[Healeys] Brake Light Switch

[Bob Spidell]

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.  
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

Bob

On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>