From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sat Jun 1 02:05:41 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2019 09:05:41 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Engine mountings Message-ID: <000001d51850$cefd1340$6cf739c0$@alexarevel.plus.com> My thanks for all the advice. I knew to use tapered punches and even made another one of "just the right size" so I could wedge it in while attending to the neighbouring hole(s). Of course, each hole presented more of a problem than its predecessors and the last one was a holy terror. Only ever a millimetre or two it, but what millimetres they were. The very last hole was the most stubborn despite all the other bolts being in and perilously loose. In the end, my son-in-law did the brute strength and I did the ignorance. We even had my wife heaving on a fence post at one stage. Let's hope they stay there. Forever. Simon -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jun 1 16:20:37 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2019 15:20:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Message-ID: Aluminum radiator swap update: Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked. Will reinstall my flex fan refill with coolant/water have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts. Fun with old cars Registered for a car show on June 8th.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JPOWERS316 at msn.com Sat Jun 1 17:42:23 2019 From: JPOWERS316 at msn.com (Joe Powers) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2019 23:42:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Angle Drive Message-ID: My angle drive lost it?s drive. The speedometer quit and after looking things over the gear going into the transmission had fallen out. It was sitting on the frame and with a magnet I found the cover and another disc that must be a spacer. All seems OK. Is that everything? What?s a good grease to use? And does the cover just press fit in? Any tips on easy installation? Thanks, Joe Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Jun 1 18:10:34 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2019 17:10:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Angle Drive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001101d518d7$99e22e70$cda68b50$@sbcglobal.net> You need to use a drift to dimple fit it in about three spots around the edge. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Powers Sent: Saturday, June 1, 2019 4:42 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Angle Drive My angle drive lost it's drive. The speedometer quit and after looking things over the gear going into the transmission had fallen out. It was sitting on the frame and with a magnet I found the cover and another disc that must be a spacer. All seems OK. Is that everything? What's a good grease to use? And does the cover just press fit in? Any tips on easy installation? Thanks, Joe Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sun Jun 2 00:53:51 2019 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 08:53:51 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep the car propperly maintained and when you use the old car only occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no problem with an old car. PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 Von: "i erbs" An: "Ahealey help" Aluminum radiator swap update: Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked. Will reinstall my flex fan refill with coolant/water have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts. Fun with old cars Registered for a car show on June 8th.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jun 2 02:19:17 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 10:19:17 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> References: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> Message-ID: <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> Yes and no. An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that many classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an electric fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled. An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just cheap to manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency. What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature of the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger delta T, fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant flow, enlarging the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows (up to a point), larger matrix or increase the air flow through the radiator, i.e. improved cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher engine idling speed but most of all a thermostatically controlled fan in combination with a carefully chosen thermostat and thermoswitch. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de: > > When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep > the car propperly maintained? and when you use the old car only > occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no > problem with an old car. > > PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as > it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap > > Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 > > Von: "i erbs" > > An: "Ahealey help" > > Aluminum radiator swap update: > Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. > spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and > then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and initial > trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum > radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach > to my car. I am outside of the return window. > So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked. > Will reinstall my flex fan > refill with coolant/water > have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. > I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the > holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts. > Fun with old cars > Registered for a car show on June 8th.... > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > ? ? ? _______ ? ? ?_______ > ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > 1967 MGB MG > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > ? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Jun 2 03:10:58 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 19:10:58 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit In-Reply-To: References: <004201d512c9$dc3b06c0$94b11440$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <001a01d51923$18f07820$4ad16860$@tpg.com.au> Greetings All fixed and running as I wanted it to. Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me know their thoughts. Much appreciated! As much as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch control of the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 1948 and the under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looked out of place and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wire from the input of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse to a switch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radiator. Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course send the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it was controlled by the thermo switch. I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet looks like it did when it left the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit Hi Patrick, I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your fan system. You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in mind. To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition switched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fuse to protect the fan circuit. I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking. M On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, wrote: Hello Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics. My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. Personally I don?t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch. Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out. Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn?t like what I have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that work? Any electrical whizzes out there? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sun Jun 2 03:25:23 2019 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 11:25:23 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> References: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1559467523509.3064804.bb11712f803c915f64bc04e6f31d8a53f8d83072@spica.telekom.de> Kees, The running temperature of an Austin-Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 engine is already relatively high. There is no need to increase it. But you need to have engine and radiator in as good as closely to new condition. That means no crude in the water channels of the engine or radiator. Some high effeciancy core radiators are also counterproductive, as they hinder the flush of the water through the radiator. My experiance of 40 years with Austin-Healeys and others like MG As, Triumph TR2-3as, etc. are to kkeep everything to factory spec and the car runs absolutely fine in normal traffic. Personally I avoid motorways with high traffic and always congestions and driving through big cities like Cologne, Munich, Stuttgart, Amsterdam, etc. from traffic light to traffic light. But those big cities I even avoid to go in with my modern car as its a nightmare meanwhile. I better use public transport for going in when I need to go. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T10:21:09+0200 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Yes and no. An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that many classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an electric fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled. An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just cheap to manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency. What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature of the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger delta T, fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant flow, enlarging the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows (up to a point), larger matrix or increase the air flow through the radiator, i.e. improved cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher engine idling speed but most of all a thermostatically controlled fan in combination with a carefully chosen thermostat and thermoswitch. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de : When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep the car propperly maintained and when you use the old car only occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no problem with an old car. PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 Von: "i erbs" An: "Ahealey help" Aluminum radiator swap update: Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked. Will reinstall my flex fan refill with coolant/water have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts. Fun with old cars Registered for a car show on June 8th.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jun 2 04:19:15 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 12:19:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <1559467523509.3064804.bb11712f803c915f64bc04e6f31d8a53f8d83072@spica.telekom.de> References: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> <1559467523509.3064804.bb11712f803c915f64bc04e6f31d8a53f8d83072@spica.telekom.de> Message-ID: <5f0bdbc6-83a9-fb38-ba51-acc33d426906@chello.nl> Hi Josef, I agree fully with you that the running gear should be kept in perfect condition to avoid problems. Not always the case in the US where maintenance has a different meaning than in Europe. Cooling problems can arise from a lean mixture or wrong ignition timing to silted up engines and radiators due to lack of use of proper coolant. I have seen horribly silted up engines and radiators from the US and UK incl. in my own Californian car. If I am correct the thermostat opening temperature on the A-H?s is either 72?C or 76?C (US spec) which is more or less average. You could easily go up to 86?C with a 10psi radiator cap and proper hoses, preferably reinforced PU. A good high efficiency radiator core should not hinder coolant flow and it even would offer less resistance to flow. However there will generally be a slight increase in airflow resistance. Some inferior designs may hinder the airflow through the core considerably. Go to a proper radiator expert restorer and do not always trust the guy around the corner offering a cheap service. He may be an expert in soldering but does not always understand the workings of a cooling system. I am afraid I am in no position in the Netherlands to avoid heavy traffic, even in relaxed classic car events, so I stick with an improved radiator core, 86?C opening thermostat and a properly set up thermostatically controlled fan (98?C in, 92?C out), fixed fan removed. Only let me down once when the fuse blew in the middle of a hold up during an event. I also use my car a fair bit except when there is salt on the roads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-6-2019 om 11:25 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de: > > Kees, > > The running temperature of an Austin-Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 engine > is already relatively high. There is no need to increase it. But you > need to have engine and radiator in as good as closely to new > condition. That means no crude in the water channels of the engine or > radiator. Some high effeciancy core radiators are also > counterproductive, as they hinder the flush of the water through the > radiator. > > My experiance of 40 years with Austin-Healeys and others like MG As, > Triumph TR2-3as, etc. are to kkeep everything to factory spec and the > car runs absolutely fine in normal traffic. Personally I avoid > motorways with high traffic and always congestions and driving through > big cities like Cologne, Munich, Stuttgart, Amsterdam, etc. from > traffic light to traffic light. But those big cities I even avoid to > go in with my modern car as its a nightmare meanwhile. > > I better use public transport for going in when I need to go. > > Josef Eckert > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] alum radiator swap > > Datum: 2019-06-02T10:21:09+0200 > > Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" > > An: "healeys at autox.team.net" > > Yes and no. > > An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or > occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that > many classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an > electric fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled. > > An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at > all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just > cheap to manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency. > > What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature > of the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger > delta T, fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant > flow, enlarging the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows > (up to a point), larger matrix or increase the air flow through the > radiator, i.e. improved cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher > engine idling speed but most of all a thermostatically controlled fan > in combination with a carefully chosen thermostat and thermoswitch. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de: > > When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you > keep the car propperly maintained? and when you use the old car > only occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there > is no problem with an old car. > > PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car > as it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. > > Josef Eckert > > K?nigswinter/Germany > > -----Original-Nachricht----- > > Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap > > Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 > > Von: "i erbs" > > An: "Ahealey help" > > Aluminum radiator swap update: > Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. > spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect > and then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and > initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and > the aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be > needed to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. > So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and > tanked. > Will reinstall my flex fan > refill with coolant/water > have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved > unit. > I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in > the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for > the bolts. > Fun with old cars > Registered for a car show on June 8th.... > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > 1967 MGB MG > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sun Jun 2 06:10:24 2019 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 14:10:24 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <5f0bdbc6-83a9-fb38-ba51-acc33d426906@chello.nl> References: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> <1559467523509.3064804.bb11712f803c915f64bc04e6f31d8a53f8d83072@spica.telekom.de> <5f0bdbc6-83a9-fb38-ba51-acc33d426906@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1559477424107.3079955.b55673a83d4c641420ac33e5bddc26f7b6662452@spica.telekom.de> Hi Kees, You cannot compare your Jensen Healey cooling system with the one from an Austin-Healey. The design of the water pumps on the Austin-Healey allows you 4 (AH100) or 7psi (AH 6cylinders) . Opening of thermostat is 74? C or 82?C, which make a small difference in hot temperatures in Summer. The Austin-Healey engines tend to heat up very much in hill up driving. You really can see the needle going up to over 95? C, but when going down or even surface it cools down to opening temperature of the thermostat. With the 74? you have a better buffer/distance to the boiling point for the next hill up or traffic light to traffic light in cities. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T12:19:27+0200 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" , "Healey, Forum" Hi Josef, I agree fully with you that the running gear should be kept in perfect condition to avoid problems. Not always the case in the US where maintenance has a different meaning than in Europe. Cooling problems can arise from a lean mixture or wrong ignition timing to silted up engines and radiators due to lack of use of proper coolant. I have seen horribly silted up engines and radiators from the US and UK incl. in my own Californian car. If I am correct the thermostat opening temperature on the A-H?s is either 72?C or 76?C (US spec) which is more or less average. You could easily go up to 86?C with a 10psi radiator cap and proper hoses, preferably reinforced PU. A good high efficiency radiator core should not hinder coolant flow and it even would offer less resistance to flow. However there will generally be a slight increase in airflow resistance. Some inferior designs may hinder the airflow through the core considerably. Go to a proper radiator expert restorer and do not always trust the guy around the corner offering a cheap service. He may be an expert in soldering but does not always understand the workings of a cooling system. I am afraid I am in no position in the Netherlands to avoid heavy traffic, even in relaxed classic car events, so I stick with an improved radiator core, 86?C opening thermostat and a properly set up thermostatically controlled fan (98?C in, 92?C out), fixed fan removed. Only let me down once when the fuse blew in the middle of a hold up during an event. I also use my car a fair bit except when there is salt on the roads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-6-2019 om 11:25 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de : Kees, The running temperature of an Austin-Healey 100, 100/6 and 3000 engine is already relatively high. There is no need to increase it. But you need to have engine and radiator in as good as closely to new condition. That means no crude in the water channels of the engine or radiator. Some high effeciancy core radiators are also counterproductive, as they hinder the flush of the water through the radiator. My experiance of 40 years with Austin-Healeys and others like MG As, Triumph TR2-3as, etc. are to kkeep everything to factory spec and the car runs absolutely fine in normal traffic. Personally I avoid motorways with high traffic and always congestions and driving through big cities like Cologne, Munich, Stuttgart, Amsterdam, etc. from traffic light to traffic light. But those big cities I even avoid to go in with my modern car as its a nightmare meanwhile. I better use public transport for going in when I need to go. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T10:21:09+0200 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" Yes and no. An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that many classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an electric fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled. An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just cheap to manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency. What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature of the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger delta T, fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant flow, enlarging the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows (up to a point), larger matrix or increase the air flow through the radiator, i.e. improved cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher engine idling speed but most of all a thermostatically controlled fan in combination with a carefully chosen thermostat and thermoswitch. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de : When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep the car propperly maintained and when you use the old car only occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no problem with an old car. PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 Von: "i erbs" An: "Ahealey help" Aluminum radiator swap update: Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked. Will reinstall my flex fan refill with coolant/water have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts. Fun with old cars Registered for a car show on June 8th.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jun 2 08:13:56 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 07:13:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> References: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> Message-ID: While we're (sort of) on topic, what is the List wisdom on the efficacy of fitting side vents to the front wings (a la rally cars)?? Since, supposedly, a big part of the issue with Healeys overheating is insufficient airflow through the engine bay, I'd expect them to help quite a bit.? Or, or they 'useless' as well, since the main overheating issue is stopped at idle? Not sure if the louvers on my 100M help.? It still gets a bit warm stopped at idle, but not as much as my BJ8 (but I haven't driven the M as much, smaller engine, etc.). Bob On 6/2/2019 1:19 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > Yes and no. > > An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or > occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that > many classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an > electric fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled. > > An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at > all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just > cheap to manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency. > > What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature > of the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger > delta T, fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant > flow, enlarging the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows > (up to a point), larger matrix or increase the air flow through the > radiator, i.e. improved cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher > engine idling speed but most of all a thermostatically controlled fan > in combination with a carefully chosen thermostat and thermoswitch. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de: >> >> When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep >> the car propperly maintained? and when you use the old car only >> occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no >> problem with an old car. >> >> PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as >> it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. >> >> Josef Eckert >> >> K?nigswinter/Germany >> >> -----Original-Nachricht----- >> >> Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap >> >> Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 >> >> Von: "i erbs" >> >> An: "Ahealey help" >> >> Aluminum radiator swap update: >> Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. >> spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and >> then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and >> initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the >> aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed >> to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. >> So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and >> tanked. >> Will reinstall my flex fan >> refill with coolant/water >> have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. >> I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in >> the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the >> bolts. >> Fun with old cars >> Registered for a car show on June 8th.... >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ?_______ >> ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes >> 1967 MGB MG >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> ? >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Sun Jun 2 09:07:11 2019 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 17:07:11 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: References: <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de> <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1559488031917.3086517.3da3b737a1f584958619d4f31d0b208d268e1b86@spica.telekom.de> My opinion. Side vents help at speeds above app. 70 miles/h for race cars. Louvers are just a gimmick. help nothing, only cause trouble in rain (mainly when car is parked somewhere). Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T16:16:51+0200 Von: "Bob Spidell" An: "healeys at autox.team.net" While we're (sort of) on topic, what is the List wisdom on the efficacy of fitting side vents to the front wings (a la rally cars)? Since, supposedly, a big part of the issue with Healeys overheating is insufficient airflow through the engine bay, I'd expect them to help quite a bit. Or, or they 'useless' as well, since the main overheating issue is stopped at idle? Not sure if the louvers on my 100M help. It still gets a bit warm stopped at idle, but not as much as my BJ8 (but I haven't driven the M as much, smaller engine, etc.). Bob On 6/2/2019 1:19 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: Yes and no. An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that many classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an electric fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled. An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just cheap to manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency. What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature of the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger delta T, fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant flow, enlarging the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows (up to a point), larger matrix or increase the air flow through the radiator, i.e. improved cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher engine idling speed but most of all a thermostatically controlled fan in combination with a carefully chosen thermostat and thermoswitch. Kees Oudesluijs Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de : When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep the car propperly maintained and when you use the old car only occasionally for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no problem with an old car. PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as it improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200 Von: "i erbs" An: "Ahealey help" Aluminum radiator swap update: Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of the return window. So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked. Will reinstall my flex fan refill with coolant/water have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit. I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts. Fun with old cars Registered for a car show on June 8th.... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alsemus1 at gmail.com Sun Jun 2 18:46:50 2019 From: alsemus1 at gmail.com (Albert Seminatore) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 17:46:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap Message-ID: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks.............. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 2 20:01:50 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 02:01:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: In my humble view 190 isn?t an issue: except as in my case I get a vapor lock so fuel starvation is the issue. But at highway speeds, 180 is the norm. Stop lights get me to 190?s and vapor lock ( in the summer) not so much other times. After 20 minutes of cooling, I can go again. Mine is ORM radiator and 4 blade fan; new water pump and fan shroad Regards, Richard C On Jun 2, 2019, at 19:47, Albert Seminatore > wrote: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks.............. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Jun 2 21:03:22 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 03:03:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap: typo correction In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: OEM , original radiator not ORM Regards, Richard C On Jun 2, 2019, at 21:01, Richard Collins > wrote: In my humble view 190 isn?t an issue: except as in my case I get a vapor lock so fuel starvation is the issue. But at highway speeds, 180 is the norm. Stop lights get me to 190?s and vapor lock ( in the summer) not so much other times. After 20 minutes of cooling, I can go again. Mine is ORM radiator and 4 blade fan; new water pump and fan shroad Regards, Richard C On Jun 2, 2019, at 19:47, Albert Seminatore > wrote: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks.............. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jun 2 21:33:07 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 20:33:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: so the idle stall at 190+ temp could be vapor lock?? I missed the obvious while troubleshooting. My car started running hot 192 and then above while driving on the freeway in 90 heat . or it would spritz water out around the radiator cap. I replaced it twice. might be a crack in one of the welds. I am going to take my oem unit to a radiator shop to have then pressure check it. Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 7:02 PM Richard Collins wrote: > In my humble view 190 isn?t an issue: except as in my case I get a vapor > lock so fuel starvation is the issue. But at highway speeds, 180 is the > norm. Stop lights get me to 190?s and vapor lock ( in the summer) not so > much other times. > After 20 minutes of cooling, I can go again. > Mine is ORM radiator and 4 blade fan; new water pump and fan shroad > > Regards, > Richard C > > > On Jun 2, 2019, at 19:47, Albert Seminatore wrote: > > Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. > First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex > fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. > Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp > went to almost 190F. > > Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% > increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. > Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. > > Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it > made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). > Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered > on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the > plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. > > Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? > If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove > the flex fan completely? > Would a four core radiator be of any help? > Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to > 190F without a worry? > I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to > Las Vegas. > Thanks.............. Al > > -- > Albert Seminatore > Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV > eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sun Jun 2 22:01:28 2019 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 02 Jun 2019 21:01:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3869fet482csol9alfchpgd5c7n0m4jdto@4ax.com> I agree with Richard C. If you have the standard 7 psi radiator cap (and it is working) the coolant won't boil at 212F (exact boiling temp depends also on how much antifreeze). In my opinion 190F is nothing to worry about unless you stop and the fuel in the float chambers starts to boil. We drove our BJ7 up over Cahuenga Pass into the LA basin with air temps above 100F. That's stop and go traffic. I watched the temp needle start to work its way out of the temp gauge part of the dial and approach the oil pressure part but the car kept on running and there was no place to pull out of traffic anyhow. No sign of boil over. No fun for the driver, though. -Roland On Sun, 2 Jun 2019 17:46:50 -0700, you wrote: >Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. >First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex >fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. > Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went >to almost 190F. > >Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% >increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. > Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. > >Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it >made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). > Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered >on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the >plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. > > Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? > If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove >the flex fan completely? > Would a four core radiator be of any help? > Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F >without a worry? >I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las >Vegas. >Thanks.............. Al From david at dleong.org Sun Jun 2 22:16:32 2019 From: david at dleong.org (David Leong) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 04:16:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? Message-ID: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> Spotted at Sears Point today [cid:image001.jpg at 01D51988.70B5B1A0] Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40001 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Jun 2 22:22:45 2019 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E.A. Driver) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 22:22:45 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> Message-ID: <252f4215-2c99-fa54-20b7-d3787cd8233b@sasktel.net> Nice paint job!!! Cheers Ed On 02/06/2019 10:16 p.m., David Leong wrote: > > Spotted at Sears Point today > > */Dave/* > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40001 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Jun 2 22:54:51 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 04:54:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <252f4215-2c99-fa54-20b7-d3787cd8233b@sasktel.net> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro>, <252f4215-2c99-fa54-20b7-d3787cd8233b@sasktel.net> Message-ID: That is the new way to do duotone! Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of E.A. Driver Sent: Sunday, June 2, 2019 11:22:45 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? Nice paint job!!! Cheers Ed On 02/06/2019 10:16 p.m., David Leong wrote: Spotted at Sears Point today [cid:part1.3DBF76C9.3C501FB6 at sasktel.net] Dave _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/edriver at sasktel.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40001 bytes Desc: image001.jpg URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jun 3 00:21:45 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 08:21:45 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore: > Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. > First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc..? Then I put in a > flex fan.? Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. > ??? Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp > went to almost 190F. > > Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD.? Said it gave him 20% > increase in cooling.? So being foolish I bought one. > ??? Results: Absolutely NO change.? Well it lightened my pocket book. > > Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed > it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). > Results:? I started to make the shroud BUT.? The fan is not centered > on the radiator.?? The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator.? So > the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. > > Questions:? Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? > ? ? ? ? ? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex > fan completely? > Would a four core radiator be of any help? > ??????????????? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F > without a worry? > I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get > to Las Vegas. > Thanks.............. Al > > -- > Albert Seminatore > Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV > eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Jun 3 00:39:01 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 16:39:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> References: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> Message-ID: <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> Hello I agree with Kees, 190?F is no big deal. The gauges fitted to Austin-Healeys read to 230?F and when the needle goes past that is when you should start worrying. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Monday, 3 June 2019 4:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks.............. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jun 3 01:05:22 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 00:05:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> <252f4215-2c99-fa54-20b7-d3787cd8233b@sasktel.net> Message-ID: I think we've started a meme. On 6/2/2019 9:54 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > That is the new way to do duotone! > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of E.A. > Driver > *Sent:* Sunday, June 2, 2019 11:22:45 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? > Nice paint job!!! > Cheers > Ed > > On 02/06/2019 10:16 p.m., David Leong wrote: >> >> Spotted at Sears Point today >> >> */Dave/* >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40001 bytes Desc: not available URL: From per at schoerner.se Mon Jun 3 03:53:15 2019 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:53:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit In-Reply-To: <001a01d51923$18f07820$4ad16860$@tpg.com.au> References: <004201d512c9$dc3b06c0$94b11440$@tpg.com.au> <001a01d51923$18f07820$4ad16860$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <73CF456B-F69A-477D-8E3B-2926CA6795C4@schoerner.se> Patrick Ideally you should control a relay by that switch, and connect the relay directly to the battery and the fan. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 2 juni 2019 kl. 11:10 skrev Patrick & Caroline Quinn : > > Greetings > > All fixed and running as I wanted it to. > > Many thanks to everyone who took the trouble to write and let me know their thoughts. Much appreciated! > > As much as realise that they work, I wanted to remove the thermo switch control of the electric fan. Remember this is a real Healey that dates from 1948 and the under-bonnet switch with its wires and capillary tube just looked out of place and plain ugly. What I eventually did was to run a power wire from the input of the combined ignition/light switch, through an inline fuse to a switch and on to the fan which is earthed at the side of the radiator. > > Works well and does not impact on the ignition light. It does of course send the ammeter needle way into the negative, but it did that before when it was controlled by the thermo switch. > > I managed to hide the wires so under the bonnet looks like it did when it left the Donald Healey Motor Company in 1948. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] > Sent: Saturday, 25 May 2019 9:09 PM > To: Patrick and Caroline Quinn > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ignition Circuit > > Hi Patrick, I would agree that using the fused connection on the "ignition switched" side of the fuse block as the source would be a good idea. The ignition switch is not fuse protected so by using that as a source you do run a risk of "letting the smoke out" should a short to ground occur in your fan system. > You may find that the electrical demands of your fan are more than the fuses can handle as the system was not designed with heavy continuous loads in mind. > To circumvent that issue you could use the unfused side of the "ignition switched" section of the fuse block as the source and install an "in line" fuse to protect the fan circuit. > I cannot overemphasize the importance of protecting the fan circuit with a fuse, it very easy to damage a wiring harness and replacing one is a major undertaking. > > M > > On Sat, May 25, 2019, 3:17 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, wrote: > Hello > Seeking advice from those who understand automotive electrics. > My real Healey has an electric fan in front of the radiator that was controlled by a thermo switch. Worked reasonably well, but drew quite a bit of power but nothing concerning. When on, the amp gauge needle would always hover in the negative. > Personally I don?t like thermo switches, so the fan has now been wired direct and operated by a discreet switch under the dash. Power is taken directly from the outgoing side of the ignition switch so that the fan only comes on when the ignition is on along with the specific switch. > Works well, but now when the fan goes on the ignition light is illuminated and will not go out. > Does that mean that the ignition circuit doesn?t like what I have done? I am thinking of taking the power direct from the incoming side of the ignition switch so that the fan is powered direct from the battery. Would that work? > Any electrical whizzes out there? > Thanks > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jun 3 06:24:04 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 08:24:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> Message-ID: David Looks like this is a modified AH. I see an exhaust pipe poking out from in front of the right rear tire. Have any more info? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Leong Sent: Monday, June 3, 2019 12:17 AM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? Spotted at Sears Point today Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40001 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 07:19:01 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 09:19:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <20190603122459.31A0AA09D0@autox.team.net> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> <20190603122459.31A0AA09D0@autox.team.net> Message-ID: WOW paint on rust!!! On Mon, Jun 3, 2019, 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys, wrote: > David > > Looks like this is a modified AH. I see an exhaust pipe poking out from > in front of the right rear tire. Have any more info? > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *David Leong > *Sent: *Monday, June 3, 2019 12:17 AM > *To: *'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' > *Subject: *[Healeys] Anyone on the list? > > > > Spotted at Sears Point today > > > > [image: cid:image001.jpg at 01D51988.70B5B1A0] > > > > > > > > *Dave* > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Jun 3 07:20:46 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 09:20:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <01a401d51a0d$8e2e1760$aa8a4620$@tpg.com.au> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> <20190603122536.365D5A0B9B@autox.team.net> <01a401d51a0d$8e2e1760$aa8a4620$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Patrick I should have picked up on that possibility a little sooner. Slowing down in my old age. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Monday, June 3, 2019 9:09 AM To: 'Perry'; 'David Leong' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? Might be one of the very rare alloy headed cross-flow engine powered Mk2 Roadsters. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys Sent: Monday, 3 June 2019 10:24 PM To: David Leong Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? David Looks like this is a modified AH.? I see an exhaust pipe poking out from in front of the right rear tire.? Have any more info? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Leong Sent: Monday, June 3, 2019 12:17 AM To: 'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? Spotted at Sears Point today Dave Virus-free. www.avast.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 40001 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 07:39:49 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 09:39:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <20190603132112.6C662A0E80@autox.team.net> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> <20190603122536.365D5A0B9B@autox.team.net> <01a401d51a0d$8e2e1760$aa8a4620$@tpg.com.au> <20190603132112.6C662A0E80@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Here's some background on the car: https://bringatrailer.com/2011/07/21/plenty-of-su-1961-austin-healey-3000-bt7/ https://bringatrailer.com/2011/07/24/bat-success-story-fast-moving-austin-healey-v8/ Rick Neville On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 9:21 AM Perry via Healeys wrote: > Patrick > > I should have picked up on that possibility a little sooner. Slowing down > in my old age. > > P > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Sent: *Monday, June 3, 2019 9:09 AM > *To: *'Perry' ; 'David Leong' > *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? > > > > Might be one of the very rare alloy headed cross-flow engine powered Mk2 > Roadsters. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Perry > via Healeys > *Sent:* Monday, 3 June 2019 10:24 PM > *To:* David Leong > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? > > > > David > > Looks like this is a modified AH. I see an exhaust pipe poking out from > in front of the right rear tire. Have any more info? > > Perry > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *David Leong > *Sent: *Monday, June 3, 2019 12:17 AM > *To: *'Healey List (healeys at autox.team.net)' > *Subject: *[Healeys] Anyone on the list? > > > > Spotted at Sears Point today > > > > [image: cid:image001.jpg at 01D51988.70B5B1A0] > > > > > > > > *Dave* > > > > > > > > [image: > https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif] > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Mon Jun 3 10:54:04 2019 From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 09:54:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> Message-ID: That car was on bring a trailer a few years back! Awesome V-8 with custom manifold where the holes were for dashpot clearance. > On Jun 2, 2019, at 9:16 PM, David Leong wrote: > > Spotted at Sears Point today > > > > > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen shot 2012-06-30 at 10.21.22 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 1379418 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Jun 3 11:04:34 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 17:04:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> References: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <1253638333.11546099.1559581474771@mail.yahoo.com> You could always use Evans waterless coolant.? Then you wouln't have to worry about overheating in traffic or anywhere.Mike MacLean Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating | | | | Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating Evans waterless coolant, the solution to engine overheating & corrosion for classic cars, hot rods, muscle cars,... | | | On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 11:40:04 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: #yiv7708788296 #yiv7708788296 -- _filtered #yiv7708788296 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7708788296 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7708788296 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7708788296 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7708788296 {font-family:Garamond;panose-1:2 2 4 4 3 3 1 1 8 3;}#yiv7708788296 #yiv7708788296 p.yiv7708788296MsoNormal, #yiv7708788296 li.yiv7708788296MsoNormal, #yiv7708788296 div.yiv7708788296MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7708788296 a:link, #yiv7708788296 span.yiv7708788296MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7708788296 a:visited, #yiv7708788296 span.yiv7708788296MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7708788296 p {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv7708788296 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7708788296 span.yiv7708788296HTMLPreformattedChar {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7708788296 span.yiv7708788296EmailStyle20 {font-family:New;color:windowtext;}#yiv7708788296 .yiv7708788296MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7708788296 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv7708788296 div.yiv7708788296WordSection1 {}#yiv7708788296 Hello ? I agree with Kees, 190?F is no big deal. The gauges fitted to Austin-Healeys read to 230?F and when the needle goes past that is when you should start worrying. ? Hoo Roo ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Monday, 3 June 2019 4:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap ? 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading. Kees Oudesluijs ? ? Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc..? Then I put in a flex fan.? Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. ??? Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. ? Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD.? Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling.? So being foolish I bought one. ??? Results:? Absolutely NO change.? Well it lightened my pocket book. ? Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). ???? Results:? I started to make the shroud BUT.? The fan is not centered on the radiator.?? The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator.? So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. ? ????? Questions:? Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? ??????????????????????? Would a four core radiator be of any help? ??????? ??????????????? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks..............??? Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail:? alsemus1 at gmail.com _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75 ?Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive ?Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ?Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl ? | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jun 3 11:14:26 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 19:14:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <1253638333.11546099.1559581474771@mail.yahoo.com> References: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> <1253638333.11546099.1559581474771@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <313cfb34-24bd-e168-9324-b1567d800370@chello.nl> Expensive and an absolutely a waste of money. Cooling will suffer as it does not transfer heat as well as water (the main ingredient of coolant) and the heat capacity is lower. The only advantage is it will not boil but it does not cool the engine as well as ordinary coolant. Anyway, you should correct the source of overheating which is the only proper way to go. Fighting the symptoms only is not going to work in the end. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 19:04 schreef Michael MacLean: > You could always use Evans waterless coolant.? Then you wouln't have > to worry about overheating in traffic or anywhere. > Mike MacLean > > Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating > > > > > > > Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating > > Evans waterless coolant, the solution to engine overheating & > corrosion for classic cars, hot rods, muscle cars,... > > > > > > On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 11:40:04 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn > wrote: > > > Hello > > I agree with Kees, 190?F is no big deal. The gauges fitted to > Austin-Healeys read to 230?F and when the needle goes past that is > when you should start worrying. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Kees Oudesluijs > *Sent:* Monday, 3 June 2019 4:22 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap > > 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check > the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore: > > Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. > > First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc..? Then I put in a > flex fan.? Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. > > ??? Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the > temp went to almost 190F. > > Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD.? Said it gave him > 20% increase in cooling.? So being foolish I bought one. > > Results:? Absolutely NO change.? Well it lightened my pocket book. > > Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and > claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). > > Results:? I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not > centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the > radiator.? So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. > > Questions:? Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? > > ? ? ? ? ? ? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the > flex fan completely? > > Would a four core radiator be of any help? > > ??????????????? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to > 190F without a worry? > > I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to > get to Las Vegas. > > Thanks.............. Al > > > -- > > Albert Seminatore > > Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV > > eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 11:16:01 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 10:16:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> Message-ID: I thought it looked like a Daimler SP250 Dart manifold, but they only had two carbs Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 10:09 AM Rick Wilkins wrote: > That car was on bring a trailer a few years back! > > Awesome V-8 with custom manifold where the holes were for dashpot > clearance. > > > > > On Jun 2, 2019, at 9:16 PM, David Leong wrote: > > Spotted at Sears Point today > > > > > > *Dave* > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen shot 2012-06-30 at 10.21.22 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 1379418 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jun 3 13:08:27 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 12:08:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Anyone on the list? In-Reply-To: References: <8ad8359755b5412a8b2de2b7a41f34b8@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro> Message-ID: <7655fc47-4994-8df5-d46f-0a5e7b15022c@comcast.net> It was at the Palo Alto British Cars Show a few years back (hard to forget that manifold). On 6/3/2019 9:54 AM, Rick Wilkins wrote: > That car was on bring a trailer a few years back! > > Awesome V-8 with custom manifold where the holes were for dashpot > clearance. > > > > >> On Jun 2, 2019, at 9:16 PM, David Leong > > wrote: >> >> Spotted at Sears Point today >> >> */Dave/* >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Screen shot 2012-06-30 at 10.21.22 PM.png Type: image/png Size: 1379418 bytes Desc: not available URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Mon Jun 3 11:47:19 2019 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 19:47:19 +0200 (CEST) Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <313cfb34-24bd-e168-9324-b1567d800370@chello.nl> References: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> <1253638333.11546099.1559581474771@mail.yahoo.com> <313cfb34-24bd-e168-9324-b1567d800370@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1559584039907.3294278.54c5508436895ea151d7aed85445effd520ba59a@spica.telekom.de> In this I fully support what Kees said. Absolute waste of money. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-03T19:15:05+0200 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" An: "Michael MacLean" , "healeys at autox.team.net" , "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" Expensive and an absolutely a waste of money. Cooling will suffer as it does not transfer heat as well as water (the main ingredient of coolant) and the heat capacity is lower. The only advantage is it will not boil but it does not cool the engine as well as ordinary coolant. Anyway, you should correct the source of overheating which is the only proper way to go. Fighting the symptoms only is not going to work in the end. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 19:04 schreef Michael MacLean: You could always use Evans waterless coolant. Then you wouln't have to worry about overheating in traffic or anywhere. Mike MacLean Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating Evans waterless coolant, the solution to engine overheating & corrosion for classic cars, hot rods, muscle cars,... On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 11:40:04 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello I agree with Kees, 190?F is no big deal. The gauges fitted to Austin-Healeys read to 230?F and when the needle goes past that is when you should start worrying. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net ] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Monday, 3 June 2019 4:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks.............. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From roggrace at telus.net Mon Jun 3 11:48:47 2019 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 11:48:47 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <313cfb34-24bd-e168-9324-b1567d800370@chello.nl> References: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> <1253638333.11546099.1559581474771@mail.yahoo.com> <313cfb34-24bd-e168-9324-b1567d800370@chello.nl> Message-ID: <1804916285.4832095.1559584127600.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Yes 100% agree. What is worse is that you won't know that your engine is running hotter.The metal (head etc) will get hotter as not all the heat is transfered to the cooling system.Your water temp gauge won't show this.rg ----- Original Message ----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: Michael MacLean , healeys at autox.team.net, Patrick & Caroline Quinn Sent: Mon, 03 Jun 2019 11:14:26 -0600 (MDT) Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap Expensive and an absolutely a waste of money. Cooling will suffer as it does not transfer heat as well as water (the main ingredient of coolant) and the heat capacity is lower. The only advantage is it will not boil but it does not cool the engine as well as ordinary coolant.Anyway, you should correct the source of overheating which is the only proper way to go. Fighting the symptoms only is not going to work in the end. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 19:04 schreef Michael MacLean: You could always use Evans waterless coolant. Then you wouln't have to worry about overheating in traffic or anywhere.Mike MacLean Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine OverheatingEvans waterless coolant, the solution to engine overheating & corrosion for classic cars, hot rods, muscle cars,... On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 11:40:04 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello I agree with Kees, 190?F is no big deal. The gauges fitted to Austin-Healeys read to 230?F and when the needle goes past that is when you should start worrying. Hoo Roo Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees OudesluijsSent: Monday, 3 June 2019 4:22 PMTo:healeys at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading.Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore:Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator.First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry?I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas.Thanks.............. Al --Albert SeminatoreMountain Falls, Pahrump, NVeMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl Virus-free. www.avast.com_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Jun 3 21:52:03 2019 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Mon, 03 Jun 2019 20:52:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?waterless_coolant?= Message-ID: <20190604035203.4110.qmail@server278.com> would not a couple of gallons of regular antifreeze, not the 50/50 mix, be the same as waterless coolant? From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Jun 4 00:38:12 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 08:38:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <20190604035203.4110.qmail@server278.com> References: <20190604035203.4110.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <7e7f1f00-f447-c3c0-bb98-88f08b0d8a8e@chello.nl> I would not be very surprised if it is similar. Op 4-6-2019 om 05:52 schreef healeymanjim: > would not a couple of gallons of regular antifreeze, not the 50/50 mix, be the same as waterless coolant? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 4 09:29:12 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 08:29:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <20190604035203.4110.qmail@server278.com> References: <20190604035203.4110.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <169001d51aea$44fdc990$cef95cb0$@roadrunner.com> No, it's a different glycol from what I understand after researching options, including Evans. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of healeymanjim Sent: Monday, June 03, 2019 8:52 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] waterless coolant would not a couple of gallons of regular antifreeze, not the 50/50 mix, be the same as waterless coolant? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Jun 4 09:39:06 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 08:39:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <169001d51aea$44fdc990$cef95cb0$@roadrunner.com> References: <20190604035203.4110.qmail@server278.com> <169001d51aea$44fdc990$cef95cb0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <863c35c0-1e96-274b-8630-ff6c7b650c20@comcast.net> Different, and better: "If it did not freeze, water would be the ideal heat-transfer fluid for cooling applications. ... Between the two, *ethylene glycol* (C2H6O2) is a better heat transfer fluid than *propylene glycol* (C3H8O2). *Propylene glycol* is less toxic and is considered when toxicity is a concern." - http://www.veoliawatertech.com/crownsolutions/ressources/documents/2/21823,Glycol.pdf Evans is propylene; its only advantage is its (relative) non-toxicity.? The only thing I ever disliked about Edd China was when he did a plug for 'waterless coolant' (he didn't name the brand, but the jug looked like Evans).? He put it in a TR6 IIRC. Bob On 6/4/2019 8:29 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > No, it's a different glycol from what I understand after researching > options, including Evans. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > healeymanjim > Sent: Monday, June 03, 2019 8:52 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] waterless coolant > > would not a couple of gallons of regular antifreeze, not the 50/50 mix, be > the same as waterless coolant? > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jun 4 15:26:46 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 14:26:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oem radiator width Message-ID: [image: image.png] howdy folks if someone is near their MkI 3000/100-6 I need an accurate measurement of the width of a OEM radiator from attached bracket to bracket. shop teacher is making me some spacers . I am not at home. Thanks Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 304312 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jun 4 16:01:48 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 15:01:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] oem radiator width In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Got the info I needed. No need to go take care of it for me. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jun 4, 2019 at 2:26 PM i erbs wrote: > [image: image.png] > > howdy folks > > if someone is near their MkI 3000/100-6 I need an accurate measurement of > the width of a OEM radiator from attached bracket to bracket. shop teacher > is making me some spacers . I am not at home. Thanks > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 304312 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Tue Jun 4 09:41:13 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 08:41:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In-Reply-To: <1559584039907.3294278.54c5508436895ea151d7aed85445effd520ba59a@spica.telekom.de> References: <4b7ed141-bac2-fbb7-7110-dc14b2f83f6e@chello.nl> <010e01d519d7$0987dea0$1c979be0$@tpg.com.au> <1253638333.11546099.1559581474771@mail.yahoo.com> <313cfb34-24bd-e168-9324-b1567d800370@chello.nl> <1559584039907.3294278.54c5508436895ea151d7aed85445effd520ba59a@spica.telekom.de> Message-ID: <16a401d51aeb$f27fdbc0$d77f9340$@roadrunner.com> I spent quite a bit of time researching whether to use Evans. I had tried a few years ago for one driving season (basically a year) and found my car ran slightly hotter with it, and that was without a thermostat. Yes, it has a higher boiling point, but I want the temp to be as low as possible. I ended up running straight deionized water with No Rosion. I also added an oil cooler from Moss and the ?air shovel? chin scoop. Altogether, running about 10 degrees cooler with a 190 degree thermostat. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of josef-eckert at t-online.de Sent: Monday, June 03, 2019 10:47 AM To: Kees Oudesluijs ; Michael MacLean ; healeys at autox.team.net; Patrick & Caroline Quinn Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap In this I fully support what Kees said. Absolute waste of money. Josef Eckert -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap Datum: 2019-06-03T19:15:05+0200 Von: "Kees Oudesluijs" > An: "Michael MacLean" >, "healeys at autox.team.net " >, "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" > Expensive and an absolutely a waste of money. Cooling will suffer as it does not transfer heat as well as water (the main ingredient of coolant) and the heat capacity is lower. The only advantage is it will not boil but it does not cool the engine as well as ordinary coolant. Anyway, you should correct the source of overheating which is the only proper way to go. Fighting the symptoms only is not going to work in the end. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 19:04 schreef Michael MacLean: You could always use Evans waterless coolant. Then you wouln't have to worry about overheating in traffic or anywhere. Mike MacLean Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating Evans Waterless Coolant, Prevent Engine Overheating Evans waterless coolant, the solution to engine overheating & corrosion for classic cars, hot rods, muscle cars,... On Sunday, June 2, 2019, 11:40:04 PM PDT, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello I agree with Kees, 190?F is no big deal. The gauges fitted to Austin-Healeys read to 230?F and when the needle goes past that is when you should start worrying. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Monday, 3 June 2019 4:22 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Subject: Re: alum radiator swap 190?F is no big deal, boiling point is well over 212?F. However check the accuracy of the thermometer to be sure of a correct reading. Kees Oudesluijs Op 3-6-2019 om 02:46 schreef Albert Seminatore: Thought I'd share my experience with the alum radiator. First I had the OEM radiator boiled cleaned etc.. Then I put in a flex fan. Finally a 160 degree F thermostat. Results: Helped a bit but in the summer and in the desert the temp went to almost 190F. Talked to someone who had an alum. in his MGTD. Said it gave him 20% increase in cooling. So being foolish I bought one. Results: Absolutely NO change. Well it lightened my pocket book. Recently talked to a man who made a shroud for his healey and claimed it made a big difference alng with his Texas Fan (6 bladed). Results: I started to make the shroud BUT. The fan is not centered on the radiator. The fan is 1 inch to the left of the radiator. So the plans for a shroud isn't going to work as is. Questions: Is the motor incorrectly mounted causing the offset? If I put in an electric fan is it best to remove the flex fan completely? Would a four core radiator be of any help? Should I ignore my fear and let the temp go to 190F without a worry? I live in the desert and have to go over a 5000 foot mountain to get to Las Vegas. Thanks.............. Al -- Albert Seminatore Mountain Falls, Pahrump, NV eMail: alsemus1 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jun 4 21:58:52 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 03:58:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> ???? I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for my BN2.? This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and I got my car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this right.? Check the photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear hanger.? I have all the hardware that was listed at Moss, including the two jam nuts for the bolt through the body mount.? The double ended threaded bolt can only go one way with the jam nuts on one end and the big nut and lock washer on the other.? I determined the jam nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the bolt, but leave it loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of the axle.? After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links and bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside.? Might have been easier that way, but it wasn't bad.??? Also look at the third picture.? This is just below and behind the leaf spring.? There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of the inner wheel well.? You can see it it in the center of the photo.? What is this threaded hole for?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rear Inner Leaf Spring.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 103758 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Rear Outer Leaf SPring.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 148459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Captive nut.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 85704 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 00:58:53 2019 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 23:58:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, It's for the exhaust hanger. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Jun 4, 2019 at 9:03 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for my > BN2. This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and I got my > car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this right. Check the > photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear hanger. I have all the > hardware that was listed at Moss, including the two jam nuts for the bolt > through the body mount. The double ended threaded bolt can only go one way > with the jam nuts on one end and the big nut and lock washer on the other. > I determined the jam nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the > bolt, but leave it loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of > the axle. After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links > and bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside. Might have been > easier that way, but it wasn't bad. > Also look at the third picture. This is just below and behind the > leaf spring. There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of the inner > wheel well. You can see it it in the center of the photo. What is this > threaded hole for? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 05:18:48 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 07:18:48 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Curt is correct however, what I do notice, is that that threaded hole's companion has been welded over. This will be a problem when it comes to hanging the exhaust system. M On Wed, Jun 5, 2019, 2:59 AM Curtis Arndt, wrote: > Mike, > > It's for the exhaust hanger. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Tue, Jun 4, 2019 at 9:03 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for my >> BN2. This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and I got my >> car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this right. Check the >> photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear hanger. I have all the >> hardware that was listed at Moss, including the two jam nuts for the bolt >> through the body mount. The double ended threaded bolt can only go one way >> with the jam nuts on one end and the big nut and lock washer on the other. >> I determined the jam nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the >> bolt, but leave it loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of >> the axle. After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links >> and bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside. Might have been >> easier that way, but it wasn't bad. >> Also look at the third picture. This is just below and behind the >> leaf spring. There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of the inner >> wheel well. You can see it it in the center of the photo. What is this >> threaded hole for? >> Mike MacLean >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 07:14:02 2019 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 06:14:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael, Good catch, I missed that detail! Cheers, Curt On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 4:36 AM Michael Salter wrote: > Curt is correct however, what I do notice, is that that threaded hole's > companion has been welded over. > This will be a problem when it comes to hanging the exhaust system. > > M > > On Wed, Jun 5, 2019, 2:59 AM Curtis Arndt, wrote: > >> Mike, >> >> It's for the exhaust hanger. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Jun 5 08:14:58 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 14:14:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, This is where the rubber exhaust mounting bracket goes but there should be two of these nuts, it looks like one of the holes was welded over. You will have to install a rubber bracket in place so you will know where to drill the second hole and I believe there is an opening underneath that corner piece so that you can go and weld it in place or drill the hole and use a ?T? nut. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2019 10:58:52 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for my BN2. This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and I got my car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this right. Check the photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear hanger. I have all the hardware that was listed at Moss, including the two jam nuts for the bolt through the body mount. The double ended threaded bolt can only go one way with the jam nuts on one end and the big nut and lock washer on the other. I determined the jam nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the bolt, but leave it loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of the axle. After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links and bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside. Might have been easier that way, but it wasn't bad. Also look at the third picture. This is just below and behind the leaf spring. There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of the inner wheel well. You can see it it in the center of the photo. What is this threaded hole for? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 08:33:27 2019 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 10:33:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <019801d51463$c0c288f0$42479ad0$@gmail.com> References: <0c9901d5132c$5fb84be0$1f28e3a0$@gmail.com> <000501d513df$a9ae12d0$fd0a3870$@gmail.com> <019801d51463$c0c288f0$42479ad0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <006d01d51bab$a3a58930$eaf09b90$@gmail.com> Hi Bob- just want to let you know the Fabreze extra strength seems to have worked! Follow-up on cause = the fuel sender upper chamber was full to the brim with fuel. I discovered this by driving the car for a couple of days with the Armacord out, an could see fuel on top of the sending unit? Removing the upper gasket revealed that fuel had made its way up into the rectangular chamber, but never drained back down. As such, even when the tank level dropped, it was still sloshing fuel out the top of the sender. I called Moss for advice as this is a new sending unit. The telephone rep told me she checked with technical and they say it is not unusual for there to be fuel in the top, and to just seal the gasket and screw threads. I sopped out as much of the fuel as I could and sealed the gasket and threads, and will see how it goes. Al Fuller From: Robert Begani [mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, May 27, 2019 4:11 AM To: 'Al Fuller' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] fuel sender leak Buy Febreze HD in the larger Container such as Qt. Size from Home Depot etc. and spray on, or soak it several times. I had a diesel smell in the aft berth cushions of my sailboat and tried several types of solutions, but, Febreze finally did the job. Washing inside and out and laying it out in the sun would usually work for Gasoline, while Diesel is much more difficult to remove. Bob Begani From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 12:26 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel sender leak I might try that as a last resort, as it is likely to be very expensive. Do you have experience using a dry cleaner to get out gasoline odor? Thanks, Al Fuller From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 3:19 PM To: Al Fuller > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel sender leak Dry cleaner? On May 25, 2019, at 12:02 PM, Al Fuller > wrote: All this talk of leaks from the fuel sender reminds me ? any experience in getting the fuel odor out of the armacord that covers the fuel tank? I?ve dried it out in the sun, but it still smells of gasoline. As I recall, when this happened previously I hosed it off with copious amounts of water, then put it in the sun to dry ? which took quite some time, as it soaks up fluids like crazy. Any better way? Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Jun 5 09:07:21 2019 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 09:07:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6cd084a0-7e38-052e-2d3d-6e1bdab8657e@porterscustom.com> FWIW, they are captive and will require either taping or welding a nut in the new hole.. On 6/5/2019 8:14 AM, Jean Caron wrote: > > Mike, > > This is where the rubber exhaust mounting bracket goes but there > should be two of these nuts, it looks like one of the holes was welded > over. You will have to install a rubber bracket in place so you will > know where to drill the second hole and I believe there is an opening > underneath that corner piece so that you can go and weld it in place > or drill the hole and use a ?T? nut. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Michael > MacLean > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 4, 2019 10:58:52 PM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] Leaf Springs > ???? I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for my > BN2.? This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and I > got my car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this > right.? Check the photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear > hanger.? I have all the hardware that was listed at Moss, including > the two jam nuts for the bolt through the body mount.? The double > ended threaded bolt can only go one way with the jam nuts on one end > and the big nut and lock washer on the other.? I determined the jam > nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the bolt, but leave it > loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of the axle.? > After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links and > bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside.? Might have been > easier that way, but it wasn't bad. > ??? Also look at the third picture.? This is just below and behind the > leaf spring.? There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of the > inner wheel well.? You can see it it in the center of the photo.? What > is this threaded hole for? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jun 5 09:34:40 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 17:34:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <6cd084a0-7e38-052e-2d3d-6e1bdab8657e@porterscustom.com> References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> <6cd084a0-7e38-052e-2d3d-6e1bdab8657e@porterscustom.com> Message-ID: <6f8e0593-c83e-6bf5-0df6-95aee1a9fae8@chello.nl> As it is not a concours car I would use a single adjustable reinforced rubber strap (with a row of 8mm holes) plus clamp around the exaust pipe and hung from the tapped hole by a single bolt. Simple, universal and cheap. Kees Oudesluijs Op 5-6-2019 om 17:07 schreef David P: > > FWIW, they are captive and will require either taping or welding a nut > in the new hole.. > > On 6/5/2019 8:14 AM, Jean Caron wrote: >> >> Mike, >> >> This is where the rubber exhaust mounting bracket goes but there >> should be two of these nuts, it looks like one of the holes was >> welded over. You will have to install a rubber bracket in place so >> you will know where to drill the second hole and I believe there is >> an opening underneath that corner piece so that you can go and weld >> it in place or drill the hole and use a ?T? nut. >> >> Jean >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Michael >> MacLean >> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 4, 2019 10:58:52 PM >> *To:* Healeys >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Leaf Springs >> ???? I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for >> my BN2.? This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and >> I got my car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this >> right.? Check the photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear >> hanger.? I have all the hardware that was listed at Moss, including >> the two jam nuts for the bolt through the body mount.? The double >> ended threaded bolt can only go one way with the jam nuts on one end >> and the big nut and lock washer on the other.? I determined the jam >> nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the bolt, but leave it >> loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of the axle.? >> After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links and >> bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside. Might have been >> easier that way, but it wasn't bad. >> ??? Also look at the third picture.? This is just below and behind >> the leaf spring.? There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of >> the inner wheel well.? You can see it it in the center of the photo.? >> What is this threaded hole for? >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 10:05:20 2019 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 12:05:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fuel sender leak In-Reply-To: <006d01d51bab$a3a58930$eaf09b90$@gmail.com> References: <0c9901d5132c$5fb84be0$1f28e3a0$@gmail.com> <000501d513df$a9ae12d0$fd0a3870$@gmail.com> <019801d51463$c0c288f0$42479ad0$@gmail.com> <006d01d51bab$a3a58930$eaf09b90$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <02dd01d51bb8$7a3bced0$6eb36c70$@gmail.com> Great. When I get back to Florida from Wet Cold Midwest, I will have to take out the sending unit in my BJ8 to see if it is positioned properly etc. Bob From: Al Fuller Sent: Wednesday, June 5, 2019 10:33 AM To: 'Robert Begani' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] fuel sender leak Hi Bob- just want to let you know the Fabreze extra strength seems to have worked! Follow-up on cause = the fuel sender upper chamber was full to the brim with fuel. I discovered this by driving the car for a couple of days with the Armacord out, an could see fuel on top of the sending unit? Removing the upper gasket revealed that fuel had made its way up into the rectangular chamber, but never drained back down. As such, even when the tank level dropped, it was still sloshing fuel out the top of the sender. I called Moss for advice as this is a new sending unit. The telephone rep told me she checked with technical and they say it is not unusual for there to be fuel in the top, and to just seal the gasket and screw threads. I sopped out as much of the fuel as I could and sealed the gasket and threads, and will see how it goes. Al Fuller From: Robert Begani [mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com] Sent: Monday, May 27, 2019 4:11 AM To: 'Al Fuller' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] fuel sender leak Buy Febreze HD in the larger Container such as Qt. Size from Home Depot etc. and spray on, or soak it several times. I had a diesel smell in the aft berth cushions of my sailboat and tried several types of solutions, but, Febreze finally did the job. Washing inside and out and laying it out in the sun would usually work for Gasoline, while Diesel is much more difficult to remove. Bob Begani From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: Sunday, May 26, 2019 12:26 PM To: 'Bob Spidell' > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel sender leak I might try that as a last resort, as it is likely to be very expensive. Do you have experience using a dry cleaner to get out gasoline odor? Thanks, Al Fuller From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, May 25, 2019 3:19 PM To: Al Fuller > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] fuel sender leak Dry cleaner? On May 25, 2019, at 12:02 PM, Al Fuller > wrote: All this talk of leaks from the fuel sender reminds me ? any experience in getting the fuel odor out of the armacord that covers the fuel tank? I?ve dried it out in the sun, but it still smells of gasoline. As I recall, when this happened previously I hosed it off with copious amounts of water, then put it in the sun to dry ? which took quite some time, as it soaks up fluids like crazy. Any better way? Al Fuller _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jun 5 17:08:12 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 16:08:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting Message-ID: <1821be47-e9bf-51f2-4c55-74b653dfbac3@comcast.net> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0039.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2563404 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 19:10:51 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 18:10:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] more alum radiator Message-ID: My friend tried to make some spacers for me, but he was crushed with needing to teach, so they were not perfect and the holes did not line up with the brackets. So, in order to get to my car show on Saturday, I hope the radiator shop will be finished with my original one tomorrow. I will attach the electric fan to the oem unit and run without the water pump fan. I will see how it goes on my 10 mile drive to the show and assess if I want to hassle with the aluminum radiator or not. watch this space for a possible hell of a deal on an aluminum unit. cheers Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jun 5 20:29:34 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2019 02:29:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Differential Installation References: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> OK, so I am very familiar with Bugeyes.? It is no problem attaching the differential to a quarter elliptical leaf spring.? Today I finished the installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the help of my son we muscled the differential (with the pumpkin) kind of in place above the two frame rails.? Excuse my ignorance, but what is the procedure to bring the attachment point on the axle in contact with the center of the leaf spring?? As it sits right now I am having a tough time figuring this out.? Do I jack up the center of the leaf spring with a jack until the u-bolt can get the nuts started?? When I got this basket case, the rear end was held in with a come-a-long? and the leaf springs were gone, by just cutting them off with a torch.? No experience here guys.? Just a suggestion or two would be great.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jun 5 21:01:06 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2019 03:01:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs In-Reply-To: <6f8e0593-c83e-6bf5-0df6-95aee1a9fae8@chello.nl> References: <878804818.859399.1559707133015.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <878804818.859399.1559707133015@mail.yahoo.com> <6cd084a0-7e38-052e-2d3d-6e1bdab8657e@porterscustom.com>, <6f8e0593-c83e-6bf5-0df6-95aee1a9fae8@chello.nl> Message-ID: The other option would be to drill out the hole and insert a rivnut. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Wednesday, June 5, 2019 3:34 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leaf Springs As it is not a concours car I would use a single adjustable reinforced rubber strap (with a row of 8mm holes) plus clamp around the exaust pipe and hung from the tapped hole by a single bolt. Simple, universal and cheap. Kees Oudesluijs Op 5-6-2019 om 17:07 schreef David P: FWIW, they are captive and will require either taping or welding a nut in the new hole.. On 6/5/2019 8:14 AM, Jean Caron wrote: Mike, This is where the rubber exhaust mounting bracket goes but there should be two of these nuts, it looks like one of the holes was welded over. You will have to install a rubber bracket in place so you will know where to drill the second hole and I believe there is an opening underneath that corner piece so that you can go and weld it in place or drill the hole and use a ?T? nut. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, June 4, 2019 10:58:52 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Springs I am finally getting around to installing the leaf springs for my BN2. This is the first time I have put a big Healey together and I got my car as a bare shell., so I wanted to make sure I got this right. Check the photos of the rear left leaf spring at the rear hanger. I have all the hardware that was listed at Moss, including the two jam nuts for the bolt through the body mount. The double ended threaded bolt can only go one way with the jam nuts on one end and the big nut and lock washer on the other. I determined the jam nuts were to take the lateral movement out of the bolt, but leave it loose enough to let the links swing with the movement of the axle. After looking at it, I could have just flipped the whole links and bolts over exposing the jam nuts to the outside. Might have been easier that way, but it wasn't bad. Also look at the third picture. This is just below and behind the leaf spring. There is a captive nut behind the sheet metal of the inner wheel well. You can see it it in the center of the photo. What is this threaded hole for? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com -- Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jun 5 21:15:49 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 23:15:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You will find that putting a jack under the spring will only serve to lift the whole car. I use a couple of very large C clamps ... 1 to hold one side of the rear axle casing to the frame rail and the other to pull the spring up to the axle casing on the other side. Plan and proceed carefully ... there is a lot of energy stored in that spring as you tighten the C clamp. M On Wed, Jun 5, 2019, 10:37 PM Michael MacLean, wrote: > OK, so I am very familiar with Bugeyes. It is no problem attaching the > differential to a quarter elliptical leaf spring. Today I finished the > installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the help of my son we > muscled the differential (with the pumpkin) kind of in place above the two > frame rails. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the procedure to bring the > attachment point on the axle in contact with the center of the leaf > spring? As it sits right now I am having a tough time figuring this out. > Do I jack up the center of the leaf spring with a jack until the u-bolt can > get the nuts started? When I got this basket case, the rear end was held > in with a come-a-long and the leaf springs were gone, by just cutting them > off with a torch. No experience here guys. Just a suggestion or two would > be great. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Wed Jun 5 21:19:40 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2019 13:19:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <012901d51c16$af513250$0df396f0$@tpg.com.au> Hello An interesting chore. Plus at the same time as fitting the rear axle you need to install the Panhard rod which I have found to be a real pain in the bum. I became very friendly with both my trolley jack as well as a screw type bottle jack. Yes lift the individual springs up with a jack until you can start the threads, but I wouldn?t do them up until the very end. It may help if the springs were not tightened completely. After both sides are done up by just a few threads it?s time for the bottle jack to be used horizontally and braced up against a wall or some other immovable object and using some blocks of wood. Gently push the whole rear axle from the passenger side (for right hand drive cars) across until the Panhard rod goes into place. You may have to also loosen up the triangular plate that the rod fits through. Be careful that you don?t push the whole rear of the car off the stands so it might be useful to brace the chassis on the other side with more wood against another immovable object. After all that it?s a matter of tightening all the fasteners. Worked for me and I was doing it myself. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, 6 June 2019 12:30 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Differential Installation OK, so I am very familiar with Bugeyes. It is no problem attaching the differential to a quarter elliptical leaf spring. Today I finished the installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the help of my son we muscled the differential (with the pumpkin) kind of in place above the two frame rails. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the procedure to bring the attachment point on the axle in contact with the center of the leaf spring? As it sits right now I am having a tough time figuring this out. Do I jack up the center of the leaf spring with a jack until the u-bolt can get the nuts started? When I got this basket case, the rear end was held in with a come-a-long and the leaf springs were gone, by just cutting them off with a torch. No experience here guys. Just a suggestion or two would be great. Mike MacLean --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jun 5 21:50:57 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2019 20:50:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: <012901d51c16$af513250$0df396f0$@tpg.com.au> References: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> <012901d51c16$af513250$0df396f0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <96e99d84-ce5e-8235-9614-5e31617c6f66@comcast.net> I used urethane bushes for the Panhard rod ... didn't want to do that job twice. On 6/5/2019 8:19 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > > Hello > > An interesting chore. > > Plus at the same time as fitting the rear axle you need to install the > Panhard rod which I have found to be a real pain in the bum. > > I became very friendly with both my trolley jack as well as a screw > type bottle jack. Yes lift the individual springs up with a jack until > you can start the threads, but I wouldn?t do them up until the very > end. It may help if the springs were not tightened completely. After > both sides are done up by just a few threads it?s time for the bottle > jack to be used horizontally and braced up against a wall or some > other immovable object and using some blocks of wood. Gently push the > whole rear axle from the passenger side (for right hand drive cars) > across until the Panhard rod goes into place. You may have to also > loosen up the triangular plate that the rod fits through. Be careful > that you don?t push the whole rear of the car off the stands so it > might be useful to brace the chassis on the other side with more wood > against another immovable object. After all that it?s a matter of > tightening all the fasteners. > > Worked for me and I was doing it myself. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Michael MacLean > *Sent:* Thursday, 6 June 2019 12:30 PM > *To:* Healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] Differential Installation > > OK, so I am very familiar with Bugeyes.? It is no problem attaching > the differential to a quarter elliptical leaf spring.? Today I > finished the installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the > help of my son we muscled the differential (with the pumpkin) kind of > in place above the two frame rails. Excuse my ignorance, but what is > the procedure to bring the attachment point on the axle in contact > with the center of the leaf spring?? As it sits right now I am having > a tough time figuring this out.? Do I jack up the center of the leaf > spring with a jack until the u-bolt can get the nuts started?? When I > got this basket case, the rear end was held in with a come-a-long? and > the leaf springs were gone, by just cutting them off with a torch. No > experience here guys.? Just a suggestion or two would be great. > > Mike MacLean > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Jun 6 01:20:47 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 6 Jun 2019 09:20:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Differential Installation In-Reply-To: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1366158890.282029.1559788174501.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1366158890.282029.1559788174501@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <61b9edbb-8a85-8595-54ea-7652f6bcb6fc@chello.nl> Don?t jack up the spring, can be dangerous. Jack up the car. Kees Oudesluijs Op 6-6-2019 om 04:29 schreef Michael MacLean: > OK, so I am very familiar with Bugeyes.? It is no problem attaching > the differential to a quarter elliptical leaf spring.? Today I > finished the installation of the leaf springs on my BN2 and with the > help of my son we muscled the differential (with the pumpkin) kind of > in place above the two frame rails.? Excuse my ignorance, but what is > the procedure to bring the attachment point on the axle in contact > with the center of the leaf spring?? As it sits right now I am having > a tough time figuring this out.? Do I jack up the center of the leaf > spring with a jack until the u-bolt can get the nuts started?? When I > got this basket case, the rear end was held in with a come-a-long? and > the leaf springs were gone, by just cutting them off with a torch.? No > experience here guys.? Just a suggestion or two would be great. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 06:47:21 2019 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 08:47:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw Message-ID: For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. What does the wisdom of this great resource think? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone From per at schoerner.se Fri Jun 7 06:54:02 2019 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 14:54:02 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>: > > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. > > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. > > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. > > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? > > Price Lindsay From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 07:13:11 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 09:13:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Real Healeys don't have alternators.???? On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, wrote: > It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>: > > > > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. > It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I > was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown > therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the > boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the > power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. > > > > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and > ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - > 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding > wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last > night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 > volts. > > > > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a > sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work > sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I > guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a > .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch > in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) > solved my problem. > > > > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? > > > > Price Lindsay > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gilrockwell at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 08:04:18 2019 From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 10:04:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004501d51d39$e654dbc0$b2fe9340$@gmail.com> Hi Price, The easiest way to find the phantom draw is to put a 12 volt bulb (use a socket for the bulb with a couple of pieces of wire to connect to the battery using "alligator clips" if available) or non-LED test light in series with the positive lead of the battery cable (at the battery) and with the ignition off, look at the bulb. If glowing, then start disconnecting one item at a time until it goes out. If the diode in the alternator is bad, disconnecting the positive lead at the alternator will extinguish the light. Heat may cause the diode to "leak" current and once it cools down, it may stop, so it may be heat dependent. In any case, an alternator repair shop can test and replace it for you. You also can buy, typically at NAPA and replacement diode assembly and install it yourself, not hard to do, use an impact wrench to remove the pulley nut and then the screws holding the case together and slip it apart. The hardest part is holding back the brushes when re-assembling, but there are holes that a straightened paper clip will fit in the hold the brushes back until you re-assemble. If not the diodes in the alternator, it can be anything electrical, so disconnecting obvious loads individually will always find the culprit. Not disconnecting more than one load at a time is important so that you don't go down a "rabbit hole" chasing many things at once. If you have a radio, that may be a good place to start, lights are always a possibility, have you checked the brake lights? Are they staying on? Pulling the fuses, one a time can ease the task of finding a circuit that is draining the battery. If the battery disconnect switch is truly "off", there should be no current flowing from the battery and the voltage should remain within a few tenths of a volt of the original reading when measured at the battery terminals after shutting the car off, even a day or two later. I can answer more direct questions after you have tried a few of the above suggestions. Gil 61 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 8:47 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. What does the wisdom of this great resource think? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jun 7 08:09:20 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 16:09:20 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: <004501d51d39$e654dbc0$b2fe9340$@gmail.com> References: <004501d51d39$e654dbc0$b2fe9340$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9a9033b2-a522-aef9-d901-54b2ee735fd0@chello.nl> Do you perhaps have an electric Smiths or Jaeger clock fitted which is not working? If not running they can draw a small continuous current and drain the battery. Kees Oudesluijs Op 7-6-2019 om 16:04 schreef Gil Rockwell: > > Hi Price, > > The easiest way to find the phantom draw is to put a 12 volt bulb (use > a socket for the bulb with a couple of pieces of wire to connect to > the battery using "alligator clips" if available) or _non_-LED test > light in series with the positive lead of the battery cable (at the > battery) and with the ignition off, look at the bulb.? If glowing, > then start disconnecting one item at a time until it goes out.? If the > diode in the alternator is bad, disconnecting the positive lead at the > alternator will extinguish the light.? Heat may cause the diode to > "leak" current and once it cools down, it may stop, so it may be heat > dependent.? In any case, an alternator repair shop can test and > replace it for you.? You also can buy, typically at NAPA and > replacement diode assembly and install it yourself, not hard to do, > use an impact wrench to remove the pulley nut and then the screws > holding the case together and slip it apart. The hardest part is > holding back the brushes when re-assembling, but there are holes that > a straightened paper clip will fit in the hold the brushes back until > you re-assemble.? If not the diodes in the alternator, it can be > anything electrical, so disconnecting obvious loads individually will > always find the culprit.? Not disconnecting more than one load at a > time is important so that you don't go down a "rabbit hole" chasing > many things at once. ??If you have a radio, that may be a good place > to start, lights are always a possibility, have you checked the brake > lights?? Are they staying on?? Pulling the fuses, one a time can ease > the task of finding a circuit that is draining the battery.? If the > battery disconnect switch is truly "off", there should be no current > flowing from the battery and the voltage should remain within a few > tenths of a volt of the original reading ?when measured at the battery > terminals after shutting the car off, even a day or two later. > > I can answer more direct questions after you have tried a few of the > above suggestions. > > Gil > > 61 BT7 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. > Lindsay > Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 8:47 AM > To: Healey List > Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw > > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my > BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day > or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must > have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my > ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the > car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the > battery was dead. > > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car > and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the > battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the > grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. > That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the > battery reads 12.33 volts. > > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a > sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work > sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the > time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of > the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing > the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is > good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. > > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Fri Jun 7 08:12:27 2019 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 14:12:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Reservoir References: <1049923867.180021.1559916747338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1049923867.180021.1559916747338@mail.yahoo.com> ListersFor the brake fluid reservoir does the outside part serve the clutch or brake master?? Don't have my car here so cant look to see.TIAKeith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 08:17:02 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 10:17:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Reservoir In-Reply-To: <1049923867.180021.1559916747338@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1049923867.180021.1559916747338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1049923867.180021.1559916747338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Keith, The outside is for the brakes. This makes sense to me because it provides a larger fluid reservoir for the more critical system. M On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 10:12 AM Keith Pennell via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Listers > For the brake fluid reservoir does the outside part serve the clutch or > brake master? Don't have my car here so cant look to see. > TIA > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 08:56:58 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 07:56:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Reservoir In-Reply-To: References: <1049923867.180021.1559916747338.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1049923867.180021.1559916747338@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: outside brakes inside clutch Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 7:17 AM Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Keith, > The outside is for the brakes. This makes sense to me because it provides > a larger fluid reservoir for the more critical system. > > M > > On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 10:12 AM Keith Pennell via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> Listers >> For the brake fluid reservoir does the outside part serve the clutch or >> brake master? Don't have my car here so cant look to see. >> TIA >> Keith >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 7 09:38:40 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 08:38:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 12.4 volts in only a half charged battery. You need to start off my putting on a slow charger until the battery is at a full charge of 12.7 volts. To eliminate the alternator for the chance of a drain simply disconnect the alternator and then check for a drain. My bet is that you have a faulty battery that is not holding its charge. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com -----Original Message----- From: R. Lindsay Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 5:47 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. So, here???s what I???ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it???s either ???good or bad??? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. What does the wisdom of this great resource think? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From llennep at verizon.net Fri Jun 7 09:49:26 2019 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 15:49:26 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock Q References: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> Hello List, Am planning to replace both rear shocks on late BJ8.? I found a pair in my stash which appear to be new (or possibly rebuilt).? Eureka!!!? Both L and R and painted black.? Both with new shock links attached.? I have had them for many years and there was minor leaking of fluid.? Tightened the 6 screws each about 1/6 turn. Question:? I am thinking while I have them on the workbench to top off the fluid.? I have two products on hand.? Sta-Lube Hydraulic & Jack Oil with no mention of shock absorbers on the label.? Bel Ray High Performance Fork Oil (20W).? Again no mention of shock absorbers.? Would either of these be satisfactory for topping oil the shock oil level? Opinions?Keith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 09:51:28 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 08:51:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock Q In-Reply-To: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I would use the fork oil Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 7, 2019 at 8:49 AM Keith Pennell via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hello List, > > Am planning to replace both rear shocks on late BJ8. I found a pair in my > stash which appear to be new (or possibly rebuilt). Eureka!!! Both L and > R and painted black. Both with new shock links attached. I have had them > for many years and there was minor leaking of fluid. Tightened the 6 > screws each about 1/6 turn. > > Question: I am thinking while I have them on the workbench to top off the > fluid. I have two products on hand. Sta-Lube Hydraulic & Jack Oil with no > mention of shock absorbers on the label. Bel Ray High Performance Fork Oil > (20W). Again no mention of shock absorbers. Would either of these be > satisfactory for topping oil the shock oil level? > > Opinions? > Keith > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jun 7 10:09:56 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 09:09:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <350680f4-6bd3-42ae-2506-4fcb3a9af4ce@comcast.net> Uh, I'm not an electrical engineer--but I play one on email lists--but it sounds like your mechanic isn't one either (not uncommon).? The diodes in an alternator perform the same function as the brushes and commutator in a generator; i.e. they rectify the alternating current--produced by rotating an electromagnet--into DC current, which your battery requires for charging and all your accessories require to, well, accessorize. Hence, they aren't doing squat when the engine isn't running--when there should be no current coming to the alternator to energize the rotor--and if you had a short somewhere and your alternator was getting current with the engine stopped it would likely heat up (see if your alternator feels warm after sitting overnight). Diodes can fail by either shorting out or opening up; most alternators have 6 of them and when one fails by opening up you lose one-sixth of your charging ability (I'd have to research it, but as solid state devices--sort of one-third of a transistor--they probably mostly fail by opening up as the silicon junctions are relatively fragile).? I'm not sure if it's an open or shorted diode that causes it--maybe both--but with a bad diode you will get all kinds of radio noise, which varies with engine speed (when I used to fly light aircraft you could tell when someone had a bad diode with serious noise in radio transmissions). Others have offered good suggestions so I'll just add that it's conceivable your ignition switch is worn allowing some current flow when in the 'off' position (after all, it's Lucas ;)).? See if it feels warm after sitting for a while (in fact, if you can get to them see if any of the electrical devices in your car feel warmer than ambient after sitting in the shade).? Your battery ground doesn't pull a load--something has to draw current that the ground cable returns to the battery--so it isn't the problem.? A nearly half-amp current draw in a 12V system will produce 6 watts of heat (nearly half of what a 60W equivalent CFL light rated at 13W will generate). Bob On 6/7/2019 6:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Real Healeys don't have alternators.???? > > On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, > wrote: > > It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. > > Per > > Skickat fr?n min iPhone > > > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com > >: > > > > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on > my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery > in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my > alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also > mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he > tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the > boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. > > > > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the > car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and > tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch > and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and > got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning > (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. > > > > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage > for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an > alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good > or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is > not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is > reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with > presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my > problem. > > > > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? > > > > Price Lindsay > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jun 7 10:48:42 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 18:48:42 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock Q In-Reply-To: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00e548c2-5543-dbd5-c7e6-2723cbb1ed00@chello.nl> Fork oil should be OK. Forks are shock absorbers so the oil will have anti foam agents. Kees Oudesluijs Op 7-6-2019 om 17:49 schreef Keith Pennell via Healeys: > Hello List, > > Am planning to replace both rear shocks on late BJ8. I found a pair in > my stash which appear to be new (or possibly rebuilt).? Eureka!!!? > Both L and R and painted black.? Both with new shock links attached.? > I have had them for many years and there was minor leaking of fluid.? > Tightened the 6 screws each about 1/6 turn. > > Question:? I am thinking while I have them on the workbench to top off > the fluid.? I have two products on hand.? Sta-Lube Hydraulic & Jack > Oil with no mention of shock absorbers on the label.? Bel Ray High > Performance Fork Oil (20W).? Again no mention of shock absorbers.? > Would either of these be satisfactory for topping oil the shock oil level? > > Opinions? > Keith > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From peter at nosimport.com Fri Jun 7 11:54:08 2019 From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 11:54:08 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock Q In-Reply-To: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <179cddef-094a-8cbf-a706-b49143114f3e@nosimport.com> Fork oil is better choice.? DO NOT OVERfill.? Just to bottom of the gasket is enough. ?? Peter C On 6/7/2019 10:49 AM, Keith Pennell via Healeys wrote: > Hello List, > > Am planning to replace both rear shocks on late BJ8. I found a pair in > my stash which appear to be new (or possibly rebuilt).? Eureka!!!? > Both L and R and painted black.? Both with new shock links attached.? > I have had them for many years and there was minor leaking of fluid.? > Tightened the 6 screws each about 1/6 turn. > > Question:? I am thinking while I have them on the workbench to top off > the fluid.? I have two products on hand.? Sta-Lube Hydraulic & Jack > Oil with no mention of shock absorbers on the label.? Bel Ray High > Performance Fork Oil (20W).? Again no mention of shock absorbers.? > Would either of these be satisfactory for topping oil the shock oil level? > > Opinions? > Keith > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com > -- World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI 2517 Seiferth Rd Madison WI 53716-3302 USA 608.223-9400 M-F 9-5 Central -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Fri Jun 7 11:04:53 2019 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 19:04:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <482124C1-44B0-4FA8-8CF0-88FF3F95CD60@schoerner.se> Price In your first note you wrote that you turned the power off in the boot and two days after that the battery was dead. You also wrote that you bypassed the power switch and all was well the day after. To me that indicates a problem with the power switch. Remember the power switch also short the ignition when in the off position. There might be a problem with the black and white wire connected to the power switch and the distributor. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>: > > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. > > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. > > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. > > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/per at schoerner.se > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Jun 7 12:29:13 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 14:29:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock Q In-Reply-To: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2043299983.251831.1559922566348.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2043299983.251831.1559922566348@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00d801d51d5e$eccac260$c6604720$@rr.com> Keith, I've been using motorcycle fork oil in my shocks for quite a while. It has seal conditioners that seem to be working well to prevent leaks. I've also used hydraulic jack oil before the fork oil. I didn't seem to make any difference in performance between the two. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith Pennell via Healeys Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 11:49 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Rear shock Q Hello List, Am planning to replace both rear shocks on late BJ8. I found a pair in my stash which appear to be new (or possibly rebuilt). Eureka!!! Both L and R and painted black. Both with new shock links attached. I have had them for many years and there was minor leaking of fluid. Tightened the 6 screws each about 1/6 turn. Question: I am thinking while I have them on the workbench to top off the fluid. I have two products on hand. Sta-Lube Hydraulic & Jack Oil with no mention of shock absorbers on the label. Bel Ray High Performance Fork Oil (20W). Again no mention of shock absorbers. Would either of these be satisfactory for topping oil the shock oil level? Opinions? Keith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Fri Jun 7 13:33:19 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 19:33:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <765245915.346179.1559935999935@mail.yahoo.com> Well, not to confuse the issue, but I replaced the OEM battery on a 2011 elantra 10 days ago ... Installation day off charger new battery was 13.04 volts .. this am (10:00) after setting 10 days read 12.45 voltsstarted/ran 10 minutes read 14.5 volts while idle key off? read 13.22 volts2 hours later (12:00) read 12.46 volts ... I can measure more (setting off) if you want That 14.5 volts at idle "sounds" high to me, as I've usually read around 13.5 volts on an alternator but ....I'm not going to 'fix' it yet Jim? (colder temperatures read lower voltages ..been 60/70's around here ...) On Friday, June 7, 2019, 12:47:46 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. What does the wisdom of this great resource think? Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jun 7 21:34:54 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 20:34:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: <350680f4-6bd3-42ae-2506-4fcb3a9af4ce@comcast.net> References: <350680f4-6bd3-42ae-2506-4fcb3a9af4ce@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5d4bdd71-523b-52a0-849c-08d415091aac@comcast.net> OK, folks, I gotta eat crow.? I'd never heard of it before, but I got to thinking about it and realized that alternator diodes are a direct path to the battery, and I did some research: /"//A leaky diode also can allow current to drain out of the battery through the alternator when the vehicle is not being driven."/ /- /https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/starting-and-charging/starters-and-alternators-common-misdiagnosis/ In my experience, diodes fail open, sort of like fuses, but if one failed short--or 'leaked'--it could draw current from the battery.?? I think the way to test for this would be to disconnect the alternator->battery lead and see if the current draw ceases (or charge the battery to a known voltage, disconnect the alternator, and see if the battery remains charged overnight).? I don't think a generator could behave like this, but I'm gonna think about it before I press 'send' before I've had my second cup of coffee. My apologies to all (including the OP's mechanic). Bob // On 6/7/2019 9:09 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Uh, I'm not an electrical engineer--but I play one on email lists--but > it sounds like your mechanic isn't one either (not uncommon).? The > diodes in an alternator perform the same function as the brushes and > commutator in a generator; i.e. they rectify the alternating > current--produced by rotating an electromagnet--into DC current, which > your battery requires for charging and all your accessories require > to, well, accessorize.? Hence, they aren't doing squat when the engine > isn't running--when there should be no current coming to the > alternator to energize the rotor--and if you had a short somewhere and > your alternator was getting current with the engine stopped it would > likely heat up (see if your alternator feels warm after sitting > overnight).? Diodes can fail by either shorting out or opening up; > most alternators have 6 of them and when one fails by opening up you > lose one-sixth of your charging ability (I'd have to research it, but > as solid state devices--sort of one-third of a transistor--they > probably mostly fail by opening up as the silicon junctions are > relatively fragile).? I'm not sure if it's an open or shorted diode > that causes it--maybe both--but with a bad diode you will get all > kinds of radio noise, which varies with engine speed (when I used to > fly light aircraft you could tell when someone had a bad diode with > serious noise in radio transmissions). > > Others have offered good suggestions so I'll just add that it's > conceivable your ignition switch is worn allowing some current flow > when in the 'off' position (after all, it's Lucas ;)).? See if it > feels warm after sitting for a while (in fact, if you can get to them > see if any of the electrical devices in your car feel warmer than > ambient after sitting in the shade).? Your battery ground doesn't pull > a load--something has to draw current that the ground cable returns to > the battery--so it isn't the problem.? A nearly half-amp current draw > in a 12V system will produce 6 watts of heat (nearly half of what a > 60W equivalent CFL light rated at 13W will generate). > > Bob > > > On 6/7/2019 6:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >> Real Healeys don't have alternators.???? >> >> On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, > > wrote: >> >> It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. >> >> Per >> >> Skickat fr?n min iPhone >> >> > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com >> >: >> > >> > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on >> my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery >> in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my >> alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also >> mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he >> tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the >> boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. >> > >> > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the >> car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and >> tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff >> switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a >> draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this >> morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. >> > >> > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage >> for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an >> alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good >> or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is >> not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is >> reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with >> presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my >> problem. >> > >> > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? >> > >> > Price Lindsay >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 7 21:53:35 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 20:53:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] More radiator Message-ID: Put my original rad back in. Shop said it flowed great, but the filler neck had issues, my thought. Electric fan did not fit between radiator and waterpump pully, so flex fan is back in. Sleeved thermostat. New radiator cap. Car ran great. No hissing or leaks after 15 min test run. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Fri Jun 7 22:30:24 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 04:30:24 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: <5d4bdd71-523b-52a0-849c-08d415091aac@comcast.net> References: <350680f4-6bd3-42ae-2506-4fcb3a9af4ce@comcast.net>, <5d4bdd71-523b-52a0-849c-08d415091aac@comcast.net> Message-ID: " I don't think a generator could behave like this..." Actually a generator will act exactly like this if the cutout circuit of the regulator (control box for the purists among us) fails in the closed position. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, June 8, 2019 3:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Draw OK, folks, I gotta eat crow. I'd never heard of it before, but I got to thinking about it and realized that alternator diodes are a direct path to the battery, and I did some research: " A leaky diode also can allow current to drain out of the battery through the alternator when the vehicle is not being driven." - https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/starting-and-charging/starters-and-alternators-common-misdiagnosis/ In my experience, diodes fail open, sort of like fuses, but if one failed short--or 'leaked'--it could draw current from the battery. I think the way to test for this would be to disconnect the alternator->battery lead and see if the current draw ceases (or charge the battery to a known voltage, disconnect the alternator, and see if the battery remains charged overnight). I don't think a generator could behave like this, but I'm gonna think about it before I press 'send' before I've had my second cup of coffee. My apologies to all (including the OP's mechanic). Bob On 6/7/2019 9:09 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: Uh, I'm not an electrical engineer--but I play one on email lists--but it sounds like your mechanic isn't one either (not uncommon). The diodes in an alternator perform the same function as the brushes and commutator in a generator; i.e. they rectify the alternating current--produced by rotating an electromagnet--into DC current, which your battery requires for charging and all your accessories require to, well, accessorize. Hence, they aren't doing squat when the engine isn't running--when there should be no current coming to the alternator to energize the rotor--and if you had a short somewhere and your alternator was getting current with the engine stopped it would likely heat up (see if your alternator feels warm after sitting overnight). Diodes can fail by either shorting out or opening up; most alternators have 6 of them and when one fails by opening up you lose one-sixth of your charging ability (I'd have to research it, but as solid state devices--sort of one-third of a transistor--they probably mostly fail by opening up as the silicon junctions are relatively fragile). I'm not sure if it's an open or shorted diode that causes it--maybe both--but with a bad diode you will get all kinds of radio noise, which varies with engine speed (when I used to fly light aircraft you could tell when someone had a bad diode with serious noise in radio transmissions). Others have offered good suggestions so I'll just add that it's conceivable your ignition switch is worn allowing some current flow when in the 'off' position (after all, it's Lucas ;)). See if it feels warm after sitting for a while (in fact, if you can get to them see if any of the electrical devices in your car feel warmer than ambient after sitting in the shade). Your battery ground doesn't pull a load--something has to draw current that the ground cable returns to the battery--so it isn't the problem. A nearly half-amp current draw in a 12V system will produce 6 watts of heat (nearly half of what a 60W equivalent CFL light rated at 13W will generate). Bob On 6/7/2019 6:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote: Real Healeys don't have alternators.???? On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, > wrote: It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>: > > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. > > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. > > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. > > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? > > Price Lindsay -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jun 7 23:01:58 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 22:01:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: <350680f4-6bd3-42ae-2506-4fcb3a9af4ce@comcast.net> <5d4bdd71-523b-52a0-849c-08d415091aac@comcast.net> Message-ID: <980776d9-44b8-12b3-850b-28d46a43605e@comcast.net> Thanks for the info, Bill. Bob On 6/7/2019 9:30 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > "I don't think a generator could behave like this..." > > Actually a generator will act exactly like this if the cutout circuit > of the regulator (control box for the purists among us) fails in the > closed position. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Saturday, June 8, 2019 3:34 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Electric Draw > > OK, folks, I gotta eat crow.? I'd never heard of it before, but I got > to thinking about it and realized that alternator diodes are a direct > path to the battery, and I did some research: > > /"//A leaky diode also can allow current to drain out of the battery > through the alternator when the vehicle is not being driven."/ > > /- > /https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/starting-and-charging/starters-and-alternators-common-misdiagnosis/ > > In my experience, diodes fail open, sort of like fuses, but if one > failed short--or 'leaked'--it could draw current from the battery.?? I > think the way to test for this would be to disconnect the > alternator->battery lead and see if the current draw ceases (or charge > the battery to a known voltage, disconnect the alternator, and see if > the battery remains charged overnight).? I don't think a generator > could behave like this, but I'm gonna think about it before I press > 'send' before I've had my second cup of coffee. > > My apologies to all (including the OP's mechanic). > > Bob > > > On 6/7/2019 9:09 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> >> Uh, I'm not an electrical engineer--but I play one on email >> lists--but it sounds like your mechanic isn't one either (not >> uncommon).? The diodes in an alternator perform the same function as >> the brushes and commutator in a generator; i.e. they rectify the >> alternating current--produced by rotating an electromagnet--into DC >> current, which your battery requires for charging and all your >> accessories require to, well, accessorize.? Hence, they aren't doing >> squat when the engine isn't running--when there should be no current >> coming to the alternator to energize the rotor--and if you had a >> short somewhere and your alternator was getting current with the >> engine stopped it would likely heat up (see if your alternator feels >> warm after sitting overnight). Diodes can fail by either shorting out >> or opening up; most alternators have 6 of them and when one fails by >> opening up you lose one-sixth of your charging ability (I'd have to >> research it, but as solid state devices--sort of one-third of a >> transistor--they probably mostly fail by opening up as the silicon >> junctions are relatively fragile).? I'm not sure if it's an open or >> shorted diode that causes it--maybe both--but with a bad diode you >> will get all kinds of radio noise, which varies with engine speed >> (when I used to fly light aircraft you could tell when someone had a >> bad diode with serious noise in radio transmissions). >> >> Others have offered good suggestions so I'll just add that it's >> conceivable your ignition switch is worn allowing some current flow >> when in the 'off' position (after all, it's Lucas ;)).? See if it >> feels warm after sitting for a while (in fact, if you can get to them >> see if any of the electrical devices in your car feel warmer than >> ambient after sitting in the shade).? Your battery ground doesn't >> pull a load--something has to draw current that the ground cable >> returns to the battery--so it isn't the problem.? A nearly half-amp >> current draw in a 12V system will produce 6 watts of heat (nearly >> half of what a 60W equivalent CFL light rated at 13W will generate). >> >> Bob >> >> >> On 6/7/2019 6:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >>> Real Healeys don't have alternators.???? >>> >>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, >> > wrote: >>> >>> It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. >>> >>> Per >>> >>> Skickat fr?n min iPhone >>> >>> > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com >>> >: >>> > >>> > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw >>> on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my >>> battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in >>> my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He >>> also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which >>> he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in >>> the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. >>> > >>> > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started >>> the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger >>> and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff >>> switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a >>> draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out >>> this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. >>> > >>> > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage >>> for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an >>> alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either >>> ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the >>> alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss >>> over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in >>> conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works >>> fine now) solved my problem. >>> > >>> > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? >>> > >>> > Price Lindsay >>> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jun 8 00:46:06 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 23:46:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic Message-ID: Not Healey-related--although I've heard Healey engines described as tractor-like--question for the List wisdom.? I have an old Ford tractor, model 851 manufactured in the early '50s, with a 4-cyl engine.?? Compression is good--145+/- on all four--and I've replaced points, condensor, distributor cap and plug wires and rebuilt the butt-simple Marvel Schebler carburettor (plugs were OK).? After the work, the tractor started quickly--after I fixed the 180deg-out distributor cap--and ran good for 15-20 minutes with a load from a scraper.? Then, it starts backfiring, tries to stall and struggle for a few seconds? then, if it doesn't die it seems to recover for another 15minutes and then the show starts again.? The coil had some corrosion in it so I replaced it, with no change.? This tractor ran consistently but very poorly under load before my work. Only thing I can think of is the carb float sticking but it was an easy rebuild and I recently rebuilt another with no issues. Any ideas? Bob From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jun 8 01:18:38 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 09:18:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> Dirty fuel causing blocked fuel filter if fitted, Fuel cap not venting causing a vacuum in the tank (my best bet), bad condensor (even new ones can be crap), plug leads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 8-6-2019 om 08:46 schreef Bob Spidell: > Not Healey-related--although I've heard Healey engines described as > tractor-like--question for the List wisdom.? I have an old Ford > tractor, model 851 manufactured in the early '50s, with a 4-cyl > engine.?? Compression is good--145+/- on all four--and I've replaced > points, condensor, distributor cap and plug wires and rebuilt the > butt-simple Marvel Schebler carburettor (plugs were OK).? After the > work, the tractor started quickly--after I fixed the 180deg-out > distributor cap--and ran good for 15-20 minutes with a load from a > scraper.? Then, it starts backfiring, tries to stall and struggle for > a few seconds? then, if it doesn't die it seems to recover for another > 15minutes and then the show starts again.? The coil had some corrosion > in it so I replaced it, with no change.? This tractor ran consistently > but very poorly under load before my work. > > Only thing I can think of is the carb float sticking but it was an > easy rebuild and I recently rebuilt another with no issues. Any ideas? > > Bob > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From bluehealey at gmail.com Sat Jun 8 01:22:30 2019 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 08:22:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw In-Reply-To: References: <350680f4-6bd3-42ae-2506-4fcb3a9af4ce@comcast.net> <5d4bdd71-523b-52a0-849c-08d415091aac@comcast.net> Message-ID: True - but the current draw would not be subtle. It truly happens occasionally and always lets the smoke out. Alan - from my iPad > On 8 Jun 2019, at 05:30, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > " I don't think a generator could behave like this..." > > Actually a generator will act exactly like this if the cutout circuit of the regulator (control box for the purists among us) fails in the closed position. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell > Sent: Saturday, June 8, 2019 3:34 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Draw > > OK, folks, I gotta eat crow. I'd never heard of it before, but I got to thinking about it and realized that alternator diodes are a direct path to the battery, and I did some research: > > " A leaky diode also can allow current to drain out of the battery through the alternator when the vehicle is not being driven." > > - https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/starting-and-charging/starters-and-alternators-common-misdiagnosis/ > > In my experience, diodes fail open, sort of like fuses, but if one failed short--or 'leaked'--it could draw current from the battery. I think the way to test for this would be to disconnect the alternator->battery lead and see if the current draw ceases (or charge the battery to a known voltage, disconnect the alternator, and see if the battery remains charged overnight). I don't think a generator could behave like this, but I'm gonna think about it before I press 'send' before I've had my second cup of coffee. > > My apologies to all (including the OP's mechanic). > > Bob > > > >> On 6/7/2019 9:09 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Uh, I'm not an electrical engineer--but I play one on email lists--but it sounds like your mechanic isn't one either (not uncommon). The diodes in an alternator perform the same function as the brushes and commutator in a generator; i.e. they rectify the alternating current--produced by rotating an electromagnet--into DC current, which your battery requires for charging and all your accessories require to, well, accessorize. Hence, they aren't doing squat when the engine isn't running--when there should be no current coming to the alternator to energize the rotor--and if you had a short somewhere and your alternator was getting current with the engine stopped it would likely heat up (see if your alternator feels warm after sitting overnight). Diodes can fail by either shorting out or opening up; most alternators have 6 of them and when one fails by opening up you lose one-sixth of your charging ability (I'd have to research it, but as solid state devices--sort of one-third of a transistor--they probably mostly fail by opening up as the silicon junctions are relatively fragile). I'm not sure if it's an open or shorted diode that causes it--maybe both--but with a bad diode you will get all kinds of radio noise, which varies with engine speed (when I used to fly light aircraft you could tell when someone had a bad diode with serious noise in radio transmissions). >> >> Others have offered good suggestions so I'll just add that it's conceivable your ignition switch is worn allowing some current flow when in the 'off' position (after all, it's Lucas ;)). See if it feels warm after sitting for a while (in fact, if you can get to them see if any of the electrical devices in your car feel warmer than ambient after sitting in the shade). Your battery ground doesn't pull a load--something has to draw current that the ground cable returns to the battery--so it isn't the problem. A nearly half-amp current draw in a 12V system will produce 6 watts of heat (nearly half of what a 60W equivalent CFL light rated at 13W will generate). >> >> Bob >> >> >> >>> On 6/7/2019 6:13 AM, Michael Salter wrote: >>> Real Healeys don't have alternators.???? >>> >>> On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, wrote: >>> It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here. >>> >>> Per >>> >>> Skickat fr?n min iPhone >>> >>> > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>: >>> > >>> > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. >>> > >>> > So, here?s what I?ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. >>> > >>> > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes and not at others. If it?s either ?good or bad? all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine now) solved my problem. >>> > >>> > What does the wisdom of this great resource think? >>> > >>> > Price Lindsay >>> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jun 8 05:10:00 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 07:10:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] More radiator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Shall we mark this one as "lesson learned"? On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 11:53 PM i erbs, wrote: > Put my original rad back in. Shop said it flowed great, but the filler > neck had issues, my thought. Electric fan did not fit between radiator and > waterpump pully, so flex fan is back in. Sleeved thermostat. New radiator > cap. Car ran great. No hissing or leaks after 15 min test run. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Jun 8 08:27:43 2019 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 10:27:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Movie - Ford vs Ferrari Message-ID: Looks very interesting! ? https://youtu.be/zyYgDtY2AMY Randy -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jun 8 08:50:58 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 07:50:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic In-Reply-To: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> References: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> Message-ID: Thanks, Kees.?? It does seem like a fuel starvation issue.? Plug wires are new and appear to be good quality. Bob On 6/8/2019 12:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > Dirty fuel causing blocked fuel filter if fitted, Fuel cap not venting > causing a vacuum in the tank (my best bet), bad condensor (even new > ones can be crap), plug leads. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 8-6-2019 om 08:46 schreef Bob Spidell: >> Not Healey-related--although I've heard Healey engines described as >> tractor-like--question for the List wisdom.? I have an old Ford >> tractor, model 851 manufactured in the early '50s, with a 4-cyl >> engine.?? Compression is good--145+/- on all four--and I've replaced >> points, condensor, distributor cap and plug wires and rebuilt the >> butt-simple Marvel Schebler carburettor (plugs were OK).? After the >> work, the tractor started quickly--after I fixed the 180deg-out >> distributor cap--and ran good for 15-20 minutes with a load from a >> scraper.? Then, it starts backfiring, tries to stall and struggle for >> a few seconds? then, if it doesn't die it seems to recover for >> another 15minutes and then the show starts again. The coil had some >> corrosion in it so I replaced it, with no change.? This tractor ran >> consistently but very poorly under load before my work. >> >> Only thing I can think of is the carb float sticking but it was an >> easy rebuild and I recently rebuilt another with no issues. Any ideas? >> >> Bob >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From manifold at telus.net Sat Jun 8 09:35:01 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 08:35:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic In-Reply-To: References: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> Message-ID: Does it have a glass bottom fuel filter at the engine? If the tractor has been sitting debris from the gas tank settles in the bottom of the engine filter and gets sucked up as the engine is running and the engine starves. Easy to clean and service as all things were in the early 50's. -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2019 7:51 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic Thanks, Kees.?? It does seem like a fuel starvation issue.? Plug wires are new and appear to be good quality. Bob On 6/8/2019 12:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > Dirty fuel causing blocked fuel filter if fitted, Fuel cap not venting > causing a vacuum in the tank (my best bet), bad condensor (even new > ones can be crap), plug leads. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 8-6-2019 om 08:46 schreef Bob Spidell: >> Not Healey-related--although I've heard Healey engines described as >> tractor-like--question for the List wisdom.? I have an old Ford >> tractor, model 851 manufactured in the early '50s, with a 4-cyl >> engine.?? Compression is good--145+/- on all four--and I've replaced >> points, condensor, distributor cap and plug wires and rebuilt the >> butt-simple Marvel Schebler carburettor (plugs were OK).? After the >> work, the tractor started quickly--after I fixed the 180deg-out >> distributor cap--and ran good for 15-20 minutes with a load from a >> scraper.? Then, it starts backfiring, tries to stall and struggle for >> a few seconds? then, if it doesn't die it seems to recover for >> another 15minutes and then the show starts again. The coil had some >> corrosion in it so I replaced it, with no change.? This tractor ran >> consistently but very poorly under load before my work. >> >> Only thing I can think of is the carb float sticking but it was an >> easy rebuild and I recently rebuilt another with no issues. Any ideas? >> >> Bob >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jun 8 09:59:37 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 08:59:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic In-Reply-To: References: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> Message-ID: Yes!? I'll check it out; been reluctant to mess with it as I've had a hard time getting a seal at the top after opening them up. Also replaced the valve at the tank because it was leaking badly (hated to do it as the old one was a Bendix and the new one is no-name--i.e. Chinese--crap).? I'll revisit that, too. Bob On 6/8/2019 8:35 AM, Harold Manifold wrote: > Does it have a glass bottom fuel filter at the engine? If the tractor has > been sitting debris from the gas tank settles in the bottom of the engine > filter and gets sucked up as the engine is running and the engine starves. > Easy to clean and service as all things were in the early 50's. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Spidell > Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2019 7:51 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic > > Thanks, Kees.?? It does seem like a fuel starvation issue.? Plug wires are > new and appear to be good quality. > > Bob > > On 6/8/2019 12:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> Dirty fuel causing blocked fuel filter if fitted, Fuel cap not venting >> causing a vacuum in the tank (my best bet), bad condensor (even new >> ones can be crap), plug leads. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 8-6-2019 om 08:46 schreef Bob Spidell: >>> Not Healey-related--although I've heard Healey engines described as >>> tractor-like--question for the List wisdom.? I have an old Ford >>> tractor, model 851 manufactured in the early '50s, with a 4-cyl >>> engine.?? Compression is good--145+/- on all four--and I've replaced >>> points, condensor, distributor cap and plug wires and rebuilt the >>> butt-simple Marvel Schebler carburettor (plugs were OK).? After the >>> work, the tractor started quickly--after I fixed the 180deg-out >>> distributor cap--and ran good for 15-20 minutes with a load from a >>> scraper.? Then, it starts backfiring, tries to stall and struggle for >>> a few seconds? then, if it doesn't die it seems to recover for >>> another 15minutes and then the show starts again. The coil had some >>> corrosion in it so I replaced it, with no change.? This tractor ran >>> consistently but very poorly under load before my work. >>> >>> Only thing I can think of is the carb float sticking but it was an >>> easy rebuild and I recently rebuilt another with no issues. Any ideas? >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> >>> From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Jun 8 15:52:27 2019 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 17:52:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise Message-ID: <43BEDFCD-6A1A-4156-B342-5D8EA56635E4@gmail.com> While driving my BJ8, I hear and feel a slight rhythmic sound/throb. It?s almost like a flat tire, but the tires are properly inflated. I had the tires balanced and shaved by a reputable firm about 5 years ago. I checked the spokes and they are in tact and seem solid. Where should I start the search for a fix?? Thank you again for your assistance!! Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jun 8 16:33:55 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Sat, 08 Jun 2019 15:33:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <43BEDFCD-6A1A-4156-B342-5D8EA56635E4@gmail.com> Message-ID: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sat Jun 8 16:37:01 2019 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 18:37:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> References: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> Message-ID: <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> They?re only 4 years old. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 8, 2019, at 6:33 PM, Mike MacLean wrote: > > How old are the tires? Tires should be no older than seven years from date of manufacture. Could be coming apart inside. > Mike MacLean From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jun 8 17:29:32 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 23:29:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> References: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1565124340.271728.1560036572212@mail.yahoo.com> How did you get them shaved 5 years ago? On Saturday, June 8, 2019, 3:37:05 PM PDT, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote: They?re only 4 years old. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 8, 2019, at 6:33 PM, Mike MacLean wrote: > > How old are the tires?? Tires should be no older than seven years from date of manufacture.? Could be coming apart inside. > Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Jun 8 19:31:41 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 21:31:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> References: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <018a01d51e63$1e471c30$5ad55490$@rr.com> How long has it been since you inspected the front wheel bearings? Changed the rear wheel bearings? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2019 6:37 PM To: Mike MacLean Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Noise They?re only 4 years old. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 8, 2019, at 6:33 PM, Mike MacLean wrote: > > How old are the tires? Tires should be no older than seven years from date of manufacture. Could be coming apart inside. > Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jun 8 19:39:54 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 18:39:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <018a01d51e63$1e471c30$5ad55490$@rr.com> References: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> <018a01d51e63$1e471c30$5ad55490$@rr.com> Message-ID: <4896a16c-1663-c29e-c314-66f43c5a784d@comcast.net> My bet's on a wheel bearing, too. Bob On 6/8/2019 6:31 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote: > How long has it been since you inspected the front wheel bearings? Changed the rear wheel bearings? > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay > Sent: Saturday, June 08, 2019 6:37 PM > To: Mike MacLean > Cc: Healey List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Noise > > They?re only 4 years old. > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 8, 2019, at 6:33 PM, Mike MacLean wrote: >> >> How old are the tires? Tires should be no older than seven years from date of manufacture. Could be coming apart inside. >> Mike MacLean > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jun 8 23:52:30 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 07:52:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <43BEDFCD-6A1A-4156-B342-5D8EA56635E4@gmail.com> References: <43BEDFCD-6A1A-4156-B342-5D8EA56635E4@gmail.com> Message-ID: Does the sound get less during braking or cornering? Could be a wheel bearing. If the profile of the tires is "cupped" it could be the tires. Kees oudesluijs Op 8-6-2019 om 23:52 schreef R. Lindsay: > While driving my BJ8, I hear and feel a slight rhythmic sound/throb. It?s almost like a flat tire, but the tires are properly inflated. I had the tires balanced and shaved by a reputable firm about 5 years ago. I checked the spokes and they are in tact and seem solid. > > Where should I start the search for a fix?? Thank you again for your assistance!! > > Price Lindsay > > Cell: 630-841-6300 > Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From warthodson at aol.com Sun Jun 9 06:36:12 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 12:36:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Noise In-Reply-To: <4896a16c-1663-c29e-c314-66f43c5a784d@comcast.net> References: <51640cb2-d12a-43f0-989a-5227325ce6df@email.android.com> <0B947AF0-7128-489C-9E4F-56BCB1BD81E9@gmail.com> <018a01d51e63$1e471c30$5ad55490$@rr.com> <4896a16c-1663-c29e-c314-66f43c5a784d@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1831720923.382243.1560083772722@mail.yahoo.com> Usually, the sound a wheel bearing makes will change when going around a corner. Try that & let us know if the sound changes.? > How long has it? been since you inspected the front wheel bearings?? Changed the rear wheel bearings? > > Steve Byers > > > > -----Original Message----- > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wheel Noise > > They?re only 4 years old. > > Price Lindsay > > >> On Jun 8, 2019, at 6:33 PM, Mike MacLean wrote: >> >> How old are the tires?? Tires should be no older than seven years from date of manufacture.? Could be coming apart inside. >> Mike MacLean > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david at dleong.org Sun Jun 9 11:23:34 2019 From: david at dleong.org (David Leong) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:23:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys taking the F1 drivers on the drivers parade. Live right now Message-ID: https://www.facebook.com/Formula1/videos/374335636621951/ Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jun 9 12:19:17 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 14:19:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys taking the F1 drivers on the drivers parade. Liveright now In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks David. Good to see the Austin Healey?s motoring, albeit slowly, around the track. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 15:19:44 2019 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:19:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat Message-ID: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> I am considering towing my BJ8 with a tow bar attached to the front of the frame. The problem I find is that on most sites I have searched, listeners say you have to disconnect the propeller/driveshaft because the transmission will not be lubricating the gears. As our Healey's are not automatic transmissions I do not see the why not. Another group of comment is that the manual trans gears would not be lubricated. Although I am not expert in the transmission it seems to me that with all the oil we put in the Healey trans all the gears must be at least half immersed and well lubricated. I have spoken to several Healey drivers at Conclave and shows over the past few years who have towed their Healey flat to the show and all have said "works great without any problems with the trans connected". My own experience was with my girlfriends soon to become wife in 1968 to get her TR3 to Phoenix. I got a driveaway deal (remember those?) from Budget Chicago to take a car to Phoenix. I rented a bumper hitch from Uhaul with clamps to the bumper of her 1962 TR3. Remember big bumpers on American Cars! I drove it via US 66 all the way to Phoenix through a rain and sleet storm in November. It followed me very nicely. We drove it for 2 years around AZ until I finished my MBA and never had a transmission problem. Oh yes, back in the day, we were told that British Cars were designed to have a person in the drivers seat so if you tow one you should put a weight in the drivers seat otherwise the car will want to lean or list to starboard. Never understood that comment. Nevertheless, I put a duffel bag of clothes just in case. Again, it followed me very nicely. So I want to use my 3.8 V6 Chrysler Pacifica 2005 SUV which can handle 3500 lbs up to 5000 lbs. if you are pulling flat with very little load on the tongue. So it can handle the load. I have pictures of a tow bar made for the BJ8 which bolts to the front of the frame my friend can fabricate. I seek comments from the list. Who has experience with Towing Flat? Regards, Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jun 9 15:31:08 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 23:31:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: A car with a manual gearbox can be towed over ant distance without any problems. Gears spin so oil is splashed about in the box, same for the rear axle. The problem lies with conventional automatic boxes which generally cannot be towed over any distance. Other automatic gearboxes may (e.g. variomatic) or may not be towed. Kees Oudesluijs Op 9-6-2019 om 23:19 schreef Robert Begani: > > I am considering towing my BJ8 with a tow bar attached to the front of > the frame.? The problem I find is that on most sites I have searched, > ?listeners say you have to disconnect the propeller/driveshaft because > the transmission will not be lubricating the gears.? As our Healey?s > are not automatic transmissions I do not see the why not. ?Another > group of comment is that the manual trans gears would not be > lubricated. Although I am not expert in the transmission it seems to > me that with all the oil we put in the Healey trans all the gears must > be at least half immersed and well lubricated. > > I have spoken to several Healey drivers at Conclave and shows over the > past few years who have towed their Healey flat to the show and all > have said ?works great without any problems with the trans > connected?.? My own experience was with my girlfriends soon to become > wife in 1968 to get her TR3 to Phoenix. I got a driveaway deal > (remember those?) from Budget Chicago to take a car to Phoenix. I > rented a bumper hitch from Uhaul with clamps to the bumper of her 1962 > TR3. Remember big bumpers on American Cars! I drove it via US 66 all > the way to Phoenix through a rain and sleet storm in November. ?It > followed me very nicely.? We drove it for 2 years around AZ until I > finished my MBA and never had a transmission problem. > > Oh yes, back in the day, we were told that British Cars were designed > to have a person in the drivers seat so if you tow one you should put > a weight in the drivers seat otherwise the car will want to lean or > list to starboard. Never understood that comment.? Nevertheless, I put > a duffel bag of clothes just in case.? Again, it followed me very nicely. > > So I want to use my 3.8 V6 Chrysler Pacifica 2005 SUV which can handle > 3500 lbs up to 5000 lbs. if you are pulling flat with very little load > on the tongue. So it can handle the load. I have pictures of a tow bar > made for the BJ8 which bolts to the front of the frame my friend can > fabricate.?? I seek comments from the list. > > Who has experience with Towing Flat? > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 15:38:18 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 14:38:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: just make sure its in neutral and not in gear. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 2:31 PM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > A car with a manual gearbox can be towed over ant distance without any > problems. Gears spin so oil is splashed about in the box, same for the rear > axle. The problem lies with conventional automatic boxes which generally > cannot be towed over any distance. Other automatic gearboxes may (e.g. > variomatic) or may not be towed. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 9-6-2019 om 23:19 schreef Robert Begani: > > I am considering towing my BJ8 with a tow bar attached to the front of the > frame. The problem I find is that on most sites I have searched, > listeners say you have to disconnect the propeller/driveshaft because the > transmission will not be lubricating the gears. As our Healey?s are not > automatic transmissions I do not see the why not. Another group of comment > is that the manual trans gears would not be lubricated. Although I am not > expert in the transmission it seems to me that with all the oil we put in > the Healey trans all the gears must be at least half immersed and well > lubricated. > > > > I have spoken to several Healey drivers at Conclave and shows over the > past few years who have towed their Healey flat to the show and all have > said ?works great without any problems with the trans connected?. My own > experience was with my girlfriends soon to become wife in 1968 to get her > TR3 to Phoenix. I got a driveaway deal (remember those?) from Budget > Chicago to take a car to Phoenix. I rented a bumper hitch from Uhaul with > clamps to the bumper of her 1962 TR3. Remember big bumpers on American > Cars! I drove it via US 66 all the way to Phoenix through a rain and sleet > storm in November. It followed me very nicely. We drove it for 2 years > around AZ until I finished my MBA and never had a transmission problem. > > > > Oh yes, back in the day, we were told that British Cars were designed to > have a person in the drivers seat so if you tow one you should put a weight > in the drivers seat otherwise the car will want to lean or list to > starboard. Never understood that comment. Nevertheless, I put a duffel bag > of clothes just in case. Again, it followed me very nicely. > > > > So I want to use my 3.8 V6 Chrysler Pacifica 2005 SUV which can handle > 3500 lbs up to 5000 lbs. if you are pulling flat with very little load on > the tongue. So it can handle the load. I have pictures of a tow bar made > for the BJ8 which bolts to the front of the frame my friend can > fabricate. I seek comments from the list. > > > > > > Who has experience with Towing Flat? > > > > Regards, > > > > Bob Begani > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > Virus-free. www.avg.com <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 15:41:20 2019 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:41:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <011801d51f0c$14517910$3cf46b30$@gmail.com> We tow our 2012 Ford Escape manual transmission flat behind our Motorhome. Sometimes we are moving at over 70 mph. No problems at all. We've probably done this for 70,000 miles? On the other hand, I'd probably not do this with the Healey because the motorhome really can't detect the weight of the car. If something went wrong we'd not know about it until some other driver motioned to us, or we arrived at destination with beat up car. The Healey just seems more delicate than the Ford. In our case, we tow the Healey in an enclosed (weather-tight) car hauler trailer behind the Motorhome. On the other, other hand, you mention you want to do this behind an SUV. You would probably notice if something was amiss with the Healey behind an SUV. The things that can go wrong are 3 fold: 1. The car can somehow slip out of neutral into one of the gears. At which point, the engine will probably overrev and be destroyed --- or put so much drag on the SUV that you'd recognize an issue right away and suffer no bad issues. 2. The car's steering can get skew wiff and you find yourself dragging a car which wants to move to a different lane. Probably easily avoided by bungie cord tying the steering wheel to have a strong preference for going straight. (Don't overdo it though, the steering wheel of a towed car must be allowed latitude to move a bit.) 3. The car's brakes might get hot and expand to the point that the brakes start to drag. Tire damage could ensue. Again, you'd probably notice the issue before damage happened. In other words, I'd say go for it with the SUV. Although you'll probably find the Healey is pretty dirty when you arrive at your destination . J Best wishes.. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Begani Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 5:20 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat I am considering towing my BJ8 with a tow bar attached to the front of the frame. The problem I find is that on most sites I have searched, listeners say you have to disconnect the propeller/driveshaft because the transmission will not be lubricating the gears. As our Healey's are not automatic transmissions I do not see the why not. Another group of comment is that the manual trans gears would not be lubricated. Although I am not expert in the transmission it seems to me that with all the oil we put in the Healey trans all the gears must be at least half immersed and well lubricated. I have spoken to several Healey drivers at Conclave and shows over the past few years who have towed their Healey flat to the show and all have said "works great without any problems with the trans connected". My own experience was with my girlfriends soon to become wife in 1968 to get her TR3 to Phoenix. I got a driveaway deal (remember those?) from Budget Chicago to take a car to Phoenix. I rented a bumper hitch from Uhaul with clamps to the bumper of her 1962 TR3. Remember big bumpers on American Cars! I drove it via US 66 all the way to Phoenix through a rain and sleet storm in November. It followed me very nicely. We drove it for 2 years around AZ until I finished my MBA and never had a transmission problem. Oh yes, back in the day, we were told that British Cars were designed to have a person in the drivers seat so if you tow one you should put a weight in the drivers seat otherwise the car will want to lean or list to starboard. Never understood that comment. Nevertheless, I put a duffel bag of clothes just in case. Again, it followed me very nicely. So I want to use my 3.8 V6 Chrysler Pacifica 2005 SUV which can handle 3500 lbs up to 5000 lbs. if you are pulling flat with very little load on the tongue. So it can handle the load. I have pictures of a tow bar made for the BJ8 which bolts to the front of the frame my friend can fabricate. I seek comments from the list. Who has experience with Towing Flat? Regards, Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 15:43:13 2019 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:43:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <042683F1-B972-4C2E-ACBC-272190B9C2E9@gmail.com> Remove the drive shaft!! One of our Midwest member?s destroyed a gear box when it slipped into gear going to Conclave one year. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 9, 2019, at 5:38 PM, i erbs wrote: > > just make sure its in neutral and not in gear. > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > >> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 2:31 PM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> A car with a manual gearbox can be towed over ant distance without any problems. Gears spin so oil is splashed about in the box, same for the rear axle. The problem lies with conventional automatic boxes which generally cannot be towed over any distance. Other automatic gearboxes may (e.g. variomatic) or may not be towed. >> >> Kees Oudesluijs >> >> >> >> Op 9-6-2019 om 23:19 schreef Robert Begani: >>> I am considering towing my BJ8 with a tow bar attached to the front of the frame. The problem I find is that on most sites I have searched, listeners say you have to disconnect the propeller/driveshaft because the transmission will not be lubricating the gears. As our Healey?s are not automatic transmissions I do not see the why not. Another group of comment is that the manual trans gears would not be lubricated. Although I am not expert in the transmission it seems to me that with all the oil we put in the Healey trans all the gears must be at least half immersed and well lubricated. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have spoken to several Healey drivers at Conclave and shows over the past few years who have towed their Healey flat to the show and all have said ?works great without any problems with the trans connected?. My own experience was with my girlfriends soon to become wife in 1968 to get her TR3 to Phoenix. I got a driveaway deal (remember those?) from Budget Chicago to take a car to Phoenix. I rented a bumper hitch from Uhaul with clamps to the bumper of her 1962 TR3. Remember big bumpers on American Cars! I drove it via US 66 all the way to Phoenix through a rain and sleet storm in November. It followed me very nicely. We drove it for 2 years around AZ until I finished my MBA and never had a transmission problem. >>> >>> >>> >>> Oh yes, back in the day, we were told that British Cars were designed to have a person in the drivers seat so if you tow one you should put a weight in the drivers seat otherwise the car will want to lean or list to starboard. Never understood that comment. Nevertheless, I put a duffel bag of clothes just in case. Again, it followed me very nicely. >>> >>> >>> >>> So I want to use my 3.8 V6 Chrysler Pacifica 2005 SUV which can handle 3500 lbs up to 5000 lbs. if you are pulling flat with very little load on the tongue. So it can handle the load. I have pictures of a tow bar made for the BJ8 which bolts to the front of the frame my friend can fabricate. I seek comments from the list. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Who has experience with Towing Flat? >>> >>> >>> >>> Regards, >>> >>> >>> >>> Bob Begani >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> > > > Virus-free. www.avg.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 15:57:41 2019 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:57:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey Flat Message-ID: <009e01d51f0e$5d3ab770$17b02650$@gmail.com> Hi Jerry: Attached is a picture of the attachment to the frame I found. Uses existing frame bolts so I can simply unbolt it and drive around without problems. Will consider the idea of replacing the bumper with a channel. As kees just commented the trans and overdrive along with the differential are bathed in oil so I cannot understand why I have to disconnect the drive shaft. Then again Price reminds me of the one that shifted into gear. Bob From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 5:39 PM To: Robert Begani Subject: Re: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat I towed BN2 to Columbus Ohio and back to Dallas/Ft Worth area flat. I replaced front bumper with 3?-4? channel so not to bend bumper. I did disconnect drive shaft so not to damage OD. Better safe than sorrys Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: austin healey tow bar .jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 23805 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: austin healey tow bar 1 .jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 14857 bytes Desc: not available URL: From 050.rpl at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 16:05:17 2019 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 18:05:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey Flat In-Reply-To: <009e01d51f0e$5d3ab770$17b02650$@gmail.com> References: <009e01d51f0e$5d3ab770$17b02650$@gmail.com> Message-ID: If you were to hit a good sized hole the shake may cause the trans to shift into gear. I?d rather be safe than have to rebuild a transmission or rear end. Just sayin?. Price Lindsay Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 9, 2019, at 5:57 PM, Robert Begani wrote: > > Hi Jerry: > > Attached is a picture of the attachment to the frame I found. Uses existing frame bolts so I can simply unbolt it and drive around without problems. Will consider the idea of replacing the bumper with a channel. As kees just commented the trans and overdrive along with the differential are bathed in oil so I cannot understand why I have to disconnect the drive shaft. Then again Price reminds me of the one that shifted into gear. > > > Bob > > From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com > Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 5:39 PM > To: Robert Begani > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat > > I towed BN2 to Columbus Ohio and back to Dallas/Ft Worth area flat. I replaced front bumper with 3?-4? channel so not to bend bumper. I did disconnect drive shaft so not to damage OD. Better safe than sorrys > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/050.rpl at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From neilandcustom at gmail.com Sun Jun 9 16:42:41 2019 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:42:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey Flat In-Reply-To: <009e01d51f0e$5d3ab770$17b02650$@gmail.com> References: <009e01d51f0e$5d3ab770$17b02650$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Those are my photos and my tow bar I made over forty years ago. It was made to attach to the inside of the front frame rails using the same threaded bushings that the bumper brackets attach to on the outside of the frame rails. That way you wouldn't have to remove the bumper. The tow bar receiver extended out in front of the bumper. I still have the tow bar, but have not used it in many, many years. I think I did disconnect the u-joint at the diff when I used it to tow my BT7. For those in Australia, you could leave the receiver attached to the Healey and then attach a sturdy "Roo Bar" to it. Happy Healeying, Neil Anderson On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 4:58 PM Robert Begani wrote: > Hi Jerry: > > > > Attached is a picture of the attachment to the frame I found. Uses > existing frame bolts so I can simply unbolt it and drive around without > problems. Will consider the idea of replacing the bumper with a channel. > As kees just commented the trans and overdrive along with the differential > are bathed in oil so I cannot understand why I have to disconnect the drive > shaft. Then again Price reminds me of the one that shifted into gear. > > > > > > Bob > > > > *From:* cjerryadams at yahoo.com > *Sent:* Sunday, June 9, 2019 5:39 PM > *To:* Robert Begani > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat > > > > I towed BN2 to Columbus Ohio and back to Dallas/Ft Worth area flat. I > replaced front bumper with 3?-4? channel so not to bend bumper. I did > disconnect drive shaft so not to damage OD. Better safe than sorrys > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jun 9 19:49:50 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 19:49:50 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <695f96f2-1fbb-35a3-648e-93a0d814c5ec@bradakis.com> When driving the car, the transmission gears and bearings get lubricated by the oil splashing around inside.? It splashes around because the laygears are spinning all the time because the input shaft is spinning all the time.? When you tow a car with the driveshaft connected, the engine is not turning, so the input shaft is not turning, so the laygear is not turning so the oil is NOT getting splashed around.? The rear tail bearing is NOT getting lubricated, the rear main bearing is NOT getting lubricated, the mainshaft is NOT getting lubricated, the syncros are NOT getting lubricated, but they are all spinning around.? For short distances, not a problem.? For longer distances, if you fire up the car for a minute or two every time you gas up the tow vehicle and still leave it in neutral to let the laygear splash the oil around you should be getting enough lube on the mainshaft and its components to keep it from burning up until the next stop. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jun 9 20:02:16 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 20:02:16 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: On 6/9/19 3:31 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > A car with a manual gearbox can be towed over ant distance without any > problems. Gears spin so oil is splashed about in the box, same for the > rear axle. > This is incorrect.? When towing, NONE of the gears are moving, NO oil is getting splashed around. mjb. From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jun 9 20:21:38 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 19:21:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys taking the F1 drivers on the drivers parade. Liveright now In-Reply-To: <20190609182044.C2E95A1863@autox.team.net> References: <20190609182044.C2E95A1863@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <6bf06a51-08f0-8ace-c145-70a61bd9e815@comcast.net> I'm not an F1 fan, but found this graphic interesting: https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/06/09/upshot/canadian-grand-prix.html?action=click&module=Well&pgtype=Homepage§ion=The%20Upshot On 6/9/2019 11:19 AM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > > Thanks David.? Good to see the Austin Healey?s motoring, albeit > slowly, around the track. > > Perry > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Sun Jun 9 21:48:36 2019 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Sun, 09 Jun 2019 20:48:36 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?towing_a_healey_flat?= Message-ID: <20190610034836.27333.qmail@server278.com> many years ago i towed my healey from medford, oregon to las vegas with a ford escape over the mountains with no problems. did not drop driveline. still driving the car with no transmission problems so far. From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Jun 10 07:39:44 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 10 Jun 2019 09:39:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey Flat In-Reply-To: References: <009e01d51f0e$5d3ab770$17b02650$@gmail.com> Message-ID: I have a collapsible tow bar similar to that pictured. I modified it by cutting off the ends and having suitable solid round stock welded onto the inner faces which fit into tow-eyes which bolt onto the longitudinal frame rails. The car tows and tracks perfectly (though one cannot back up while attached). I have a Smitty's five-speed conversion and though I am not 100% certain I have a number of opinions off of Toyota forums saying that there is sufficient splash-lubrication supplied from the output shaft's rotation to avoid internal damage. Nevertheless on the few occasions I have towed more than short distances I have, every 50 miles or so, stopped and run the engine for a while to get the input shaft spinning to provide lubrication. So far so good. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 6:43 PM Neil Anderson wrote: > Those are my photos and my tow bar I made over forty years ago. It was > made to attach to the inside of the front frame rails using the same > threaded bushings that the bumper brackets attach to on the outside of the > frame rails. That way you wouldn't have to remove the bumper. The tow bar > receiver extended out in front of the bumper. > > I still have the tow bar, but have not used it in many, many years. I > think I did disconnect the u-joint at the diff when I used it to tow my BT7. > > For those in Australia, you could leave the receiver attached to the > Healey and then attach a sturdy "Roo Bar" to it. > > Happy Healeying, > > Neil Anderson > > On Sun, Jun 9, 2019 at 4:58 PM Robert Begani wrote: > >> Hi Jerry: >> >> >> >> Attached is a picture of the attachment to the frame I found. Uses >> existing frame bolts so I can simply unbolt it and drive around without >> problems. Will consider the idea of replacing the bumper with a channel. >> As kees just commented the trans and overdrive along with the differential >> are bathed in oil so I cannot understand why I have to disconnect the drive >> shaft. Then again Price reminds me of the one that shifted into gear. >> >> >> >> >> >> Bob >> >> >> >> *From:* cjerryadams at yahoo.com >> *Sent:* Sunday, June 9, 2019 5:39 PM >> *To:* Robert Begani >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat >> >> >> >> I towed BN2 to Columbus Ohio and back to Dallas/Ft Worth area flat. I >> replaced front bumper with 3?-4? channel so not to bend bumper. I did >> disconnect drive shaft so not to damage OD. Better safe than sorrys >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Jun 9 15:30:41 2019 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 9 Jun 2019 17:30:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat In-Reply-To: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> References: <01f101d51f09$1290e4b0$37b2ae10$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000001d51f0a$97218cb0$c564a610$@verizon.net> I towed my Healey from Las Vegas to New Jersey using a front wheel carrier. Did not disconnect the transmission. No problems. John Sims www.healey6.com Aberdeen, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Robert Begani Sent: Sunday, June 9, 2019 5:20 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Towing a Healey flat I am considering towing my BJ8 with a tow bar attached to the front of the frame. The problem I find is that on most sites I have searched, listeners say you have to disconnect the propeller/driveshaft because the transmission will not be lubricating the gears. As our Healey's are not automatic transmissions I do not see the why not. Another group of comment is that the manual trans gears would not be lubricated. Although I am not expert in the transmission it seems to me that with all the oil we put in the Healey trans all the gears must be at least half immersed and well lubricated. I have spoken to several Healey drivers at Conclave and shows over the past few years who have towed their Healey flat to the show and all have said "works great without any problems with the trans connected". My own experience was with my girlfriends soon to become wife in 1968 to get her TR3 to Phoenix. I got a driveaway deal (remember those?) from Budget Chicago to take a car to Phoenix. I rented a bumper hitch from Uhaul with clamps to the bumper of her 1962 TR3. Remember big bumpers on American Cars! I drove it via US 66 all the way to Phoenix through a rain and sleet storm in November. It followed me very nicely. We drove it for 2 years around AZ until I finished my MBA and never had a transmission problem. Oh yes, back in the day, we were told that British Cars were designed to have a person in the drivers seat so if you tow one you should put a weight in the drivers seat otherwise the car will want to lean or list to starboard. Never understood that comment. Nevertheless, I put a duffel bag of clothes just in case. Again, it followed me very nicely. So I want to use my 3.8 V6 Chrysler Pacifica 2005 SUV which can handle 3500 lbs up to 5000 lbs. if you are pulling flat with very little load on the tongue. So it can handle the load. I have pictures of a tow bar made for the BJ8 which bolts to the front of the frame my friend can fabricate. I seek comments from the list. Who has experience with Towing Flat? Regards, Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jun 12 03:55:38 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 09:55:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Assembly Finished References: <134774270.260129.1560333339024.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <134774270.260129.1560333339024@mail.yahoo.com> Well, the driver's side finished? tonight anyway.? Just wanted to let the list know I assembled the axle to the leaf spring tonight.? Many thanks for all the suggestions from the list on how to do this.? I ended up doing it the way restorer Lynn Martin told me. (www.4everhealeys.com)? Curt Arndt of the San Diego club got me in touch with Lynn.? In an email Lynn explained how he does it.? Put a floor jack under the leaf spring and wrap a chain under the floor jack and around the axle housing inside of the u-bolt location.? I used a tie down strap instead of a chain.? Worked just fine.? You then set a bottle jack on top of the floor jack and under the u-bolt plate and lift the spring into place with the bottle jack.? Easy peezy.? Well, not that easy.? Took a little fiddling to get everything to line up so the packing piece and the u-bolt plate hole lined up with the pin on the bottom of the leaf spring.? At the same time the hole in the welded box section of the axle had to line up with the pin on the top of the leaf spring.? I had to persuade the axle housing to move a little towards the passenger side to get the top pin in the hole.? The panhard bar bushings had to be compressed a little to get everything in place.? I used another tie down strap wrapped around the frame to pull it in the right direction.? The pumpkin was held up into place with another floor jack.? Tomorrow the other side, then on to the front suspension which is all rebuilt.? It just needs to be bolted in.? Can't exactly see the light at the end of the tunnel yet, but it's moving along. I have included a picture to help illustrate what Lynn was talking about.? The second picture is a little fuzzy, but shows everything connected.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Bottle Jack3.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 210107 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Done2.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 196207 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Jun 12 05:27:05 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 07:27:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Assembly Finished In-Reply-To: <134774270.260129.1560333339024@mail.yahoo.com> References: <134774270.260129.1560333339024.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <134774270.260129.1560333339024@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Just be thankful that your car isn't a BN1 where you have to add a tapered wedge into the equation ? On Wed, Jun 12, 2019, 5:56 AM Michael MacLean, wrote: > Well, the driver's side finished tonight anyway. Just wanted to let the > list know I assembled the axle to the leaf spring tonight. Many thanks for > all the suggestions from the list on how to do this. I ended up doing it > the way restorer Lynn Martin told me. (www.4everhealeys.com) Curt Arndt > of the San Diego club got me in touch with Lynn. In an email Lynn > explained how he does it. Put a floor jack under the leaf spring and wrap > a chain under the floor jack and around the axle housing inside of the > u-bolt location. I used a tie down strap instead of a chain. Worked just > fine. You then set a bottle jack on top of the floor jack and under the > u-bolt plate and lift the spring into place with the bottle jack. Easy > peezy. Well, not that easy. Took a little fiddling to get everything to > line up so the packing piece and the u-bolt plate hole lined up with the > pin on the bottom of the leaf spring. At the same time the hole in the > welded box section of the axle had to line up with the pin on the top of > the leaf spring. I had to persuade the axle housing to move a little > towards the passenger side to get the top pin in the hole. The panhard bar > bushings had to be compressed a little to get everything in place. I used > another tie down strap wrapped around the frame to pull it in the right > direction. The pumpkin was held up into place with another floor jack. > Tomorrow the other side, then on to the front suspension which is all > rebuilt. It just needs to be bolted in. Can't exactly see the light at > the end of the tunnel yet, but it's moving along. I have included a picture > to help illustrate what Lynn was talking about. The second picture is a > little fuzzy, but shows everything connected. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Jun 12 08:50:27 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 14:50:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Assembly Finished In-Reply-To: References: <134774270.260129.1560333339024.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <134774270.260129.1560333339024@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: I don't remember having that much trouble with mine, but my springs still have too much camber. They won't compress enough to give the correct ride height. I saw someone on the list a while back showing some springs he got which seemed to be correct. Can anyone give me the correct camber measurement so I can have mine re-arched? Thanks. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 11:27 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Leaf Spring Assembly Finished Just be thankful that your car isn't a BN1 where you have to add a tapered wedge into the equation ? On Wed, Jun 12, 2019, 5:56 AM Michael MacLean, > wrote: Well, the driver's side finished tonight anyway. Just wanted to let the list know I assembled the axle to the leaf spring tonight. Many thanks for all the suggestions from the list on how to do this. I ended up doing it the way restorer Lynn Martin told me. (www.4everhealeys.com) Curt Arndt of the San Diego club got me in touch with Lynn. In an email Lynn explained how he does it. Put a floor jack under the leaf spring and wrap a chain under the floor jack and around the axle housing inside of the u-bolt location. I used a tie down strap instead of a chain. Worked just fine. You then set a bottle jack on top of the floor jack and under the u-bolt plate and lift the spring into place with the bottle jack. Easy peezy. Well, not that easy. Took a little fiddling to get everything to line up so the packing piece and the u-bolt plate hole lined up with the pin on the bottom of the leaf spring. At the same time the hole in the welded box section of the axle had to line up with the pin on the top of the leaf spring. I had to persuade the axle housing to move a little towards the passenger side to get the top pin in the hole. The panhard bar bushings had to be compressed a little to get everything in place. I used another tie down strap wrapped around the frame to pull it in the right direction. The pumpkin was held up into place with another floor jack. Tomorrow the other side, then on to the front suspension which is all rebuilt. It just needs to be bolted in. Can't exactly see the light at the end of the tunnel yet, but it's moving along. I have included a picture to help illustrate what Lynn was talking about. The second picture is a little fuzzy, but shows everything connected. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.fawcett at cox.net Wed Jun 12 12:13:07 2019 From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 11:13:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] brake servo Message-ID: I'm going to install an aftermarket Powertune power brake servo on my BT7. Could anyone send me a photo of the location of the servo? And any helpful information on fitting it. Thanks in advance Mark Fawcett -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Jun 13 03:00:43 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 19:00:43 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements Message-ID: <013d01d521c6$7c8611a0$759234e0$@tpg.com.au> Hello Over the last year and a half I have included a series in the Australian Austin-Healey called 'Who Made What!' and there have been articles on what companies made various Austin-Healey components. So far that's included chassis, body panels, tyres, spark plugs, brightwork and instruments. Next I want to write about Lucas Industries, but as with those companies covered previously I would like to include period press advertisements, especially those including Austin-Healeys. So if anyone would have copies of period Lucas Industries press ads that can send me it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Thu Jun 13 06:44:17 2019 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 08:44:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements In-Reply-To: <013d01d521c6$7c8611a0$759234e0$@tpg.com.au> References: <013d01d521c6$7c8611a0$759234e0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <1542646966.4157991.1560429857662.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Patrick, How can I access your articles on "Who Made What"? Thanks. Regards, Charlie Schott Panama City Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 4:00:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements Hello Over the last year and a half I have included a series in the Australian Austin-Healey called ?Who Made What!? and there have been articles on what companies made various Austin-Healey components. So far that?s included chassis, body panels, tyres, spark plugs, brightwork and instruments. Next I want to write about Lucas Industries, but as with those companies covered previously I would like to include period press advertisements, especially those including Austin-Healeys. So if anyone would have copies of period Lucas Industries press ads that can send me it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Jun 13 15:28:46 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 07:28:46 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements In-Reply-To: <1542646966.4157991.1560429857662.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <013d01d521c6$7c8611a0$759234e0$@tpg.com.au> <1542646966.4157991.1560429857662.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <005701d5222e$fd3d4a30$f7b7de90$@tpg.com.au> Hello They are not available online. The first was published in late 2017 in the hard copy Australian Austin-Healey. Could send you digital versions of the whole publication in lower res. Hoo Roo Patrick From: Charles Schott [mailto:schottc at knology.net] Sent: Thursday, 13 June 2019 10:44 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements Patrick, How can I access your articles on "Who Made What"? Thanks. Regards, Charlie Schott Panama City Beach, FL _____ From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 4:00:43 AM Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements Hello Over the last year and a half I have included a series in the Australian Austin-Healey called ?Who Made What!? and there have been articles on what companies made various Austin-Healey components. So far that?s included chassis, body panels, tyres, spark plugs, brightwork and instruments. Next I want to write about Lucas Industries, but as with those companies covered previously I would like to include period press advertisements, especially those including Austin-Healeys. So if anyone would have copies of period Lucas Industries press ads that can send me it would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Jun 13 17:54:07 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 23:54:07 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements References: <1484248228.1038227.1560470047661.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1484248228.1038227.1560470047661@mail.yahoo.com> Patrick,I searched many of my old magazines but could not find a Lucas Ad specifically referencing Austin-Healey.However, I did find two interesting issues of "The Autocar" of special interest.2 July 1954 has a full page advertisement on the back cover by Wilmot Breeden with a beautiful engraving of an Austin-Healey 100 parked in front of a cricket pitch. It is in black, green & yellow. I think I have sent this to you before but I can scan it again if you want it. October 2, 1953 (The Autocar) contains 20-40 congratulatory Ads from every supplier imaginable including Austin-Healey's own self congratulatory Ad for world record smashing performance. "World's fastest production car under 3000 cc. capacity". Many are full page Ads. Lucas has a full page Ad on the back cover for their headlights, but does not mention Austin-Healey. Since many, if not most or even all, British car manufacturers used Lucas electronics they probably did not want to offend any customers. ? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <!-- #yiv7993411470 _filtered #yiv7993411470 {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7993411470 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv7993411470 #yiv7993411470 p.yiv7993411470MsoNormal, #yiv7993411470 li.yiv7993411470MsoNormal, #yiv7993411470 div.yiv7993411470MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} #yiv7993411470 a:link, #yiv7993411470 span.yiv7993411470MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv7993411470 a:visited, #yiv7993411470 span.yiv7993411470MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv7993411470 span.yiv7993411470EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Times New Roman", "serif";color:windowtext;} #yiv7993411470 .yiv7993411470MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", "sans-serif";} _filtered #yiv7993411470 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;} #yiv7993411470 div.yiv7993411470WordSection1 {} -->Hello ?Over the last year and a half I have included a series in the Australian Austin-Healey called ?Who Made What!? and there have been articles on what companies made various Austin-Healey components. ?So far that?s included chassis, body panels, tyres, spark plugs, brightwork and instruments. ?Next I want to write about Lucas Industries, but as with those companies covered previously I would like to include period press advertisements, especially those including Austin-Healeys. ?So if anyone would have copies of period Lucas Industries press ads that can send me it would be greatly appreciated. ?Many thanks ?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia | | | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jun 13 18:23:44 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 17:23:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas Advertisements In-Reply-To: <1484248228.1038227.1560470047661@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1484248228.1038227.1560470047661.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1484248228.1038227.1560470047661@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Not Healey-specific, but I picked this poster up years ago because, well, I liked it.? But, for some strange reason none of my significant others have cared for it. Bob On 6/13/2019 4:54 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > Patrick, > I searched many of my old magazines but could not find a Lucas Ad > specifically referencing Austin-Healey. > However, I did find two interesting issues of "The Autocar" of special > interest. > 2 July 1954 has a full page advertisement on the back cover by Wilmot > Breeden with a beautiful engraving of an Austin-Healey 100 parked in > front of a cricket pitch. It is in black, green & yellow. I think I > have sent this to you before but I can scan it again if you want it. > > October 2, 1953 (The Autocar) contains 20-40 congratulatory Ads from > every supplier imaginable including Austin-Healey's own self > congratulatory Ad for world record smashing performance. "World's > fastest production car under 3000 cc. capacity". Many are full page > Ads. Lucas has a full page Ad on the back cover for their headlights, > but does not mention Austin-Healey. Since many, if not most or even > all, British car manufacturers used Lucas electronics they probably > did not want to offend any customers. > > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Patrick & Caroline Quinn > > Hello > Over the last year and a half I have included a series in the > Australian Austin-Healey called ?Who Made What!? and there have been > articles on what companies made various Austin-Healey components. > So far that?s included chassis, body panels, tyres, spark plugs, > brightwork and instruments. > Next I want to write about Lucas Industries, but as with those > companies covered previously I would like to include period press > advertisements, especially those including Austin-Healeys. > So if anyone would have copies of period Lucas Industries press ads > that can send me it would be greatly appreciated. > Many thanks > Patrick Quinn > Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: LucasPoster.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 774719 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jun 14 06:25:27 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 05:25:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distance Piece Needed Message-ID: <2fbfab25-80a7-4aa4-b346-bec3e8b36f8f@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Fri Jun 14 06:34:51 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 08:34:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distance Piece Needed In-Reply-To: <2fbfab25-80a7-4aa4-b346-bec3e8b36f8f@email.android.com> References: <2fbfab25-80a7-4aa4-b346-bec3e8b36f8f@email.android.com> Message-ID: Mike, I'm sure someone will have one. If not, I can make one on the lathe. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/14/19 8:25 AM, Mike MacLean wrote: > This past week was very satisfying finally putting the rear axle in my > BN2.? I thought I had all the hardware and parts to complete this, but > looking at the exploded parts diagram in the Moss web site I find one > thing missing that Moss lists as N/A.? The spacer or distance Piece that > sits between the two plates welded to the axle where the shock link > passes through.? For some reason it stayed on one side without the shock > link, but not the other.? Anyone have a junk rear axle with this little > tube?? I have no idea what Moss would have charged for this, but I'd be > willing to shoot five bucks your way.? I would consider just cutting it > from some steel tubing, but I am not sure I could make a nice square > parallel cut. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 09:38:23 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 08:38:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water Message-ID: Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Jun 14 10:02:14 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 18:02:14 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01e9029f-3f99-303d-7836-9d258abd341a@chello.nl> If the cooling system was recently filled up to the top of the radiator neck, this is quite normal. Air in the cooling system will expand and push out the coolant, also the coolant itself will expand a bit. Perhaps there was some local boiling after switching off which will also push out some coolant. In a more modern system this overflowed coolant will end up in the overflow tank, but when the system cools down the coolant will be sucked back into the radiator providing the hose from the radiator to the overflow tank ends up near the bottom and the radiator cap is absolutely airtight. So fit the overflow tank and there will be no more loss of coolant. If you have a thermoswitch controlled electric fan fitted run it straight from the battery so it will continue to work after switching off. However operate the manual override switch from the accessories terminal so the fan will not keep running if you accidentally did not switch off the fan manually. Kees Oudesluijs Op 14-6-2019 om 17:38 schreef i erbs: > Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran > great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the > overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember > if this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow > tank. Should I install it? > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 10:03:46 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 09:03:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It was filled to about .25 inch shy of the filler neck in anticipation of expansion... Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM David P wrote: > Ira, > > If the radiator is overfilled to start with it will dump coolant to allow > for normal heat expansion within... > On 6/14/2019 9:38 AM, i erbs wrote: > > Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. > Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I > hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or > not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com > > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jun 14 10:24:10 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 09:24:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My BJ8 always barfs out any excess coolant.? 2-3 inches below the bottom of the filler neck is what it likes; maybe a quart from full.? Don't think the extra quart makes a huge difference in cooling ability. Leave the level where it's at and take another drive; if nothing comes out you're at 'nominal.' Bob On 6/14/2019 9:03 AM, i erbs wrote: > It was filled to? about .25 inch shy of the filler neck in > anticipation of expansion... > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB MG > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM David P > wrote: > > Ira, > > If the radiator is overfilled to start with it will dump coolant > to allow for normal heat expansion within... > > On 6/14/2019 9:38 AM, i erbs wrote: >> Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran >> great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out >> the overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer >> remember if this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed >> overflow tank. Should I install it? >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ >> ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB MG >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> > -- > Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jun 14 10:37:38 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 12:37:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? inch of the bottom of the fill tube. I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate success. By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? Have a fun day. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: i erbs Sent: Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it??? Ira Erbs Portland,OR ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______ ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) ? ? ? ?? (_________________________) ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB ? A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 11:27:49 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 10:27:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think calling me normal is a bit of an over statement, but I get your point. I fixate of stuff. Will see how I do over the next few trips. I like it at least to cover the coils, so I have a sense of how low it might be. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:24 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > My BJ8 always barfs out any excess coolant. 2-3 inches below the bottom > of the filler neck is what it likes; maybe a quart from full. Don't think > the extra quart makes a huge difference in cooling ability. > > Leave the level where it's at and take another drive; if nothing comes out > you're at 'nominal.' > > Bob > On 6/14/2019 9:03 AM, i erbs wrote: > > It was filled to about .25 inch shy of the filler neck in anticipation of > expansion... > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 8:54 AM David P wrote: > >> Ira, >> >> If the radiator is overfilled to start with it will dump coolant to allow >> for normal heat expansion within... >> On 6/14/2019 9:38 AM, i erbs wrote: >> >> Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. >> Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I >> hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or >> not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com >> >> -- >> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ >> >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 11:28:41 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 10:28:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: I do live in Oregon, so collecting rain water is doable :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:37 AM Perry wrote: > AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? > inch of the bottom of the fill tube. > > I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate > success. > > By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? > > Have a fun day. > > P > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *i erbs > *Sent: *Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM > *To: *Ahealey help > *Subject: *[Healeys] 3 cups of water > > > > Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. > Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I > hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or > not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? > > Ira Erbs > > Portland,OR > > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 16:30:27 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 15:30:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Just drive 45 miles. Last 20 in stop and go crawl. Temp gauge went to 210, then back down to 190 when frewway speeds were achieved last 5 miles. No liquid from overflow on my garage floor. So I must have burped all the air out of the system. Shouk3d run cooler after I reinstall the air deflector. Will check fluid level after it cools down. Last day of work as a full time teacher. Staff git me a couple of Healey modles and a $100 moss motors gift certificate .Thanks all. Happy motoring. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 10:28 AM i erbs wrote: > I do live in Oregon, so collecting rain water is doable :) > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > BT7 engine and disk brakes > > > 1967 MGB [image: MG] > > A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti > Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words > > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:37 AM Perry wrote: > >> AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? >> inch of the bottom of the fill tube. >> >> I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate >> success. >> >> By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? >> >> Have a fun day. >> >> P >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> *From: *i erbs >> *Sent: *Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM >> *To: *Ahealey help >> *Subject: *[Healeys] 3 cups of water >> >> >> >> Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. >> Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I >> hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or >> not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? >> >> Ira Erbs >> >> Portland,OR >> >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> >> >> >> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >> >> >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 16:35:43 2019 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 18:35:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: What subject did you teach? > On Jun 14, 2019, at 6:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > > Just drive 45 miles. Last 20 in stop and go crawl. Temp gauge went to 210, then back down to 190 when frewway speeds were achieved last 5 miles. No liquid from overflow on my garage floor. So I must have burped all the air out of the system. Shouk3d run cooler after I reinstall the air deflector. Will check fluid level after it cools down. Last day of work as a full time teacher. Staff git me a couple of Healey modles and a $100 moss motors gift certificate > .Thanks all. Happy motoring. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > >> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 10:28 AM i erbs wrote: >> I do live in Oregon, so collecting rain water is doable :) >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> >>> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:37 AM Perry wrote: >>> AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? inch of the bottom of the fill tube. >>> >>> I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate success. >>> >>> By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? >>> >>> Have a fun day. >>> >>> P >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> >>> From: i erbs >>> Sent: Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM >>> To: Ahealey help >>> Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water >>> >>> >>> >>> Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? >>> >>> Ira Erbs >>> >>> Portland,OR >>> >>> _______ _______ >>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>> (_________________________) >>> >>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> 1967 MGB >>> >>> >>> >>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>> >>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>> >>> >>> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cbaustin at verizon.net Fri Jun 14 16:53:40 2019 From: cbaustin at verizon.net (Charley Braum) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 18:53:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <9e503ba6-8131-1e2e-428d-463695ca0f58@verizon.net> "What subject did you teach?" I'll guess Thermodynamics?? CB --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 16:58:07 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 15:58:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Information Technology. I taught HS kids how to build, troubleshoot, computer systems, install windows, Linux and Mac operating systems, intro to networking. Job search and job rediness skills Lat the college I teach end user support and help desk. I will still teach at a local community college part time Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 3:35 PM Lawrence Swift wrote: > What subject did you teach? > > On Jun 14, 2019, at 6:30 PM, i erbs wrote: > > Just drive 45 miles. Last 20 in stop and go crawl. Temp gauge went to 210, > then back down to 190 when frewway speeds were achieved last 5 miles. No > liquid from overflow on my garage floor. So I must have burped all the air > out of the system. Shouk3d run cooler after I reinstall the air deflector. > Will check fluid level after it cools down. Last day of work as a full time > teacher. Staff git me a couple of Healey modles and a $100 moss motors > gift certificate > .Thanks all. Happy motoring. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 10:28 AM i erbs wrote: > >> I do live in Oregon, so collecting rain water is doable :) >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> _______ _______ >> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >> (_________________________) >> BT7 engine and disk brakes >> >> >> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >> >> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >> >> >> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:37 AM Perry wrote: >> >>> AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? >>> inch of the bottom of the fill tube. >>> >>> I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate >>> success. >>> >>> By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? >>> >>> Have a fun day. >>> >>> P >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> >>> *From: *i erbs >>> *Sent: *Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM >>> *To: *Ahealey help >>> *Subject: *[Healeys] 3 cups of water >>> >>> >>> >>> Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. >>> Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I >>> hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or >>> not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? >>> >>> >>> Ira Erbs >>> >>> Portland,OR >>> >>> _______ _______ >>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>> (_________________________) >>> >>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >>> >>> >>> >>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>> >>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Fri Jun 14 21:20:02 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 20:20:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Ira, A good tip is to drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat. This allows any trapped air to work its way out of the cooling system and doesn't adversely affect the thermostats job. Once all of the air is gone then allow enough room in the radiator for expansion of the water as it heats unless you have a recovery tank. Harold _____ From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Friday, June 14, 2019 3:58 PM To: Team. net Cc: Ahealey help Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3 cups of water Information Technology. I taught HS kids how to build, troubleshoot, computer systems, install windows, Linux and Mac operating systems, intro to networking. Job search and job rediness skills Lat the college I teach end user support and help desk. I will still teach at a local community college part time Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 3:35 PM Lawrence Swift wrote: What subject did you teach? On Jun 14, 2019, at 6:30 PM, i erbs wrote: Just drive 45 miles. Last 20 in stop and go crawl. Temp gauge went to 210, then back down to 190 when frewway speeds were achieved last 5 miles. No liquid from overflow on my garage floor. So I must have burped all the air out of the system. Shouk3d run cooler after I reinstall the air deflector. Will check fluid level after it cools down. Last day of work as a full time teacher. Staff git me a couple of Healey modles and a $100 moss motors gift certificate .Thanks all. Happy motoring. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 10:28 AM i erbs wrote: I do live in Oregon, so collecting rain water is doable :) Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:37 AM Perry wrote: AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? inch of the bottom of the fill tube. I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate success. By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? Have a fun day. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: i erbs Sent: Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM To: Ahealey help Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should I install it? Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB MG A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 21:24:09 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 20:24:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3 cups of water In-Reply-To: References: <5d03cd57.1c69fb81.6b5d7.59fcSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Sleeved thermostat with hole already there. Later drives today rexulted in a dry arrival. So hopefully the air has left the system Thanks Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 8:20 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Ira, > > A good tip is to drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat. This allows any > trapped air to work its way out of the cooling system and doesn't adversely > affect the thermostats job. Once all of the air is gone then allow enough > room in the radiator for expansion of the water as it heats unless you have > a recovery tank. > > Harold > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i > erbs > *Sent:* Friday, June 14, 2019 3:58 PM > *To:* Team. net > *Cc:* Ahealey help > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 3 cups of water > > Information Technology. I taught HS kids how to build, troubleshoot, > computer systems, install windows, Linux and Mac operating systems, intro > to networking. Job search and job rediness skills > Lat the college I teach end user support and help desk. > I will still teach at a local community college part time > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 3:35 PM Lawrence Swift > wrote: > >> What subject did you teach? >> >> On Jun 14, 2019, at 6:30 PM, i erbs wrote: >> >> Just drive 45 miles. Last 20 in stop and go crawl. Temp gauge went to >> 210, then back down to 190 when frewway speeds were achieved last 5 miles. >> No liquid from overflow on my garage floor. So I must have burped all the >> air out of the system. Shouk3d run cooler after I reinstall the air >> deflector. Will check fluid level after it cools down. Last day of work as >> a full time teacher. Staff git me a couple of Healey modles and a $100 moss >> motors gift certificate >> .Thanks all. Happy motoring. >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland, OR >> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone >> >> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 10:28 AM i erbs wrote: >> >>> I do live in Oregon, so collecting rain water is doable :) >>> Ira Erbs >>> Portland,OR >>> _______ _______ >>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>> (_________________________) >>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>> >>> >>> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >>> >>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 9:37 AM Perry wrote: >>> >>>> AH Owners manual and repair manuals call for filling the radiator to ? >>>> inch of the bottom of the fill tube. >>>> >>>> I have always used 1 inch below over the last 54 years with moderate >>>> success. >>>> >>>> By the way the manuals say to use rain water whenever possible. ? >>>> >>>> Have a fun day. >>>> >>>> P >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Sent from Mail for >>>> Windows 10 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> *From: *i erbs >>>> *Sent: *Friday, June 14, 2019 11:39 AM >>>> *To: *Ahealey help >>>> *Subject: *[Healeys] 3 cups of water >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Drove my car about 25 miles to work today. never got to 190 * ran >>>> great. Parked the car and about three cups of coolant came out the >>>> overflow. Am I hyper focused or is this normal. I no longer remember if >>>> this is normal or not? I bought a really nice chromed overflow tank. Should >>>> I install it? >>>> >>>> Ira Erbs >>>> >>>> Portland,OR >>>> >>>> _______ _______ >>>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) >>>> (_________________________) >>>> >>>> BT7 engine and disk brakes >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> 1967 MGB [image: MG] >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti >>>> >>>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjmorrio at colby.edu Sat Jun 15 13:07:42 2019 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Tom Morrione) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 15:07:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tire tube valve stem and wheel rim issue? Message-ID: FWIW -- something to check that I hadn't thought needed checking. I had a slow leak in a new tire and found that the tube stem had been rubbed or cut through by the rim. This doesn't happen in normal use --right? Just wondering whether anyone else has had the edge of the hole on a new spoke wheel rim (from Moss) cut the valve stem on the tube? (I didn't install the tube and tire so maybe the installer pulled or wiggled it too hard?) I filed the hole so there's a bit of a chamfered edge to it now. Never had to do that with old ones I've had (back into the 60s). I saw (can't recall where) someone sells little push in sleeves for the rim holes. Thanks in advance, Tom 65 and 67 BJ8s PS -- Congrats Ira. I'm sure they miss you already! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 55healey at comcast.net Sat Jun 15 13:18:32 2019 From: 55healey at comcast.net (55healey at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 12:18:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tire tube valve stem and wheel rim issue? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There are valve stem bushings available. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NTH90125 Should solve the problem. Rob > On Jun 15, 2019, at 12:07 PM, Tom Morrione wrote: > > FWIW -- something to check that I hadn't thought needed checking. > > I had a slow leak in a new tire and found that the tube stem had been rubbed or cut through by the rim. This doesn't happen in normal use --right? > > Just wondering whether anyone else has had the edge of the hole on a new spoke wheel rim (from Moss) cut the valve stem on the tube? (I didn't install the tube and tire so maybe the installer pulled or wiggled it too hard?) > > I filed the hole so there's a bit of a chamfered edge to it now. Never had to do that with old ones I've had (back into the 60s). I saw (can't recall where) someone sells little push in sleeves for the rim holes. > > Thanks in advance, > Tom > 65 and 67 BJ8s > > PS -- Congrats Ira. I'm sure they miss you already! > From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sat Jun 15 13:26:12 2019 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 12:26:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tire tube valve stem and wheel rim issue? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believe that current issue tubes are designed for rims with a smaller diameter valve stem hole. That is why the plastic adapters are available. -Roland On Sat, 15 Jun 2019 15:07:42 -0400, you wrote: >FWIW -- something to check that I hadn't thought needed checking. > >I had a slow leak in a new tire and found that the tube stem had been >rubbed or cut through by the rim. This doesn't happen in normal use --right? > >Just wondering whether anyone else has had the edge of the hole on a new >spoke wheel rim (from Moss) cut the valve stem on the tube? (I didn't >install the tube and tire so maybe the installer pulled or wiggled it too >hard?) > >I filed the hole so there's a bit of a chamfered edge to it now. Never had >to do that with old ones I've had (back into the 60s). I saw (can't recall >where) someone sells little push in sleeves for the rim holes. > >Thanks in advance, >Tom >65 and 67 BJ8s > >PS -- Congrats Ira. I'm sure they miss you already! From tjmorrio at colby.edu Sat Jun 15 13:28:04 2019 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Tom Morrione) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 15:28:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tire tube valve stem and wheel rim issue? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Rob. Valve stem bushings -- I should have thought there would be such an item. Will check them out re hole diameter, etc. Tom On Sat, Jun 15, 2019 at 3:18 PM 55healey at comcast.net <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > There are valve stem bushings available. > > https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NTH90125 > > Should solve the problem. > > Rob > > > On Jun 15, 2019, at 12:07 PM, Tom Morrione wrote: > > > > FWIW -- something to check that I hadn't thought needed checking. > > > > I had a slow leak in a new tire and found that the tube stem had been > rubbed or cut through by the rim. This doesn't happen in normal use --right? > > > > Just wondering whether anyone else has had the edge of the hole on a new > spoke wheel rim (from Moss) cut the valve stem on the tube? (I didn't > install the tube and tire so maybe the installer pulled or wiggled it too > hard?) > > > > I filed the hole so there's a bit of a chamfered edge to it now. Never > had to do that with old ones I've had (back into the 60s). I saw (can't > recall where) someone sells little push in sleeves for the rim holes. > > > > Thanks in advance, > > Tom > > 65 and 67 BJ8s > > > > PS -- Congrats Ira. I'm sure they miss you already! > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sat Jun 15 14:57:54 2019 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 16:57:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? Thanks, Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Jun 15 16:22:09 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 00:22:09 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <4fd41e11-8cf8-8f8d-b2b6-a5c67209d817@chello.nl> These are very easy to make up with thin carton or gasket material. Cut out the ring, inside as accurate as possible, outside plenty large enough. Press out two opposing screw holes using a ball bearing or similar. Insert two screw though the gasket to keep it in position and horn half and press out the remaining holes. Soak the gasket in oil for an hour? or apply sealer to both surfaces of the gasket and of the flanges of the horn an fit the halves together the way they were fitted before using screws and nuts or (pop)rivets. Trim the excess gasket material. Kees oudesluijs Op 15-6-2019 om 22:57 schreef Charles Schott: > Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 > horns? Thanks, > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sat Jun 15 18:22:49 2019 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 20:22:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: <4fd41e11-8cf8-8f8d-b2b6-a5c67209d817@chello.nl> References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <4fd41e11-8cf8-8f8d-b2b6-a5c67209d817@chello.nl> Message-ID: <319035043.7321924.1560644569785.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Kees, Thanks for the info. Sounds simple enough. Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kees Oudesluijs" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 15, 2019 5:22:09 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn Parts These are very easy to make up with thin carton or gasket material. Cut out the ring, inside as accurate as possible, outside plenty large enough. Press out two opposing screw holes using a ball bearing or similar. Insert two screw though the gasket to keep it in position and horn half and press out the remaining holes. Soak the gasket in oil for an hour or apply sealer to both surfaces of the gasket and of the flanges of the horn an fit the halves together the way they were fitted before using screws and nuts or (pop)rivets. Trim the excess gasket material. Kees oudesluijs Op 15-6-2019 om 22:57 schreef Charles Schott: Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? Thanks, Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message -----
_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bgdrab at redzone.ca Sat Jun 15 09:14:34 2019 From: bgdrab at redzone.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 15:14:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid Message-ID: Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour and everything ran well except for one thing. 4 or 5 times, when I used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked well. As I don't want to be caught without a clutch at a later date I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received a replacement and am preparing to install it. On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a warning - "Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty". I have used silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced any problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. My question is - does anyone have any idea what it is about. For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they share a common reservoir. I'd appreciate any comments on the warning. Brian Drab BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jun 16 07:07:22 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 15:07:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The main problem with Silicon fluid/DOT 5 is that it hardly absorbs water, so when water enters the sytem (due to condensation) it will sink to the lowest point and causes corrosion and havoc. On it own not a big problem if you renew the fluid every 2 years or so, as you also would do with DOT 4, but most people using DOT 5 never replace the fluid. Some manufacturers do not recommend DOT 5 hence the warning ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. Perhaps the grease they use in the factory at assembly is not compatible with DOT 5. Perhaps some rubber items are not suitable for DOT 5, however my understandig is theat DOT is OK with new rubber parts as long as you first clean them using alcohol/meth. spirits and dry them thoroughly. Once the rubber parts have been exposed to DOT 4 you should not use them with DOT 5 or vise versa. Some people do at their own peril. Kees Oudesluijs Op 15-6-2019 om 17:14 schreef Brian Drab: > > Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour > and everything ran well except for one thing. ?4 or 5 times, when I > used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the > time it worked well. As I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at > a later date I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received > a replacement and am preparing to install it. > > On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a > warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have used > silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced any > problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of warning > before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. > > My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. > > For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be > changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they > share a common reservoir. > > I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. > > Brian Drab > > BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Jun 16 07:31:27 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 09:31:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Apparently, silicone can cause swelling of the seals in Girling and Lockheed systems: http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html I have a Howe hydraulic clutch in my Nasty Boy, and that also came with the advisory not to use silicone fluid. Rick Neville On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 8:24 AM Brian Drab wrote: > Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour and > everything ran well except for one thing. 4 or 5 times, when I used the > clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked > well. As I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at a later date I am > changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received a replacement and am > preparing to install it. > > On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a warning ? > ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have used silicon fluid > for well over 10 tears and never experienced any problems with it and have > never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have never heard of > any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. > > My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. > > For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be changing > out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they share a common > reservoir. > > I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. > > Brian Drab > > BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Sun Jun 16 08:03:46 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 14:03:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid References: <1519004710.1867181.1560693826717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1519004710.1867181.1560693826717@mail.yahoo.com> What brand master cylinder did you get? Not what supplier did you buy it from. I would suggest contacting the manufacturer & ask what their reason is for the warning message.?I read somewhere that all seals are designed/intended to swell when in contact with any brake fluid. A few years ago I put a new seal in DOT4 & a new seal in DOT 5 fluid & after a couple of months, I could not measure any difference in their sizes.? By "bypassed" do you mean the peddle went to the floor? It that is the case & there are no leaks evident, It sounds like your "check valve" in the master cylinder is intermittingly malfunctioning. Maybe there is debris in the master cylinder or some other cause. You might try simply replacing the seals including the check valve assembly.?Gary Hodson? -----Original Message----- From: Brian Drab To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2019 7:23 am Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid <!-- #yiv0877942103 _filtered #yiv0877942103 {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv0877942103 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv0877942103 #yiv0877942103 p.yiv0877942103MsoNormal, #yiv0877942103 li.yiv0877942103MsoNormal, #yiv0877942103 div.yiv0877942103MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv0877942103 a:link, #yiv0877942103 span.yiv0877942103MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0877942103 a:visited, #yiv0877942103 span.yiv0877942103MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0877942103 span.yiv0877942103EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv0877942103 .yiv0877942103MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv0877942103 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;} #yiv0877942103 div.yiv0877942103WordSection1 {} -->Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour and everything ran well except for one thing. ?4 or 5 times, when I used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked well. As I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at a later date I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received a replacement and am preparing to install it. On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have used silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced any problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they share a common reservoir. I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. Brian Drab BJ8 ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From lawrence.swift at gmail.com Sun Jun 16 08:44:26 2019 From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 10:44:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have used silicone in all my british cars for 25 years with no problems > On Jun 16, 2019, at 09:31, HealeyRick wrote: > > Apparently, silicone can cause swelling of the seals in Girling and Lockheed systems: http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html I have a Howe hydraulic clutch in my Nasty Boy, and that also came with the advisory not to use silicone fluid. > > Rick Neville > >> On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 8:24 AM Brian Drab wrote: >> Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour and everything ran well except for one thing. 4 or 5 times, when I used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked well. As I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at a later date I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received a replacement and am preparing to install it. >> >> On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have used silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced any problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. >> >> My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. >> >> For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they share a common reservoir. >> >> I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. >> >> Brian Drab >> >> BJ8 >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jun 16 09:34:15 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 08:34:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6eb6c4ee-d7a4-672a-cc18-6364bf3e03d2@comcast.net> I've used silicone BF in my BJ8 for close to 30 years (and when I replaced the brake MC, 15-20 years and 80-100K miles ago, I disregarded the same warning).? As somebody mentioned, your problem is symptomatic of the 'check valve'--aka 'foot valve--malfunctioning or damaged.? I had similar problem with my brakes on a long road trip; had to pump the pedal a couple times on every application (for a couple thousand miles). We put the highly-touted Castrol BF in our 100M after a thorough restoration--with all-new brake system--and the fluid jelled when that car sat for a couple years. Side note: Most BFs are calling themselves 'synthetic' these days.? Are they a new formulation, or just jumping on the bandwagon as, AFAIK, BF has always been synthetic (the glycols used don't occur in nature)? Bob On 6/16/2019 7:44 AM, Team.net wrote: > I have used silicone in all my british cars for 25 years with no problems > > On Jun 16, 2019, at 09:31, HealeyRick > wrote: > >> Apparently, silicone can cause swelling of the seals in Girling and >> Lockheed systems: http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html I have a Howe >> hydraulic clutch in my Nasty Boy, and that also came with the >> advisory not to use silicone fluid. >> >> Rick Neville >> >> On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 8:24 AM Brian Drab > > wrote: >> >> Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great >> tour and everything ran well except for one thing. ?4 or 5 times, >> when I used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The >> rest of the time it worked well. As I don?t want to be caught >> without a clutch at a later date I am changing the clutch master >> cylinder. I have received a replacement and am preparing to >> install it. >> >> On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a >> warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have >> used silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced >> any problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of >> warning before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities >> of Silicon fluid. >> >> My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. >> >> For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be >> changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as >> they share a common reservoir. >> >> I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. >> >> Brian Drab >> >> BJ8 >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun Jun 16 10:15:57 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 17:15:57 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: <6eb6c4ee-d7a4-672a-cc18-6364bf3e03d2@comcast.net> References: <6eb6c4ee-d7a4-672a-cc18-6364bf3e03d2@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000a01d5245e$c94907f0$5bdb17d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> When this came round last time, I did a little digging and came up with this, which I believe I may have inflicted on you before. It was written for our local (UK) club magazine but I?m sure that most of it, if not all, is universal. It?s more about what mixes with which rather than which rots what. If you get my meaning?. 1. All brake fluid is ?synthetic??it?s not a ?natural? product. 2. Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol ether based. 3. DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol. 4. DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can?t be mixed with anything! 5. DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5. 6. DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 16 June 2019 16:34 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid I've used silicone BF in my BJ8 for close to 30 years (and when I replaced the brake MC, 15-20 years and 80-100K miles ago, I disregarded the same warning). As somebody mentioned, your problem is symptomatic of the 'check valve'--aka 'foot valve--malfunctioning or damaged. I had similar problem with my brakes on a long road trip; had to pump the pedal a couple times on every application (for a couple thousand miles). We put the highly-touted Castrol BF in our 100M after a thorough restoration--with all-new brake system--and the fluid jelled when that car sat for a couple years. Side note: Most BFs are calling themselves 'synthetic' these days. Are they a new formulation, or just jumping on the bandwagon as, AFAIK, BF has always been synthetic (the glycols used don't occur in nature)? Bob On 6/16/2019 7:44 AM, Team.net wrote: I have used silicone in all my british cars for 25 years with no problems On Jun 16, 2019, at 09:31, HealeyRick > wrote: Apparently, silicone can cause swelling of the seals in Girling and Lockheed systems: http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html I have a Howe hydraulic clutch in my Nasty Boy, and that also came with the advisory not to use silicone fluid. Rick Neville On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 8:24 AM Brian Drab > wrote: Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour and everything ran well except for one thing. 4 or 5 times, when I used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked well. As I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at a later date I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received a replacement and am preparing to install it. On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have used silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced any problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they share a common reservoir. I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. Brian Drab BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Jun 16 10:50:11 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 18:50:11 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: <000a01d5245e$c94907f0$5bdb17d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <6eb6c4ee-d7a4-672a-cc18-6364bf3e03d2@comcast.net> <000a01d5245e$c94907f0$5bdb17d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <98983695-c520-93c2-c3a3-d08084e457ae@chello.nl> Entirely correct. DOT4 will be perfect for most users. DOT5 for the silicone boys. DOT5.1 is similar to DOT4 but is upgraded to more or less the same properties (e.g. boiling point) as DOT5 but absorbs water and is compatible in practically all classic car braking components. It is better suited to extreme driving compared to DOT4. It may also have a harder pedal as it is non-compressable. DOT5 is slightly compressible and can feel a bit spongy when you are not used to it. Most won?t notice anything. ALL brake fluids should be replaced on a regular bases, usually every 2 years, in very damp environments more often. Kees Oudesluijs Op 16-6-2019 om 18:15 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: > > When this came round last time, I did a little digging and came up > with this, which I believe I may have inflicted on you before. It was > written for our local (UK) club magazine but I?m sure that most of it, > if not all, is universal. It?s more about what mixes with which rather > than which rots what. If you get my meaning?. > > 1. All brake fluid is ?synthetic??it?s not a ?natural? product. > 2. Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene > _glycol_ ether based. > 3. DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol. > 4. DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can?t be > mixed with anything! > 5. DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5. > 6. DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bob Spidell > *Sent:* 16 June 2019 16:34 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid > > I've used silicone BF in my BJ8 for close to 30 years (and when I > replaced the brake MC, 15-20 years and 80-100K miles ago, I > disregarded the same warning).? As somebody mentioned, your problem is > symptomatic of the 'check valve'--aka 'foot valve--malfunctioning or > damaged.? I had similar problem with my brakes on a long road trip; > had to pump the pedal a couple times on every application (for a > couple thousand miles). > > We put the highly-touted Castrol BF in our 100M after a thorough > restoration--with all-new brake system--and the fluid jelled when that > car sat for a couple years. > > Side note: Most BFs are calling themselves 'synthetic' these days.? > Are they a new formulation, or just jumping on the bandwagon as, > AFAIK, BF has always been synthetic (the glycols used don't occur in > nature)? > > Bob > > On 6/16/2019 7:44 AM, Team.net wrote: > > I have used silicone in all my british cars for 25 years with no > problems > > > On Jun 16, 2019, at 09:31, HealeyRick > wrote: > > Apparently, silicone can cause swelling of the seals in > Girling and Lockheed systems: http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html > I have a Howe hydraulic clutch in my Nasty Boy, and that also > came with the advisory not to use silicone fluid. > > Rick Neville > > On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 8:24 AM Brian Drab > wrote: > > Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a > great tour and everything ran well except for one thing. > ?4 or 5 times, when I used the clutch, the clutch master > cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked well. As > I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at a later date > I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received > a replacement and am preparing to install it. > > On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure > under a warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void > warranty?. I have used silicon fluid for well over 10 > tears and never experienced any problems with it and have > never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have > never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. > > My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. > > For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I > would be changing out the clutch as well as the brake > system seeing as they share a common reservoir. > > I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. > > Brian Drab > > BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cynicbass at gmail.com Sun Jun 16 11:40:32 2019 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 17:40:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: > On Jun 15, 2019, at 20:57, Charles Schott wrote: > > Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? Thanks, > > Regards, > > Charlie > > you could try this and see if they the correct gaskets you need. > LUCAS-ALTETTE-REPAIR-PARTS-KIT > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jun 16 13:05:48 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 19:05:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid In-Reply-To: <98983695-c520-93c2-c3a3-d08084e457ae@chello.nl> References: <6eb6c4ee-d7a4-672a-cc18-6364bf3e03d2@comcast.net> <000a01d5245e$c94907f0$5bdb17d0$@alexarevel.plus.com> <98983695-c520-93c2-c3a3-d08084e457ae@chello.nl> Message-ID: <699176706.2246313.1560711948287@mail.yahoo.com> I have used Castrol LMA in all my British cars for over 40 years.? This year I rebuilt the complete brake system on my Bugeye I went to the local supplier of Brit car parts to buy another bottle of? Castrol LMA BF.? Even though she had it on the shelf the owner of the store told me to buy the Lockheed brand because Castrol BF is no longer made by the same people.? It is not the same stuff and I would be far better off with Lockheed Dot 4 BF.? She offered no explanation further other than the new Castrol LMA was crap and the Lockheed stuff can be trusted.? I tend to listen to someone that sells the stuff every day.? My BN2 is a completely new system with an original master that has been re-sleeved.?? I guess I could start out with silicone fluid, but all my experience is with Dot 3/4.? I have managed to use it for 40 years and not removed too much paint in the process. Mike MacLean On Sunday, June 16, 2019, 9:50:43 AM PDT, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: Entirely correct. DOT4 will be perfect for most users. DOT5 for the silicone boys. DOT5.1 is similar to DOT4 but is upgraded to more or less the same properties (e.g. boiling point) as DOT5 but absorbs water and is compatible in practically all classic car braking components. It is better suited to extreme driving compared to DOT4. It may also have a harder pedal as it is non-compressable. DOT5 is slightly compressible and can feel a bit spongy when you are not used to it. Most won?t notice anything. ALL brake fluids should be replaced on a regular bases, usually every 2 years, in very damp environments more often. Kees Oudesluijs Op 16-6-2019 om 18:15 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com: #yiv8707325154 #yiv8707325154 -- _filtered #yiv8707325154 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv8707325154 #yiv8707325154 p.yiv8707325154MsoNormal, #yiv8707325154 li.yiv8707325154MsoNormal, #yiv8707325154 div.yiv8707325154MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;}#yiv8707325154 a:link, #yiv8707325154 span.yiv8707325154MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8707325154 a:visited, #yiv8707325154 span.yiv8707325154MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8707325154 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;color:black;}#yiv8707325154 p.yiv8707325154MsoNoSpacing, #yiv8707325154 li.yiv8707325154MsoNoSpacing, #yiv8707325154 div.yiv8707325154MsoNoSpacing {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv8707325154 p.yiv8707325154msonormal0, #yiv8707325154 li.yiv8707325154msonormal0, #yiv8707325154 div.yiv8707325154msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;}#yiv8707325154 span.yiv8707325154HTMLPreformattedChar {font-family:Consolas;color:black;}#yiv8707325154 span.yiv8707325154EmailStyle21 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv8707325154 .yiv8707325154MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv8707325154 div.yiv8707325154WordSection1 {}#yiv8707325154 _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {} _filtered #yiv8707325154 {}#yiv8707325154 ol {margin-bottom:0cm;}#yiv8707325154 ul {margin-bottom:0cm;}#yiv8707325154 When this came round last time, I did a little digging and came up with this, which I believe I may have inflicted on you before. It was written for our local (UK) club magazine but I?m sure that most of it, if not all, is universal. It?s more about what mixes with which rather than which rots what. If you get my meaning?. - All brake fluid is ?synthetic??it?s not a ?natural? product. - Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol ether based. - DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol. - DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can?t be mixed with anything! - DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5. - DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based. Simon ? From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 16 June 2019 16:34 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] silicone brake fluid ? I've used silicone BF in my BJ8 for close to 30 years (and when I replaced the brake MC, 15-20 years and 80-100K miles ago, I disregarded the same warning).? As somebody mentioned, your problem is symptomatic of the 'check valve'--aka 'foot valve--malfunctioning or damaged.? I had similar problem with my brakes on a long road trip; had to pump the pedal a couple times on every application (for a couple thousand miles). We put the highly-touted Castrol BF in our 100M after a thorough restoration--with all-new brake system--and the fluid jelled when that car sat for a couple years. Side note: Most BFs are calling themselves 'synthetic' these days.? Are they a new formulation, or just jumping on the bandwagon as, AFAIK, BF has always been synthetic (the glycols used don't occur in nature)? Bob ? On 6/16/2019 7:44 AM, Team.net wrote: I have used silicone in all my british cars for 25 years with no problems On Jun 16, 2019, at 09:31, HealeyRick wrote: Apparently, silicone can cause swelling of the seals in Girling and Lockheed systems:?? http://www.gomog.com/brakes.html? I have a Howe hydraulic clutch in my Nasty Boy, and that also came with the advisory not to use silicone fluid.?? ? Rick Neville ? On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 8:24 AM Brian Drab wrote: Last week I completed a driving tour in our BJ8. It was a great tour and everything ran well except for one thing. ?4 or 5 times, when I used the clutch, the clutch master cylinder bypassed. The rest of the time it worked well. As I don?t want to be caught without a clutch at a later date I am changing the clutch master cylinder. I have received a replacement and am preparing to install it. On the box is a quick summary of the bleeding procedure under a warning ? ?Using Silicon Brake fluid will void warranty?. I have used silicon fluid for well over 10 tears and never experienced any problems with it and have never seen or heard of this type of warning before. I have never heard of any destructive qualities of Silicon fluid. My question is ? does anyone have any idea what it is about. For me to change to Dot4 fluid is quite a big deal as I would be changing out the clutch as well as the brake system seeing as they share a common reservoir. I?d appreciate any comments on the warning. Brian Drab BJ8 ? ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sun Jun 16 16:02:26 2019 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 18:02:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1709520298.8353085.1560722546867.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Richard, Thanks for the link. It looks like I'll have to identify my horns and then talk to the guy to make sure I get the correct parts. Does anyone know if the complete horn was black or was there some other combination? Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Korn" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Tom Morrione" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 12:40:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn Parts On Jun 15, 2019, at 20:57, Charles Schott < schottc at knology.net > wrote: Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? Thanks, Regards, Charlie ----- Original Message -----
you could try this and see if they the correct gaskets you need.
LUCAS-ALTETTE-REPAIR-PARTS-KIT
_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com
-------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Sun Jun 16 16:19:46 2019 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 15:19:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources Message-ID: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to re-activate my 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to bed. Obviously it will first need work - including brakes, fuel pump, ignition and carbs as a minimum. I?m also determined to get the O/D working, which I believe is possible without a rebuild. However after all this time I have forgotten much of the technical stuff I used to know. Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing collection of technical articles covering all of these areas and more. I used to have this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas please? PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a sailboat. Now sailed away into history. _____________________ Neil McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Jun 16 16:26:34 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 18:26:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: <1709520298.8353085.1560722546867.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1709520298.8353085.1560722546867.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Charlie The 100?s had two Lucas HF1748 horns, one high , one low tone. Painted ?light silvery beige metallic color. Bolts were body color.? Reference Anderson Moment Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Charles Schott Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 6:03 PM To: Richard Korn Cc: Tom Morrione; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn Parts Richard, Thanks for the link. It looks like I'll have to identify my horns and then talk to the guy to make sure I get the correct parts. Does anyone know if the complete horn was black or was there some other combination? Regards, Charlie From: "Richard Korn" To: "Charles Schott" Cc: "Tom Morrione" , healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2019 12:40:32 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn Parts On Jun 15, 2019, at 20:57, Charles Schott wrote: Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? Thanks, Regards, Charlie you could try this and see if they the correct gaskets you need. LUCAS-ALTETTE-REPAIR-PARTS-KIT _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 54EE28A298CE4CDCBB6741FDB840A662.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 3B55E70CC4A84C648FE0326ADC53C623.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jun 16 17:34:52 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 19:34:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: <20190616222649.F0177A0BC7@autox.team.net> References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1709520298.8353085.1560722546867.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <20190616222649.F0177A0BC7@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <1e8dcba4-702a-ca93-c989-19b0d112071a@earthlink.net> The diaphragm of the hi-tone horn is painted black. I understand that a Honda(?) color, Seattle Silver, is a good match. Dupli-Color had it in 5 oz spray cans. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/16/19 6:26 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote: > Charlie > > The 100?s had two Lucas HF1748 horns, one high , one low tone.? Painted > ?light silvery beige metallic color. Bolts were body color.? Reference > Anderson Moment > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Charles Schott > *Sent: *Sunday, June 16, 2019 6:03 PM > *To: *Richard Korn > *Cc: *Tom Morrione ; healeys at autox.team.net > > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Horn Parts > > Richard, > > Thanks for the link. It looks like I'll have to identify my horns and > then talk to the guy to make sure I get the correct parts. Does anyone > know if the complete horn was black or was there some other combination? > > Regards, > > Charlie > > *From: *"Richard Korn" > *To: *"Charles Schott" > *Cc: *"Tom Morrione" , healeys at autox.team.net > *Sent: *Sunday, June 16, 2019 12:40:32 PM > *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Horn Parts > > On Jun 15, 2019, at 20:57, Charles Schott > wrote: > > Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 > horns? Thanks, > > Regards, > > Charlie > > you could try this and see if they the correct gaskets you need. > > LUCAS-ALTETTE-REPAIR-PARTS-KIT > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Jun 16 17:36:20 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 19:36:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <5e66a39b-b1c6-2b60-65f0-93acc0251efb@earthlink.net> Neil, John Sim's 100-6 site for one. http://www.healey6.com Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/16/19 6:19 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: > After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to re-activate my 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to bed. Obviously it will first need work - including brakes, fuel pump, ignition and carbs as a minimum. I?m also determined to get the O/D working, which I believe is possible without a rebuild. However after all this time I have forgotten much of the technical stuff I used to know. > > Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing collection of technical articles covering all of these areas and more. I used to have this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas please? > > PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a sailboat. Now sailed away into history. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Jun 16 17:54:05 2019 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 16:54:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: <5e66a39b-b1c6-2b60-65f0-93acc0251efb@earthlink.net> References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> <5e66a39b-b1c6-2b60-65f0-93acc0251efb@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1866fd92-f0ae-0247-8062-fb6040b091b4@comcast.net> I second that recommendation.? Great site. Mike On 6/16/2019 4:36 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Neil, > > John Sim's 100-6 site for one. http://www.healey6.com > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 6/16/19 6:19 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to >> re-activate my 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to bed. >> Obviously it will first need work - including brakes, fuel pump, >> ignition and carbs as a minimum. I?m also determined to get the O/D >> working, which I believe is possible without a rebuild. However after >> all this time I have forgotten much of the technical stuff I used to >> know. >> >> Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing >> collection of technical articles covering all of these areas and >> more. I used to have this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas >> please? >> >> PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a sailboat. >> Now sailed away into history. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jun 16 19:16:15 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 18:16:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: <5e66a39b-b1c6-2b60-65f0-93acc0251efb@earthlink.net> References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> <5e66a39b-b1c6-2b60-65f0-93acc0251efb@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <0dcb904d-21e5-0046-29c3-a3c367001f8b@comcast.net> This site has good stuff, too: https://www.mgaguru.com/ On 6/16/2019 4:36 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Neil, > > John Sim's 100-6 site for one. http://www.healey6.com > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 6/16/19 6:19 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to >> re-activate my 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to bed. >> Obviously it will first need work - including brakes, fuel pump, >> ignition and carbs as a minimum. I?m also determined to get the O/D >> working, which I believe is possible without a rebuild. However after >> all this time I have forgotten much of the technical stuff I used to >> know. >> >> Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing >> collection of technical articles covering all of these areas and >> more. I used to have this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas >> please? >> >> PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a sailboat. >> Now sailed away into history. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> > From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Sun Jun 16 20:25:12 2019 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 22:25:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: <0dcb904d-21e5-0046-29c3-a3c367001f8b@comcast.net> References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> <5e66a39b-b1c6-2b60-65f0-93acc0251efb@earthlink.net> <0dcb904d-21e5-0046-29c3-a3c367001f8b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005601d524b3$e4f7ab00$aee70100$@sympatico.ca> Don't forget the factory workshop manual - it is pretty good too! Also, I ALWAYS read the relevant section of the Originality Guide for Restorations (the "Concours Guidelines") when I do a project/repair. They are amazing and nearly always provide understanding as to how things go together. Don't let the title mislead you, they are far more useful than just preparing for concours. While I am at it - kudos those who put the Guidelines together and keep them updated - phenomenal job. Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: June-16-19 9:16 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources This site has good stuff, too: https://www.mgaguru.com/ On 6/16/2019 4:36 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Neil, > > John Sim's 100-6 site for one. http://www.healey6.com > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 6/16/19 6:19 PM, Neil McDonald wrote: >> After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to >> re-activate my 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to bed. >> Obviously it will first need work - including brakes, fuel pump, >> ignition and carbs as a minimum. I?m also determined to get the O/D >> working, which I believe is possible without a rebuild. However after >> all this time I have forgotten much of the technical stuff I used to >> know. >> >> Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing >> collection of technical articles covering all of these areas and >> more. I used to have this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas >> please? >> >> PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a sailboat. >> Now sailed away into history. >> _____________________ >> Neil McDonald >> > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From healeyrik at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 07:23:55 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 09:23:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> Message-ID: A boat Healey is a hole in the water pavement into which you throw money. Rick Neville On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 6:20 PM Neil McDonald wrote: > After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to re-activate my > 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to bed. Obviously it will > first need work - including brakes, fuel pump, ignition and carbs as a > minimum. I?m also determined to get the O/D working, which I believe is > possible without a rebuild. However after all this time I have forgotten > much of the technical stuff I used to know. > > Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing collection of > technical articles covering all of these areas and more. I used to have > this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas please? > > PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a sailboat. Now > sailed away into history. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Jun 17 08:06:41 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:06:41 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> Message-ID: But when you die your kids will love the investment. Kees Oudesluijs Op 17-6-2019 om 15:23 schreef HealeyRick: > A boat?Healey is a hole in the water pavement into which you throw money. > > Rick Neville > > On Sun, Jun 16, 2019 at 6:20 PM Neil McDonald > wrote: > > After over ten years under a tarp in my garage I?m about to > re-activate my 100-6....... it was a runner when it was put to > bed. Obviously it will first need work - including brakes, fuel > pump, ignition and carbs as a minimum. I?m also determined to get > the O/D working, which I believe is possible without a rebuild. > However after all this time I have forgotten much of the technical > stuff I used to know. > > Somewhere on the Internet there is a website with an amazing > collection of technical articles covering all of these areas and > more. I used to have this site bookmarked but no longer. Any ideas > please? > > PS In case anyone asks why the ten year+ gap, its called a > sailboat. Now sailed away into history. > _____________________ > Neil McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Jun 17 10:13:10 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 17:13:10 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000501d52527$9048a590$b0d9f0b0$@alexarevel.plus.com> One of my daughters, when they were younger than they are today, asked me, ?Daddy, when you?re dead can I have your car?? I replied, ?No. I?m going to be buried in it.? Wife, ? Yeah. Six inches deep for 5 minutes. Then we dig it up!? True. Except that I won?t actually be buried in it?. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: 17 June 2019 15:07 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources But when you die your kids will love the investment. Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Mon Jun 17 10:39:44 2019 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (ROBERT BROWN) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 11:39:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: <1560788859470.790194788@boxbe> References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> <1560788859470.790194788@boxbe> Message-ID: Simon, My 8 year old son said the same to me 30 years ago. ?Dad,when you die can I have this car? 62 BT7 !! Bob Sent from my iPhone > Jun 17, 2019, at 11:13 AM, wrote: > > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com is not on your Guest List | Approve sender | Approve domain > One of my daughters, when they were younger than they are today, asked me, ?Daddy, when you?re dead can I have your car?? > I replied, ?No. I?m going to be buried in it.? > Wife, ? Yeah. Six inches deep for 5 minutes. Then we dig it up!? > True. Except that I won?t actually be buried in it?. > Simon > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs > Sent: 17 June 2019 15:07 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources > > But when you die your kids will love the investment. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Jun 17 11:25:28 2019 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 17:25:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD Message-ID: Anyone from Northern California going to Conclave in Deadwood? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 11:51:52 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 10:51:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Six from Portland area in a group, a few others going on their own. We are Leaving Sept 1st. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 10:26 AM Richard Kahn wrote: > Anyone from Northern California going to Conclave in Deadwood? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 11:53:10 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 10:53:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources In-Reply-To: References: <2F265F1C-433B-4755-AA9A-FCA1A247A27D@gmail.com> <1560788859470.790194788@boxbe> Message-ID: My kids told me if I don't leave the Healey and MG to them, they will dig me up. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 9:40 AM ROBERT BROWN via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Simon, > My 8 year old son said the same to me 30 years ago. > ?Dad,when you die can I have this car? 62 BT7 !! > Bob > > Sent from my iPhone > > > Jun 17, 2019, at 11:13 AM, < > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote: > > [image: Boxbe] > simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com is not on your Guest List > > | Approve sender > > | Approve domain > > > One of my daughters, when they were younger than they are today, asked me, > ?Daddy, when you?re dead can I have your car?? > > I replied, ?No. I?m going to be buried in it.? > > Wife, ? Yeah. Six inches deep for 5 minutes. Then we dig it up!? > > True. Except that I won?t actually be buried in it?. > > Simon > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Kees > Oudesluijs > *Sent:* 17 June 2019 15:07 > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] A/H Technical Resources > > > > But when you die your kids will love the investment. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blkbt7 at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 12:18:44 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 11:18:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> Irene, Nick K and company have a group of 3-4 cars going with stops in Sep. 1 Lovelock NV Lovelock Inn 55 Cornell Ave. 866-599-6674 Sep 2 Wendover UT Best Western Plus Wendover Inn 685 E Wendover Blvd. 435-665-2215 Sep 3 Rock Springs WY Best Western 1630 Elk St 307-367-6623 Sep 4 Buffalo WY Holiday Inn Express 106 E Hwy 16 307-684-9900 Sep 5 Deadwood!!! Myself, Marc L, Mike S, and Steve Cloyse will leave on Wednesday via Hwy 50 Austin Nevada, Green River Wy, Deadwood SD. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhall.org From: Richard Kahn Sent: Monday, June 17, 2019 10:25 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD Anyone from Northern California going to Conclave in Deadwood? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Mon Jun 17 13:01:42 2019 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 19:01:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Plans to go to Conclave in Deadwood from Oregon References: <459773425.2043663.1560798102677.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <459773425.2043663.1560798102677@mail.yahoo.com> I'm signed up to go to Conclave, now living in Ashland, Oregon. Might even drive my Healey BN7 since it could be the last opportunity for me for a major roadtrip in this lifetime. What route and dates is the Portland Group planning, coming and going? There are two major interstate possibilities and some really incredible secondary routes between Oregon and the Dakotas. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jun 16 16:42:34 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 18:42:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: Be very careful when dealing with the supplier suggested. M On Sun, Jun 16, 2019, 1:40 PM Richard Korn, wrote: > > On Jun 15, 2019, at 20:57, Charles Schott wrote: > > Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? > Thanks, > > Regards, > > Charlie > > ------------------------------ > >> you could try this and see if they the correct gaskets you need. >> >> LUCAS-ALTETTE-REPAIR-PARTS-KIT > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cynicbass at gmail.com Sun Jun 16 17:18:11 2019 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn) Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2019 23:18:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Horn Parts In-Reply-To: References: <966616248.7122423.1560632274525.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: to clarify, I found this website when researching Lucas horns but have never personally dealt with them. Richard > On Jun 16, 2019, at 22:42, Michael Salter wrote: > > Be very careful when dealing with the supplier suggested. > > M > > On Sun, Jun 16, 2019, 1:40 PM Richard Korn, > wrote: > >> On Jun 15, 2019, at 20:57, Charles Schott > wrote: >> >> Does anyone know where I can get parts (gaskets) for rebuilding 100 horns? Thanks, >> >> Regards, >> >> Charlie >> >> you could try this and see if they the correct gaskets you need. >> > LUCAS-ALTETTE-REPAIR-PARTS-KIT >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jun 17 14:21:39 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 14:21:39 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> On 6/17/19 12:18 PM, David Nock wrote: > Irene,? Nick K and company have a group of 3-4 cars going with stops in > Sep. 1 Lovelock NV? Lovelock Inn 55 Cornell Ave. 866-599-6674 > Sep 2 Wendover UT Best Western Plus Wendover Inn 685 E Wendover Blvd. > 435-665-2215 > Sep 3 Rock Springs WY? Best Western 1630 Elk St 307-367-6623 > Sep 4 Buffalo WY Holiday Inn Express? 106 E Hwy 16 307-684-9900 > Sep 5 Deadwood!!! > Myself, Marc L, Mike S, and Steve Cloyse will leave on Wednesday via > Hwy 50 > Austin Nevada, Green River Wy,? Deadwood SD. I'll wave as you drive through Salt Lake City. mjb. From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 14:31:09 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 13:31:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Will post our itinerary this evening. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 11:19 AM David Nock wrote: > Irene, Nick K and company have a group of 3-4 cars going with stops in > > Sep. 1 Lovelock NV Lovelock Inn 55 Cornell Ave. 866-599-6674 > > Sep 2 Wendover UT Best Western Plus Wendover Inn 685 E Wendover Blvd. > 435-665-2215 > > Sep 3 Rock Springs WY Best Western 1630 Elk St 307-367-6623 > > Sep 4 Buffalo WY Holiday Inn Express 106 E Hwy 16 307-684-9900 > > Sep 5 Deadwood!!! > > Myself, Marc L, Mike S, and Steve Cloyse will leave on Wednesday via Hwy > 50 > Austin Nevada, Green River Wy, Deadwood SD. > > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhall.org > > *From:* Richard Kahn > *Sent:* Monday, June 17, 2019 10:25 AM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Deadwood SD > > Anyone from Northern California going to Conclave in Deadwood? > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 16:21:24 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 15:21:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: I can provide hotel info, if this line sup with your plans Sunday Sept 1st Portland to Madras, Mon. Ontario OR.,292 mi. Tues. Ontario to Idaho Falls, 309 mi. Wed. Idaho Falls to Dubois WY 172 mi. ( we will be traveling thru the Tetons & Jackson Hole WY. This day so we allowed time for stops. Thurs. Dubois to Evansville WY 225 mi. Evansville to Deadwood 235. We will be off of freeways most of the time except for some time between Ontario and east of Boise. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 1:31 PM i erbs wrote: > Will post our itinerary this evening. > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 11:19 AM David Nock wrote: > >> Irene, Nick K and company have a group of 3-4 cars going with stops in >> >> Sep. 1 Lovelock NV Lovelock Inn 55 Cornell Ave. 866-599-6674 >> >> Sep 2 Wendover UT Best Western Plus Wendover Inn 685 E Wendover Blvd. >> 435-665-2215 >> >> Sep 3 Rock Springs WY Best Western 1630 Elk St 307-367-6623 >> >> Sep 4 Buffalo WY Holiday Inn Express 106 E Hwy 16 307-684-9900 >> >> Sep 5 Deadwood!!! >> >> Myself, Marc L, Mike S, and Steve Cloyse will leave on Wednesday via Hwy >> 50 >> Austin Nevada, Green River Wy, Deadwood SD. >> >> >> >> David Nock >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> 209 948 8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the >> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites >> by visiting the site at. >> www.britishsportscarhall.org >> >> *From:* Richard Kahn >> *Sent:* Monday, June 17, 2019 10:25 AM >> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Deadwood SD >> >> Anyone from Northern California going to Conclave in Deadwood? >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 18:13:27 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 17:13:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for someone in Louisiana Message-ID: Please contact me directly. When I was there over the summer I bought a bottle of La 1 whiskey. They can no longer ship from the distillery, So I am looking for someone to buy me 4 bottles and ship it to me in Oregon LA1 WHISKEY Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jun 17 19:58:46 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 18:58:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <720d7b5e-1763-5891-32e2-4fe850a59438@comcast.net> Spent a couple nights in Green River a few years ago waiting for a couple water pumps--both defective--to be delivered to my motel.? Windy as hell. Bob On 6/17/2019 1:21 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: > On 6/17/19 12:18 PM, David Nock wrote: >> Irene,? Nick K and company have a group of 3-4 cars going with stops in >> Sep. 1 Lovelock NV? Lovelock Inn 55 Cornell Ave. 866-599-6674 >> Sep 2 Wendover UT Best Western Plus Wendover Inn 685 E Wendover Blvd. >> 435-665-2215 >> Sep 3 Rock Springs WY? Best Western 1630 Elk St 307-367-6623 >> Sep 4 Buffalo WY Holiday Inn Express? 106 E Hwy 16 307-684-9900 >> Sep 5 Deadwood!!! >> Myself, Marc L, Mike S, and Steve Cloyse will leave on Wednesday via >> Hwy 50 >> Austin Nevada, Green River Wy,? Deadwood SD. > > > I'll wave as you drive through Salt Lake City. > > > mjb. > From mark at bradakis.com Mon Jun 17 21:05:30 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 21:05:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: <720d7b5e-1763-5891-32e2-4fe850a59438@comcast.net> References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> <720d7b5e-1763-5891-32e2-4fe850a59438@comcast.net> Message-ID: On 6/17/19 7:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Spent a couple nights in Green River a few years ago waiting for a > couple water pumps--both defective--to be delivered to my motel. Windy > as hell. Green River is mostly a railroad town, Union Pacific has a switching yard there.? Restaurant scene is pretty bleak.? There is a bar called The Brewery which does not brew beer, it is just located in the old Sweetwater Brewing Company building, but they do a pretty decent hamburger.? It is down on the west end of town on Railroad Street. The Hitching Post is probably the closest you'll come to fine dining up there, it is on the main drag towards the east end of town. mjb. From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Jun 17 23:06:40 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 22:06:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> <720d7b5e-1763-5891-32e2-4fe850a59438@comcast.net> Message-ID: <18986366-745f-5eac-2d8b-baa356c0e4fb@comcast.net> If you stay here, say 'Hi!' to Umesh from the guy that changed a Healey water pump in his parking lot: On 6/17/2019 8:05 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: > On 6/17/19 7:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> Spent a couple nights in Green River a few years ago waiting for a >> couple water pumps--both defective--to be delivered to my motel. >> Windy as hell. > > Green River is mostly a railroad town, Union Pacific has a switching > yard there.? Restaurant scene is pretty bleak.? There is a bar called > The Brewery which does not brew beer, it is just located in the old > Sweetwater Brewing Company building, but they do a pretty decent > hamburger.? It is down on the west end of town on Railroad Street. > > The Hitching Post is probably the closest you'll come to fine dining > up there, it is on the main drag towards the east end of town. > > mjb. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: GRHotel.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 83058 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Jun 18 00:21:50 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 23:21:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: <18986366-745f-5eac-2d8b-baa356c0e4fb@comcast.net> References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> <720d7b5e-1763-5891-32e2-4fe850a59438@comcast.net> <18986366-745f-5eac-2d8b-baa356c0e4fb@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000001d5259e$1da41250$58ec36f0$@sbcglobal.net> Had just about the same experience in college many years ago. Water pump went down in Chico 9 hours into a 13 hour trip. The next day I hitch hiked into Sacramento to pick up a WP from the local dealer. Hitch hiked back only to find it was not right. Called my mom from a phone booth and asked her to get the right part and drive 4 hours to bring it. I had it the next day and installed it at a local gas station that let me use their facilities. Parents love their kids and I love my mom; I will never forget that. John Spaur '62 BT7 With a spare water pump because my mom has passed away. ;_; From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Monday, June 17, 2019 10:07 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Deadwood SD If you stay here, say 'Hi!' to Umesh from the guy that changed a Healey water pump in his parking lot: On 6/17/2019 8:05 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: On 6/17/19 7:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: Spent a couple nights in Green River a few years ago waiting for a couple water pumps--both defective--to be delivered to my motel. Windy as hell. Green River is mostly a railroad town, Union Pacific has a switching yard there. Restaurant scene is pretty bleak. There is a bar called The Brewery which does not brew beer, it is just located in the old Sweetwater Brewing Company building, but they do a pretty decent hamburger. It is down on the west end of town on Railroad Street. The Hitching Post is probably the closest you'll come to fine dining up there, it is on the main drag towards the east end of town. mjb. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83058 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 10:12:21 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 12:12:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Deadwood SD In-Reply-To: <000001d5259e$1da41250$58ec36f0$@sbcglobal.net> References: <54138F8BA2AA4FD3961744C33E370CB7@DavidNockHP> <934ecf67-acc8-052f-ddfa-00b4e670881e@bradakis.com> <720d7b5e-1763-5891-32e2-4fe850a59438@comcast.net> <18986366-745f-5eac-2d8b-baa356c0e4fb@comcast.net> <000001d5259e$1da41250$58ec36f0$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: Moss Motors and UPS might deliver next day but it won't be the same as Mom.... Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jun 18, 2019, 2:22 AM John Spaur wrote: > Had just about the same experience in college many years ago. Water pump > went down in Chico 9 hours into a 13 hour trip. The next day I hitch hiked > into Sacramento to pick up a WP from the local dealer. Hitch hiked back > only to find it was not right. Called my mom from a phone booth and asked > her to get the right part and drive 4 hours to bring it. I had it the next > day and installed it at a local gas station that let me use their > facilities. Parents love their kids and I love my mom; I will never forget > that. > > > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > With a spare water pump because my mom has passed away. ;_; > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Bob > Spidell > *Sent:* Monday, June 17, 2019 10:07 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Deadwood SD > > > > If you stay here, say 'Hi!' to Umesh from the guy that changed a Healey > water pump in his parking lot: > > > > On 6/17/2019 8:05 PM, Mark J Bradakis via Healeys wrote: > > On 6/17/19 7:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Spent a couple nights in Green River a few years ago waiting for a couple > water pumps--both defective--to be delivered to my motel. Windy as hell. > > > Green River is mostly a railroad town, Union Pacific has a switching yard > there. Restaurant scene is pretty bleak. There is a bar called The > Brewery which does not brew beer, it is just located in the old Sweetwater > Brewing Company building, but they do a pretty decent hamburger. It is > down on the west end of town on Railroad Street. > > The Hitching Post is probably the closest you'll come to fine dining up > there, it is on the main drag towards the east end of town. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 83058 bytes Desc: not available URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 13:39:25 2019 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 12:39:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners Message-ID: I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Jun 18 13:51:47 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 19:51:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Neil, I do not quite understand what you are asking here but I have a BN6 and the tonneau cover is held at the front by a turnbuckle on the driver side and the passenger side> Each turnbuckle is secured to the dashtop by two screws and there is also a ?Tenax ? fastener that holds the passenger side of the tonneau cover immediately next to the zipper very close to the rearview mirror. Nothing else holds the tonneau cover at the front. There are no rivets anywhere at the front. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:39:25 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 14:05:44 2019 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 13:05:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Jean. Interesting! If you look at the Moss Motors parts parts manual it shows a rivet (64) is used to attach the turn button. I guess the answer will be the size of the attachment holes in the turn buttons/turnbuckles when they arrive. If screws are used, do they have to go through to the steel or will the trim backing board have enough strength to hold the tonneau? Probably not! On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 12:51 PM Jean Caron < vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > Neil, > > I do not quite understand what you are asking here but I have a BN6 and > the tonneau cover is held at the front by a turnbuckle on the driver side > and the passenger side> Each turnbuckle is secured to the dashtop by two > screws and there is also a ?Tenax ? fastener that holds the passenger side > of the tonneau cover immediately next to the zipper very close to the > rearview mirror. Nothing else holds the tonneau cover at the front. There > are no rivets anywhere at the front. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Neil > McDonald > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:39:25 PM > *To:* Healey List > *Subject:* [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners > > I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new > tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the > visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right > in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this > trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? > Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. > -- > ____________________ > Neil & Pam McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 14:17:42 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 13:17:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: they need to go into the steel or the cover will pull them out Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 1:06 PM Neil McDonald wrote: > Thanks Jean. Interesting! > > If you look at the Moss Motors parts parts manual it shows a rivet (64) is > used to attach the turn button. I guess the answer will be the size of the > attachment holes in the turn buttons/turnbuckles when they arrive. > > If screws are used, do they have to go through to the steel or will the > trim backing board have enough strength to hold the tonneau? Probably not! > > On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 12:51 PM Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > >> Neil, >> >> I do not quite understand what you are asking here but I have a BN6 and >> the tonneau cover is held at the front by a turnbuckle on the driver side >> and the passenger side> Each turnbuckle is secured to the dashtop by two >> screws and there is also a ?Tenax ? fastener that holds the passenger side >> of the tonneau cover immediately next to the zipper very close to the >> rearview mirror. Nothing else holds the tonneau cover at the front. There >> are no rivets anywhere at the front. >> >> >> >> Jean >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> *From:* Healeys on behalf of Neil >> McDonald >> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:39:25 PM >> *To:* Healey List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners >> >> I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new >> tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the >> visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right >> in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this >> trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? >> Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. >> -- >> ____________________ >> Neil & Pam McDonald >> >> Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com >> >> -- > ____________________ > Neil & Pam McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From editorgary at aol.com Tue Jun 18 15:18:53 2019 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 21:18:53 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood References: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206@mail.yahoo.com> I understand there's a contingent driving with Roger Moment up from Colorado Springs, and the group from Portland will be driving east into Wyoming from Bend and then north up through the Tetons. This gathering is going to be epic. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jun 18 15:29:15 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 17:29:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Folks Lets back up a bit. The turn button for the earlier 6 cylinder cars, like BN6, is the same part number (Moss) and part, and in real life the same as the 100 cars. On the 100 you use two screws to fasten the turn button. Have never have seen the 100 cars use anything other than number 4 sheet metal screws. By merit that the part numbers are the same in the Moss catalog and in real life, the early six cylinder cars used a number 4 sheet metal also. A rivet would have to be much larger diameter. To verify I just installed a new number 4 screw in an original BN4 scuttle top panel and it screwed in just like it should. Hope everyone is having a great day. Raining like crazy in western PA but still a good day. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 4:06 PM To: Jean Caron Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners Thanks Jean. Interesting!? If you look at the Moss Motors parts parts manual it shows a rivet (64) is used to attach the turn button. I guess the answer will be the size of the attachment holes in the turn buttons/turnbuckles when they arrive.? If screws are used, do they have to go through to the steel or will the trim backing board have enough strength to hold the tonneau? Probably not! On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 12:51 PM Jean Caron wrote: Neil, I do not quite understand what you are asking here but I have a BN6 and the tonneau cover is held at the front by a turnbuckle on the driver side and the passenger side> Each turnbuckle is secured to the dashtop by two screws and there is also a ?Tenax ? fastener that holds the passenger side of the tonneau cover immediately next to the zipper very close to the rearview mirror. Nothing else holds the tonneau cover at the front. There are no rivets anywhere at the front. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Healeys on behalf of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:39:25 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners ? I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 6D59712FF1AE4CB28D937DFB4941D193.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Jun 18 15:41:00 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 21:41:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners In-Reply-To: <20190618212942.1FE38A0966@autox.team.net> References: , <20190618212942.1FE38A0966@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Neil, The screws are #8 by ?? , countersunk, Phillips or Pozidrive, chromed. I would also suggest that you purchase a longer male part of the ?Tenax? to screw into the dashtop at the centre, makes it a lot easier to work with, see photo. Jean [cid:image001.jpg at 01D525F4.A2A18540] [cid:image002.jpg at 01D525F4.A2A18540] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 4:29:15 PM To: Neil McDonald Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners Folks Lets back up a bit. The turn button for the earlier 6 cylinder cars, like BN6, is the same part number (Moss) and part, and in real life the same as the 100 cars. On the 100 you use two screws to fasten the turn button. Have never have seen the 100 cars use anything other than number 4 sheet metal screws. By merit that the part numbers are the same in the Moss catalog and in real life, the early six cylinder cars used a number 4 sheet metal also. A rivet would have to be much larger diameter. To verify I just installed a new number 4 screw in an original BN4 scuttle top panel and it screwed in just like it should. Hope everyone is having a great day. Raining like crazy in western PA but still a good day. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 4:06 PM To: Jean Caron Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners Thanks Jean. Interesting! If you look at the Moss Motors parts parts manual it shows a rivet (64) is used to attach the turn button. I guess the answer will be the size of the attachment holes in the turn buttons/turnbuckles when they arrive. If screws are used, do they have to go through to the steel or will the trim backing board have enough strength to hold the tonneau? Probably not! On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 12:51 PM Jean Caron > wrote: Neil, I do not quite understand what you are asking here but I have a BN6 and the tonneau cover is held at the front by a turnbuckle on the driver side and the passenger side> Each turnbuckle is secured to the dashtop by two screws and there is also a ?Tenax ? fastener that holds the passenger side of the tonneau cover immediately next to the zipper very close to the rearview mirror. Nothing else holds the tonneau cover at the front. There are no rivets anywhere at the front. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Healeys > on behalf of Neil McDonald > Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:39:25 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 6D59712FF1AE4CB28D937DFB4941D193.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: 6D59712FF1AE4CB28D937DFB4941D193.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 88747C3CCD5F4985A90FF7045807E620.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 55927 bytes Desc: 88747C3CCD5F4985A90FF7045807E620.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 078BB91EA58F42898670C9A546E8EC5A.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 49489 bytes Desc: 078BB91EA58F42898670C9A546E8EC5A.jpg URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 15:44:13 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 14:44:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood In-Reply-To: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9360C73BBCEC49B1B42B1B26D23B5E17@DavidNockHP> There are at least 4 groups traveling from California David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhall.org From: editorgary--- via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:18 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood I understand there's a contingent driving with Roger Moment up from Colorado Springs, and the group from Portland will be driving east into Wyoming from Bend and then north up through the Tetons. This gathering is going to be epic. Gary Anderson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Jun 18 16:03:27 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 18:03:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners In-Reply-To: References: , <20190618212942.1FE38A0966@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Jean As an old friend used to say, I yield to your expertise. Back to watching the rain. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 5:42 PM To: Neil McDonald Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners Neil, The screws are #8 by ?? , countersunk, Phillips or Pozidrive, chromed. I would also suggest that you purchase a longer male part of the ?Tenax? to screw into the dashtop at the centre, makes it a lot easier to work with, see photo. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Healeys on behalf of Perry via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 4:29:15 PM To: Neil McDonald Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners ? Folks Lets back up a bit.? The turn button for the earlier 6 cylinder cars, like BN6, is the same part number (Moss) and part, and in real life the same as the 100 cars.? On the 100 you use two screws to fasten the turn button. Have never have seen the 100 cars use anything other than number 4 sheet metal screws. By merit that the part numbers are the same in the Moss catalog and in real life, the early six cylinder cars used a number 4 sheet metal also. A rivet would have to be much larger diameter.? To verify I just installed a new number 4 screw in an original BN4 scuttle top panel and it screwed in just like it should. Hope everyone is having a great day.? Raining like crazy in western PA but still a good day. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 4:06 PM To: Jean Caron Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners Thanks Jean. Interesting!? If you look at the Moss Motors parts parts manual it shows a rivet (64) is used to attach the turn button. I guess the answer will be the size of the attachment holes in the turn buttons/turnbuckles when they arrive.? If screws are used, do they have to go through to the steel or will the trim backing board have enough strength to hold the tonneau? Probably not! On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 12:51 PM Jean Caron wrote: Neil, I do not quite understand what you are asking here but I have a BN6 and the tonneau cover is held at the front by a turnbuckle on the driver side and the passenger side> Each turnbuckle is secured to the dashtop by two screws and there is also a ?Tenax ? fastener that holds the passenger side of the tonneau cover immediately next to the zipper very close to the rearview mirror. Nothing else holds the tonneau cover at the front. There are no rivets anywhere at the front. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Healeys on behalf of Neil McDonald Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:39:25 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Tonneau Cover Fasteners ? I need to install several turn buttons to hold the front end of my new tonneau cover to the trim over the inner panel scuttle top. I believe the visible vinyl covers a hardboard or similar semi rigid backing. Am I right in thinking that I need to use blind rivets to go all the way through this trim piece to attach the turn button to the steel inner panel scuttle top? Or should this be a screw attachment to the steel? Comments please. -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: F7E5BFF6D8D842A6BEF1D1D48D90CA74.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 6D59712FF1AE4CB28D937DFB4941D193.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 88747C3CCD5F4985A90FF7045807E620.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 55927 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 078BB91EA58F42898670C9A546E8EC5A.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 49489 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Jun 18 16:55:27 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 15:55:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood In-Reply-To: <9360C73BBCEC49B1B42B1B26D23B5E17@DavidNockHP> References: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206@mail.yahoo.com> <9360C73BBCEC49B1B42B1B26D23B5E17@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: There Are also few folks going solo from Portland. Steve Pike, and Reid Trammel are not very social;) Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Tue, Jun 18, 2019, 2:44 PM David Nock wrote: > There are at least 4 groups traveling from California > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhall.org > > *From:* editorgary--- via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:18 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood > > I understand there's a contingent driving with Roger Moment up from > Colorado Springs, and the group from Portland will be driving east into > Wyoming from Bend and then north up through the Tetons. This gathering is > going to be epic. > > Gary Anderson > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jun 18 17:17:18 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 19:17:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood In-Reply-To: <9360C73BBCEC49B1B42B1B26D23B5E17@DavidNockHP> References: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206@mail.yahoo.com> <9360C73BBCEC49B1B42B1B26D23B5E17@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <17262031-d089-4d13-6f12-39f6a326a3be@earthlink.net> David, The British Sports Car Hall of Fame website is a bit longer than you give in your signature: http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org It doesn't seem to have been updated for a year or so. If the list of possible inductees is up-to-date, it also includes mjb, rich chrysler, roger moment and gary anderson. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/18/19 5:44 PM, David Nock wrote: > There are at least 4 groups traveling from California > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhall.org > *From:* editorgary--- via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:18 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood > I understand there's a contingent driving with Roger Moment up from > Colorado Springs, and the group from Portland will be driving east into > Wyoming from Bend and then north up through the Tetons. This gathering > is going to be epic. > > Gary Anderson > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Jun 18 19:18:04 2019 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 21:18:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood In-Reply-To: <17262031-d089-4d13-6f12-39f6a326a3be@earthlink.net> References: <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1456486184.2571956.1560892733206@mail.yahoo.com> <9360C73BBCEC49B1B42B1B26D23B5E17@DavidNockHP> <17262031-d089-4d13-6f12-39f6a326a3be@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <002601d5263c$d8b520e0$8a1f62a0$@verizon.net> They are on the ballot. Just voted John Sims www.healey6.com Aberdeen, NJ -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Tuesday, June 18, 2019 7:17 PM To: David Nock ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood David, The British Sports Car Hall of Fame website is a bit longer than you give in your signature: http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org It doesn't seem to have been updated for a year or so. If the list of possible inductees is up-to-date, it also includes mjb, rich chrysler, roger moment and gary anderson. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/18/19 5:44 PM, David Nock wrote: > There are at least 4 groups traveling from California David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British > Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting > the site at. > www.britishsportscarhall.org > *From:* editorgary--- via Healeys > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 18, 2019 2:18 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* [Healeys] Caravans to Deadwood I understand there's a > contingent driving with Roger Moment up from Colorado Springs, and the > group from Portland will be driving east into Wyoming from Bend and > then north up through the Tetons. This gathering is going to be epic. > > Gary Anderson > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com Wed Jun 19 01:53:10 2019 From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 02:53:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 carb repair Message-ID: <016701d52674$0a0836f0$1e18a4d0$@glasgow-ky.com> One of my carbs is leaking fuel from the bottom of the jet assy, so I need to disassemble the jet bearing assemblies and replace the jet washers. Is it best to use the cork gland washers as original (soaked in oil for 24 hours), or the newer O-ring "leak proof replacement" sold by Moss and others? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com Wed Jun 19 01:59:34 2019 From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 02:59:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser Message-ID: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> Are the "premium aftermarket" point set and "condenser & lead" sold by Moss and others significantly better than the original Lucas parts? --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Jun 19 03:01:18 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 11:01:18 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser In-Reply-To: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> References: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> Message-ID: <1aa179e9-6af0-f452-a8e2-cda8bf330315@chello.nl> The best are NOS original Lucas parts. The modern "original" Lucas stuff is probably made in India, Taiwan, Indonesia, China etc. and of uncertain quality. This probably goes for the "premium aftermarket" set as well. Kees Oudesluijs Op 19-6-2019 om 09:59 schreef Charles Rice: > > ???? Are the ?premium aftermarket? point set and ?condenser & lead? > > sold by Moss and others significantly better than the original Lucas > > parts? > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > > > > <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jun 19 05:40:19 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 07:40:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser In-Reply-To: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> References: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> Message-ID: When it comes to ignition stuff I suggest you contact Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors in MN for good advice, service and products. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 3:59 AM Charles Rice wrote: > Are the ?premium aftermarket? point set and ?condenser & lead? > > sold by Moss and others significantly better than the original Lucas > > parts? > > > > > Virus-free. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-2109808624856214853_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Jun 19 08:20:57 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 07:20:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser In-Reply-To: References: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> Message-ID: <049601d526aa$38c618a0$aa5249e0$@roadrunner.com> Agreed. I will only order ignition parts from Jeff. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 4:40 AM To: Charles Rice Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser When it comes to ignition stuff I suggest you contact Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors in MN for good advice, service and products. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 3:59 AM Charles Rice > wrote: Are the ?premium aftermarket? point set and ?condenser & lead? sold by Moss and others significantly better than the original Lucas parts? Virus-free. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Wed Jun 19 09:33:54 2019 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 15:33:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Side Curtains and Door Glass References: <918436837.2899829.1560958434156.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <918436837.2899829.1560958434156@mail.yahoo.com> FOR SALE:? Pair of side curtains, L and R, salvaged long ago.? Sliders fair to poor.? Frame complete but finish poor.? Will need all seals, brackets and hardware.? Free plus shipping and packing of $25. FOR SALE:? Door glass, R passenger.? (broke the L cleaning it.? DOH)? One of the best I have seen. ? Very little scratching.? Maybe 8 or 9.? Probably better than the one in my own car! ? Make me an offer. Questions? 757-877-3119Keith -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jun 19 11:45:35 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 10:45:35 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] San Jose Sprite Message-ID: Hello all, Friend in San Jose , CA has an elderly neighbor with a 65 Sprite for sale. Car has been on blocks for 25 years. Was well taken care of. Will upload photos later today. Looking for someone knowledgeable in Sprites ot help evaluate the car and help with a price. Car is complete and ran when parked. Please message me for more details. Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deejay2650 at gmail.com Wed Jun 19 14:42:59 2019 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650 .) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2019 06:42:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points and condenser Message-ID: G'day All, Please check out this website in the UK, the Distributor Doctor really knows his stuff and has supplied many Healey owners down-under with quality pre-tensioned points, red rotor arms and condensers. Happy Healeying, Darryl '67 BJ8 http://www.distributordoctor.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jun 19 16:28:42 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 18:28:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points and condenser In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <76530aa0-4923-70fc-daa2-8d60c88beb46@earthlink.net> I bought some DM6A LT leads from the Distributor Doctor. Jeff S. just had them for the distributors he rebuilds. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/19/19 4:42 PM, Deejay2650 . wrote: > G'day All, > Please check out this website in the UK, the Distributor Doctor really > knows his stuff and has supplied many Healey owners down-under with > quality pre-tensioned points, red rotor arms and condensers. > Happy Healeying, > Darryl > '67 BJ8 > http://www.distributordoctor.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Thu Jun 20 02:39:51 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2019 09:39:51 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points and condenser In-Reply-To: <76530aa0-4923-70fc-daa2-8d60c88beb46@earthlink.net> References: <76530aa0-4923-70fc-daa2-8d60c88beb46@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000001d52743$bc6efca0$354cf5e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Yes. I'd endorse Distributor Doctor any day. I gather that their "Red Rotor Arm" is the best on the market. Checking that on the web just now, I see that other people are peddling red rotors. I suppose that, just because a rotor is red, it doesn't mean that it's good quality any more. Simon -----Original Message----- From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: 19 June 2019 23:29 To: Deejay2650 . ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 points and condenser I bought some DM6A LT leads from the Distributor Doctor. Jeff S. just had them for the distributors he rebuilds. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/19/19 4:42 PM, Deejay2650 . wrote: > G'day All, > Please check out this website in the UK, the Distributor Doctor really > knows his stuff and has supplied many Healey owners down-under with > quality pre-tensioned points, red rotor arms and condensers. > Happy Healeying, > Darryl > '67 BJ8 > http://www.distributordoctor.com/ > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus. com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Jun 20 08:29:05 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 20 Jun 2019 07:29:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points and condenser In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Great HD condenser. I had three new Lucas Units fail. The Dr. Has the answer. May be what Moss now carries. Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 1:43 PM Deejay2650 . wrote: > G'day All, > Please check out this website in the UK, the Distributor Doctor really > knows his stuff and has supplied many Healey owners down-under with quality > pre-tensioned points, red rotor arms and condensers. > Happy Healeying, > Darryl > '67 BJ8 > http://www.distributordoctor.com/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From deejay2650 at gmail.com Thu Jun 20 16:05:00 2019 From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650 .) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2019 08:05:00 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points and condenser Message-ID: G'day All, Re: the Doctors red rotor arms, as Simon has mentioned, there are low grade pirated copies everywhere these days, but the Doctor has specially marked his so you can purchase with confidence that you a getting the 'real deal'. He has a good article on red rotors here: http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.html Happy Healeying, Darryl '67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jun 21 11:46:30 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2019 10:46:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Jun 21 12:33:44 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2019 14:33:44 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Mike, No Mike, just to keep things interesting the threads on the extensions are the opposite to the bearing nuts ...so: Bearing nuts LHS left hand thread. RHS right hand thread Wire wheel adaptors (Spinners) LHS right hand thread RHS left hand thread M On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 1:46 PM Mike MacLean, wrote: > I am finishing up the rear axle for my BN2 by installing the hubs and hub > extensions. Am I correct in assuming that the hub extension threads are > "handed" in the same direction as the hub nuts? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jun 21 13:27:39 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2019 19:27:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1261722523.220203.1561145260001@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Mike.? I didn't see that coming.? So, does the tightening physics of thread direction only apply to the hub extensions?? Easy to make a serious mistake here.? Thanks again.Mike M On Friday, June 21, 2019, 11:33:58 AM PDT, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Mike,?No Mike, just to keep things interesting the threads on the extensions are the opposite to the bearing nuts ...so: Bearing nutsLHS left hand thread.RHS right hand thread Wire wheel adaptors (Spinners)LHS right hand threadRHS left hand thread? M On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 1:46 PM Mike MacLean, wrote: I am finishing up the rear axle for my BN2 by installing the hubs and hub extensions.? Am I correct in assuming that the hub extension threads are "handed" in the same direction as the hub nuts???Mike MacLean_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jun 21 15:25:43 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2019 14:25:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedi-Sleeve Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Jun 21 17:21:41 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2019 23:21:41 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions In-Reply-To: References: <1261722523.220203.1561145260001@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <882581664.281582.1561159301252@mail.yahoo.com> Certainly sounds like logical thinking.? Just wonder how effective it is an reality, but I will install it that way!Mike M On Friday, June 21, 2019, 4:15:33 PM PDT, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: #yiv2186592684 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}The hub nuts are handed so that if the bearing slips it will tend to tighten the nut on the hub and to secure the bearing in position. The wheel nuts are handed so that the inertial force of the nut in motion will tend to tighten the nut against the wheel center. One thing I noticed while serving in the Army reserve was that the wheel nuts on all of our heavy equipment is also handed by the side of the vehicle they are located on. However in true bureaucratic fashion all of the left handed fasteners are located on the left side of the vehicle and all of the right handed fasteners are located on the right side of the vehicle. Thus proving that the inertial forces they are designed to counteract are not great enough to affect their position. I can see a lot of money wasted in the logistics of installation and stocking of both left and right hand fasteners for most military equipment... Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 7:27 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions?Thanks Mike.? I didn't see that coming.? So, does the tightening physics of thread direction only apply to the hub extensions?? Easy to make a serious mistake here.? Thanks again.Mike M On Friday, June 21, 2019, 11:33:58 AM PDT, Michael Salter wrote: Hi Mike,?No Mike, just to keep things interesting the threads on the extensions are the opposite to the bearing nuts ...so: Bearing nutsLHS left hand thread.RHS right hand thread Wire wheel adaptors (Spinners)LHS right hand threadRHS left hand thread? M On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 1:46 PM Mike MacLean, wrote: I am finishing up the rear axle for my BN2 by installing the hubs and hub extensions.? Am I correct in assuming that the hub extension threads are "handed" in the same direction as the hub nuts???Mike MacLean_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Jun 19 14:07:32 2019 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 16:07:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser In-Reply-To: <049601d526aa$38c618a0$aa5249e0$@roadrunner.com> References: <016c01d52674$ef4647c0$cdd2d740$@glasgow-ky.com> <049601d526aa$38c618a0$aa5249e0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <2A77702C-24B9-4D7A-B01F-34BF18FA1004@rogers.com> Well I?m glad he responded to you. I?ve left voicemail messages and emails him, and I?ve yet to receive a reply. He does do great work, ( did my distributor) and after a conversation with him last year I wanted to order some points....no luck yet! Stephen, BJ8 Sent from my iPad > On Jun 19, 2019, at 10:20 AM, Bruce Steele wrote: > > Agreed. I will only order ignition parts from Jeff. > > Bruce Steele > Brea, CA > 1960 BN7 > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt > Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 4:40 AM > To: Charles Rice > Cc: Austin Healey > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 points & condenser > > When it comes to ignition stuff I suggest you contact Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors in MN for good advice, service and products. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Wed, Jun 19, 2019 at 3:59 AM Charles Rice wrote: > Are the ?premium aftermarket? point set and ?condenser & lead? > sold by Moss and others significantly better than the original Lucas > parts? > > > > Virus-free. www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From per at schoerner.se Sat Jun 22 00:48:08 2019 From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 08:48:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions In-Reply-To: <882581664.281582.1561159301252@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1261722523.220203.1561145260001@mail.yahoo.com> <882581664.281582.1561159301252@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It?s very effective, at least on the spinners. When I put the wire wheels on I normally tighten the spinner by hand and one hit with a light sledge. They will self tighten. I made an experiment once, I tightened the spinners by hand as much as I could, then marked the positions of the spinners with a piece of tape. After some time driving around the spinners had tightened themselves, by half a turn or so. Per Skickat fr?n min iPhone > 22 juni 2019 kl. 01:21 skrev Michael MacLean : > > Certainly sounds like logical thinking. Just wonder how effective it is an reality, but I will install it that way! > Mike M > > On Friday, June 21, 2019, 4:15:33 PM PDT, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > > The hub nuts are handed so that if the bearing slips it will tend to tighten the nut on the hub and to secure the bearing in position. The wheel nuts are handed so that the inertial force of the nut in motion will tend to tighten the nut against the wheel center. > > One thing I noticed while serving in the Army reserve was that the wheel nuts on all of our heavy equipment is also handed by the side of the vehicle they are located on. However in true bureaucratic fashion all of the left handed fasteners are located on the left side of the vehicle and all of the right handed fasteners are located on the right side of the vehicle. Thus proving that the inertial forces they are designed to counteract are not great enough to affect their position. I can see a lot of money wasted in the logistics of installation and stocking of both left and right hand fasteners for most military equipment... > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean > Sent: Friday, June 21, 2019 7:27 PM > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Hub Spline Extensions > > Thanks Mike. I didn't see that coming. So, does the tightening physics of thread direction only apply to the hub extensions? Easy to make a serious mistake here. Thanks again. > Mike M > > On Friday, June 21, 2019, 11:33:58 AM PDT, Michael Salter wrote: > > > Hi Mike, > No Mike, just to keep things interesting the threads on the extensions are the opposite to the bearing nuts ...so: > > Bearing nuts > LHS left hand thread. > RHS right hand thread > > Wire wheel adaptors (Spinners) > LHS right hand thread > RHS left hand thread > > M > > > > On Fri, Jun 21, 2019, 1:46 PM Mike MacLean, wrote: > I am finishing up the rear axle for my BN2 by installing the hubs and hub extensions. Am I correct in assuming that the hub extension threads are "handed" in the same direction as the hub nuts? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rianhey at btinternet.com Sat Jun 22 04:35:19 2019 From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 11:35:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Speedi sleeve Message-ID: <008a01d528e6$30a1b1f0$91e515d0$@btinternet.com> The speedi sleeve for the rear axle oil seal (BN2 onwards) is SKF 99212 A longer application tool will be required than the one supplied with the speedi sleeve. Ian Hey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jun 22 05:20:47 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 04:20:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Speedi sleeve In-Reply-To: <008a01d528e6$30a1b1f0$91e515d0$@btinternet.com> Message-ID: <7ee6d622-cdcf-4e30-8ed2-fa1f345ff1a1@email.android.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Jun 22 07:23:22 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 09:23:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Speedi sleeve In-Reply-To: <7ee6d622-cdcf-4e30-8ed2-fa1f345ff1a1@email.android.com> References: <008a01d528e6$30a1b1f0$91e515d0$@btinternet.com> <7ee6d622-cdcf-4e30-8ed2-fa1f345ff1a1@email.android.com> Message-ID: I have often wondered why they furnish such a short tool. A trip to the plumbing aisle of your local hardware store will reveal an assortment of iron or PVC pipe, connectors and adaptors, one of which will be long enough to pick up the curved shoulder and seat the seal on the bearing surface. Before starting to install the sleeve It pays to create a small cut on the very edge of the shoulder section that must be removed as sometimes it is difficult to get a small cold chisel, etc. in place to give something to grab and pull on once the sealing surface is seated. By having a little burr you will only need a needle nose pliers to start and pull off the removable material without damaging either the sleeve or the bearing surface beneath it. Best--Michael Oritt Best On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:20 AM Mike MacLean wrote: > Thanks Ian. > > Mike M > > On Jun 22, 2019 3:35 AM, Ian Hey via Healeys > wrote: > > The speedi sleeve for the rear axle oil seal (BN2 onwards) is SKF 99212 > > > > A longer application tool will be required than the one supplied with the > speedi sleeve. > > > > Ian Hey > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Jun 22 13:53:47 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 12:53:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Horns Message-ID: <47257E6AEF704C69ABBF481DFA334C12@AllInOne> Can anyone identify these horns in the attached picture? They were installed on my Mk1 BT7 as replacements for the original Lucas Altette Horn. The mounting is very similar to the Lucas Altette. I couldn't find a name or part number anywhere. Thanks... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0354.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2205939 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jun 22 14:43:23 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 16:43:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Horns In-Reply-To: <47257E6AEF704C69ABBF481DFA334C12@AllInOne> References: <47257E6AEF704C69ABBF481DFA334C12@AllInOne> Message-ID: I also have 2 of those somewhere but like you have no idea what they are from!! Interestingly the ones I have have only one terminal so require a relay to work on a Healey. BTW the original horns on a Healey were Lucas Alto ... not Altette which were slightly smaller and mainly used on motorcycles. M On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 4:04 PM Harold Manifold wrote: > Can anyone identify these horns in the attached picture? They were > installed on my Mk1 BT7 as replacements for the original Lucas Altette > Horn. The mounting is very similar to the Lucas Altette. I couldn't find a > name or part number anywhere. > > Thanks... Harold > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ov at telus.net Sat Jun 22 17:52:34 2019 From: ov at telus.net (Oliver Viitamaki) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 16:52:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question Message-ID: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> ??? Hi, ??? In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, (Austin-Healey Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, photograph #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to better retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for that clip? ??? I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a BJ8, and just as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an aluminum core, instead of steel,? and the aluminum core fails to adequately retain the seal, on the flange. ??? Thanks in advance ??? ov From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Jun 22 19:45:45 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 21:45:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> Message-ID: I'm not sure that they are still available Oliver but the moss numbers that I have is 803-410. I have some if you have no luck there. M On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:52 PM Oliver Viitamaki wrote: > Hi, > > In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, (Austin-Healey > Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, photograph > #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to better > retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for that clip? > > I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a BJ8, and just > as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an aluminum core, > instead of steel, and the aluminum core fails to adequately retain the > seal, on the flange. > > Thanks in advance > > ov > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 23 00:04:54 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 22 Jun 2019 23:04:54 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> Message-ID: <000001d52989$947b8900$bd729b00$@sbcglobal.net> Uh... I hate to say it but, hot glue? -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Viitamaki Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2019 4:53 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question Hi, In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, (Austin-Healey Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, photograph #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to better retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for that clip? I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a BJ8, and just as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an aluminum core, instead of steel, and the aluminum core fails to adequately retain the seal, on the flange. Thanks in advance ov _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From healeyrik at gmail.com Sun Jun 23 09:00:18 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2019 11:00:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> Message-ID: Most of us who have tried to fit door seals, even with the clips, have found they don't stay in place. Weatherstripping adhesive doesn't help either. The only solution I'm aware of is the Bristleflex seals sold by Martin MacGregor. https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ Don't bother trying to order online as Martin just isn't very good at responding that way. Call him by phone, spend the money, and save yourself hours of frustration. Happy Healeying, Rick Neville On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 9:46 PM Michael Salter wrote: > I'm not sure that they are still available Oliver but the moss numbers > that I have is 803-410. > > I have some if you have no luck there. > > M > > On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:52 PM Oliver Viitamaki wrote: > >> Hi, >> >> In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, (Austin-Healey >> Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, photograph >> #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to better >> retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for that clip? >> >> I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a BJ8, and just >> as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an aluminum core, >> instead of steel, and the aluminum core fails to adequately retain the >> seal, on the flange. >> >> Thanks in advance >> >> ov >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Sun Jun 23 09:23:39 2019 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2019 11:23:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> Message-ID: <7DEF2121-326D-40FF-83C1-98CE89093DD5@rogers.com> Also, see John Sim?s site for the installation instructions. http://healey6.com/Technical/BristleflexInstructions.pdf There are definitely a couple of details that you have to be told about that help keep everything in place. I put mine in about four years ago, and so far, so good. Good luck, Stephen, BJ8 > On Jun 23, 2019, at 11:00 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > > Most of us who have tried to fit door seals, even with the clips, have found they don't stay in place. Weatherstripping adhesive doesn't help either. The only solution I'm aware of is the Bristleflex seals sold by Martin MacGregor. https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ Don't bother trying to order online as Martin just isn't very good at responding that way. Call him by phone, spend the money, and save yourself hours of frustration. > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 9:46 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > I'm not sure that they are still available Oliver but the moss numbers that I have is 803-410. > > I have some if you have no luck there. > > M > > On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:52 PM Oliver Viitamaki > wrote: > Hi, > > In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, (Austin-Healey > Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, photograph > #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to better > retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for that clip? > > I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a BJ8, and just > as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an aluminum core, > instead of steel, and the aluminum core fails to adequately retain the > seal, on the flange. > > Thanks in advance > > ov > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jstmorris at yahoo.com Sun Jun 23 13:33:22 2019 From: jstmorris at yahoo.com (jstmorris at yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2019 19:33:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Mystery Horns In-Reply-To: References: <47257E6AEF704C69ABBF481DFA334C12@AllInOne> Message-ID: <1750023782.788147.1561318402540@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Harold & Michael; Several years ago I put together the attached file regarding the horns for Austin Healeys. It may be of some help. --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives On Saturday, June 22, 2019, 4:43:54 p.m. EDT, Michael Salter wrote: I also have 2 of those somewhere but like you have no idea what they are from!!? Interestingly the ones I have? have only one terminal so require a relay to work on a Healey. BTW the original horns on a Healey were Lucas Alto ... not Altette which were slightly smaller and mainly used on motorcycles. M On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 4:04 PM Harold Manifold wrote: Can anyone identify these horns in the attached picture? They were installed on my Mk1 BT7 as replacements for the original Lucas Altette Horn. The mounting is very similar to the Lucas Altette. I couldn't find a name or part number anywhere.?Thanks... Harold_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jstmorris at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: AH Horn Specs [Revised 12-07-14].pdf Type: application/pdf Size: 121331 bytes Desc: not available URL: From banjojohn at cox.net Sun Jun 23 14:25:23 2019 From: banjojohn at cox.net (John) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2019 15:25:23 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: <7DEF2121-326D-40FF-83C1-98CE89093DD5@rogers.com> References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> <7DEF2121-326D-40FF-83C1-98CE89093DD5@rogers.com> Message-ID: Thanks Stephen for sharing this.? I went and checked my doors and sure enough, the aluminum trim pieces on the inside were not mounted to cover the fuzzy part of the bristleflex, and I've had issues from time to time of them getting kicked loose.? I removed and remounted the trim pieces as per instructions. You helped me fix a problem I didn't even know I had. John O'Brien '65 BJ8 (Madelyn) '61 Bugeye (Lucy) On 6/23/2019 10:23 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > Also, see John Sim?s site for the installation instructions. > http://healey6.com/Technical/BristleflexInstructions.pdf > > There are definitely a couple of details that you have to be told > about that help keep everything in place. > I put mine in about four years ago, and so far, so good. > > Good luck, > Stephen, BJ8 > > >> On Jun 23, 2019, at 11:00 AM, HealeyRick > > wrote: >> >> Most of us who have tried to fit door seals, even with the clips, >> have found they don't stay in place.? Weatherstripping adhesive >> doesn't help either.? The only solution I'm aware of is the >> Bristleflex seals sold by Martin MacGregor. >> https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ Don't bother trying to order >> online as Martin just isn't very good at responding that way.? Call >> him by phone, spend the money, and save yourself hours of frustration. >> >> Happy Healeying, >> Rick Neville >> >> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 9:46 PM Michael Salter >> > wrote: >> >> I'm not sure that they are still available Oliver but the moss >> numbers that I have is 803-410. >> >> I have some if you have no luck there. >> >> M >> >> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:52 PM Oliver Viitamaki > > wrote: >> >> ???? Hi, >> >> ???? In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, >> (Austin-Healey >> Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, >> photograph >> #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to >> better >> retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number >> for that clip? >> >> ???? I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a >> BJ8, and just >> as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an >> aluminum core, >> instead of steel,? and the aluminum core fails to adequately >> retain the >> seal, on the flange. >> >> ???? Thanks in advance >> >> ???? ov >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net >> http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jun 23 16:04:42 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 23 Jun 2019 15:04:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OT: Old Ford tractor acting spastic In-Reply-To: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> References: <5d5ce762-347b-f8c1-b49a-4d8f24e92ce4@chello.nl> Message-ID: Final report: I did some light grading with the tractor today and it ran good. Many suggested fuel delivery, which was (sort of) the problem; I put 5 gallons of fuel in it and it kept running.? I suspect, with older vehicles with gravity-feed gas delivery you need a couple gallons in order to put enough pressure on the lines and carb.? My Honda ATV started dying at idle--though the plug was fouled--but it started running OK when I put some more gas in it, which gave me a clue on the tractor. Many thanks for all the suggestions; most were 'in the ballpark' with fuel delivery. Bob On 6/8/2019 12:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > Dirty fuel causing blocked fuel filter if fitted, Fuel cap not venting > causing a vacuum in the tank (my best bet), bad condensor (even new > ones can be crap), plug leads. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 8-6-2019 om 08:46 schreef Bob Spidell: >> Not Healey-related--although I've heard Healey engines described as >> tractor-like--question for the List wisdom.? I have an old Ford >> tractor, model 851 manufactured in the early '50s, with a 4-cyl >> engine.?? Compression is good--145+/- on all four--and I've replaced >> points, condensor, distributor cap and plug wires and rebuilt the >> butt-simple Marvel Schebler carburettor (plugs were OK).? After the >> work, the tractor started quickly--after I fixed the 180deg-out >> distributor cap--and ran good for 15-20 minutes with a load from a >> scraper.? Then, it starts backfiring, tries to stall and struggle for >> a few seconds? then, if it doesn't die it seems to recover for >> another 15minutes and then the show starts again. The coil had some >> corrosion in it so I replaced it, with no change.? This tractor ran >> consistently but very poorly under load before my work. >> >> Only thing I can think of is the carb float sticking but it was an >> easy rebuild and I recently rebuilt another with no issues. Any ideas? >> >> Bob >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From ov at telus.net Mon Jun 24 08:39:04 2019 From: ov at telus.net (Oliver Viitamaki) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 07:39:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: <7DEF2121-326D-40FF-83C1-98CE89093DD5@rogers.com> References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> <7DEF2121-326D-40FF-83C1-98CE89093DD5@rogers.com> Message-ID: ??? To complete this discovery work, with help from the list, and some personal emails, the clip that Roger Moment used in the article is Moss part number 249-795. There are likely other suppliers. ??? The clip, Moss part number 803-410 suggested by Michael Salter, is used to hold the furry inside door window seal, and is a little different in shape, than that used in Roger's article. It may work equally well. ??? At this time both clips are available at Moss Motors. ??? ov On 23-Jun.-2019 8:23 a.m., Stephen Hutchings wrote: > Also, see John Sim?s site for the installation instructions. > http://healey6.com/Technical/BristleflexInstructions.pdf > > There are definitely a couple of details that you have to be told > about that help keep everything in place. > I put mine in about four years ago, and so far, so good. > > Good luck, > Stephen, BJ8 > > >> On Jun 23, 2019, at 11:00 AM, HealeyRick > > wrote: >> >> Most of us who have tried to fit door seals, even with the clips, >> have found they don't stay in place.? Weatherstripping adhesive >> doesn't help either.? The only solution I'm aware of is the >> Bristleflex seals sold by Martin MacGregor. >> https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ Don't bother trying to order >> online as Martin just isn't very good at responding that way.? Call >> him by phone, spend the money, and save yourself hours of frustration. >> >> Happy Healeying, >> Rick Neville >> >> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 9:46 PM Michael Salter >> > wrote: >> >> I'm not sure that they are still available Oliver but the moss >> numbers that I have is 803-410. >> >> I have some if you have no luck there. >> >> M >> >> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:52 PM Oliver Viitamaki > > wrote: >> >> ???? Hi, >> >> ???? In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, >> (Austin-Healey >> Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, >> photograph >> #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to >> better >> retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number >> for that clip? >> >> ???? I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a >> BJ8, and just >> as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an >> aluminum core, >> instead of steel,? and the aluminum core fails to adequately >> retain the >> seal, on the flange. >> >> ???? Thanks in advance >> >> ???? ov >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ov at telus.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Jun 24 09:59:55 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 11:59:55 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Door seal retaining clip question In-Reply-To: References: <086eeb08-f258-365b-c7d2-427de903cea2@telus.net> <7DEF2121-326D-40FF-83C1-98CE89093DD5@rogers.com> Message-ID: Oops ... sorry my bad. The correct Moss number for the aluminum backed door seal is 803-400. The combination actually works very if installed correctly but don't ever try to get the seal off. On Mon, Jun 24, 2019, 10:39 AM Oliver Viitamaki, wrote: > > To complete this discovery work, with help from the list, and some > personal emails, the clip that Roger Moment used in the article is Moss > part number 249-795. There are likely other suppliers. > > The clip, Moss part number 803-410 suggested by Michael Salter, is > used to hold the furry inside door window seal, and is a little different > in shape, than that used in Roger's article. It may work equally well. > > At this time both clips are available at Moss Motors. > > ov > On 23-Jun.-2019 8:23 a.m., Stephen Hutchings wrote: > > Also, see John Sim?s site for the installation instructions. > http://healey6.com/Technical/BristleflexInstructions.pdf > > There are definitely a couple of details that you have to be told about > that help keep everything in place. > I put mine in about four years ago, and so far, so good. > > Good luck, > Stephen, BJ8 > > > On Jun 23, 2019, at 11:00 AM, HealeyRick wrote: > > Most of us who have tried to fit door seals, even with the clips, have > found they don't stay in place. Weatherstripping adhesive doesn't help > either. The only solution I'm aware of is the Bristleflex seals sold by > Martin MacGregor. https://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/ Don't bother > trying to order online as Martin just isn't very good at responding that > way. Call him by phone, spend the money, and save yourself hours of > frustration. > > Happy Healeying, > Rick Neville > > On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 9:46 PM Michael Salter > wrote: > >> I'm not sure that they are still available Oliver but the moss numbers >> that I have is 803-410. >> >> I have some if you have no luck there. >> >> M >> >> On Sat, Jun 22, 2019 at 7:52 PM Oliver Viitamaki wrote: >> >>> Hi, >>> >>> In Roger Moment's Healey Restoration Methods, (Austin-Healey >>> Magazine, Aug-Sept 2010), Restoration Tips, Part 31, Page 30, photograph >>> #28 he shows a clip which is inserted into the door seal, to better >>> retain it. Does anyone have a manufacturer and part number for that clip? >>> >>> I'm in the process of installing the door seals, on a BJ8, and just >>> as Roger states, the seal is now manufactured with an aluminum core, >>> instead of steel, and the aluminum core fails to adequately retain the >>> seal, on the flange. >>> >>> Thanks in advance >>> >>> ov >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ov at telus.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Jun 24 21:56:31 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 20:56:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting Message-ID: Red BJ on a flatbed heading East on the Oakland Bay Bridge. Washington plates. anyone on the list? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk Mon Jun 24 22:19:39 2019 From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 04:19:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Yard sale. References: <1454783655.2086383.1561436379508.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1454783655.2086383.1561436379508@mail.yahoo.com> This showed up on the Seattle Craigslist in case anybody's interested. Huge British Car Parts Yard Sale June 28-29 | | | | | | | | | | | Huge British Car Parts Yard Sale June 28-29 Hundreds of parts for Triumph, MG, Jaguar, and others. Engines, transmissions, body parts, radiators, gas tanks,... | | | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jun 25 00:29:30 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike) Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 23:29:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hub Nut Message-ID: I am putting the hubs on rebuilt rear axle.? I went back in the archives to find out the torque settings for the hub nut and conical locking nuts.? As far as I can tell, it has been stated in the past that 70 ft lbs for both is adequate.? I have a tube wrench that is specifically for the hub nut at 2 13/64ths.? It was good enough to drive the bearing on up to the machined ledge.? When I tried to torque it down to 30 ft lbs it rolled off the nut before I could get the wrench to double "click".? Crap.? It's always something.? Nothing is easy on this car.Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Jun 25 11:23:46 2019 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 10:23:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?healey_sighting?= Message-ID: <20190625172346.655.qmail@server278.com> watching Endeavor sunday night and they had a blue/white BJ8 on that i think i have seen in other british programs. From nmcd10 at gmail.com Tue Jun 25 11:45:57 2019 From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 10:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking Rear Hub Flange Message-ID: A lot of list chatter about how to stop oil leaks at the rear hub flange by replacing the paper gasket or using goo of some sort. Am I right in thinking that fitting a new oil seal inboard of the wheel bearing makes this issue redundant, or is this not necessarily the case? Neil BN6 -- ____________________ Neil & Pam McDonald Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Jun 25 13:24:51 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 15:24:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking Rear Hub Flange In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Neil-- A paper gasket stops oil leaking from the joint between the inner face of the axle flange and the outer face of the hub (bearing carrier). The lip seal stops oil leaking from the hub--that is, beyond the bearing in the hub and the shiny bearing surface on the end of the axle housing. So, they can both be a source of an oil leak. A paper gasket will not cure a bad lip seal and visa versa. But a paper gasket is much easier to replace! Hope that helps--it is easier to picture than describe.... Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 1:46 PM Neil McDonald wrote: > A lot of list chatter about how to stop oil leaks at the rear hub flange > by replacing the paper gasket or using goo of some sort. Am I right in > thinking that fitting a new oil seal inboard of the wheel bearing makes > this issue redundant, or is this not necessarily the case? > > Neil > BN6 > -- > ____________________ > Neil & Pam McDonald > > Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sgerow2 at gmail.com Tue Jun 25 14:13:04 2019 From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 13:13:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking rear hub flange Message-ID: Neil, Leaking axle seals are often caused by spun bearings. Use of too-thick Moss cardboard gaskets causes bearing to be insufficiently gripped (as specified in the manual). Heat from spun bearing causes seal to leak. Therefore replacing the seal is not sufficient unless you correct the gasket / spun bearing situation. For documentation, see: https://pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_bearing >>> From: Neil McDonald To: Healey List Cc: Bcc: Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 10:45:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking Rear Hub Flange A lot of list chatter about how to stop oil leaks at the rear hub flange by replacing the paper gasket or using goo of some sort. Am I right in thinking that fitting a new oil seal inboard of the wheel bearing makes this issue redundant, or is this not necessarily the case? Neil BN6 -- *Steve Gerow* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Jun 25 14:44:21 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 13:44:21 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Hub Nut Message-ID: Steve,? ? ? Two questions.? How did you tighten the hub nut?? What tools did you use?? OK, three questions.? Did you coat the gasket with anything?Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Jun 25 17:15:17 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 19:15:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] AH100 Ward Special Message-ID: <6b37fc45-5e7b-aa41-6acf-f0391b8a1049@earthlink.net> There's an article on Bring-A-Trailer about the Ward Special... https://bringatrailer.com/2019/06/24/fiberglass-spyder-to-aluminum-coupe-1955-austin-healey-100-ward-special Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Jun 25 19:40:44 2019 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 11:40:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] AH100 Ward Special In-Reply-To: <6b37fc45-5e7b-aa41-6acf-f0391b8a1049@earthlink.net> References: <6b37fc45-5e7b-aa41-6acf-f0391b8a1049@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <0672cb$5o0huc@icp-osb-irony-out3.iinet.net.au> ....I owned the car in Australia from 2003-2016 ? longer than any other owner. I can reasonably claim to have finally finished the car that had been a ?project? for nearly 40 years! I also did more road miles in it than any other owner. Any prospective purchasers are welcome to contact me! Peter Linn Brisbane Oz Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, 26 June 2019 9:28 AM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] AH100 Ward Special There's an article on Bring-A-Trailer about the Ward Special... https://bringatrailer.com/2019/06/24/fiberglass-spyder-to-aluminum-coupe-1955-austin-healey-100-ward-special Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Jun 25 23:10:44 2019 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 22:10:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] healey sighting In-Reply-To: <20190625172346.655.qmail@server278.com> References: <20190625172346.655.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <16979EE55A9D486892FEDC698268E091@LeonardPCPC> healeymanjim: In March of 2018, you reported seeing a blue/white Healey on Midwife. Could be the same one that was on Endeavor? Not in the same league with your 400,000 miles when it comes to miles on our Healeys (your e-mail 11/30/2018). However, after the trip to Rendezvous in Chalan, WA, I now have 220,525 miles on HBJ8L39031. Kinda proud of that. And - it earned second place in the 3000 BJ8 Phase 2 class at the car show. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "healeymanjim" To: Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 10:23 AM Subject: [Healeys] healey sighting > watching Endeavor sunday night and they had a blue/white BJ8 on that i > think i have seen in other british programs. From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jun 26 02:36:49 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 08:36:49 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> ??? I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque the hub nut down.? The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.? I'll never get it torqued down that way.? I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.? Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed it for!"? I am not convinced.? Go to the online Moss catalog and look at part number 384-907.? Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut. ???? Now look at the picture I have included in this email.? I want to install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake cable.? If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice something odd.? The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.? Only problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.? I have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least I thought I did.? The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.? I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.? I think it is going to need a blue wrench.? Of course I don't have one.???? Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.? Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.? So, I am looking for a emergency brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.? I'm willing to pay.? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E Brakes.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1920717 bytes Desc: not available URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Jun 26 03:20:15 2019 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 19:20:15 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right In-Reply-To: <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8ce437$6ja4vn@icp-osb-irony-out1.iinet.net.au> ...I had a similar problem when I wanted to use a Series II Landrover handbrake lever in my BN1 (because that?s what I had!) I simply cut off the tube that the shaft runs in & rewelded it on the other side of the ratchet plate. Cheers Peter Linn Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, 26 June 2019 7:11 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right ??? I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque the hub nut down.? The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.? I'll never get it torqued down that way.? I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.? Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed it for!"? I am not convinced.? Go to the online Moss catalog and look at part number 384-907.? Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut. ???? Now look at the picture I have included in this email.? I want to install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake cable.? If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice something odd.? The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.? Only problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.? I have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least I thought I did.? The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.? I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.? I think it is going to need a blue wrench.? Of course I don't have one. ???? Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.? Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.? So, I am looking for a emergency brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.? I'm willing to pay.? Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Wed Jun 26 06:54:09 2019 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 08:54:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right In-Reply-To: <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <288785692.3429038.1561553649408.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts. It nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the nuts back on, I will return it to Moss as defective. Regards, Charlie Schott ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael MacLean" To: "Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque the hub nut down. The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut. I'll never get it torqued down that way. I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs. Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed it for!" I am not convinced. Go to the online Moss catalog and look at part number 384-907. Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut. Now look at the picture I have included in this email. I want to install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake cable. If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice something odd. The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel. Only problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side. I have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least I thought I did. The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft. I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days. I think it is going to need a blue wrench. Of course I don't have one. Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight. Nothing is easy, nothing goes right. So, I am looking for a emergency brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture. I'm willing to pay. Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jun 26 10:32:19 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 16:32:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right In-Reply-To: <8ce437$6ja4vn@icp-osb-irony-out1.iinet.net.au> References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> <8ce437$6ja4vn@icp-osb-irony-out1.iinet.net.au> Message-ID: <1301398053.349616.1561566739423@mail.yahoo.com> Well, that is certainly an option.Mike M. On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 2:20:21 AM PDT, Peter & Veronica wrote: #yiv7709493619 #yiv7709493619 -- _filtered #yiv7709493619 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7709493619 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7709493619 #yiv7709493619 p.yiv7709493619MsoNormal, #yiv7709493619 li.yiv7709493619MsoNormal, #yiv7709493619 div.yiv7709493619MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7709493619 a:link, #yiv7709493619 span.yiv7709493619MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7709493619 a:visited, #yiv7709493619 span.yiv7709493619MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7709493619 .yiv7709493619MsoChpDefault {} _filtered #yiv7709493619 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv7709493619 div.yiv7709493619WordSection1 {}#yiv7709493619 ...I had a similar problem when I wanted to use a Series II Landrover handbrake lever in my BN1 (because that?s what I had!) I simply cut off the tube that the shaft runs in & rewelded it on the other side of the ratchet plate. ? Cheers ? Peter Linn ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, 26 June 2019 7:11 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right ? ??? I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque the hub nut down.? The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.? I'll never get it torqued down that way.? I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.? Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed it for!"? I am not convinced.? Go to the online Moss catalog and look at part number 384-907.? Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut. ???? Now look at the picture I have included in this email.? I want to install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake cable.? If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice something odd.? The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.? Only problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.? I have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least I thought I did.? The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.? I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.? I think it is going to need a blue wrench.? Of course I don't have one. ???? Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.? Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.? So, I am looking for a emergency brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.? I'm willing to pay.? Mike MacLean ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Jun 26 10:38:54 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 16:38:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right In-Reply-To: References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> <288785692.3429038.1561553649408.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> Message-ID: <1377398941.322699.1561567134966@mail.yahoo.com> That would be awesome!? Just not something you are going to see in the Sears tool department.Mike M On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 6:29:56 AM PDT, Michael Salter wrote: This is what you need. 1 end octagonal for BN2 and later the other hex for BN1.M On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 8:54 AM Charles Schott, wrote: I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts. It nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the nuts back on, I will return it to Moss as defective. Regards, Charlie Schott From: "Michael MacLean" To: "Healeys" Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right ??? I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque the hub nut down.? The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.? I'll never get it torqued down that way.? I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.? Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed it for!"? I am not convinced.? Go to the online Moss catalog and look at part number 384-907.? Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut. ???? Now look at the picture I have included in this email.? I want to install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake cable.? If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice something odd.? The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.? Only problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.? I have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least I thought I did.? The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.? I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.? I think it is going to need a blue wrench.? Of course I don't have one.???? Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.? Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.? So, I am looking for a emergency brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.? I'm willing to pay.? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Jun 26 19:33:33 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 21:33:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Message-ID: Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: oil_line_L_bracket.png Type: image/png Size: 155227 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Jun 26 20:11:47 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 19:11:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> Wow.? I've never seen that bracket on /any /Healey. Now, I gotta have one. bs On 6/26/2019 6:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo.? > It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the > firewall insulation in place.? On the other end has a P-clip that > holds the oil pressure gauge line. > > The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation > instructions.? The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, > one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. > > The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. > It looks like the P clip might be listed.? PCR0307 introduced at car > 13751, which is the first tri-carb. > > I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, > Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? > > Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one > in hand to get the dimensions off of. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Wed Jun 26 20:17:14 2019 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 12:17:14 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> References: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <60F39564C079486A8801A6CBD9D109CE@msiallinone> I echo the comments Bob. Just had a look at my BJ8 parts manual. No sign of it Graeme M From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2019 12:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Wow. I've never seen that bracket on any Healey. Now, I gotta have one. bs On 6/26/2019 6:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey3776 at gmail.com Wed Jun 26 20:53:46 2019 From: healey3776 at gmail.com (Melvin Brunet) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 22:53:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: <60F39564C079486A8801A6CBD9D109CE@msiallinone> References: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> <60F39564C079486A8801A6CBD9D109CE@msiallinone> Message-ID: <4590C650-FF46-4A26-B4A5-5A5F03B04928@gmail.com> I just checked my BJ8 and I have the bracket. My car number is HBJ8L39749 It came with the car. Mel Brunet Sent from my iPad > On Jun 26, 2019, at 10:17 PM, Graeme Molony wrote: > > I echo the comments Bob. > > Just had a look at my BJ8 parts manual. > > No sign of it > > Graeme M > > From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2019 12:11 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket > > Wow. I've never seen that bracket on any Healey. > > Now, I gotta have one. > > bs > > > >> On 6/26/2019 6:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >> Listers, >> >> I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. >> >> The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. >> >> The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. >> >> I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? >> >> Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Jun 26 21:35:53 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 20:35:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: <4590C650-FF46-4A26-B4A5-5A5F03B04928@gmail.com> References: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> <60F39564C079486A8801A6CBD9D109CE@msiallinone> <4590C650-FF46-4A26-B4A5-5A5F03B04928@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000001d52c99$6cf6cdf0$46e469d0$@sbcglobal.net> It is on my ?62 BT7. Simple to make if you need too. John Spaur From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Melvin Brunet Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 7:54 PM To: Graeme Molony Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket I just checked my BJ8 and I have the bracket. My car number is HBJ8L39749 It came with the car. Mel Brunet Sent from my iPad On Jun 26, 2019, at 10:17 PM, Graeme Molony > wrote: I echo the comments Bob. Just had a look at my BJ8 parts manual. No sign of it Graeme M From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2019 12:11 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Wow. I've never seen that bracket on any Healey. Now, I gotta have one. bs On 6/26/2019 6:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar _____ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey3776 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Wed Jun 26 21:54:44 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 20:54:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <03b101d52c9c$10715200$3153f600$@roadrunner.com> I saw one on another Healey and fabricated one for mine. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 6:34 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Jun 26 22:14:40 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 21:14:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have one on my car. Would you like demensions and more photos? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 6:35 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It > attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall > insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil > pressure gauge line. > > The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation > instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, > one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. > > The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. > It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car > 13751, which is the first tri-carb. > > I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, > Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? > > Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one > in hand to get the dimensions off of. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chemainuskid at gmail.com Wed Jun 26 22:29:55 2019 From: chemainuskid at gmail.com (Don Manning) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 21:29:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have you considered asking Kent Lambert if he has any? He is in Hood River, Oregon. Don Manning Chemainus, B.C. On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 9:15 PM i erbs wrote: > I have one on my car. Would you like demensions and more photos? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 6:35 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > >> Listers, >> >> I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It >> attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall >> insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil >> pressure gauge line. >> >> The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation >> instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, >> one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. >> >> The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. >> It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car >> 13751, which is the first tri-carb. >> >> I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, >> Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? >> >> Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one >> in hand to get the dimensions off of. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chemainuskid at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Jun 27 02:38:25 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 04:38:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9d7ff71e-ccb8-49c2-0c6c-957a4191ecd0@earthlink.net> Ira, Yes, I asked Roger Moment who suggested I ask Kent (he bought Bill Bolton's parts) and Kent suggested that I talk to Bob Wilson, also in Oregon. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 6/27/19 12:29 AM, Don Manning wrote: > Have you considered ?asking Kent Lambert if he has any?? He is in Hood > River, Oregon. > > Don Manning > Chemainus, B.C. > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 9:15 PM i erbs > wrote: > > I have one on my car. Would you like demensions and more photos? > > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 6:35 PM Bob Haskell > wrote: > > Listers, > > I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached > photo.? It > attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the > firewall > insulation in place.? On the other end has a P-clip that holds > the oil > pressure gauge line. > > The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation > instructions.? The instructions have two photos that show the > bracket, > one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. > > The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I > have. > It looks like the P clip might be listed.? PCR0307 introduced at > car > 13751, which is the first tri-carb. > > I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey > Surgeons, > Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck.? Suggestions? > > Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to > have one > in hand to get the dimensions off of. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chemainuskid at gmail.com > From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jun 27 06:06:11 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 08:06:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Oil line bracket Message-ID: <21FC1BD3-D99C-4BD9-B150-F2066727E5F0@aol.com> Bob I have several should you still need one. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4722.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 112197 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From tfsbj7 at gmail.com Thu Jun 27 06:32:19 2019 From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 08:32:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> References: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <017001d52ce4$690af8b0$3b20ea10$@gmail.com> I have an unmodified/unrestored late BJ8. The bracket is on my car. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 10:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Wow. I've never seen that bracket on any Healey. Now, I gotta have one. bs On 6/26/2019 6:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Jun 27 06:40:46 2019 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 13:40:46 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> References: <3e83639f-ad49-4dd4-2e73-c9a936f5495b@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0BB1438C-737F-437C-83E0-DD961CA28031@gmail.com> Hey Bob. It seems TomF has been surreptitiously retrieving them. ? Alan - from my iPad > On 27 Jun 2019, at 03:11, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Wow. I've never seen that bracket on any Healey. > > Now, I gotta have one. > > bs > > > >> On 6/26/2019 6:33 PM, Bob Haskell wrote: >> Listers, >> >> I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. >> >> The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. >> >> The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. >> >> I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? >> >> Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Jun 27 07:32:37 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 09:32:37 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Secrets Message-ID: <20676A81-57AB-4BCE-A50B-97F1FBA3F23C@aol.com> Long lost archival photo of a Healey Marine special secret project to provide a Cris-Craft quality hard rear tonneau for the 100-Six. For those familiar with the Healey Marine Sports Boat you will see similar design themes. Ok folks just kidding. It?s really just the latest project in the garage that I?m working on with my brother in law. This car was previously raced and in particular was involved in the Hershey Hill Climb many decades ago in Hershey Pennsylvania. Hope everyone is having a fun, interesting day! Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4714.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 120407 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From alfuller194 at gmail.com Thu Jun 27 10:09:15 2019 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 12:09:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b6401d52d02$ab313150$019393f0$@gmail.com> Hi Bob - I happen to have that line on my bench [due to ongoing leak at the gauge...]. I will take pictures with measurements and post shortly. Al Fuller -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 9:34 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From alfuller194 at gmail.com Thu Jun 27 10:27:09 2019 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 12:27:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0b6601d52d05$2b110600$81331200$@gmail.com> Bob - pictures of the line and bracket (with measurements) can be access at the link below. FWIW, this is from a friend's BJ-8... https://www.dropbox.com/sh/cbuc0wj2ohp346x/AAAp_XrYpT4nHmO04fGVsLR2a?dl=0 I will leave the pictures there for a while, but will need to take them down to conserve space at some point, so if you need them, you should save them to your own machine... Al Fuller -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 9:34 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] wtb: oil line L-shaped bracket Listers, I'm looking for the L-shaped bracket pictured in the attached photo. It attaches to the firewall using one of the screws that holds the firewall insulation in place. On the other end has a P-clip that holds the oil pressure gauge line. The photo is from one of Moss' firewall insulation installation instructions. The instructions have two photos that show the bracket, one for a BN7 MkII and one BJ8. The bracket is not shown or listed in the factory parts manual I have. It looks like the P clip might be listed. PCR0307 introduced at car 13751, which is the first tri-carb. I've checked with a few of the usual suspects (BSC, Healey Surgeons, Kilmartin, AH Spares) and haven't had any luck. Suggestions? Looks like it would be easy enough to make, but would like to have one in hand to get the dimensions off of. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Jun 27 12:09:50 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 11:09:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Good News (sorta) Message-ID: <11d5349c-9a09-e49e-c410-206acd8faaf9@comcast.net> Nice Healey easter egg: https://www.nytimes.com/2019/06/27/business/car-collectors-generation-x.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage From pensenwood at aol.com Thu Jun 27 14:34:29 2019 From: pensenwood at aol.com (Robert Pense) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 16:34:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Same idea Message-ID: <51A4D35A-F630-44D3-84BF-67FFE8551D4F@aol.com> Foam and foil. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0964.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 260154 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPad From pensenwood at aol.com Thu Jun 27 14:35:54 2019 From: pensenwood at aol.com (Robert Pense) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 16:35:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Another Message-ID: <6066DCCC-AD79-441F-9714-1F003B535CA0@aol.com> -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1457.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 158332 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPad From michel.murphy at gmail.com Thu Jun 27 17:32:41 2019 From: michel.murphy at gmail.com (Michel Murphy) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 19:32:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Carburettor help Message-ID: Hi everyone, I am at the point where I'm trying to tune my carburetters for my BJ7. The engine was rebuilt along with the carbs. I set up the carbs as per the SU workshop manual to pre-tuning setting: throttle screw backed off, turned jet adjusting nut/screw down two turns and turn the fast-idle adjusting screw until they are well clear of the cam. The car starts well enough without choke engaged, but the engine idles at 2000 RPM even after left running for 5-10 minutes. The rear carb doesn't seem to have any suction unlike the front carb (I put my hand in front of the carb for this test). Any ideas why the rear carb does not have any noticeable suction? I suspect the high idle is due to rear carb not functioning properly. Any help would be appreciated. Regards, Mike '63 BJ7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Thu Jun 27 17:54:13 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2019 16:54:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Carburettor help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Loosen the linkage between the carbs so they work indepently. The slow the idle speed down on the front carb and bring the rear one up until they are equal. If that will not fix it then if you removed the throttle plates they were not set correctly and you will need to remove the carbs to re set the throttle plate with the idle screw backed off. Make sure the the plates are sealing off completely. If not loosen the shaft screws and move the plate until they almost completely seal all the way around. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michel Murphy Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2019 4:32 PM To: Healey List Subject: [Healeys] Carburettor help Hi everyone, I am at the point where I'm trying to tune my carburetters for my BJ7. The engine was rebuilt along with the carbs. I set up the carbs as per the SU workshop manual to pre-tuning setting: throttle screw backed off, turned jet adjusting nut/screw down two turns and turn the fast-idle adjusting screw until they are well clear of the cam. The car starts well enough without choke engaged, but the engine idles at 2000 RPM even after left running for 5-10 minutes. The rear carb doesn't seem to have any suction unlike the front carb (I put my hand in front of the carb for this test). Any ideas why the rear carb does not have any noticeable suction? I suspect the high idle is due to rear carb not functioning properly. Any help would be appreciated. Regards, Mike '63 BJ7 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Fri Jun 28 08:12:13 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 10:12:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking rear hub flange In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Steve-- In light of your email of yesterday telling me you felt that a paper gasket measuring .015" was too thick to provide sufficient grip between the abutment shoulder and hub flange to prfevent a spun bearing, this morning I removed the left axle shaft to check the amount of protrusion of the outer race beyond the face of the Moss gasket that I recently installed. I was able to pass a .004" feeler leaf--but no more--between the face of the hub bearing's outer race and the face of the hub plus paper gasket, which is within the specification. Maybe this is due to the paper gasket's having already been under compression since I installed it last week, and do you think that perhaps this critical measurement needs to be made after one assembly/disassembly of the axle shaft to the hub, as obviously the gasket is going to compress a bit under torquing? BTW I measured a new, spare paper gasket that came along with the one installed and it is .014" thick. In any case thanks for focusing on this issue and I feel better knowing that apparently all is okay. Best--Michael Oritt On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 5:22 PM Michael Oritt wrote: > Steve-- > > I'm going to check my setup tomorrow morning. I'm also going to see if I > can find my expensive micrometer versus the cheap HF one.... Thanks in any > case for the tip. > > Bear--Michael > > On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 3:21 PM Steve Gerow wrote: > >> OK, that's too thick and will allow the bearing to spin. Per my >> experiments it needs to be .003" - .004" in order to work. I made mine out >> of copier paper, using the Moss as a pattern. >> >> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 8:48 AM Michael Oritt >> wrote: >> >>> Steve-- >>> >>> The new paper gasket from Moss mike's to about .015" >>> >>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 11:07 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>> >>>> Maybe they've thinned it down. I reported my findings to Michael Grant, >>>> QA Mgr at Moss at the time (since retired). >>>> >>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 6:04 PM Michael Oritt >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> Steve-- >>>>> >>>>> I began seeing a slightly oily "footprint" under my left rear tire a >>>>> few weeks ago and figured I would have to replace the lip seal. However >>>>> when I removed the axle I found that there was no paper gasket between the >>>>> axle flange and the hub, nor any trace of one, nor was there an O ring! >>>>> >>>>> My memory is not the best but i know that in the 15 or so years and >>>>> 60K miles since the car was professionally restored I have never pulled an >>>>> axle on nor had any leaks from either rear hub. If there was a paper >>>>> gasket or O ring or sealant it was all gone and the only thing providing >>>>> any seal at all was the metal-to-metal contact >>>>> >>>>> After cleaning everything up and putting in an O ring and paper gasket >>>>> coated with hylomar I thought that I had better check the oil level as I >>>>> expected it to be down from the leak. Amazingly the oil level was almost >>>>> up to the very top with no need to add any at all. So I closed everything >>>>> up and as I said in my previous post I have probably driven 30-50 miles >>>>> since with no leak. >>>>> >>>>> BTW the paper gasket that Moss supplies is very thin though I did not >>>>> mike it. I have a spare and will do so tomorrow and will let you know. >>>>> >>>>> Best--Michael >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> IO >>>>> >>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 5:07 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> ...or before any trips. How thick was the old gasket you removed? >>>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Steve Gerow >>>>>> wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>>> What started me thinking was I had leaking seal and a spun bearing. >>>>>>> Spoke with Tom Monaco (tom's toys) and he said he'd replaced 80+ of those >>>>>>> bearings which didn't sound right to me. He said the heat from the spun >>>>>>> bearing ate the seal. So I performed the experiment shown in my gallery pix >>>>>>> and reviewed the section in the manual - both of which made it obvious what >>>>>>> was happening. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Your fix may last for a while or forever - dunno. Did you have to >>>>>>> freeze the bearing and heat the hub to install the bearing? If so it'll >>>>>>> probably stay for a while. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Might just want to budget time to check it out after the summer >>>>>>> driving season. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 1:56 PM Michael Oritt < >>>>>>> michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> BTW just last week i put in a Moss paper gasket and hylomar to stop >>>>>>>> a slight leak at the flange. Not recognizing the issue I did not think to >>>>>>>> check clearance. I have driven the car perhaps 25-30 miles since with no >>>>>>>> problem or further leakage so I guess I am asking whether you think the >>>>>>>> issue would by now have presented itself if the gasket were clamping the >>>>>>>> bearing race? Or do I need to tear everything apart again? >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Best--Michael >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 4:51 PM Michael Oritt < >>>>>>>> michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Steve-- >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Later 100's such as mine have the same rear axle, etc. so this >>>>>>>>> would not be unique to 6 cylinder cars. In any case I think I get the >>>>>>>>> picture.... >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Thanks--Michael >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 4:43 PM Steve Gerow >>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Also maybe this problem isn't occurring on the 100s. >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019, 1:28 PM Michael Oritt < >>>>>>>>>> michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Steve-- >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Offlist.... Please explain why a too-thick paper gasket would >>>>>>>>>>> cause the bearing to spin? Wouldn't it simply create more space between >>>>>>>>>>> the inner face of the axle shaft flange and the outer face of the hub, >>>>>>>>>>> which in any case should ride correctly on the end of the axle >>>>>>>>>>> housing/bearing surface regardless? Or does it somehow clamp the inner >>>>>>>>>>> race of the hub bearing, but if so how and why? >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> Best--Michael >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 4:13 PM Steve Gerow >>>>>>>>>>> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Neil, >>>>>>>>>>>> Leaking axle seals are often caused by spun bearings. Use of >>>>>>>>>>>> too-thick Moss cardboard gaskets causes bearing to be insufficiently >>>>>>>>>>>> gripped (as specified in the manual). Heat from spun bearing causes seal to >>>>>>>>>>>> leak. Therefore replacing the seal is not sufficient unless you correct the >>>>>>>>>>>> gasket / spun bearing situation. >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> For documentation, see: >>>>>>>>>>>> https://pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_bearing >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>> >>>>>>>>>>>> From: Neil McDonald >>>>>>>>>>>> To: Healey List >>>>>>>>>>>> Cc: >>>>>>>>>>>> Bcc: >>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 10:45:57 -0700 >>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [Healeys] Leaking Rear Hub Flange >>>>>>>>>>>> A lot of list chatter about how to stop oil leaks at the rear >>>>>>>>>>>> hub flange by replacing the paper gasket or using goo of some sort. Am I >>>>>>>>>>>> right in thinking that fitting a new oil seal inboard of the wheel bearing >>>>>>>>>>>> makes this issue redundant, or is this not necessarily the case? >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Neil >>>>>>>>>>>> BN6 >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> *Steve Gerow* >>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>>>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>>>>>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>>>>>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>>>>>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> *Steve* >>>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -- >>>>>> *Steve* >>>>>> >>>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> *Steve* >>>> >>> >> >> -- >> *Steve* >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 28 08:16:34 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 07:16:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SU Burlen contact Message-ID: <000001d52dbc$17f80750$47e815f0$@sbcglobal.net> Does anyone have an email address for an actual person at Burlen? Customer service has not answered my emails. Thank you, John Spaur San Jose, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Fri Jun 28 13:55:23 2019 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 15:55:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators Message-ID: I've just had my Trafficators apart again because the left hand signal didn?t seem to be maintaining contact. It?s working well now, but it is a fiendish little device, and getting the lever back in with all the appropriate springs in place is not easy?sort of like watch repair. Anyway, I was looking at the original Lucas literature and it got me to wondering why we call it a ?Trafficator?. Seems that the trafficators were the little flip-up semaphore signals made by Lucas, and usually paired with what they called the ?self cancelling switch assembly??which is what we Healey people now call a trafficator. I guess, since they were originally paired, ?trafficator? slips off the tongue more easily than "self cancelling switch assembly? ! Hoping I don?t have to take that thing apart again for a long time? Stephen, BJ8 From roggrace at telus.net Fri Jun 28 14:54:26 2019 From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 14:54:26 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks Message-ID: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> '67 BJ8Wondering what the more experienced listers advocate to stop the squeeks and groans for the rear end rubber bushes onspring shackles, shocks, tramp bar etc.I have used: dry graphite spray .. messy eliminates the noises but lasts a short time onlysilicon spray - same story but not as messy ptfe spray made by WD40 - also works for a short time.Given that these bushes are rubber am reluctant to use any petoleum products like WD40 etc50 yeras ago in my TR3 days used to squirt brake fluid all over them that was a sucessful technique.These days am more sensitive about my paint work ... !Is there a particular bush that is the culprit ?Suggestions please.rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Fri Jun 28 16:00:49 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 18:00:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <085901d52dfc$f412f7f0$dc38e7d0$@rr.com> Stephen, I gave up trying to get people to quit calling the assembly a "trafficator". Somewhere along the line years ago, I picked up the term "mayonet" for the same thing but I can't find the source for that now. Google is no help. If you can't beat, 'em, join 'em..... Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators I've just had my Trafficators apart again because the left hand signal didn?t seem to be maintaining contact. It?s working well now, but it is a fiendish little device, and getting the lever back in with all the appropriate springs in place is not easy?sort of like watch repair. Anyway, I was looking at the original Lucas literature and it got me to wondering why we call it a ?Trafficator?. Seems that the trafficators were the little flip-up semaphore signals made by Lucas, and usually paired with what they called the ?self cancelling switch assembly??which is what we Healey people now call a trafficator. I guess, since they were originally paired, ?trafficator? slips off the tongue more easily than "self cancelling switch assembly? ! Hoping I don?t have to take that thing apart again for a long time? Stephen, BJ8 From fredwescoe at gmail.com Fri Jun 28 16:27:31 2019 From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 18:27:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators In-Reply-To: <085901d52dfc$f412f7f0$dc38e7d0$@rr.com> References: <085901d52dfc$f412f7f0$dc38e7d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: Steve, I have also always called "it" a "mayonet". The thing I have always called the "traficator" was always the swing out directional arm which can still be found on London cabs. Fred 66 BJ8 On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 6:00 PM BJ8Healeys wrote: > Stephen, I gave up trying to get people to quit calling the assembly a > "trafficator". Somewhere along the line years ago, I picked up the term > "mayonet" for the same thing but I can't find the source for that now. > Google is no help. If you can't beat, 'em, join 'em..... > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Stephen Hutchings > Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 3:55 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators > > I've just had my Trafficators apart again because the left hand signal > didn?t seem to be maintaining contact. It?s working well now, but it is a > fiendish little device, and getting the lever back in with all the > appropriate springs in place is not easy?sort of like watch repair. > > Anyway, I was looking at the original Lucas literature and it got me to > wondering why we call it a ?Trafficator?. Seems that the trafficators were > the little flip-up semaphore signals made by Lucas, and usually paired with > what they called the ?self cancelling switch assembly??which is what we > Healey people now call a trafficator. > > I guess, since they were originally paired, ?trafficator? slips off the > tongue more easily than "self cancelling switch assembly? ! > > Hoping I don?t have to take that thing apart again for a long time? > > Stephen, BJ8 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Fri Jun 28 16:32:35 2019 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 18:32:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators In-Reply-To: References: <085901d52dfc$f412f7f0$dc38e7d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <46F10053-4B93-4E01-8079-246CCA3AA194@mac.com> Yep, it is not properly called a trafficator. When I wrote my restoration article about it years ago, I had read something (I don?t recall what) that referred to it as a ?control head.? Lin Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 28, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote: > > Steve, > > I have also always called "it" a "mayonet". The thing I have always called the "traficator" was always the swing out directional arm which can still be found on London cabs. > > Fred > 66 BJ8 > >> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 6:00 PM BJ8Healeys wrote: >> Stephen, I gave up trying to get people to quit calling the assembly a "trafficator". Somewhere along the line years ago, I picked up the term "mayonet" for the same thing but I can't find the source for that now. Google is no help. If you can't beat, 'em, join 'em..... >> >> Steve Byers >> HBJ8L/36666 >> BJ8 Registry >> AHCA Delegate at Large >> Havelock, NC >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings >> Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 3:55 PM >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators >> >> I've just had my Trafficators apart again because the left hand signal didn?t seem to be maintaining contact. It?s working well now, but it is a fiendish little device, and getting the lever back in with all the appropriate springs in place is not easy?sort of like watch repair. >> >> Anyway, I was looking at the original Lucas literature and it got me to wondering why we call it a ?Trafficator?. Seems that the trafficators were the little flip-up semaphore signals made by Lucas, and usually paired with what they called the ?self cancelling switch assembly??which is what we Healey people now call a trafficator. >> >> I guess, since they were originally paired, ?trafficator? slips off the tongue more easily than "self cancelling switch assembly? ! >> >> Hoping I don?t have to take that thing apart again for a long time? >> >> Stephen, BJ8 >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Fri Jun 28 16:45:07 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 08:45:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators In-Reply-To: References: <085901d52dfc$f412f7f0$dc38e7d0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <00b001d52e03$23ce9b60$6b6bd220$@tpg.com.au> Hello I have trafficators (or semaphores) on our ?48 Healey Duncan and indicators on the 100 BN3. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Wescoe Sent: Saturday, 29 June 2019 8:28 AM To: BJ8Healeys Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trafficators Steve, I have also always called "it" a "mayonet". The thing I have always called the "traficator" was always the swing out directional arm which can still be found on London cabs. Fred 66 BJ8 On Fri, Jun 28, 2019 at 6:00 PM BJ8Healeys wrote: Stephen, I gave up trying to get people to quit calling the assembly a "trafficator". Somewhere along the line years ago, I picked up the term "mayonet" for the same thing but I can't find the source for that now. Google is no help. If you can't beat, 'em, join 'em..... Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators I've just had my Trafficators apart again because the left hand signal didn?t seem to be maintaining contact. It?s working well now, but it is a fiendish little device, and getting the lever back in with all the appropriate springs in place is not easy?sort of like watch repair. Anyway, I was looking at the original Lucas literature and it got me to wondering why we call it a ?Trafficator?. Seems that the trafficators were the little flip-up semaphore signals made by Lucas, and usually paired with what they called the ?self cancelling switch assembly??which is what we Healey people now call a trafficator. I guess, since they were originally paired, ?trafficator? slips off the tongue more easily than "self cancelling switch assembly? ! Hoping I don?t have to take that thing apart again for a long time? Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe at gmail.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jun 28 18:08:20 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 17:08:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates Message-ID: I recently acquired a set of these: https://tomsimport.com/category/new-parts/front-shock-plate/ I'm not in immediate danger of installing them yet, but I'm starting to plan the operation.? I'll cut off the outer part of the mounts clean, elongate the holes, install the plates and weld the end sections back on.? My question, for anyone who's (successfully) done this--not necessarily the welding part--is: How did you remove the captive nuts and any remnants of the welds that held them?? It seems to me, if you don't clean off the welds then then plates won't sit flat on the underside of the shock mounts, and strength would be diminished.? I have no proof, but intuitively it seems these plates would strengthen the mounts, as the tension load on the four bolts would be spread across the plates--and a greater area of the mounts--instead of just being applied to the captive nuts. Bob From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Jun 28 18:47:01 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 20:47:01 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob If memory serves me correctly you will not have much trouble with the nuts. Captive is not what I would call the nuts used to secure the shocks and shock buffer to the top plate. There is not a cage or spot welds on the flats of the nuts. I believe they are just resistance welded to the bottom surface of the top plate and the nuts will part ways with the plate fairly easily. Before someone figured out to adjust the camber with these plates we used to fix the stripped or missing shock mounting nuts by inserting a ? inch steel plate with predrilled and threaded holes in the same location. It was easier than cutting off the entire top plate and rewelding it. Only had to cut the outboard edge off, insert plate and reweld. This was a long time ago, like 50 years. Feeling a bit old right now! Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Bob Spidell Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 8:09 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates I recently acquired a set of these: https://tomsimport.com/category/new-parts/front-shock-plate/ I'm not in immediate danger of installing them yet, but I'm starting to plan the operation.? I'll cut off the outer part of the mounts clean, elongate the holes, install the plates and weld the end sections back on.? My question, for anyone who's (successfully) done this--not necessarily the welding part--is: How did you remove the captive nuts and any remnants of the welds that held them?? It seems to me, if you don't clean off the welds then then plates won't sit flat on the underside of the shock mounts, and strength would be diminished.? I have no proof, but intuitively it seems these plates would strengthen the mounts, as the tension load on the four bolts would be spread across the plates--and a greater area of the mounts--instead of just being applied to the captive nuts. Bob -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Jun 28 18:53:59 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 17:53:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, Perry. At the risk of going to the well too many times, how much movement of the shock changes camber; e.g.? each sixteenth of a inch of inboard movement of the shock creates 2deg positive camber change (just an example; I have no idea what the relation would be)? Bob On 6/28/2019 5:47 PM, Perry wrote: > > Bob > > If memory serves me correctly you will not have much trouble with the > nuts.? Captive is not what I would call the nuts used to secure the > shocks and shock buffer to the top plate. ?There is not a cage or spot > welds on the flats of the nuts. ?I believe they are just resistance > welded to the bottom surface of the top plate and the nuts will part > ways with the plate fairly easily. > > Before someone figured out to adjust the camber with these plates we > used to fix the stripped or missing shock mounting nuts by inserting a > ? inch steel plate with predrilled and threaded holes in the same > location. It was easier than cutting off the entire top plate and > rewelding it. Only had to cut the outboard edge off, insert plate and > reweld. > > This was a long time ago, like 50 years. Feeling a bit old right now! > > Perry > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > *From: *Bob Spidell > *Sent: *Friday, June 28, 2019 8:09 PM > *To: *Healeys > *Subject: *[Healeys] Front Shock Camber Plates > > I recently acquired a set of these: > > https://tomsimport.com/category/new-parts/front-shock-plate/ > > I'm not in immediate danger of installing them yet, but I'm starting to > > plan the operation.? I'll cut off the outer part of the mounts clean, > > elongate the holes, install the plates and weld the end sections back > > on.? My question, for anyone who's (successfully) done this--not > > necessarily the welding part--is: How did you remove the captive nuts > > and any remnants of the welds that held them?? It seems to me, if you > > don't clean off the welds then then plates won't sit flat on the > > underside of the shock mounts, and strength would be diminished.? I have > > no proof, but intuitively it seems these plates would strengthen the > > mounts, as the tension load on the four bolts would be spread across the > > plates--and a greater area of the mounts--instead of just being applied > > to the captive nuts. > > Bob > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Jun 28 20:19:10 2019 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 22:19:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005501d52e21$09d37870$1d7a6950$@sympatico.ca> I have "flip up semaphore signals" on my '35 MG, and if you think the Healey trafficator is a fiddle, you should try working on those. I have had both apart and I will tackle the Healey unit any day of the week over those fiddley old things on the MG. After fixing the MG trafficators I commented to someone, I can't recall who, that it is almost inconceivable that the country that produced them, 4 years later produced the Spitfire. My friend pointed out that the Spitfire wasn't expected to last more than a few weeks either. Cheers, Mirek -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Hutchings Sent: June-28-19 3:55 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Trafficators I've just had my Trafficators apart again because the left hand signal didn?t seem to be maintaining contact. It?s working well now, but it is a fiendish little device, and getting the lever back in with all the appropriate springs in place is not easy?sort of like watch repair. Anyway, I was looking at the original Lucas literature and it got me to wondering why we call it a ?Trafficator?. Seems that the trafficators were the little flip-up semaphore signals made by Lucas, and usually paired with what they called the ?self cancelling switch assembly??which is what we Healey people now call a trafficator. I guess, since they were originally paired, ?trafficator? slips off the tongue more easily than "self cancelling switch assembly? ! Hoping I don?t have to take that thing apart again for a long time? Stephen, BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Jun 28 20:22:26 2019 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 22:22:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks In-Reply-To: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <005601d52e21$7ecde980$7c69bc80$@sympatico.ca> I have the same issue on my 60 BT7 ? I?d love to hear suggestions. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: June-28-19 4:54 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks '67 BJ8 Wondering what the more experienced listers advocate to stop the squeeks and groans for the rear end rubber bushes on spring shackles, shocks, tramp bar etc. I have used: dry graphite spray .. messy eliminates the noises but lasts a short time only silicon spray - same story but not as messy ptfe spray made by WD40 - also works for a short time. Given that these bushes are rubber am reluctant to use any petoleum products like WD40 etc 50 yeras ago in my TR3 days used to squirt brake fluid all over them that was a sucessful technique. These days am more sensitive about my paint work ... ! Is there a particular bush that is the culprit ? Suggestions please. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Jun 28 23:13:22 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 28 Jun 2019 22:13:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks In-Reply-To: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <000001d52e39$603f9190$20beb4b0$@sbcglobal.net> ?62 BT7 Anti-seize compound. JS From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 1:54 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks '67 BJ8 Wondering what the more experienced listers advocate to stop the squeeks and groans for the rear end rubber bushes on spring shackles, shocks, tramp bar etc. I have used: dry graphite spray .. messy eliminates the noises but lasts a short time only silicon spray - same story but not as messy ptfe spray made by WD40 - also works for a short time. Given that these bushes are rubber am reluctant to use any petoleum products like WD40 etc 50 yeras ago in my TR3 days used to squirt brake fluid all over them that was a sucessful technique. These days am more sensitive about my paint work ... ! Is there a particular bush that is the culprit ? Suggestions please. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jun 29 00:00:55 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 06:00:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brake Caliper Assembly References: <1191273035.572123.1561788055119.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1191273035.572123.1561788055119@mail.yahoo.com> I am converting my BN2 to a front disc brake setup during the restoration.? One of the listers here was kind enough to sell me an almost complete setup for the job.? The only thing not included were the rotors and a few fasteners.? The calipers are cleaned, un-assembled with all new parts.? This is an early 3000 setup.? I already changed the size of the rear slave cylinders for correct balance and bought 3000 extended splined hubs for the front.? Can someone point me in the direction of some kind of instruction in assembling the calipers.? Having only literature for Sprites and 4 cylinder cars, I am kind of at a loss here.? Not a lot of parts, but quite new to putting calipers together.? I am sure there are some caveats that apply to this task.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Sat Jun 29 01:58:16 2019 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 17:58:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brake Caliper Assembly In-Reply-To: <1191273035.572123.1561788055119@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1191273035.572123.1561788055119.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1191273035.572123.1561788055119@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000f01d52e50$6a063230$3e129690$@com.au> Mike Have them overhauled and assembled by a brake shop, they know what they are doing and will do the job properly John Rowe QLd Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, 29 June 2019 4:01 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brake Caliper Assembly I am converting my BN2 to a front disc brake setup during the restoration. One of the listers here was kind enough to sell me an almost complete setup for the job. The only thing not included were the rotors and a few fasteners. The calipers are cleaned, un-assembled with all new parts. This is an early 3000 setup. I already changed the size of the rear slave cylinders for correct balance and bought 3000 extended splined hubs for the front. Can someone point me in the direction of some kind of instruction in assembling the calipers. Having only literature for Sprites and 4 cylinder cars, I am kind of at a loss here. Not a lot of parts, but quite new to putting calipers together. I am sure there are some caveats that apply to this task. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jun 29 06:43:30 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 12:43:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Brake Hoses References: <672899008.660868.1561812210695.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <672899008.660868.1561812210695@mail.yahoo.com> Am I wrong in assuming that I need braided steel flexible brake hoses for a 3000 Healey for the disc brake conversion of my BN2?? So, if I want stainless hoses for all three locations, I will need a BN2 version for the rear axle?? Does this mean I have to buy two different sets because of my disc brake conversion, or will the 3000 set be OK for for front and rear?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sat Jun 29 06:44:54 2019 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 08:44:54 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks In-Reply-To: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> References: <1899736099.41819159.1561755266440.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net> Message-ID: <002101d52e78$74164f30$5c42ed90$@gmail.com> Roger: Had the same problem a few years ago. I think it was because I waded through some high water and put the car in storage before shipping to Florida. At any rate, finally, we jacked up the car and the leaf springs separately. Then removed the bolts from the shackles with a drift pin to keep them in position and greased the bolts. Then greased the end of the drift pint so that it was lubing the inside while tapping slowly on the bolt which was doing the same greasing. That was 4 years ago in hot humid Florida and no squeaks yet. Bob Begani 67 BJ8 From: Healeys On Behalf Of Roger Grace Sent: Friday, June 28, 2019 4:54 PM To: Subject: [Healeys] Rear End Squeaks '67 BJ8 Wondering what the more experienced listers advocate to stop the squeeks and groans for the rear end rubber bushes on spring shackles, shocks, tramp bar etc. I have used: dry graphite spray .. messy eliminates the noises but lasts a short time only silicon spray - same story but not as messy ptfe spray made by WD40 - also works for a short time. Given that these bushes are rubber am reluctant to use any petoleum products like WD40 etc 50 yeras ago in my TR3 days used to squirt brake fluid all over them that was a sucessful technique. These days am more sensitive about my paint work ... ! Is there a particular bush that is the culprit ? Suggestions please. rg -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From flyhihealey at gmail.com Sat Jun 29 08:20:26 2019 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 10:20:26 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news Message-ID: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com> Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as these were original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt. Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news. But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before. The bad news. It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator. I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom. WD 67 BJ8 Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Jun 29 09:40:08 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 08:40:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news In-Reply-To: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com> References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator.? My guess would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating.? I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it.? Or some combination of the three.? If you end up replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation. Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated.? If you have good pressure that rules out the pump.? If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings. I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing). Bob ps.? My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost. On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote: > > Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed > tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. > Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and > interrupter switch as these were original parts and with close to 200K > on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off > regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two > years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt. > > Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. *_The good news_*_._ But it > takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and > ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like > before.*_The bad news_*. It disengages normally as before. Flip, > depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator. > > I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but > am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom. > > WD?? ??67 BJ8 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sat Jun 29 10:02:52 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 09:02:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Need trailer in Portland,OR Message-ID: Anyone in the area have a car trailer I can borrow for 4-5 days? Ira Erbs Portland, OR typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Sat Jun 29 10:15:23 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 12:15:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Brake Hoses In-Reply-To: <672899008.660868.1561812210695@mail.yahoo.com> References: <672899008.660868.1561812210695.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <672899008.660868.1561812210695@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, The Moss part number for the rear brake hose is the same for the BN1, BN2, BN4, BT7, BJ7, BJ8. so if you are using a stainless set from one of those cars, you should be good. Best regards. Rick Neville On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:46 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > Am I wrong in assuming that I need braided steel flexible brake hoses for > a 3000 Healey for the disc brake conversion of my BN2? So, if I want > stainless hoses for all three locations, I will need a BN2 version for the > rear axle? Does this mean I have to buy two different sets because of my > disc brake conversion, or will the 3000 set be OK for for front and rear? > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cjerryadams at yahoo.com Sat Jun 29 12:38:01 2019 From: cjerryadams at yahoo.com (cjerryadams at yahoo.com) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 13:38:01 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Leaking rear hub flange In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <328AC2A6-1565-44E8-B5CB-663475F446F2@yahoo.com> I used a grocery paper sack to make a gasket with. That was 45 years ago before I knew of sources. All BMC dealers had quit selling Healey parts by then. Gasket still in place no leaks no problem. Jerry BN2 Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 28, 2019, at 9:12 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > Steve-- > > In light of your email of yesterday telling me you felt that a paper gasket measuring .015" was too thick to provide sufficient grip between the abutment shoulder and hub flange to prfevent a spun bearing, this morning I removed the left axle shaft to check the amount of protrusion of the outer race beyond the face of the Moss gasket that I recently installed. I was able to pass a .004" feeler leaf--but no more--between the face of the hub bearing's outer race and the face of the hub plus paper gasket, which is within the specification. > > Maybe this is due to the paper gasket's having already been under compression since I installed it last week, and do you think that perhaps this critical measurement needs to be made after one assembly/disassembly of the axle shaft to the hub, as obviously the gasket is going to compress a bit under torquing? > > BTW I measured a new, spare paper gasket that came along with the one installed and it is .014" thick. In any case thanks for focusing on this issue and I feel better knowing that apparently all is okay. > > Best--Michael Oritt > >> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 5:22 PM Michael Oritt wrote: >> Steve-- >> >> I'm going to check my setup tomorrow morning. I'm also going to see if I can find my expensive micrometer versus the cheap HF one.... Thanks in any case for the tip. >> >> Bear--Michael >> >>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 3:21 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>> OK, that's too thick and will allow the bearing to spin. Per my experiments it needs to be .003" - .004" in order to work. I made mine out of copier paper, using the Moss as a pattern. >>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019 at 8:48 AM Michael Oritt wrote: >>>> Steve-- >>>> >>>> The new paper gasket from Moss mike's to about .015" >>>> >>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 11:07 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>>>> Maybe they've thinned it down. I reported my findings to Michael Grant, QA Mgr at Moss at the time (since retired). >>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 6:04 PM Michael Oritt wrote: >>>>>> Steve-- >>>>>> >>>>>> I began seeing a slightly oily "footprint" under my left rear tire a few weeks ago and figured I would have to replace the lip seal. However when I removed the axle I found that there was no paper gasket between the axle flange and the hub, nor any trace of one, nor was there an O ring! >>>>>> >>>>>> My memory is not the best but i know that in the 15 or so years and 60K miles since the car was professionally restored I have never pulled an axle on nor had any leaks from either rear hub. If there was a paper gasket or O ring or sealant it was all gone and the only thing providing any seal at all was the metal-to-metal contact >>>>>> >>>>>> After cleaning everything up and putting in an O ring and paper gasket coated with hylomar I thought that I had better check the oil level as I expected it to be down from the leak. Amazingly the oil level was almost up to the very top with no need to add any at all. So I closed everything up and as I said in my previous post I have probably driven 30-50 miles since with no leak. >>>>>> >>>>>> BTW the paper gasket that Moss supplies is very thin though I did not mike it. I have a spare and will do so tomorrow and will let you know. >>>>>> >>>>>> Best--Michael >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> IO >>>>>> >>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 5:07 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>>>>>> ...or before any trips. How thick was the old gasket you removed? >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 2:04 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>>>>>>> What started me thinking was I had leaking seal and a spun bearing. Spoke with Tom Monaco (tom's toys) and he said he'd replaced 80+ of those bearings which didn't sound right to me. He said the heat from the spun bearing ate the seal. So I performed the experiment shown in my gallery pix and reviewed the section in the manual - both of which made it obvious what was happening. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Your fix may last for a while or forever - dunno. Did you have to freeze the bearing and heat the hub to install the bearing? If so it'll probably stay for a while. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Might just want to budget time to check it out after the summer driving season. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 1:56 PM Michael Oritt wrote: >>>>>>>>> BTW just last week i put in a Moss paper gasket and hylomar to stop a slight leak at the flange. Not recognizing the issue I did not think to check clearance. I have driven the car perhaps 25-30 miles since with no problem or further leakage so I guess I am asking whether you think the issue would by now have presented itself if the gasket were clamping the bearing race? Or do I need to tear everything apart again? >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>> Best--Michael >>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 4:51 PM Michael Oritt wrote: >>>>>>>>>> Steve-- >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Later 100's such as mine have the same rear axle, etc. so this would not be unique to 6 cylinder cars. In any case I think I get the picture.... >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>> Thanks--Michael >>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 4:43 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> Also maybe this problem isn't occurring on the 100s. >>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019, 1:28 PM Michael Oritt wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> Steve-- >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Offlist.... Please explain why a too-thick paper gasket would cause the bearing to spin? Wouldn't it simply create more space between the inner face of the axle shaft flange and the outer face of the hub, which in any case should ride correctly on the end of the axle housing/bearing surface regardless? Or does it somehow clamp the inner race of the hub bearing, but if so how and why? >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>> Best--Michael >>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, Jun 25, 2019 at 4:13 PM Steve Gerow wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> Neil, >>>>>>>>>>>>> Leaking axle seals are often caused by spun bearings. Use of too-thick Moss cardboard gaskets causes bearing to be insufficiently gripped (as specified in the manual). Heat from spun bearing causes seal to leak. Therefore replacing the seal is not sufficient unless you correct the gasket / spun bearing situation. >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> For documentation, see: >>>>>>>>>>>>> https://pbase.com/stevegerow/healey_rear_bearing >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> From: Neil McDonald >>>>>>>>>>>>> To: Healey List >>>>>>>>>>>>> Cc: >>>>>>>>>>>>> Bcc: >>>>>>>>>>>>> Date: Tue, 25 Jun 2019 10:45:57 -0700 >>>>>>>>>>>>> Subject: [Healeys] Leaking Rear Hub Flange >>>>>>>>>>>>> A lot of list chatter about how to stop oil leaks at the rear hub flange by replacing the paper gasket or using goo of some sort. Am I right in thinking that fitting a new oil seal inboard of the wheel bearing makes this issue redundant, or is this not necessarily the case? >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Neil >>>>>>>>>>>>> BN6 >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>>>>>>> Steve Gerow >>>>>>>>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>>>>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>>>>>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>>>>>>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> -- >>>>>>>> Steve >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> -- >>>>>>> Steve >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Steve >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Steve > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cjerryadams at yahoo.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Jun 29 12:47:35 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 18:47:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Stainless Brake Hoses In-Reply-To: References: <672899008.660868.1561812210695.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <672899008.660868.1561812210695@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <613417150.737218.1561834055329@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Rick.? I should have figured as not much changed for the rear axle during most of production.Mike M On Saturday, June 29, 2019, 9:15:38 AM PDT, HealeyRick wrote: Mike, The Moss part number for the rear brake hose is the same for the?BN1, BN2, BN4, BT7, BJ7, BJ8. so if you are using a stainless set from one of those cars, you should be good. Best regards.Rick Neville On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 8:46 AM Michael MacLean wrote: Am I wrong in assuming that I need braided steel flexible brake hoses for a 3000 Healey for the disc brake conversion of my BN2?? So, if I want stainless hoses for all three locations, I will need a BN2 version for the rear axle?? Does this mean I have to buy two different sets because of my disc brake conversion, or will the 3000 set be OK for for front and rear?Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Jun 29 15:05:09 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 29 Jun 2019 21:05:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news In-Reply-To: References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com>, Message-ID: The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduced bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. These o-rings deteriorate with time, heat, and use and then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the pressure that can be developed. To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulator in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-rings can be replaced. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Bob Spidell Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating. I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it. Or some combination of the three. If you end up replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation. Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated. If you have good pressure that rules out the pump. If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings. I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing). Bob ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost. On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote: Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as these were original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt. Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news. But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before. The bad news. It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator. I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom. WD 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Sun Jun 30 13:55:31 2019 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 15:55:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Pulley Message-ID: I am rebuilding a spare generator for a 100 and wondered if anyone on the list might have a pulley for it. The 100 pulley takes the larger belt vs later ones. Contact me off list if you do have one. Ken Sent from my iPhone From ov at telus.net Sun Jun 30 18:42:08 2019 From: ov at telus.net (Oliver Viitamaki) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 17:42:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Voltage regulator Message-ID: ??? What is the current thought on getting a replacement for a RB340 Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not interested in sending the regulator in for a rebuild. ??? The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a replacement mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I can be convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given enough evidence. ???? Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the red Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned, went off as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten, come back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340 generator checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I successfully ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340 regulator checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting out of spec, could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of spec. ??? ov From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Jun 30 19:01:34 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 21:01:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Voltage regulator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Oliver, not sure if this will help but I chased a similar problem many years back which turned out to be caused by a poor but not completely failed ground of the regulator E terminal. Might be worth checking that carefully. M On Sun, Jun 30, 2019, 8:43 PM Oliver Viitamaki, wrote: > > What is the current thought on getting a replacement for a RB340 > Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not interested in > sending the regulator in for a rebuild. > > The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a replacement > mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I can be > convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given enough > evidence. > > Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the red > Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned, went off > as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was > speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten, come > back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340 generator > checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I successfully > ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340 regulator > checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting out of spec, > could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of spec. > > ov > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jun 30 19:43:31 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 18:43:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Free Idler Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Jun 30 20:02:32 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 19:02:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Voltage regulator In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had a VR fail on a long road trip--it started overcharging and I got an acid leak in the boot.? I don't recall for sure, but I think it was a re-pop.? When I had a starter rebuilt by Star Auto Electric Mike, the owner, strongly recommended the one he sells, and I sprung for it.? It's worked for 10-15K miles.? I'm not sure, but it might be this one: http://starautoelectric.com/product/ncb-133/ OTOH, there are cheaper alternatives: https://www.bpnorthwest.com/voltage-regulator-rb340-33-amp.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-czdmMuS4wIVkfhkCh1GkQVWEAQYAiABEgIwivD_BwE The BPN people are pretty knowledgeable, I'd call both Star and them and see what you think (and Moss, and Vicky Brit, and Tom's Imports, etc.).? If you have an original cover, it will transplant to a new re-pop.? The OEM VRs are overbuilt, but the re-pops all look flimsy inside compared to them; e.g. the 'dials' used for adjustment are thin sheet metal compared to OEM (if anyone really cares I can get photos). Side Note: Star does excellent work--I was having starter issues on my BN2 that Star had rebuilt, and I took it to a local shop and he said the rebuild was excellent--but I paid for paint and it arrived in primer.? When I let him know he went 'radio silent' on me.? The starting issue was caused by too much paint causing a bad ground. Bob ps.? I've got a drawer full of VRs, if anyone knows a really good rebuilder I'd send a couple in for spares. On 6/30/2019 5:42 PM, Oliver Viitamaki wrote: > > ??? What is the current thought on getting a replacement for a RB340 > Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not interested in > sending the regulator in for a rebuild. > > ??? The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a replacement > mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I can be > convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given > enough evidence. > > ???? Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the red > Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned, went > off as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was > speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten, > come back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340 > generator checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I > successfully ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas > RB340 regulator checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit > setting out of spec, could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor > was out of spec. > > ??? ov > > > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Jun 30 20:43:07 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean) Date: Sun, 30 Jun 2019 19:43:07 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Ref: Free Idler Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Jun 26 14:44:46 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 26 Jun 2019 16:44:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right In-Reply-To: <1377398941.322699.1561567134966@mail.yahoo.com> References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com> <288785692.3429038.1561553649408.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> <1377398941.322699.1561567134966@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I am only seeing Michael MacLean's side of the conversations, not Michael Salter's. I would appreciate it if one of you could favor us with Michael Salter's messages so we will know what he suggested. Best--Michael Oritt On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 12:39 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > That would be awesome! Just not something you are going to see in the > Sears tool department. > Mike M > > On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 6:29:56 AM PDT, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > This is what you need. 1 end octagonal for BN2 and later the other hex for > BN1. > M > > On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 8:54 AM Charles Schott, wrote: > > I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts. > It nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the > nuts back on, I will return it to Moss as defective. > > Regards, > > Charlie Schott > > ------------------------------ > *From: *"Michael MacLean" > *To: *"Healeys" > *Sent: *Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM > *Subject: *[Healeys] Nothing Goes Right > > I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque > the hub nut down. The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just > slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut. I'll never get it torqued > down that way. I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy > looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 > ft lbs. Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we > designed it for!" I am not convinced. Go to the online Moss catalog and > look at part number 384-907. Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a > lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut. > Now look at the picture I have included in this email. I want to > install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake > cable. If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice > something odd. The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a > handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel. Only > problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side. I > have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at > least I thought I did. The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft. > I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days. I think it is > going to need a blue wrench. Of course I don't have one. > Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight. > Nothing is easy, nothing goes right. So, I am looking for a emergency > brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture. I'm > willing to pay. > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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