[Healeys] Brake Light Switch

[Michael Oritt]

Bob--

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the
brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.

Best--Michael IOritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey
> Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the
> switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would
> do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit
> the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.
> I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put
> LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's
> partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into
> stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.
>
> Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> > Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> > I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the
> erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the
> years on other Brit cars.
> > The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> > However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> > I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the
> operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is
> wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch
> is just a back up.
> > Works just fine.
> > rg
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> > Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
> >
> > A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> > Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> > tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> > after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> > make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> > fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> > prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> > quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
> >
> > Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> > machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> > correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> > the leak).
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
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