blocks are covered with a thin black vinyl material ? the same stuff that is on the spare tire hold down blocks in the boot. And for Joseph: you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7: from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood blocks. My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original ? all softy trim, carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a pretty high gold level score. Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and get a couple of photos. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gradea1 at charter.net Mon Dec 28 10:47:25 2020 From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:47:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] early 100 differences Message-ID: <37b71c8e60aff80c4204897dbea8edc97f023899@webmail> Hi Michael-I agree that the third hole was for a three bolt starter, however on our cars, it carried the ground strap lead. I was going to find the page in the service journal when John Harper actually beat me to it! He sure is fast on the replies. Isn't it great that we have this email setup to knock around ideas of what was, could be and never did happen. For lack of a better place, I hung the ground strap on that hole, then I found the passage in the Journal and that solidified it. Thanks for your and John's input. Eventually, we may get these cars 99% correct. Hank -----------------------------------------From: "Michael Salter" To: "Hank Leach" Cc: Sent: Sunday December 27 2020 6:52:44PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] early 100 differences Here is a pic of the drive end bracket of the Lucas starter used on the Austin 16. The engine from that car eventually evolved to become the 2660 c.c. one used in the A90 an AH100. That was the origin of the 3rd bolt hole. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 9:21 p.m. , wrote: Michael-actually that third hole is for the ground strap. It was ok on the A90. I used it on my car but the factory later changed it eliminating the hole and rounding off the plate as it was "fouling" the body on some occasions. Then the ground strap was attached to the bell housing as on all the later cars. This note can be found on my list of differences, and also in the Volume 24 Service Journal. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "Michael Salter" To: "Hank Leach" Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "kentlambert1957 at gmail.com" Sent: Sunday December 27 2020 3:44:13PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story Another really difficult correct part for the early cars is the back plate and gearbox case with the 3rd starter bolt although apparently the 3 bolt starter was not used. M On Sun., Dec. 27, 2020, 5:42 p.m. , wrote: Bill-the adjustable steering was used on the early 100s including your car 34 bodies from mine. It used a chrome trafficator lever. From 149930 the non-adjustable unit was installed and it used the black "birds beak" (witch's nose) lever. The facia was also modified to have a smaller opening for the now skinny steering shaft (for looks only) and the seat pans now had sliding adjusters rather then bolted to the floor. This carried thru to the 100-6 era. Later the adjustable unit was brought back and continued on to the last BJ8 produced (using the same parts as the early 100). I'm not sure if my car originally came with chrome or black lever but to be concours correct I changed it to the chrome item. During the hurried rush to get the first 100s out the door the factory would use any available part on the shelf. Since the trafficator was an involved unit, they would have to be shipped in complete, and ready to go onto cars on the track at Longbridge. As Roland asked, is that the last of items I would want to change to make the car correct? This was one of the items. There are about 75 various differences between the early BN1 and the later BN1s.It would be difficult to get one of these cars 100% correct. Glad you enjoyed my Christmas story...Happy New Year to all. Hank ----------------------------------------- From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" To: "Richard Kahn", "gradea1 at charter.net", "kentlambert1957 at gmail.com" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Sunday December 27 2020 10:01:28AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story Also known as shipfitters disease. You were lucky to get out of it while the car was still in one piece... I was unaware that there were BN1s made without adjustable steering wheels or that the switch lever was different. I guess I?m still alive if I?m still learning. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of Richard Kahn SENT: Sunday, December 27, 2020 5:25 AM TO: gradea1 at charter.net ; 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story That is what I refer to as the domino game. One thing just causes another to happen. A game you cannot win. ------------------------- FROM: Healeys on behalf of gradea1 at charter.net SENT: Saturday, December 26, 2020 6:08 PM TO: 'kentlambert1957 at gmail.com' CC: 'healeys at autox.team.net' SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] A Christmas Story A Christmas Story by Hank Leach Friday, December 25, 2020 5:41 PM This is a story of a new trafficator lever, a lost filter and a new flashlight for Christmas. How all three items relate is the makings of a Christmas Miracle. It starts out by first obtaining the correct trafficator (directional flasher) lever to fit on my Austin Healey 100. That car uses the early adjustable steering setup so that lever is a curved chrome handle (same one used on the later adjustables). The non adjustable steering uses a black "birds beak" shaped lever. That one was wrongly used on my 1953 BN1. So with new part in hand, the procedure is to remove the trafficator indicator unit, disassemble it and replace the lever. Lets just say it?s a time consuming task that requires nimble fingers and a set procedure. Upon completion of the project its time to check the working characteristics. Turn on the key, listen for fuel pump to stop then check horn and flashers?uh, oh, fuel pump is not stopping?stuck float. So now move to the rear carburettor float bowl, remove lid and free up brass float, clean needle and seat and check float height. Reassemble, being careful not to drop any parts. Darn, there goes the fibre washer, brass filter and spring. The washer was laying under the car, but the filter was no where to be found. Looked everywhere on floor, within the engine bay, on the frame, on the suspension too, but it was not located?it just disappeared. I tried blowing out the area with compressed air, then a vacuum maybe to suck it up from some obscure spot. Not found. That was Christmas Eve. Christmas Day we open presents and one was a 500 Lumens flashlight from my Sister-in-law; she is so thoughtful. So, after we opened the gifts, I thought, why not try out this super-bright flashlight and see if I could to locate the elusive filter-its out there somewhere. Shined the light on the engine, under the carbs, on the frame and master cylinder-where is it? As I moved the new flashlight toward the frame support, it touched the edge and the lens fell out into the Healey frame. You know that spot. It collects any part you are unable to find, and it is curved just enough that you can't see to the bottom where it ends on the frame rail. I shined the lens-less flashlight down the frame and sure enough there was the lens?and the filter, and even a missing choke lever return spring lost during the re-assembly in 2015. With the help of the flashlight and a long armed grabber all items are now retrieved. Back to the trafficator, key on, horn and flashers work correctly with the new lever, so everything was assembled correctly, including the overflowing float bowl?a Christmas Miracle. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net [1] [2]http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: [4] [5]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] [7] [8]http://autox.team.net/archive [9] Healeys at autox.team.net [10] [11]http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [12] Unsubscribe/Manage: [13] [14]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [15] Links: ------ [1] http://www.team.net/donate.html [2] http://www.team.net/donate.html [3] http://www.team.net/donate.html [4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [5] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [6] http://wwwteam.net/pipermail/healeys [7] http://autox.team.net/archive [8] http://autox.team.net/archive [9] http://autox.team.net/archive [10] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [11] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [12] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys [13] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [14] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com [15] http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 28 12:02:06 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 11:02:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> Will someone identify this car? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG-20201228-WA0003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 93838 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG-20201228-WA0002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83151 bytes Desc: not available URL: From reinhart.rosner at aon.at Mon Dec 28 12:33:22 2020 From: reinhart.rosner at aon.at (Reinhart Rosner) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 20:33:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <004e01d6dd50$4e054a20$ea0fde60$@aon.at> Hallo John, We do not see too much of this car, but from the shape of the grill it is either a BMW or an EMW. Maybe a model 326 or a 327. Reinhart Reinhart Rosner 55 AH 100 BN 1 Vienna - Austria Von: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von John Spaur Gesendet: Montag, 28. Dezember 2020 20:02 An: 'Healey List' Betreff: [Healeys] What is this car Will someone identify this car? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Dec 28 15:01:20 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:01:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <002a01d6dd64$f9a1b1c0$ece51540$@sympatico.ca> Hmmm.. I immediately went to Bristol 400 or 401, but they were both 2-doors and had headlamps between the fenders and grill. The grill, wheels and windscreen trim definitely look Bristol-like. Second guess was pre-war BMW 328, but again no headlamps and the wheels are wrong. Mirek From: Healeys On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: December 28, 2020 2:02 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] What is this car Will someone identify this car? Thank you, John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Dec 28 15:08:13 2020 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:08:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: <002a01d6dd64$f9a1b1c0$ece51540$@sympatico.ca> References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> <002a01d6dd64$f9a1b1c0$ece51540$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <0D10B580-9C03-4E67-A398-56FA897412F4@rogers.com> I think it's a prewar BMW 326. Stephen, BJ8 > On Dec 28, 2020, at 5:01 PM, wrote: > > Hmmm.. I immediately went to Bristol 400 or 401, but they were both 2-doors and had headlamps between the fenders and grill. The grill, wheels and windscreen trim definitely look Bristol-like. Second guess was pre-war BMW 328, but again no headlamps and the wheels are wrong. > > Mirek > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of John Spaur > Sent: December 28, 2020 2:02 PM > To: 'Healey List' > Subject: [Healeys] What is this car > > Will someone identify this car? > > Thank you, > > John Spaur > ?62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Mon Dec 28 15:10:16 2020 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:10:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Definitely a BMW 326?the grille detail nails it. Stephen > On Dec 28, 2020, at 2:02 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > Will someone identify this car? > > Thank you, > > John Spaur > ?62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Mon Dec 28 15:15:22 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 17:15:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: <0D10B580-9C03-4E67-A398-56FA897412F4@rogers.com> References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> <002a01d6dd64$f9a1b1c0$ece51540$@sympatico.ca> <0D10B580-9C03-4E67-A398-56FA897412F4@rogers.com> Message-ID: <003c01d6dd66$ef84f880$ce8ee980$@sympatico.ca> I agree ? the headlamp is hidden under the tarp in the second photo ? that was throwing me off. From: Stephen Hutchings Sent: December 28, 2020 5:08 PM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: John Spaur ; Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] What is this car I think it's a prewar BMW 326. Stephen, BJ8 On Dec 28, 2020, at 5:01 PM, > > wrote: Hmmm.. I immediately went to Bristol 400 or 401, but they were both 2-doors and had headlamps between the fenders and grill. The grill, wheels and windscreen trim definitely look Bristol-like. Second guess was pre-war BMW 328, but again no headlamps and the wheels are wrong. Mirek From: Healeys > On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: December 28, 2020 2:02 PM To: 'Healey List' > Subject: [Healeys] What is this car Will someone identify this car? Thank you, John Spaur ?62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 28 15:41:07 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 14:41:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <00ad01d6dd6a$88a19110$99e4b330$@sbcglobal.net> That helped. It is a 1938 vintage. The father of a friend is redoing the interior for a customer. And yes, the car is located in Chile. John From: Stephen Hutchings [mailto:s.hutchings at rogers.com] Sent: Monday, December 28, 2020 2:10 PM To: John Spaur Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] What is this car Definitely a BMW 326?the grille detail nails it. Stephen On Dec 28, 2020, at 2:02 PM, John Spaur > wrote: Will someone identify this car? Thank you, John Spaur ?62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Dec 28 16:03:31 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 15:03:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What is this car In-Reply-To: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <009f01d6dd4b$f033a350$d09ae9f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Bmw grille pre war Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 11:06 AM John Spaur wrote: > Will someone identify this car? > > > > Thank you, > > > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kags at shaw.ca Mon Dec 28 16:05:41 2020 From: kags at shaw.ca (kags at shaw.ca) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 15:05:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks In-Reply-To: References: <181FA8841AAA402682540C81A42BD58F@AllInOne> <000001d6dcb0$b77d3800$2677a800$@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <000001d6dd6d$fc9427b0$f5bc7710$@shaw.ca> All: Charlie is right - so much for my ageing memory. My tri-carb is trimmed in red - the wood block is covered in matching red material. The carpet is cut around the wood block - I got that right! See attached photo. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys On Behalf Of Charlie Baldwin Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 4:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Earl, What color is the interior in your BT7? I think that the vinyl covering the blocks matches interior color rather than always being black. I'll try to remember to look at my BT7 tricarb tomorrow. My interior is red, so the vinyl over the blocks is most likely red. When I restored the car I matched what was there originally. And I do believe that the carpet is cur around the block as you have stated. Charlie '62 BT7 tricarb On 12/27/2020 7:30 PM, kags at shaw.ca wrote: Harold: It is as John says - single screw down through the centre of the block, and the 3 screws into the block to hold the aluminum finishers in place, trapping the door seal end. The blocks are covered with a thin black vinyl material - the same stuff that is on the spare tire hold down blocks in the boot. And for Joseph: you were enquiring about the same area on the BT7: from memory, I am certain that the carpet piece is cut around the wood blocks. My BT7 (top -shift tri carb) is all original - all softy trim, carpets. Tonneau, soft top, and so is a pretty good example of the way the factory did things. The car has also been judged in concours at a pretty high gold level score. Give me a day or so to get out to the garage (and unpile the car!), and I will confirm all this for both of you, measure the blocks, and get a couple of photos. Earl Kagna Victoria BC BJ8, BT7 tri-carb From: Healeys On Behalf Of Harold Manifold Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2020 12:46 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Wooden Trim Blocks Hello, I need help with another piece missing from my barn find. There is a wooden block that goes under these trim pieces on a BT7. From pictures on the internet the blocks looks to be about 2" square. Is there a hole through the block for a self taping screw that goes though the block, through the quarter panel horizontal metal bracket and into the wheel arch? Are the three holes in aluminum trim piece just to secure it and none of them go through to the wheel arch? What are the dimensions of the wooden block and how it is installed? Thanks... Harold Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 42503 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 362 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: P1030924 - Copy.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 4581755 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Dec 28 18:56:57 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 01:56:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] What's This? References: <744280653.5196704.1609207017979.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <744280653.5196704.1609207017979@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone tell me what this linkage is in this picture?? Not having a complete car to take apart for the restoration, some things were just not there.? Who am I kidding, everything was not there, so no memory or example to go by.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Inkedthrottle link3aa_LI.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1652896 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Dec 28 19:16:14 2020 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 18:16:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] What's This? In-Reply-To: <744280653.5196704.1609207017979@mail.yahoo.com> References: <744280653.5196704.1609207017979@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1A932470-D98A-4357-8615-8944281B0AEA@gmail.com> Connects to the clutch arm on the transmission David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 28, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ? > Can someone tell me what this linkage is in this picture? Not having a complete car to take apart for the restoration, some things were just not there. Who am I kidding, everything was not there, so no memory or example to go by. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Dec 28 20:15:50 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 03:15:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] What's This? In-Reply-To: <1A932470-D98A-4357-8615-8944281B0AEA@gmail.com> References: <744280653.5196704.1609207017979@mail.yahoo.com> <1A932470-D98A-4357-8615-8944281B0AEA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1576849611.5189236.1609211750567@mail.yahoo.com> Wow!? This really was a gimme for you guys.? Never having hooked up a mechanical clutch I had no idea, but should have known from the connection to the clutch pedal.? Duh!? I'm still learning.? Thanks for pointing this out without giving me the business.Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 6:16 PM, David Nock wrote: Connects to the clutch arm on the transmission? David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: ?Can someone tell me what this linkage is in this picture?? Not having a complete car to take apart for the restoration, some things were just not there.? Who am I kidding, everything was not there, so no memory or example to go by.Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Dec 29 16:13:11 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 15:13:11 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit Message-ID: <67A7A943C308499FA2524796852E2211@AllInOne> Hello again, My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. Harold 1960 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: eBay Cockpit Moulding.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2770514 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Tue Dec 29 16:35:01 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 15:35:01 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit In-Reply-To: <67A7A943C308499FA2524796852E2211@AllInOne> References: <67A7A943C308499FA2524796852E2211@AllInOne> Message-ID: Well Harold, you can have the holes in the molding filled and drill them where your doors have holes. There is a drawback. The aluminum of the patches will not look the same after anodizing, or so I have been told. I guess the TIG weld filler is different from the almost pure aluminum of the molding. There may be work-arounds. Or maybe new moldings are available without holes from some supplier. -Roland On Tue, Dec 29, 2020, 3:21 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Hello again, > > My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the > door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on > eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor > reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of > the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding > overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on > the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the > hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the > door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. > > Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could > the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to > find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. > > Harold > > 1960 BT7 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Dec 29 16:43:10 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 23:43:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit In-Reply-To: <67A7A943C308499FA2524796852E2211@AllInOne> References: <67A7A943C308499FA2524796852E2211@AllInOne> Message-ID: Harold, The holes in the door, are they 1/8? off ahead of the ones on the moulding? If so move it ahead so it fits, then your overhang will likely be taken care of then you have to cut the front of the piece so you can close the door with a small gap. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: December 29, 2020 5:23 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit Hello again, My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. Harold 1960 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Tue Dec 29 21:35:05 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 23:35:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] camshaft identification Message-ID: <005d01d6de65$258a4490$709ecdb0$@sympatico.ca> Hi all, I attached a photo of two camshafts I have been lugging around for some 40+ years. They came with a batch of early 3000 engine parts, however, there was a Wolseley bell housing in the mix too. Some of the cams are toast but they may be good as cores for someone. I would like to know what they are from. The second gear drive has me flummoxed. Cheers, Mirek -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: camshafts.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 2796902 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Tue Dec 29 21:41:36 2020 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 17:41:36 +1300 Subject: [Healeys] What's This? In-Reply-To: <1576849611.5189236.1609211750567@mail.yahoo.com> References: <744280653.5196704.1609207017979@mail.yahoo.com> <1A932470-D98A-4357-8615-8944281B0AEA@gmail.com> <1576849611.5189236.1609211750567@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000201d6de66$0fe49f40$2fadddc0$@xtra.co.nz> It hooks up like this, Mike. Mark Ardmore, NZ From: Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, 29 December 2020 4:16 p.m. To: healeydoc at gmail.com; David Nock Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] What's This? Wow! This really was a gimme for you guys. Never having hooked up a mechanical clutch I had no idea, but should have known from the connection to the clutch pedal. Duh! I'm still learning. Thanks for pointing this out without giving me the business. Mike M Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 6:16 PM, David Nock > wrote: Connects to the clutch arm on the transmission David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2020, at 6:02 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: ? Can someone tell me what this linkage is in this picture? Not having a complete car to take apart for the restoration, some things were just not there. Who am I kidding, everything was not there, so no memory or example to go by. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 33787 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 107491 bytes Desc: not available URL: From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Dec 30 03:39:49 2020 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 21:39:49 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] camshaft identification In-Reply-To: <005d01d6de65$258a4490$709ecdb0$@sympatico.ca> References: <005d01d6de65$258a4490$709ecdb0$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: <26BD4FF8-41A6-4E6C-A4AD-46D74CF2A79D@gmail.com> Hi Mirek, One gear drive is for the distributor. The other gear drive is for the oil pump. If the distributor gear drive and the oil pump gear drive are the same dia and number of teeth, then it?s an early cam. If the oil pump gear has an additional tooth, then it?s a later one. I wouldn?t run the earlier one in any car that regularly went past 5,000 rpm. Best Chris > On 30 Dec 2020, at 3:40 pm, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: > > ? > Hi all, I attached a photo of two camshafts I have been lugging around for some 40+ years. They came with a batch of early 3000 engine parts, however, there was a Wolseley bell housing in the mix too. Some of the cams are toast but they may be good as cores for someone. I would like to know what they are from. The second gear drive has me flummoxed. > > Cheers, Mirek > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Dec 30 05:43:36 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 07:43:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] camshaft identification In-Reply-To: <26BD4FF8-41A6-4E6C-A4AD-46D74CF2A79D@gmail.com> References: <005d01d6de65$258a4490$709ecdb0$@sympatico.ca> <26BD4FF8-41A6-4E6C-A4AD-46D74CF2A79D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007901d6dea9$6460c0b0$2d224210$@sympatico.ca> Thanks Chris, I thought the distributor and oil pump were linked and driven off the same gear. Mirek From: Chris Dimmock Sent: December 30, 2020 5:40 AM To: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] camshaft identification Hi Mirek, One gear drive is for the distributor. The other gear drive is for the oil pump. If the distributor gear drive and the oil pump gear drive are the same dia and number of teeth, then it?s an early cam. If the oil pump gear has an additional tooth, then it?s a later one. I wouldn?t run the earlier one in any car that regularly went past 5,000 rpm. Best Chris On 30 Dec 2020, at 3:40 pm, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote: ? Hi all, I attached a photo of two camshafts I have been lugging around for some 40+ years. They came with a batch of early 3000 engine parts, however, there was a Wolseley bell housing in the mix too. Some of the cams are toast but they may be good as cores for someone. I would like to know what they are from. The second gear drive has me flummoxed. Cheers, Mirek _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Dec 30 08:18:26 2020 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 10:18:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit In-Reply-To: References: <67A7A943C308499FA2524796852E2211@AllInOne> Message-ID: Perhaps the 1/8" difference and the "overhang" are the result of the door's being hung slightly (1/8") incorrectly in the opening between the A and B pillars. If so adjust the door and the molding should fit. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 29, 2020, 6:47 PM Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Harold, > > The holes in the door, are they 1/8? off ahead of the ones on the > moulding? If so move it ahead so it fits, then your overhang will likely be > taken care of then you have to cut the front of the piece so you can close > the door with a small gap. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Harold Manifold > *Sent: *December 29, 2020 5:23 PM > *To: *'Healey List' > *Subject: *[Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit > > > > Hello again, > > > > My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the > door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on > eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor > reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of > the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding > overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on > the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the > hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the > door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. > > > > Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could > the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to > find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. > > > > Harold > > > > 1960 BT7 > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cpcooper at ymail.com Wed Dec 30 10:25:11 2020 From: cpcooper at ymail.com (Craig Cooper) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 17:25:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 460 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1746407280.5736131.1609349111188@mail.yahoo.com> BN1 and BN2 doors are about two inches shorter than BT7, so chances are you have the correct part.? I'd be more inclined to MIG weld the holes in the door and re-drill to accommodate the trim piece.? Maybe hold several layers of a very wet towel over the adjacent painted part of the door to keep the heat from the paint as much as possible. Craig On Tuesday, December 29, 2020, 08:45:32 PM PST, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Healeys mailing list submissions to ??? healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit (Harold Manifold) ? 2. Re: Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit (Roland Wilhelmy) ? 3. Re: Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit (Jean Caron) ? 4. camshaft identification (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Hello again,?My?BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping?to get it too?match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes.?Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)??I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door.?Harold?1960 BT7?Well Harold, you can have the holes in the molding filled and drill them where your doors have holes. There is a drawback. The aluminum of the patches will not look the same after anodizing, or so I have been told. I guess the TIG weld filler is different from the almost pure aluminum of the molding. There may be work-arounds. Or maybe new moldings are available without holes from some supplier.? -Roland On Tue, Dec 29, 2020, 3:21 PM Harold Manifold wrote: Hello again,?My?BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping?to get it too?match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes.?Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)??I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door.?Harold?1960 BT7?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com Harold, The holes in the door, are they 1/8? off ahead of the ones on the moulding? If so move it ahead so it fits, then your overhang will likely be taken care of then you have to cut the front of the piece so you can close the door with a small gap. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Harold Manifold Sent: December 29, 2020 5:23 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit ? Hello again, ? My?BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping?to get it too?match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. ? Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)??I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. ? Harold ? 1960 BT7 ? ? Hi all,? I attached a photo of two camshafts I have been lugging around for some 40+ years.? They came with a batch of early 3000 engine parts, however, there was a Wolseley bell housing in the mix too.? Some of the cams are toast but they may be good as cores for someone.? I would like to know what they are from.? The second gear drive has me flummoxed. ? Cheers,? Mirek _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives:? http://autox.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Wed Dec 30 16:28:22 2020 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 15:28:22 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 460 In-Reply-To: <1746407280.5736131.1609349111188@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1746407280.5736131.1609349111188@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7A66413B7B684EBD8FD22267331127F8@AllInOne> Hello, Craig has confirmed my problem moulding is not from a BN1/2 so it looks like the issue is too wide a manufacturing tolerance locating the holes in the moulding. Who would have thought. Here is a picture of the RH and LAHR test fitting on the door. The LAHR fits well and has three screws. The RH has one screw in the forward most location, doesn't cover the edge of the door and the other two holes don't line up. There is no access behind the hole in the door so options are limited. Please let me know if you see anything wrong with the test fit. Thanks... Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Cooper via Healeys Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2020 9:25 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 460 BN1 and BN2 doors are about two inches shorter than BT7, so chances are you have the correct part. I'd be more inclined to MIG weld the holes in the door and re-drill to accommodate the trim piece. Maybe hold several layers of a very wet towel over the adjacent painted part of the door to keep the heat from the paint as much as possible. Craig On Tuesday, December 29, 2020, 08:45:32 PM PST, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit (Harold Manifold) 2. Re: Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit (Roland Wilhelmy) 3. Re: Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit (Jean Caron) 4. camshaft identification (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Hello again, My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. Harold 1960 BT7 Well Harold, you can have the holes in the molding filled and drill them where your doors have holes. There is a drawback. The aluminum of the patches will not look the same after anodizing, or so I have been told. I guess the TIG weld filler is different from the almost pure aluminum of the molding. There may be work-arounds. Or maybe new moldings are available without holes from some supplier. -Roland On Tue, Dec 29, 2020, 3:21 PM Harold Manifold wrote: Hello again, My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. Harold 1960 BT7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com Harold, The holes in the door, are they 1/8" off ahead of the ones on the moulding? If so move it ahead so it fits, then your overhang will likely be taken care of then you have to cut the front of the piece so you can close the door with a small gap. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Harold Manifold Sent: December 29, 2020 5:23 PM To: 'Healey List' Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Moulding Doesn't Fit Hello again, My BT7 was missing the RH aluminum cockpit moulding on the top of the door. I had the other three pieces and bought the missing 4th piece used on eBay. When I went to fit the eBay moulding it required some minor reshaping to get it too match the shape of the door. It fits the shape of the door very well but the holes are off by about 1/8" and the moulding overhangs the rear of the door slightly. I measured the hole location on the eBay piece against the original LH moulding and the distance to the hole from the end is off by the same 1/8". I can't put new holes in the door as the they would be too close to the existing holes. Is this just another example of variation during manufacturing or could the eBay moulding be from an earlier Healey (BA1 or BA2)? I would like to find a solution that doesn't require drilling new holes in the door. Harold 1960 BT7 Hi all, I attached a photo of two camshafts I have been lugging around for some 40+ years. They came with a batch of early 3000 engine parts, however, there was a Wolseley bell housing in the mix too. Some of the cams are toast but they may be good as cores for someone. I would like to know what they are from. The second gear drive has me flummoxed. Cheers, Mirek _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Cockpit Moulding RH.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2564252 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Cockpit Moulding LH.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2105129 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 30 19:09:51 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 02:09:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Cockpit Molding In-Reply-To: <7A66413B7B684EBD8FD22267331127F8@AllInOne> References: <1746407280.5736131.1609349111188@mail.yahoo.com> <7A66413B7B684EBD8FD22267331127F8@AllInOne> Message-ID: <493153956.5890423.1609380591753@mail.yahoo.com> Regarding the aluminum cockpit moldings: Consistency or manufacturing tolerance?locating the holes was not a concern when the moldings were fit to each body and the car numbers stamped on the moldings. It would be interesting to know what order the moldings were test fit, drilled, polished and anodized before the final install on the production line. Perry From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Dec 31 11:30:04 2020 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 18:30:04 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners Message-ID: <000001d6dfa2$f81378d0$e83a6a70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Happy New Year to one and all, (I always think of Eddie Murphy in "Trading Places" when I hear that!) So, we're talking MkII BT7 here.. The bolts that fasten the seat bases to the runners in my car are pretty ratty. One or two are missing and several have had their diameters reduced and rethreaded. Presumably after wearing out. But the slides work and they're fully functional. What is the precise anatomy of these things? The bolts that come up from the part of the runner that moves fore & aft, are they spotwelded in place? Can one split the moving half of the runners from the fixed half? In which case, I presume one can fix in new bolts? Remove hidden nuts or grind off welds and MIG on new bolts? What size are these bolts? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 31 11:58:21 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 10:58:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: <000001d6dfa2$f81378d0$e83a6a70$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6dfa2$f81378d0$e83a6a70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <67f85bfd-f75a-a618-fb7a-e7fb22bab545@comcast.net> Simon, I repaired my BJ8's seat runners a few years ago. Working from memory (so a few things might not be exactly correct): 1) there are pins on each end of the bottom to keep them from going too far/coming apart; I got these out, I think by knocking them out with a drift (be prepared to catch the ball bearings) 2) once the tops/bottoms of the slides are separated, the old studs/bolts can be removed by grinding their heads down (I used a 3" compressed-air cut-off tool) 3) put new bolts of proper diameter and length(IIRC, 5/16 x 1" or so) into the holes you created in #2 (recommend grade 5; grade 8 may not weld too well) 4) tack weld the new bolt heads (small bead on two sides in lengthwise direction; I think the runners may be galvanized, so do not breathe the fumes--respirator would be a good idea) 5) use the cut-off tool to grind the new bolts' heads and welds down enough so the runners can slide 6) I used suitably-sized roll pins to replace the end pins removed in #1--will make it easier to re-do if necessary*--don't forget the ball bearings; they have to be installed 'just so' There were a couple small gotchas--that I don't recall exactly--but they had to do with 'order of replacement;' so pay attention/take photos when you disassemble. Overall, a satisfying project; esp. since new ones aren't cheap. The ball bearings are 5/16" and, of course I lost a couple; I bought a boatload of these from a bearing house, they're used elsewhere (including in gearboxes). Bob * Of course, I immediately stripped one of my new bolts before I realized the power of my new battery impact wrench. On 12/31/2020 10:30 AM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote: > > Happy New Year to one and all, > > (I always think of Eddie Murphy in ?Trading Places? when I hear that!) > > So, we?re talking MkII BT7 here?. > > The bolts that fasten the seat bases to the runners in my car are > pretty ratty. One or two are missing and several have had their > diameters reduced and rethreaded. Presumably after wearing out. But > the slides work and they?re fully functional. > The OEM studs have all the strength of wet noodles. > > What is the precise anatomy of these things? > > The bolts that come up from the part of the runner that moves fore & > aft, are they spotwelded in place? > Yep. They are a 'special' type, with flat heads and round (no sides). > > Can one split the moving half of the runners from the fixed half? > Yep again (see above). > > In which case, I presume one can fix in new bolts? Remove hidden nuts > or grind off welds and MIG on new bolts? > Grind old, weld new, grind new flat. > > What size are these bolts? > 5/16"-24TPI? (I think). IIRC, about an inch long (but not sure). Too long and they'll dig into your seat bottoms (ouch!) > > Thanks, > > Simon > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Dec 31 12:21:32 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 14:21:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slides References: <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5@aol.com> Simon Bobs info is pretty good. Bolts are 1/4-24 unf and they have a round flat head. Originally resistance welded in place. Second photo is where the pins that have to be removed are located. There is a set of ball bearings that you should locate before taking the slides apart. The ball bearings will probably be worn or rusted so find suitable replacements and reinstall in the original locations. Need more just ask. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7898.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 36400 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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I feel it's the least I can do for mankind everywhere. ???Make it a grand celebration wherever you are and here's to a grand 2021! Enjoy! Steven -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Dec 31 13:22:52 2020 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 20:22:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Happy New Year Steven and everyone on the list as well. Yor idea of Tequila and dancing around a fire may have some merit but I?d hold back on the Tequila a bit so you don?t walk through the fire...LOL Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys Sent: December 31, 2020 1:59 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! Happy New Year to all on the list! I truly hope 2021 is a much better year for all and I thought I might drink some Tequila tonight, dance naked around a fire and scare the living day lights out of any nasty spirits thinking of coming in to the new year! I feel it's the least I can do for mankind everywhere. Make it a grand celebration wherever you are and here's to a grand 2021! Enjoy! Steven -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 31 13:45:57 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 12:45:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slides In-Reply-To: <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5@aol.com> References: <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5.ref@aol.com> <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5@aol.com> Message-ID: <3cc8de2a-d27b-4688-4023-cf40f0ebf35b@comcast.net> Wow! Those slides are pretty nasty; was that car submerged for a couple decades? I probably would have sprung for new if they were that bad. Sorry about the bad info on the bolt size. I think it was wishful thinking; 5/16" wouldn't be so easily worn and/or stripped. On 12/31/2020 11:21 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Simon > Bobs info is pretty good. Bolts are 1/4-24 unf and they have a round flat head. Originally resistance welded in place. > Second photo is where the pins that have to be removed are located. > There is a set of ball bearings that you should locate before taking the slides apart. The ball bearings will probably be worn or rusted so find suitable replacements and reinstall in the original locations. Need more just ask. > Perry > > From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Dec 31 14:07:12 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 16:07:12 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat slides In-Reply-To: <3cc8de2a-d27b-4688-4023-cf40f0ebf35b@comcast.net> References: <3cc8de2a-d27b-4688-4023-cf40f0ebf35b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <6D31B98B-62D0-4246-932F-E276D1C91F70@aol.com> My mistake on the seat slide thread size. Should be 1/4 -28tpi I used my thread gauge on a rusty part which is always a bad idea. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 31, 2020, at 3:47 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ?Wow! Those slides are pretty nasty; was that car submerged for a couple decades? I probably would have sprung for new if they were that bad. > > Sorry about the bad info on the bolt size. I think it was wishful thinking; 5/16" wouldn't be so easily worn and/or stripped. > > > >> On 12/31/2020 11:21 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: >> Simon >> Bobs info is pretty good. Bolts are 1/4-24 unf and they have a round flat head. Originally resistance welded in place. >> Second photo is where the pins that have to be removed are located. >> There is a set of ball bearings that you should locate before taking the slides apart. The ball bearings will probably be worn or rusted so find suitable replacements and reinstall in the original locations. Need more just ask. >> Perry >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Thu Dec 31 14:29:21 2020 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 13:29:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3jgsuf58sa34rpd2em2lp1dttgkr1d5kri@4ax.com> Add some Triple Sec and ice, Steven, and I'll join you at the fire. Happier New Year to all. -Roland On Thu, 31 Dec 2020 19:59:00 -0000, you wrote: >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! >From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys >Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 19:59:00 -0000 > Happy New Year to all on the list! I truly hope 2021 is a much better year for all and I thought I might drink some Tequila tonight, dance naked around a fire and scare the living day lights out of any nasty spirits thinking of coming in to the new year! I feel it's the least I can do for mankind everywhere. Make it a grand celebration wherever you are and here's to a grand 2021! Enjoy!Steven -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Thu Dec 31 14:38:17 2020 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 16:38:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: <000001d6dfa2$f81378d0$e83a6a70$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d6dfa2$f81378d0$e83a6a70$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <018101d6dfbd$40ceb570$c26c2050$@sympatico.ca> Simon, I did mine a few years back and although a bit tedious it is well worth the effort. I confirm Perry on the bolt size ? ?? ? 28. The hex heads do have to be reduced in height. I think it would be awkward to do after they are spot welded back in, and I did mine before re-assembly. I actually used a hack saw and cut the heads down and then finished them with a file to get the saw marks out. I would measure the height of the head on the existing studs so you know what to aim for. It is a labour-intensive way to do it but there are not many of them. Once you have it apart I would send both parts of the runners (8 pieces if you are doing both seats) out to get zinc plated, then they will really look good when you are done. Mine slide beautifully now. I replaced the wood and metal shimming beneath the runners while I was at it as the wood was pretty punky. From: Healeys On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: December 31, 2020 1:30 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners Happy New Year to one and all, (I always think of Eddie Murphy in ?Trading Places? when I hear that!) So, we?re talking MkII BT7 here . The bolts that fasten the seat bases to the runners in my car are pretty ratty. One or two are missing and several have had their diameters reduced and rethreaded. Presumably after wearing out. But the slides work and they?re fully functional. What is the precise anatomy of these things? The bolts that come up from the part of the runner that moves fore & aft, are they spotwelded in place? Can one split the moving half of the runners from the fixed half? In which case, I presume one can fix in new bolts? Remove hidden nuts or grind off welds and MIG on new bolts? What size are these bolts? Thanks, Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 31 14:42:09 2020 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 16:42:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Seat Runners In-Reply-To: <018101d6dfbd$40ceb570$c26c2050$@sympatico.ca> References: <000001d6dfa2$f81378d0$e83a6a70$@alexarevel.plus.com> <018101d6dfbd$40ceb570$c26c2050$@sympatico.ca> Message-ID: Real Healeys don't have seat slides ??? Happy New Year everyone. M On Thu., Dec. 31, 2020, 4:40 p.m. , wrote: > Simon, I did mine a few years back and although a bit tedious it is well > worth the effort. I confirm Perry on the bolt size ? ?? ? 28. The hex > heads do have to be reduced in height. I think it would be awkward to do > after they are spot welded back in, and I did mine before re-assembly. I > actually used a hack saw and cut the heads down and then finished them > with a file to get the saw marks out. I would measure the height of the > head on the existing studs so you know what to aim for. It is a > labour-intensive way to do it but there are not many of them. Once you > have it apart I would send both parts of the runners (8 pieces if you are > doing both seats) out to get zinc plated, then they will really look good > when you are done. Mine slide beautifully now. I replaced the wood and > metal shimming beneath the runners while I was at it as the wood was pretty > punky. > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of * > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com > *Sent:* December 31, 2020 1:30 PM > *To:* 'Healeys' > *Subject:* [Healeys] Seat Runners > > > > Happy New Year to one and all, > > (I always think of Eddie Murphy in ?Trading Places? when I hear that!) > > So, we?re talking MkII BT7 here?. > > The bolts that fasten the seat bases to the runners in my car are pretty > ratty. One or two are missing and several have had their diameters reduced > and rethreaded. Presumably after wearing out. But the slides work and > they?re fully functional. > > What is the precise anatomy of these things? > > The bolts that come up from the part of the runner that moves fore & aft, > are they spotwelded in place? > > Can one split the moving half of the runners from the fixed half? > > In which case, I presume one can fix in new bolts? Remove hidden nuts or > grind off welds and MIG on new bolts? > > What size are these bolts? > > Thanks, > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Dec 31 14:55:46 2020 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 13:55:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There's an image Ill have trouble getting out my head. Happy new year to you too. Ira Erbs 1959 AH 100-6 1967 MGB Milwaukie, OR On Thu, Dec 31, 2020, 11:59 AM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Happy New Year to all on the list! I truly hope 2021 is a much better > year for all and I thought I might drink some Tequila tonight, dance naked > around a fire and scare the living day lights out of any nasty spirits > thinking of coming in to the new year! I feel it's the least I can do for > mankind everywhere. > Make it a grand celebration wherever you are and here's to a grand > 2021! Enjoy! > Steven > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Dec 31 15:53:04 2020 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 22:53:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Seat slides In-Reply-To: <3cc8de2a-d27b-4688-4023-cf40f0ebf35b@comcast.net> References: <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5.ref@aol.com> <8B307CB5-3431-41D8-B097-6C9F4CBB68D5@aol.com> <3cc8de2a-d27b-4688-4023-cf40f0ebf35b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <233731329.6127798.1609455184254@mail.yahoo.com> Bob / Listers That seat slide came from a car that spent its life in Hawaii.? When you dream of a white sand beach, living beach front or other tropical locales, think rust and corrosion.? When an AH sets outside and the rain soaks the carpet and floor pans (include seat slides here) repeatedly it takes its toll. During the restoration of a car like this little things creep back into your mind:? Like: I should have fixed that broken zipper on the tonneau cover, How many times did I leave the top down while the car was parked overnight in the driveway. It only rains how many days a year on the windward side of Oahu What do you mean ;the scuttle seals are there to keep the water out? This car did not end up being restored. See attached photo This is a reasonably complete car. It was delivered to the house on a trailer and pushed back the driveway (first photo). When I got home from work and decided to open the doors to start cleaning up things, I popped the left door outside handle and it seemed stuck. Pulled the inside handle and then pulled on the door and the second photo was the result. Good thing the driveshaft was still in place because it was the only thing keeping the rusted through frame rails, sills and floors from hitting the ground or my foot. Good memories! Happy New Year To All.... Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: BJ7.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 25570 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 31 17:14:40 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 16:14:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to seal that? John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 31 17:52:29 2020 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 16:52:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <5c52a4ab-6285-503f-94ec-e923ae80a4c3@comcast.net> First, rule out pinhole leaks from the tank. Working from memory--I'm zero for one today--the wire-wound resistor and slider are housed in a small, box-like housing; is this what you're referring to? If so, I don't think any vendors have a gasket for the screwed-on 'lid,' but you can make a gasket and put some fuel-resistant sealer on it. If there's an actual terminal, separate from the box, that comes through the box, I'd probably use a good epoxy. This is a sealer I've had success with: *https://tinyurl.com/ya22sjep * On 12/31/2020 4:14 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming > from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to > seal that? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Dec 31 18:15:28 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 20:15:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> John, If you take the nuts and the heavy paper insulation off the screw, you'll see the screw goes through a? white plastic sleeve that isolates the screw from the body of the sending unit.? The sleeve also holds the ground wire in place - there's a groove along the bottom of the hole in the body that the ground wire sits in.? The sleeve provides the seal.? Don't twist the screw - the lead to the wound resistor is soldered to the screw. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/31/20 7:14 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming > from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to > seal that? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Dec 31 18:18:57 2020 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 20:18:57 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <414e460f-e176-81f7-f8c6-df426d260e93@earthlink.net> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Thu Dec 31 18:52:47 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 20:52:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! In-Reply-To: <3jgsuf58sa34rpd2em2lp1dttgkr1d5kri@4ax.com> References: <3jgsuf58sa34rpd2em2lp1dttgkr1d5kri@4ax.com> Message-ID: <03a201d6dfe0$ce5a2190$6b0e64b0$@gmail.com> Here in subtropical SWFL we enjoy a glass of Hot Buttered Rum with friends and family. Our grand children our with us, this is not a crowd, and we are Streaming Sole for New Years. Wishing all of you a Happy New Year, Bob Begani ---Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 4:29 PM To: Steven Kingsbury Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Happy New Year! Add some Triple Sec and ice, Steven, and I'll join you at the fire. Happier New Year to all. -Roland On Thu, 31 Dec 2020 19:59:00 -0000, you wrote: >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Subject: [Healeys] Happy New Year! >From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys >Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 19:59:00 -0000 > Happy New Year to all on the list! I truly hope 2021 is a much better year for all and I thought I might drink some Tequila tonight, dance naked around a fire and scare the living day lights out of any nasty spirits thinking of coming in to the new year! I feel it's the least I can do for mankind everywhere. Make it a grand celebration wherever you are and here's to a grand 2021! Enjoy!Steven -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com From rfbegani at gmail.com Thu Dec 31 18:58:33 2020 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 20:58:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> Bob: I have installed a silicone gasket and still fuel enters the boot. What is this white plastic sleeve? Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 8:15 PM To: John Spaur ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak John, If you take the nuts and the heavy paper insulation off the screw, you'll see the screw goes through a? white plastic sleeve that isolates the screw from the body of the sending unit.? The sleeve also holds the ground wire in place - there's a groove along the bottom of the hole in the body that the ground wire sits in.? The sleeve provides the seal. Don't twist the screw - the lead to the wound resistor is soldered to the screw. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/31/20 7:14 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming > from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to > seal that? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 31 19:28:05 2020 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2020 18:28:05 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -----Original Message----- From: rfbegani at gmail.com [mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 5:59 PM To: 'Bob Haskell' ; 'John Spaur' ; 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Bob: I have installed a silicone gasket and still fuel enters the boot. What is this white plastic sleeve? Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 8:15 PM To: John Spaur ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak John, If you take the nuts and the heavy paper insulation off the screw, you'll see the screw goes through a? white plastic sleeve that isolates the screw from the body of the sending unit.? The sleeve also holds the ground wire in place - there's a groove along the bottom of the hole in the body that the ground wire sits in.? The sleeve provides the seal. Don't twist the screw - the lead to the wound resistor is soldered to the screw. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/31/20 7:14 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming > from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to > seal that? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: 20201231_181445.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2550752 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Dec 31 20:08:34 2020 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2021 03:08:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> References: <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <016a01d6dfd3$198c58d0$4ca50a70$@sbcglobal.net> <2fc7b9cf-8440-da02-2aa1-e12db2a1def2@earthlink.net> <03a301d6dfe1$9cc77000$d6565000$@gmail.com> <017d01d6dfe5$bd298cd0$377ca670$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <295315497.6152104.1609470514753@mail.yahoo.com> If it is coming through the gasket between the unit and the tank, I used Hallmark.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Dec 31, 2020 at 6:34 PM, John Spaur wrote: Here are some photos of a new Moss after-market sender showing the sleeve. It seems to be glued in place. -----Original Message----- From: rfbegani at gmail.com [mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 5:59 PM To: 'Bob Haskell' ; 'John Spaur' ; 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak Bob: I have installed a silicone gasket and still fuel enters the boot.? What is this white plastic sleeve? Bob Begani -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2020 8:15 PM To: John Spaur ; 'Healey List' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel sender leak John, If you take the nuts and the heavy paper insulation off the screw, you'll see the screw goes through a? white plastic sleeve that isolates the screw from the body of the sending unit.? The sleeve also holds the ground wire in place - there's a groove along the bottom of the hole in the body that the ground wire sits in.? The sleeve provides the seal. Don't twist the screw - the lead to the wound resistor is soldered to the screw. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/31/20 7:14 PM, John Spaur wrote: > > I noticed the smell of petrol in the healey boot. I think it is coming > from the sender electrical post connection. What are people using to > seal that? > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: