[Healeys] Alternator Is “Hummingybe

Sun Jul 7 11:49:23 MDT 2019

The Lucas alternators are OK. Not the Lucaslookalikes.

They look vaguely period. Indeed, they are fairly period! And one can get all the bits and bobs for a rebuild if necessary.

I bought one on eBay. A 17ACR.It would work fine for about 5 minutes then my ammeter would go off the clock. But it was cheap to buy  - £16:55 - and very cheap to fix.

They come left or right handed but can be swapped around.

Simon

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 07 July 2019 12:42
To: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternator Is “Hummingybe

Price--

I went through a series of NAPA alternators, all defective out of the box, until I finally got my money back and bought a Leece-Neville/Prestolite unit which has given me about 15 years of trouble-free service.  One of its nice features is that it has a modular external voltage regulator and changing it would probably take no more than five minutes.

Best--Michael Oritt 

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 9:11 PM jim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Maybe a picture  will help ...The only path for current to flow is through the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...

Jim

On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com <mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com> > wrote: 

I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.

When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.  

Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can’t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I’ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.  

This is the second new alternator I’ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?

Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.

Price Lindsay

67 BJ8

Sent from my iPad

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