[Healeys] Re - LEDs should not be used for signal indicators

[John Harper]

Just a small detail. The early flasher types FL2 and FL3 with screw
terminals (not Lucar) did not have a bi-metal strip but an actuating wire.
See attached (Internal.jpg)

When current passed this wire became nearly red hot and expanded until it
relaxed its hold of the over-centre contact that tripped and
removed current flow. When the actuator wire cooled it became shorter
causing the contacts to make and re start the heating cycle.

This wire system is not very robust and is the reason for saying *do not
drop*. It does not like heat which is why it should be mounted inside the
car and not in the engine compartment.. It will only function correctly if
the load is between 36 and 40 watts. LED lamps take less than that so a
resistor needs to be added across all the LED lamps.

If there is a short or perhaps say 4 lamps rather 2 connected by mistake
the actuator wire is likely to be burnt out and the unit beyond repair

On Sun, 23 Aug 2020 at 10:52, mike brooks via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The reason is that the original electro mechanical flasher unit needs a
> reasonably accurate 36- 42 watts to operate the bi- metallic strip at the
> correct tick tock rate. This is why if one bulb fails, the flasher unit
> changes speed. LEDs take so little current that the total wattage of two
> LEDs is only a fraction of that necessary. The guy who has two incandescent
> bulbs and an LED side indicator will be fine, because the front and back
> bulbs are providing the wattage.  An LED bulb in the dashboard light will
> work fine.
>
> The best fix is LED bulbs all round with an electronic flasher unit. It is
> possible to get an electronic flasher built in to an original looking case
> (try Better Car Lighting website or DIY)
>
> Mike
> 56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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