[Healeys] Brake Light Switch

[ahbn6 at verizon.net]

I had a switch from Watsons on my third brake light setup and kept the pressure switch as well. You can see wiring, etc. in the My Modifications Section in my site

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com

Aberdeen, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 8:36 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

I installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several years ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement pressure switches.  My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks (www.watsons-streetworks.com <http://www.watsons-streetworks.com> ).  Their explanation of the problem with pressure switches is that the contacts do not "wipe" over each other during switch operation and therefore do not clean themselves of oxidation that causes them to fail.  Sounded good to me. 

So far, the mechanical switch has operated perfectly for 13 years and 40,000 miles.  

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

Bob--

 

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.  

 

Best--Michael IOritt

 

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.  
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

Bob

On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
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