From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Jul  1 04:25:46 2019
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2019 06:25:46 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
Message-ID: <782104207.219.1561976746878@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

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From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com  Mon Jul  1 12:41:00 2019
From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2019 13:41:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 carbs - H4
Message-ID: <008c01d5303c$87bc4010$9734c030$@glasgow-ky.com>

What is current thinking about the cork gland washers that the jets slide in
--

Replace with o-rings or original style cork (soaked in oil first)?

 

Thanks - Chappy Rice BN2



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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  1 19:03:07 2019
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2019 18:03:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7MF-w=YiS4suA6SkziaiFZJ4JOkgwaNLT2LvWEgKSFrw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com>
 <288785692.3429038.1561553649408.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAB3i7LLwcZtvsmgz=-epc9SWyuu4KjrGsF1DiNzua++w86vR5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1377398941.322699.1561567134966@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7MF-w=YiS4suA6SkziaiFZJ4JOkgwaNLT2LvWEgKSFrw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqO9SnvOU6tbX_7RLLoSyff3_27w3QCazWCWNfLwFRVL6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Where does it say that the retaining nut should be torqued to 150 ft lbs.
I'm guessing, but I'd say I have routinely torqued that nut to around 50 to
60 ft lbs at the most. Never had a problem and that  is on my race car that
I have raced pretty hard for over 30 years. That also includes a time when
I sheared off an axle flange during a race.  So I would say I have stressed
those rear hubs pretty hard

On Sun, Jun 30, 2019 at 8:29 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I am only seeing Michael MacLean's side of the conversations, not Michael
> Salter's.  I would appreciate it if one of you could favor us with Michael
> Salter's messages so we will know what he suggested.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 12:39 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> That would be awesome!  Just not something you are going to see in the
>> Sears tool department.
>> Mike M
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 6:29:56 AM PDT, Michael Salter <
>> michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> This is what you need. 1 end octagonal for BN2 and later the other hex
>> for BN1.
>> M
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 8:54 AM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts.
>> It nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the
>> nuts back on, I will return it to Moss as defective.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Charlie Schott
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: *"Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> *To: *"Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM
>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
>>
>>     I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can
>> torque the hub nut down.  The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and
>> just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.  I'll never get it
>> torqued down that way.  I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new
>> flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut
>> to 150 ft lbs.  Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's
>> what we designed it for!"  I am not convinced.  Go to the online Moss
>> catalog and look at part number 384-907.  Tell me that looks like a tool
>> you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut.
>>      Now look at the picture I have included in this email.  I want to
>> install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake
>> cable.  If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice
>> something odd.  The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a
>> handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.  Only
>> problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.  I
>> have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at
>> least I thought I did.  The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.
>> I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.  I think it is
>> going to need a blue wrench.  Of course I don't have one.
>>      Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.
>> Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.  So, I am looking for a emergency
>> brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.  I'm
>> willing to pay.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>
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>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul  1 19:47:01 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:47:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqO9SnvOU6tbX_7RLLoSyff3_27w3QCazWCWNfLwFRVL6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <574634072.164947.1561538209954.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <574634072.164947.1561538209954@mail.yahoo.com>
 <288785692.3429038.1561553649408.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <CAB3i7LLwcZtvsmgz=-epc9SWyuu4KjrGsF1DiNzua++w86vR5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1377398941.322699.1561567134966@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7MF-w=YiS4suA6SkziaiFZJ4JOkgwaNLT2LvWEgKSFrw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqO9SnvOU6tbX_7RLLoSyff3_27w3QCazWCWNfLwFRVL6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.3.1562032028.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Richard / Listers
The earlier factory service manual states the following regarding tightening the hub nut:

?Tighten up the nut until the hub is fully home, and then secure by tapping down the lock washer on one of the flats of the nut.?

So it would appear the intent is to have no detectable float in the hub (if there is real detectable float of the hub on the stub there is a bigger problem since you need a puller to pull the hub off) but not torque the nut to any more than snug. Maybe we would not need those amazing ?new? tools if things were done like the factory recommended.  The Hub lock washer is the key to hold things in place. 

Not saying that things don?t go south quickly when parts are old or worn or that folks have not suffered loss because a bent piece of sheet steel (lock washer) failed but the factory that built these cars for 14 years probably envisioned and experienced the possibilities including having regular inspection and maintenance.
Perry



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: richard mayor
Sent: Monday, July 1, 2019 9:04 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right

Where does it say that the retaining nut should be torqued to 150 ft lbs.? I'm guessing, but I'd say I have routinely torqued that nut to around 50 to 60 ft lbs at the most. Never had a problem and that? is on my race car that I have raced pretty hard for over 30 years. That also includes a time when I sheared off an axle flange during a race.? So I would say I have stressed those rear hubs pretty hard

On Sun, Jun 30, 2019 at 8:29 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
I am only seeing Michael MacLean's side of the conversations, not Michael Salter's.? I would appreciate it if one of you could favor us with Michael Salter's messages so we will know what he suggested.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 12:39 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
That would be awesome!? Just not something you are going to see in the Sears tool department.
Mike M

On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 6:29:56 AM PDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: 


This is what you need. 1 end octagonal for BN2 and later the other hex for BN1.
M

On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 8:54 AM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net> wrote:
I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts. It nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the nuts back on, I will return it to Moss as defective.

Regards,

Charlie Schott


From: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right

??? I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque the hub nut down.? The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.? I'll never get it torqued down that way.? I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.? Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed it for!"? I am not convinced.? Go to the online Moss catalog and look at part number 384-907.? Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut.
???? Now look at the picture I have included in this email.? I want to install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake cable.? If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice something odd.? The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.? Only problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.? I have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least I thought I did.? The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.? I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.? I think it is going to need a blue wrench.? Of course I don't have one.
???? Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.? Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.? So, I am looking for a emergency brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.? I'm willing to pay.? 
Mike MacLean

_______________________________________________
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Jul  1 10:15:06 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2019 09:15:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
In-Reply-To: <782104207.219.1561976746878@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <782104207.219.1561976746878@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <DC91B456ACA3451888732A57689A16B5@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
I have a Proto 2 3/16 socket that is a quality tool and fits the axle nut.
Part number is 5570. It is 3/4" drive but can be used with a 1/2 to 3/4
adapter. The price on Amazon is $47.30.
 
This socket will outlast the Healey.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Haskell
Sent: Monday, July 01, 2019 3:26 AM
To: Michael Oritt; Michael MacLean
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right


Michael,

I'd guess that Michael is referring to a tool that is a combination of
service tools 18G152 (100 up to chassis # 221535 and Sprite) and 18G258
(later 100s and the 6 cylinders).  Which are described as: "Rear hub nut
spanner - a reinforced tubular spanner complete with tommy bar, designed to
pilot in the axle tube with the axle shaft removed".


Bob


-----Original Message----- 
From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Jun 26, 2019 4:44 PM 
To: Michael MacLean 
Cc: Austin Healey 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right 


I am only seeing Michael MacLean's side of the conversations, not Michael
Salter's.  I would appreciate it if one of you could favor us with Michael
Salter's messages so we will know what he suggested.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 12:39 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:


That would be awesome!  Just not something you are going to see in the Sears
tool department.
Mike M


On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 6:29:56 AM PDT, Michael Salter
<michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: 


This is what you need. 1 end octagonal for BN2 and later the other hex for
BN1. 
M

On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 8:54 AM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net> wrote:


I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts. It
nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the nuts
back on, I will return it to Moss as defective.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

  _____  

From: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right


    I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can torque
the hub nut down.  The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and just
slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.  I'll never get it torqued
down that way.  I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new flimsy looking
tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.
Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's what we designed
it for!"  I am not convinced.  Go to the online Moss catalog and look at
part number 384-907.  Tell me that looks like a tool you can put a lot of
torque on a 1/4" thick nut.

     Now look at the picture I have included in this email.  I want to
install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake
cable.  If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice
something odd.  The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a
handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.  Only
problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.  I have
a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at least
I thought I did.  The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.  I have
been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.  I think it is going to
need a blue wrench.  Of course I don't have one.
     Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.
Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.  So, I am looking for a emergency brake
handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.  I'm willing
to pay.  

Mike MacLean


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive


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Bob Haskell

'60 AH3000 BT7 (big project)

'62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project)

'64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition)

'68 BMW 1600 (first car - project)

'80 MBG LE (running?)


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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul  1 22:27:18 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 04:27:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Pump Location
References: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>

I am trying to install the fuel pump to? my BN2.? The back wall behind the seats where it is located has a Swiss cheese quality about it.? There are too many holes back there.? Can someone please tell me from looking at the picture, if the two pump mounting screws should go in the holes below the blue arrows or the blue and red arrows.? I'm leaning on the blue arrows because in the middle of the red and blue arrows is a raised ledge and that doesn't' seem right. Those are the only choices with the correct spacing for the two mounting screws on the pump.
Mike MacLean
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  1 22:53:07 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 1 Jul 2019 21:53:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pump Location
In-Reply-To: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <816a620d-1bdd-e1fb-5f1b-6d655ea7775d@comcast.net>

Mike,

I'm working from memory but, for once it's working pretty good. The pump 
goes into the two holes on the right, the one with the red arrow and the 
un-arrowed hole.? The two marked with blue arrows are aftermarket (and 
one is strangely oblonged; I doubt the bean counters at BMC would 
authorize such an elaborate hole).

I remember because my BN2 had only those two holes and I had to stack 
flat washers to give the pump a flat base due to the embossing on the 
bulkhead.

Bob

On 7/1/2019 9:27 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> I am trying to install the fuel pump to? my BN2.? The back wall behind 
> the seats where it is located has a Swiss cheese quality about it.? 
> There are too many holes back there.? Can someone please tell me from 
> looking at the picture, if the two pump mounting screws should go in 
> the holes below the blue arrows or the blue and red arrows.? I'm 
> leaning on the blue arrows because in the middle of the red and blue 
> arrows is a raised ledge and that doesn't' seem right. Those are the 
> only choices with the correct spacing for the two mounting screws on 
> the pump.
> Mike MacLean
>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Jul  1 23:07:18 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 01 Jul 2019 22:07:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Pump Location
In-Reply-To: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <idplhe5oiu5qug44p4kn2vpmggfpb30529@4ax.com>

The red and blue arrows are what exists on #724, and no other holes.
When I asked Roger Moment he sent me a photo of his Hundred with the
same configuaration.  Moral of the story seems to be that you don't
want to tighten that screw hanging out in the air as tight as the
other one.

If your fuel ines will adjust to the other pair of holes, be my guest
if you like.

-Roland
BN1 #724

On Tue, 2 Jul 2019 04:27:18 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>I am trying to install the fuel pump to? my BN2.? The back wall behind the seats where it is located has a Swiss cheese quality about it.? There are too many holes back there.? Can someone please tell me from looking at the picture, if the two pump mounting screws should go in the holes below the blue arrows or the blue and red arrows.? I'm leaning on the blue arrows because in the middle of the red and blue arrows is a raised ledge and that doesn't' seem right. Those are the only choices with the correct spacing for the two mounting screws on the pump.
>Mike MacLean

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul  2 00:46:38 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 08:46:38 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Pump Location
In-Reply-To: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5e75646a-887a-66cf-04df-8c73b05b857d@chello.nl>

Perhaps the pump was fitted on a ?3mm thick bracket. The bracket being 
fitted to the backwall with two bolts and nuts (possibly the elongated 
hole with blue arrow + unmarked hole or the one with the red arrow), the 
pump to the bracket with studs, grommets, distant pieces, large washers 
and nuts to isolatie the pump from the body. This would be safer than 
using the small silent blocks only.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 2-7-2019 om 06:27 schreef Michael MacLean:
> I am trying to install the fuel pump to? my BN2.? The back wall behind 
> the seats where it is located has a Swiss cheese quality about it.? 
> There are too many holes back there.? Can someone please tell me from 
> looking at the picture, if the two pump mounting screws should go in 
> the holes below the blue arrows or the blue and red arrows.? I'm 
> leaning on the blue arrows because in the middle of the red and blue 
> arrows is a raised ledge and that doesn't' seem right. Those are the 
> only choices with the correct spacing for the two mounting screws on 
> the pump.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul  2 05:19:05 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 07:19:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Pump Location
In-Reply-To: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1203799725.1693151.1562041639414@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL68MP8+v9LzT7=_q8+qwY9wX0VhwS54cVY3Vo4UB1=6Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael,
Looking up from below the centerline of the pump should be very slightly
outboard of the outside edge of the left frame rail.

M

On Tue, Jul 2, 2019, 12:49 AM Michael MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I am trying to install the fuel pump to  my BN2.  The back wall behind the
> seats where it is located has a Swiss cheese quality about it.  There are
> too many holes back there.  Can someone please tell me from looking at the
> picture, if the two pump mounting screws should go in the holes below the
> blue arrows or the blue and red arrows.  I'm leaning on the blue arrows
> because in the middle of the red and blue arrows is a raised ledge and that
> doesn't' seem right. Those are the only choices with the correct spacing
> for the two mounting screws on the pump.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ov at telus.net  Tue Jul  2 10:13:39 2019
From: ov at telus.net (Oliver Viitamaki)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 09:13:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Voltage regulator
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+Lyw_0w7x=BYGp=ooK6tFjjw9DDOXaF=4KCraGZVwawA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e2f75961-f7ef-0286-f394-8a5adc4eee09@telus.net>
 <CAB3i7L+Lyw_0w7x=BYGp=ooK6tFjjw9DDOXaF=4KCraGZVwawA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8d63f1b3-30f4-bd5d-4ab4-4ff39047186a@telus.net>


 ??? Thanks Michael, on your suggestion I checked the ground wire on the 
regulator, and the resistance to a known good ground, from the 3 
regulator mounting screws (yes they isolate the regulator from ground, 
but make a ground connection test point) was 0.3 ohms, and the regulator 
base/backing plate was 0.4 ohms, to the same known good ground. It 
remained that way during and after wiggling the ground wire, on the 
grounding point on the regulator, and where the screw connects it to 
ground.? So I think this rules out a loose ground. The meter used is a 
Fluke 77 series III, so I trust what the meter is reading.

 ??? ov

On 30-Jun.-2019 6:01 p.m., Michael Salter wrote:
> Hi Oliver, not sure if this will help but I chased a similar problem 
> many years back which turned out to be caused by a poor but not 
> completely failed ground of the regulator E terminal.
> Might be worth checking that carefully.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Jun 30, 2019, 8:43 PM Oliver Viitamaki, <ov at telus.net 
> <mailto:ov at telus.net>> wrote:
>
>
>     ???? What is the current thought on getting a replacement for a RB340
>     Voltage Regulator? Which supplier? I'm at the moment not
>     interested in
>     sending the regulator in for a rebuild.
>
>     ???? The car is still positive ground, and I'm leaning to a
>     replacement
>     mechanical regulator, assuming that a Lucas one can be found. I
>     can be
>     convinced to go electronic, and convert to negative ground, given
>     enough
>     evidence.
>
>     ????? Background: I went to wash the car, and noticed that the red
>     Ignition light came on, as it should, when the key was turned,
>     went off
>     as expected when the engine was idling. As soon as the engine was
>     speed-ed up, at about 1500 rpm, the ignition light would brighten,
>     come
>     back on. Troubleshooting so far, I completed the Lucas RB340
>     generator
>     checkout, procedure successfully, and as a crosscheck, I successfully
>     ran it as a motor. Then I turned my focus to the Lucas RB340
>     regulator
>     checkout procedure, and it showed that Open Circuit setting out of
>     spec,
>     could not be adjusted in and the swamp resistor was out of spec.
>
>     ???? ov
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Jul  2 12:59:53 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 18:59:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks for sale
References: <739713358.2011391.1562093993464.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <739713358.2011391.1562093993464@mail.yahoo.com>

Hello listers,
Have a pair of rebuilt rear shocks for sale.? NOT FOR BIG HEALEY.? Not sure of the application but Moss lists them for '62-'80 MGB.? May also apply to other Brit cars such as Midget, Sprite, TR etc.? Part numbers are 6076 LH and 6076 RH so check your numbers.? Includes both new links too.? $200 for all including shipping to lower 48.? First $200 wins 'em!!!
Keithllennep at verizon.net
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From peter at nosimport.com  Tue Jul  2 14:34:47 2019
From: peter at nosimport.com (Peter Caldwell)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 14:34:47 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks for sale
In-Reply-To: <739713358.2011391.1562093993464@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <739713358.2011391.1562093993464.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <739713358.2011391.1562093993464@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <b8b8d37a-3810-6656-7f39-b7d42ed70878@nosimport.com>

6076 ARE for early big Healey?? NOT for MGB

 ?? Peter C

On 7/2/2019 1:59 PM, Keith Pennell via Healeys wrote:
> Hello listers,
>
> Have a pair of rebuilt rear shocks for sale.? NOT FOR BIG HEALEY.? Not 
> sure of the application but Moss lists them for '62-'80 MGB.? May also 
> apply to other Brit cars such as Midget, Sprite, TR etc.? Part numbers 
> are 6076 LH and 6076 RH so check your numbers.? Includes both new 
> links too.? $200 for all including shipping to lower 48.? First $200 
> wins 'em!!!
>
> Keith
> llennep at verizon.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/peter at nosimport.com
>
-- 
World Wide Auto Parts of Madison WI
2517 Seiferth Rd
Madison   WI   53716-3302
USA
608.223-9400  M-F  9-5 Central

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Jul  2 13:49:45 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 13:49:45 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] For sale
Message-ID: <b71819ec-4871-3ab4-2eb1-6cd333052177@porterscustom.com>

Folks,

 ?A friend and Healey Club member recently passed and his widow has 
asked me to sell his Bugeye. What I know is that it is restored to a 
nice level. 1275 engine and disc brakes. The car is quite an 
inconvenient distance for more

pictures at this time... I've seen and driven the car about a year ago 
and know it's been parked indoors since. The price is $17,500.00 or best 
near offer. Buyer needs to pickup or arrange that chore.

DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul  2 05:30:39 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 07:30:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
In-Reply-To: <782104207.219.1561976746878@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <782104207.219.1561976746878@wamui-agami.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKAQuoU6e+uockgsLzByU-rNfrtD0d4YY4K36kiZxGMMg@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Bob is correct. Sorry that my pics didn't come through.  I'm trying a
single one here.
The tool does indeed have the hex for the 100 on one end and the octagon
for the later axle on the other.
M

On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 6:25 AM Bob Haskell, <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> I'd guess that Michael is referring to a tool that is a combination of
> service tools 18G152 (100 up to chassis # 221535 and Sprite) and 18G258
> (later 100s and the 6 cylinders).  Which are described as: "Rear hub nut
> spanner - a reinforced tubular spanner complete with tommy bar, designed to
> pilot in the axle tube with the axle shaft removed".
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Oritt
> Sent: Jun 26, 2019 4:44 PM
> To: Michael MacLean
> Cc: Austin Healey
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
>
> I am only seeing Michael MacLean's side of the conversations, not Michael
> Salter's.  I would appreciate it if one of you could favor us with Michael
> Salter's messages so we will know what he suggested.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019 at 12:39 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> That would be awesome!  Just not something you are going to see in the
>> Sears tool department.
>> Mike M
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 26, 2019, 6:29:56 AM PDT, Michael Salter <
>> michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> This is what you need. 1 end octagonal for BN2 and later the other hex
>> for BN1.
>> M
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 26, 2019, 8:54 AM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I bought that socket from Moss and used an impact gun to loosen the nuts.
>> It nearly wallowed out the square hole. A very soft metal. Once I get the
>> nuts back on, I will return it to Moss as defective.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Charlie Schott
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: *"Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> *To: *"Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 26, 2019 3:36:49 AM
>> *Subject: *[Healeys] Nothing Goes Right
>>
>>     I ordered the 8 point 2 3/16" hub nut wrench from Moss so I can
>> torque the hub nut down.  The 2 13/64ths tube wrench I have is too big and
>> just slips off when I apply any pressure to the nut.  I'll never get it
>> torqued down that way.  I called the Moss tech line to ask if the new
>> flimsy looking tube hub nut wrench they now sell will let me torque the nut
>> to 150 ft lbs.  Almost before I could finish asking him, he said, "that's
>> what we designed it for!"  I am not convinced.  Go to the online Moss
>> catalog and look at part number 384-907.  Tell me that looks like a tool
>> you can put a lot of torque on a 1/4" thick nut.
>>      Now look at the picture I have included in this email.  I want to
>> install my nice re-chromed emergency brake handle and new emergency brake
>> cable.  If you look at the restored handle on the left you may notice
>> something odd.  The ratchet plate that bolts to the tunnel is for a
>> handbrake that is installed on the driver's side of the tunnel.  Only
>> problem is, the BN2 emergency brake handle is on the passenger side.  I
>> have a good parts brake handle, (the handle on the right in the picture) at
>> least I thought I did.  The ratchet plate is corroded solid on the shaft.
>> I have been soaking it in PB Blaster for a couple of days.  I think it is
>> going to need a blue wrench.  Of course I don't have one.
>>      Every thing I do to this car to put it back together is a fight.
>> Nothing is easy, nothing goes right.  So, I am looking for a emergency
>> brake handle ratchet plate like the one on the right in my picture.  I'm
>> willing to pay.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
> Bob Haskell
> '60 AH3000 BT7 (big project)
> '62 AH3000 BT7 (smaller project)
> '64 Mini Cooper (small project - by definition)
> '68 BMW 1600 (first car - project)
> '80 MBG LE (running?)
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Jul  2 23:06:14 2019
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 2 Jul 2019 22:06:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Mitchell Healey
Message-ID: <538E0B966BF24324997063A8DEFF78D0@LeonardPCPC>


In remembrance --
Donald Mitchell Healey, 3 July 1898 - 13 January 1988

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul  2 23:37:22 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Tue, 02 Jul 2019 22:37:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Pump Location
Message-ID: <mailman.6.1562132282.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Thanks to Michael Salter for the exact location, the fuel pump is installed in my BN2.? Thanks to the list for all the help.? Probably not the last time I will be seeking the collective wisdom here.Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul  3 05:25:56 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2019 07:25:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Mitchell Healey
In-Reply-To: <538E0B966BF24324997063A8DEFF78D0@LeonardPCPC>
References: <538E0B966BF24324997063A8DEFF78D0@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <mailman.7.1562153159.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Here is to the man, Donald Healey, and all the folks that have been part of my experience of owning one (many) of his creations over the last 54 years. Not to be to ?corny? but its been a really fun ride!
Aloha
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett
Sent: Wednesday, July 3, 2019 1:07 AM
To: AH Mail List
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Mitchell Healey

?
In remembrance --
Donald Mitchell Healey, 3 July 1898 - 13 January 1988
?
(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

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From nstbennett at gmail.com  Wed Jul  3 16:52:48 2019
From: nstbennett at gmail.com (N.S. Bennett)
Date: Wed, 3 Jul 2019 16:52:48 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] SIGHTING: I-90 Eastbound
Message-ID: <CAEcLKwhPbFcXDchY=hFwTnRbmtiy0bEXq=3cchGd0nTfJ6DjMw@mail.gmail.com>

Saw a very nice looking silver over black 100-6 or early 3000 on a trailer
Monday, late-morning, heading eastward on I-90 in NW PA (just west of Erie,
PA).

This may be the same car that was recently advertised in the greater
Cleveland area. Anyone on the list?

Cheers,
Nathan
'67 AH Sprite and a "Big Healey dreamer"
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Jul  4 02:13:22 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2019 09:13:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Hub nut spanner
Message-ID: <000001d53240$5a1ccbb0$0e566310$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Who was looking for a big hub nut spanner?

 

See:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REAR-HUB-SPANNER/122858890736?
hash=item1c9af5e5f0:g:9VEAAOSwx6pYqyYR

 

Not 6 point but looks like it could take a good wallop to tighten it up.

Simon

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jul  4 07:55:58 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2019 09:55:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Remember Tahoe
Message-ID: <48F62760-DC1E-45CE-A3F9-354DFF940360@aol.com>

Cleaning out ?my? dresser drawers this morning and at the bottom of pile of tee?s was a reminder of the 2002 Lake Tahoe meet. The tee shirt is faded and stained but the memory of the event is still vivid after 17 years. 
What a great gathering in a beautiful location, amazing cars and most importantly, a group of wonderful people. 
Look forward to South Dakota in September. 
Aloha from Pennsylvania
Perry and Kimberley

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Sent from my iPhone

From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Thu Jul  4 11:55:03 2019
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2019 12:55:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Hub nut spanner
In-Reply-To: <000001d53240$5a1ccbb0$0e566310$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d53240$5a1ccbb0$0e566310$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjpba5nSTp1HfNzSTUVvyrdyAX+FM+nXKB6TRb+kvrVP1Q@mail.gmail.com>

It's  an eight point spanner for an eight point axle hub nut, just what is
needed.

Neil Anderson.

On Thu, Jul 4, 2019 at 3:13 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

> Who was looking for a big hub nut spanner?
>
>
>
> See:-
>
>
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REAR-HUB-SPANNER/122858890736?hash=item1c9af5e5f0:g:9VEAAOSwx6pYqyYR
>
>
>
> Not 6 point but looks like it could take a good wallop to tighten it up.
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Jul  4 12:05:06 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2019 18:05:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hub nut spanner
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjpba5nSTp1HfNzSTUVvyrdyAX+FM+nXKB6TRb+kvrVP1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001d53240$5a1ccbb0$0e566310$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <CAHZDnjpba5nSTp1HfNzSTUVvyrdyAX+FM+nXKB6TRb+kvrVP1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2050820527.3033430.1562263506339@mail.yahoo.com>

 It was me that was looking for it.? Bought one through a lister that is quite similar in configuration and price.? Made from 5/16" stainless steel, see attached picture.? Thanks for the submission though.? Your "find" would have been just what I needed if I had not found one already.Mike MacLean

    On Thursday, July 4, 2019, 10:56:07 AM PDT, Neil Anderson <neilandcustom at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 It's? an eight point spanner for an eight point axle hub nut, just what is needed.
Neil Anderson.

On Thu, Jul 4, 2019 at 3:13 AM <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:


Who was looking for a big hub nut spanner?

?

See:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-REAR-HUB-SPANNER/122858890736?hash=item1c9af5e5f0:g:9VEAAOSwx6pYqyYR

?

Not 6 point but looks like it could take a good wallop to tighten it up.

Simon
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From bighealey3k at aim.com  Thu Jul  4 22:17:38 2019
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 04:17:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hub nut spanner
References: <615841176.3043316.1562300258070.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <615841176.3043316.1562300258070@mail.yahoo.com>



I'm a little late with my reply to the list with my answer to getting the Rear Axle Bearing Nut off.  I had to find my home made wrench in my morass of tooling and other junk that I can't seem to part with, junk that is (pack rat).  Years ago I made this wrench out of 1/4 inch steel plate. I cut the outer shape with a band saw and the inner shape with a "zizz" wheel plunge cut on each flat enough to finish it off with a hacksaw. Then cleaned up the saw marks with an assortment of files and a belt sander. Being flat, there isn't the issue of the wrench twisting off the nut like an ill fitting socket with an adapter and breaker bar attached. I used a heavy brass hammer to strike the arm on my wrench and it worked very nicely.


Larry
'67 BJ8




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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Fri Jul  5 14:59:54 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 14:59:54 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] used classic driving suits
Message-ID: <deb2c00b-3815-e502-5e5b-408fb11210c3@porterscustom.com>

for you collectors or shop decorators, etc.

 ?I have two racing suits (Simpson) that belonged to Healey race driver 
Dan Pendergraft. Both suits in good condition, though the red suit is a 
bit sun faded in spots. As far as race rules go, they are still legal 
for most race

venues. Both have some interesting period patches. Fresh from the dry 
cleaners and ready to wear or hang. Would like to see a $100 for each. 
I'll cover shipping in USA.? I'd call them medium/large in sizing. Dan 
was about 5'10"? DaveP

-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Fri Jul  5 15:06:14 2019
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 17:06:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?QWx0ZXJuYXRvciBJcyDigJxIdW1taW5n4oCd?=
Message-ID: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>

I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.

When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.  

Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.  

This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?

Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
 
Sent from my iPad

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  5 18:13:08 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 17:13:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite engine #
Message-ID: <CABXhz88VZ5+hdiNhsVzgzHhXXo89xN0mmg0T=Qkzv4Hp9y31eQ@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all
Where is the engine # ID plate on a 65 Sprite?
Is it on the driver or passenger side of engine on a lhd car?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Fri Jul  5 19:10:54 2019
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 01:10:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>

Maybe a picture? will help ...The only path for current to flow is through the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...
Jim

    On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.? FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.? This seems like a lot.

When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.? However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.? 

Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.? I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.? I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.? 

This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.? I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.? Could it be another bad alternator??? Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?

Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
 
Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jul  5 19:37:13 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 5 Jul 2019 21:37:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKLS1XcM9rpT9z6nfXouumffg8PAU2dEhV+oSbCyLBSHA@mail.gmail.com>

One little trick for tracing parasitic losses it to attach the ammeter to
both sides of a connection BEFORE breaking the connection.
In this way a draw that "switches off" when the connection is broken will
be seen.
This happens with self energizing relays in particular.
Not sure if such a test would help in this instance but may be worth a try.
M

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 9:11 PM jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Maybe a picture  will help ...The only path for current to flow is through
> the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...
>
> Jim
>
> On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my
> battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the
> charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.
>
> When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a
> negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative
> terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the
> battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not
> register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the
> same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.
>
> Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a
> little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I
> disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when
> I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t
> see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses
> one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with
> the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.
>
> This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60
> days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the
> problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad
> alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very
> well these days?
>
> Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sat Jul  6 01:20:56 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 09:20:56 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?QWx0ZXJuYXRvciBJcyDigJxIdW1taW5n4oCd?=
In-Reply-To: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1562397656662.1431628.ac1e20b23fddaff6cb3bf2fe0ac9b89a502975ea@spica.telekom.de>

Alternator or Generator?



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Humming?
Datum: 2019-07-06T00:05:12+0200
Von: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com>
An: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>

I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.

When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.  

Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.  

This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?

Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
 
Sent from my iPad
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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?

From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Jul  6 07:29:55 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 09:29:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite engine #
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88VZ5+hdiNhsVzgzHhXXo89xN0mmg0T=Qkzv4Hp9y31eQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88VZ5+hdiNhsVzgzHhXXo89xN0mmg0T=Qkzv4Hp9y31eQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0c1901d533fe$e844f240$b8ced6c0$@rr.com>

Normally on the passenger's side, toward the front of the engine, on a flat ledge at the edge of the valve cover.  Should be attached with two rivets like an Austin-Healey engine serial plate.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Friday, July 05, 2019 8:13 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite engine #

 

Howdy all

Where is the engine # ID plate on a 65 Sprite?

Is it on the driver or passenger side of engine on a lhd car?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Sat Jul  6 07:33:03 2019
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 09:33:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKLS1XcM9rpT9z6nfXouumffg8PAU2dEhV+oSbCyLBSHA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKLS1XcM9rpT9z6nfXouumffg8PAU2dEhV+oSbCyLBSHA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6F521AEF-ECAE-4A98-A340-05AAAB020503@gmail.com>

Thanks Michael.  I?ll give it a try.

Price Lindsay

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 5, 2019, at 9:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> One little trick for tracing parasitic losses it to attach the ammeter to both sides of a connection BEFORE breaking the connection. 
> In this way a draw that "switches off" when the connection is broken will be seen. 
> This happens with self energizing relays in particular. 
> Not sure if such a test would help in this instance but may be worth a try.
> M
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 9:11 PM jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Maybe a picture  will help ...The only path for current to flow is through the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...
>> 
>> Jim
>> 
>> On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.
>> 
>> When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.  
>> 
>> Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.  
>> 
>> This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?
>> 
>> Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.
>> 
>> Price Lindsay
>> 67 BJ8
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Jul  6 08:22:18 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 16:22:18 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <6F521AEF-ECAE-4A98-A340-05AAAB020503@gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LKLS1XcM9rpT9z6nfXouumffg8PAU2dEhV+oSbCyLBSHA@mail.gmail.com>
 <6F521AEF-ECAE-4A98-A340-05AAAB020503@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b3a1f46a-e9da-5efa-42fb-06c2471e097a@chello.nl>

Do this only with the ammeter in the highest capacity/Amp setting, than 
gradually go to the lowest capacity/mA setting. If you do not get any 
reading you are OK, if there is a reading on the mA scale there is a 
slight current/draw.

Kees Oudesluijs




Op 6-7-2019 om 15:33 schreef R. Lindsay:
> Thanks Michael. ?I?ll give it a try.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jul 5, 2019, at 9:37 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com 
> <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> One little trick for tracing parasitic losses it to attach the 
>> ammeter to both sides of a connection BEFORE breaking the connection.
>> In this way a draw that "switches off" when the connection is broken 
>> will be seen.
>> This happens with self energizing relays in particular.
>> Not sure if such a test would help in this instance but may be worth 
>> a try.
>> M
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 9:11 PM jim via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net 
>> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Maybe a picture? will help ...The only path for current to flow
>>     is through the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...
>>
>>     Jim
>>
>>     On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay
>>     <050.rpl at gmail.com <mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>     I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of
>>     power from my battery for the past several weeks.? FWIW, I have
>>     lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.? This seems
>>     like a lot.
>>
>>     When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery
>>     (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto
>>     the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the
>>     cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current
>>     of less than 10A) does not register a draw.? However, when I use
>>     a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light
>>     goes on ever so slightly.
>>
>>     Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it
>>     was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the
>>     engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the
>>     humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light
>>     did not light up - no draw.? I can?t see anywhere else the draw
>>     could be coming from.? I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to
>>     see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the
>>     alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.
>>
>>     This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last
>>     60 days.? I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator
>>     and the problem continued when I installed it. Could it be
>>     another bad alternator??? Are alternators exceptionally sensitive
>>     or just not made very well these days?
>>
>>     Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.
>>
>>     Price Lindsay
>>     67 BJ8
>>
>>     Sent from my iPad
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sat Jul  6 08:33:23 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 16:33:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?QWx0ZXJuYXRvciBJcyDigJxIdW1taW5n4oCd?=
In-Reply-To: <3FE51253-2ACB-4401-B8A4-C5EB08830DCE@gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1562397656662.1431628.ac1e20b23fddaff6cb3bf2fe0ac9b89a502975ea@spica.telekom.de>
 <3FE51253-2ACB-4401-B8A4-C5EB08830DCE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1562423603535.1483530.b1732089089ecace0eba7adaa419f43ff4c19ef1@spica.telekom.de>

When there is a draw through the alternator, one of the diodes of the rectifier is gone. You need to swap the alternator.

Josef Eckert
Germany



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Humming?
Datum: 2019-07-06T15:15:26+0200
Von: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com>
An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>

It?s an alternator, negative ground.

Price Lindsay

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 6, 2019, at 3:20 AM, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
> 
> Alternator or Generator?
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Humming?
> Datum: 2019-07-06T00:05:12+0200
> Von: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com>
> An: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.
> 
> When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.  
> 
> Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.  
> 
> This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?
> 
> Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de
> 
> 
?

From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Jul  6 08:49:21 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 14:49:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?b?QWx0ZXJuYXRvciBJcyDigJxIdW1taW5n4oCd?=
In-Reply-To: <1562423603535.1483530.b1732089089ecace0eba7adaa419f43ff4c19ef1@spica.telekom.de>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1562397656662.1431628.ac1e20b23fddaff6cb3bf2fe0ac9b89a502975ea@spica.telekom.de>
 <3FE51253-2ACB-4401-B8A4-C5EB08830DCE@gmail.com>
 <1562423603535.1483530.b1732089089ecace0eba7adaa419f43ff4c19ef1@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <604451532.3558404.1562424561754@mail.yahoo.com>

How does one go about whether there is a draw through the alternator as opposed to some other path? I.E. Exactly how & at what terminals is this tested? How sensitive of a meter?,? (analog or digital?), amps or resistance?, etc.Thanks,Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
To: R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>; Healey, Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 6, 2019 9:35 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Humming?

When there is a draw through the alternator, one of the diodes of the rectifier is gone. You need to swap the alternator.

Josef Eckert
Germany



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: AW: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Humming?
Datum: 2019-07-06T15:15:26+0200
Von: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com>
An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>

It?s an alternator, negative ground.

Price Lindsay

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 6, 2019, at 3:20 AM, "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
> 
> Alternator or Generator?
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Humming?
> Datum: 2019-07-06T00:05:12+0200
> Von: "R. Lindsay" <050.rpl at gmail.com>
> An: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.? FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.? This seems like a lot.
> 
> When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.? However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.? 
> 
> Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.? I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.? I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.? 
> 
> This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.? I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.? Could it be another bad alternator??? Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?
> 
> Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.
> 
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de
> 
> 
?
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Jul  6 09:50:56 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 08:50:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite engine #
In-Reply-To: <0c1901d533fe$e844f240$b8ced6c0$@rr.com>
References: <CABXhz88VZ5+hdiNhsVzgzHhXXo89xN0mmg0T=Qkzv4Hp9y31eQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <0c1901d533fe$e844f240$b8ced6c0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_wLGdpYHdNgX6r5t_+HiT+S2Yp7b3FXAYYxj=5XkjpEg@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who replied

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Sat, Jul 6, 2019, 6:30 AM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> Normally on the passenger's side, toward the front of the engine, on a
> flat ledge at the edge of the valve cover.  Should be attached with two
> rivets like an Austin-Healey engine serial plate.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i
> erbs
> *Sent:* Friday, July 05, 2019 8:13 PM
> *To:* Ahealey help
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Sprite engine #
>
>
>
> Howdy all
>
> Where is the engine # ID plate on a 65 Sprite?
>
> Is it on the driver or passenger side of engine on a lhd car?
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul  7 05:42:16 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 07:42:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5Yo6P+PxV+Bj_b6B87-=cMWK_UX_JVhc3Vw2aG9GWmEw@mail.gmail.com>

Price--

I went through a series of NAPA alternators, all defective out of the box,
until I finally got my money back and bought a Leece-Neville/Prestolite
unit which has given me about 15 years of trouble-free service.  One of its
nice features is that it has a modular external voltage regulator and
changing it would probably take no more than five minutes.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 9:11 PM jim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Maybe a picture  will help ...The only path for current to flow is through
> the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...
>
> Jim
>
> On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my
> battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the
> charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.
>
> When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a
> negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative
> terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the
> battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not
> register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the
> same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.
>
> Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a
> little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I
> disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when
> I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t
> see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses
> one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with
> the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.
>
> This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60
> days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the
> problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad
> alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very
> well these days?
>
> Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Jul  7 11:49:23 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 18:49:23 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Yo6P+PxV+Bj_b6B87-=cMWK_UX_JVhc3Vw2aG9GWmEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Yo6P+PxV+Bj_b6B87-=cMWK_UX_JVhc3Vw2aG9GWmEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000901d534ec$50e8fbf0$f2baf3d0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

The Lucas alternators are OK. Not the Lucaslookalikes.

They look vaguely period. Indeed, they are fairly period! And one can get all the bits and bobs for a rebuild if necessary.

I bought one on eBay. A 17ACR.It would work fine for about 5 minutes then my ammeter would go off the clock. But it was cheap to buy  - ?16:55 - and very cheap to fix.

They come left or right handed but can be swapped around.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 07 July 2019 12:42
To: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Hummingybe

 

Price--

 

I went through a series of NAPA alternators, all defective out of the box, until I finally got my money back and bought a Leece-Neville/Prestolite unit which has given me about 15 years of trouble-free service.  One of its nice features is that it has a modular external voltage regulator and changing it would probably take no more than five minutes.

 

Best--Michael Oritt 

 

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 9:11 PM jim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Maybe a picture  will help ...The only path for current to flow is through the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...

 

Jim

 

On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com <mailto:050.rpl at gmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.

 

When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly.  

 

Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered.  

 

This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?

 

Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.

 

Price Lindsay

67 BJ8

 

Sent from my iPad

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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Sun Jul  7 16:23:41 2019
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 18:23:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.

How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?   I don't
want to add to the issues I may run into.

I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.

Thanks,

Fred
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul  7 17:21:49 2019
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 23:21:49 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] '98 Conclave Grille Badge
Message-ID: <20190707.192149.13581.0@webmail03.dca.untd.com>

In cleaning up my 'everything' room in preparation to list our house, I found an NOS grille badge, honoring Donald Healey, from the '98 Conclave. Complete in the original box. If you have an interest, please contact me off the list. Thanks. Cheers,Doug
____________________________________________________________
Drink This Before Bed, Watch Your Body Fat Melt Like Crazy
medjournal.com-publish.net
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5d227ead238dc7eac089est03duc
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul  7 18:24:31 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 17:24:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <75b94b4a-76ce-0e52-63e8-b81b8b30b7fa@comcast.net>

Don't the BJ8s use the same kind of pop-in/out clips as the door panel?? 
If so, they can be levered out carefully.

On 7/7/2019 3:23 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.
>
> How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?? ?I 
> don't want to add to the issues I may run into.
>
> I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>

From 3000mk3 at bighealey.org  Sun Jul  7 18:52:15 2019
From: 3000mk3 at bighealey.org (3000mk3 at bighealey.org)
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 2019 00:52:15 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Alternator_Is_=E2=80=9CHummingybe?=
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Yo6P+PxV+Bj_b6B87-=cMWK_UX_JVhc3Vw2aG9GWmEw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <611D8762-560B-4CA4-B761-D11713208248@gmail.com>
 <1725660093.2284935.1562375454270@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Yo6P+PxV+Bj_b6B87-=cMWK_UX_JVhc3Vw2aG9GWmEw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6fed46f319e54e828399a6beddbfdc1c@bighealey.org>

I've (and others) have been using the NAPA alternator (in my case RAY2134011 remanufactured not repaired.
Remanufactured is where they go through everything, repaired is where they just replace the part that went wrong 

Can I ask which one you've used?

Tom Mitchell
Ann Arbor, Mi
BJ8

----------------------------------------
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: 7/7/19 7:42 AM
To: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Alternator Is ?Hummingybe
Price--

I went through a series of NAPA alternators, all defective out of the box, until I finally got my money back and bought a Leece-Neville/Prestolite unit which has given me about 15 years of trouble-free service.  One of its nice features is that it has a modular external voltage regulator and changing it would probably take no more than five minutes.

Best--Michael Oritt 

On Fri, Jul 5, 2019 at 9:11 PM jim via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Maybe a picture  will help ...The only path for current to flow is through the 'Rotor' winding via the regulator...

Jim

On Friday, July 5, 2019, 10:04:29 PM UTC, R. Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:

I have been trying to find the source of a parasitic draw of power from my battery for the past several weeks.  FWIW, I have lost 0.75 volts on the charge over the last 4 days.  This seems like a lot.

When I remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery (its a negative ground car) connect one end of my ammeter onto the negative terminal on the battery and the other end to the cable removed from the battery, the ammeter (set to read current of less than 10A) does not register a draw.  However, when I use a 12 volt light and connect it to the same points`, the light goes on ever so slightly. 

Today I noticed a very faint humming from the alternator and it was a little warmer to the touch than the other parts of the engine. When I disconnect the alternator from the solenoid, the humming went away and when I tested it with the light the light did not light up - no draw.  I can?t see anywhere else the draw could be coming from.  I?ve pulled all the fuses one by one to see if there is power being drawn from each circuit - with the alternator hooked up, there is no draw registered. 

This is the second new alternator I?ve had on the car in the last 60 days.  I had the issue before I exchanged the old alternator and the problem continued when I installed it.  Could it be another bad alternator??  Are alternators exceptionally sensitive or just not made very well these days?

Thank you for any light that can be shed on this.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

Sent from my iPad
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul  7 20:26:18 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 22:26:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLcfujbNAXk59DRkHxj=CtqY71ZZ4DUDZsZQkXwFzUygQ@mail.gmail.com>

If by kick panels you mean the panels on the outsides on each footwell they
are secured with small cs Phillips screws.
The passenger's side of a L H drive car is a bit weird in that it has a
large cut out in it and under the cut out, glued to the steel panel, is a
piece of vinal  ...  never been really sure why but that is how it is.
M

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 6:23 PM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.
>
> How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?   I don't
> want to add to the issues I may run into.
>
> I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul  7 21:01:48 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 7 Jul 2019 20:01:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLcfujbNAXk59DRkHxj=CtqY71ZZ4DUDZsZQkXwFzUygQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLcfujbNAXk59DRkHxj=CtqY71ZZ4DUDZsZQkXwFzUygQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E4DF820AF4424ABC83D1E585E8DCC6F0@AllInOne>

The story I was told about the cut out in kick panel on the RHS is to allow
more clearance for the gas pedal for right hand drive cars.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Salter
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2019 7:26 PM
To: Fred Wescoe
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kick panels


If by kick panels you mean the panels on the outsides on each footwell they
are secured with small cs Phillips screws. 
The passenger's side of a L H drive car is a bit weird in that it has a
large cut out in it and under the cut out, glued to the steel panel, is a
piece of vinal  ...  never been really sure why but that is how it is.
M

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 6:23 PM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:


Listers, 

I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.

How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?   I don't
want to add to the issues I may run into.  

I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.

Thanks,

Fred
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul  8 05:31:16 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 07:31:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <E4DF820AF4424ABC83D1E585E8DCC6F0@AllInOne>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLcfujbNAXk59DRkHxj=CtqY71ZZ4DUDZsZQkXwFzUygQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <E4DF820AF4424ABC83D1E585E8DCC6F0@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKxcuhe6J+NHSf2J7Z1bK1GHem+-LqWfFLHvo3buMmrcg@mail.gmail.com>

Clearance for the throttle pedal does sound reasonable to me.

M

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 11:01 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> The story I was told about the cut out in kick panel on the RHS is to
> allow more clearance for the gas pedal for right hand drive cars.
>
> Harold
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Sunday, July 07, 2019 7:26 PM
> *To:* Fred Wescoe
> *Cc:* healeys
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kick panels
>
> If by kick panels you mean the panels on the outsides on each footwell
> they are secured with small cs Phillips screws.
> The passenger's side of a L H drive car is a bit weird in that it has a
> large cut out in it and under the cut out, glued to the steel panel, is a
> piece of vinal  ...  never been really sure why but that is how it is.
> M
>
> On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 6:23 PM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.
>>
>> How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?   I
>> don't want to add to the issues I may run into.
>>
>> I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Fred
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul  8 10:07:57 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 09:07:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKxcuhe6J+NHSf2J7Z1bK1GHem+-LqWfFLHvo3buMmrcg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLcfujbNAXk59DRkHxj=CtqY71ZZ4DUDZsZQkXwFzUygQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <E4DF820AF4424ABC83D1E585E8DCC6F0@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7LKxcuhe6J+NHSf2J7Z1bK1GHem+-LqWfFLHvo3buMmrcg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0dd001d535a7$508d8480$f1a88d80$@roadrunner.com>

Clearance is what I understand as well.  This is so stated in either (sorry for not verifying) Clausager?s or Moment/Anderson?s book, as I recall.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 4:31 AM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kick panels

 

Clearance for the throttle pedal does sound reasonable to me. 

 

M

 

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 11:01 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > wrote:

The story I was told about the cut out in kick panel on the RHS is to allow more clearance for the gas pedal for right hand drive cars.

 

Harold

 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2019 7:26 PM
To: Fred Wescoe
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kick panels

If by kick panels you mean the panels on the outsides on each footwell they are secured with small cs Phillips screws. 

The passenger's side of a L H drive car is a bit weird in that it has a large cut out in it and under the cut out, glued to the steel panel, is a piece of vinal  ...  never been really sure why but that is how it is.

M

 

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 6:23 PM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com <mailto:fredwescoe at gmail.com> > wrote:

Listers, 

 

I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.

 

How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?   I don't want to add to the issues I may run into.  

 

I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.

 

Thanks,

 

Fred

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Mon Jul  8 14:16:50 2019
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 16:16:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Alternators
Message-ID: <D34D5939-D04D-4AAD-AB2E-2B00A6DC65F5@gmail.com>

Has anyone had experience with Tuff Stuff or Powermaster alternators?  They?re listed by Summitt Racing. 

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

From john at jtkarowe.com.au  Mon Jul  8 15:27:29 2019
From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 07:27:29 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Kick panels
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKxcuhe6J+NHSf2J7Z1bK1GHem+-LqWfFLHvo3buMmrcg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4y_UATevOC7cZwzi+vvvvGN-P5a_yHYPRsFJA+VVfWJg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6QNgnXTefNt9M8KVOGdXbX2ONiD3krAJA7uuGPAgBJow@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V6qU9YrPT8fLW_mn9kOWuzxaQXxQJS6yFEY2qPv9Whg8A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V7GoB0K6pg7iWdUZLMw5FkR+SahQec+RfKsxsRMpkc6pw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4++5Bkb8SpQVSDiHhF8Ywg1si=YfW6VS_uPCTnZxpFDg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V4y5Lxk1wz_W1FjqmigNweaVPCR7F1ZO2fobsnfpOznfA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V774Q3+nwh01JkiyZt6dGzBEN3ALzzrHz1cjZPszK-nZA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPAC+V5A-BkPUhYCikA2FCb1aARt-gGukmcXddhDuGUGuRg_iA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLcfujbNAXk59DRkHxj=CtqY71ZZ4DUDZsZQkXwFzUygQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <E4DF820AF4424ABC83D1E585E8DCC6F0@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7LKxcuhe6J+NHSf2J7Z1bK1GHem+-LqWfFLHvo3buMmrcg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001801d535d3$f36aec20$da40c460$@com.au>

Owning a RHD BT7, I can confirm that that is what it is for. It is fairly tight in that area. When building mine, I glued carpet behind the cutout instead of leather

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Monday, 8 July 2019 9:31 PM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kick panels

 

Clearance for the throttle pedal does sound reasonable to me. 

 

M

 

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 11:01 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

The story I was told about the cut out in kick panel on the RHS is to allow more clearance for the gas pedal for right hand drive cars.

 

Harold

 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Sunday, July 07, 2019 7:26 PM
To: Fred Wescoe
Cc: healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kick panels

If by kick panels you mean the panels on the outsides on each footwell they are secured with small cs Phillips screws. 

The passenger's side of a L H drive car is a bit weird in that it has a large cut out in it and under the cut out, glued to the steel panel, is a piece of vinal  ...  never been really sure why but that is how it is.

M

 

On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 6:23 PM Fred Wescoe, <fredwescoe at gmail.com> wrote:

Listers, 

 

I need to replace or possibly recover/redo the kick panels in my 66 BJ8.

 

How do I remove the kick panels without doing additional damage?   I don't want to add to the issues I may run into.  

 

I would appreciate info and or pictures anyone can forward.

 

Thanks,

 

Fred

_______________________________________________
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From wwycoffbn7 at aol.com  Mon Jul  8 15:55:01 2019
From: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com (wwycoffbn7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 21:55:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>



Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air filters with K&N units.?

?

Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.? They vary in depth with two pancake units of?1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.

?

K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in. diameter.

?

I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and what to avoid.? Thanks, Bill
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Mon Jul  8 17:31:34 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 16:31:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
In-Reply-To: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud.

You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather holes.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org




From: wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.



Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air filters with K&N units. 



Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.  They vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.



K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in. diameter.



I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and what to avoid.  Thanks, Bill



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul  8 18:26:04 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 8 Jul 2019 17:26:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
In-Reply-To: <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <104701d535ec$e671a860$b354f920$@roadrunner.com>

You can also modify the front filter to offset it so that it mounts closer to the carb.  This was engineered by Steve Gerow.  It?s a bit of work.  I used this on my car with good results though I used a dryer vent clamp for my ring rather than aluminum window flashing as per Steve?s plans?it was already the right width.  See attached for Steve?s plans and a photo of the finished back side of the housing.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 4:32 PM
To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud.

 

You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather holes.

 

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org> 

 

 

 

From: wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  

Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM

To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  

Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

 

Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air filters with K&N units. 

 

Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.  They vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.

 

K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in. diameter.

 

I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and what to avoid.  Thanks, Bill

  _____  

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From schottc at knology.net  Tue Jul  9 12:39:37 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 14:39:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
In-Reply-To: <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <777193461.2455072.1562697577839.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

David, 

I'm still looking for the front part of a chassis for my friend's AH 100. Does the place in Australia make just the front section? Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "David Nock" <healeydoc at gmail.com> 
To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, July 8, 2019 6:31:34 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000. 

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud. 
You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather holes. 
David Nock 
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 
209 948 8767 
www.britishcarspecialists.com 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at. 
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org 
From: wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys 
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000. 



Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air filters with K&N units. 



Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000. They vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one tapered 2 1/5 in. deep. 



K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in. diameter. 



I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and what to avoid. Thanks, Bill 



_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com 


_______________________________________________ 
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Suggested annual donation $12.75 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul  9 12:55:16 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2019 11:55:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Front Hub Question
Message-ID: <mailman.14.1562698520.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

I am now at the point in my BN2 front suspension assembly of installing the front hubs.? I am converting to 3000 disc brakes.? I have enough on my plate trying to figure out end float on the tapered bearings, but I need a picture of everything else behind the rotor.? One thing I don't have is backing plates, but I'm not sure they are absolutely necessary.? I just need to see how all the parts to mount the calipers and brake lines is put together.? Having a BN2 all I have for a reference is the IPB in the Moss catalog.? Kind of in the dark here.? Just installed taper bearings on my Bugeye, so it must be a similar exercise.?Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
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From banjojohn at cox.net  Tue Jul  9 13:14:36 2019
From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 14:14:36 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
Message-ID: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>

I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several 
years, based on recommendations from this forum.? I bought several 
bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I ordered 
more.? The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 gallons (use 
1 oz. per gallon)? The new bottles say the 12 oz. bottle treats 25 
gallons.? Did they change the product or change the recommended usage 
rate on the same product? I suppose I should follow the new recommended 
usage rate, but it made the stuff more expensive to use.? Anyone have 
any insight or suggestions?? Or is there a new greatest and best lead 
substitute i should be using instead?

John O'Brien

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

'61 Bugeye (Lucy)


From banjojohn at cox.net  Tue Jul  9 13:28:10 2019
From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 14:28:10 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] source for keys?
Message-ID: <6edb2253-e1a5-bf0c-ca41-a1517a40cd7f@cox.net>

Hi guys and gals.

I thought someone listed a source for keys for doors, ignition, etc., 
but I can't find it.? My ignition key on my BJ8 only fits the ignition, 
it has a number stamped on it, and the glove box has a different 
number.? I can't see any numbers on the door locks or boot lid.? I'm 
wondering (hoping) that a key for the glove box might also fit the doors 
and boot lid, but no telling for sure. Anyway, is there someone that can 
sell me a key based on the number on the glove box?

John O'Brien

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

'61 Bugeye (Lucy)



From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul  9 13:32:06 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 21:32:06 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
In-Reply-To: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
References: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
Message-ID: <e36b685f-cb51-6f1f-a82f-2b149154f2c0@chello.nl>

That is called marketing. I very much doubt if you should use any at all.

Kees Oudesluijs




Op 9-7-2019 om 21:14 schreef John O'Brien:
> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several 
> years, based on recommendations from this forum.? I bought several 
> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I 
> ordered more.? The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 
> gallons (use 1 oz. per gallon)? The new bottles say the 12 oz. bottle 
> treats 25 gallons.? Did they change the product or change the 
> recommended usage rate on the same product? I suppose I should follow 
> the new recommended usage rate, but it made the stuff more expensive 
> to use.? Anyone have any insight or suggestions?? Or is there a new 
> greatest and best lead substitute i should be using instead?
>
> John O'Brien
>
> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>
> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com


From bluehealey at gmail.com  Tue Jul  9 13:41:08 2019
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 20:41:08 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
In-Reply-To: <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <002a01d5368e$41e59ac0$c5b0d040$@gmail.com>

Team.

It worked for me.

K&N Filters Part #56-9247 has a plain (undrilled) mounting plate. The holes can then be drilled to suit the carbs and miss the shroud. The rear filter on Bluehealey is extra low to clear the gas strut, but doesn?t need to be if using a prop rod.

The filters are 6? diameter and 2?? depth.

Whilst on the tools, captive (stainless) nuts can be welded on the inside of the mounting plate and also a short stub tube to take the breather.

See pic:



Good luck.

AlanB

Bluehealey.com

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: 09 July 2019 00:32
To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud.

 

You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather holes.

 

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org

 

 

 

From: wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  

Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM

To: healeys at autox.team.net 

Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

 

Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air filters with K&N units. 

 

Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.  They vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.

 

K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in. diameter.

 

I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and what to avoid.  Thanks, Bill

  _____  

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul  9 13:52:35 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 21:52:35 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] source for keys?
In-Reply-To: <6edb2253-e1a5-bf0c-ca41-a1517a40cd7f@cox.net>
References: <6edb2253-e1a5-bf0c-ca41-a1517a40cd7f@cox.net>
Message-ID: <9351d01c-667c-a95a-60a5-0503e8a8f7a3@chello.nl>

If you google car keys Austin-Healey several suppliers will be found, e.g.:

https://www.key2code.co.uk/store/p1230/Classic_Austin_Healey_car_keys_cut_to_code.html#/


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 9-7-2019 om 21:28 schreef John O'Brien:
> Hi guys and gals.
>
> I thought someone listed a source for keys for doors, ignition, etc., 
> but I can't find it.? My ignition key on my BJ8 only fits the 
> ignition, it has a number stamped on it, and the glove box has a 
> different number.? I can't see any numbers on the door locks or boot 
> lid.? I'm wondering (hoping) that a key for the glove box might also 
> fit the doors and boot lid, but no telling for sure. Anyway, is there 
> someone that can sell me a key based on the number on the glove box?
>
> John O'Brien
>
> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>
> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com


From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Tue Jul  9 14:14:09 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 16:14:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] source for keys?
In-Reply-To: <6edb2253-e1a5-bf0c-ca41-a1517a40cd7f@cox.net>
References: <6edb2253-e1a5-bf0c-ca41-a1517a40cd7f@cox.net>
Message-ID: <0d9b01d53692$dfc459d0$9f4d0d70$@rr.com>

Pete Groh is the key man, but I haven't heard from in a good while.  
pete_groh at yahoo.com

Edward Grochowina
9957 Frederick Rd 
Ellicott City, Md. 21042-3647 U.S.A.
Phone 410 750-2352 (recorder)

Original ignition key also operated the door locks.  Original glove box keys also operated the boot lock.  The boot lock number is marked on the square shank of the lock handle.  It should be the same as the glove box lock number unless the locks have been changed.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John O'Brien
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 3:28 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] source for keys?

Hi guys and gals.

I thought someone listed a source for keys for doors, ignition, etc., 
but I can't find it.  My ignition key on my BJ8 only fits the ignition, 
it has a number stamped on it, and the glove box has a different 
number.  I can't see any numbers on the door locks or boot lid.  I'm 
wondering (hoping) that a key for the glove box might also fit the doors 
and boot lid, but no telling for sure. Anyway, is there someone that can 
sell me a key based on the number on the glove box?

John O'Brien

'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)

'61 Bugeye (Lucy)


_______________________________________________
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From banjojohn at cox.net  Tue Jul  9 15:38:31 2019
From: banjojohn at cox.net (John O'Brien)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 16:38:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
In-Reply-To: <e36b685f-cb51-6f1f-a82f-2b149154f2c0@chello.nl>
References: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
 <e36b685f-cb51-6f1f-a82f-2b149154f2c0@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <95d44618-124c-694f-3abb-1fcacb90725f@cox.net>

Follow up - I found a phone number for Redline on the older bottle and 
called them.? The guy I talked to said the new stuff is not as 
concentrated as the older formula, so you need to use more.? The UPC 
code is the same, so they tried to hide the fact that they made it less 
concentrated.? Kinda disappointed in that but at least I know.? Just 
thought I'd share that in case anyone else is using it, and hadn't 
noticed the change.

Kees, I use it to try to reduce valve seat wear, since my car has not 
had the valve seats changed to hardened.? Some folks on this list 
recommended this product as being the best choice at the time.? I'm just 
trying to make the engine and head last as long as possible with minimal 
rebuild expense.? Do you think there is any harm in using it?

John

On 7/9/2019 2:32 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> That is called marketing. I very much doubt if you should use any at all.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
> Op 9-7-2019 om 21:14 schreef John O'Brien:
>> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several 
>> years, based on recommendations from this forum.? I bought several 
>> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I 
>> ordered more.? The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 
>> gallons (use 1 oz. per 10 gallon)? The new bottles say the 12 oz. 
>> bottle treats 25 gallons.? Did they change the product or change the 
>> recommended usage rate on the same product? I suppose I should follow 
>> the new recommended usage rate, but it made the stuff more expensive 
>> to use.? Anyone have any insight or suggestions?? Or is there a new 
>> greatest and best lead substitute i should be using instead?
>>
>> John O'Brien
>>
>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>
>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>
> ---
> Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
> http://www.avg.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net
>

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jul  9 17:27:19 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 16:27:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
In-Reply-To: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
References: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-mG01+6VUm_pyBpu8nenf5QEJBg6MRfm0Mgj=346ZxYA@mail.gmail.com>

I buy 10 gallons of low lead no ethonal aviation fuel and mix it with un
leaded fuel 1 to 4
But I really dont see a need unless you put a ton of miles on your car
every year.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Tue, Jul 9, 2019, 12:17 PM John O'Brien <banjojohn at cox.net> wrote:

> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several
> years, based on recommendations from this forum.  I bought several
> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I ordered
> more.  The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 gallons (use
> 1 oz. per gallon)  The new bottles say the 12 oz. bottle treats 25
> gallons.  Did they change the product or change the recommended usage
> rate on the same product? I suppose I should follow the new recommended
> usage rate, but it made the stuff more expensive to use.  Anyone have
> any insight or suggestions?  Or is there a new greatest and best lead
> substitute i should be using instead?
>
> John O'Brien
>
> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>
> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul  9 20:43:37 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Tue, 09 Jul 2019 19:43:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pic
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1562726637.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul  9 21:15:13 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 03:15:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Unexpected Outcome
References: <320855269.55321.1562728514749.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <320855269.55321.1562728514749@mail.yahoo.com>

My emergency brake that I had re-chromed so beautifully is just another job that does not turn out like you expect.? This brake lever I had re-chromed turned out to be for installation on the left side of the tunnel.? On a BN2 the emergency brake lever goes on the passenger side!?? I though all I have to do is get a ratchet plate for the correct side and put it back together.? Not so.? (Thank you Michael Salter for listing the ratchet plate on Canadian Ebay)?? A got a big dose of reality when I discovered it was not just the ratchet plate that makes this a left side lever.? The arm that is "keyed" to the lever shaft in the red line in the picture is where it should be for a right side of tunnel lever.? The actuating wire had to be bent in the opposite direction because the pawl was flipped over to the other side of the lever.? The arrows show the direction of the cable to apply the brake.? With a left side brake lever, it is relatively easy to connect the cable.? Now because of the brake lever pulling up in the opposite direction, the cable does not reach the arm.? The red line shows where the arm should be to reach the expensive emergency brake cable assembly.? Just can't win for losing.? Anyone have an emergency brake lever for the right side of the tunnel they want to sell?? 
Mike MacLeanP.S. Disregard the picture I sent with no red marks on it.? That was supposed to come to me for making up.? Another senior moment I guess.
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 10 01:21:36 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 09:21:36 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
In-Reply-To: <95d44618-124c-694f-3abb-1fcacb90725f@cox.net>
References: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
 <e36b685f-cb51-6f1f-a82f-2b149154f2c0@chello.nl>
 <95d44618-124c-694f-3abb-1fcacb90725f@cox.net>
Message-ID: <16d43c50-ad34-a8e6-4eca-3c9f65aa4125@chello.nl>

The harm it does is to the wallet. When you drive normally it is very 
likely you will not notice any wear to the valve seats. It may help in 
extreme circumstances but even then I have my doubts. The industry 
earned billions from the scare they introduced when leaded petrol was 
phased out. In the end it was only a handful of cars that had problems 
with valve seat wear. Even lead substitute could not prevent that.

I do not think this stuff will harm the engine.


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 9-7-2019 om 23:38 schreef John O'Brien:
> Follow up - I found a phone number for Redline on the older bottle and 
> called them.? The guy I talked to said the new stuff is not as 
> concentrated as the older formula, so you need to use more.? The UPC 
> code is the same, so they tried to hide the fact that they made it 
> less concentrated.? Kinda disappointed in that but at least I know.? 
> Just thought I'd share that in case anyone else is using it, and 
> hadn't noticed the change.
>
> Kees, I use it to try to reduce valve seat wear, since my car has not 
> had the valve seats changed to hardened.? Some folks on this list 
> recommended this product as being the best choice at the time.? I'm 
> just trying to make the engine and head last as long as possible with 
> minimal rebuild expense.? Do you think there is any harm in using it?
>
> John
>
> On 7/9/2019 2:32 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>> That is called marketing. I very much doubt if you should use any at 
>> all.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 9-7-2019 om 21:14 schreef John O'Brien:
>>> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several 
>>> years, based on recommendations from this forum.? I bought several 
>>> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I 
>>> ordered more.? The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 
>>> gallons (use 1 oz. per 10 gallon)? The new bottles say the 12 oz. 
>>> bottle treats 25 gallons.? Did they change the product or change the 
>>> recommended usage rate on the same product? I suppose I should 
>>> follow the new recommended usage rate, but it made the stuff more 
>>> expensive to use.? Anyone have any insight or suggestions?? Or is 
>>> there a new greatest and best lead substitute i should be using 
>>> instead?
>>>
>>> John O'Brien
>>>
>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>
>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>
>>
>> ---
>> Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
>> http://www.avg.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net
>>

From paull at glasgows.co.uk  Wed Jul 10 04:13:27 2019
From: paull at glasgows.co.uk (Paul Leeks)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 11:13:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
Message-ID: <CAKv9UdRxzYKRSStBN-fpC9R3Gc7a=X8XfkQPtGg0-49Rg71mSQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi John

For what it's worth, I used lead substitute for a few years but, after
being told it didn't really do a lot, I just reverted to Super Unleaded (I
think 97/98 RON instead of 95 RON) which seems to be just fine.

Cheers

Paul
BN4 00/6
UK

-- 


EMAIL DISCLAIMER
Any opinions expressed in this email are those of the 
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Jul 10 07:48:00 2019
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 09:48:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dealers VS private sale-non-Healey
Message-ID: <739015D6-1854-43C5-9CF3-B02092616852@rogers.com>

Hi listers,

Just thought I?d see if you had noticed the same phenomenon that I have.
In the old days, most people buying a second hand car would rather purchase from an individual because we didn?t trust the dealers. That sentiment seems to have flipped around so that the general public are very suspicious of private sellers and would rather go with a dealer who may offer some kind of limited guarantee.
My Dad has had to give up his licence and has asked me to help him sell his car- a 2018 Toyota Yaris with 5,000 Klms?.pretty damn low mileage, huh? Well, so far I?ve only received nuisance calls, absolutely no serious enquiries, and compared to most ads for a similar car, it?s priced a little under the trend.
The same thing happened to me a couple of years ago when I went to sell a Ford Transit Connect privately?no joy, I still have the van- my wife wanted to keep it anyway.

It seems that, classic cars excepted, the private sale is slowly becoming a thing of the past.

Stephen, BJ8

PS- seeing as how I?ve owned my Healey since 1975, I doubt I?ll ever be offering it up for sale.

From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jul 10 08:21:40 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 08:21:40 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
In-Reply-To: <16d43c50-ad34-a8e6-4eca-3c9f65aa4125@chello.nl>
References: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
 <e36b685f-cb51-6f1f-a82f-2b149154f2c0@chello.nl>
 <95d44618-124c-694f-3abb-1fcacb90725f@cox.net>
 <16d43c50-ad34-a8e6-4eca-3c9f65aa4125@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <9a59d425-e3d9-9efb-2d96-46c2324d57fd@porterscustom.com>

... valve jobs used to be the bread and butter job for repair shops.. I 
haven't seen one since the introduction of unleaded fuels. lead was the 
problem. DaveP

On 7/10/2019 1:21 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> The harm it does is to the wallet. When you drive normally it is very 
> likely you will not notice any wear to the valve seats. It may help in 
> extreme circumstances but even then I have my doubts. The industry 
> earned billions from the scare they introduced when leaded petrol was 
> phased out. In the end it was only a handful of cars that had problems 
> with valve seat wear. Even lead substitute could not prevent that.
>
> I do not think this stuff will harm the engine.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 9-7-2019 om 23:38 schreef John O'Brien:
>> Follow up - I found a phone number for Redline on the older bottle 
>> and called them.? The guy I talked to said the new stuff is not as 
>> concentrated as the older formula, so you need to use more.? The UPC 
>> code is the same, so they tried to hide the fact that they made it 
>> less concentrated.? Kinda disappointed in that but at least I know. 
>> Just thought I'd share that in case anyone else is using it, and 
>> hadn't noticed the change.
>>
>> Kees, I use it to try to reduce valve seat wear, since my car has not 
>> had the valve seats changed to hardened.? Some folks on this list 
>> recommended this product as being the best choice at the time.? I'm 
>> just trying to make the engine and head last as long as possible with 
>> minimal rebuild expense.? Do you think there is any harm in using it?
>>
>> John
>>
>> On 7/9/2019 2:32 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>> That is called marketing. I very much doubt if you should use any at 
>>> all.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 9-7-2019 om 21:14 schreef John O'Brien:
>>>> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several 
>>>> years, based on recommendations from this forum.? I bought several 
>>>> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I 
>>>> ordered more.? The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 
>>>> gallons (use 1 oz. per 10 gallon)? The new bottles say the 12 oz. 
>>>> bottle treats 25 gallons.? Did they change the product or change 
>>>> the recommended usage rate on the same product? I suppose I should 
>>>> follow the new recommended usage rate, but it made the stuff more 
>>>> expensive to use.? Anyone have any insight or suggestions?? Or is 
>>>> there a new greatest and best lead substitute i should be using 
>>>> instead?
>>>>
>>>> John O'Brien
>>>>
>>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>>
>>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
>>> http://www.avg.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 10 09:19:36 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 11:19:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
In-Reply-To: <9a59d425-e3d9-9efb-2d96-46c2324d57fd@porterscustom.com>
References: <a639e908-a3b6-2073-361d-ee270f6d7475@cox.net>
 <e36b685f-cb51-6f1f-a82f-2b149154f2c0@chello.nl>
 <95d44618-124c-694f-3abb-1fcacb90725f@cox.net>
 <16d43c50-ad34-a8e6-4eca-3c9f65aa4125@chello.nl>
 <9a59d425-e3d9-9efb-2d96-46c2324d57fd@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKm7T7SCwzeksc-mNXmZGfva8pC9XYZ2kCC9d45Quuybw@mail.gmail.com>

What David P says is absolutely true...



On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 10:21 AM David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

> ... valve jobs used to be the bread and butter job for repair shops.. I
> haven't seen one since the introduction of unleaded fuels. lead was the
> problem. DaveP
>
> On 7/10/2019 1:21 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> > The harm it does is to the wallet. When you drive normally it is very
> > likely you will not notice any wear to the valve seats. It may help in
> > extreme circumstances but even then I have my doubts. The industry
> > earned billions from the scare they introduced when leaded petrol was
> > phased out. In the end it was only a handful of cars that had problems
> > with valve seat wear. Even lead substitute could not prevent that.
> >
> > I do not think this stuff will harm the engine.
> >
> >
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> >
> >
> >
> > Op 9-7-2019 om 23:38 schreef John O'Brien:
> >> Follow up - I found a phone number for Redline on the older bottle
> >> and called them.  The guy I talked to said the new stuff is not as
> >> concentrated as the older formula, so you need to use more.  The UPC
> >> code is the same, so they tried to hide the fact that they made it
> >> less concentrated.  Kinda disappointed in that but at least I know.
> >> Just thought I'd share that in case anyone else is using it, and
> >> hadn't noticed the change.
> >>
> >> Kees, I use it to try to reduce valve seat wear, since my car has not
> >> had the valve seats changed to hardened.  Some folks on this list
> >> recommended this product as being the best choice at the time.  I'm
> >> just trying to make the engine and head last as long as possible with
> >> minimal rebuild expense.  Do you think there is any harm in using it?
> >>
> >> John
> >>
> >> On 7/9/2019 2:32 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> >>> That is called marketing. I very much doubt if you should use any at
> >>> all.
> >>>
> >>> Kees Oudesluijs
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Op 9-7-2019 om 21:14 schreef John O'Brien:
> >>>> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several
> >>>> years, based on recommendations from this forum.  I bought several
> >>>> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I
> >>>> ordered more.  The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120
> >>>> gallons (use 1 oz. per 10 gallon)  The new bottles say the 12 oz.
> >>>> bottle treats 25 gallons.  Did they change the product or change
> >>>> the recommended usage rate on the same product? I suppose I should
> >>>> follow the new recommended usage rate, but it made the stuff more
> >>>> expensive to use.  Anyone have any insight or suggestions?  Or is
> >>>> there a new greatest and best lead substitute i should be using
> >>>> instead?
> >>>>
> >>>> John O'Brien
> >>>>
> >>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
> >>>>
> >>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
> >>>>
> >>>> _______________________________________________
> >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>>>
> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>>>
> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>>>
> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> ---
> >>> Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
> >>> http://www.avg.com
> >>>
> >>> _______________________________________________
> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>>
> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >>> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>>
> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>>
> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net
> >>>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
> >
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Wed Jul 10 09:45:22 2019
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (R F BEGANI)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 11:45:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] lead substitute question
Message-ID: <7jahwyrjn28e2erd5o84g2xx.1562773522672@email.android.com>

Gasoline has come a long way since lead was banned largely due to exhaust emissions controls which has difficulty functioning due to deposits. The chemicals being used today especially Top Tier fuels  have dual functions of keeping the upper cylinder area clean and lubricated  besides down stream exhaust Most of us agree from our experience. Nevertheless, the will always be exceptions. 

Bob Begani

On July 10, 2019, at 10:22 AM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

... valve jobs used to be the bread and butter job for repair shops.. I 
haven't seen one since the introduction of unleaded fuels. lead was the 
problem. DaveP

On 7/10/2019 1:21 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> The harm it does is to the wallet. When you drive normally it is very 
> likely you will not notice any wear to the valve seats. It may help in 
> extreme circumstances but even then I have my doubts. The industry 
> earned billions from the scare they introduced when leaded petrol was 
> phased out. In the end it was only a handful of cars that had problems 
> with valve seat wear. Even lead substitute could not prevent that.
>
> I do not think this stuff will harm the engine.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 9-7-2019 om 23:38 schreef John O'Brien:
>> Follow up - I found a phone number for Redline on the older bottle 
>> and called them.? The guy I talked to said the new stuff is not as 
>> concentrated as the older formula, so you need to use more.? The UPC 
>> code is the same, so they tried to hide the fact that they made it 
>> less concentrated.? Kinda disappointed in that but at least I know. 
>> Just thought I'd share that in case anyone else is using it, and 
>> hadn't noticed the change.
>>
>> Kees, I use it to try to reduce valve seat wear, since my car has not 
>> had the valve seats changed to hardened.? Some folks on this list 
>> recommended this product as being the best choice at the time.? I'm 
>> just trying to make the engine and head last as long as possible with 
>> minimal rebuild expense.? Do you think there is any harm in using it?
>>
>> John
>>
>> On 7/9/2019 2:32 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>> That is called marketing. I very much doubt if you should use any at 
>>> all.
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Op 9-7-2019 om 21:14 schreef John O'Brien:
>>>> I have been using Redline Lead Substitute in my Healeys for several 
>>>> years, based on recommendations from this forum.? I bought several 
>>>> bottles a few years ago, and am getting close to being out, so I 
>>>> ordered more.? The old bottles said a 12 oz. bottle would treat 120 
>>>> gallons (use 1 oz. per 10 gallon)? The new bottles say the 12 oz. 
>>>> bottle treats 25 gallons.? Did they change the product or change 
>>>> the recommended usage rate on the same product? I suppose I should 
>>>> follow the new recommended usage rate, but it made the stuff more 
>>>> expensive to use.? Anyone have any insight or suggestions?? Or is 
>>>> there a new greatest and best lead substitute i should be using 
>>>> instead?
>>>>
>>>> John O'Brien
>>>>
>>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>>
>>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>>
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
>>> http://www.avg.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn at cox.net
>>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Wed Jul 10 12:59:46 2019
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 14:59:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
Message-ID: <5d2634e5.1c69fb81.a57ff.932e@mx.google.com>

Anyone planning on attending? 11th thru 14th??????. https://pittrace.com/ 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul 10 14:59:41 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 20:59:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Finale to the E-Brake Saga
References: <1502929681.61394.1562792382020.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1502929681.61394.1562792382020@mail.yahoo.com>

OK, the corrected picture in this email shows where the small arm is supposed to be.? Because the shaft below it is "keyed", taking the e-brake handle from the left side of the tunnel to the right side has it angled in the wrong direction.? It will not reach the cable clevis this way.? Today I took it to a machine shop that specializes in welding.? They are going to mill out the two welds holding the shaft in place, turn it 90 degrees and weld it back down.? When I decided to make a left side e-brake handle into a right side handle who knew the can of worms it would open.? I thought the ratchet plate was all I needed.? Everything needed to be flipped in the opposite direction to work.? Turns out the Spridget e-brake handle is mounted on the left side of the tunnel.? All this because I had it re-chromed already.Mike MacLean
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From watterbury at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 10 16:39:29 2019
From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 22:39:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1210.1562792393.2437.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1210.1562792393.2437.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <520532642.90592.1562798369638@mail.yahoo.com>

 The best day IMHO is Saturday, July 20th in Schenley Park.??Great car show plus vintage racing.??Usually a good Healey turnout.
Bill
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 14:59:46 -0400
From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
Message-ID: <5d2634e5.1c69fb81.a57ff.932e at mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Anyone planning on attending? 11th thru 14th??????. https://pittrace.com/ 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul 10 17:18:59 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 23:18:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Hub Nut Wrench
References: <470262653.125575.1562800739518.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <470262653.125575.1562800739518@mail.yahoo.com>

The hub nut wrench I ordered came in today.? It's heavy stainless steel.? The guy that makes them says it works better if the brake shoes are removed.? Then you can give a good whack or two.Mike MacLean
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Jul 11 00:29:52 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 07:29:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Finale to the E-Brake Saga
In-Reply-To: <1502929681.61394.1562792382020@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1502929681.61394.1562792382020.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1502929681.61394.1562792382020@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000501d537b2$0d862860$28927920$@alexarevel.plus.com>

This saga reminded me, rather obliquely, of the occasional opportunities for the LHD guys that crop up on UK eBay. I refer to the guys over here that are converting repatriated LHDs to RHDs. Steering components, dashboards etc?..these are pretty much useless to us and seem to be sold for peanuts. 

Shipping needn?t be an issue if the vendor can be prised away from couriers and induced to use Royal Mail. The latter is normally much cheaper and just as quick. And they are much more gullible insofar as you can declare practically any value without fear of contradiction.

Just a thought and one which you all probably had years ago.

Something more for people engaged in long-term projects rather than the ?Need it now? types. Like me, except I usually needed it yesterday.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: 10 July 2019 22:00
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Finale to the E-Brake Saga

 

OK, the corrected picture in this email shows where the small arm is supposed to be.  Because the shaft below it is "keyed", taking the e-brake handle from the left side of the tunnel to the right side has it angled in the wrong direction.  It will not reach the cable clevis this way.  Today I took it to a machine shop that specializes in welding.  They are going to mill out the two welds holding the shaft in place, turn it 90 degrees and weld it back down.  When I decided to make a left side e-brake handle into a right side handle who knew the can of worms it would open.  I thought the ratchet plate was all I needed.  Everything needed to be flipped in the opposite direction to work.  Turns out the Spridget e-brake handle is mounted on the left side of the tunnel.  All this because I had it re-chromed already.

Mike MacLean

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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Thu Jul 11 03:08:38 2019
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 05:08:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
In-Reply-To: <520532642.90592.1562798369638@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.1210.1562792393.2437.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <520532642.90592.1562798369638@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5d26fbd9.1c69fb81.aa7f8.27ba@mx.google.com>

Agreed. Pitt Raceway is one of many venues involved. A excellent relatively new designated race track added to the many fine events leading up to Schenley Park.  https://www.pvgp.org/#

WD  67 BJ8


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: William Atterbury via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 6:39 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS

The best day IMHO is Saturday, July 20th in Schenley Park.??
Great car show plus vintage racing.??
Usually a good Healey turnout.

Bill

Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 14:59:46 -0400
From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
Message-ID: <5d2634e5.1c69fb81.a57ff.932e at mx.google.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Anyone planning on attending? 11th thru 14th??????. https://pittrace.com/ 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From flyhihealey at gmail.com  Thu Jul 11 04:40:49 2019
From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 06:40:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] .....transition to fully electric vehicles
Message-ID: <5d271174.1c69fb81.74407.3fbb@mx.google.com>

Non Healey but food for thought?????????? 
http://www.autoextremist.com/

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul 11 05:18:20 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 07:18:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Message-ID: <002b01d537da$65ff5c50$31fe14f0$@rr.com>

Was watching an old sci-fi movie on TCM (Earth vs. The Flying Saucers) this
morning while having my morning coffee.  As the scientist rushed out to save
the world, he jumped into his '54 Mercury and there in the background was
the nose of a Healey Hundred.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry            

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Jul 11 05:54:57 2019
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 07:54:57 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
In-Reply-To: <5d26fbd9.1c69fb81.aa7f8.27ba@mx.google.com>
References: <mailman.1210.1562792393.2437.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <520532642.90592.1562798369638@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5d26fbd9.1c69fb81.aa7f8.27ba@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <1004116128.1391084.1562846097089.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Having attended all but one PVGP in 30 years, I can attest to the excitement and downright car-lovers dream that it provides.  There are week long activities culminating with race weekend.  Sat is the car shows (many many different ones and motorcycles), and the race time trials.  Sunday is race day.  It is a true car happening that has to be one of the best in the country.If you can make it----do yourself a favor and come on down:)tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
To: William Atterbury <watterbury at yahoo.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 05:08:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS

<!--

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-->Agreed. Pitt Raceway is one of many venues involved. A excellent relatively new designated race track added to the many fine events leading up to Schenley Park.  https://www.pvgp.org/# WD  67 BJ8  Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: William Atterbury via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 6:39 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS The best day IMHO is Saturday, July 20th in Schenley Park.  Great car show plus vintage racing.  Usually a good Healey turnout. Bill Date: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 14:59:46 -0400From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICSMessage-ID: <5d2634e5.1c69fb81.a57ff.932e at mx.google.com>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Anyone planning on attending? 11th thru 14th??????. https://pittrace.com/  Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part --------------An HTML attachment was scrubbed...URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190710/f1e2e409/attachment-0001.html>   
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Jul 11 05:56:58 2019
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 07:56:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS
In-Reply-To: <5d2634e5.1c69fb81.a57ff.932e@mx.google.com>
References: <5d2634e5.1c69fb81.a57ff.932e@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <503558057.1400650.1562846218138.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

ME!!  I'll attend the Black Tie and Tails event---the Homestead car cruise and the Sat and Sunday race events.Wouldn't miss it.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Warren <flyhihealey at gmail.com>
To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, 10 Jul 2019 14:59:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] PITTSBURGH VINTAGE GRAND PRIX HISTORICS

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  9 08:59:23 2019
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Tue, 9 Jul 2019 07:59:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
In-Reply-To: <104701d535ec$e671a860$b354f920$@roadrunner.com>
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
 <104701d535ec$e671a860$b354f920$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <6FAB48AD031E49E2BD8305BF3BFF3A66@DavidNockHP>

The 1.75 MGB K&N Tapered Filters Moss # 222-995 will fit perfectly with one slight modification to the front filter.


David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Bruce Steele 
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 5:26 PM
To: 'David Nock' ; wwycoffbn7 at aol.com ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

You can also modify the front filter to offset it so that it mounts closer to the carb.  This was engineered by Steve Gerow.  It?s a bit of work.  I used this on my car with good results though I used a dryer vent clamp for my ring rather than aluminum window flashing as per Steve?s plans?it was already the right width.  See attached for Steve?s plans and a photo of the finished back side of the housing.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 4:32 PM
To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud.

 

You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather holes.

 

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org

 

 

 

From: wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys 

Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM

To: healeys at autox.team.net 

Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

 

Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air filters with K&N units. 

 

Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.  They vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.

 

K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in. diameter.

 

I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and what to avoid.  Thanks, Bill


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Jul 11 08:06:22 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 07:06:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
In-Reply-To: <002a01d5368e$41e59ac0$c5b0d040$@gmail.com>
References: <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1132621129.2933358.1562622901183@mail.yahoo.com>
 <DEBE8FF911FF4E038A32D8D831A23719@DavidNockHP>
 <002a01d5368e$41e59ac0$c5b0d040$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A24BD726310D44419DD864B24D71A1D5@AllInOne>

I agree with K&N 56-9247. Fit the filters so they clear and use the old
filter back plate as a template for the holes. The attached drawing should
be the layout but double check.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bluehealey
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 12:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.



Team.

It worked for me.

K&N Filters Part #56-9247 has a plain (undrilled) mounting plate. The holes
can then be drilled to suit the carbs and miss the shroud. The rear filter
on Bluehealey is extra low to clear the gas strut, but doesn?t need to be if
using a prop rod.

The filters are 6? diameter and 2?? depth.

Whilst on the tools, captive (stainless) nuts can be welded on the inside of
the mounting plate and also a short stub tube to take the breather.

See pic:



Good luck.

AlanB

Bluehealey.com

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Nock
Sent: 09 July 2019 00:32
To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud.

 

You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the
front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather
holes.

 

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org

 

 

 

From: wwycoffbn7---  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> via Healeys 

Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM

To: healeys at autox.team.net 

Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

 

Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air
filters with K&N units. 

 

Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.  They
vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one
tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.

 

K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in.
diameter.

 

I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and
what to avoid.  Thanks, Bill

  _____  

_______________________________________________
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From healey100m at me.com  Thu Jul 11 08:41:39 2019
From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 10:41:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 100 17L reproduction Lucas batteries available
 again
Message-ID: <61F556B3-73AB-4158-9BC4-7E3BE91ACE52@me.com>

From Roger Moment and the Austin Healey Concours Registry:

"Reproductions of the LUCAS 17L 6-volt batteries used in Healey 100s are now available again, after a 4-year absence. Jim Irwin, the new owner of Jim?s Battery Manufacturing Co. (previously the Antique Battery Mfg. Co.), is now taking orders for this size battery. It has a 6-volt maintenance-free battery (you never need to add water or acid) contained inside the reproduction LUCAS 17L case that had been available since the 1990s. It has the LUCAS fill caps (which are now just for show), but if you remove the end ones you?ll see cable connections to the internal battery. Holes at the ends of the top are for original mounting hold-down hardware."

More details and photos on the Concours Registry web site:  https://austinhealeyconcoursregistry.org

Info is under Technical Information > News. 

Randy
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Jul 11 14:18:58 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 13:18:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
Message-ID: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>

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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Thu Jul 11 14:37:52 2019
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 16:37:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <029B48C2-DE6C-40F8-9646-6B2940C8472A@rogers.com>

If it makes you feel any better, my BJ8 bump stop boxes were way off too.
Along with a lot of other parts.
The cars were hand built, yes, but we are restoring cars that have been around a long time and have probably lost some of their original specs!
As they say in French- Bon courage!

Stephen, BJ8

PS, my car is ?finished ? but I still have the occasional rant myself.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 11, 2019, at 4:18 PM, Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
> Mike MacLean
> <BN2Before2.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
> 


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jul 11 14:38:40 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 16:38:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand
why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right.
My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and
trying to make it work.
I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so
doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...

I feel your pain.

M

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

> I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.
> He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.
> Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are
> easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning
> I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.
> None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the
> rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the
> bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step
> of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told
> me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go
> ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to
> understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and
> inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to
> accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against
> the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 11 15:47:12 2019
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 21:47:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <MWHPR2201MB15680561B261BFAE2C6D980CD1F30@MWHPR2201MB1568.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,
If you have the old parts and they are too rusted to be used, sometimes it pays to make them yourself and drill the holes exactly where they need to be, it?s time consuming but it fits right the first time.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
Mike MacLean
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Jul 11 15:53:37 2019
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick Quinn)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 07:53:37 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
In-Reply-To: <002b01d537da$65ff5c50$31fe14f0$@rr.com>
References: <002b01d537da$65ff5c50$31fe14f0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <9474C656-5A64-476D-B498-B26E533E04F2@tpg.com.au>

Hello Steve

Saw the same film about a year back.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn 
Australia 

Sent from my iPhone

> On 11 Jul 2019, at 9:18 pm, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> Was watching an old sci-fi movie on TCM (Earth vs. The Flying Saucers) this morning while having my morning coffee.  As the scientist rushed out to save the world, he jumped into his '54 Mercury and there in the background was the nose of a Healey Hundred.
>  
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry           
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC 
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
> 
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Jul 11 16:19:06 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 15:19:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR2201MB15680561B261BFAE2C6D980CD1F30@MWHPR2201MB1568.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <87454b33-0d2e-4b41-bfa9-da34a4e91b46@email.android.com>

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From schottc at knology.net  Thu Jul 11 16:48:21 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 18:48:21 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Mike, 

That's a very aggressive project you're undertaking. Here is what my 100 BN1 looked like when I got it. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant? 

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me. He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100. Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install. Nothing fits like it was made for the car. This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle. None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle. I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in. This car is fighting me every step of the way. I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live". I am beginning to understand what he meant. Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back. Rant over. 
Mike MacLean 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 


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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu Jul 11 19:12:38 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 21:12:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
In-Reply-To: <9474C656-5A64-476D-B498-B26E533E04F2@tpg.com.au>
References: <002b01d537da$65ff5c50$31fe14f0$@rr.com>
 <9474C656-5A64-476D-B498-B26E533E04F2@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZftxR0qyo8-hjY7HU38tmXR9uq3bMbjvQVz8seApPyQWg@mail.gmail.com>

I have a number of Healey clips on my YouTube channel.  Here's Earth vs.
Flying Saucers:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIzl7tV6g3s

Rick Neville

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019 at 5:54 PM Patrick Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> Hello Steve
>
> Saw the same film about a year back.
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
> Australia
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On 11 Jul 2019, at 9:18 pm, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Was watching an old sci-fi movie on TCM (Earth vs. The Flying Saucers)
> this morning while having my morning coffee.  As the scientist rushed out
> to save the world, he jumped into his '54 Mercury and there in the
> background was the nose of a Healey Hundred.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/p_cquinn at tpg.com.au
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Jul 11 21:10:58 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 03:10:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <87454b33-0d2e-4b41-bfa9-da34a4e91b46@email.android.com>
References: <MWHPR2201MB15680561B261BFAE2C6D980CD1F30@MWHPR2201MB1568.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>,
 <87454b33-0d2e-4b41-bfa9-da34a4e91b46@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB2878F6037D9C2EA419D01AD3A5F20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,

My car has been off the road for 4 years and I am finally planning to get it into paint it this weekend. It isn't just new parts or re-pops that can vary in dimension even used or NOS parts are sometimes wrong. The fact that these cars were "hand built" and the suppliers at the time were a little sloppy with their tolerances means that any job is going to be as much a matter of luck as skill. I read or heard somewhere that Jensens had piles of panels next to their assembly line and that as the chassis came down the line they would test fit panels until they found an acceptable match. Parts like the cockpit surrounds, bonnets and deck lids were hand fitted to each car and number stamped to avoid having them mixed up. Parts from one car may have a completely different fit than those from another. Oh well, If it were easy a Ford mechanic could do it...

Congratulations on your retirement. If I had known how much I would enjoy it I would have done that first.


Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 10:19 PM
To: Jean Caron
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

Jean,
     Believe me when I say, restored old parts or NOS parts are my first choice.  Sometimes fiddling with a repop to make it fit is less work than making the part.  It seems any reproduction part needs to be "adjusted" to fit.  If I had a swear jar in the garage, I wouldn't have enough money left for food during the last week of the month.  I get my retirement income on the first.
Mike


On Jul 11, 2019 2:47 PM, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

Mike,

If you have the old parts and they are too rusted to be used, sometimes it pays to make them yourself and drill the holes exactly where they need to be, it?s time consuming but it fits right the first time.



Jean



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10



________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
Mike MacLean

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From ynotink at msn.com  Thu Jul 11 21:15:04 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 03:15:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>,
 <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB287845321A4702807CAA6FCAA5F20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Yours could be just as aggressive. The condition of the chassis is what makes the difference.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 10:48 PM
To: Mike MacLean
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

Mike,

That's a very aggressive project you're undertaking. Here is what my 100 BN1 looked like when I got it.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

________________________________
From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
Mike MacLean

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Jul 11 22:41:21 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 21:41:21 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>

Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.

I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right. 

My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.

I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...

 

I feel your pain.

 

M

 

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.

Mike MacLean

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From gmolony1 at bigpond.com  Fri Jul 12 01:41:07 2019
From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 17:41:07 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] .....transition to fully electric vehicles
In-Reply-To: <5d271174.1c69fb81.74407.3fbb@mx.google.com>
References: <5d271174.1c69fb81.74407.3fbb@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <307311BCAEE848F48B4CA7CB0CC9E6CF@msiallinone>

Warren

We had a well qualified English Automotive journalist  who has live on 3 continents and has owned and driven electric vehicles
since the early 1970?s  as a guest speaker to a lunch i organised for about 150 Classic Car guys at a luncheon about 2 weeks
ago

He essentially expressed the same opinions as Peter Delorenzo during that presentation.

If I was to summarise his presentation in a few words it was ? You Got to Be Dreaming ? it?s not going to happen particularly
in large countries like the USA and Australia where people think nothing of driving large distances.

He did concede that Hybrids once they get the costs under control would probably have a better future but the demands
of having and all electric car society were so prohibitive both in efficiency, cost etc. were prohibitive.

Hydrogen power is another alternative but again it has got along way to go.

I think we can look forward to driving our Healey?s for a long time yet

Just my thoughts

Cheers
Graeme M

From: Warren 
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 8:40 PM
To: Healey List 
Subject: [Healeys] .....transition to fully electric vehicles

Non Healey but food for thought?????????? 

http://www.autoextremist.com/

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From waschu2 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 07:42:34 2019
From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 09:42:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ8 Speedometer
Message-ID: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>

Hi,


 ???????????? Does anyone have a used BJ8 speedometer they would like to 
sell?? The face should read SN 6125/22??? Mine has? seized input bearings:(

 ?????????????????????????????????????????? Thanks

 ??????????????????????????????????????? ?? Wayne


From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 10:49:34 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 09:49:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN4 grille
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-p7v01TA0GxMcZrW-6_Oe47JgpnMofS5e7rUscsMe6Hw@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all
Finally going to reinstall my grille, but its been many years since
removing it.
Does anyone have instructions on how to install the three pieces in correct
order?
Thanks

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 12 10:53:37 2019
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 09:53:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ8 Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>
References: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C41312DC8AB43DAAFD57CF927674666@DavidNockHP>

The easiest is to have  you speedo rebuilt. Usually if you find a used one 
it will most likely need rebuilt as well.




David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
-----Original Message----- 
From: Wayne
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 6:42 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ8 Speedometer

Hi,


              Does anyone have a used BJ8 speedometer they would like to
sell?  The face should read SN 6125/22    Mine has  seized input bearings:(

                                            Thanks

                                            Wayne

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jul 12 14:16:04 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 13:16:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
Message-ID: <mailman.17.1562962569.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.? Does the flexible brake line connect directly to the caliper?? I see a short brake pipe with fittings in the illustrations in catalogs.? Does this short brake line go between the flex line and the caliper?? I might ask more questions at a later date.Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
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From rd_parker at juno.com  Fri Jul 12 15:52:40 2019
From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 14:52:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
Message-ID: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>

Gentlemen,

Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big healey gear
box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?

Bob.
1961 BT7.

____________________________________________________________
1 Weird Trick That "Forces" Your Eye To 20/20 Vision -Try It
Igenics
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5d29014b2cb8714b7955st03vuc

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 15:56:38 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 17:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ8 Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>
References: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJUWLg_WCiSFy2RNSs_n+AhuFyWeSiKrkYC0yBp5Hs5ZA@mail.gmail.com>

One here:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-MkIII-BJ8-Speedometer-MPH-w-Overdrive-BHA4429/303124034602?hash=item469399b42a:g:eSAAAOSwUnJcr8JI

M

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019, 9:42 AM Wayne, <waschu2 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>               Does anyone have a used BJ8 speedometer they would like to
> sell?  The face should read SN 6125/22    Mine has  seized input bearings:(
>
>                                             Thanks
>
>                                             Wayne
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 16:05:21 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 18:05:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+ZxSEoSTAEbs5ChKVTNShRRj5AbhAaiN0ZSfehg8sZfw@mail.gmail.com>

They aren't that difficult as gearboxes go BUT if you haven't done a few
gearboxes you will struggle a fair bit.

M

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019, 5:53 PM , <rd_parker at juno.com> wrote:

> Gentlemen,
>
> Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big healey gear
> box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
>
> Bob.
> 1961 BT7.
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> 1 Weird Trick That "Forces" Your Eye To 20/20 Vision -Try It
> Igenics
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5d29014b2cb8714b7955st03vuc
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 16:24:15 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 18:24:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
In-Reply-To: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
References: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to
the rubber brake hose.

Rick

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 4:16 PM rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big
> Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.  Does the flexible brake
> line connect directly to the caliper?  I see a short brake pipe with
> fittings in the illustrations in catalogs.  Does this short brake line go
> between the flex line and the caliper?  I might ask more questions at a
> later date.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From john at jtkarowe.com.au  Fri Jul 12 17:50:26 2019
From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 09:50:26 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
 <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001501d5390c$95632070$c0296150$@com.au>

?The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to the rubber brake hose? which join at a bracket mounted to a suspension part IIRC.

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2019 8:24 AM
To: rrengineer.mike
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly

 

Mike,

 

The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to the rubber brake hose.

 

Rick

 

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 4:16 PM rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.  Does the flexible brake line connect directly to the caliper?  I see a short brake pipe with fittings in the illustrations in catalogs.  Does this short brake line go between the flex line and the caliper?  I might ask more questions at a later date.

Mike MacLean

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone

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From dirk.e.maier at t-online.de  Thu Jul 11 12:27:04 2019
From: dirk.e.maier at t-online.de (Dirk Maier)
Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 20:27:04 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.
Message-ID: <006901d53816$3da6b870$b8f42950$@t-online.de>

Dear Harold,

 

Thank you very much for sharing the template drawing with us. That?s very
useful for someone like me who is currently facing the same challenge.

 

Kind regards from Germany,

Dirk

 

Von: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> Im Auftrag von Harold Manifold
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 11. Juli 2019 16:06
An: 'Bluehealey' <bluehealey at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

I agree with K&N 56-9247. Fit the filters so they clear and use the old
filter back plate as a template for the holes. The attached drawing should
be the layout but double check.

 

Harold

 

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bluehealey
Sent: Tuesday, July 09, 2019 12:41 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Cc: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com <mailto:wwycoffbn7 at aol.com> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

Team.

It worked for me.

K&N Filters Part #56-9247 has a plain (undrilled) mounting plate. The holes
can then be drilled to suit the carbs and miss the shroud. The rear filter
on Bluehealey is extra low to clear the gas strut, but doesn?t need to be if
using a prop rod.

The filters are 6? diameter and 2?? depth.

Whilst on the tools, captive (stainless) nuts can be welded on the inside of
the mounting plate and also a short stub tube to take the breather.

See pic:



Good luck.

AlanB

Bluehealey.com

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Nock
Sent: 09 July 2019 00:32
To: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com <mailto:wwycoffbn7 at aol.com> ; healeys at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

They will not fit between the front carb and the shroud.

 

You can install the 1.75 Tapered filters 222-995 for the MGB. Then turn the
front one upside down and drill two holes in the plate for the breather
holes.

 

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
<http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org> 

 

 

 

From: wwycoffbn7--- via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  

Sent: Monday, July 08, 2019 2:55 PM

To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  

Subject: [Healeys] K&N air filters for an early 3000.

 

 

Living in a dusty area (dirt roads), I am thinking about replacing stock air
filters with K&N units. 

 

Moss has three possible filters for the 1.75 in., twin-carb, ?59 3000.  They
vary in depth with two pancake units of 1? in. deep and 3 in. deep and one
tapered 2 1/5 in. deep.

 

K&N recommends 56-9247 that is a pancake being 2 in. deep and 6 in.
diameter.

 

I would appreciate any input regarding what has worked well for folks and
what to avoid.  Thanks, Bill

  _____  

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 12 09:29:15 2019
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 15:29:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>

Yup, fully agree with the rant:

The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com<mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>> wrote:

Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right.
My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.
I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...

I feel your pain.

M

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
Mike MacLean
______________________________________________
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jul 12 14:43:50 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 20:43:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>

 ???? As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.? He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.? If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.? Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.? S???? So, I guess you get what you pay for.Mike MacLean

    On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Yup, fully agree with the rant:
The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.

Regards,Richard CBN7 440
On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:



#yiv0907245582 #yiv0907245582 -- _filtered #yiv0907245582 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv0907245582 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv0907245582 {panose-1:2 11 6 3 2 2 2 2 2 4;}#yiv0907245582 #yiv0907245582 p.yiv0907245582MsoNormal, #yiv0907245582 li.yiv0907245582MsoNormal, #yiv0907245582 div.yiv0907245582MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv0907245582 a:link, #yiv0907245582 span.yiv0907245582MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0907245582 a:visited, #yiv0907245582 span.yiv0907245582MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0907245582 span.yiv0907245582EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv0907245582 span.yiv0907245582EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0907245582 .yiv0907245582MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv0907245582 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv0907245582 div.yiv0907245582WordSection1 {}#yiv0907245582 
Amen to that.? The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.? In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.? I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.? After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.
 
 ?
 
Bruce Steele
 
Brea, CA
 
1960 BN7
 
 ?
 
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
 
 ?
 
Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
 
I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right.?
 
My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.
 
I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...
 
 ?
 
I feel your pain.
 
 ?
 
M
 
 ?
 
On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
 

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.? He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.? Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.? Nothing fits like it was made for the car.? This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.? None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.? I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.? This car is fighting me every step of the way.? I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".? I am beginning to understand what he meant.? Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.? Rant over.
 
Mike MacLean
 
______________________________________________


  
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Fri Jul 12 15:11:11 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 14:11:11 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0da001d538f6$56991180$03cb3480$@roadrunner.com>

I?ve been told the same thing.  I?ll give a shout out to Dave Nock here.  My practice is to go through Dave because he?s always steered me to the best, or at least the better, quality parts available.  And I?ve plumbed his inventory of used and NOS many times.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 1:44 PM
To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

     As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.  S

     So, I guess you get what you pay for.

Mike MacLean

 

On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Yup, fully agree with the rant: 

 

The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 440


On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.

I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right. 

My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.

I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...

 

I feel your pain.

 

M

 

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.

Mike MacLean

______________________________________________

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Jul 12 19:49:55 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 21:49:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Rant_-_Parts_don=E2=80=99t_fit?=
Message-ID: <AF43FFEF-A3D9-425A-BC36-7242466A2187@aol.com>

Mike
I truly understand your pain. The real issue is that we all have the opinion that things should fit properly or be readily available or not cost an arm and a leg.....add the other possible thoughts here. 

The early Healeys were hand built, panels hand fit, and only selected suppliers providing the parts to the factory, and many of them didn?t fit. 

Couple the change in mindset in paragraph one with the changes in the assembly process in paragraph two and we are where you are at now. 

I have been doing this for 54 years and have had my hands on 100?s of Healeys and have given up on the easy way of approaching the repair and restoration of these cars and settled on the hard way for these cars being the norm. 

Let me know if I can help long distance. 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Jul 12 19:55:10 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 01:55:10 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?Rant_-_Parts_don=E2=80=99t_fit?=
In-Reply-To: <AF43FFEF-A3D9-425A-BC36-7242466A2187@aol.com>
References: <AF43FFEF-A3D9-425A-BC36-7242466A2187@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1387318797.1191440.1562982910184@mail.yahoo.com>

Another point to consider which no one has mentioned.? We have all become spoiled by the computer designed/laser cut/robot assembled cars of today.? Just my .01Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 12, 2019 9:51 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Rant - Parts don?t fit

Mike
I truly understand your pain. The real issue is that we all have the opinion that things should fit properly or be readily available or not cost an arm and a leg.....add the other possible thoughts here. 

The early Healeys were hand built, panels hand fit, and only selected suppliers providing the parts to the factory, and many of them didn?t fit. 

Couple the change in mindset in paragraph one with the changes in the assembly process in paragraph two and we are where you are at now. 

I have been doing this for 54 years and have had my hands on 100?s of Healeys and have given up on the easy way of approaching the repair and restoration of these cars and settled on the hard way for these cars being the norm. 

Let me know if I can help long distance. 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 12 20:07:10 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 19:07:10 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <57b0b7d0-9887-4f1f-6ad9-ade2dfcf8b20@comcast.net>

Well, since we're sharing 'baby pictures,' here's one of the BN2 my dad 
found in the local newspaper's classifieds.? He got a pretty good deal 
on it.

Bob

On 7/11/2019 3:48 PM, Charles Schott wrote:
> Mike,
>
> That's a very aggressive project you're undertaking. Here is what my 
> 100 BN1 looked like when I got it.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
>
> I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told 
> me.? He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do 
> a 100.? Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for 
> my BN2 are easy to install.? Nothing fits like it was made for the 
> car.? This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop 
> boxes over the rear axle.? None of the holes in the part lined up with 
> the holes in the body above the rear axle.? I will have to auger out 
> at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts 
> in.? This car is fighting me every step of the way.? I guess it's like 
> my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that 
> rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it 
> will give you a reason to live".? I am beginning to understand what he 
> meant.? Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse 
> words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish 
> something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the 
> wall, I keep coming back.? Rant over.
> Mike MacLean
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Jul 12 20:15:35 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 02:15:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <57b0b7d0-9887-4f1f-6ad9-ade2dfcf8b20@comcast.net>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <57b0b7d0-9887-4f1f-6ad9-ade2dfcf8b20@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <776727009.1230135.1562984135374@mail.yahoo.com>

WOW? But I hope he got an allowance for the missing headlight rim.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jul 12, 2019 10:08 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 Well, since we're sharing 'baby pictures,' here's one of the BN2 my dad found in the local newspaper's classifieds.? He got a pretty good deal on it. Bob
  On 7/11/2019 3:48 PM, Charles Schott wrote:
  
 
 Mike, 
  That's a very aggressive project you're undertaking. Here is what my 100 BN1 looked like when I got it. 
  Regards, 
  Charlie Schott 
   From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
 To: healeys at autox.team.net
 Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM
 Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
 
  I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.? He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.? Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.? Nothing fits like it was made for the car.? This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.? None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.? I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.? This car is fighting me every step of the way.? I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".? I am beginning to understand what he meant.? Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.? Rant over. Mike MacLean  
   _______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 12 20:32:34 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 19:32:34 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>

I did it last year (gearbox + OD).? There are lots of helpful videos on 
the 'net, esp. Magnus Karlsson's:

http://healeyspecialists.com/videos/

Plus, a lot of people on this list and various forums were helpful as 
well.? For the most part, there are no 'special tools' required (mostly, 
just a selection of big hammers ;).

There are a few gotchas, if you endeavor to undertake this, I would be 
glad to fill you in on what I learned (the hard ways ;)).

Bob

On 7/12/2019 2:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big healey gear
> box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
>
> Bob.
> 1961 BT7.
>
>
>

From manifold at telus.net  Sat Jul 13 09:36:59 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 08:36:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ8 Speedometer
In-Reply-To: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>
References: <d1e8d12f-d700-616b-9e65-f3e8a5ad22ca@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E55CED8545334C9A9B22CE715482BC39@AllInOne>

Oliver Bienz will rebuild as good as new. See attached PDF.

Harold

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 6:43 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Need BJ8 Speedometer

Hi,


 ???????????? Does anyone have a used BJ8 speedometer they would like to
sell?? The face should read SN 6125/22??? Mine has? seized input bearings:(

 ?????????????????????????????????????????? Thanks

 ??????????????????????????????????????? ?? Wayne

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$12.75

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From britfan1 at epix.net  Sat Jul 13 15:30:41 2019
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S. Carr)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 17:30:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CA2BC9527BAE419CA4EEFF4721A9351B@HomePC>

I?m going to show this series of laments to the man who?s taken over the restoration of my BN1 from the previous shop (its owner died last year).  I had no idea, when I found the car in the local estate sale ads, what was hidden under four layers of paint and pounds of Bondo.  Now I know why there was no front splash pan on the car?it was obviously biffed in the nose at least once....  The new guy is a bit rusty on body work (his rod & custom days being long behind him) but we?re both frustrated that NOTHING seems to fit!  Thank heavens the previous shop finished all the structural repairs (the usual outriggers & outer sills).  The new lower nose repair panel from AH Spares doesn?t begin to suit an original splash pan I bought, and is wider than the existing nose.  Shop owner rants every time I phone or go see him.  Maybe knowing he?s got lots of company will be a bit comforting!
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA
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From larry at patersondesign.ca  Sat Jul 13 15:40:23 2019
From: larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 15:40:23 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <CA2BC9527BAE419CA4EEFF4721A9351B@HomePC>
Message-ID: <6de54107-81b2-493d-8a71-736ce2311bb1@email.android.com>

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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Jul 13 20:46:41 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 19:46:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Installing Rear Spring Bush
Message-ID: <4899D9F756F64D9D9C0A32EA0DC4281D@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
Any suggestions or tips on installing new 
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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Jul 13 20:50:18 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 19:50:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Spring Bushes
Message-ID: <175338A5A14E4FA0882873A96615B0CA@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
Any suggestions or tips on installing new rear spring bushes? The new bushes
seem to be much larger that the hole in the chassis bracket. Picture of
bushes attached.
 
Thanks,
 
Harold
 
 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 06:04:41 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 08:04:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Spring Bushes
In-Reply-To: <175338A5A14E4FA0882873A96615B0CA@AllInOne>
References: <175338A5A14E4FA0882873A96615B0CA@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL8wDoREby5yrnGLaVnGz+O2sPRFjZcLJ7v8mqFkm6wFw@mail.gmail.com>

The bushes should be made of iron and be only 1 or 2 thou larger than the
ID of the tube.
Easily installed using a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and a couple of nuts.
More reproduction parts problems maybe?
M

On Sat, Jul 13, 2019, 10:55 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Any suggestions or tips on installing new rear spring bushes? The new
> bushes seem to be much larger that the hole in the chassis bracket. Picture
> of bushes attached.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Harold
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jul 14 07:03:47 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 09:03:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Marty Jansen
Message-ID: <697B3515-1EE3-4CD4-8A9A-6DEDD9DF40C8@aol.com>

I heard the Martin passed. Any info available? 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone

From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 08:37:20 2019
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 09:37:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Martin Jansen
In-Reply-To: <004a01d53a4f$fe4faec0$faef0c40$@roadrunner.com>
References: <1059677986.523787.1563061479399.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1059677986.523787.1563061479399@mail.yahoo.com>
 <004a01d53a4f$fe4faec0$faef0c40$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjqnwLCjd4u+MePf7w6nqTp-S6gJKGna1kp_TR2NZ4yiog@mail.gmail.com>

Just received this about Martin from the President of the AHCA.

[image: Inline image]

*It is with deep sadness that we announce the passing of our dear Marty on
Friday, July 12, 2019, in the comfort of his own home surrounded by his
loving family. Marty is survived by his beloved wife of 40 years, Gayle and
his children, Joel (Lisa) and Katie. Dear son-in-law of Howard Bonham.
Forever missed by his best friend Charli. Marty was the proud business
owner and founder of Jule Enterprises which fostered him many friendships
in the Austin Healey community. *

*Family and friends are invited to visit at the McKersie-Kocher Funeral
Home 114 Main St. E. Milton, on. 905-878-4452 from 6-9Pm on Tuesday, July
16, 2019, Service to be held on Wednesday, July 17 time and place to be
announced at a later time followed by burial at Trafalgar Lawn Cemetery.
Reception to follow at St. Volodymyr Cultural **C**entre 1280 Dundas St. W.
Oakville, L6M 4H9. *

*As expressions of sympathy memorial donations in memory of Marty to Halton
Children's Aid Foundation, or Trillium Health Partners Cardiac Surgical
unit, or Carlo Fidani Regional Cancer Centre, or One Roof Youth Homeless
shelter in Kitchener would be appreciated by the family. *

*Letters of Condolence shared stories and memorial donations may be left
for the family online at www.mckersie-kocher.ca
<http://www.mckersie-kocher.ca>*







<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
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From jwhlyadv at aol.com  Sun Jul 14 08:39:17 2019
From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 14:39:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Marty Jansen
In-Reply-To: <697B3515-1EE3-4CD4-8A9A-6DEDD9DF40C8@aol.com>
References: <697B3515-1EE3-4CD4-8A9A-6DEDD9DF40C8@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1612604247.1632402.1563115157019@mail.yahoo.com>

>From the AHCA Facebook Page. We are going to miss him.
It is with deep sadness that we announce the passing of our dear Marty on Friday, July 12, 2019, in the comfort of his own home surrounded by his loving family. Marty is survived by his beloved wife of 40 years, Gayle and his children, Joel (Lisa) and Katie. Dear son-in-law of Howard Bonham. Forever missed by his best friend Charli. Marty was the proud business owner and founder of Jule Enterprises which fostered him many friendships in the Austin Healey community.?
Family and friends are invited to visit at the McKersie-Kocher Funeral Home 114 Main St. E. Milton, on. 905-878-4452 from 6-9Pm on Tuesday, July 16, 2019, Service to be held on Wednesday, July 17 time and place to be announced at a later time followed by burial at Trafalgar Lawn Cemetery. Reception to follow at St. Volodymyr Cultural Centre 1280 Dundas St. W. Oakville, L6M 4H9.?
As expressions of sympathy memorial donations in memory of Marty to Halton Children's Aid Foundation, or Trillium Health Partners Cardiac Surgical unit, or Carlo Fidani Regional Cancer Centre, or One Roof Youth Homeless shelter in Kitchener would be appreciated by the family.?


-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 14, 2019 9:04 am
Subject: [Healeys] Marty Jansen

I heard the Martin passed. Any info available? 
Perry

Sent from my iPhone
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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Fri Jul 12 19:38:20 2019
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 21:38:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3DA30C05-6CB5-4D0C-BCFB-285CBE5F88C4@yahoo.com>

When I bought front and rear bumpers for my 67 BJ-8 from Moss . I had a show coming up and I needed them quick . Well they weren?t even close to fitting. When I called Moss back , the salesman said , when you ordered them , didn?t the salesman tell you they will need to modified to fit ? Sent them back , ordered a new set from AH Spares . Fit first time . 
           Don , 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 12, 2019, at 4:43 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
>      As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.  S
>      So, I guess you get what you pay for.
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Yup, fully agree with the rant:
> 
> The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> 
> On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.
> 
>  
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
>  
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
> To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
> 
>  
> 
> Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
> 
> I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right. 
> 
> My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.
> 
> I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...
> 
>  
> 
> I feel your pain.
> 
>  
> 
> M
> 
>  
> 
> On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> ______________________________________________
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 20:03:17 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 19:03:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <0da001d538f6$56991180$03cb3480$@roadrunner.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
 <0da001d538f6$56991180$03cb3480$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <6ECE05E1-9ED3-46D9-A3B2-16B00F721B6B@gmail.com>

This an issue I deal with everyday. The bumper iron you got probably came from England and yes they are a poor quality. I have them from Kilmartin and the fit. They also cost probably 30 percent more. 

You want a real issue the rubber parts that rot away in less than a year without the car ever being out in the sun. I have a better quality one and they are twice the price. Then some people complain at the cost. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 12, 2019, at 2:11 PM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> I?ve been told the same thing.  I?ll give a shout out to Dave Nock here.  My practice is to go through Dave because he?s always steered me to the best, or at least the better, quality parts available.  And I?ve plumbed his inventory of used and NOS many times.
>  
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>  
> From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
> Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 1:44 PM
> To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
> Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
>  
>      As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.  S
>      So, I guess you get what you pay for.
> Mike MacLean
>  
> On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> Yup, fully agree with the rant:
>  
> The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> 
> On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:
> 
> Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.
> 
>  
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
>  
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
> To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
> 
>  
> 
> Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
> 
> I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right. 
> 
> My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.
> 
> I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...
> 
>  
> 
> I feel your pain.
> 
>  
> 
> M
> 
>  
> 
> On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> ______________________________________________
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Jul 12 22:13:27 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 21:13:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
 <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQkznBUVZfbZ6QDTOJ5iunNb_bnbxGCCG6na_Z90LR8fA@mail.gmail.com>

Didn't mess with it as haven't rebuilt one for 45 years.  My Sprite
gearboxes (a Smoothcase with Ribcase internals, and a Ribcase) went to Dave
Hubbard North of LA, one of the best in the USA if not the world and
*inexpensive*. $650 USD for the Ribcase rebuild and that included the
core!  My original numbered Smoothcase with NOS Ribcase internals was
around $900 USD total complete!!!

Dave only works for people he likes and that come highly recommended, so
don't ask.

BN1 and a BN2 to Eric Grunden of Absolutely British.  Definitely NOT
inexpensive but worth every penny!  $5K+ for each.  Both are like new with
a lot of NOS parts!

I'm getting too old for this.

Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 7:33 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I did it last year (gearbox + OD).  There are lots of helpful videos on
> the 'net, esp. Magnus Karlsson's:
>
> http://healeyspecialists.com/videos/
>
> Plus, a lot of people on this list and various forums were helpful as
> well.  For the most part, there are no 'special tools' required (mostly,
> just a selection of big hammers ;).
>
> There are a few gotchas, if you endeavor to undertake this, I would be
> glad to fill you in on what I learned (the hard ways ;)).
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/12/2019 2:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com wrote:
> > Gentlemen,
> >
> > Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big healey gear
> > box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
> >
> > Bob.
> > 1961 BT7.
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sat Jul 13 15:44:02 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2019 14:44:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <6ECE05E1-9ED3-46D9-A3B2-16B00F721B6B@gmail.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
 <0da001d538f6$56991180$03cb3480$@roadrunner.com>
 <6ECE05E1-9ED3-46D9-A3B2-16B00F721B6B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <114801d539c4$181bb560$48532020$@roadrunner.com>

I gladly pay twice the price

?Cause it ain?t no deal after

I?ve had to replace it thrice!

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 7:03 PM
To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
Cc: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

This an issue I deal with everyday. The bumper iron you got probably came from England and yes they are a poor quality. I have them from Kilmartin and the fit. They also cost probably 30 percent more. 

 

You want a real issue the rubber parts that rot away in less than a year without the car ever being out in the sun. I have a better quality one and they are twice the price. Then some people complain at the cost. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 12, 2019, at 2:11 PM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

I?ve been told the same thing.  I?ll give a shout out to Dave Nock here.  My practice is to go through Dave because he?s always steered me to the best, or at least the better, quality parts available.  And I?ve plumbed his inventory of used and NOS many times.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 1:44 PM
To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >; Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> >
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

     As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.  S

     So, I guess you get what you pay for.

Mike MacLean

 

On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> > wrote: 

 

 

Yup, fully agree with the rant: 

 

The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 440


On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> > wrote:

Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.

I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right. 

My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.

I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...

 

I feel your pain.

 

M

 

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.

Mike MacLean

______________________________________________

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net>  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
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From manifold at telus.net  Fri Jul 12 21:28:48 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2019 20:28:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
In-Reply-To: <001501d5390c$95632070$c0296150$@com.au>
References: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
 <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501d5390c$95632070$c0296150$@com.au>
Message-ID: <587BD30D1EFF4DAC8059C8FDCE030D94@AllInOne>

Does this help... Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 4:50 PM
To: 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly



'The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to
the rubber brake hose' which join at a bracket mounted to a suspension part
IIRC.

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2019 8:24 AM
To: rrengineer.mike
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly

 

Mike,

 

The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to
the rubber brake hose.

 

Rick

 

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 4:16 PM rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big
Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.  Does the flexible brake line
connect directly to the caliper?  I see a short brake pipe with fittings in
the illustrations in catalogs.  Does this short brake line go between the
flex line and the caliper?  I might ask more questions at a later date.

Mike MacLean

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul 14 09:20:44 2019
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 11:20:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Martin Jansen
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjqnwLCjd4u+MePf7w6nqTp-S6gJKGna1kp_TR2NZ4yiog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1059677986.523787.1563061479399.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1059677986.523787.1563061479399@mail.yahoo.com>
 <004a01d53a4f$fe4faec0$faef0c40$@roadrunner.com>
 <CAHZDnjqnwLCjd4u+MePf7w6nqTp-S6gJKGna1kp_TR2NZ4yiog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003c01d53a57$b4d39ab0$1e7ad010$@sympatico.ca>

That is sad indeed.  I live not too far from Marty, and occasionally bumped into him when out and about.  A visit to his shop was always enjoyable and Marty?s candid expression of his opinions on Healeys and how to restore them were always entertaining and thought provoking.  His yellow ?nasty boy? was a work of art and a tribute to his skill as a mechanic.  I will miss him.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Neil Anderson
Sent: July-14-19 10:37 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Martin Jansen

 

Just received this about Martin from the President of the AHCA.

Inline image

It is with deep sadness that we announce the passing of our dear Marty on Friday, July 12, 2019, in the comfort of his own home surrounded by his loving family. Marty is survived by his beloved wife of 40 years, Gayle and his children, Joel (Lisa) and Katie. Dear son-in-law of Howard Bonham. Forever missed by his best friend Charli. Marty was the proud business owner and founder of Jule Enterprises which fostered him many friendships in the Austin Healey community. 

Family and friends are invited to visit at the McKersie-Kocher Funeral Home 114 Main St. E. Milton, on. 905-878-4452 from 6-9Pm on Tuesday, July 16, 2019, Service to be held on Wednesday, July 17 time and place to be announced at a later time followed by burial at Trafalgar Lawn Cemetery. Reception to follow at St. Volodymyr Cultural Centre 1280 Dundas St. W. Oakville, L6M 4H9. 

As expressions of sympathy memorial donations in memory of Marty to Halton Children's Aid Foundation, or Trillium Health Partners Cardiac Surgical unit, or Carlo Fidani Regional Cancer Centre, or One Roof Youth Homeless shelter in Kitchener would be appreciated by the family. 

Letters of Condolence shared stories and memorial donations may be left for the family online at www.mckersie-kocher.ca

 

 

 

 


 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> Image removed by sender.

Virus-free.  <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link> www.avast.com 

 

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul 14 09:22:44 2019
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 11:22:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <6ECE05E1-9ED3-46D9-A3B2-16B00F721B6B@gmail.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
 <0da001d538f6$56991180$03cb3480$@roadrunner.com>
 <6ECE05E1-9ED3-46D9-A3B2-16B00F721B6B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004201d53a57$fc5f2fc0$f51d8f40$@sympatico.ca>

David,  thank you and please keep carrying those better quality parts.  There are many among us who appreciate it and will pay the extra.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: July-12-19 10:03 PM
To: Bruce Steele
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

This an issue I deal with everyday. The bumper iron you got probably came from England and yes they are a poor quality. I have them from Kilmartin and the fit. They also cost probably 30 percent more. 

 

You want a real issue the rubber parts that rot away in less than a year without the car ever being out in the sun. I have a better quality one and they are twice the price. Then some people complain at the cost. 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 12, 2019, at 2:11 PM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:

I?ve been told the same thing.  I?ll give a shout out to Dave Nock here.  My practice is to go through Dave because he?s always steered me to the best, or at least the better, quality parts available.  And I?ve plumbed his inventory of used and NOS many times.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 1:44 PM
To: Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

     As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.  S

     So, I guess you get what you pay for.

Mike MacLean

 

On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote: 

 

 

Yup, fully agree with the rant: 

 

The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it anyway.

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 440


On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:

Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.  In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.

I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right. 

My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and trying to make it work.

I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...

 

I feel your pain.

 

M

 

On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.  He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.  Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.  None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.

Mike MacLean

______________________________________________

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 14 09:45:33 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 08:45:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <3DA30C05-6CB5-4D0C-BCFB-285CBE5F88C4@yahoo.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3DA30C05-6CB5-4D0C-BCFB-285CBE5F88C4@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <cebe3c97-eafa-eca2-d964-a12d853f33d8@comcast.net>

I found an obscure British car parts dealer in an industrial area in San 
Jose (or maybe Los Altos).? They had an OEM front bumper for a BJ8--I 
presume it would fit any 6-cyl car--on the wall.? The owner of the shop 
told me he'd had it for years; no one wanted it because it cost a 
hundred or so bucks more than the crappy repops.

Who's doing this?? Surely, no one on this list who's complaining about 
crappy fitting parts has sprung for the cheap version over the quality 
one, right (I'm guilty; I bought a cheaper rear brake cylinder over the 
pricier one a couple years ago)?

Bob


On 7/12/2019 6:38 PM, Don via Healeys wrote:
> When I bought front and rear bumpers for my 67 BJ-8 from Moss . I had 
> a show coming up and I needed them quick . Well they weren?t even 
> close to fitting. When I called Moss back , the salesman said , when 
> you ordered them , didn?t the salesman tell you they will need to 
> modified to fit ? Sent them back , ordered a new set from AH Spares . 
> Fit first time .
> ? ? ? ? ? ?Don ,
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 12, 2019, at 4:43 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net 
> <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
>
>> ???? As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of 
>> the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit 
>> well.? He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but 
>> very few people will buy them.? If he lists both a premium part and a 
>> cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be 
>> foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the 
>> majority will buy.? Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.? S
>> ???? So, I guess you get what you pay for.
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins 
>> <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Yup, fully agree with the rant:
>>
>> The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the 
>> attachment holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time 
>> from the vendor. As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the 
>> bumper to the car with the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks 
>> weird but doesn?t impact drivability. The bumper is so thin that any 
>> rear ender will destroy it anyway.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Richard C
>> BN7 440
>>
>> On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com 
>> <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Amen to that.? The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I 
>> bought a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the 
>> outer forks, which required sectioning and welding in extensions to 
>> bring them level.? In retrospect, I probably should have taken an 
>> inch out of the outer forks, as the bumper sits too far proud of the 
>> shroud. I?d totally forgotten about this until I took my aux lamps 
>> off and reinstalled the bumper for a show this weekend.? After the 
>> show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps are going back on.
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Michael Salter
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
>> *To:* Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net 
>> <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
>>
>> Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
>>
>> I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to 
>> understand why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things 
>> right.
>>
>> My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the 
>> junk and trying to make it work.
>>
>> I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as 
>> so doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...
>>
>> I feel your pain.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net 
>> <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once
>>     told me. He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it
>>     took to do a 100. Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual
>>     suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.? Nothing fits like it
>>     was made for the car.? This morning I made an attempt to bolt up
>>     the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.? None of the holes in
>>     the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear
>>     axle.? I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in
>>     the bump stop box to get all four bolts in. This car is fighting
>>     me every step of the way.? I guess it's like my restorer friend
>>     who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame
>>     with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give
>>     you a reason to live".? I am beginning to understand what he
>>     meant.? Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new
>>     curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to
>>     accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head
>>     against the wall, I keep coming back.? Rant over.
>>
>>     Mike MacLean
>>
>>     ______________________________________________
>>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 09:53:42 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 11:53:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <cebe3c97-eafa-eca2-d964-a12d853f33d8@comcast.net>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <CAB3i7LK6uZvLZOiui3WNSPTaVnxqvT=-SHGdU3g59h3mXrpePQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <091101d5386c$0f911f10$2eb35d30$@roadrunner.com>
 <BN8PR19MB2418D56D116EC896C769D1CCBFF20@BN8PR19MB2418.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
 <1872690947.1132360.1562964230710@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3DA30C05-6CB5-4D0C-BCFB-285CBE5F88C4@yahoo.com>
 <cebe3c97-eafa-eca2-d964-a12d853f33d8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKXihgZroQZ4iO0P4M7ZeFv0TCp4isAPnctP4toqZfEvA@mail.gmail.com>

In the wise words of John Ruskin:

*There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little
worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are
this man's lawful prey.*

On Sun, Jul 14, 2019 at 11:45 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I found an obscure British car parts dealer in an industrial area in San
> Jose (or maybe Los Altos).  They had an OEM front bumper for a BJ8--I
> presume it would fit any 6-cyl car--on the wall.  The owner of the shop
> told me he'd had it for years; no one wanted it because it cost a hundred
> or so bucks more than the crappy repops.
>
> Who's doing this?  Surely, no one on this list who's complaining about
> crappy fitting parts has sprung for the cheap version over the quality one,
> right (I'm guilty; I bought a cheaper rear brake cylinder over the pricier
> one a couple years ago)?
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/12/2019 6:38 PM, Don via Healeys wrote:
>
> When I bought front and rear bumpers for my 67 BJ-8 from Moss . I had a
> show coming up and I needed them quick . Well they weren?t even close to
> fitting. When I called Moss back , the salesman said , when you ordered
> them , didn?t the salesman tell you they will need to modified to fit ?
> Sent them back , ordered a new set from AH Spares . Fit first time .
>            Don ,
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 12, 2019, at 4:43 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>      As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the
> reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told
> me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will
> buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost
> 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow
> moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the
> parts to be cheap.  S
>      So, I guess you get what you pay for.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Friday, July 12, 2019, 8:29:19 AM PDT, Richard Collins <
> gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Yup, fully agree with the rant:
>
> The rear bumper brackets were not even close to fitting the attachment
> holes on my rear bumper, both purchased at the same time from the vendor.
> As a result, one each of the bracket bolts hold the bumper to the car with
> the other hole in the bumper empty. Looks weird but doesn?t impact
> drivability. The bumper is so thin that any rear ender will destroy it
> anyway.
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
>
> On Jul 11, 2019, at 23:41, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> wrote:
>
> Amen to that.  The inner forks of front bumper mounting brackets I bought
> a number of years ago were a bit over an inch shorter than the outer forks,
> which required sectioning and welding in extensions to bring them level.
> In retrospect, I probably should have taken an inch out of the outer forks,
> as the bumper sits too far proud of the shroud.  I?d totally forgotten
> about this until I took my aux lamps off and reinstalled the bumper for a
> show this weekend.  After the show, the bumper is coming off and the lamps
> are going back on.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 11, 2019 1:39 PM
> *To:* Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
>
>
>
> Mike you are pretty well "on the money" there.
>
> I have encountered endless problems with repop parts. I fail to understand
> why manufacturers have so much difficulty getting things right.
>
> My suspicion is that we are all partly to blame for accepting the junk and
> trying to make it work.
>
> I will go to untold lengths to purchase a good used part any time as so
> doing invariably saves me hours and hours of frustration...
>
>
>
> I feel your pain.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 11, 2019, 4:19 PM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
> I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.
> He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.
> Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are
> easy to install.  Nothing fits like it was made for the car.  This morning
> I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.
> None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the
> rear axle.  I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the
> bump stop box to get all four bolts in.  This car is fighting me every step
> of the way.  I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told
> me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go
> ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".  I am beginning to
> understand what he meant.  Half the time I am pulling my hair out and
> inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to
> accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against
> the wall, I keep coming back.  Rant over.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> ______________________________________________
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 14 09:57:59 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 15:57:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB2878F6037D9C2EA419D01AD3A5F20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MWHPR2201MB15680561B261BFAE2C6D980CD1F30@MWHPR2201MB1568.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <87454b33-0d2e-4b41-bfa9-da34a4e91b46@email.android.com>
 <MWHPR07MB2878F6037D9C2EA419D01AD3A5F20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <667793481.1696514.1563119879974@mail.yahoo.com>

 Bill,???? I do not envy you about the painting of your car.? I went through three body and fender people before my BN2 was somewhat acceptable.? It is far from perfect and I have spent many thousands to get it almost right.? I was fortunate to have my local restorer friend who has since passed, advise me on what has to be done to the body before painting like fitting the grill and splash pan during the bodywork before it is painted.? My big problem was the first body man thought that carving a car out of a half inch of Bondo was the way to go.? The inside surface of the metal looked far different than the outside Bondoed surface.? He left in the middle of the night with my money, leaving my car outside with only one coat of the first stage on the car and took my complete windscreen assembly with him.? No one can find him right now.? To his credit, the second body man removed the Bondo and did a much better job of bringing the metal closer to the paint.? Also to his credit he had finished painting the car before he skipped town, but once again that was a disaster.? He had promised to take it across the way to the "real" body shop and rent their paint booth for $100.? That did not happen.? He wanted to save $100, so he painted it right in his shop.? The problem was he had been sub-letting his half of the shop in the industrial park with a guy making concrete paving stones.? When he painted the car in his shop he got dirt particles in the paint under the clear coat on the side next to the paving stones. He told me that color sanding it would "get that out of the paint".? It did not.? Then he skipped town like the last guy.? I was beginning to see a pattern.? The last guy I took it to razor bladed all the paint off and repainted the car.? He did a lousy job of prep work and you can see sanding lines under the paint in some places if you look close and bubbles have popped up is a few places.? One large bubble popped up between the right headlight and the bonnet opening on the shroud.? I was told he would fix this when he wasn't so busy.? I called a few days ago about scheduling the car to repair the areas that needed it and he had changed his tune completely.? He wanted to estimate how much to charge me to do the work.? He wouldn't even get on the phone, he had his wife tell me he had told me originally when he had? painted it he was only going to sand the car down and paint over the the old paint, therefore he was not responsible for what happened to the paint after that.? This is not true. He denied saying that he razored the old paint off, a lie. ? He said what do you expect for $12,000.00!? That is where I am right now.? I have a mind to leave it the way it is and when I am asked at a Healey meet about the glaring problems with the paint, tell people of the wonderful customer service I got from this guy.? Believe me, he is not getting another dime out of me.? I have a local production body and fender shop I trust for small repairs that will be fixing the problems, I hope.? I'm too far into this car now to stop.? I probably could have bought three running 100s with what I have spent so far.? Talk about a sickness.Mike MacLean

    On Thursday, July 11, 2019, 8:11:01 PM PDT, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv4715006757 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}Mike,
My car has been off the road for 4 years and I am finally planning to get it into paint it this weekend. It isn't just new parts or re-pops that can vary in dimension even used or NOS parts are sometimes wrong. The fact that these cars were "hand built" and the suppliers at the time were a little sloppy with their tolerances means that any job is going to be as much a matter of luck as skill. I read or heard somewhere that Jensens had piles of panels next to their assembly line and that as the chassis came down the line they would test fit panels until they found an acceptable match. Parts like the cockpit surrounds, bonnets and deck lids were hand fitted to each car and number stamped to avoid having them mixed up. Parts from one car may have a completely different fit than those from another. Oh well, If it were easy a Ford mechanic could do it...
Congratulations?on your retirement. If I had known how much I would enjoy it I would have done that first.

Bill LawrenceBN1 #554
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 10:19 PM
To: Jean Caron
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant??Jean,? ? ?Believe me when I say, restored old parts or NOS parts are my first choice.? Sometimes fiddling with a repop to make it fit is less work than making the part.? It seems any reproduction part needs to be "adjusted" to fit.? If I had a swear jar in the garage, I wouldn't have enough money left for food during the last week of the month.? I get my retirement income on the first.Mike

On Jul 11, 2019 2:47 PM, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:


Mike, 

If you have the old parts and they are too rusted to be used, sometimes it pays to make them yourself and drill the holes exactly where they need to be, it?s time consuming but it fits right the first time.

?

Jean

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant??I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me.? He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100.? Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install.? Nothing fits like it was made for the car.? This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle.? None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle.? I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in.? This car is fighting me every step of the way.? I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live".? I am beginning to understand what he meant.? Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back.? Rant over.Mike MacLean

  
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 10:15:20 2019
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 12:15:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Buying parts
Message-ID: <05db01d53a5f$55e4a690$01adf3b0$@gmail.com>

Thanks Mike, great choice for wise words.   And great comments from the list on the pros and cons of buying cheaper.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 11:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?

 

In the wise words of John Ruskin:

 

There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey. 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 10:17:27 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 12:17:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive question
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLAdRUx-jAuWTyEFTaT7J3s_Z165Ko3FuwfhVZAJbiLqg@mail.gmail.com>

I'm trying to put a 28% BN1 overdrive unit together from parts and am
having difficulty with the gear tooth counts.
Anyone out there with one of these units in pieces who could help me out?

Thanks,

Michael S
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From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 14 11:09:06 2019
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 17:09:06 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive question
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLAdRUx-jAuWTyEFTaT7J3s_Z165Ko3FuwfhVZAJbiLqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLAdRUx-jAuWTyEFTaT7J3s_Z165Ko3FuwfhVZAJbiLqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <YT1PR01MB3081902A28AA8975E50B70C1E6CC0@YT1PR01MB3081.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I put a 28% and a 3.54 diff in the BJ8. The overdrive sun and planet gears are the only difference and they are interchangeable in sets between the 22% and the 28%
The 22% overdrive has 24 teeth on the large planet, 15 teeth on the small planet, and 21 teeth on the sun gear
The 28% overdrive has 21 teeth on the large planet, 15 teeth on the small planet, and a 24 tooth sun gear.
Both use a 60 tooth annulus.

Laurie



Sent from Laurie Wilford


-------- Original message --------
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Date: 2019-07-14 12:17 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive question

I'm trying to put a 28% BN1 overdrive unit together from parts and am having difficulty with the gear tooth counts.
Anyone out there with one of these units in pieces who could help me out?

Thanks,

Michael S

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Jul 14 11:54:27 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 18:54:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive question
In-Reply-To: <YT1PR01MB3081902A28AA8975E50B70C1E6CC0@YT1PR01MB3081.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <CAB3i7LLAdRUx-jAuWTyEFTaT7J3s_Z165Ko3FuwfhVZAJbiLqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <YT1PR01MB3081902A28AA8975E50B70C1E6CC0@YT1PR01MB3081.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <000001d53a6d$2ef8c800$8cea5800$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I did the same with my BT7.

I didn't count the teeth in the car but remain content that all the teeth in
my skull are originals. No repros and little ironwork.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Laurie Wilford
Sent: 14 July 2019 18:09
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive question

 

I put a 28% and a 3.54 diff in the BJ8. The overdrive sun and planet gears
are the only difference and they are interchangeable in sets between the 22%
and the 28%

The 22% overdrive has 24 teeth on the large planet, 15 teeth on the small
planet, and 21 teeth on the sun gear

The 28% overdrive has 21 teeth on the large planet, 15 teeth on the small
planet, and a 24 tooth sun gear.

Both use a 60 tooth annulus.

 

Laurie 

 

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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 14 11:54:31 2019
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 17:54:31 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Buying parts
Message-ID: <20190714.135431.29047.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

There is no pro to buying 'cheap', unless you know a quality part is being over priced. As the man said, "You get what you pay for!!" This should be a non issue. You do it right or not at all!! Although there are those who not only want you to give them the part(s), but pay for the shipping. We only have one trip, so enjoy it. As for the money, you can't take it with you, so go for it

Cheers,Doug Thanks Mike, great choice for wise words.   And great comments from the list on the pros and cons of buying cheaper. Bob Begani From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 11:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant? In the wise words of John Ruskin: There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper, and the people who consider price only are this man's lawful prey. 
____________________________________________________________
1 Weird Trick That "Forces" Your Eye To 20/20 Vision -Try It
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http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5d2b6c80f310c6c806848st03duc
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul 14 12:07:05 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 11:07:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Rear Spring Bushes
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LL8wDoREby5yrnGLaVnGz+O2sPRFjZcLJ7v8mqFkm6wFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <175338A5A14E4FA0882873A96615B0CA@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7LL8wDoREby5yrnGLaVnGz+O2sPRFjZcLJ7v8mqFkm6wFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <174C745D4A5F46D59219D08835E12C1B@AllInOne>

Maybe I should join the Rant. The bushings I have are 4-5 thou larger than
the tube. I agree with your 1-2 thou interference fit.

  _____  

From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com] 
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 5:05 AM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear Spring Bushes


The bushes should be made of iron and be only 1 or 2 thou larger than the ID
of the tube.  
Easily installed using a piece of 1/2" threaded rod and a couple of nuts.
More reproduction parts problems maybe?
M

On Sat, Jul 13, 2019, 10:55 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net> wrote:



Hello,
 
Any suggestions or tips on installing new rear spring bushes? The new bushes
seem to be much larger that the hole in the chassis bracket. Picture of
bushes attached.
 
Thanks,
 
Harold
 
 
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From editorgary at aol.com  Sun Jul 14 12:38:17 2019
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 18:38:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Another Rant on replacement parts
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1563127202.24698.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1563127202.24698.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <551168289.640164.1563129497642@mail.yahoo.com>

 Frankly, I don't and never have accepted the lame excuse from Moss Motors (in whatever ownership/management incarnation) that they have to provide ill-fitting, unsuitable poor-wearing and out-of-spec parts because a contingent of our hobby "won't pay the higher price for quality parts."
In my view, the near-monopoly supplier of parts for our hobby should be providing replacements that in fit, material and quality match the original parts and that is the only level of quality that they will sell. When they sell poor parts just because the supplier makes them for less and charges less, then they undermine the respectability of the original marque around which the hobby was built and leave people believing that Healeys -- and by extension all "old English cars" were of poor quality and reliability when they were originally built. 

Provide good quality that produces good performance and it will be reflected in the prices of the cars on the market. There is a reason why Mercedes-Benz models that once cost the same as our cars of the same vintage are now worth more on the market than our cars. It's because the primary supplier of replacement parts for Mercedes-Benzes is Daimler AG and they will only sell parts that are of equivalent quality to the originals. For those hobbyists who find those prices unacceptable, they can substitute sweat equity in hunting for parts off unrestorable examples. 

Just one person's opinion, mind you, but I have first-hand experience in restoring, driving and buying/selling both brands.
BestGary Anderson
 
 

 

? ? As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.? He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.? If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.? Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.? S

? ? So, I guess you get what you pay for.

Mike MacLean

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 13:08:22 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 12:08:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another Rant on replacement parts
In-Reply-To: <551168289.640164.1563129497642@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.7.1563127202.24698.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <551168289.640164.1563129497642@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-AsYJ7M6rqp9Cz9-3hYxgeC4VaP_Asf1GNqgN-6Sewew@mail.gmail.com>

Well said Gary.
If I buy cheap, I expect issues, but some times I have more time than money.
That said, Moss will ship parts it knows are not right or poor quality and
that is a bigger issue.
I bought an aluminum valve cover through a local vender who pays for
shipping. When it arrived it had gouges from the polishing process. He sent
it back. When he asked to check the inventory before sending a replacement,
he was told that all of them looked the same and did he want them to ship
another one for me?
That is a bigger concern.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Sun, Jul 14, 2019, 11:38 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Frankly, I don't and never have accepted the lame excuse from Moss Motors
> (in whatever ownership/management incarnation) that they have to provide
> ill-fitting, unsuitable poor-wearing and out-of-spec parts because a
> contingent of our hobby "won't pay the higher price for quality parts."
>
> In my view, the near-monopoly supplier of parts for our hobby should be
> providing replacements that in fit, material and quality match the original
> parts and that is the only level of quality that they will sell. When they
> sell poor parts just because the supplier makes them for less and charges
> less, then they undermine the respectability of the original marque around
> which the hobby was built and leave people believing that Healeys -- and by
> extension all "old English cars" were of poor quality and reliability when
> they were originally built.
>
> Provide good quality that produces good performance and it will be
> reflected in the prices of the cars on the market. There is a reason why
> Mercedes-Benz models that once cost the same as our cars of the same
> vintage are now worth more on the market than our cars. It's because the
> primary supplier of replacement parts for Mercedes-Benzes is Daimler AG and
> they will only sell parts that are of equivalent quality to the originals.
> For those hobbyists who find those prices unacceptable, they can substitute
> sweat equity in hunting for parts off unrestorable examples.
>
> Just one person's opinion, mind you, but I have first-hand experience in
> restoring, driving and buying/selling both brands.
>
> Best
> Gary Anderson
>
>
>
>
>
>     As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the
> reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told
> me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will
> buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost
> 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow
> moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the
> parts to be cheap.  S
>
>     So, I guess you get what you pay for.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 14 13:26:08 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 19:26:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Another Rant on replacement parts
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-AsYJ7M6rqp9Cz9-3hYxgeC4VaP_Asf1GNqgN-6Sewew@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.7.1563127202.24698.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <551168289.640164.1563129497642@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz8-AsYJ7M6rqp9Cz9-3hYxgeC4VaP_Asf1GNqgN-6Sewew@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <826459655.1702317.1563132368858@mail.yahoo.com>

 On the other hand I can't afford a Mercedes Benz restoration.? Don't get me wrong, it is just great that Mercedes has a "classic" parts counter, but you pay the same high prices for classic parts as? parts for a new Mercedes.? So, I'll just bumble along making the poor fitting repop parts fit and work properly.? After all, they are not THAT bad, but let's not speak of the rubber stuff.Mike MacLean

    On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 12:09:00 PM PDT, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Well said Gary.If I buy cheap, I expect issues, but some times I have more time than money.That said, Moss will ship parts it knows are not right or poor quality and that is a bigger issue.I bought an aluminum valve cover through a local vender who pays for shipping. When it arrived it had gouges from the polishing process. He sent it back. When he asked to check the inventory before sending a replacement, he was told that all of them looked the same and did he want them to ship another one for me?That is a bigger concern.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
On Sun, Jul 14, 2019, 11:38 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 Frankly, I don't and never have accepted the lame excuse from Moss Motors (in whatever ownership/management incarnation) that they have to provide ill-fitting, unsuitable poor-wearing and out-of-spec parts because a contingent of our hobby "won't pay the higher price for quality parts."
In my view, the near-monopoly supplier of parts for our hobby should be providing replacements that in fit, material and quality match the original parts and that is the only level of quality that they will sell. When they sell poor parts just because the supplier makes them for less and charges less, then they undermine the respectability of the original marque around which the hobby was built and leave people believing that Healeys -- and by extension all "old English cars" were of poor quality and reliability when they were originally built. 

Provide good quality that produces good performance and it will be reflected in the prices of the cars on the market. There is a reason why Mercedes-Benz models that once cost the same as our cars of the same vintage are now worth more on the market than our cars. It's because the primary supplier of replacement parts for Mercedes-Benzes is Daimler AG and they will only sell parts that are of equivalent quality to the originals. For those hobbyists who find those prices unacceptable, they can substitute sweat equity in hunting for parts off unrestorable examples. 

Just one person's opinion, mind you, but I have first-hand experience in restoring, driving and buying/selling both brands.
BestGary Anderson
 
 

 

? ? As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.? He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.? If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.? Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.? S

? ? So, I guess you get what you pay for.

Mike MacLean

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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_______________________________________________
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From editorgary at aol.com  Sun Jul 14 16:17:04 2019
From: editorgary at aol.com (Gary Anderson)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 15:17:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another Rant on replacement parts
In-Reply-To: <826459655.1702317.1563132368858@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.7.1563127202.24698.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <551168289.640164.1563129497642@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz8-AsYJ7M6rqp9Cz9-3hYxgeC4VaP_Asf1GNqgN-6Sewew@mail.gmail.com>
 <826459655.1702317.1563132368858@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A9708D38-CEBC-4ED7-A44D-9A5E4C336693@aol.com>

Whatever works for you. Thank goodness David Nock can act as an intermediary.
Gary

Gary Anderson 


> On Jul 14, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> On the other hand I can't afford a Mercedes Benz restoration.  Don't get me wrong, it is just great that Mercedes has a "classic" parts counter, but you pay the same high prices for classic parts as  parts for a new Mercedes.  So, I'll just bumble along making the poor fitting repop parts fit and work properly.  After all, they are not THAT bad, but let's not speak of the rubber stuff.
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 12:09:00 PM PDT, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Well said Gary.
> If I buy cheap, I expect issues, but some times I have more time than money.
> That said, Moss will ship parts it knows are not right or poor quality and that is a bigger issue.
> I bought an aluminum valve cover through a local vender who pays for shipping. When it arrived it had gouges from the polishing process. He sent it back. When he asked to check the inventory before sending a replacement, he was told that all of them looked the same and did he want them to ship another one for me?
> That is a bigger concern.
> 
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
> 
> On Sun, Jul 14, 2019, 11:38 AM editorgary--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Frankly, I don't and never have accepted the lame excuse from Moss Motors (in whatever ownership/management incarnation) that they have to provide ill-fitting, unsuitable poor-wearing and out-of-spec parts because a contingent of our hobby "won't pay the higher price for quality parts."
> 
> In my view, the near-monopoly supplier of parts for our hobby should be providing replacements that in fit, material and quality match the original parts and that is the only level of quality that they will sell. When they sell poor parts just because the supplier makes them for less and charges less, then they undermine the respectability of the original marque around which the hobby was built and leave people believing that Healeys -- and by extension all "old English cars" were of poor quality and reliability when they were originally built. 
> 
> Provide good quality that produces good performance and it will be reflected in the prices of the cars on the market. There is a reason why Mercedes-Benz models that once cost the same as our cars of the same vintage are now worth more on the market than our cars. It's because the primary supplier of replacement parts for Mercedes-Benzes is Daimler AG and they will only sell parts that are of equivalent quality to the originals. For those hobbyists who find those prices unacceptable, they can substitute sweat equity in hunting for parts off unrestorable examples. 
> 
> Just one person's opinion, mind you, but I have first-hand experience in restoring, driving and buying/selling both brands.
> 
> Best
> Gary Anderson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>     As far as repops go, I asked a Moss rep one time why a lot of the reproduction parts and the rubber was so bad and did not fit well.  He told me that he could sell better parts for our cars but very few people will buy them.  If he lists both a premium part and a cheaper version, almost 95% will buy the cheap part. It would be foolish to inventory such slow moving parts, so they sell what the majority will buy.  Everyone wants the parts to be cheap.  S
> 
>     So, I guess you get what you pay for.
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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> 
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 14 16:43:23 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 15:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Torque Setting?
Message-ID: <f40d1958-8d84-45f8-9148-7549eed271eb@email.android.com>

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From llennep at verizon.net  Sun Jul 14 16:52:34 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 22:52:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Torque Setting?
In-Reply-To: <f40d1958-8d84-45f8-9148-7549eed271eb@email.android.com>
References: <f40d1958-8d84-45f8-9148-7549eed271eb@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1690544287.1753753.1563144754080@mail.yahoo.com>

Yes Mike.? Torque it until the threads strip then back off 2 flats.Sorry - feeling silly tonight.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 14, 2019 6:43 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Torque Setting?

Is there a torque setting for the nuts that screw onto the hub studs to the disc brake rotor.? This is the early disc setup (3000) that I am converting my BN2 with.? I don't have any literature for later Healeys.Mike MacLean_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sun Jul 14 17:27:32 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 19:27:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Torque Setting?
In-Reply-To: <f40d1958-8d84-45f8-9148-7549eed271eb@email.android.com>
References: <f40d1958-8d84-45f8-9148-7549eed271eb@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <005201d53a9b$b7cac9c0$27605d40$@rr.com>

There is no torque specified for either the front or rear hub nuts in the 3000 workshop manual.  After having some of the rear nuts loosen and cause damage to the stud threads on the rear hubs, I had to replace the studs.  I had the old and replacement studs checked in the Materials Lab at work.  They were equivalent in Rockwell hardness to Grade 8 bolts.  I have noted in my workshop manual that the front studs (BJ8) measured 3/8-24.  Standard torque for a Grade 8 3/8-24 bolt is 49 lb-ft, so that's what I torqued mine to when I changed the front brake rotors.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike MacLean
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 6:43 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Torque Setting?

 

Is there a torque setting for the nuts that screw onto the hub studs to the disc brake rotor.  This is the early disc setup (3000) that I am converting my BN2 with.  I don't have any literature for later Healeys.

Mike MacLean

 

                                                                                                           

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 21:00:27 2019
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 20:00:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap
In-Reply-To: <1559488031917.3086517.3da3b737a1f584958619d4f31d0b208d268e1b86@spica.telekom.de>
References: <CABXhz8-_HrwbrHXCMVL2gZ-4H70ifqfH0inpVY7zFgDj9iggQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de>
 <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl>
 <fe91c994-3984-a23d-255f-8931055bd53b@comcast.net>
 <1559488031917.3086517.3da3b737a1f584958619d4f31d0b208d268e1b86@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMXaHQ+H4RNW28RfdkQs1n2kkyfsjOPOCEF1szt9=xreg@mail.gmail.com>

70 MPH?   Hmmmmm.   After a drive the other day, I started doing some work
on the engine and I was standing next to my front fender - that has rally
vents --and felt a lot of hot air coming out of the vent.   I have an
electric fan and it had come on at the end of my drive as the temperature
started to climb above 190 degrees.   And, the hood (bonnet) was in the
raised position.

On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 8:08 AM josef-eckert at t-online.de <
josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:

> My opinion.
>
> Side  vents help at speeds above app. 70 miles/h for race cars.
>
> Louvers are just a gimmick. help nothing, only cause trouble in rain
> (mainly when car is parked somewhere).
>
>
>
> Josef Eckert
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] alum radiator swap
>
> Datum: 2019-06-02T16:16:51+0200
>
> Von: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
>
> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> While we're (sort of) on topic, what is the List wisdom on the efficacy of
> fitting side vents to the front wings (a la rally cars)?  Since,
> supposedly, a big part of the issue with Healeys overheating is
> insufficient airflow through the engine bay, I'd expect them to help quite
> a bit.  Or, or they 'useless' as well, since the main overheating issue is
> stopped at idle?
>
> Not sure if the louvers on my 100M help.  It still gets a bit warm stopped
> at idle, but not as much as my BJ8 (but I haven't driven the M as much,
> smaller engine, etc.).
>
> Bob
> On 6/2/2019 1:19 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>
> Yes and no.
>
> An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or
> occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that many
> classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an electric
> fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled.
>
> An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at
> all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just cheap to
> manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency.
>
> What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature of
> the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger delta T,
> fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant flow, enlarging
> the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows (up to a point),
> larger matrix or increase the air flow through the radiator, i.e. improved
> cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher engine idling speed but most
> of all a thermostatically controlled fan in combination with a carefully
> chosen thermostat and thermoswitch.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
> Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de:
>
> When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep the
> car propperly maintained  and when you use the old car only occasionally
> for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no problem with an old
> car.
>
> PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as it
> improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick.
>
>
>
> Josef Eckert
>
> K?nigswinter/Germany
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>
> Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap
>
> Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200
>
> Von: "i erbs" <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>
> An: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Aluminum radiator swap update:
> Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced
> wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to
> double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I
> found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have
> tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of
> the return window.
> So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked.
> Will reinstall my flex fan
> refill with coolant/water
> have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit.
> I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the
> holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts.
> Fun with old cars
> Registered for a car show on June 8th....
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>  ?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 14 21:30:45 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 20:30:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] alum radiator swap
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMXaHQ+H4RNW28RfdkQs1n2kkyfsjOPOCEF1szt9=xreg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-_HrwbrHXCMVL2gZ-4H70ifqfH0inpVY7zFgDj9iggQw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1559458431443.3042984.5d09105e3a9936237334f95f61d63668af6b1c5d@spica.telekom.de>
 <2d4f7400-c276-7d8c-ab09-eb1ee559213a@chello.nl>
 <fe91c994-3984-a23d-255f-8931055bd53b@comcast.net>
 <1559488031917.3086517.3da3b737a1f584958619d4f31d0b208d268e1b86@spica.telekom.de>
 <CAKkXjqMXaHQ+H4RNW28RfdkQs1n2kkyfsjOPOCEF1szt9=xreg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_-FEDnK31hBkktF_OzAFryT7ZYnReWb_NU_8YCzA2tGQ@mail.gmail.com>

Been running my oem radistor with more cores and fixed filler neck, and
metsl flex fan. Car ran at 189 F, rose to 210 in traffic, but dropped back
down. No overflow when we stopped.
So Im goi g to call this fixed. Sm working to turn my pull electric fan
into a push unit with thermostatic controll and manual over ride.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Sun, Jul 14, 2019, 8:01 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> 70 MPH?   Hmmmmm.   After a drive the other day, I started doing some work
> on the engine and I was standing next to my front fender - that has rally
> vents --and felt a lot of hot air coming out of the vent.   I have an
> electric fan and it had come on at the end of my drive as the temperature
> started to climb above 190 degrees.   And, the hood (bonnet) was in the
> raised position.
>
> On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 8:08 AM josef-eckert at t-online.de <
> josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:
>
>> My opinion.
>>
>> Side  vents help at speeds above app. 70 miles/h for race cars.
>>
>> Louvers are just a gimmick. help nothing, only cause trouble in rain
>> (mainly when car is parked somewhere).
>>
>>
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>
>> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] alum radiator swap
>>
>> Datum: 2019-06-02T16:16:51+0200
>>
>> Von: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
>>
>> An: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> While we're (sort of) on topic, what is the List wisdom on the efficacy
>> of fitting side vents to the front wings (a la rally cars)?  Since,
>> supposedly, a big part of the issue with Healeys overheating is
>> insufficient airflow through the engine bay, I'd expect them to help quite
>> a bit.  Or, or they 'useless' as well, since the main overheating issue is
>> stopped at idle?
>>
>> Not sure if the louvers on my 100M help.  It still gets a bit warm
>> stopped at idle, but not as much as my BJ8 (but I haven't driven the M as
>> much, smaller engine, etc.).
>>
>> Bob
>> On 6/2/2019 1:19 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>
>> Yes and no.
>>
>> An old car should be fit for any normal drive, be it regularly or
>> occasionally, at leisure or in modern heavy traffic. This means that many
>> classic cars will need some assistance with the cooling, i.e. an electric
>> fan, either manually or thermostatically controlled.
>>
>> An aluminium radiator is indeed a gimmick and does not add anything at
>> all. It will probably wear out faster due to corrosion. It is just cheap to
>> manufacture and does not improve the cooling efficiency.
>>
>> What improves cooling efficiency is increasing the running temperature of
>> the engine by fitting a hotter thermostat thus creating a larger delta T,
>> fitting a more efficient water pump to increase the coolant flow, enlarging
>> the total surface area of the radiator, i.e. more rows (up to a point),
>> larger matrix or increase the air flow through the radiator, i.e. improved
>> cowling, more blades to the fixed fan, higher engine idling speed but most
>> of all a thermostatically controlled fan in combination with a carefully
>> chosen thermostat and thermoswitch.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 2-6-2019 om 08:53 schreef josef-eckert at t-online.de:
>>
>> When you use genuine parts to replace faulty ones and when you keep the
>> car propperly maintained  and when you use the old car only occasionally
>> for fun drives just to enjoy driving it, there is no problem with an old
>> car.
>>
>> PS: Aluminium radiator is something nobody needs in a classic car as it
>> improves nothing. Just a useless gimmick.
>>
>>
>>
>> Josef Eckert
>>
>> K?nigswinter/Germany
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original-Nachricht-----
>>
>> Betreff: [Healeys] alum radiator swap
>>
>> Datum: 2019-06-02T00:21:42+0200
>>
>> Von: "i erbs" <eyera3000 at gmail.com> <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>>
>> An: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Aluminum radiator swap update:
>> Got my old oem unit out. Removed my nice newish metal flex fan. spliced
>> wires onto the electric fan for easy connect/disconnect and then went to
>> double-check the new radiator will work after and initial trial fit. What I
>> found: OEM radiator is 1/2" wider and the aluminum radiator does not have
>> tapped holes, so nuts will be needed to attach to my car. I am outside of
>> the return window.
>> So it looks like I will be getting my OEM Radiator flow tested and tanked.
>> Will reinstall my flex fan
>> refill with coolant/water
>> have installed a new sleeved thermostat to replace the non-sleeved unit.
>> I can make some shims for the new radiator, but cutting threads in the
>> holes will most likely result in the holes being to big for the bolts.
>> Fun with old cars
>> Registered for a car show on June 8th....
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>>       _______                                  _______
>>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>          (_________________________)
>>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>>
>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>
>>  ?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul 15 06:52:40 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 08:52:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] New blog post ... Repro water pumps
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL0RAHyJOtHd-rr-CB2cR9DgB84jes6LTnjAHsrLLSh+Q@mail.gmail.com>

I have a new Healey relevant post on my blog about reproduction late 6
cylinder water pumps.
http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/

M
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul 14 09:53:12 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 08:53:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
In-Reply-To: <587BD30D1EFF4DAC8059C8FDCE030D94@AllInOne>
References: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
 <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501d5390c$95632070$c0296150$@com.au>
 <587BD30D1EFF4DAC8059C8FDCE030D94@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <93D87FB5FDD3491F8AC2954D939DB0A0@AllInOne>

I remembered I had this service bulletin for AH 3000 Disk Brakes as well.
...Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 8:29 PM
To: 'John Rowe'; 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly


Does this help... Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 4:50 PM
To: 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly



'The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to
the rubber brake hose' which join at a bracket mounted to a suspension part
IIRC.

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2019 8:24 AM
To: rrengineer.mike
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly

 

Mike,

 

The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to
the rubber brake hose.

 

Rick

 

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 4:16 PM rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big
Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.  Does the flexible brake line
connect directly to the caliper?  I see a short brake pipe with fittings in
the illustrations in catalogs.  Does this short brake line go between the
flex line and the caliper?  I might ask more questions at a later date.

Mike MacLean

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 14 10:09:59 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 16:09:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
In-Reply-To: <93D87FB5FDD3491F8AC2954D939DB0A0@AllInOne>
References: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
 <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501d5390c$95632070$c0296150$@com.au>
 <587BD30D1EFF4DAC8059C8FDCE030D94@AllInOne>
 <93D87FB5FDD3491F8AC2954D939DB0A0@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <870528604.1676416.1563120599579@mail.yahoo.com>

 How timely is that!? I have not installed the hub assembly yet. (just put the outer ball bearing races in the hub last night).? I also just received a pair of dust shields and rubber seals from AH Spares a day or two ago.? They came already painted too!? I just thought it would be better as originally designed.? Still not quite sure of how all the fasteners go to put all this together, but I am sure it will become clear when I assemble it.? Thanks for that Service Bulletin! ? My thinking has been re-affirmed.Mike MacLean

    On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 8:53:23 AM PDT, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:  
 
  _filtered #yiv7219960225 {font-family:Cambria Math;} _filtered #yiv7219960225 {font-family:Calibri;} _filtered #yiv7219960225 {font-family:Tahoma;} _filtered #yiv7219960225 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt;}#yiv7219960225 P.yiv7219960225MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:New;MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;}#yiv7219960225 LI.yiv7219960225MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:New;MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;}#yiv7219960225 DIV.yiv7219960225MsoNormal {FONT-SIZE:12pt;FONT-FAMILY:New;MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;}#yiv7219960225 A:link {TEXT-DECORATION:underline;COLOR:blue;}#yiv7219960225 SPAN.yiv7219960225MsoHyperlink {TEXT-DECORATION:underline;COLOR:blue;}#yiv7219960225 A:visited {TEXT-DECORATION:underline;COLOR:purple;}#yiv7219960225 SPAN.yiv7219960225MsoHyperlinkFollowed {TEXT-DECORATION:underline;COLOR:purple;}#yiv7219960225 SPAN.yiv7219960225EmailStyle17 {COLOR:#1f497d;}#yiv7219960225 .yiv7219960225MsoChpDefault {}#yiv7219960225 DIV.yiv7219960225Section1 {}I remembered I had this service bulletin for AH 3000 Disk Brakes as well. ...Harold
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 8:29 PM
To: 'John Rowe'; 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly

Does?this help... Harold
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 4:50 PM
To: 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly


?The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to the rubber brake hose? which join at a bracket mounted to a suspension part IIRC.
 
John Rowe
 
Qld Australia
 
 ?
 
 ?
 
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2019 8:24 AM
To: rrengineer.mike
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
 
 ?
 
Mike,
 
 ?
 
The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to the rubber brake hose.
 
 ?
 
Rick
 
 ?
 
On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 4:16 PM rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
 
   
Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.? Does the flexible brake line connect directly to the caliper?? I see a short brake pipe with fittings in the illustrations in catalogs.? Does this short brake line go between the flex line and the caliper?? I might ask more questions at a later date.
  
Mike MacLean
  
 ?
  
 ?
  
 ?
   
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
 
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 14 13:44:22 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 14 Jul 2019 19:44:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQkznBUVZfbZ6QDTOJ5iunNb_bnbxGCCG6na_Z90LR8fA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
 <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeQkznBUVZfbZ6QDTOJ5iunNb_bnbxGCCG6na_Z90LR8fA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2145398962.1708128.1563133462709@mail.yahoo.com>

 I second Dave Hubbard.? Dave rebuilt the lower a-arms for my Bugeye.? He fit the kingpin with tight spacers on both sides of the kingpin where there were originally cork washers that were always gone by the time you got around to greasing the pivot pin.? This made a solid internal space to keep the grease in place. He also re-enforced the threaded tube for the pin and put grease fittings on both ends for complete lubrication.? He knows his stuff!Mike MacLean? 

    On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 8:00:51 AM PDT, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Didn't mess with it as haven't rebuilt one for 45 years.? My Sprite gearboxes (a Smoothcase with Ribcase internals, and a Ribcase) went to Dave Hubbard North of LA, one of the best in the USA if not the world and inexpensive. $650 USD for the Ribcase rebuild and that included the core!? My original numbered Smoothcase with NOS Ribcase internals was around $900 USD total complete!!!??
Dave only works for people he likes and that come highly recommended, so don't ask.
BN1 and a BN2 to Eric Grunden of Absolutely British.? Definitely NOT inexpensive but worth every penny!? $5K+ for each.? Both are like new with a lot of NOS parts!
I'm getting too old for this.
Cheers,?
Curt
On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 7:33 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

I did it last year (gearbox + OD).? There are lots of helpful videos on 
the 'net, esp. Magnus Karlsson's:

http://healeyspecialists.com/videos/

Plus, a lot of people on this list and various forums were helpful as 
well.? For the most part, there are no 'special tools' required (mostly, 
just a selection of big hammers ;).

There are a few gotchas, if you endeavor to undertake this, I would be 
glad to fill you in on what I learned (the hard ways ;)).

Bob

On 7/12/2019 2:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big healey gear
> box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
>
> Bob.
> 1961 BT7.
>
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 15 21:24:44 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 20:24:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <dbbeafff-78dd-7694-1e25-6780d113433f@comcast.net>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
 <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeQkznBUVZfbZ6QDTOJ5iunNb_bnbxGCCG6na_Z90LR8fA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2145398962.1708128.1563133462709@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR12MB33444FE239015E5CED04CE2EF0CE0@MN2PR12MB3344.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
 <dbbeafff-78dd-7694-1e25-6780d113433f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <fa1b7d1e-5fc8-220d-d0e5-8e2cb9dd09dc@comcast.net>

<send to List; 'too many recipients' first time>

On 7/15/2019 8:23 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Yep, that can be tricky.? I managed to do it once, but the second time 
> I couldn't make it go and David and his team bailed me out (on short 
> notice, to boot).
>
> I'm lucky I'm only a half-hour from BCS--they've helped me out several 
> times.
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/15/2019 7:28 PM, David Nock wrote:
>> Bob, ?Don?t forger fitting the overdrive to the transmission
>>
>> David Nock
>> GGAHC President
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael 
>> MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, July 15, 2019 7:18 PM
>> *To:* Bob Spidell; rd_parker; Michael Salter; Curtis Arndt
>> *Cc:* Healey List
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
>> I second Dave Hubbard.? Dave rebuilt the lower a-arms for my Bugeye.? 
>> He fit the kingpin with tight spacers on both sides of the kingpin 
>> where there were originally cork washers that were always gone by the 
>> time you got around to greasing the pivot pin.? This made a solid 
>> internal space to keep the grease in place. He also re-enforced the 
>> threaded tube for the pin and put grease fittings on both ends for 
>> complete lubrication.? He knows his stuff!
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 8:00:51 AM PDT, Curtis Arndt 
>> <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Didn't mess with it as haven't rebuilt one for 45 years.? My Sprite 
>> gearboxes (a Smoothcase with Ribcase internals, and a Ribcase) went 
>> to Dave Hubbard North of LA, one of the best in the USA if not the 
>> world and _inexpensive_. $650 USD for the Ribcase rebuild and that 
>> included the core!? My original numbered Smoothcase with NOS Ribcase 
>> internals was around $900 USD total complete!!!
>>
>> Dave only works for people he likes and that come highly recommended, 
>> so don't ask.
>>
>> BN1 and a BN2 to Eric Grunden of Absolutely British.? Definitely NOT 
>> inexpensive but worth every penny!? $5K+ for each.? Both are like new 
>> with a lot of NOS parts!
>>
>> I'm getting too old for this.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Curt
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 7:33 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     I did it last year (gearbox + OD).? There are lots of helpful
>>     videos on
>>     the 'net, esp. Magnus Karlsson's:
>>
>>     http://healeyspecialists.com/videos/
>>
>>     Plus, a lot of people on this list and various forums were
>>     helpful as
>>     well.? For the most part, there are no 'special tools' required
>>     (mostly,
>>     just a selection of big hammers ;).
>>
>>     There are a few gotchas, if you endeavor to undertake this, I
>>     would be
>>     glad to fill you in on what I learned (the hard ways ;)).
>>
>>     Bob
>>
>>     On 7/12/2019 2:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com
>>     <mailto:rd_parker at juno.com> wrote:
>>     > Gentlemen,
>>     >
>>     > Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big
>>     healey gear
>>     > box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
>>     >
>>     > Bob.
>>     > 1961 BT7.
>>
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Jul 16 10:27:24 2019
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 12:27:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake fluid...again
Message-ID: <77DEAA88-AFD2-4C60-9DBC-DCA357C52F39@rogers.com>

I have used Dot 5 silicone brake fluid for many years and have never had any problems with it.
Nor have I found any corrosion while rebuilding the components- I?ve decided that it?s the perfect solution for a car that sits for months during the winter, and it won?t remove my paint.
I?ve read about ?compressibility?, but I think that?s just the effect of not completely removing all the air from the system, which can be time consuming.

Now for the BUT?for the first time, I?ve read something about silicone fluid that?s given me pause.
If you have a servo and it develops a leak, you definitely don?t want your engine sucking this stuff through the manifold. I?m not a chemist, but apparently what is left behind when Dot 5 is burned can be abrasive and damaging to engine components. I?m sure there are some of you who will understand the molecular structure of the silicone fluid, and be able to explain this properly?but this has got me thinking.
I have a PBR replacement servo which has been very reliable, but I?m thinking about looking for a rebuild kit soon.

Stephen, BJ8

From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 16 13:07:58 2019
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 12:07:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Advertising
Message-ID: <25ED9F0CC9CA40F996B446482B3187F8@LeonardPCPC>


For those interested in Healeys in advertising, attached is a photo of an ad for Alioto's restaurant at 
Fishermans Wharf in San Francisco.  The ad appeared in the June, 2019, issue of the Olympic Club's magazine.  Nice vintage photo of a group of Nash Healeys in front of the restaurant.  Any belong to anyone on The List??  ;-)

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
        220,225 miles

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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Jul 16 13:20:46 2019
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 12:20:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys in Advertising
Message-ID: <70C9452BE8474373819A5B0BA4C12792@LeonardPCPC>



Yea, yea, yea.  I noticed.  No photo.

Let's try again.

Len
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From m.fawcett at cox.net  Tue Jul 16 13:56:00 2019
From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 12:56:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] More Healeys in Ads
Message-ID: <CAMoKZw_ccK63jJ2_-2My0KYQNcE_LuSw9S+7OQV_4CVZGw--Gg@mail.gmail.com>

Here's an ad that features a couple of LBCs

Mark Fawcett
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul 16 15:51:54 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 14:51:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Free for Shipping Only
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1563313923.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Free for shipping only.? I'm going to spin on, besides this is the 6 cyl setup and won't be correct for my BN2.? First response, etc.? Too much stuff.? I need to clear some of this out.Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Jul 16 19:47:36 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 01:47:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Free for Shipping Only
In-Reply-To: <20190716215254.3A1ADA1D52@autox.team.net>
References: <20190716215254.3A1ADA1D52@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1737364474.3045766.1563328056597@mail.yahoo.com>

Mike this does not look familiar.
Keith? BJ8 and former BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 16, 2019 5:54 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Free for Shipping Only

Free for shipping only.? I'm going to spin on, besides this is the 6 cyl setup and won't be correct for my BN2.? First response, etc.? Too much stuff.? I need to clear some of this out.Mike MacLean


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone_______________________________________________
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Mon Jul 15 20:28:12 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 02:28:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <2145398962.1708128.1563133462709@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
 <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeQkznBUVZfbZ6QDTOJ5iunNb_bnbxGCCG6na_Z90LR8fA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <2145398962.1708128.1563133462709@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <MN2PR12MB33444FE239015E5CED04CE2EF0CE0@MN2PR12MB3344.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>

Bob,  Don?t forger fitting the overdrive to the transmission

David Nock
GGAHC President

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Sent: Monday, July 15, 2019 7:18 PM
To: Bob Spidell; rd_parker; Michael Salter; Curtis Arndt
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.

I second Dave Hubbard.  Dave rebuilt the lower a-arms for my Bugeye.  He fit the kingpin with tight spacers on both sides of the kingpin where there were originally cork washers that were always gone by the time you got around to greasing the pivot pin.  This made a solid internal space to keep the grease in place. He also re-enforced the threaded tube for the pin and put grease fittings on both ends for complete lubrication.  He knows his stuff!
Mike MacLean

On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 8:00:51 AM PDT, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:


Didn't mess with it as haven't rebuilt one for 45 years.  My Sprite gearboxes (a Smoothcase with Ribcase internals, and a Ribcase) went to Dave Hubbard North of LA, one of the best in the USA if not the world and inexpensive. $650 USD for the Ribcase rebuild and that included the core!  My original numbered Smoothcase with NOS Ribcase internals was around $900 USD total complete!!!

Dave only works for people he likes and that come highly recommended, so don't ask.

BN1 and a BN2 to Eric Grunden of Absolutely British.  Definitely NOT inexpensive but worth every penny!  $5K+ for each.  Both are like new with a lot of NOS parts!

I'm getting too old for this.

Cheers,

Curt

On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 7:33 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
I did it last year (gearbox + OD).  There are lots of helpful videos on
the 'net, esp. Magnus Karlsson's:

http://healeyspecialists.com/videos/

Plus, a lot of people on this list and various forums were helpful as
well.  For the most part, there are no 'special tools' required (mostly,
just a selection of big hammers ;).

There are a few gotchas, if you endeavor to undertake this, I would be
glad to fill you in on what I learned (the hard ways ;)).

Bob

On 7/12/2019 2:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com<mailto:rd_parker at juno.com> wrote:
> Gentlemen,
>
> Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big healey gear
> box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
>
> Bob.
> 1961 BT7.
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 15 21:23:15 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 15 Jul 2019 20:23:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
In-Reply-To: <MN2PR12MB33444FE239015E5CED04CE2EF0CE0@MN2PR12MB3344.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
References: <AABQUUALMABL7922@smtpout03.vgs.untd.com>
 <717194cd-46b6-ff18-4a4d-0f4b7480b630@comcast.net>
 <CAJKrNeQkznBUVZfbZ6QDTOJ5iunNb_bnbxGCCG6na_Z90LR8fA@mail.gmail.com>
 <2145398962.1708128.1563133462709@mail.yahoo.com>
 <MN2PR12MB33444FE239015E5CED04CE2EF0CE0@MN2PR12MB3344.namprd12.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <dbbeafff-78dd-7694-1e25-6780d113433f@comcast.net>

Yep, that can be tricky.? I managed to do it once, but the second time I 
couldn't make it go and David and his team bailed me out (on short 
notice, to boot).

I'm lucky I'm only a half-hour from BCS--they've helped me out several 
times.

Bob


On 7/15/2019 7:28 PM, David Nock wrote:
> Bob, ?Don?t forger fitting the overdrive to the transmission
>
> David Nock
> GGAHC President
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael 
> MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Sent:* Monday, July 15, 2019 7:18 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell; rd_parker; Michael Salter; Curtis Arndt
> *Cc:* Healey List
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox/Overdrive Rebuilds.
> I second Dave Hubbard.? Dave rebuilt the lower a-arms for my Bugeye.? 
> He fit the kingpin with tight spacers on both sides of the kingpin 
> where there were originally cork washers that were always gone by the 
> time you got around to greasing the pivot pin.? This made a solid 
> internal space to keep the grease in place. He also re-enforced the 
> threaded tube for the pin and put grease fittings on both ends for 
> complete lubrication.? He knows his stuff!
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 8:00:51 AM PDT, Curtis Arndt 
> <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Didn't mess with it as haven't rebuilt one for 45 years.? My Sprite 
> gearboxes (a Smoothcase with Ribcase internals, and a Ribcase) went to 
> Dave Hubbard North of LA, one of the best in the USA if not the world 
> and _inexpensive_. $650 USD for the Ribcase rebuild and that included 
> the core!? My original numbered Smoothcase with NOS Ribcase internals 
> was around $900 USD total complete!!!
>
> Dave only works for people he likes and that come highly recommended, 
> so don't ask.
>
> BN1 and a BN2 to Eric Grunden of Absolutely British.? Definitely NOT 
> inexpensive but worth every penny!? $5K+ for each.? Both are like new 
> with a lot of NOS parts!
>
> I'm getting too old for this.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 7:33 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     I did it last year (gearbox + OD).? There are lots of helpful
>     videos on
>     the 'net, esp. Magnus Karlsson's:
>
>     http://healeyspecialists.com/videos/
>
>     Plus, a lot of people on this list and various forums were helpful as
>     well.? For the most part, there are no 'special tools' required
>     (mostly,
>     just a selection of big hammers ;).
>
>     There are a few gotchas, if you endeavor to undertake this, I
>     would be
>     glad to fill you in on what I learned (the hard ways ;)).
>
>     Bob
>
>     On 7/12/2019 2:52 PM, rd_parker at juno.com
>     <mailto:rd_parker at juno.com> wrote:
>     > Gentlemen,
>     >
>     > Have any of you attempted a tear down and rebuild of a big
>     healey gear
>     > box and overdrive; what have been your experiences?
>     >
>     > Bob.
>     > 1961 BT7.
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul 16 09:50:17 2019
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Tue, 16 Jul 2019 08:50:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly
In-Reply-To: <870528604.1676416.1563120599579@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <20190712201648.06A8FA0E9B@autox.team.net>
 <CAGfzsZfp6nGP7uhPbAD=u=Kz6zN=1_iSS8Zxr6y+aLvqcMRrUQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001501d5390c$95632070$c0296150$@com.au>
 <587BD30D1EFF4DAC8059C8FDCE030D94@AllInOne>
 <93D87FB5FDD3491F8AC2954D939DB0A0@AllInOne>
 <870528604.1676416.1563120599579@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B0ED09AE3E5545A9A8DEED4506D4CEB8@DavidNockHP>

Check the fit of the backing plates first. The ones that are currently being supplied do not fit. You may need to move one of the brackets that support the dust shield.
So install the spindle and caliper less the two front bolts, fit up the backing plate and attach to the caliper and make sure the the clearance around the shield is equal and the front brackets line up to the mounting holes on the spindle.

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com




From: Michael MacLean 
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2019 9:09 AM
To: 'Harold Manifold' ; 'John Rowe' ; 'HealeyRick' 
Cc: 'Healeys' 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly

How timely is that!  I have not installed the hub assembly yet. (just put the outer ball bearing races in the hub last night).  I also just received a pair of dust shields and rubber seals from AH Spares a day or two ago.  They came already painted too!  I just thought it would be better as originally designed.  Still not quite sure of how all the fasteners go to put all this together, but I am sure it will become clear when I assemble it.  Thanks for that Service Bulletin!   My thinking has been re-affirmed.
Mike MacLean


On Sunday, July 14, 2019, 8:53:23 AM PDT, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote: 


I remembered I had this service bulletin for AH 3000 Disk Brakes as well. ...Harold


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 8:29 PM
To: 'John Rowe'; 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly


Does this help.. Harold


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Rowe
Sent: Friday, July 12, 2019 4:50 PM
To: 'HealeyRick'; 'rrengineer.mike'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly


?The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to the rubber brake hose? which join at a bracket mounted to a suspension part IIRC.

John Rowe

Qld Australia





From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Saturday, 13 July 2019 8:24 AM
To: rrengineer.mike
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 Disc Brake Assembly



Mike,



The caliper has a metal brake line about six inches long that connects to the rubber brake hose.



Rick



On Fri, Jul 12, 2019 at 4:16 PM rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

  Never having assembled disc brakes for a Healey 3000, let alone any big Healey, I would like to ask a question or two.  Does the flexible brake line connect directly to the caliper?  I see a short brake pipe with fittings in the illustrations in catalogs.  Does this short brake line go between the flex line and the caliper?  I might ask more questions at a later date.

  Mike MacLean







  Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone

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From cecil.duvalle at btinternet.com  Wed Jul 17 02:21:30 2019
From: cecil.duvalle at btinternet.com (Cecil Du Valle)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 09:21:30 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Heat
Message-ID: <B12895D8-709B-43E4-A5B3-32D9F3DF2E20@btinternet.com>


I?m trying to reduce the heat in the passenger side in the cockpit. There is a small piece of insulation above the exhaust underneath the floor. I have a few inches to place something between the exhaust and the floor to help stop the heat. I hope to place Dynomat on the floor inside. Any suggestions. Thanks. 1006
Sent from my iPhone

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Jul 17 03:23:16 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 05:23:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Heat
In-Reply-To: <B12895D8-709B-43E4-A5B3-32D9F3DF2E20@btinternet.com>
References: <B12895D8-709B-43E4-A5B3-32D9F3DF2E20@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdvLhEx35CAvcaW7214bdEHPvS0s7XuNCt+rzisVRd5zA@mail.gmail.com>

I used this stuck to the underside of the floor above the muffler:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dei-010412/overview/  It should help
quite a bit with the dynamat on the inside and hasn't come unstuck over
several years.

Rick Neville

On Wed, Jul 17, 2019 at 4:22 AM Cecil Du Valle via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> I?m trying to reduce the heat in the passenger side in the cockpit. There
> is a small piece of insulation above the exhaust underneath the floor. I
> have a few inches to place something between the exhaust and the floor to
> help stop the heat. I hope to place Dynomat on the floor inside. Any
> suggestions. Thanks. 1006
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 17 03:51:20 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 11:51:20 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Heat
In-Reply-To: <B12895D8-709B-43E4-A5B3-32D9F3DF2E20@btinternet.com>
References: <B12895D8-709B-43E4-A5B3-32D9F3DF2E20@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <130963c8-bc72-c0ff-5390-01923ae1a719@chello.nl>

Use it on the outside between exhaust and floor and create quite an overlap.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 17-7-2019 om 10:21 schreef Cecil Du Valle via Healeys:
> I?m trying to reduce the heat in the passenger side in the cockpit. There is a small piece of insulation above the exhaust underneath the floor. I have a few inches to place something between the exhaust and the floor to help stop the heat. I hope to place Dynomat on the floor inside. Any suggestions. Thanks. 1006
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From dayton21 at comcast.net  Wed Jul 17 04:07:44 2019
From: dayton21 at comcast.net (mitch)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 06:07:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
Message-ID: <mailman.24.1563358067.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>


Hello,

I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.
I need instructions and advice

Thanks
Mitchell
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Wed Jul 17 04:25:08 2019
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 20:25:08 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
In-Reply-To: <20190717100806.06D6BA1D0F@autox.team.net>
References: <20190717100806.06D6BA1D0F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B9D647D6-21F2-4345-AA25-DB7A4CF818B9@gmail.com>

Hi Mitch,
I have a "double ended" SU pump in my BJ8. 
It is wired via a Bugeye Sprite 3 position blinker switch. 
It's set up so I can have one pump end on (road use), 2 pumps on (track use), or no pumps on (parked and secured).
I change the road use end every 18 months or so, by moving the wire to the other end when I'm under the car, and always turn the switch to both pumps first - then back to one. The noise confirms they are both operational. 
I also have a malpassi fuel pressure regulator/ filter. 
I can't help with two separate and independent pumps. 
Best
Chris 

> On 17 Jul 2019, at 8:07 pm, mitch <dayton21 at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
>  
> Hello,
>  
> I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.
> I need instructions and advice
>  
> Thanks
> Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 17 04:56:09 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 06:56:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
In-Reply-To: <20190717100809.5E66DA1D31@autox.team.net>
References: <20190717100809.5E66DA1D31@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <017f01d53c8e$3f852290$be8f67b0$@rr.com>

I installed a backup fuel pump in preparation for the cross-country drive to Open Roads in Lake Tahoe in 2002.  Although I installed a generic vane pump as the backup and not another SU, perhaps the attachments will help.  I have found it very useful and "comforting" to have a backup pump and have had occasion to use it several times on the road (temporarily, fortunately).

I chose to install the pump in series with the SU for simplicity of the plumbing.  It requires cutting the metal fuel pipe from the pump to the carbs, but I had already done that previously to install a filter under the rear seat so no additional cutting was necessary. 

The backup pump came from the local Autozone store.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mitch
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 6:08 AM
To: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed

 

 

Hello,

 

I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.

I need instructions and advice

 

Thanks

Mitchell

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From varley at cosmos.net.au  Wed Jul 17 05:17:14 2019
From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 21:17:14 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
In-Reply-To: <20190717100812.8E4BAA1D57@autox.team.net>
References: <20190717100812.8E4BAA1D57@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <b571dd17-35cf-178a-5410-bc6a59cda3bb@cosmos.net.au>

Or perhaps buy one good SU pump and it wont fail, or do you also carry a 
spare engine and gearbox as well? :)

Regards and in fun

Larry Varley


On 17/07/2019 8:07 PM, mitch wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able 
> to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.
>
> I need instructions and advice
>
> Thanks
>
> Mitchell
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au
>

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 17 06:14:27 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 14:14:27 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
In-Reply-To: <20190717100804.E6932A1D08@autox.team.net>
References: <20190717100804.E6932A1D08@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2be83d55-b6b9-6292-29f5-99675120cbd1@chello.nl>

Just fit two pumps parallel with a two way switch or three position 
switch: pump 1-all off-pump 2. Take the original fuel pump fee, connect 
to the "in" of the switch and connect both pumps to the separate 2 "out" 
of the switch.

Of course you can also use two separate on/off switches, one for each pump.

The pipe work is simple, line from tank to Y-piece, each branch to the 
inlet of the pumps, Y-piece on both outlets of pump to sinle line of 
carb feed. The valves in the pumps will prevent back flow. The pump is 
originally probably SU AUF 301, now superseded by SU/Burlen AZX1308, so 
you need two of those.

Do switch over regularly as these SU pumps hate being unused. Even brand 
new pumps often require cleaning the points initially. If used regularly 
they last for ages.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 17-7-2019 om 12:07 schreef mitch:
>
> Hello,
>
> I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able 
> to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.
>
> I need instructions and advice
>
> Thanks
>
> Mitchell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 17 06:17:22 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 14:17:22 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
In-Reply-To: <20190717100804.E6932A1D08@autox.team.net>
References: <20190717100804.E6932A1D08@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <922baafa-afcc-28e6-769e-61b23318a571@chello.nl>

Forgot to mention: make sure the outlet of each pump is upwards and the 
pumps fitted horizontally.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 17-7-2019 om 12:07 schreef mitch:
>
> Hello,
>
> I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able 
> to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.
>
> I need instructions and advice
>
> Thanks
>
> Mitchell
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jul 17 08:42:05 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 14:42:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Dual SU fuel pumps install info. needed
References: <660377642.2670602.1563374525486.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <660377642.2670602.1563374525486@mail.yahoo.com>

Attached is a PDF about my dual SU fuel pump installation from the July 2014 issue of the Healey Marque.Gary Hodson
From: mitch <dayton21 at comcast.net>
Hello, ?I want to install dual SU fuel pumps on my 66 bj8??..I want to be able to flip a switch when one pump fails ??be able to switch to the other one.I need instructions and advice ?ThanksMitchell
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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Jul 17 18:38:03 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 00:38:03 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for sale
References: <1868322130.3560336.1563410283151.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1868322130.3560336.1563410283151@mail.yahoo.com>

Still clearing out some inventory so here is the latest for sale offering.
Pair front securing brackets for 3000 side curtains.? L and R.? VG? Zinc replated.? $18Pair rear securing brackets for 3000 side curtains.? L and R.? VG? Zinc replated.? $18BTW still have the side curtains L and R.? Sliders fair to poor.? Frame complete but finish poor.? Will need all ? ? ? ?seals, above brackets and hardware.? Free plus shipping and packing of $25.
Pair check strap assemblies, complete.? L and R.? All Zn plated parts replated except large lock washers.? ? ? ? ? Excellent.? $90 for the pair and selling only as pair.Metal clamps for fuel line and harness.? Lots of em and assorted sizes.? Several newly zinc plated.? Free
2 side curtain wing nuts.? Fair.? Free.2 side curtain socket and nut.? Fair.? Free2 hexhead throttle linkage clamp bolts.? Good? FreeUpholstery panel cup washers.? New.? Many.? Free
Fender bolts, washers and nuts.? Fair to good.? Many.? FreeAssorted sizes of nuts, washers, screws, bolts.? General condition good but almost all need replating.? Email ? ? ? ?me with your needs.? Free.
Above prices plus shipping from 23602.? Contact me with any Qs.Keith757-877-3119
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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Jul 17 19:20:06 2019
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 19:20:06 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
Message-ID: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

67 BJ8 
 Am about fit to be tied ! 
 Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now. 
 Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box, 
 A creak rather than a clunk. 
 So what have I done. 
 Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts doors checked. 
 Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a pia job !). 
 The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater valve off. 
 Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type noise. 
 It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops. 
 In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a problem there ? 
 Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area. 
 Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change, 
 What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone.... 
 Ideas please ! 
 rg.
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From goldengt at cal.net  Wed Jul 17 19:54:12 2019
From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 18:54:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <20190718015418.074341A05D5@mail.cal.net>

Bonnet hinge boxes?Ken Freese?Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> Date: 7/17/19  6:20 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise 67 BJ8  Am about fit to be tied !  Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now.  Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box,  A creak rather than a clunk.  So what have I done.  Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts doors checked.  Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a pia job !).  The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater valve off.  Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type noise.  It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops.  In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a problem there ?  Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area.  Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change,  What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone....  Ideas please !  rg.-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by
MailScanner, and is
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Jul 17 20:52:13 2019
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 22:52:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <007101d53d13$cd4bfd80$67e3f880$@sympatico.ca>

I too have an annoying creak in that area and have never traced it, although I have not gone to the impressive lengths that Roger has.  I have often wondered if it is the aluminum shroud working against the top of the scuttle/bulkhead as the chassis/body unit flexes.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: July-17-19 9:20 PM
To: <healeys at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise

 

67 BJ8 
Am about fit to be tied ! 
Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now. 
Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box, 
A creak rather than a clunk. 
So what have I done. 
Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts doors checked. 
Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a pia job !). 
The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater valve off. 
Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type noise. 
It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops. 
In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a problem there ? 
Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area. 
Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change, 
What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone.... 
Ideas please ! 
rg.

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 17 20:57:00 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 19:57:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <20190718015418.074341A05D5@mail.cal.net>
References: <20190718015418.074341A05D5@mail.cal.net>
Message-ID: <054c2529-a3ac-ba19-ad99-6ce6b353200b@comcast.net>

Since you mentioned it ... How do we get to the bonnet hinge boxes?? My 
BJ8 is largely squeak- and rattle-free, but sometimes when I hit a bump 
I get a 'thunk' from that area.? I've never figured out how to get in 
there to remedy the noise.

Bob

On 7/17/2019 6:54 PM, goldengt wrote:
> Bonnet hinge boxes?
> Ken Freese
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> Date: 7/17/19 6:20 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: "<healeys at Autox.Team.Net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
>
> 67 BJ8
> Am about fit to be tied !
> Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now.
> Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box,
> A creak rather than a clunk.
> So what have I done.
> Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell 
> housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, 
> removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield 
> side mounts doors checked.
> Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent 
> most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a 
> pia job !).
> The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going 
> over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after 
> car was warm so switched heater valve off.
> Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed 
> to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually 
> sounds like expansion type noise.
> It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops.
> In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a 
> problem there ?
> Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of 
> dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area.
> Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change,
> What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of 
> driving it is gone....
> Ideas please !
> rg.
>
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by *MailScanner* <http://www.mailscanner.info/>, and is
> believed to be clean.
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and
> dangerous content by *MailScanner* <http://www.mailscanner.info/>, and is
> believed to be clean.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From kags at shaw.ca  Thu Jul 18 00:22:54 2019
From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna)
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2019 23:22:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <ADE3F931602D49508EE44B532CC7A141@KagsLaptop>

Roger:

This reminds me of a similar situation that I had many years ago on my BJ8 ? a ?thunk? sound from the left side of the dash area (or so I thought) on certain bumps but not others. Drove me nuts trying to find it - literally for years.  Finally found it when the car was torn down in conjunction with the total restoration.

There are 2 plates ? one on each side of the car ? called wing support brackets in the body manual (plate BC 2) - that tie the assembled wing / shroud flange to the top of the inner wheel arch.  The manual is not very clear on this thing.

When dismantling this part of the body, we found the pair of bolt / nut assemblies totally missing and clear evidence that this was the source of the ?thunk?.  But it sure sounded like it was coming from the dash or bonnet.

Your problem just might be that these bolts are there but loose, which could conceivably cause a creak type of sound that seems to be from the dash area.  Try pressing down on the right side fender / shroud close to the centre of the wheel cut out and maybe fore and aft a bit to see if you can produce a similar sound.  The bad news is that these things are a real pain to get to on an assembled car ? they are almost impossible to see, let alone service as they are up high and behind the air hoses on both sides, and can?t be accessed from the wheel arch because of the inner fender position.

If all else fails, it?s worth a try.  Let us know.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
From: Roger Grace 
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 6:20 PM
To: mailto:healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise

67 BJ8 
Am about fit to be tied ! 
Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now. 
Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box, 
A creak rather than a clunk. 
So what have I done. 
Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts doors checked. 
Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a pia job !). 
The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater valve off. 
Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type noise. 
It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops. 
In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a problem there ? 
Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area. 
Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change, 
What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone.... 
Ideas please ! 
rg.


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul 18 08:52:16 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:52:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <ADE3F931602D49508EE44B532CC7A141@KagsLaptop>
References: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <ADE3F931602D49508EE44B532CC7A141@KagsLaptop>
Message-ID: <72359cf2-afea-b311-ea5d-de461680ab3f@comcast.net>

Earl,

Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0? You're 
describing the problem I have.

Bob

On 7/17/2019 11:22 PM, Earl Kagna wrote:
> Roger:
> This reminds me of a similar situation that I had many years ago on my 
> BJ8 ? a ?thunk? sound from the left side of the dash area (or so I 
> thought) on certain bumps but not others. Drove me nuts trying to find 
> it - literally for years.? Finally found it when the car was torn down 
> in conjunction with the total restoration.
> There are 2 plates ? one on each side of the car ? called wing support 
> brackets in the body manual (plate BC 2) - that tie the assembled wing 
> / shroud flange to the top of the inner wheel arch.? The manual is not 
> very clear on this thing.
> When dismantling this part of the body, we found the pair of bolt / 
> nut assemblies totally missing and clear evidence that this was the 
> source of the ?thunk?.? But it sure sounded like it was coming from 
> the dash or bonnet.
> Your problem just might be that these bolts are there but loose, which 
> could conceivably cause a creak type of sound that seems to be from 
> the dash area.? Try pressing down on the right side fender / shroud 
> close to the centre of the wheel cut out and maybe fore and aft a bit 
> to see if you can produce a similar sound.? The bad news is that these 
> things are a real pain to get to on an assembled car ? they are almost 
> impossible to see, let alone service as they are up high and behind 
> the air hoses on both sides, and can?t be accessed from the wheel arch 
> because of the inner fender position.
> If all else fails, it?s worth a try.? Let us know.
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
> *From:* Roger Grace <mailto:roggrace at telus.net>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 17, 2019 6:20 PM
> *To:* mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
> 67 BJ8
> Am about fit to be tied !
> Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now.
> Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box,
> A creak rather than a clunk.
> So what have I done.
> Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell 
> housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, 
> removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield 
> side mounts doors checked.
> Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent 
> most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a 
> pia job !).
> The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going 
> over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after 
> car was warm so switched heater valve off.
> Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed 
> to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually 
> sounds like expansion type noise.
> It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops.
> In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a 
> problem there ?
> Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of 
> dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area.
> Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change,
> What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of 
> driving it is gone....
> Ideas please !
> rg.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From sgerow2 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 18 13:13:38 2019
From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 12:13:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
Message-ID: <CA+myF4rkyBWrkviBzNoOps3OqrQhFAMUdjO6X=i1vTz4DsH17A@mail.gmail.com>

>>>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:52:16 -0700
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise

Earl,

Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0?  You're
describing the problem I have.

Bob
<<<

I had a nasty vibration, which proved to be exactly this. It did sound like
it came from somewhere in the passenger side of the dash. Took me years to
find. Couldn't see/fix it without removing the heater forward air duct.

IMO Bob's info is correct. Mine had been left unbolted in the distant past.
-- 

*Steve Gerow*
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 18 14:36:57 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 13:36:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] George Koeber
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-BDQ45KoYzx5OG6W0VDXCcHuBr2=0KUoyC_Bg7E6Mcbg@mail.gmail.com>

Sad news
Long time member of the Austin Healey community and the Austin Healey Club
of Oregon has passed away after from complications after falling off his
lift while working on his Healey.


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul 18 20:23:57 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 19:23:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <CA+myF4rkyBWrkviBzNoOps3OqrQhFAMUdjO6X=i1vTz4DsH17A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+myF4rkyBWrkviBzNoOps3OqrQhFAMUdjO6X=i1vTz4DsH17A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2eb1aa72-623d-e15c-3f8d-07c408715034@comcast.net>

I tried to inspect mine today and it's well-hidden behind the fresh air 
duct.? My car has been repainted at least twice; I'll bet someone forgot 
to re-bolt it up and let it go (there's a nut missing on the grill 
bracket as well).

Bob

On 7/18/2019 12:13 PM, Steve Gerow wrote:
> >>>
> From:?Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date:?Thu, 18 Jul 2019 07:52:16 -0700
> Subject:?Re: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
>
> Earl,
>
> Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0?? You're 
> describing the problem I have.
>
> Bob
>
> <<<
>
> I had a nasty vibration, which proved to be exactly this. It did sound 
> like it came from somewhere in the passenger side of the dash. Took me 
> years to find. Couldn't see/fix it without removing the heater forward 
> air duct.
>
> IMO Bob's info is correct. Mine had been left unbolted in the distant 
> past.
> -- 
> *Steve Gerow
> *
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 19 00:28:13 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 23:28:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all
Wotking on my wife's 67 B.
Bought new wire wherls for it. My Healey has disc wheels.
How do I grease them? Do I grease the wherl hubs or the spline? I want to
clean everything and inspect stuff. But I remember reading about oozing
grease due to improperly applying the stuff. I just don't recall the
correct process.
Thanks.
Btw
Car sat for over 25 years.



Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Fri Jul 19 04:42:16 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 06:42:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Ira,

I seal the wheel spokes inside the hub with clear silicone to keep grease
from climbing up the spokes then use copper anti-seize on the wheel splines.

Best regards,
Rick

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 2:33 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Howdy all
> Wotking on my wife's 67 B.
> Bought new wire wherls for it. My Healey has disc wheels.
> How do I grease them? Do I grease the wherl hubs or the spline? I want to
> clean everything and inspect stuff. But I remember reading about oozing
> grease due to improperly applying the stuff. I just don't recall the
> correct process.
> Thanks.
> Btw
> Car sat for over 25 years.
>
>
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Jul 19 08:01:28 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 07:01:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQv2JQ1Mrjm9hz1kmJPfdTvs24nTD_JPC97nY8rdasLcg@mail.gmail.com>

I agree 100% with Rick.  Copper anti-seize is the only way to go.

Curt

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 3:43 AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Ira,
>
> I seal the wheel spokes inside the hub with clear silicone to keep grease
> from climbing up the spokes then use copper anti-seize on the wheel splines.
>
> Best regards,
> Rick
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Jul 19 08:47:22 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 10:47:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001201d53e40$e179e9b0$a46dbd10$@rr.com>

I seal the heads of the spokes on the back of the hub and inside the hub next to the splines with body sealant (clean the surfaces thoroughly before sealing them).  This helps keep the grease from coming out along the spokes.  I tried several sealants, including silicone, but found them all unsatisfactory.  The silicone turned to jelly and was the devil to remove.  Whether it was the brand of silicone I used or the grease, I don't know.  The one sealant that worked without deteriorating in the presence of the grease was 3M body sealant.

 

I use wheel bearing grease, and apply it to all splined surfaces/teeth of the wheel and hub.  Put the wheel on and then remove it, remove the excess grease pushed to the rear of the splines, then reinstall the wheel.  I clean the splines and relubricate whenever I remove a wheel.  My wheels were bought new in 1990 and now have about 90,000 miles on them and are showing no wear -- nor are the hub splines.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 2:28 AM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease

 

Howdy all 

Wotking on my wife's 67 B.

Bought new wire wherls for it. My Healey has disc wheels.

How do I grease them? Do I grease the wherl hubs or the spline? I want to clean everything and inspect stuff. But I remember reading about oozing grease due to improperly applying the stuff. I just don't recall the correct process.

Thanks.

Btw

Car sat for over 25 years.

 

 

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 19 09:07:45 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:07:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQv2JQ1Mrjm9hz1kmJPfdTvs24nTD_JPC97nY8rdasLcg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQv2JQ1Mrjm9hz1kmJPfdTvs24nTD_JPC97nY8rdasLcg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <059f12ce-2b79-5402-d2a2-96323a24589d@comcast.net>

I've used various, including anti-seize, but have used wheel bearing 
grease for the last 20years/80K miles or so with no issues.

I'm presuming there is some tiny movement between the splines no matter 
how well fitted; anti-seize is formulated to prevent, well, seizing 
(i.e. parts rusting together).? Wheel bearing grease is formulated for 
heat and extreme pressures and to stay where its applied.? I've not used 
Cu anti-seize, but have seen the Al and Ni formulations dry out, leaving 
the finely-ground metal so rusting is prevented, but any lubricating 
qualities are largely gone.? I use anti-seize on spark plugs, and when 
you pull them out and look at the threads there is no lubricant 
remaining, only the metal.

*Flame suit on*

Bob

ps.? Ditto on the clear RTV to keep the hub and spokes clean(er).


On 7/19/2019 7:01 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:
> I agree 100% with Rick.? Copper anti-seize is the only way to go.
>
> Curt
>
> On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 3:43 AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com 
> <mailto:healeyrik at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hi Ira,
>
>     I seal the wheel spokes inside the hub with clear silicone to keep
>     grease from climbing up the spokes then use copper anti-seize on
>     the wheel splines.
>
>     Best regards,
>     Rick
>
>
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From schottc at knology.net  Fri Jul 19 09:13:34 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 11:13:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for sale
In-Reply-To: <1868322130.3560336.1563410283151@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1868322130.3560336.1563410283151.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1868322130.3560336.1563410283151@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1803008365.16205932.1563549214480.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Keith, 

If they're still available I'd like: 

Metal Clamps 

Wing Nuts 

Cup Washers 

Thanks, 

Charlie Schott 
117 Grand Heron Dr 
Panama City Beach, FL 32407 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Keith Pennell via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 7:38:03 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Parts for sale 

Still clearing out some inventory so here is the latest for sale offering. 

Pair front securing brackets for 3000 side curtains. L and R. VG Zinc replated. $18 
Pair rear securing brackets for 3000 side curtains. L and R. VG Zinc replated. $18 
BTW still have the side curtains L and R. Sliders fair to poor. Frame complete but finish poor. Will need all 
seals, above brackets and hardware. Free plus shipping and packing of $25. 
Pair check strap assemblies, complete. L and R. All Zn plated parts replated except large lock washers. 
Excellent. $90 for the pair and selling only as pair. 
Metal clamps for fuel line and harness . Lots of em and assorted sizes. Several newly zinc plated. Free 
2 side curtain wing nuts. Fair. Free. 
2 side curtain socket and nut. Fair. Free 
2 hexhead throttle linkage clamp bolts. Good Free 
Upholstery panel cup washers. New. Many. Free 
Fender bolts, washers and nuts. Fair to good. Many. Free 
Assorted sizes of nuts, washers, screws, bolts. General condition good but almost all need replating. Email 
me with your needs. Free. 

Above prices plus shipping from 23602. Contact me with any Qs. 
Keith 
757-877-3119 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net 


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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Jul 19 10:20:51 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 12:20:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <059f12ce-2b79-5402-d2a2-96323a24589d@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQv2JQ1Mrjm9hz1kmJPfdTvs24nTD_JPC97nY8rdasLcg@mail.gmail.com>
 <059f12ce-2b79-5402-d2a2-96323a24589d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003201d53e4d$f01d8cd0$d058a670$@rr.com>

I think the idea behind anti-seize on the splines is because some wheels don't get removed unless for cause.  Cleaning and re-lubricating more frequently than whenever also prevents the splines from seizing due to rust or anything else.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 11:08 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spline grease

 

I've used various, including anti-seize, but have used wheel bearing grease for the last 20years/80K miles or so with no issues.  

I'm presuming there is some tiny movement between the splines no matter how well fitted; anti-seize is formulated to prevent, well, seizing (i.e. parts rusting together).  Wheel bearing grease is formulated for heat and extreme pressures and to stay where its applied.  I've not used Cu anti-seize, but have seen the Al and Ni formulations dry out, leaving the finely-ground metal so rusting is prevented, but any lubricating qualities are largely gone.  I use anti-seize on spark plugs, and when you pull them out and look at the threads there is no lubricant remaining, only the metal.

*Flame suit on*

Bob

ps.  Ditto on the clear RTV to keep the hub and spokes clean(er).

 

On 7/19/2019 7:01 AM, Curtis Arndt wrote:

I agree 100% with Rick.  Copper anti-seize is the only way to go.

 

Curt

 

On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 3:43 AM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Ira, 

 

I seal the wheel spokes inside the hub with clear silicone to keep grease from climbing up the spokes then use copper anti-seize on the wheel splines.

 

Best regards,

Rick





 

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From goldengt at cal.net  Fri Jul 19 10:47:44 2019
From: goldengt at cal.net (goldengt)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 09:47:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
Message-ID: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>

When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?Ken FreeseSent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is
believed to be clean.

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From Dayton21 at comcast.net  Fri Jul 19 11:28:28 2019
From: Dayton21 at comcast.net (Mitch Simmons)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 13:28:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZfEAmCf4dqb=QTEeOFHzZD6u=15L=T3FPmrvo7VctOKNQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5996C629-9BF8-4A5F-869A-8F79FE542242@comcast.net>

Yep.....I do the same.....works great!
Mitch

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 19, 2019, at 6:42 AM, HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Ira,
> 
> I seal the wheel spokes inside the hub with clear silicone to keep grease from climbing up the spokes then use copper anti-seize on the wheel splines.
> 
> Best regards,
> Rick
> 
>> On Fri, Jul 19, 2019 at 2:33 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Howdy all 
>> Wotking on my wife's 67 B.
>> Bought new wire wherls for it. My Healey has disc wheels.
>> How do I grease them? Do I grease the wherl hubs or the spline? I want to clean everything and inspect stuff. But I remember reading about oozing grease due to improperly applying the stuff. I just don't recall the correct process.
>> Thanks.
>> Btw
>> Car sat for over 25 years.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dayton21 at comcast.net
> 
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From editorgary at aol.com  Fri Jul 19 13:21:41 2019
From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 19:21:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] What's "this" behind the dash?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1563559201.22071.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1563559201.22071.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <855318530.2343466.1563564101124@mail.yahoo.com>

 Would someone mind being a little more specific than "to be exactly this"? I can't find in the thread the reference to "This." 

Given that I have a 1960 BN7 with the roadster dash, could I also have "this" problem?

I'm going to be reinstalling a cold-air duct into the passenger foot well for the trip to South Dakota, so I've got do do some upside down work in that area, might as well figure out what can be "left unbolted" to make sure my "this" is bolted up tight. 

Thanks
gary

I had a nasty vibration, which proved to be exactly this. It did sound like
it came from somewhere in the passenger side of the dash. Took me years to
find. Couldn't see/fix it without removing the heater forward air duct.
 
 
 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jul 19 17:28:30 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 23:28:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100-4 Engine Mounts
References: <1790401319.4567054.1563578910570.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1790401319.4567054.1563578910570@mail.yahoo.com>

I could have sworn I had them, but I can not find any front engine mount hardware in my stash of stuff.? Maybe I never thought I would get this far.? Of course I am going to ask the inevitable question about any engine mount brackets someone would like to part with, but first let me ask another question.? With the state of the rubber we get today for our cars, who makes a decent rubber mounting block for the 100-4 or any engine these days?? I am hearing horror stories of rubber separation in very little time after installation.Mike MacLean
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 19 19:44:08 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 18:44:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] What's "this" behind the dash?
In-Reply-To: <855318530.2343466.1563564101124@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.5.1563559201.22071.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <855318530.2343466.1563564101124@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <505c0aeb-491d-4999-80b7-ed7842f2592f@comcast.net>

Lemme guess ... you only read the digest?

 From Earl Kagna:

"This reminds me of a similar situation that I had many years ago on my 
BJ8 ? a ?thunk? sound from the left side of the dash area (or so I 
thought) on certain bumps but not others. Drove me nuts trying to find 
it - literally for years.? Finally found it when the car was torn down 
in conjunction with the total restoration.

 ?There are 2 plates ? one on each side of the car ? called wing support 
brackets in the body manual (plate BC 2) - that tie the assembled wing / 
shroud flange to the top of the inner wheel arch.? The manual is not 
very clear on this thing.
When dismantling this part of the body, we found the pair of bolt / nut 
assemblies totally missing and clear evidence that this was the source 
of the ?thunk?.? But it sure sounded like it was coming from the dash or 
bonnet.
Your problem just might be that these bolts are there but loose, which 
could conceivably cause a creak type of sound that seems to be from the 
dash area.? Try pressing down on the right side fender / shroud close to 
the centre of the wheel cut out and maybe fore and aft a bit to see if 
you can produce a similar sound.? The bad news is that these things are 
a real pain to get to on an assembled car ? they are almost impossible 
to see, let alone service as they are up high and behind the air hoses 
on both sides, and can?t be accessed from the wheel arch because of the 
inner fender position."

 From me:

"Earl,

Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0? You're 
describing the problem I have.

Bob"

All Big Healeys, AFAIK, have these parts.? Fortunately, I bolted them up 
when we reassembled our BN2


On 7/19/2019 12:21 PM, editorgary--- via Healeys wrote:
> Would someone mind being a little more specific than "to be exactly 
> this"? I can't find in the thread the reference to "This."
>
> Given that I have a 1960 BN7 with the roadster dash, could I also have 
> "this" problem?
>
> I'm going to be reinstalling a cold-air duct into the passenger foot 
> well for the trip to South Dakota, so I've got do do some upside down 
> work in that area, might as well figure out what can be "left 
> unbolted" to make sure my "this" is bolted up tight.
>
> Thanks
> gary
>
>     I had a nasty vibration, which proved to be exactly this. It did
>     sound like
>     it came from somewhere in the passenger side of the dash. Took me
>     years to
>     find. Couldn't see/fix it without removing the heater forward air
>     duct.
>
>
>
>
>
>
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Fri Jul 19 23:01:50 2019
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 15:01:50 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Spline grease
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8-MyK=ZVVYFA6knWdHfTVKtSsqL6B1CFxEMqrou1hgonw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DF70500B-4BAD-4A25-A002-CA1C950DEBAB@gmail.com>

Hi Ira
If you lightly grease the wheel splines, and the cone surfaces, when you push the wheel onto the spined hub, and excess grease is pushed to the outside, and is easily removed. 
If you grease the splined hub, when you push the wheel on, any excess greased is pushed out to the back of the hub and gets spattered around when driving. 
Grease the wheel splines lightly, and lightly grease all the cone surfaces. 
Best
Chris 



> On 19 Jul 2019, at 4:28 pm, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Howdy all 
> Wotking on my wife's 67 B.
> Bought new wire wherls for it. My Healey has disc wheels.
> How do I grease them? Do I grease the wherl hubs or the spline? I want to clean everything and inspect stuff. But I remember reading about oozing grease due to improperly applying the stuff. I just don't recall the correct process.
> Thanks.
> Btw
> Car sat for over 25 years.
> 
> 
> 
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
> 

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Jul 20 00:39:28 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2019 23:39:28 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Tie and Center Rods
Message-ID: <be718547-bbb7-4d97-8fa6-a9a859d0b464@email.android.com>

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jul 20 05:34:41 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 07:34:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tie and Center Rods
In-Reply-To: <be718547-bbb7-4d97-8fa6-a9a859d0b464@email.android.com>
References: <be718547-bbb7-4d97-8fa6-a9a859d0b464@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLYqzxUq7rkPVUBH-8Gh97ru6C7Xg4BSH3jQ1Bdx9XAOg@mail.gmail.com>

Always a challenge.

First ensure that the thread on the joist pin and in the nut are in good
condition and OF THE SAME TYPE!!!

Insert the pin through the arm and put a bunch of washers on the pin to
just leave a few threads showing.

Install and tighten the nut to lock the pin into the taper in the arm.

Remove the nut and washers then reinstall the nut with the single washer.

Easy peasy.

M

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019, 2:39 AM Mike MacLean, <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

>      I am installing the steering in my BN2, basically the same as all big
> Healeys.  Tonight I installed the idler unit.  Then I tried connecting the
> tie rod between the tie rod and the wheel.  I started to tighten the nyloc
> nut that comes with today's tie rods and I find the pin out of the ball
> joint started turning with the nut long before it was tight.  I don't find
> any flats anywhere to stop it from spinning.  How is this done?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sat Jul 20 09:41:00 2019
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 11:41:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tie and Center Rods
In-Reply-To: <be718547-bbb7-4d97-8fa6-a9a859d0b464@email.android.com>
References: <be718547-bbb7-4d97-8fa6-a9a859d0b464@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <003b01d53f11$886a27f0$993e77d0$@sympatico.ca>

I have encountered that issue  few times.  I make sure that pin and the inside of the hole are clean free of any grease,  then I usually find a way to gently lever down (or up ? I can?t recall) on the tie rod to ?jam? the pin into the hole.  I have found that  I can generate enough friction so that I can tighten the nut.  Never done a BN2 though, so not sure if it can be done that way.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike MacLean
Sent: July-20-19 2:39 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tie and Center Rods

 

     I am installing the steering in my BN2, basically the same as all big Healeys.  Tonight I installed the idler unit.  Then I tried connecting the tie rod between the tie rod and the wheel.  I started to tighten the nyloc nut that comes with today's tie rods and I find the pin out of the ball joint started turning with the nut long before it was tight.  I don't find any flats anywhere to stop it from spinning.  How is this done?

Mike MacLean

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Jul 20 13:18:50 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 19:18:50 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>

The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps that bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.? Anyone know what thread this is?? Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there. 
Mike MacLean
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 20 13:44:32 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 12:44:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3b53ea73-7549-cf75-43fd-cbe40e5f7c9a@comcast.net>

3/8" Fine (32 TPI), same as motor mounts, shocks, bumper bracket bolts, 
etc.? If you only own two taps and dies, get 3/8"-32 and #10-32.? 
Healeys are held together with about 99% 3/8"-32 and #10-32 screws.


On 7/20/2019 12:18 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps 
> that bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.? Anyone know 
> what thread this is?? Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there.
> Mike MacLean
>
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From neilandcustom at gmail.com  Sat Jul 20 14:03:25 2019
From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 15:03:25 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <3b53ea73-7549-cf75-43fd-cbe40e5f7c9a@comcast.net>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3b53ea73-7549-cf75-43fd-cbe40e5f7c9a@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAHZDnjqYMUCqGWoAqV1_+Xagfe5CHcSSNMzck3iK=oOdBpT=GA@mail.gmail.com>

I believe that would be 3/8" - 24 tpi.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/measuring/us-tpi.aspx

Neil Anderson

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 2:44 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> 3/8" Fine (32 TPI), same as motor mounts, shocks, bumper bracket bolts,
> etc.  If you only own two taps and dies, get 3/8"-32 and #10-32.  Healeys
> are held together with about 99% 3/8"-32 and #10-32 screws.
>
>
> On 7/20/2019 12:18 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>
> The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps that
> bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.  Anyone know what thread
> this is?  Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 20 14:08:23 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 13:08:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <CAHZDnjqYMUCqGWoAqV1_+Xagfe5CHcSSNMzck3iK=oOdBpT=GA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3b53ea73-7549-cf75-43fd-cbe40e5f7c9a@comcast.net>
 <CAHZDnjqYMUCqGWoAqV1_+Xagfe5CHcSSNMzck3iK=oOdBpT=GA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <09582aa0-1d52-8c94-974b-2f986dd1f583@comcast.net>

Think you're right ... got the screws and bolts mixed-up.

On 7/20/2019 1:03 PM, Neil Anderson wrote:
> I believe that would be 3/8" - 24 tpi.
>
> https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/measuring/us-tpi.aspx
>
> Neil Anderson
>
> On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 2:44 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     3/8" Fine (32 TPI), same as motor mounts, shocks, bumper bracket
>     bolts, etc.? If you only own two taps and dies, get 3/8"-32 and
>     #10-32.? Healeys are held together with about 99% 3/8"-32 and
>     #10-32 screws.
>
>
>     On 7/20/2019 12:18 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>>     The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing
>>     straps that bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.?
>>     Anyone know what thread this is?? Before I go jamming a UNF bolt
>>     in there.
>>     Mike MacLean
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sat Jul 20 14:51:37 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 20:51:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <09582aa0-1d52-8c94-974b-2f986dd1f583@comcast.net>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <3b53ea73-7549-cf75-43fd-cbe40e5f7c9a@comcast.net>
 <CAHZDnjqYMUCqGWoAqV1_+Xagfe5CHcSSNMzck3iK=oOdBpT=GA@mail.gmail.com>
 <09582aa0-1d52-8c94-974b-2f986dd1f583@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1821849219.268367.1563655897942@mail.yahoo.com>

 OK, so you all saying this is a UNF thread, NOT a BSF thread?? The only reason I ask is all the bolts to mount the steering idler and steering box are BSF.
Mike M

    On Saturday, July 20, 2019, 1:08:51 PM PDT, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
  
Think you're right ... got the screws and bolts mixed-up.
 
 On 7/20/2019 1:03 PM, Neil Anderson wrote:
  
 
  I believe that would be 3/8" - 24 tpi. 
  https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/measuring/us-tpi.aspx 
  Neil Anderson
    
  On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 2:44 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
  
  
3/8" Fine (32 TPI), same as motor mounts, shocks, bumper bracket bolts, etc.? If you only own two taps and dies, get 3/8"-32 and #10-32.? Healeys are held together with about 99% 3/8"-32 and #10-32 screws.
 

 
 On 7/20/2019 12:18 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
  
  The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps that bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.? Anyone know what thread this is?? Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there. 
  Mike MacLean
   
 
  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com
 
 
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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jul 20 17:28:04 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 19:28:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLz5tP8VA9E0dvBh0uFZ193n_bZrryt7E2zXHrc4vvuUw@mail.gmail.com>

The part number is 53K2036. Which is an old Austin number.
It changes in the 6 cylinder cars to HZS0506 which is a 5/16" zinc plated
3/4" long UNF hex head.

I'm not sure what to make of that but I would be suspicious that they may
be 5/16 BSF...

M

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 3:19 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps that
> bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.  Anyone know what thread
> this is?  Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jul 20 19:14:45 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 18:14:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLz5tP8VA9E0dvBh0uFZ193n_bZrryt7E2zXHrc4vvuUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LLz5tP8VA9E0dvBh0uFZ193n_bZrryt7E2zXHrc4vvuUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTw8fL5_uRRO8bJ2uTT2WhWhrJpfCAm5JDiC1JeAwKh+Q@mail.gmail.com>

OK Guys, They are 5/16" X 1" UNF for BN2s and even on my BN1 they are UNF.

BSF (Whitworth) are typically used on primarily the engine, gearbox rear
axle and front suspension. Except for some early BN1s ('53's), almost ALL
body fasteners for 100s were UNF (with a few exceptions that I won't bore
you with).

By the BN2, even most of the front suspension fasteners were changing to
UNF so be careful.

BTW, I own four thread gauges, UNF/UNC/SAE, BSF/BSW Whitworth, BA and
Metric.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 5:45 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> The part number is 53K2036. Which is an old Austin number.
> It changes in the 6 cylinder cars to HZS0506 which is a 5/16" zinc plated
> 3/4" long UNF hex head.
>
> I'm not sure what to make of that but I would be suspicious that they may
> be 5/16 BSF...
>
> M
>
> On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 3:19 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps that
>> bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.  Anyone know what thread
>> this is?  Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there.
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jul 20 19:28:22 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 21:28:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLz5tP8VA9E0dvBh0uFZ193n_bZrryt7E2zXHrc4vvuUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LLz5tP8VA9E0dvBh0uFZ193n_bZrryt7E2zXHrc4vvuUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F8FDC0F2-9306-40F0-8410-A334EE47AD24@aol.com>

Ok... enthralled by another guess the bolt game. Went to the garage and pulled out the BN 1 front frame section, cleaned the threads and iD?d the holes as 5/16 threads not 3/8. 
Pulled one of the bolts on our BN2 and is a 5/16 -24. Hole on BN1 is courser (if there is such a word) so pulled out what I thought was a 1/4 Whitworth bolt (only indentified by the odd head size at 0.525 and it threaded in reasonably well. Other holes the same. 
Since a 5/16 BSW has the same size head as the 1/4 Whitworth bolt in hand may have been a BSW. 
Conclusion, either someone with too much time on his hands was running around with an old tap many years ago or that the subject threaded holes are definitely not 5/16 UNF. 
I retreated from the garage to the house to resume enjoying the air conditioning. The east coast is roasting today. 
Perry


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 20, 2019, at 7:28 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> The part number is 53K2036. Which is an old Austin number.
> It changes in the 6 cylinder cars to HZS0506 which is a 5/16" zinc plated 3/4" long UNF hex head.
> 
> I'm not sure what to make of that but I would be suspicious that they may be 5/16 BSF...
> 
> M
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 3:19 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>> The Moss catalog does not list the four bolts for the bushing straps that bolt the bushings to the frame rails on a BN1/2.  Anyone know what thread this is?  Before I go jamming a UNF bolt in there. 
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Jul 20 19:45:38 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sat, 20 Jul 2019 18:45:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti Sway Bar Straps
In-Reply-To: <F8FDC0F2-9306-40F0-8410-A334EE47AD24@aol.com>
References: <1196171342.249070.1563650330852.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1196171342.249070.1563650330852@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LLz5tP8VA9E0dvBh0uFZ193n_bZrryt7E2zXHrc4vvuUw@mail.gmail.com>
 <F8FDC0F2-9306-40F0-8410-A334EE47AD24@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRiv_g_463fe1TkxR0uCnsOtKt+BU1t6TDqmeQon5U3Dw@mail.gmail.com>

Perry,

Here in lies one problem with some 5/16" bolts...  A 5/16" UNC bolt has 18
TPI.  A 5/16"BSW bolt also has 18 TPI.  HOWEVER they are not
interchangeable.

Case in point, the Aluminum front plate on the BN1/2 generators where the
adjusting link attaches is tapped for a 5/16" bolt... *A 5/16" BSW bolt*!
However, over the years they were replaced by owners with 5/16" UNC bolts
from their local hardware store, because... They also have 18 TPI.. Yes
they will thread in and tighten down, but Whitworth, by definition is a
thread form with a 55 degree thread pitch angle while UNF/UNC are a 60
degree thread pitch angle.

Because of this 5 degree difference, sooner or later the bolt will loosen,
and the threads in the front plate will be destroyed.  Buyeye Sprite
generator front plates are exactly the same!

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Jul 20, 2019 at 6:29 PM Perry Small via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Ok... enthralled by another guess the bolt game. Went to the garage and
> pulled out the BN 1 front frame section, cleaned the threads and iD?d the
> holes as 5/16 threads not 3/8.
> Pulled one of the bolts on our BN2 and is a 5/16 -24. Hole on BN1 is
> courser (if there is such a word) so pulled out what I thought was a 1/4
> Whitworth bolt (only indentified by the odd head size at 0.525 and it
> threaded in reasonably well. Other holes the same.
> Since a 5/16 BSW has the same size head as the 1/4 Whitworth bolt in hand
> may have been a BSW.
> Conclusion, either someone with too much time on his hands was running
> around with an old tap many years ago or that the subject threaded holes
> are definitely not 5/16 UNF.
> I retreated from the garage to the house to resume enjoying the air
> conditioning. The east coast is roasting today.
> Perry
>
>
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From schottc at knology.net  Sun Jul 21 15:58:06 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 17:58:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant?
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB287845321A4702807CAA6FCAA5F20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <40b2d7e3-2c3d-4c33-918f-e6b56bd30978@email.android.com>
 <722913499.5832404.1562885300959.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <MWHPR07MB287845321A4702807CAA6FCAA5F20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1011973129.18827184.1563746286603.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

The chassis needed floor pans, B pillars and door sills. My friend has a real challenge in replacing the front of the chassis, Anyone know where he can get one? 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com> 
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>, "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 10:15:04 PM 
Subject: Re: Mind if I Rant? 

Yours could be just as aggressive. The condition of the chassis is what makes the difference. 

Bill Lawrence 
BN1 #554 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> 
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 10:48 PM 
To: Mike MacLean 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant? 
Mike, 

That's a very aggressive project you're undertaking. Here is what my 100 BN1 looked like when I got it. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 


From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 3:18:58 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Mind if I Rant? 

I am beginning to understand what a restorer friend of mine once told me. He said he could restore three BJ8 cars in the time it took to do a 100. Virtually no parts I have bought from the usual suspects for my BN2 are easy to install. Nothing fits like it was made for the car. This morning I made an attempt to bolt up the two bump stop boxes over the rear axle. None of the holes in the part lined up with the holes in the body above the rear axle. I will have to auger out at least three of the holes in the bump stop box to get all four bolts in. This car is fighting me every step of the way. I guess it's like my restorer friend who has since passed told me when he sold me that rolling frame with a few body panels on it, "Go ahead buy the car, it will give you a reason to live". I am beginning to understand what he meant. Half the time I am pulling my hair out and inventing new curse words, but I go out to that garage everyday and try to accomplish something on the car, even if I end up beating my head against the wall, I keep coming back. Rant over. 
Mike MacLean 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Jul 21 16:29:49 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 15:29:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Motor Mounts found!
Message-ID: <16ebb8e1-bc0e-4954-a83f-9dcd49bf658d@email.android.com>

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul 21 19:53:45 2019
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 21:53:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
Message-ID: <002301d54030$4c946860$e5bd3920$@sympatico.ca>

Hi all,

 

Anyone have some suggestion for some good quality spray paint (rattle can) that is a good match for ?wire wheel dull silver?.

 

Thanks,  Mirek

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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 21 20:40:25 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 21 Jul 2019 19:40:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Wheel Paint
In-Reply-To: <002301d54030$4c946860$e5bd3920$@sympatico.ca>
References: <002301d54030$4c946860$e5bd3920$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRhx=guTybMbXbxdLwnQwPs7--oKPO-EqjNDAj-KXa=SA@mail.gmail.com>

Moss Motors...

https://mossmotors.com/spray-paint-wheels-valve-cover-silver

On Sun, Jul 21, 2019 at 6:54 PM Mirek Sharp <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
>
>
> Anyone have some suggestion for some good quality spray paint (rattle can)
> that is a good match for ?wire wheel dull silver?.
>
>
>
> Thanks,  Mirek
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
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>
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Mon Jul 22 10:42:55 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 09:42:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
Message-ID: <9CC33044383E430FAEFC596FD3BB0D39@DavidNockHP>

We are restoring a second owner BN1 that was sent to Warwick and modified to M spec to include the correct cam and carbs .  All parts had the right numbers and the hood has no number on it with the louvers.

It was built in about July 55



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: goldengt 
Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 9:47 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates

When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
Ken Freese



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-- 
This message has been scanned for viruses and 
dangerous content by MailScanner, and is 
believed to be clean. 


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 11:04:48 2019
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:04:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
Message-ID: <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>

If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
Ken 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net> wrote:
> 
> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
> Ken Freese
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is 
> believed to be clean.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Jul 22 11:31:21 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 11:31:21 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>

I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense 
with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..

On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
> Ken
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net 
> <mailto:goldengt at cal.net>> wrote:
>
>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>> Ken Freese
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>
>> -- 
>> This message has been scanned for viruses and
>> dangerous content by *MailScanner* <http://www.mailscanner.info/>, 
>> and is
>> believed to be clean.
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From healey100m at me.com  Mon Jul 22 11:42:38 2019
From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:42:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
 <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <63275BF0-2DA5-4F20-A21E-9CEFFDED9DA0@me.com>

In the AHCA 100 Registry I show the first ?Le Mans Kit? being installed February 1954. Body #1706.

Randy

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..
> 
> On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
>> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
>> Ken 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net <mailto:goldengt at cal.net>> wrote:
>> 
>>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>>> Ken Freese
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
> 

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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 11:49:09 2019
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:49:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
 <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <00A34868-B73E-4EF5-BFB2-13C07E5EA1C2@aol.com>

David, just confirmed that in late 53 Donald Healey Motor Co begin offering kit P280 to BMC dealers. I would assume West Coast likely were on the front end of that offering
So yes late 53.
Ken

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..
> 
>> On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
>> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
>> Ken 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>>> Ken Freese
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
>>> dangerous content by             MailScanner, and is 
>>> believed to be clean.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
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From healey100m at me.com  Mon Jul 22 11:53:45 2019
From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:53:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <9CC33044383E430FAEFC596FD3BB0D39@DavidNockHP>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <9CC33044383E430FAEFC596FD3BB0D39@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <931EF70E-4232-410B-A745-5677DEF3B835@me.com>

This was probably one of the early ?Austin-Healey 100 with Le Mans Modification? cars. (The first factory built 100M was built Sept. 5, 1956.)

I only seen DOCUMENTATION on one of these Le Mans modified cars (in US) but understand the are a couple documented ones in the UK. There are several suspected in the US but without documentation.

Randy





> On Jul 22, 2019, at 12:42 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> We are restoring a second owner BN1 that was sent to Warwick and modified to M spec to include the correct cam and carbs .  All parts had the right numbers and the hood has no number on it with the louvers.
>  
> It was built in about July 55
>  
>  
>  
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> 
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>  
> From: goldengt <mailto:goldengt at cal.net>
> Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 9:47 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
>  
> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
> Ken Freese
>  
>  
>  
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
> dangerous content by MailScanner <http://www.mailscanner.info/>, and is 
> believed to be clean.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 12:07:48 2019
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:07:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <931EF70E-4232-410B-A745-5677DEF3B835@me.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <9CC33044383E430FAEFC596FD3BB0D39@DavidNockHP>
 <931EF70E-4232-410B-A745-5677DEF3B835@me.com>
Message-ID: <F1975C65-4B16-4298-BF0E-B31920324B49@aol.com>



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:53 PM, Randy Hicks via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> This was probably one of the early ?Austin-Healey 100 with Le Mans Modification? cars. (The first factory built 100M was built Sept. 5, 1956.)
> 
> I only seen DOCUMENTATION on one of these Le Mans modified cars (in US) but understand the are a couple documented ones in the UK. There are several suspected in the US but without documentation.
> 
> Randy
> 
> <3 speed M0007 Web.jpeg>
> 
> <3 speed M0008 Web.jpeg>
> 
>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 12:42 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> We are restoring a second owner BN1 that was sent to Warwick and modified to M spec to include the correct cam and carbs .  All parts had the right numbers and the hood has no number on it with the louvers.
>>  
>> It was built in about July 55
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> David Nock
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> 209 948 8767
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>> 
>> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
>> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
>> by visiting the site at.
>> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>>  
>> From: goldengt
>> Sent: Friday, July 19, 2019 9:47 AM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
>>  
>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>> Ken Freese
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>> -- 
>> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
>> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is 
>> believed to be clean.
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 12:10:09 2019
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:10:09 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
 <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <AE19C2E8-2E31-4F1F-8DC0-5A0C7F3E2F06@aol.com>

In the document that Randy shared which is the brochure it referenced overdrive on second and top which would be applicable to a BN1 only not a BN2 which would further date the offering.
Ken

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..
> 
>> On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
>> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
>> Ken 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net> wrote:
>> 
>>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>>> Ken Freese
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
>>> dangerous content by             MailScanner, and is 
>>> believed to be clean.
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 12:39:17 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:39:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <00A34868-B73E-4EF5-BFB2-13C07E5EA1C2@aol.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
 <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
 <00A34868-B73E-4EF5-BFB2-13C07E5EA1C2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EDE3F05E-4311-4E29-9983-02BB4618F272@aol.com>

Curious. Why did it take from 1953 to 1955 to build a real 100m if the parts were readily available?  Maybe I?m overlooking an obvious reason. 
Thanks
P 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> David, just confirmed that in late 53 Donald Healey Motor Co begin offering kit P280 to BMC dealers. I would assume West Coast likely were on the front end of that offering
> So yes late 53.
> Ken
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..
>> 
>>> On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
>>> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
>>> Ken 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>>>> Ken Freese
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>>> 
>>>> -- 
>>>> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
>>>> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is 
>>>> believed to be clean.
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>> 
>> -- 
>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 22 12:53:12 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 11:53:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
Message-ID: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came with
little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look great, I am
concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted
to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are
5.5" rims, so they should fit...
Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. the
205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
Thanks
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From ahmg at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 12:53:14 2019
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 14:53:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <EDE3F05E-4311-4E29-9983-02BB4618F272@aol.com>
References: <20190719164749.2AD3A1A0C69@mail.cal.net>
 <4CAA8002-817B-42CB-9A38-617A964108A5@aol.com>
 <81c19637-3e81-4781-882f-fb5a32406996@porterscustom.com>
 <00A34868-B73E-4EF5-BFB2-13C07E5EA1C2@aol.com>
 <EDE3F05E-4311-4E29-9983-02BB4618F272@aol.com>
Message-ID: <5E40CC8F-918E-4C18-84B7-A515D9975743@aol.com>

Perry, I  am certainly not the knowledge base on the subject and their are others that have deeper knowledge. 
In fact the earlier converted cars were actually in less numbers and served as the basis for the production 100M. DMH saw an opportunity to market the performance mods especially to the US market. Though the number of kits sold has been debated, the number of 519 I believe has been shared over the years starting with Geoff Healey who quoted 1159 M were produced of which the 640 is included, but no documentation exists to confirm.
If that is case, then there are less converted pre production M then factory though the factory M were a result of the converted ones.
I have a Aug 54 100 that was converted in period.
Good discussion on the subject and I am open to more information on the subject from the list.
Ken


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> Curious. Why did it take from 1953 to 1955 to build a real 100m if the parts were readily available?  Maybe I?m overlooking an obvious reason. 
> Thanks
> P 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> David, just confirmed that in late 53 Donald Healey Motor Co begin offering kit P280 to BMC dealers. I would assume West Coast likely were on the front end of that offering
>> So yes late 53.
>> Ken
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..
>>> 
>>>> On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
>>>> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
>>>> Ken 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
>>>>> Ken Freese
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>>>> 
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
>>>>> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is 
>>>>> believed to be clean.
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>> 
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>> 
>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>> 
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>> 
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Jul 22 13:13:17 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 21:13:17 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8fd3a580-9be2-f124-ee8e-bcad41e9090f@chello.nl>

The 205mm width of the tyres is appearently regarded to be the maximum 
for 5,5" wide wheel rims. 185mm wide tires should be perfect. Do not use 
tyres older than about 10 years, most certainly not on performance cars, 
old or new.

Kees Oudesluijs




Op 22-7-2019 om 20:53 schreef i erbs:
> Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came 
> with little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look 
> great, I am concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 
> 185/15s mounted to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims 
> and the minilites are 5.5" rims, so they should fit...
> Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. 
> the 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB MG
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 22 13:24:07 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 12:24:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <8fd3a580-9be2-f124-ee8e-bcad41e9090f@chello.nl>
References: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
 <8fd3a580-9be2-f124-ee8e-bcad41e9090f@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz897r6HCVoQqWKtHJKhOwpRWFQSLHbjRssMHKuhk8R389g@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Kees, The tires are at least 10 years old. Too bad as they look
brand new. I'm Ok with using them to putt around town, but I would feel
better not using them for any long distance jaunts.
Cheers
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 12:17 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> The 205mm width of the tyres is appearently regarded to be the maximum for
> 5,5" wide wheel rims. 185mm wide tires should be perfect. Do not use tyres
> older than about 10 years, most certainly not on performance cars, old or
> new.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
> Op 22-7-2019 om 20:53 schreef i erbs:
>
> Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came with
> little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look great, I am
> concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted
> to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are
> 5.5" rims, so they should fit...
> Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. the
> 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virusvrij.
> www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_6916628700161286984_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul 22 14:48:13 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:48:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz897r6HCVoQqWKtHJKhOwpRWFQSLHbjRssMHKuhk8R389g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <548b1241-bd08-4e38-9898-014043d2b467@email.android.com>

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul 22 14:52:06 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 13:52:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <5E40CC8F-918E-4C18-84B7-A515D9975743@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6f70f19a-a31f-4ac6-ada8-b8d302a69174@email.android.com>

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From healey100m at me.com  Mon Jul 22 15:14:01 2019
From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 17:14:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <6f70f19a-a31f-4ac6-ada8-b8d302a69174@email.android.com>
References: <6f70f19a-a31f-4ac6-ada8-b8d302a69174@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <53DCA286-5B64-4B5B-BFB5-FD8BA4BE04D3@me.com>

Not when you consider the stiffer suspension/better handling & 25% more horsepower. Significantly better driving car than std. BN2.

But yes, it was a marketing ploy to some but better cars.

No different than 356 Speedster- stripped down to make it cheaper but turned out better and pricey today!!

Randy

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 4:52 PM, Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Hate to be cynical about it, but weren't the factory M cars just a marketing strategy to gin up the slow sales after the next big thing was announced? ( 6 cylinder cars)
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Jul 22, 2019 11:53 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Perry, I  am certainly not the knowledge base on the subject and their are others that have deeper knowledge. 
> In fact the earlier converted cars were actually in less numbers and served as the basis for the production 100M. DMH saw an opportunity to market the performance mods especially to the US market. Though the number of kits sold has been debated, the number of 519 I believe has been shared over the years starting with Geoff Healey who quoted 1159 M were produced of which the 640 is included, but no documentation exists to confirm.
> If that is case, then there are less converted pre production M then factory though the factory M were a result of the converted ones.
> I have a Aug 54 100 that was converted in period.
> Good discussion on the subject and I am open to more information on the subject from the list.
> Ken
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 22, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> Curious. Why did it take from 1953 to 1955 to build a real 100m if the parts were readily available?  Maybe I?m overlooking an obvious reason. 
> Thanks
> P 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> David, just confirmed that in late 53 Donald Healey Motor Co begin offering kit P280 to BMC dealers. I would assume West Coast likely were on the front end of that offering
> So yes late 53.
> Ken
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was coming..
> 
> On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
> If my memory serves me the first kits were available as early as 53.
> Ken 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jul 19, 2019, at 12:47 PM, goldengt <goldengt at cal.net> wrote:
> 
> When where the first Ms or kits available to West Coast dealers?
> Ken Freese
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
> -- 
> This message has been scanned for viruses and 
> dangerous content by MailScanner, and is 
> believed to be clean.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
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> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
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> 
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> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> _______________________________________________
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Mon Jul 22 15:14:37 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 23:14:37 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] 100M dates
In-Reply-To: <6f70f19a-a31f-4ac6-ada8-b8d302a69174@email.android.com>
References: <5E40CC8F-918E-4C18-84B7-A515D9975743@aol.com>
 <6f70f19a-a31f-4ac6-ada8-b8d302a69174@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1563830077257.1520019.ccb89b978e353500eaba2e7144fdfb6aa06fdca6@spica.telekom.de>

Mike,
I am fully with you. DHMC needed some money and they got it by selling and 
botching in the modifications.
DHMC sold every gadget they could offer for the cars.
 
Josef Eckert
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100M dates
Datum: 2019-07-22T23:02:14+0200
Von: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
An: "Ken Fleming" <ahmg at aol.com>
 
 
 
Hate to be cynical about it, but weren't the factory M cars just a 
marketing strategy to gin up the slow sales after the next big thing was 
announced? ( 6 cylinder cars)
Mike MacLean
On Jul 22, 2019 11:53 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> 
wrote:
  Perry, I  am certainly not the knowledge base on the subject and their
  are others that have deeper knowledge. 
  In fact the earlier converted cars were actually in less numbers and
  served as the basis for the production 100M. DMH saw an opportunity to
  market the performance mods especially to the US market. Though the
  number of kits sold has been debated, the number of 519 I believe has
  been shared over the years starting with Geoff Healey who quoted 1159 M
  were produced of which the 640 is included, but no documentation exists
  to confirm.
  If that is case, then there are less converted pre production M then
  factory though the factory M were a result of the converted ones.
  I have a Aug 54 100 that was converted in period.
  Good discussion on the subject and I am open to more information on the
  subject from the list.
  Ken


  Sent from my iPhone

  On Jul 22, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com
  <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com> > wrote:


      Curious. Why did it take from 1953 to 1955 to build a real 100m if
      the parts were readily available?  Maybe I?m overlooking an obvious
      reason. 
      Thanks
      P 

      Sent from my iPhone

      On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Ken Fleming via Healeys <
      healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:


           
          David, just confirmed that in late 53 Donald Healey Motor Co
          begin offering kit P280 to BMC dealers. I would assume West Coast
          likely were on the front end of that offering
          So yes late 53.
          Ken

          Sent from my iPhone

          On Jul 22, 2019, at 1:31 PM, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com
          <mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com> > wrote:


              I don't think that is correct. Maybe very late '55- makes
              more sense with them knowing that the end of the 4cyl was
              coming..
              On 7/22/2019 11:04 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:

                  If my memory serves me the first kits were available as
                  early as 53.
                  Ken 

                  Sent from my iPhone

?
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From wwycoffbn7 at aol.com  Mon Jul 22 15:29:15 2019
From: wwycoffbn7 at aol.com (wwycoffbn7 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 21:29:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Air filters for an early 3000
References: <1397035960.3090091.1563830955429.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1397035960.3090091.1563830955429@mail.yahoo.com>



Hi, Team

?

Thanks for the fine discussion and great information in response to my air filter question.?

?

This group is an astounding resource!

?

Best Regards, Bill



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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 22 16:29:25 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 15:29:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <548b1241-bd08-4e38-9898-014043d2b467@email.android.com>
References: <CABXhz897r6HCVoQqWKtHJKhOwpRWFQSLHbjRssMHKuhk8R389g@mail.gmail.com>
 <548b1241-bd08-4e38-9898-014043d2b467@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88eZD93-mkLw5fd1ES760z6+eKYupJgTjBgO=o7Vrnq9A@mail.gmail.com>

Lolz
Just saving up to replace them asap

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019, 1:48 PM Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

> What if a tire blew?  Most accidents happen within 25 miles of home.  That
> being said I would probably drive around town on them too.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Jul 22, 2019 12:24 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Kees, The tires are at least 10 years old. Too bad as they look
> brand new. I'm Ok with using them to putt around town, but I would feel
> better not using them for any long distance jaunts.
> Cheers
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 12:17 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
> The 205mm width of the tyres is appearently regarded to be the maximum for
> 5,5" wide wheel rims. 185mm wide tires should be perfect. Do not use tyres
> older than about 10 years, most certainly not on performance cars, old or
> new.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
> Op 22-7-2019 om 20:53 schreef i erbs:
>
> Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came with
> little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look great, I am
> concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted
> to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are
> 5.5" rims, so they should fit...
> Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. the
> 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virusvrij.
> www.avg.com
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> <#m_2423593859708203690_m_6916628700161286984_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Mon Jul 22 20:58:41 2019
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Mon, 22 Jul 2019 19:58:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?knock?=
Message-ID: <20190723025841.14164.qmail@server278.com>

have a little over 1000 miles on my car since the engine was redone this winter.  have discovered a knock in the front of the 
engine which disappears as soon as oil pressure comes up.  suspecting bad bearing dropped pan and pastigaged the 
bearings.  less than .001 with no visible wear.  crank was reground and new bearings.  also replaced the timing chain 
tensioner and damper.  will not knock when starting cold.  any ideas?

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul 22 22:43:41 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 04:43:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
References: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722@mail.yahoo.com>

What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.? What good is that?? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose.? 
Mike MacLean
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From john at jtkarowe.com.au  Mon Jul 22 22:56:19 2019
From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 14:56:19 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <20190723025841.14164.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20190723025841.14164.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <001201d54112$f86a7200$e93f5600$@com.au>

Loose pulley on keyway

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
healeymanjim
Sent: Tuesday, 23 July 2019 12:59 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] knock

have a little over 1000 miles on my car since the engine was redone this
winter.  have discovered a knock in the front of the 
engine which disappears as soon as oil pressure comes up.  suspecting bad
bearing dropped pan and pastigaged the 
bearings.  less than .001 with no visible wear.  crank was reground and new
bearings.  also replaced the timing chain 
tensioner and damper.  will not knock when starting cold.  any ideas?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au


From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 05:20:20 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 04:20:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRCZVWpp122DU3q_n8++5Ve3UDKW4CHZqONx1McLs35cQ@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

Off the top of my head, I believe that BN1/2 sway bars were 1/2"in diameter
and that 100M sway bars were larger, I think 5/8" diameter, the same as the
six-cylinder cars.

Curt

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 9:44 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?  I just tried to put urethane
> bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a
> metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.  What good is
> that?  I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a
> little loose.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 05:42:04 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 07:42:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <001201d54112$f86a7200$e93f5600$@com.au>
References: <20190723025841.14164.qmail@server278.com>
 <001201d54112$f86a7200$e93f5600$@com.au>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKCAJXrC9e0XfMCppc9mCD1mv1dXdKyg-nf8GDJY4Oq0w@mail.gmail.com>

I encountered numerous cases of loose front pulleys and dampeners on 6
cylinder engines  ... check that carefully.

M

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 12:56 AM John Rowe, <john at jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> Loose pulley on keyway
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> healeymanjim
> Sent: Tuesday, 23 July 2019 12:59 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] knock
>
> have a little over 1000 miles on my car since the engine was redone this
> winter.  have discovered a knock in the front of the
> engine which disappears as soon as oil pressure comes up.  suspecting bad
> bearing dropped pan and pastigaged the
> bearings.  less than .001 with no visible wear.  crank was reground and new
> bearings.  also replaced the timing chain
> tensioner and damper.  will not knock when starting cold.  any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
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From schottc at knology.net  Tue Jul 23 07:16:40 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 09:16:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <935759766.1727905.1563887800951.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Mike, 

They can be 5/8", 3/4" or 7/8". 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
To: "Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2019 11:43:41 PM 
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 

What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big. What good is that? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose. 
Mike MacLean 

_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 07:24:21 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 09:24:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRCZVWpp122DU3q_n8++5Ve3UDKW4CHZqONx1McLs35cQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1159666143.1219135.1563857021722@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeRCZVWpp122DU3q_n8++5Ve3UDKW4CHZqONx1McLs35cQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+xuqTOm=8prBOVDdZLWRxPt+KjYnZFMuEdaa2wVrAoHg@mail.gmail.com>

I concur with Curt.
I suspect that you have bearings (bushes) for the 6 cyl (M) anti-roll bar.

M


On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 7:24 AM Curtis Arndt, <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Off the top of my head, I believe that BN1/2 sway bars were 1/2"in
> diameter and that 100M sway bars were larger, I think 5/8" diameter, the
> same as the six-cylinder cars.
>
> Curt
>
> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 9:44 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
>> What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?  I just tried to put
>> urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held
>> on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.  What
>> good is that?  I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but
>> still a little loose.
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul 23 11:37:55 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 10:37:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <201907231348.x6NDmfml028205@flpd576.prodigy.net>
Message-ID: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>

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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Tue Jul 23 12:18:11 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 20:18:11 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
References: <201907231348.x6NDmfml028205@flpd576.prodigy.net>
 <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1563905891883.3644059.b109f6da9bd62b203cd7c8a0b35c32e3bf61cdaa@spica.telekom.de>

Sorry, I habe to correct you. Bugeyes never had a sway bar.
Josef Eckert



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Gesendet mit der Telekom Mail App
<https://kommunikationsdienste.t-online.de/redirects/email_app_android_sendmail_footer>


--- Original-Nachricht ---
Von: Mike MacLean
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
Datum: 23.07.2019, 18:37 Uhr
An: Perry
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net


It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.   My curiosity was 
rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.  That 
was 1/2" diameter also.  I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the 
Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later 
Spridgets.  The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for 
mounting a sway bar.  The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".  It doesn't seem 
right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
Mike MacLean

On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

  Mike

  Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway
  bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were &frac12; inch and the rest 5/8
  inch.  Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last
  resto. Have had that car for 54 years.

  P

   

   

  Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
  Windows 10

   

  From: Michael MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
  Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM
  To: Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
  Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar

   

  What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?  I just tried to put
  urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held
  on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.  What
  good is that?  I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but
  still a little loose. 

  Mike MacLean

   

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_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef-eckert at t-online.de


From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul 23 12:46:16 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Mike MacLean)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 11:46:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1563905891883.3644059.b109f6da9bd62b203cd7c8a0b35c32e3bf61cdaa@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <8cab5876-52c0-4a31-80a5-a8dfb851a9f0@email.android.com>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 13:38:27 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 15:38:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <548b1241-bd08-4e38-9898-014043d2b467@email.android.com>
References: <CABXhz897r6HCVoQqWKtHJKhOwpRWFQSLHbjRssMHKuhk8R389g@mail.gmail.com>
 <548b1241-bd08-4e38-9898-014043d2b467@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6KOJO_u5nQQW3aP9ZW3sAim8kwh43bYLO83eKd41Ln+g@mail.gmail.com>

*"Most accidents happen within 25 miles of one's home"*

I heard this adage, so I moved.

Best--Michael Oritt



On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 4:49 PM Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> What if a tire blew?  Most accidents happen within 25 miles of home.  That
> being said I would probably drive around town on them too.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Jul 22, 2019 12:24 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Kees, The tires are at least 10 years old. Too bad as they look
> brand new. I'm Ok with using them to putt around town, but I would feel
> better not using them for any long distance jaunts.
> Cheers
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 12:17 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
> The 205mm width of the tyres is appearently regarded to be the maximum for
> 5,5" wide wheel rims. 185mm wide tires should be perfect. Do not use tyres
> older than about 10 years, most certainly not on performance cars, old or
> new.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
> Op 22-7-2019 om 20:53 schreef i erbs:
>
> Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came with
> little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look great, I am
> concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted
> to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are
> 5.5" rims, so they should fit...
> Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. the
> 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virusvrij.
> www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_8616065856085720214_m_6916628700161286984_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Tue Jul 23 14:38:14 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 22:38:14 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <8cab5876-52c0-4a31-80a5-a8dfb851a9f0@email.android.com>
References: <1563905891883.3644059.b109f6da9bd62b203cd7c8a0b35c32e3bf61cdaa@spica.telekom.de>
 <8cab5876-52c0-4a31-80a5-a8dfb851a9f0@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1563914294772.3657571.fc81696a28d217d7c0a579fb83b37a5073eb9b42@spica.telekom.de>

Mike,
next time you tell me your Bugeye had a Shorrock Superchharger.
Yes, maybe, but not fitted by rhe factory.
 
Josef Eckert
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: AW: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
Datum: 2019-07-23T20:46:30+0200
Von: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
 
 
 
 
Josef,
     Look at the bottom of the front frame rails on any Bugeye.  You will 
find pre-driiled and tapped holes for sway bar brackets.  The Bugeye sway 
bar was offered as an optional performance upgrade at BMC dealers.  You had 
to drill two holes in the lower a-arms to mount the sway bar links.  You 
are correct in the sense a Bugeye did not come with a sway bar at point of 
purchase, but the dealer sold many performance products offered by the 
manufacturer.  Terry Horler's book "Original Sprite & Midget" mentions the 
anti-sway bar offered by Healey Motor Company on page 31.  There is a 
picture of the bar there, but it's a little dark, but you can see the two 
bolt mounting bracket on the lower a-arms that needed holes drilled for 
them.
Mike MacLean
 

On Jul 23, 2019 11:18 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:
  Sorry, I habe to correct you. Bugeyes never had a sway bar.
  Josef Eckert



  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
  Gesendet mit der Telekom Mail App
  <https://kommunikationsdienste.t-online.de/redirects/email_app_android_sendmail_footer>


  --- Original-Nachricht ---
  Von: Mike MacLean
  Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
  Datum: 23.07.2019, 18:37 Uhr
  An: Perry
  Cc: healeys at autox.team.net


  It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.   My curiosity was
  rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye. 
  That was 1/2" diameter also.  I recently rebuilt the front suspension on
  the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later
  Spridgets.  The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for
  mounting a sway bar.  The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".  It doesn't seem
  right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
  Mike MacLean

  On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
    Mike
    Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway
    bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were &frac12; inch and the rest 5/8
    inch.  Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the
    last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
    P
     
     
    Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
    Windows 10
     
    From: Michael MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
    Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM
    To: Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
    Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
     
    What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?  I just tried to put
    urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones
    held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too
    big.  What good is that?  I switched to a rubber set I have and they
    fit better, but still a little loose. 
    Mike MacLean
     
?
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul 23 14:57:49 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 13:57:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1563914294772.3657571.fc81696a28d217d7c0a579fb83b37a5073eb9b42@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <mailman.28.1563915474.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Josef,? ? ?Shorrock was cars bought in England.? Here in America we used Judson superchargers, both aftermarket items.? By the way I had a Judson on my Bugeye back when I ran it with the original 948.? It has a 1275 now.? As we say in the US, you can't beat cubic inches.Mike MSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: josef-eckert at t-online.de Date: 7/23/19  1:38 PM  (GMT-08:00) To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: AW: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar Mike,
next time you tell me your Bugeye had a Shorrock Superchharger.
Yes, maybe, but not fitted by rhe factory.
?
Josef Eckert
?
?
?
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: AW: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
Datum: 2019-07-23T20:46:30+0200
Von: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
?
?
?


?
Josef,
? ? ?Look at the bottom of the front frame rails on any Bugeye.? You will find pre-driiled and tapped holes for sway bar brackets.? The Bugeye sway bar was offered as an optional performance upgrade at BMC dealers.? You had to drill two holes in the lower a-arms to mount the sway bar links.? You are correct in the sense a Bugeye did not come with a sway bar at point of purchase, but the dealer sold many performance products offered by the manufacturer.? Terry Horler's book "Original Sprite & Midget" mentions the anti-sway bar offered by Healey Motor Company on page 31.? There is a picture of the bar there, but it's a little dark, but you can see the two bolt mounting bracket on the lower a-arms that needed holes drilled for them.
Mike MacLean
?

On Jul 23, 2019 11:18 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:



Sorry, I habe to correct you. Bugeyes never had a sway bar. Josef Eckert
Gesendet mit der Telekom Mail App
--- Original-Nachricht --- Von: Mike MacLean Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar Datum: 23.07.2019, 18:37 Uhr An: Perry Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 



It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.? ?My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.? That was 1/2" diameter also.? I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets.? The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar.? The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".? It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
Mike MacLean


On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote: 



Mike
Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch. ?Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
P
?
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?

From: Michael MacLeanSent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AMTo: HealeysSubject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar

?
What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.? What good is that?? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose.? 
Mike MacLean
?












?
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From rick at ewilkins.com  Tue Jul 23 15:26:29 2019
From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 14:26:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D5490B8C-9B42-43FA-8A4A-DA79369DE4CD@ewilkins.com>

I ran 195/65 and loved the ride and look.

http://ewilkins.com/wilko

> On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:53 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came with little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look great, I am concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are 5.5" rims, so they should fit...
> Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. the 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
> 
> 
> 1967 MGB  
> 
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com
> 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 15:32:40 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 14:32:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <D5490B8C-9B42-43FA-8A4A-DA79369DE4CD@ewilkins.com>
References: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
 <D5490B8C-9B42-43FA-8A4A-DA79369DE4CD@ewilkins.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_phioWzo+69gy8VZZ4AZhAQr7wLNqj11khmE4Uam6-Dw@mail.gmail.com>

My current look

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 2:29 PM Rick Wilkins <rick at ewilkins.com> wrote:

> I ran 195/65 and loved the ride and look.
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko
>
> On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:53 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they came with
> little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the tires look great, I am
> concerned about age related failure. I have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted
> to my oem wheels. Coker site says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are
> 5.5" rims, so they should fit...
> Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini lights. the
> 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
> Thanks
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
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>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 15:53:33 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 14:53:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1563905891883.3644059.b109f6da9bd62b203cd7c8a0b35c32e3bf61cdaa@spica.telekom.de>
References: <201907231348.x6NDmfml028205@flpd576.prodigy.net>
 <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
 <1563905891883.3644059.b109f6da9bd62b203cd7c8a0b35c32e3bf61cdaa@spica.telekom.de>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRiFmk+MECzO1Q+827FO0An22y5CJYWG8WMEKgv9OXTqQ@mail.gmail.com>

Josef,

Yes, you are correct, Bugeye's did not come from the factory with anti-sway
bars... HOWEVER, it was a common practice back in the 1950s to use a 1/2" -
BN1/2 sway-bar and then modify the Bugeye rear shock links to fit it to the
front end.  In fact it may have been a Factory Works racing modification,
but I cannot recall off the top of my head.

Bottom line, as I recall, this is an approved modification in Bugeye
Concours judging here in the USA and Canada.

I know of a time capsule racing Bugeye here in the USA, 10K original miles,
never restored, with most on the miles on the track that has one of these
anti-sway bar setups.

See attached photos.

Cheers,

Curt

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019 at 11:19 AM josef-eckert at t-online.de <
josef-eckert at t-online.de> wrote:

> Sorry, I habe to correct you. Bugeyes never had a sway bar.
> Josef Eckert
>
>
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From schottc at knology.net  Tue Jul 23 16:47:53 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 18:47:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
References: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Mike, 

The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have polyurethane bushings. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
To: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 

It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar. My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye. That was 1/2" diameter also. I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets. The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar. The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8". It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar. 
Mike MacLean 

On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote: 





Mike 

Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch. Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years. 

P 





Sent from Mail for Windows 10 




From: Michael MacLean 
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM 
To: Healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 




What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big. What good is that? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose. 

Mike MacLean 







_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
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From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 19:26:14 2019
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 11:26:14 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <20190723205820.CBF92A0DBD@autox.team.net>
References: <20190723205820.CBF92A0DBD@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <59426F0F-095E-4051-8F5B-9003F3C7896B@gmail.com>

For my money, this is as close to factory as it gets!


Best
Chris

> On 24 Jul 2019, at 6:57 am, rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Josef,
>      Shorrock was cars bought in England.  Here in America we used Judson superchargers, both aftermarket items.  By the way I had a Judson on my Bugeye back when I ran it with the original 948.  It has a 1275 now.  As we say in the US, you can't beat cubic inches.
> Mike M
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> From: josef-eckert at t-online.de
> Date: 7/23/19 1:38 PM (GMT-08:00)
> To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: AW: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
> 
> Mike,
> next time you tell me your Bugeye had a Shorrock Superchharger.
> Yes, maybe, but not fitted by rhe factory.
>  
> Josef Eckert
>  
>  
>  
> -----Original-Nachricht-----
> Betreff: Re: AW: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
> Datum: 2019-07-23T20:46:30+0200
> Von: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> An: "josef-eckert at t-online.de" <josef-eckert at t-online.de>
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Josef,
>      Look at the bottom of the front frame rails on any Bugeye.  You will find pre-driiled and tapped holes for sway bar brackets.  The Bugeye sway bar was offered as an optional performance upgrade at BMC dealers.  You had to drill two holes in the lower a-arms to mount the sway bar links.  You are correct in the sense a Bugeye did not come with a sway bar at point of purchase, but the dealer sold many performance products offered by the manufacturer.  Terry Horler's book "Original Sprite & Midget" mentions the anti-sway bar offered by Healey Motor Company on page 31.  There is a picture of the bar there, but it's a little dark, but you can see the two bolt mounting bracket on the lower a-arms that needed holes drilled for them.
> Mike MacLean
>  
> 
> On Jul 23, 2019 11:18 AM, josef-eckert at t-online.de wrote:
> Sorry, I habe to correct you. Bugeyes never had a sway bar. 
> Josef Eckert
> 
> 
> 
> Gesendet mit der Telekom Mail App
> 
> 
> --- Original-Nachricht --- 
> Von: Mike MacLean 
> Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 
> Datum: 23.07.2019, 18:37 Uhr 
> An: Perry 
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
> 
> 
> It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.   My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.  That was 1/2" diameter also.  I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets.  The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar.  The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".  It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar. 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote: 
> Mike
> Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch.  Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
> P
>  
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Michael MacLean
> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>  
> What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?  I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.  What good is that?  I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose. 
> Mike MacLean
>  
> ?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com
> 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul 23 20:28:39 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 22:28:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
 <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL4M-zGgx0vb+_4b28kxXuoL_i3hmZSi5DSjG_6SCmLCQ@mail.gmail.com>

Front anti roll bars are definitely one of the things in life where bigger
is not necessarily better.
M

On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 6:48 PM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net> wrote:

> Mike,
>
> The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" one. AH
> Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have polyurethane bushings.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *To: *"Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.   My curiosity was
> rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.  That
> was 1/2" diameter also.  I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the
> Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later
> Spridgets.  The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for
> mounting a sway bar.  The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".  It doesn't seem
> right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
> Mike
>
> Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars
> upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch.  Suspect I
> put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had
> that car for 54 years.
>
> P
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM
> *To: *Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
>
>
> What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?  I just tried to put urethane
> bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a
> metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.  What good is
> that?  I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a
> little loose.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul 23 22:23:30 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2019 21:23:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Removal
Message-ID: <9bf2361a-0c6b-d7b4-a2cb-7ee164cfbb6c@comcast.net>

I'm trying to manufacture the ambition to install my DWM steering box in 
my BJ8.? Anybody done this?? Should the grill come out from underneath, 
or out a wheel well?? Any tips, tricks, etc.?

TIA,

Bob


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 24 02:04:09 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 10:04:09 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_phioWzo+69gy8VZZ4AZhAQr7wLNqj11khmE4Uam6-Dw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
 <D5490B8C-9B42-43FA-8A4A-DA79369DE4CD@ewilkins.com>
 <CABXhz8_phioWzo+69gy8VZZ4AZhAQr7wLNqj11khmE4Uam6-Dw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1af1d7b7-f5d4-3b21-2a93-c09362b69ecb@chello.nl>

Looks the part(s). Panasport/VTO? Should handle a bit sharper than with 
wire wheels.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-7-2019 om 23:32 schreef i erbs:
> My current look
>
> On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 2:29 PM Rick Wilkins <rick at ewilkins.com 
> <mailto:rick at ewilkins.com>> wrote:
>
>     I ran 195/65 and loved the ride and look.
>
>     http://ewilkins.com/wilko
>
>>     On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:53 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they
>>     came with little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the
>>     tires look great, I am concerned about age related failure. I
>>     have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted to my oem wheels. Coker site
>>     says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are 5.5" rims, so they
>>     should fit...
>>     Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini
>>     lights. the 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
>>     Thanks
>>     Ira Erbs
>>     Portland,OR
>>     ? ? _______ ? ?_______
>>     ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>     (_________________________)
>>     ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>>     1967 MGB MG
>>
>>     A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>>     Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net <http://team.net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 24 02:06:29 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 10:06:29 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] wheel width
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_phioWzo+69gy8VZZ4AZhAQr7wLNqj11khmE4Uam6-Dw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Vv8q0D-eKv1jeUfScfqDzwaaui3-B2NR2POQTvK4N9A@mail.gmail.com>
 <D5490B8C-9B42-43FA-8A4A-DA79369DE4CD@ewilkins.com>
 <CABXhz8_phioWzo+69gy8VZZ4AZhAQr7wLNqj11khmE4Uam6-Dw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e5471572-e850-12e6-051b-991e02cb8b1b@chello.nl>

Or original Minilites?

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-7-2019 om 23:32 schreef i erbs:
> My current look
>
> On Tue, Jul 23, 2019, 2:29 PM Rick Wilkins <rick at ewilkins.com 
> <mailto:rick at ewilkins.com>> wrote:
>
>     I ran 195/65 and loved the ride and look.
>
>     http://ewilkins.com/wilko
>
>>     On Jul 22, 2019, at 11:53 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>     <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     Howdy all, I bought some used minilites for my 100-6 and they
>>     came with little used, but older tires. 205/65/15. While the
>>     tires look great, I am concerned about age related failure. I
>>     have Coker Classic 185/15s mounted to my oem wheels. Coker site
>>     says use on 5-6.5" rims and the minilites are 5.5" rims, so they
>>     should fit...
>>     Can I swap tires? If not, what size tires will fit on the mini
>>     lights. the 205s are pretty wide and I would prefer a thinner tire.
>>     Thanks
>>     Ira Erbs
>>     Portland,OR
>>     ? ? _______ ? ?_______
>>     ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>     (_________________________)
>>     ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>>     1967 MGB MG
>>
>>     A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>>     Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net <http://team.net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com
>>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 24 05:48:36 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 07:48:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Removal
In-Reply-To: <9bf2361a-0c6b-d7b4-a2cb-7ee164cfbb6c@comcast.net>
References: <9bf2361a-0c6b-d7b4-a2cb-7ee164cfbb6c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <010601d54215$bc0a8490$341f8db0$@rr.com>

I take it out of the driver's side wheelwell, after removing the splash shields.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  



-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2019 12:24 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Removal

I'm trying to manufacture the ambition to install my DWM steering box in 
my BJ8.  Anybody done this?  Should the grill come out from underneath, 
or out a wheel well?  Any tips, tricks, etc.?

TIA,

Bob

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com



From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Jul 24 06:06:56 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 13:06:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Removal
In-Reply-To: <9bf2361a-0c6b-d7b4-a2cb-7ee164cfbb6c@comcast.net>
References: <9bf2361a-0c6b-d7b4-a2cb-7ee164cfbb6c@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001d54218$4b0a1d20$e11e5760$@alexarevel.plus.com>

When faced with same task, I asked and got a lot of useful replies from which I made a synopsis and some notes, attached.
(So, it's nearly all your own work!)
Managed to do it without disaster. A wretched job though....
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 24 July 2019 05:24
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Grill Removal

I'm trying to manufacture the ambition to install my DWM steering box in my BJ8.  Anybody done this?  Should the grill come out from underneath, or out a wheel well?  Any tips, tricks, etc.?

TIA,

Bob

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul 24 06:07:47 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 08:07:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
 <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.30.1563970079.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Charlie
My experience with a larger roll bar is that the car tends to get crazy over bumps, pavement expansion joints and the like. I have a 7/8 bar on the shelf (memento of things gone awry previously) and I could not use it even on my V8 car. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Charles Schott
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:47 PM
To: Mike MacLean
Cc: Perry; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar

Mike,

The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have polyurethane bushings.

Regards,

Charlie Schott


From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar

It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.? ?My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.? That was 1/2" diameter also.? I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets.? The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar.? The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".? It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
Mike MacLean

On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

Mike
Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch. ?Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
P
?
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Michael MacLean
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
?
What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.? What good is that?? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose.? 
Mike MacLean
?


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jul 24 06:09:15 2019
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 06:09:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Sending messages
Message-ID: <ad5a73c2-1c3b-9cbf-7f53-55d0669f5a41@bradakis.com>

To send a message to healeys at autox.team.net you send the message to 
healeys at autox.team.net.

Pay attention to what your emai program is doing.

mjb.



From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 24 06:58:58 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 14:58:58 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Sending messages
In-Reply-To: <ad5a73c2-1c3b-9cbf-7f53-55d0669f5a41@bradakis.com>
References: <ad5a73c2-1c3b-9cbf-7f53-55d0669f5a41@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <215cc787-c1c2-c768-f343-0921e4492e38@chello.nl>

?????

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 24-7-2019 om 14:09 schreef Mark J Bradakis via Healeys:
> To send a message to healeys at autox.team.net you send the message to 
> healeys at autox.team.net.
>
> Pay attention to what your emai program is doing.
>
> mjb.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 24 07:06:08 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 15:06:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <20190724120852.6B0B6A1654@autox.team.net>
References: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
 <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <20190724120852.6B0B6A1654@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5367cdff-9768-3094-3acb-6f239eeed220@chello.nl>

A stiffer anti-roll bar (or springs) on the front only will also 
introduce more understeer and may be unbalance in the car?s road behaviour.

If you change one thing it will invariably lead to the need of changing 
other things to get it right.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 24-7-2019 om 14:07 schreef Perry via Healeys:
>
> Charlie
>
> My experience with a larger roll bar is that the car tends to get 
> crazy over bumps, pavement expansion joints and the like. I have a 7/8 
> bar on the shelf (memento of things gone awry previously) and I could 
> not use it even on my V8 car.
>
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Charles Schott <mailto:schottc at knology.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:47 PM
> *To: *Mike MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> Mike,
>
> The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" 
> one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have 
> polyurethane bushings.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> *From: *"Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *To: *"Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.? ?My curiosity was 
> rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.? 
> That was 1/2" diameter also.? I recently rebuilt the front suspension 
> on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for 
> later Spridgets.? The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes 
> for mounting a sway bar.? The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".? It 
> doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
>     Mike
>
>     Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other
>     sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest
>     5/8 inch. ?Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago
>     during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
>
>     P
>
>     Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
>     for Windows 10
>
>     *From: *Michael MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>     *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM
>     *To: *Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject: *[Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
>     What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?? I just tried to put
>     urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center
>     ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was
>     way too big.? What good is that?? I switched to a rubber set I
>     have and they fit better, but still a little loose.
>
>     Mike MacLean
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Jul 24 07:14:16 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 09:14:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <42.D7.10913.91A483D5@mx02.wow.cmh.synacor.com>
References: <b962d79c-5cb3-437c-ad0b-f1e5a97a2fde@email.android.com>
 <1843279987.2392451.1563922073485.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
 <42.D7.10913.91A483D5@mx02.wow.cmh.synacor.com>
Message-ID: <1791982048.3060887.1563974056001.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Perry, 

Thanks for the info. If I don't like it I can always go to a smaller size. Does anyone know what size is optimal for a road car? 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com> 
To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2019 7:07:47 AM 
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 



Charlie 

My experience with a larger roll bar is that the car tends to get crazy over bumps, pavement expansion joints and the like. I have a 7/8 bar on the shelf (memento of things gone awry previously) and I could not use it even on my V8 car. 

Perry 



Sent from Mail for Windows 10 




From: Charles Schott 
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:47 PM 
To: Mike MacLean 
Cc: Perry ; healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 




Mike, 





The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have polyurethane bushings. 





Regards, 





Charlie Schott 








From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
To: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 





It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar. My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye. That was 1/2" diameter also. I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets. The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar. The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8". It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar. 


Mike MacLean 





On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote: 








Mike 

Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch. Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years. 

P 





Sent from Mail for Windows 10 




From: Michael MacLean 
Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AM 
To: Healeys 
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 




What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big. What good is that? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose. 

Mike MacLean 











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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 





Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 





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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul 24 10:56:17 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 09:56:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <1791982048.3060887.1563974056001.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.31.1563987379.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Gee, I'm glad I brought this up.? I'm going to stick with the 1/2" bar as my car is destined for the road, not the track.? It's? a continuation of a philosophy that my late restorer friend was always on about.? My LeMans conversion of my BN2 is more sizzle than steak.? Sure I am installing all the visual cues like H6 carbs with LeMans intake and a louvered bonnet with leather strap, but that's about it.? I am even using used valve springs because I was told it would tick over at idle from first startup.? Besides, never being on the track, high rpm will not be a factor.? Not even close to valve float.? Yes, I am converting to disc brakes in the front, but that's a no brainer for safe driving street or track.? When I asked my friend about going with a Toyota transmission conversion, he said, "don't you want the Austin Healey experience"?? So, pretty much a stock BN2.? I think it will perform on the street just great.? Wasn't it state of the art back in 53?? Good enough for a Sunday drive now and then.Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> Date: 7/24/19  6:14 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar Perry,Thanks for the info. If I don't like it I can always go to a smaller size. Does anyone know what size is optimal for a road car?Regards,CharlieFrom: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>Cc: healeys at autox.team.netSent: Wednesday, July 24, 2019 7:07:47 AMSubject: RE: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar<!--

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-->CharlieMy experience with a larger roll bar is that the car tends to get crazy over bumps, pavement expansion joints and the like. I have a 7/8 bar on the shelf (memento of things gone awry previously) and I could not use it even on my V8 car. Perry?Sent from Mail for Windows 10?From: Charles SchottSent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:47 PMTo: Mike MacLeanCc: Perry; healeys at autox.team.netSubject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar?Mike,?The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have polyurethane bushings.?Regards,?Charlie Schott?From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>To: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>Cc: healeys at autox.team.netSent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PMSubject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar?It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.? ?My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.? That was 1/2" diameter also.? I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets.? The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar.? The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".? It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.Mike MacLean?On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:MikeSorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch. ?Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.P??Sent from Mail for Windows 10?From: Michael MacLeanSent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:44 AMTo: HealeysSubject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar?What is the diameter of a 100 anti-sway bar?? I just tried to put urethane bushings on the one I have with my BN2 (the two center ones held on with a metal strap) and the hole in the bushing was way too big.? What good is that?? I switched to a rubber set I have and they fit better, but still a little loose.? Mike MacLean??_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation ?$12.75?Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive?Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys?Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net???
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From 3000mk3 at bighealey.org  Wed Jul 24 16:08:54 2019
From: 3000mk3 at bighealey.org (3000mk3 at bighealey.org)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 22:08:54 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] 1965 BJ8 for sale
Message-ID: <8493f7cf556a40ff9d753c89e0d427a2@bighealey.org>

Well, the time has come for me to try to sell one of my BJ8s.
Its a 1965 and has been sitting in my garage for 30+ years (wow time flies).
 
I started a roundup restoration that quickly stalled, as 30K goes quickly. 
The car is a rolling cassie and it was running/driving when parked.
I am currently working on refurbishing the carbs to get it running again, so maybe this weekend (depends on my grandkids).

Healey Werks (Craig) did the frame, outriggers, sills, floor restoration, etc. (they had to redo the first restoration).  

All the serial numbers match the certificate (except the engine that I also have, we can negotiate)  
I have I believe 95% of the parts (if not more).

I am looking for $25K.
If you are interesting great, if not I retire soon (May 2020) and I will need a project.
It was my dream car, well it still it, circumstances dictate that I try to do something.

 
Tom Mitchell
Ann Arbor, Mi
BJ8


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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Wed Jul 24 17:46:05 2019
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 11:46:05 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <59426F0F-095E-4051-8F5B-9003F3C7896B@gmail.com>
References: <20190723205820.CBF92A0DBD@autox.team.net>
 <59426F0F-095E-4051-8F5B-9003F3C7896B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6E0C2565626C4B2E8E045BDE49E03D75@MarkPC>

Chris, Mike and Josef,
 
Here is an advert for Judson.
 
Mark
 


  _____  

From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, 24 July 2019 1:26 p.m.
To: rrengineer.mike
Cc: josef-eckert at t-online.de; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar


For my money, this is as close to factory as it gets!

image1.JPG

Best
Chris

On 24 Jul 2019, at 6:57 am, rrengineer.mike <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:



Josef,
     Shorrock was cars bought in England.  Here in America we used Judson
superchargers, both aftermarket items.  By the way I had a Judson on my
Bugeye back when I ran it with the original 948.  It has a 1275 now.  As we
say in the US, you can't beat cubic inches.
Mike M


 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 24 17:57:24 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 16:57:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <20190724165639.52A70A0EDE@autox.team.net>
References: <20190724165639.52A70A0EDE@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <f00f89e6-d6cc-5a3c-4c0a-47e09aece437@comcast.net>

In 1953, Healeys were 'state of the art' for 1943.

FWIW, I put a larger front anti-sway bar on my BJ8 and all I noticed was 
that it stayed flatter in turns, but I don't track it so I probably 
wouldn't notice a slight increase in understeer.

Bob


On 7/24/2019 9:56 AM, rrengineer.mike wrote:
> Gee, I'm glad I brought this up.? I'm going to stick with the 1/2" bar 
> as my car is destined for the road, not the track.? It's? a 
> continuation of a philosophy that my late restorer friend was always 
> on about.? My LeMans conversion of my BN2 is more sizzle than steak.? 
> Sure I am installing all the visual cues like H6 carbs with LeMans 
> intake and a louvered bonnet with leather strap, but that's about it.? 
> I am even using used valve springs because I was told it would tick 
> over at idle from first startup.? Besides, never being on the track, 
> high rpm will not be a factor.? Not even close to valve float.? Yes, I 
> am converting to disc brakes in the front, but that's a no brainer for 
> safe driving street or track.? When I asked my friend about going with 
> a Toyota transmission conversion, he said, "don't you want the Austin 
> Healey experience"?? So, pretty much a stock BN2.? I think it will 
> perform on the street just great.? Wasn't it state of the art back in 
> 53?? Good enough for a Sunday drive now and then.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net>
> Date: 7/24/19 6:14 AM (GMT-08:00)
> To: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> Perry,
>
> Thanks for the info. If I don't like it I can always go to a smaller 
> size. Does anyone know what size is optimal for a road car?
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *To: *"Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 24, 2019 7:07:47 AM
> *Subject: *RE: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> Charlie
>
> My experience with a larger roll bar is that the car tends to get 
> crazy over bumps, pavement expansion joints and the like. I have a 7/8 
> bar on the shelf (memento of things gone awry previously) and I could 
> not use it even on my V8 car.
>
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Charles Schott <mailto:schottc at knology.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:47 PM
> *To: *Mike MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> Mike,
>
> The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" 
> one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have 
> polyurethane bushings.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> *From: *"Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *To: *"Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>
> It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar. ?My curiosity was 
> rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.? 
> That was 1/2" diameter also.? I recently rebuilt the front suspension 
> on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for 
> later Spridgets.? The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes 
> for mounting a sway bar.? The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".? It 
> doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
>
>     Mike
>
>     Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other
>     sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest
>     5/8 inch. ?Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago
>     during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
>
>     P
>
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From rick at ewilkins.com  Wed Jul 24 18:05:52 2019
From: rick at ewilkins.com (Rick Wilkins)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 17:05:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <f00f89e6-d6cc-5a3c-4c0a-47e09aece437@comcast.net>
References: <20190724165639.52A70A0EDE@autox.team.net>
 <f00f89e6-d6cc-5a3c-4c0a-47e09aece437@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <78D37D05-39FE-4DA3-AC6B-918197D9EB37@ewilkins.com>

I used a stiffer anti-roll bar and recommend it, even for road use. Makes a  huge difference in body roll and improves the feel of the car in turns. Great for ?spirited driving? how the front sort of digs into turns. Makes the car a tad more ?chuckable?. Very fun, cheap. reversible mod.

Wilko

http://ewilkins.com/wilko


> On Jul 24, 2019, at 4:57 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> In 1953, Healeys were 'state of the art' for 1943.
> 
> FWIW, I put a larger front anti-sway bar on my BJ8 and all I noticed was that it stayed flatter in turns, but I don't track it so I probably wouldn't notice a slight increase in understeer.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/24/2019 9:56 AM, rrengineer.mike wrote:
>> Gee, I'm glad I brought this up.  I'm going to stick with the 1/2" bar as my car is destined for the road, not the track.  It's  a continuation of a philosophy that my late restorer friend was always on about.  My LeMans conversion of my BN2 is more sizzle than steak.  Sure I am installing all the visual cues like H6 carbs with LeMans intake and a louvered bonnet with leather strap, but that's about it.  I am even using used valve springs because I was told it would tick over at idle from first startup.  Besides, never being on the track, high rpm will not be a factor.  Not even close to valve float.  Yes, I am converting to disc brakes in the front, but that's a no brainer for safe driving street or track.  When I asked my friend about going with a Toyota transmission conversion, he said, "don't you want the Austin Healey experience"?  So, pretty much a stock BN2.  I think it will perform on the street just great.  Wasn't it state of the art back in 53?  Good enough for a Sunday drive now and then.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
>> 
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Charles Schott <schottc at knology.net> <mailto:schottc at knology.net>
>> Date: 7/24/19 6:14 AM (GMT-08:00) 
>> To: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar 
>> 
>> Perry,
>> 
>> Thanks for the info. If I don't like it I can always go to a smaller size. Does anyone know what size is optimal for a road car?
>> 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> Charlie
>> 
>> From: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com> <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
>> To: "Charles Schott" <schottc at knology.net> <mailto:schottc at knology.net>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2019 7:07:47 AM
>> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>> 
>> Charlie
>> My experience with a larger roll bar is that the car tends to get crazy over bumps, pavement expansion joints and the like. I have a 7/8 bar on the shelf (memento of things gone awry previously) and I could not use it even on my V8 car. 
>> Perry
>>  
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>>  
>> From: Charles Schott <mailto:schottc at knology.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:47 PM
>> To: Mike MacLean <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> Cc: Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>>  
>> Mike,
>>  
>> The original bar on my 100 was also 1/2" but I'm installing a 7/8" one. AH Spares has them at 5/8", 3/4" and 7/8". And they have polyurethane bushings.
>>  
>> Regards,
>>  
>> Charlie Schott
>>  
>> 
>> From: "Mike MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> To: "Perry" <healeyguy at aol.com> <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2019 12:37:55 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
>>  
>> It seems my anti-sway bar is the original 1/2" bar.   My curiosity was rooted in the fact I used to own an original sway bar for my Bugeye.  That was 1/2" diameter also.  I recently rebuilt the front suspension on the Bugeye which included new lower a-arms of the later type for later Spridgets.  The new lower a-arms came with the reinforced holes for mounting a sway bar.  The new bar on the Bugeye is 5/8".  It doesn't seem right the smaller car has a bigger sway bar.
>> Mike MacLean
>>  
>> On Jul 23, 2019 6:48 AM, Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Sorry, my BN2 measures 5/8 inch but I also measured the 10 other sway bars upstairs in the garage and 4 were ? inch and the rest 5/8 inch.  Suspect I put a 6 cylinder bar on it 17 years ago during the last resto. Have had that car for 54 years.
>> 
>> P
>> 
>>  
>>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com>
> 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 24 18:38:16 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2019 17:38:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Anti-Sway Bar
In-Reply-To: <78D37D05-39FE-4DA3-AC6B-918197D9EB37@ewilkins.com>
References: <20190724165639.52A70A0EDE@autox.team.net>
 <f00f89e6-d6cc-5a3c-4c0a-47e09aece437@comcast.net>
 <78D37D05-39FE-4DA3-AC6B-918197D9EB37@ewilkins.com>
Message-ID: <6f31ee1f-0de2-2565-b255-675eedb1a3c1@comcast.net>

I also used poly bushes all around.? I got the swaybar kit from Addco, 
including uprated links which you'll need if you use the stiffer bushes.


On 7/24/2019 5:05 PM, Rick Wilkins wrote:
> I used a stiffer anti-roll bar and recommend it, even for road use. 
> Makes a ?huge difference in body roll and improves the feel of the car 
> in turns. Great for ?spirited driving? how the front sort of digs into 
> turns. Makes the car a tad more ?chuckable?. Very fun, cheap. 
> reversible mod.
>
> Wilko
>
> http://ewilkins.com/wilko
>
>
>> On Jul 24, 2019, at 4:57 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
>> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>> In 1953, Healeys were 'state of the art' for 1943.
>>
>> FWIW, I put a larger front anti-sway bar on my BJ8 and all I noticed 
>> was that it stayed flatter in turns, but I don't track it so I 
>> probably wouldn't notice a slight increase in understeer.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 7/24/2019 9:56 AM, rrengineer.mike wrote:
>>> Gee, I'm glad I brought this up. I'm going to stick with the 1/2" 
>>> bar as my car is destined for the road, not the track.? It's? a 
>>> continuation of a philosophy that my late restorer friend was always 
>>> on about.? My LeMans conversion of my BN2 is more sizzle than 
>>> steak.? Sure I am installing all the visual cues like H6 carbs with 
>>> LeMans intake and a louvered bonnet with leather strap, but that's 
>>> about it.? I am even using used valve springs because I was told it 
>>> would tick over at idle from first startup. Besides, never being on 
>>> the track, high rpm will not be a factor.? Not even close to valve 
>>> float.? Yes, I am converting to disc brakes in the front, but that's 
>>> a no brainer for safe driving street or track.? When I asked my 
>>> friend about going with a Toyota transmission conversion, he said, 
>>> "don't you want the Austin Healey experience"?? So, pretty much a 
>>> stock BN2.? I think it will perform on the street just great.? 
>>> Wasn't it state of the art back in 53?? Good enough for a Sunday 
>>> drive now and then.
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>>
>>>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 12:36:30 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 14:36:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>

During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder
than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the
brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the
front brakes.

I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From warthodson at aol.com  Thu Jul 25 12:54:13 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 18:54:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <860522026.6798451.1564080853826@mail.yahoo.com>

I would suggest checking the initial brake pedal travel for the correct amount of free play. Sorry, I do not recall the specifications on this.?Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 25, 2019 1:37 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue

During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the front brakes.
I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Jul 25 13:20:28 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 21:20:28 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8125ee8e-6164-9ece-7ac7-7152b909205d@chello.nl>

May be a recent rebuild of the BMC or perhaps a new one?

Most likely the rod of the BMC needs adjusting.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 25-7-2019 om 20:36 schreef Michael Oritt:
> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and 
> harder than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as 
> though the brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat 
> coming from the front brakes.
>
> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any 
> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 13:26:48 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 15:26:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>

Silicone fluid?

M

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder
> than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the
> brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the
> front brakes.
>
> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 14:25:05 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 16:25:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>

Nope--Dot 3/4.

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Silicone fluid?
>
> M
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder
>> than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the
>> brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the
>> front brakes.
>>
>> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
>> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 14:33:08 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 16:33:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>

NEWSFLASH:

After letting the car sit for a few hours I just checked the pedal and it
has gone back to normal with an inch or two of motion, same as it was
before i started out this morning's drive.

At the same time i adjusted the pushrod length a few months back I also
removed some exhaust heat-shielding and have not yet gotten around to
replacing it.  Given the high ambient temperatures I wonder if heat is
getting to the MC, causing the brakes to somehow stay partially or fully
activated?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:29 PM Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com> wrote:

> Swollen (inside) brake hose not releasing fluid???
>
> Randy
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 25, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Nope--Dot 3/4.
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Silicone fluid?
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder
>>> than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the
>>> brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the
>>> front brakes.
>>>
>>> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
>>> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 15:09:29 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 17:09:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>

I'm going for a short ride in a little while to a destination nearby and I
will carefully observe if the pedal gets high and hard and if the brakes
drag, etc.

If there is a collapsed line the condition should appear relatively quickly
don't you think?  OTOH if it does not appear before the car heats up that
might be significant.

I am sometimes a sucker for easy solutions....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:33 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> NEWSFLASH:
>
> After letting the car sit for a few hours I just checked the pedal and it
> has gone back to normal with an inch or two of motion, same as it was
> before i started out this morning's drive.
>
> At the same time i adjusted the pushrod length a few months back I also
> removed some exhaust heat-shielding and have not yet gotten around to
> replacing it.  Given the high ambient temperatures I wonder if heat is
> getting to the MC, causing the brakes to somehow stay partially or fully
> activated?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:29 PM Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com> wrote:
>
>> Swollen (inside) brake hose not releasing fluid???
>>
>> Randy
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 25, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Nope--Dot 3/4.
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Silicone fluid?
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and
>>>> harder than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though
>>>> the brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from
>>>> the front brakes.
>>>>
>>>> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
>>>> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>>>>
>>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
>>
>>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 15:22:21 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 11:22:21 -1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+bmyat-Locn5gBT8R3=ROi3QNYxSihHUZoDto5B5EB1SQ@mail.gmail.com>

Are both front brakes dragging (when they drag) or just one?  Can you
release the dragging by popping open a bleeder screw for a moment?
-Roland

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 11:09 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I'm going for a short ride in a little while to a destination nearby and I
> will carefully observe if the pedal gets high and hard and if the brakes
> drag, etc.
>
> If there is a collapsed line the condition should appear relatively
> quickly don't you think?  OTOH if it does not appear before the car heats
> up that might be significant.
>
> I am sometimes a sucker for easy solutions....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:33 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> NEWSFLASH:
>>
>> After letting the car sit for a few hours I just checked the pedal and it
>> has gone back to normal with an inch or two of motion, same as it was
>> before i started out this morning's drive.
>>
>> At the same time i adjusted the pushrod length a few months back I also
>> removed some exhaust heat-shielding and have not yet gotten around to
>> replacing it.  Given the high ambient temperatures I wonder if heat is
>> getting to the MC, causing the brakes to somehow stay partially or fully
>> activated?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:29 PM Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Swollen (inside) brake hose not releasing fluid???
>>>
>>> Randy
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Jul 25, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Nope--Dot 3/4.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Silicone fluid?
>>>>
>>>> M
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and
>>>>> harder than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though
>>>>> the brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from
>>>>> the front brakes.
>>>>>
>>>>> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
>>>>> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>>>>>
>>>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>>
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>>
>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Jul 25 15:33:48 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 17:33:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1564090435.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

High pedal, meaning that the brake pedal does not travel downward when applying foot pressure, is indicative of wheel cylinders or caliper pistons not moving in their bore.  The fluid in the master cylinder has less space to travel to and therefore remains high. Since there is more heat coming off the front brakes a suspect the problem is in that (front brakes) area. I suppose if there was a blockage in the master it could act the same way but don?t remember that ever happen to me previously. 
But I?ve been wrong before?..
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2019 5:10 PM
To: Randall Hicks; Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake issue

I'm going for a short ride in a little while to a destination nearby and I will carefully observe if the pedal gets high and hard and if the brakes drag, etc.

If there is a collapsed line the condition should appear relatively quickly don't you think?? OTOH if it does not appear before the car heats up that might be significant.?
?
I am sometimes a sucker for easy solutions....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:33 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
NEWSFLASH:

After letting the car sit for a few hours I just checked the pedal and it has gone back to normal with an inch or two of motion, same as it was before i started out this morning's drive.

At the same time i adjusted the pushrod length a few months back I also removed some exhaust heat-shielding and have not yet gotten around to replacing it.? Given the high ambient temperatures I wonder if heat is getting to the MC, causing the brakes to somehow stay partially or fully activated?? ?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:29 PM Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com> wrote:
Swollen (inside) brake hose not releasing fluid???

Randy

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 25, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
Nope--Dot 3/4.

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
Silicone fluid?

M

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the front brakes.

I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.

Best--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 25 19:51:16 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2019 21:51:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <5d3a2041.1c69fb81.93f0a.7d9eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <5d3a2041.1c69fb81.93f0a.7d9eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6dx_qD4s=pUqgOxxjeK1qioPnn7MMigmiOZOOdxY_VUw@mail.gmail.com>

During this evening's rides to and from a nearby destination the brakes
felt fine and pedal travel was normal--naturally!
I hope to get under the car tomorrow.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 5:33 PM Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> High pedal, meaning that the brake pedal does not travel downward when
> applying foot pressure, is indicative of wheel cylinders or caliper pistons
> not moving in their bore.  The fluid in the master cylinder has less space
> to travel to and therefore remains high. Since there is more heat coming
> off the front brakes a suspect the problem is in that (front brakes) area.
> I suppose if there was a blockage in the master it could act the same way
> but don?t remember that ever happen to me previously.
>
> But I?ve been wrong before?..
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Thursday, July 25, 2019 5:10 PM
> *To: *Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com>; Austin Healey
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Brake issue
>
>
>
> I'm going for a short ride in a little while to a destination nearby and I
> will carefully observe if the pedal gets high and hard and if the brakes
> drag, etc.
>
>
> If there is a collapsed line the condition should appear relatively
> quickly don't you think?  OTOH if it does not appear before the car heats
> up that might be significant.
>
>
>
> I am sometimes a sucker for easy solutions....
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:33 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> NEWSFLASH:
>
> After letting the car sit for a few hours I just checked the pedal and it
> has gone back to normal with an inch or two of motion, same as it was
> before i started out this morning's drive.
>
> At the same time i adjusted the pushrod length a few months back I also
> removed some exhaust heat-shielding and have not yet gotten around to
> replacing it.  Given the high ambient temperatures I wonder if heat is
> getting to the MC, causing the brakes to somehow stay partially or fully
> activated?
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:29 PM Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com> wrote:
>
> Swollen (inside) brake hose not releasing fluid???
>
>
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Jul 25, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Nope--Dot 3/4.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Silicone fluid?
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder
> than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the
> brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the
> front brakes.
>
>
>
> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
>
>
>
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From YNOTINK at msn.com  Thu Jul 25 22:22:33 2019
From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 04:22:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?

Thanks.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Fri Jul 26 07:39:23 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 09:39:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6dx_qD4s=pUqgOxxjeK1qioPnn7MMigmiOZOOdxY_VUw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4FVOU2CA2hkZoXJJGz_7UjWVA-CMx2yYFDoTddM0gBUg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LL6+evabA=8vTG2sb7p=P9MVgKzUOaejPXjYDq=HMPxfw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B71ZdS-CAExiZeeNZcjRQwLcbPyMNmQ8QQoK+kKkN8ZXw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3D33B2B2-3BF2-4D9F-BEFE-D8DB5F92FDB8@me.com>
 <CAPTa0B7jYtb-YHY3GVLC3DOjMw0zs4XvCCOL9fZc-Jm42asWKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Zr1sXvKWe9zwod_yPm=8M1jT_VNDX8xxskfw8AjhkKA@mail.gmail.com>
 <5d3a2041.1c69fb81.93f0a.7d9eSMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com>
 <CAPTa0B6dx_qD4s=pUqgOxxjeK1qioPnn7MMigmiOZOOdxY_VUw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5=aBj5hF38q++EsFEqB+nQppng6c5mbzFDR1T93isaEg@mail.gmail.com>

This morning I got under the car and shortened the brake actuating rod's
length by spinning the nut two full turns.  Though this probably does not
amount to much more than 1/16" I think that is all it will take, assuming
the issue was that the fluid return hole was being partially or fully
blocked by the seal/piston when things heated up and tolerances tightened
down.  We'll see--unfortunately I will not be able to take the car for an
extended drive until tomorrow ore Sunday.

Thanks to all for their input.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 9:51 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> During this evening's rides to and from a nearby destination the brakes
> felt fine and pedal travel was normal--naturally!
> I hope to get under the car tomorrow.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 5:33 PM Perry <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> High pedal, meaning that the brake pedal does not travel downward when
>> applying foot pressure, is indicative of wheel cylinders or caliper pistons
>> not moving in their bore.  The fluid in the master cylinder has less space
>> to travel to and therefore remains high. Since there is more heat coming
>> off the front brakes a suspect the problem is in that (front brakes) area.
>> I suppose if there was a blockage in the master it could act the same way
>> but don?t remember that ever happen to me previously.
>>
>> But I?ve been wrong before?..
>>
>> Perry
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>>
>> *From: *Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> *Sent: *Thursday, July 25, 2019 5:10 PM
>> *To: *Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com>; Austin Healey
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Brake issue
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm going for a short ride in a little while to a destination nearby and
>> I will carefully observe if the pedal gets high and hard and if the brakes
>> drag, etc.
>>
>>
>> If there is a collapsed line the condition should appear relatively
>> quickly don't you think?  OTOH if it does not appear before the car heats
>> up that might be significant.
>>
>>
>>
>> I am sometimes a sucker for easy solutions....
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:33 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> NEWSFLASH:
>>
>> After letting the car sit for a few hours I just checked the pedal and it
>> has gone back to normal with an inch or two of motion, same as it was
>> before i started out this morning's drive.
>>
>> At the same time i adjusted the pushrod length a few months back I also
>> removed some exhaust heat-shielding and have not yet gotten around to
>> replacing it.  Given the high ambient temperatures I wonder if heat is
>> getting to the MC, causing the brakes to somehow stay partially or fully
>> activated?
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 4:29 PM Randall Hicks <healey100m at me.com> wrote:
>>
>> Swollen (inside) brake hose not releasing fluid???
>>
>>
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Jul 25, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Nope--Dot 3/4.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019 at 3:27 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Silicone fluid?
>>
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 25, 2019, 2:36 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> During a drive today I noticed that the brake pedal is higher and harder
>> than normal and as I come to a stop it definitely feels as though the
>> brakes are dragging, plus there seemed to be a lot of heat coming from the
>> front brakes.
>>
>>
>>
>> I suspect a problem with the master cylinder but would appreciate any
>> suggestions as to what the issue and fix might be.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com
>>
>>
>>
>
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From george at kclsystems.com  Fri Jul 26 08:36:51 2019
From: george at kclsystems.com (George Couch)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 10:36:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] clutch hydraulics question
In-Reply-To: <BA0F0031-C510-44A9-BEF4-20106170CBDC@wadsworthoneal.com>
References: <c08b6abe-f5ba-2f55-4061-5cc9615adf75@earthlink.net>
 <CABXhz8-6eUnXAsaSHLnp3=7CLYQKW44Y453qg4y5uLcA52Rcww@mail.gmail.com>
 <BA0F0031-C510-44A9-BEF4-20106170CBDC@wadsworthoneal.com>
Message-ID: <CAGOVf5-vfe3ofS3-L9-muM-X6ETVu_u9bw0DJ4GrGJRdKL=quQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi
First time on this forum and haven't got the foggiest idea what I'm doing.

I've taken out my Healey for the first time in two years. My problem is the
clutch is not functioning properly. I can let it out fully and, with pause,
the car will move forward or backward. seems the gas pedal is taking over
the clutch's function. Can I drive it to a garage or should I have it towed
?

George

*George Couch*
KCL System Components, Ltd.
Toronto, ON
416-496-0540
FAX: 416-499-8422
*www.kclsystems.com <http://www.kclsystems.com>*
*KCL*


On Sat, 25 Aug 2018 at 08:03, Ed O'Neal <Ed at wadsworthoneal.com> wrote:

> There is no suction from the hydraulic system. The pressure plate springs
> push the rod back in AS the clutch peddle is returned. Actually if you push
> in the peddle with the rod disconnected then release the peddle additional
> fluid will be drawn in from the reservoir and another push on the peddle
> and the rod will pop all the way out.
>
> Actually there is a small spring inside the slave cylinder positioned to
> lightly push the rod outward for which there is no apparent reason. I
> discovered this when I tagged out the carbon throw out bearing in berry
> little miles. Apparently my clutch linkage had very little resistance and
> this spring was maintaining contact of the bearing. Since there was no
> reason for the spring, I took it out. Everything has worked fine for more
> than 25K miles
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 24, 2018, at 10:23 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I think the throw out bearing pushes back on fulcrum arm and that pushes
> piston forward. I need to lengthen the fulcrum point on my smitty 5 speed
> system so the clutch engages higher up. Some day I will.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Fri, Aug 24, 2018, 5:15 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> If the clutch lever arm is disconnected from the slave cylinder push rod
>> and the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor, the push rod is pushed to
>> towards the rear of the car.  When the clutch pedal is released should
>> the suction created in the hydraulic system pull the slave cylinder
>> piston back in?  Or does the system rely on just the pressure plate
>> springs to move the release bearing/lever arm/rod/piston back?
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ed at wadsworthoneal.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/george at kclsystems.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 26 09:20:55 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 08:20:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch hydraulics question
In-Reply-To: <CAGOVf5-vfe3ofS3-L9-muM-X6ETVu_u9bw0DJ4GrGJRdKL=quQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c08b6abe-f5ba-2f55-4061-5cc9615adf75@earthlink.net>
 <CABXhz8-6eUnXAsaSHLnp3=7CLYQKW44Y453qg4y5uLcA52Rcww@mail.gmail.com>
 <BA0F0031-C510-44A9-BEF4-20106170CBDC@wadsworthoneal.com>
 <CAGOVf5-vfe3ofS3-L9-muM-X6ETVu_u9bw0DJ4GrGJRdKL=quQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7f3e91f5-93e7-be32-9c8f-dde0b7577435@comcast.net>

re: "I can let it out fully and, with pause, the car will move forward 
or backward."

Not sure I've got the description of the problem right, but it sounds 
like your clutch is slipping (it might be a good idea to start a new 
thread for your issue).

Bob


On 7/26/2019 7:36 AM, George Couch wrote:
> Hi
> First time on this forum and haven't got the foggiest idea what I'm doing.
>
> I've taken out my Healey for the first time in two years. My problem 
> is the clutch is not functioning properly. I can let it out fully and, 
> with pause, the car will move forward or backward. seems the gas pedal 
> is taking over the clutch's function. Can I drive it to a garage or 
> should I have it towed ?
>
> George
> *
> *
> *George Couch*
> KCL System Components, Ltd.
> Toronto, ON
> 416-496-0540
> FAX: 416-499-8422
> *www.kclsystems.com <http://www.kclsystems.com>*
> *KCL*
>
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Jul 26 10:07:50 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 09:07:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] clutch hydraulics question
In-Reply-To: <CAGOVf5-vfe3ofS3-L9-muM-X6ETVu_u9bw0DJ4GrGJRdKL=quQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c08b6abe-f5ba-2f55-4061-5cc9615adf75@earthlink.net>
 <CABXhz8-6eUnXAsaSHLnp3=7CLYQKW44Y453qg4y5uLcA52Rcww@mail.gmail.com>
 <BA0F0031-C510-44A9-BEF4-20106170CBDC@wadsworthoneal.com>
 <CAGOVf5-vfe3ofS3-L9-muM-X6ETVu_u9bw0DJ4GrGJRdKL=quQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EFFA38B4F70E4F8B85201611BD155E2A@DavidNockHP>

Your clutch hydraulic hose has colapsed on the inside and the fluid is slow to return to the master after releasing the clutch pedal. As long as there is no slippage after you get moving you should not have a problem driving the car to the shop

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: George Couch 
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 7:36 AM
To: Ed O'Neal 
Cc: Ahealey help ; i erbs 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] clutch hydraulics question

Hi
First time on this forum and haven't got the foggiest idea what I'm doing.

I've taken out my Healey for the first time in two years. My problem is the clutch is not functioning properly. I can let it out fully and, with pause, the car will move forward or backward. seems the gas pedal is taking over the clutch's function. Can I drive it to a garage or should I have it towed ?

George


George Couch 
KCL System Components, Ltd.
Toronto, ON
416-496-0540
FAX: 416-499-8422
www.kclsystems.com
KCL


On Sat, 25 Aug 2018 at 08:03, Ed O'Neal <Ed at wadsworthoneal.com> wrote:

  There is no suction from the hydraulic system. The pressure plate springs push the rod back in AS the clutch peddle is returned. Actually if you push in the peddle with the rod disconnected then release the peddle additional fluid will be drawn in from the reservoir and another push on the peddle and the rod will pop all the way out.  

  Actually there is a small spring inside the slave cylinder positioned to lightly push the rod outward for which there is no apparent reason. I discovered this when I tagged out the carbon throw out bearing in berry little miles. Apparently my clutch linkage had very little resistance and this spring was maintaining contact of the bearing. Since there was no reason for the spring, I took it out. Everything has worked fine for more than 25K miles




  Sent from my iPhone

  On Aug 24, 2018, at 10:23 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:


    I think the throw out bearing pushes back on fulcrum arm and that pushes piston forward. I need to lengthen the fulcrum point on my smitty 5 speed system so the clutch engages higher up. Some day I will.


    Ira Erbs
    Portland, OR
    typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

    On Fri, Aug 24, 2018, 5:15 PM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

      Listers,

      If the clutch lever arm is disconnected from the slave cylinder push rod 
      and the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor, the push rod is pushed to 
      towards the rear of the car.  When the clutch pedal is released should 
      the suction created in the hydraulic system pull the slave cylinder 
      piston back in?  Or does the system rely on just the pressure plate 
      springs to move the release bearing/lever arm/rod/piston back?

      Cheers,

      Bob Haskell
      AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
      http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
      _______________________________________________
      Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
      Suggested annual donation  $12.75

      Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

      Healeys at autox.team.net
      http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

      Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com


    _______________________________________________
    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
    Suggested annual donation  $12.75

    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

    Healeys at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

    Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ed at wadsworthoneal.com


  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

  Healeys at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/george at kclsystems.com




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From YNOTINK at msn.com  Fri Jul 26 11:08:59 2019
From: YNOTINK at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 17:08:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet question
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Does anyone know the function of the layer of tar paper that is supposed to go under the carpet? What are the pros and cons of leaving it out?

Thanks.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Jul 26 11:16:47 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 19:16:47 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet question
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <14d6ecdd-8485-6eb0-e260-79714e2ffa53@chello.nl>

It is an anti drone (in the old fashion meaning) layer, so you will have 
some more low frequency noise if you leave it out.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 26-7-2019 om 19:08 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE:
> Does anyone know the function of the layer of tar paper that is 
> supposed to go under the carpet? What are the pros and cons of leaving 
> it out?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Jul 26 11:30:14 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 10:30:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet question
In-Reply-To: <14d6ecdd-8485-6eb0-e260-79714e2ffa53@chello.nl>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <14d6ecdd-8485-6eb0-e260-79714e2ffa53@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <A613CA5E2D7C4B01B37F93ACB02037C9@DavidNockHP>

Move up to the new age of heat and sound barriers. and install Dynamat thru out the interior. Will reduce noise and heat.



David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Kees Oudesluijs 
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 10:16 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carpet question

It is an anti drone (in the old fashion meaning) layer, so you will have some more low frequency noise if you leave it out.

Kees Oudesluijs





Op 26-7-2019 om 19:08 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE:

  Does anyone know the function of the layer of tar paper that is supposed to go under the carpet? What are the pros and cons of leaving it out?

  Thanks.

  Bill Lawrence
  BN1 #554

   
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 26 21:59:58 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 20:59:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>

Bill,


I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away 
scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)


Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 on 
the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).? The 
male part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.? The straps, 
IIRC, are secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm tomorrow 
(unless I have another senior moment).


Bob


On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
> Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two 
> leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 26 22:35:35 2019
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 04:35:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>,
 <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DM5PR2201MB1562A40B10FF186D81E19AF5D1C30@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Bill,
Bob is correct in how he described how the leather straps are held and can confirm that the straps are held by two rivets to the cover. These rivets are of the two- piece type, black in colour. I can send you photos if you wish.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 10:59:58 PM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trim bits


Bill,


I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)


Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 on the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).  The male part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.  The straps, IIRC, are secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm tomorrow (unless I have another senior moment).


Bob


On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?

Thanks.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jul 26 23:32:48 2019
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2019 22:32:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet question
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <000001d5443c$bacb4d70$3061e850$@sbcglobal.net>

Bill,

 

I have three layers and the cockpit never heats up.

 

Installed the following starting from the floor pan up:

 

Q-Pad instead of the tar paper which was most likely a sound
deadener/insulation at the time.

http://www.evercoat.com/product-detail/base-part/100116/us/

 

Dynamat for additional heat and sound dampening. It is meant to replace the
tar paper or in my case the Q-Pad.

http://www.dynamat.com/brands/dynamat-xtreme/

 

Dynaliner - advertised as a sonic and THERMAL blocker. Check the first
sentence I wrote if you doubt this statement. :)

http://www.dynamat.com/brands/dynaliner/

 

If I were to do it again, I might leave out the Q-Pad because it is hard to
install. Have a heat gun handy or pick a ware day to install it, because it
takes persistence to press it into place.

 

John Spaur

'62 BT7

San Jose, CA

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Friday, July 26, 2019 10:09 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Carpet question

 

Does anyone know the function of the layer of tar paper that is supposed to
go under the carpet? What are the pros and cons of leaving it out?

 

Thanks.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

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From schottc at knology.net  Sat Jul 27 07:31:47 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 09:31:47 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] B Pillar Bolt Pattern
In-Reply-To: <000001d5443c$bacb4d70$3061e850$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <000001d5443c$bacb4d70$3061e850$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <602155675.7136664.1564234307165.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Does anyone know where I can get information on welding in new B pillars on a 100 BN1. The old ones are in very bad shape and the B pillars I purchased had no holes in them so I would like to have a pattern. Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 

----- Original Message -----











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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Jul 27 11:38:49 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 13:38:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] B Pillar Bolt Pattern
In-Reply-To: <602155675.7136664.1564234307165.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <000001d5443c$bacb4d70$3061e850$@sbcglobal.net>
 <602155675.7136664.1564234307165.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJqKsb+QD+xBsVLUfcmpytNA3x5F9+a1yo7PqdN_E6HyQ@mail.gmail.com>

I would recommend waiting until you have the doors hung and adjusted before
making the holes for the strikers.
They aren't hard to lay out and drill at that stage but if you get them
wrong now they are somewhat difficult to move.

M

On Sat, Jul 27, 2019, 9:33 AM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net> wrote:

> Does anyone know where I can get information on welding in new B pillars
> on a 100 BN1. The old ones are in very bad shape and the B pillars I
> purchased had no holes in them so I would like to have a pattern. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> ------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 27 18:42:49 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 17:42:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
Message-ID: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>

A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis 
Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).? Today I 
tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized 
after fabbing a couple leads for it.? So my question is, does anybody 
make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually 
fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would 
prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a 
quarter-pedal of motion to activate.

Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be 
machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the 
correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop 
the leak).

TIA,

Bob



From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 27 18:44:54 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 17:44:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <97d153f0-4533-932a-ae9d-5c806d5d9aba@comcast.net>

Photos.? The rivets are two-piece; I used the same on the spare tire boot.


Bob

On 7/26/2019 8:59 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
>
> I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away 
> scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)
>
>
> Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 
> on the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).? 
> The male part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.? The 
> straps, IIRC, are secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm 
> tomorrow (unless I have another senior moment).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>> Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two 
>> leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Jul 27 19:24:51 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 01:24:51 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] B Pillar Bolt Pattern
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJqKsb+QD+xBsVLUfcmpytNA3x5F9+a1yo7PqdN_E6HyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878831CDF5C042E464D9A16A5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <000001d5443c$bacb4d70$3061e850$@sbcglobal.net>
 <602155675.7136664.1564234307165.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>,
 <CAB3i7LJqKsb+QD+xBsVLUfcmpytNA3x5F9+a1yo7PqdN_E6HyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB28788484F45CF7D22CD8F729A5C20@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I agree with Micheal. There are a lot of variables that affect the position of the striker and they all need to be reconciled before you cut into your new panels.

One thing I found is that the early cars had a different latching system and B-pillar design than the later ones. I don't know when the change was made, but the earlier latches seem to sit about a half inch outboard when compared to the later cars. That means the holes for the strikers on mine had to be considerably modified by the time I finally got the latches to function properly. Good thing all that is covered by the alloy finishers... which brings up another story.

Good luck with your build.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 5:38 PM
To: Charlie Schott <schottc at knology.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] B Pillar Bolt Pattern

I would recommend waiting until you have the doors hung and adjusted before making the holes for the strikers.
They aren't hard to lay out and drill at that stage but if you get them wrong now they are somewhat difficult to move.

M

On Sat, Jul 27, 2019, 9:33 AM Charles Schott, <schottc at knology.net<mailto:schottc at knology.net>> wrote:
Does anyone know where I can get information on welding in new B pillars on a 100 BN1. The old ones are in very bad shape and the B pillars I purchased had no holes in them so I would like to have a pattern. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott

________________________________







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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Jul 27 19:25:46 2019
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 21:25:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <B642894C-70CA-4B59-8EFF-7F4C90886D10@mac.com>

Bob, 
I may be the one who recommended the Ron Francis switch. I didn?t use it on my Healey. I used it on my 64 Jaguar MK2. It worked just fine - no thread incompatibility problems. No leaks at all. It is hard to believe that the brass pipe junction on the Jag has a different thread than the Healey, but obviously something must be different. I apologize if I steered you in the wrong direction. I no longer have the Jag so I can?t check for you. Perhaps someone else will chime in.

Lin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 27, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
> 
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop the leak).
> 
> TIA,
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com
> 


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 27 20:51:07 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 19:51:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <B642894C-70CA-4B59-8EFF-7F4C90886D10@mac.com>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <B642894C-70CA-4B59-8EFF-7F4C90886D10@mac.com>
Message-ID: <61e8f432-ad92-dc3b-3e99-b8d48c7ed563@comcast.net>

No problemo, Lin.? I would've figured a Jag part would fit a Healey, 
too.?? If nothing else, I'll try a new switch from the 'usual suspects' 
and see if it's more responsive.

Bob

On 7/27/2019 6:25 PM, Linwood Rose wrote:
> Bob,
> I may be the one who recommended the Ron Francis switch. I didn?t use it on my Healey. I used it on my 64 Jaguar MK2. It worked just fine - no thread incompatibility problems. No leaks at all. It is hard to believe that the brass pipe junction on the Jag has a different thread than the Healey, but obviously something must be different. I apologize if I steered you in the wrong direction. I no longer have the Jag so I can?t check for you. Perhaps someone else will chime in.
>
> Lin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 27, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>>
>> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop the leak).
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>

From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Sun Jul 28 01:17:39 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 09:17:39 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <61e8f432-ad92-dc3b-3e99-b8d48c7ed563@comcast.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <B642894C-70CA-4B59-8EFF-7F4C90886D10@mac.com>
 <61e8f432-ad92-dc3b-3e99-b8d48c7ed563@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1564298259129.4171101.ece44870e29695c74db9eb5001d1805d54119f8f@spica.telekom.de>

There are different threads for Healeys with or without brake booster.

Josef Eckert
Germany



-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
Datum: 2019-07-28T04:51:56+0200
Von: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>
An: "Linwood Rose" <linwoodrose at mac.com>

No problemo, Lin.? I would've figured a Jag part would fit a Healey, 
too.?? If nothing else, I'll try a new switch from the 'usual suspects' 
and see if it's more responsive.

Bob

On 7/27/2019 6:25 PM, Linwood Rose wrote:
> Bob,
> I may be the one who recommended the Ron Francis switch. I didn?t use it on my Healey. I used it on my 64 Jaguar MK2. It worked just fine - no thread incompatibility problems. No leaks at all. It is hard to believe that the brass pipe junction on the Jag has a different thread than the Healey, but obviously something must be different. I apologize if I steered you in the wrong direction. I no longer have the Jag so I can?t check for you. Perhaps someone else will chime in.
>
> Lin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 27, 2019, at 8:42 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>>
>> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop the leak).
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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?

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 06:20:03 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 08:20:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>

I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at first
seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began to harden up
and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a stop even under
throttle.  I pulled over and after about 30 minutes the brakes released and
I crept back home.

At this point I am assuming nothing.  Other than perhaps by feel I don't
know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but I will go
over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC on general
principle.  I am also going to replace the heat wrap that went around the
manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the brake actuating rod as
perhaps it was preventing the MC from overheating, etc.

Egg on my face....

Best--Michael Oritt
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From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 06:25:05 2019
From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 08:25:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADqHe-0dPbMLyhyoT5gHWt14X0X6xZmybrZOGGWGAu8SkmtQ6A@mail.gmail.com>

Do you have a booster?

jon

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:20 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at first
> seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began to harden up
> and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a stop even under
> throttle.  I pulled over and after about 30 minutes the brakes released and
> I crept back home.
>
> At this point I am assuming nothing.  Other than perhaps by feel I don't
> know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but I will go
> over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC on general
> principle.  I am also going to replace the heat wrap that went around the
> manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the brake actuating rod as
> perhaps it was preventing the MC from overheating, etc.
>
> Egg on my face....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
129 Whitney Avenue
New Haven, CT. 06510
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Jul 28 06:39:11 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 14:39:11 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <906e00d1-15e5-ef77-2a9a-df0ac08cd616@chello.nl>

Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they 
are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are 
they by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. 
Also flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may 
be some debris in it somewhere. Try again and if solved it may well have 
been collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved 
adjust the rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC 
and adjust the rod.

When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the 
special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.

Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of 
brakes.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 28-7-2019 om 14:20 schreef Michael Oritt:
> I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at 
> first seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began 
> to harden up and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a 
> stop even under throttle.? I pulled over and after about 30 minutes 
> the brakes released and I crept back home.
>
> At this point I am assuming nothing.? Other than perhaps by feel I 
> don't know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but 
> I will go over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC 
> on general principle.? I am also going to replace the heat wrap that 
> went around the manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the 
> brake actuating rod as perhaps it was preventing the MC from 
> overheating, etc.
>
> Egg on my face....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 06:45:39 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 08:45:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <906e00d1-15e5-ef77-2a9a-df0ac08cd616@chello.nl>
References: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
 <906e00d1-15e5-ef77-2a9a-df0ac08cd616@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7HYfGLtPTLfy_8P1emUzLwigBjsyM-4emi1LdwE7AAQA@mail.gmail.com>

Kees--

That is about the procedure I envisioned following.

Since there has never been any pulling to one side I doubt the failure is
at one particular corner, but the hoses are at least 15 years old and
deserve replacement.  I replaced the MC innards with a kit a year or so ago
but will go through it again and replace as necessary.  I'll also flush the
system thoroughly.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:39 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they
> are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are they
> by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. Also
> flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may be some
> debris in it somewhere.  Try again and if solved it may well have been
> collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved adjust the
> rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC and adjust the
> rod.
>
> When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the
> special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.
>
> Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of
> brakes.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 28-7-2019 om 14:20 schreef Michael Oritt:
>
> I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at first
> seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began to harden up
> and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a stop even under
> throttle.  I pulled over and after about 30 minutes the brakes released and
> I crept back home.
>
> At this point I am assuming nothing.  Other than perhaps by feel I don't
> know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but I will go
> over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC on general
> principle.  I am also going to replace the heat wrap that went around the
> manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the brake actuating rod as
> perhaps it was preventing the MC from overheating, etc.
>
> Egg on my face....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virusvrij.
> www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_2419550027455819460_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 07:08:10 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 09:08:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKvY=hmg2FenNHam8VygnSrxDnWHgSc-HAsEK6=BE65kQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,  I'm sure that you probably appreciate this but ... if a brake
hose is the culprit then either 1 front or both rear brakes will be hot AND
the master cylinder "feel" will be approximately similar to normal.
The fact that the pedal goes hard indicates that the entire system is
retaining pressure and the most probable cause is the system charge valve
within the master cylinder.
The charge valve type in the 100 master cylinder is prone to problems as a
consequence of its design.
Opening a bleed screw when the brakes tighten up is the test that I use to
confirm such a master cylinder fault.
Remember,  correct diagnosis is 80% of the job!!

M

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 8:20 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at first
> seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began to harden up
> and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a stop even under
> throttle.  I pulled over and after about 30 minutes the brakes released and
> I crept back home.
>
> At this point I am assuming nothing.  Other than perhaps by feel I don't
> know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but I will go
> over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC on general
> principle.  I am also going to replace the heat wrap that went around the
> manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the brake actuating rod as
> perhaps it was preventing the MC from overheating, etc.
>
> Egg on my face....
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul 28 07:42:23 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 13:42:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>

I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.?Gary H

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>

Kees--
That is about the procedure I envisioned following.??
Since there has never been any pulling to one side I doubt the failure is at one particular corner, but the hoses are at least 15 years old and deserve replacement.? I replaced the MC innards with a kit a year or so ago but will go through it again and replace as necessary.? I'll also flush the system thoroughly.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:39 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

  Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are they by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. Also flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may be some debris in it somewhere.? Try again and if solved it may well have been collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved adjust the rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC and adjust the rod. 
  When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.
  Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of brakes. Kees Oudesluijs 
  
  

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 07:40:34 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 09:40:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKvY=hmg2FenNHam8VygnSrxDnWHgSc-HAsEK6=BE65kQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKvY=hmg2FenNHam8VygnSrxDnWHgSc-HAsEK6=BE65kQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7=8c0q4=MjcVL0+EO9e3njuxznomgdZESo4StJSL90Xg@mail.gmail.com>

Michael

I was considering jacking up the car and releasing pressure at the wheels
but aside from not being dressed for alongside the road maintenance I
figured that by the time I did all this the pressure would release on own.

I agree that the MC is the likely culprit but at this point will assume
nothing

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:08 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Michael,  I'm sure that you probably appreciate this but ... if a brake
> hose is the culprit then either 1 front or both rear brakes will be hot AND
> the master cylinder "feel" will be approximately similar to normal.
> The fact that the pedal goes hard indicates that the entire system is
> retaining pressure and the most probable cause is the system charge valve
> within the master cylinder.
> The charge valve type in the 100 master cylinder is prone to problems as a
> consequence of its design.
> Opening a bleed screw when the brakes tighten up is the test that I use to
> confirm such a master cylinder fault.
> Remember,  correct diagnosis is 80% of the job!!
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 8:20 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I finally got to take the car out yesterday evening and while all at
>> first seemed good after five or so miles of driving the brakes began to
>> harden up and became so bad that they almost brought the car to a stop even
>> under throttle.  I pulled over and after about 30 minutes the brakes
>> released and I crept back home.
>>
>> At this point I am assuming nothing.  Other than perhaps by feel I don't
>> know how one can inspect a brake hose for internal collapse but I will go
>> over each component and probably rebuild or replace the MC on general
>> principle.  I am also going to replace the heat wrap that went around the
>> manifold which I removed when I first adjusted the brake actuating rod as
>> perhaps it was preventing the MC from overheating, etc.
>>
>> Egg on my face....
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul 28 07:53:20 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 13:53:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7=8c0q4=MjcVL0+EO9e3njuxznomgdZESo4StJSL90Xg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6iaZN3vbUDAPdnGvaFchUj7TKfDv2ef37HNzrYy0Uk-A@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKvY=hmg2FenNHam8VygnSrxDnWHgSc-HAsEK6=BE65kQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7=8c0q4=MjcVL0+EO9e3njuxznomgdZESo4StJSL90Xg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1485480888.7843634.1564322000955@mail.yahoo.com>

Just to be clear, you only have to release the pressure at any one point in the break line system, not at all wheels.Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>

Michael
I was considering jacking up the car and releasing pressure at the wheels but aside from not being dressed for alongside the road maintenance I figured that by the time I did all this the pressure would release on own.
I agree that the MC is the likely culprit but at this point will assume? nothing

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 28 07:57:40 2019
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 13:57:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <97d153f0-4533-932a-ae9d-5c806d5d9aba@comcast.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>,
 <97d153f0-4533-932a-ae9d-5c806d5d9aba@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DM5PR2201MB15620AB4C6E674F6D742F114D1C20@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

The hold down straps should be made of leather, with a single or two piece glued together but in many of the kits available today, like in the photo here, they are made of the same type of vinyl as the trim, double thickness, sewn together.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 7:44:54 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trim bits


Photos.  The rivets are two-piece; I used the same on the spare tire boot.


Bob

On 7/26/2019 8:59 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:

Bill,


I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)


Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 on the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).  The male part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.  The straps, IIRC, are secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm tomorrow (unless I have another senior moment).


Bob


On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?

Thanks.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554


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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 08:11:07 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 10:11:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>

Regarding pushrod free play.
Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to
the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has
free play.
Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,  article on the
subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using
silicon fluid.

M

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is
> the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that
> there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.
> Gary H
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>
> Kees--
>
> That is about the procedure I envisioned following.
>
> Since there has never been any pulling to one side I doubt the failure is
> at one particular corner, but the hoses are at least 15 years old and
> deserve replacement.  I replaced the MC innards with a kit a year or so ago
> but will go through it again and replace as necessary.  I'll also flush the
> system thoroughly.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:39 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
>
> Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they
> are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are they
> by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. Also
> flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may be some
> debris in it somewhere.  Try again and if solved it may well have been
> collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved adjust the
> rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC and adjust the
> rod.
> When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the
> special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.
> Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of
> brakes.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 28 09:18:54 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 08:18:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR2201MB15620AB4C6E674F6D742F114D1C20@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
 <97d153f0-4533-932a-ae9d-5c806d5d9aba@comcast.net>
 <DM5PR2201MB15620AB4C6E674F6D742F114D1C20@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <c1e0eb35-0a4a-75d7-6974-ff852e1cefef@comcast.net>

Jean,


Do you know of any vendor that makes the correct leather straps?


Bob



On 7/28/2019 6:57 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> The hold down straps should be made of leather, with a single or two 
> piece glued together but in many of the kits available today, like in 
> the photo here, they are made of the same type of vinyl as the trim, 
> double thickness, sewn together.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob 
> Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 27, 2019 7:44:54 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trim bits
>
> Photos.? The rivets are two-piece; I used the same on the spare tire boot.
>
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/26/2019 8:59 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>>
>> I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away 
>> scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)
>>
>>
>> Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 
>> on the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).? 
>> The male part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.? The 
>> straps, IIRC, are secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm 
>> tomorrow (unless I have another senior moment).
>>
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>>> Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two 
>>> leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 #554
>>>
>>
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 09:53:20 2019
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 11:53:20 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <c1e0eb35-0a4a-75d7-6974-ff852e1cefef@comcast.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
 <97d153f0-4533-932a-ae9d-5c806d5d9aba@comcast.net>
 <DM5PR2201MB15620AB4C6E674F6D742F114D1C20@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <c1e0eb35-0a4a-75d7-6974-ff852e1cefef@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DE449720-59D6-4657-8992-98EE000FCB7D@gmail.com>

MacGregor

> On Jul 28, 2019, at 11:18, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> Jean,
> 
> 
> 
> Do you know of any vendor that makes the correct leather straps?
> 
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On 7/28/2019 6:57 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>> The hold down straps should be made of leather, with a single or two piece glued together but in many of the kits available today, like in the photo here, they are made of the same type of vinyl as the trim, double thickness, sewn together.
>>  
>> Jean
>>  
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>>  
>>        
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
>> Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2019 7:44:54 PM
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trim bits
>>  
>> Photos.  The rivets are two-piece; I used the same on the spare tire boot.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>>> On 7/26/2019 8:59 PM, Bob Spidell           wrote:
>>> Bill,
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 on the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).  The male part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.  The straps, IIRC, are secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm tomorrow (unless I have another senior moment).
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>>>> Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two leather hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks.
>>>> 
>>>> Bill Lawrence
>>>> BN1 #554
>>>> 
>>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 09:53:50 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 11:53:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Trim bits
In-Reply-To: <c1e0eb35-0a4a-75d7-6974-ff852e1cefef@comcast.net>
References: <MWHPR07MB2878BD4E29D0B9AE9403AE1FA5C00@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <6e8979f7-fc85-2b09-6559-c92f92a7d879@comcast.net>
 <97d153f0-4533-932a-ae9d-5c806d5d9aba@comcast.net>
 <DM5PR2201MB15620AB4C6E674F6D742F114D1C20@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <c1e0eb35-0a4a-75d7-6974-ff852e1cefef@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK7ZTf0=3PCZDfHxiEQvsdKObhi-xcyKc=fPGO0Z-RthA@mail.gmail.com>

I got a pair from Geoff Chrysler

M

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 11:19 AM Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Jean,
>
>
> Do you know of any vendor that makes the correct leather straps?
>
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On 7/28/2019 6:57 AM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> The hold down straps should be made of leather, with a single or two piece
> glued together but in many of the kits available today, like in the photo
> here, they are made of the same type of vinyl as the trim, double
> thickness, sewn together.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 27, 2019 7:44:54 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Trim bits
>
>
> Photos.  The rivets are two-piece; I used the same on the spare tire boot.
>
>
> Bob
> On 7/26/2019 8:59 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>
> Bill,
>
>
> I meant to snap a photo of my BN2's cover today, but got carried away
> scraping tarpaper off my BJ8's floor pans ;)
>
>
> Anyway, the bottom is secured with 'Lift-A-Dot' snaps; items# 102-104 on
> the latest Moss catalog on p. 138 (part# 226-308 for the snap).  The male
> part of the L-A-Ds are bolted to the rear bulkhead.  The straps, IIRC, are
> secured to the cover with rivets, but I'll confirm tomorrow (unless I have
> another senior moment).
>
>
> Bob
>
>
> On 7/25/2019 9:22 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote:
>
> Can anyone tell me what type of hardware is used to attach the two leather
> hold-down straps to the battery cover on a 100?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 10:09:01 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 12:09:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4EZPir9pCJU3NO8mKvmVERG+vCnA9M=+RRLRwndNKsCw@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

Do you remember the issue and/or can you point me toward it and its
possible resolution?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 10:11 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Regarding pushrod free play.
> Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to
> the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has
> free play.
> Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,  article on the
> subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using
> silicon fluid.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is
>> the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that
>> there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.
>> Gary H
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>>
>> Kees--
>>
>> That is about the procedure I envisioned following.
>>
>> Since there has never been any pulling to one side I doubt the failure is
>> at one particular corner, but the hoses are at least 15 years old and
>> deserve replacement.  I replaced the MC innards with a kit a year or so ago
>> but will go through it again and replace as necessary.  I'll also flush the
>> system thoroughly.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:39 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they
>> are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are they
>> by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. Also
>> flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may be some
>> debris in it somewhere.  Try again and if solved it may well have been
>> collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved adjust the
>> rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC and adjust the
>> rod.
>> When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the
>> special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.
>> Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of
>> brakes.
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 11:18:15 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 13:18:15 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4EZPir9pCJU3NO8mKvmVERG+vCnA9M=+RRLRwndNKsCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B4EZPir9pCJU3NO8mKvmVERG+vCnA9M=+RRLRwndNKsCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LL4rhPHprnUaN2z2f-SEaQUSQrHKp55aLtUnztUXyJ8-A@mail.gmail.com>

As I recall Roger found that after using silicone brake fluid there was a
certain degree of swelling of the master cylinder seals, including the so
called  "recuperating seat". As a consequence of this the "recuperating"
passage to reservoir was not opening up when the piston was fully extended.
Going from memory Roger found that it was necessary to machine the master
cylinder body to provide more space for the recuperating seat and shim
washer.

The article was published in at least one of the national club mags.

I would think that the uncertainty of materials used in current seal sets
and brake fluids could very easily cause any seal to swell with similar
consequences.

M

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 12:09 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Michael--
>
> Do you remember the issue and/or can you point me toward it and its
> possible resolution?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 10:11 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Regarding pushrod free play.
>> Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to
>> the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has
>> free play.
>> Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,  article on
>> the subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using
>> silicon fluid.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this
>>> is the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such
>>> that there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.
>>> Gary H
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>>> To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>>>
>>> Kees--
>>>
>>> That is about the procedure I envisioned following.
>>>
>>> Since there has never been any pulling to one side I doubt the failure
>>> is at one particular corner, but the hoses are at least 15 years old and
>>> deserve replacement.  I replaced the MC innards with a kit a year or so ago
>>> but will go through it again and replace as necessary.  I'll also flush the
>>> system thoroughly.
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:39 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they
>>> are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are they
>>> by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. Also
>>> flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may be some
>>> debris in it somewhere.  Try again and if solved it may well have been
>>> collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved adjust the
>>> rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC and adjust the
>>> rod.
>>> When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the
>>> special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.
>>> Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of
>>> brakes.
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 28 11:37:16 2019
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 17:37:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4EZPir9pCJU3NO8mKvmVERG+vCnA9M=+RRLRwndNKsCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>,
 <CAPTa0B4EZPir9pCJU3NO8mKvmVERG+vCnA9M=+RRLRwndNKsCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM5PR2201MB1562213D786DB67DEA084440D1C20@DM5PR2201MB1562.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Michael,
The article from Roger Moment is in the Austin-Healey Magazine, issue December 2003.
If you are a member of the AHCUSA, you can go on the website and the article is likely entered there as most of the Technical articles for the past several years have been downloaded on the website.
If not I can check if I have a copy of that particular magazine in stock, I am the Historian for the Club.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2019 11:09:01 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake issue

Michael--

Do you remember the issue and/or can you point me toward it and its possible resolution?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 10:11 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
Regarding pushrod free play.
Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has free play.
Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,  article on the subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using silicon fluid.

M

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.
Gary H


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com<mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>>
To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl<mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>>

Kees--

That is about the procedure I envisioned following.

Since there has never been any pulling to one side I doubt the failure is at one particular corner, but the hoses are at least 15 years old and deserve replacement.  I replaced the MC innards with a kit a year or so ago but will go through it again and replace as necessary.  I'll also flush the system thoroughly.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 8:39 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl<mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
Go through each component one by one. Start with new brake hoses if they are still the old fashioned rubber/textile construction. How old are they by the way? Probably decades so renewal was probably well overdue. Also flush the entire brake system with fresh brake fluid as there may be some debris in it somewhere.  Try again and if solved it may well have been collapsed inner wall of one or both of the tubes. If not solved adjust the rod on the MBC. Still not solved, renew or overhaul the MBC and adjust the rod.
When rebuilding brake components do NOT use clean brake fluid but the special brake grease from At?, Girling or equivalent.
Overheating is unlikely as that will generally lead to complete loss of brakes.
Kees Oudesluijs



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://nam04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7Ce6fc7ee5a5e84403c4e908d71375fc92%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C636999269773560832&sdata=nAKbIz8xFvpopkvfMmOkZDUIBMN60DzzJSzNkBYpocg%3D&reserved=0>
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Jul 28 11:44:54 2019
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 17:44:54 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] AH100 Hotwheel
Message-ID: <20190728.134454.9366.1@webmail06.dca.untd.com>

In cleaning up my "room', I came across 3, still in the original packaging, Hot Wheels #32 of 36, Austin Healey 100, 'nasty boys' black/silver. Free to the first 3 replies. Just pay the shipping. Thanks and Happy Healeying. Cheers,Doug
____________________________________________________________
Oncologists Are Freaking Out Over True Cause of Cancer
healthresponses.org
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5d3ddf4bcde1b5f4b2fb8st02duc
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Jul 28 11:46:17 2019
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 11:46:17 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <72359cf2-afea-b311-ea5d-de461680ab3f@comcast.net>
References: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <ADE3F931602D49508EE44B532CC7A141@KagsLaptop>
 <72359cf2-afea-b311-ea5d-de461680ab3f@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1327116986.44804941.1564335977280.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Thanks to Earl, Bob and others for good suggestions and ideas.
However after lot more poking around little progress and still cant replicate the noise.One thing is that if the car has stood in the coolness of overnight it takes about 10 mins for it to be back with a vengance. The irritating thing is that it is random and a definitive pattern still elludes me. Noise seems to be in the vicinity of the volt regulator box.One of these days will remove the passenger air vent hose and try to access the plate Earl referred to.Think that this could be the culprit.Thank yourg
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 08:52:16 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise

Earl,Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0? 
 You're describing the problem I have.Bob
On 7/17/2019 11:22 PM, Earl Kagna
 wrote:
Roger: This reminds me of a similar situation that I had many
 years ago on my BJ8 ? a ?thunk? sound from the left side of
 the dash area (or so I thought) on certain bumps but not
 others. Drove me nuts trying to find it - literally for
 years.  Finally found it when the car was torn down in
 conjunction with the total restoration. There are 2 plates ? one on each side of the car ? called
 wing support brackets in the body manual (plate BC 2) - that
 tie the assembled wing / shroud flange to the top of the
 inner wheel arch.  The manual is not very clear on this
 thing. When dismantling this part of the body, we found the pair
 of bolt / nut assemblies totally missing and clear evidence
 that this was the source of the ?thunk?.  But it sure
 sounded like it was coming from the dash or bonnet. Your problem just might be that these bolts are there but
 loose, which could conceivably cause a creak type of sound
 that seems to be from the dash area.  Try pressing down on
 the right side fender / shroud close to the centre of the
 wheel cut out and maybe fore and aft a bit to see if you can
 produce a similar sound.  The bad news is that these things
 are a real pain to get to on an assembled car ? they are
 almost impossible to see, let alone service as they are up
 high and behind the air hoses on both sides, and can?t be
 accessed from the wheel arch because of the inner fender
 position. If all else fails, it?s worth a try.  Let us know. Earl Kagna

Victoria, B.C.

BJ8, BT7 tri-carbFrom:Roger GraceSent: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 6:20 PMTo:mailto:healeys at autox.team.netSubject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise 67 BJ8 

Am about fit to be tied ! 

Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for
 about a month now. 

Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of
 glove box, 

A creak rather than a clunk. 

So what have I done. 

Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts,
 clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts,
 jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and
 still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts
 doors checked. 

Was convinced was something to do with the heater
 controls - spent most of one weekend removing and
 replacing it more securely (what a pia job !). 

The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse
 when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also
 thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater
 valve off. 

Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up
 that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few
 days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type
 noise. 

It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car
 stops. 

In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if
 could be a problem there ? 

Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and
 pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield
 in that area. 

Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no
 change, 

What is maddening is that there are times when for
 aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone.... 

Ideas please ! 

rg.


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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Jul 28 12:13:19 2019
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 12:13:19 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
Works just fine.
rg


----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis 
Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).? Today I 
tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized 
after fabbing a couple leads for it.? So my question is, does anybody 
make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually 
fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would 
prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a 
quarter-pedal of motion to activate.

Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be 
machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the 
correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop 
the leak).

TIA,

Bob


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From warthodson at aol.com  Sun Jul 28 12:25:32 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 18:25:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <292869215.7863718.1564338332855@mail.yahoo.com>

Michael,You are correct in pointing out that there is known problem with the 100 master cylinders. In addition, inadequate free play adjustment of the 100 master cylinder could also cause similar symptoms. Adjusting the free play seems like the easiest thing to check first.Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jul 28, 2019 9:11 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake issue

Regarding pushrod free play.Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has free play.Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,? article on the subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using silicon fluid.?
M
On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.?Gary H



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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 13:47:45 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 15:47:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <292869215.7863718.1564338332855@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <292869215.7863718.1564338332855@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7Xs04sLONO_XCDFb84aL0nzTXT4snLJy5Jat4Metzbbg@mail.gmail.com>

In yesterday's fiasco after a few miles of driving the brakes went to full
lock with no play whatsoever in the pedal, an d I had to pull off the road
and wait about 30 minutes until the pressure let off enough so that I could
make it back to the shop.  The consensus opinion, both on this forum and on
the Healey autox email list, is that there was not enough free play in the
master cylinder pushrod, thus preventing the MC piston to go past the
return hole and relieve pressure.

Earlier this afternoon, with everything cool, I put the car up on jack
stands and while under the car I actuated the brake while spinning the left
front wheel.  Whatever free play I had--or thought I had--last put into the
pedal linkage had disappeared and with no free play the slightest bit of
pedal movement brought about brake activation.  So after loosening the lock
nut I rotat the shaft about 1/4"-3/8" until there seemed to be the
appropriate amount of free movement and, again using moving the pedal from
under the car and spiing the left front wheel, there seemed to be some
gradual brake actuation.  So I locked the shaft down and went out for the
proverbial test ride.  At first all seemed good but as the engine warmed up
and after using the brakes several times with different degrees of
pressure, etc. I could again feel the brakes begin to drag and by the time
I got back to the garage the pedal height had changed with all free play
having disappeared.

I can't help but feel this phenom is--at least partially--related to heat
transfer into the MC.  It is very warm here in MD and, with the same pedal
shaft adjustment as yesterday, prior to temperatures going up there did not
seem to be any issue.  Then again maybe there has been some deterioration
within the MC and/or debris within the cylinder itself.

Anyway, I will make another attempt at adjustment tomorrow morning and
report back.  In the meantime thanks for the many helpful suggestions.
However it appears that more work needs to be done.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 2:25 PM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:

> Michael,
> You are correct in pointing out that there is known problem with the 100
> master cylinders. In addition, inadequate free play adjustment of the 100
> master cylinder could also cause similar symptoms. Adjusting the free play
> seems like the easiest thing to check first.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
> Cc: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Oudesluys <
> coudesluijs at chello.nl>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Jul 28, 2019 9:11 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake issue
>
> Regarding pushrod free play.
> Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to
> the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has
> free play.
> Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,  article on the
> subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using
> silicon fluid.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is
> the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that
> there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.
> Gary H
>
>
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 16:47:08 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 18:47:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7Xs04sLONO_XCDFb84aL0nzTXT4snLJy5Jat4Metzbbg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <337002644.7807601.1564321343380.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <337002644.7807601.1564321343380@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0VuwdCYEW6MFuefBPCinP-u=Xw-Nt=Pko49XjPi2v1g@mail.gmail.com>
 <292869215.7863718.1564338332855@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B7Xs04sLONO_XCDFb84aL0nzTXT4snLJy5Jat4Metzbbg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLctwf6LaLu7DjtcHfm6F0jb0YM_HT3RGy+jV6E+B-_Og@mail.gmail.com>

Sounds to me as though the master cylinder piston circlip has become
dislodged.

M

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 3:47 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> In yesterday's fiasco after a few miles of driving the brakes went to full
> lock with no play whatsoever in the pedal, an d I had to pull off the
> road and wait about 30 minutes until the pressure let off enough so that I
> could make it back to the shop.  The consensus opinion, both on this forum
> and on the Healey autox email list, is that there was not enough free play
> in the master cylinder pushrod, thus preventing the MC piston to go past
> the return hole and relieve pressure.
>
> Earlier this afternoon, with everything cool, I put the car up on jack
> stands and while under the car I actuated the brake while spinning the left
> front wheel.  Whatever free play I had--or thought I had--last put into the
> pedal linkage had disappeared and with no free play the slightest bit of
> pedal movement brought about brake activation.  So after loosening the lock
> nut I rotat the shaft about 1/4"-3/8" until there seemed to be the
> appropriate amount of free movement and, again using moving the pedal from
> under the car and spiing the left front wheel, there seemed to be some
> gradual brake actuation.  So I locked the shaft down and went out for the
> proverbial test ride.  At first all seemed good but as the engine warmed
> up and after using the brakes several times with different degrees of
> pressure, etc. I could again feel the brakes begin to drag and by the time
> I got back to the garage the pedal height had changed with all free play
> having disappeared.
>
> I can't help but feel this phenom is--at least partially--related to heat
> transfer into the MC.  It is very warm here in MD and, with the same pedal
> shaft adjustment as yesterday, prior to temperatures going up there did not
> seem to be any issue.  Then again maybe there has been some deterioration
> within the MC and/or debris within the cylinder itself.
>
> Anyway, I will make another attempt at adjustment tomorrow morning and
> report back.  In the meantime thanks for the many helpful suggestions.
> However it appears that more work needs to be done.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 2:25 PM <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>> You are correct in pointing out that there is known problem with the 100
>> master cylinders. In addition, inadequate free play adjustment of the 100
>> master cylinder could also cause similar symptoms. Adjusting the free play
>> seems like the easiest thing to check first.
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> To: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
>> Cc: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Oudesluys <
>> coudesluijs at chello.nl>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Jul 28, 2019 9:11 am
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake issue
>>
>> Regarding pushrod free play.
>> Unfortunately the known problem with 100 master cylinders is internal to
>> the cylinder itself and is not resolved by ensuring that the push rod has
>> free play.
>> Roger Moment wrote an excellent, and of course exhaustive,  article on
>> the subject many years back after he encountered difficulties when using
>> silicon fluid.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 28, 2019, 9:42 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> I still suspect the lack of proper free play in the brake pedal & this is
>> the easiest to check. Simply adjust the free play, temporarily, such that
>> there is excessive free play & go for a test drive.
>> Gary H
>>
>>
>>
>>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Sun Jul 28 19:09:29 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 01:09:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <1327116986.44804941.1564335977280.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <663684782.6539114.1563412806156.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <ADE3F931602D49508EE44B532CC7A141@KagsLaptop>
 <72359cf2-afea-b311-ea5d-de461680ab3f@comcast.net>,
 <1327116986.44804941.1564335977280.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB2878F8EF7BFAF13C19E127BBA5DD0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I think the easiest access to that part is to remove the fender... If you call hat easy. Regretting that I didn't Loctite those screws...
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 28, 2019 5:46 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise

Thanks to Earl, Bob and others for good suggestions and ideas.
However after lot more poking around little progress and still cant replicate the noise.
One thing is that if the car has stood in the coolness of overnight it takes about 10 mins for it to be back with a vengance. The irritating thing is that it is random and a definitive pattern still elludes me. Noise seems to be in the vicinity of the volt regulator box.
One of these days will remove the passenger air vent hose and try to access the plate Earl referred to.
Think that this could be the culprit.
Thank you
rg


----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 08:52:16 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise


Earl,

Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0?
You're describing the problem I have.

Bob

On 7/17/2019 11:22 PM, Earl Kagna
wrote:
Roger:

This reminds me of a similar situation that I had many
years ago on my BJ8 ? a ?thunk? sound from the left side of
the dash area (or so I thought) on certain bumps but not
others. Drove me nuts trying to find it - literally for
years.  Finally found it when the car was torn down in
conjunction with the total restoration.

There are 2 plates ? one on each side of the car ? called
wing support brackets in the body manual (plate BC 2) - that
tie the assembled wing / shroud flange to the top of the
inner wheel arch.  The manual is not very clear on this
thing.

When dismantling this part of the body, we found the pair
of bolt / nut assemblies totally missing and clear evidence
that this was the source of the ?thunk?.  But it sure
sounded like it was coming from the dash or bonnet.

Your problem just might be that these bolts are there but
loose, which could conceivably cause a creak type of sound
that seems to be from the dash area.  Try pressing down on
the right side fender / shroud close to the centre of the
wheel cut out and maybe fore and aft a bit to see if you can
produce a similar sound.  The bad news is that these things
are a real pain to get to on an assembled car ? they are
almost impossible to see, let alone service as they are up
high and behind the air hoses on both sides, and can?t be
accessed from the wheel arch because of the inner fender
position.

If all else fails, it?s worth a try.  Let us know.

Earl Kagna

Victoria, B.C.

BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
From:Roger Grace<mailto:roggrace at telus.net>
Sent: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 6:20 PM
To:mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise

67 BJ8

Am about fit to be tied !

Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for
about a month now.

Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of
glove box,

A creak rather than a clunk.

So what have I done.

Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts,
clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts,
jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and
still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts
doors checked.

Was convinced was something to do with the heater
controls - spent most of one weekend removing and
replacing it more securely (what a pia job !).

The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse
when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also
thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater
valve off.

Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up
that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few
days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type
noise.

It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car
stops.

In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if
could be a problem there ?

Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and
pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield
in that area.

Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no
change,

What is maddening is that there are times when for
aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone....

Ideas please !

rg.


________________________________


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 28 21:01:30 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 20:01:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.? I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.? My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.? 
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

Bob

On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).? Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.? So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>

From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sun Jul 28 21:29:41 2019
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 13:29:41 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <0b07f0$5o77u6@icp-osb-irony-out7.iinet.net.au>

...get a mechanical switch from Watson Streetworks ? you?ll never have a problem again!

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, 29 July 2019 1:03 PM
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.? I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.? My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.? 
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.


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From banjojohn at cox.net  Sun Jul 28 21:52:11 2019
From: banjojohn at cox.net (banjojohn)
Date: Sun, 28 Jul 2019 22:52:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise
In-Reply-To: <1327116986.44804941.1564335977280.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.34.1564372353.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Just another thought.? I fought an irritating noise seemingly coming from under the dash for quite a while before realizing it was the hood (bonnet) bouncing up and down at the rear passenger side corner. It was bouncing against the hood opening drip lip.? There are a couple rubber bumpers in the drip lip channel but they did not? do the job.? I used self adhesive foam weather strio and lined the entire drip lip.? Problem solved, for my car anyway.? I never noticed the bouncing hood because the rear view mirror blocked my view of that corner of the hood.Obviously its hard to say if your problem is the same, but I thought I'd pass it onJohn O'Brien'65 BJ8 (Madelyn)'61 Bugeye (Lucy)Sent from my Sprint Samsung Galaxy S7.
-------- Original message --------From: Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> Date: 7/28/19  12:46 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise Thanks to Earl, Bob and others for good suggestions and ideas.However after lot more poking around little progress and still cant replicate the noise.One thing is that if the car has stood in the coolness of overnight it takes about 10 mins for it to be back with a vengance. The irritating thing is that it is random and a definitive pattern still elludes me. Noise seems to be in the vicinity of the volt regulator box.One of these days will remove the passenger air vent hose and try to access the plate Earl referred to.Think that this could be the culprit.Thank yourg----- Original Message -----From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>To: healeys at autox.team.netSent: Thu, 18 Jul 2019 08:52:16 -0600 (MDT)Subject: Re: [Healeys] Dash Area NoiseEarl,Is this Moss# 858-385 (#44 on page 118 of the latest catalog0?? You're describing the problem I have.BobOn 7/17/2019 11:22 PM, Earl Kagna wrote:Roger:?This reminds me of a similar situation that I had many years ago on my BJ8 ? a ?thunk? sound from the left side of the dash area (or so I thought) on certain bumps but not others. Drove me nuts trying to find it - literally for years.? Finally found it when the car was torn down in conjunction with the total restoration.?There are 2 plates ? one on each side of the car ? called wing support brackets in the body manual (plate BC 2) - that tie the assembled wing / shroud flange to the top of the inner wheel arch.? The manual is not very clear on this thing.?When dismantling this part of the body, we found the pair of bolt / nut assemblies totally missing and clear evidence that this was the source of the ?thunk?.? But it sure sounded like it was coming from the dash or bonnet.?Your problem just might be that these bolts are there but loose, which could conceivably cause a creak type of sound that seems to be from the dash area.? Try pressing down on the right side fender / shroud close to the centre of the wheel cut out and maybe fore and aft a bit to see if you can produce a similar sound.? The bad news is that these things are a real pain to get to on an assembled car ? they are almost impossible to see, let alone service as they are up high and behind the air hoses on both sides, and can?t be accessed from the wheel arch because of the inner fender position.?If all else fails, it?s worth a try.? Let us know.?Earl KagnaVictoria, B.C.BJ8, BT7 tri-carbFrom:Roger GraceSent: Wednesday, July 17, 2019 6:20 PMTo:mailto:healeys at autox.team.netSubject: [Healeys] Dash Area Noise?67 BJ8 Am about fit to be tied ! Have been struggling with a new intermittant noise for about a month now. Seems to eminate in the dash area above left side of glove box, A creak rather than a clunk. So what have I done. Tightened everything in that area - starter mounts, clecked bell housing, checked brake booster mounts, jammed the air vents solid, removed center console and still no improvement.Tightened windshield side mounts doors checked. Was convinced was something to do with the heater controls - spent most of one weekend removing and replacing it more securely (what a pia job !). The noise is not tied to road or engine speed, but worse when going over uneven surface, even very slowly. Also thought was worse after car was warm so switched heater valve off. Thought had breakthrough as got a lot better with top up that pointed to windshield mounts. But no after a few days back as before. Actually sounds like expansion type noise. It even occasionally does one or 2 creaks when car stops. In last 2 years had windshield replaced so wonder if could be a problem there ? Cannot recreate the noise with all manner of pushing and pulling of dash or glovebox or airvents and windshield in that area. Tried jacking the rear end up in case was chassis but no change, What is maddening is that there are times when for aboiut 20 mins of driving it is gone.... Ideas please ! rg.
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 28 22:12:11 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 00:12:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6ikuZ7tu79Nt+qaSNRPykeDg8gWMtocnxAaJs1ceJRqA@mail.gmail.com>

Bob--

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the
brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.

Best--Michael IOritt

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey
> Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the
> switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would
> do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit
> the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.
> I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put
> LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's
> partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into
> stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.
>
> Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.
>
> Bob
>
> On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> > Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> > I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the
> erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the
> years on other Brit cars.
> > The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> > However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> > I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the
> operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is
> wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch
> is just a back up.
> > Works just fine.
> > rg
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> > Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
> >
> > A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> > Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> > tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> > after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> > make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> > fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> > prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> > quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
> >
> > Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> > machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> > correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> > the leak).
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Bob
> >
> >
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jul 29 05:39:58 2019
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 07:39:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] End Float
Message-ID: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Bj8--disc--front.When I make a slow sharp right turn I get this popping sound in the left front.  I feel quite sure it is associated with the shims (end float)---too many of too few.  I have removed several in an attempt to stop the noise.  I know there is this end float thing but I'm not smart enough to figure this out.Anyone have "simple" instructions on how to achieve it?Any other ideas on what the popping sound could be?Thanstom
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul 29 05:56:55 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 07:56:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] End Float
In-Reply-To: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+yMeTUT3ZfMvpHEpfsGP+nr1=WRQ0FMtpX4hyZXao2sw@mail.gmail.com>

Tom if it's the hubs that you are reffering to there there shouldn't be any
appreciable end float in them.
The design is such that shims are used to reduce the end float to almost
zero when the stub axle nut is fully tightened.
I would be looking for loose spokes. Try swapping wheels side to side.

M

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019, 7:40 AM Tom Felts, <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> Bj8--disc--front.
>
> When I make a slow sharp right turn I get this popping sound in the left
> front.  I feel quite sure it is associated with the shims (end float)---too
> many of too few.  I have removed several in an attempt to stop the noise.
> I know there is this end float thing but I'm not smart enough to figure
> this out.
>
> Anyone have "simple" instructions on how to achieve it?
>
> Any other ideas on what the popping sound could be?
>
> Thans
> tom
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul 29 06:27:46 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 08:27:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] End Float
In-Reply-To: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <00f501d54609$08c38920$1a4a9b60$@rr.com>

"End float" is the distance that the inner race of the outer wheel bearing is moved outboard by the shims.  This allows the wheel to move ("float") that far inboard and outboard.

 

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 7:40 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] End Float

 

Bj8--disc--front.

 

When I make a slow sharp right turn I get this popping sound in the left front.  I feel quite sure it is associated with the shims (end float)---too many of too few.  I have removed several in an attempt to stop the noise.  I know there is this end float thing but I'm not smart enough to figure this out.

 

Anyone have "simple" instructions on how to achieve it?

 

Any other ideas on what the popping sound could be?

 

Thans

tom

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul 29 06:35:50 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 08:35:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6ikuZ7tu79Nt+qaSNRPykeDg8gWMtocnxAaJs1ceJRqA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6ikuZ7tu79Nt+qaSNRPykeDg8gWMtocnxAaJs1ceJRqA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <010101d5460a$29ab09f0$7d011dd0$@rr.com>

I installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several years ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement pressure switches.  My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks (www.watsons-streetworks.com).  Their explanation of the problem with pressure switches is that the contacts do not "wipe" over each other during switch operation and therefore do not clean themselves of oxidation that causes them to fail.  Sounded good to me. 

So far, the mechanical switch has operated perfectly for 13 years and 40,000 miles.  

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

Bob--

 

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.  

 

Best--Michael IOritt

 

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.  
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

Bob

On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 29 06:40:26 2019
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 08:40:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey6 website
Message-ID: <000a01d5460a$cc60f060$6522d120$@verizon.net>

Finally I am up to date with my backlog of entries to my website. It has
been along arduous task initially typing with one finger but I am now
capable of using all 5 fingers of my left hand.

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com> 

Aberdeen, NJ

 

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Jul 29 06:43:59 2019
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 08:43:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <010101d5460a$29ab09f0$7d011dd0$@rr.com>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6ikuZ7tu79Nt+qaSNRPykeDg8gWMtocnxAaJs1ceJRqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <010101d5460a$29ab09f0$7d011dd0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <000f01d5460b$4bc42cf0$e34c86d0$@verizon.net>

I had a switch from Watsons on my third brake light setup and kept the pressure switch as well. You can see wiring, etc. in the My Modifications Section in my site

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com

Aberdeen, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 8:36 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

I installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several years ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement pressure switches.  My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks (www.watsons-streetworks.com <http://www.watsons-streetworks.com> ).  Their explanation of the problem with pressure switches is that the contacts do not "wipe" over each other during switch operation and therefore do not clean themselves of oxidation that causes them to fail.  Sounded good to me. 

So far, the mechanical switch has operated perfectly for 13 years and 40,000 miles.  

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

Bob--

 

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.  

 

Best--Michael IOritt

 

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.  
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

Bob

On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jul 29 06:49:05 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 08:49:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey6 website
In-Reply-To: <000a01d5460a$cc60f060$6522d120$@verizon.net>
References: <000a01d5460a$cc60f060$6522d120$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfZh4g9hdanv75pKQ1zD8mLDKBcER6dA8grqhkE96VfrQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, John.  Just visited a couple of days ago and was reminded what a
valuable resource this is.

Rick Neville

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 8:40 AM ahbn6--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> *Finally I am up to date with my backlog of entries to my website. It has
> been along arduous task initially typing with one finger but I am now
> capable of using all 5 fingers of my left hand.*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com>*
>
> *Aberdeen, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From josef-eckert at t-online.de  Mon Jul 29 06:49:22 2019
From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 14:49:22 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <010101d5460a$29ab09f0$7d011dd0$@rr.com>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6ikuZ7tu79Nt+qaSNRPykeDg8gWMtocnxAaJs1ceJRqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <010101d5460a$29ab09f0$7d011dd0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1564404562398.4291164.85249db28fc5f39ef135e8f606b9bc9af8a7ed6c@spica.telekom.de>

 
A hydraulic pressure switch is changed in 5 minutes. I do not bother with 
tat. It takes much more time to install a mechanical switch and still not 
sure if it works propperly and how long?.
 
Josef Eckert
Germany
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
Datum: 2019-07-29T14:39:07+0200
Von: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
An: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 
 
 

I installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several years 
ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement pressure 
switches.  My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks (
www.watsons-streetworks.com <http://www.watsons-streetworks.com> ).  Their 
explanation of the problem with pressure switches is that the contacts do 
not "wipe" over each other during switch operation and therefore do not 
clean themselves of oxidation that causes them to fail.  Sounded good to 
me.

So far, the mechanical switch has operated perfectly for 13 years and 
40,000 miles. 

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael 
Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

Bob--

 

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the 
brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.  

 

Best--Michael IOritt

 

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

 Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey
 Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the
 switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would
 do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit
 the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights. 
 I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put
 LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's
 partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into
 stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

 Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

 Bob

 On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
 > Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
 > I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the
 erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the
 years on other Brit cars.
 > The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
 > However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
 > I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the
 operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is
 wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch
 is just a back up.
 > Works just fine.
 > rg
 >
 >
 > ----- Original Message -----
 > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >
 > To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
 > Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
 > Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
 >
 > A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
 > Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
 > tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
 > after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
 > make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
 > fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
 > prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
 > quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
 >
 > Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
 > machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
 > correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
 > the leak).
 >
 > TIA,
 >
 > Bob
 >
 >
 >
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
 Suggested annual donation  $12.75

 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
 <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive
 <http://autox.team.net/archive>

 Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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 <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>

 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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?
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul 29 06:54:27 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 08:54:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <000f01d5460b$4bc42cf0$e34c86d0$@verizon.net>
References: <c279aa00-dd41-3126-576c-7f9695a59ae1@comcast.net>
 <321339040.44880918.1564337599141.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <5e1ae689-3694-223a-3d99-ef2c27b931c1@comcast.net>
 <CAPTa0B6ikuZ7tu79Nt+qaSNRPykeDg8gWMtocnxAaJs1ceJRqA@mail.gmail.com>
 <010101d5460a$29ab09f0$7d011dd0$@rr.com>
 <000f01d5460b$4bc42cf0$e34c86d0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <011c01d5460c$c3147f70$493d7e50$@rr.com>

John, when I installed the mechanical switch, the "old" pressure switch was not working.  I left that in place, but routed its wiring to operate the mechanical switch.  I didn't see any reason to buy a new pressure switch that probably wouldn't work very long anyway, and if it failed I wouldn't know it with the mechanical switch in place.

 

Glad to hear you're about back to normal with your hands.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: ahbn6 at verizon.net [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] 
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 8:44 AM
To: 'BJ8Healeys'; 'Healeys'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

I had a switch from Watsons on my third brake light setup and kept the pressure switch as well. You can see wiring, etc. in the My Modifications Section in my site

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com

Aberdeen, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 8:36 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

I installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several years ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement pressure switches.  My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks (www.watsons-streetworks.com).  Their explanation of the problem with pressure switches is that the contacts do not "wipe" over each other during switch operation and therefore do not clean themselves of oxidation that causes them to fail.  Sounded good to me. 

So far, the mechanical switch has operated perfectly for 13 years and 40,000 miles.  

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch

 

Bob--

 

That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on the brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate pressure.  

 

Best--Michael IOritt

 

On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey 
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch.  I bought the 
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would 
do the trick.  My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit 
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights.  
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put 
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's 
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into 
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.

Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.

Bob

On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here).  Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it.  So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmailcom> 

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul 29 07:06:36 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 09:06:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] End Float
In-Reply-To: <00f501d54609$08c38920$1a4a9b60$@rr.com>
References: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <00f501d54609$08c38920$1a4a9b60$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <012701d5460e$75e3fda0$61abf8e0$@rr.com>

There is an error in the NOTE of Paragraph 6 of the wheel bearing adjustment procedures I provided.  "(See Figure 1)" should be "(See Figure 2)".

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 29 08:40:15 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 07:40:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] End Float
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+yMeTUT3ZfMvpHEpfsGP+nr1=WRQ0FMtpX4hyZXao2sw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <CAB3i7L+yMeTUT3ZfMvpHEpfsGP+nr1=WRQ0FMtpX4hyZXao2sw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <bbfe005c-cd54-d71f-941f-37dbd0b58dee@comcast.net>

I think Michael is probably correct; bearings usually make a grinding 
noise when they're worn or broken.

The shop manual has an elaborate process for setting end float on the 
hub involving a dial micrometer and math.? I've had success with 
starting with too few shims--the wheel won't turn at all when the big 
nut is tightened--and stacking them until the wheel turns freely, and 
you can just feel the tiniest of float when you tug on the wheel.? You 
need a few 0.001" shims; the overall stack is usually in the 
neighborhood of 0.030"-0.035".? Do it with just some light oil on the 
bearings at first, then when you've got the stack right load them with 
wheel bearing grease (just on the bearings; don't stuff the whole hub).

Also, torque the snot out of the big nut, and position the hole in the 
end of the axle and the castellated nut such that the cotter pin 
prevents the nut from loosening even a smidge.? I've had the flat washer 
with a tang on the I.D. spin, making the aforementioned grinding noise 
until it wedged itself against the bearing.

Bob


On 7/29/2019 4:56 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Tom if it's the hubs that you are reffering to there there shouldn't 
> be any appreciable end float in them.
> The design is such that shims are used to reduce the end float to 
> almost zero when the stub axle nut is fully tightened.
> I would be looking for loose spokes. Try swapping wheels side to side.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Jul 29, 2019, 7:40 AM Tom Felts, <tomfelts at windstream.net 
> <mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net>> wrote:
>
>     Bj8--disc--front.
>
>     When I make a slow sharp right turn I get this popping sound in
>     the left front.? I feel quite sure it is associated with the shims
>     (end float)---too many of too few.? I have removed several in an
>     attempt to stop the noise.? I know there is this end float thing
>     but I'm not smart enough to figure this out.
>
>     Anyone have "simple" instructions on how to achieve it?
>
>     Any other ideas on what the popping sound could be?
>
>     Thans
>     tom
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 29 10:28:45 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 12:28:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7FaXks_tgf8eA1-sQsabJyKHkW57TVwCcL5DBzcjNhPA@mail.gmail.com>

I got serious with the car this morning and after loosening the locking nut
I shortened the rod's effective length by about 1/2", then locked
everything down and went out for another test drive.  I drove about 15-20
miles using the brakes from normally to hard, including several
just-short-of-emergency stops from about 60 mph to 0.  Despite all this,
and with the engine at 180-190 on another pretty hot day the brake pedal is
staying where it should and everything seems fine.

There is now about 3/4"-1" of free travel after which the brakes gradually
engage and the pedal is about where it was before I first adjusted things a
few months back.  Why my shortening of the pedal's travel did not present a
problem at the time I did it is a bit baffling and I can only think that
lower ambient temperatures must have played a role.  In any case things
seem back to normal, though I do plan to replace the heat-shield that i
removed when I first fiddled with things.

Thanks everyone for their patience and suggestions.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Jul 29 10:34:15 2019
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 10:34:15 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7FaXks_tgf8eA1-sQsabJyKHkW57TVwCcL5DBzcjNhPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7FaXks_tgf8eA1-sQsabJyKHkW57TVwCcL5DBzcjNhPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <27ed47a3-787b-06ae-0347-df90a498356c@porterscustom.com>

....now that that is sorta settled.. did you look closely to see if the 
clevis pin is still round or something akin to a crankshaft in appearance..?

On 7/29/2019 10:28 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> I got serious with the car this morning and after loosening the 
> locking nut I shortened the rod's effective length by about 1/2", then 
> locked everything down and went out for another test drive.? I drove 
> about 15-20 miles using the brakes from normally to hard, including 
> several just-short-of-emergency stops from about 60 mph to 0. Despite 
> all this, and with the engine at 180-190 on another pretty hot day the 
> brake pedal is staying where it should and everything seems fine.
>
> There is now about 3/4"-1" of free travel after which the brakes 
> gradually engage and the pedal is about where it was before I first 
> adjusted things a few months back. Why my shortening of the pedal's 
> travel did not present a problem at the time I did it is a bit 
> baffling and I can only think that lower ambient temperatures must 
> have played a role.? In any case things seem back to normal, though I 
> do plan to replace the heat-shield that i removed when I first fiddled 
> with things.
>
> Thanks everyone for their patience and suggestions.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 29 13:51:54 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 15:51:54 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <27ed47a3-787b-06ae-0347-df90a498356c@porterscustom.com>
References: <CAPTa0B7FaXks_tgf8eA1-sQsabJyKHkW57TVwCcL5DBzcjNhPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <27ed47a3-787b-06ae-0347-df90a498356c@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4EMH2MsBg4BDCTEbn1+X7Xp-2Ly-KqO3owaF3mmXDF1A@mail.gmail.com>

Yes Dave, it is still round.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 12:34 PM David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:

> ....now that that is sorta settled.. did you look closely to see if the
> clevis pin is still round or something akin to a crankshaft in appearance..?
> On 7/29/2019 10:28 AM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> I got serious with the car this morning and after loosening the locking
> nut I shortened the rod's effective length by about 1/2", then locked
> everything down and went out for another test drive.  I drove about 15-20
> miles using the brakes from normally to hard, including several
> just-short-of-emergency stops from about 60 mph to 0.  Despite all this,
> and with the engine at 180-190 on another pretty hot day the brake pedal is
> staying where it should and everything seems fine.
>
> There is now about 3/4"-1" of free travel after which the brakes gradually
> engage and the pedal is about where it was before I first adjusted things a
> few months back.  Why my shortening of the pedal's travel did not present
> a problem at the time I did it is a bit baffling and I can only think that
> lower ambient temperatures must have played a role.  In any case things
> seem back to normal, though I do plan to replace the heat-shield that i
> removed when I first fiddled with things.
>
> Thanks everyone for their patience and suggestions.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 29 17:18:55 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 16:18:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 65 Sprite
Message-ID: <CABXhz89GzQ+7hzFFSHqxhJj=C2HxoBMCu3YksnVgpLpVTsCPeQ@mail.gmail.com>

Just rolled home with my 65 Sprite in tow.
I need to sort out the hydraulics and awaken the engine from its 25 year
nap. Will provide updates.
Cheers

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Mon Jul 29 17:20:05 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 19:20:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] End Float
In-Reply-To: <012701d5460e$75e3fda0$61abf8e0$@rr.com>
References: <78535057.60929513.1564400398271.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <00f501d54609$08c38920$1a4a9b60$@rr.com>
 <012701d5460e$75e3fda0$61abf8e0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZf5HLuDg8N9Fe-rnVVPU3NrfPfnvid3xnzJEzYywAj7iA@mail.gmail.com>

I've found John Twist's video on MGB bearings helpful although Healeys
specify 0 end float:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJYIXZtnIiw

Rick Neville

On Mon, Jul 29, 2019 at 9:06 AM BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:

> There is an error in the NOTE of Paragraph 6 of the wheel bearing
> adjustment procedures I provided.  "(See Figure 1)" should be "(See Figure
> 2)".
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Jul 29 20:00:41 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Mon, 29 Jul 2019 19:00:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] 65 Sprite
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89GzQ+7hzFFSHqxhJj=C2HxoBMCu3YksnVgpLpVTsCPeQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.36.1564452038.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

A real glutton for punishment.Mike MSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> Date: 7/29/19  4:18 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net> Subject: [Healeys] 65 Sprite Just rolled home with my 65 Sprite in tow.I need to sort out the hydraulics and awaken the engine from its 25 year nap. Will provide updates.CheersIra ErbsPortland, ORtypos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From kentmclean at comcast.net  Tue Jul 30 04:32:26 2019
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 06:32:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey 1000/4
Message-ID: <2269F049-E903-41D0-BAC2-531C6572E98E@comcast.net>

No, that?s not a typo.  This month?s Rider magazine had an article about the Healey 1000/4 motorcycle. The Healey in this case was the brothers George and Tim. What a disappointment. The brothers used an Ariel Square Four 1000 cc engine, hence the Healey 1000/4 designation. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Healey_1000/4 <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Healey_1000/4>

-
Kent McLean
?56 100 BN2

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From einhornlawoffice at gmail.com  Tue Jul 30 11:51:29 2019
From: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com (Jonathan Einhorn)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 13:51:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
Message-ID: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone know the difference between real Minilite wheels and the
imitation ones offered by Moss? I'm told they weigh about the same: any
real differences such that I should have the real thing on my racecar?

thanks
jon

-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
129 Whitney Avenue
New Haven, CT. 06510
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul 30 12:15:31 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 14:15:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
In-Reply-To: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.37.1564510537.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

Jon 
If your comparison is Minilite vs Panasport, my opinion (which is worthless), is that they are both race proven wheels. Bang a curb and you can break either of them. Do they run true, as good as most aluminum wheels and much better than wires. Cost, I?ll leave that up to you. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Jonathan Einhorn
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2019 1:52 PM
To: healey list; Michael Oritt
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels

Does anyone know the difference between real Minilite wheels and the imitation ones offered by Moss? I'm told they weigh about the same: any real differences such that I should have the real thing on my racecar?

thanks
jon



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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Jul 30 13:21:04 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 21:21:04 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
In-Reply-To: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <473cafee-9bb5-499e-ab4c-170dc560eae8@chello.nl>

Genuine Minilites are far better finished and have the Minilite trademark.

They are fairly expensive.

The others are probably Panasport, VTO, JBW or Maxilite but there are 
others that are similar or? identical to those. I presume they are made 
in China, Taiwan, Indonesia, Thailand, Turkey or any other cheap labor 
country, perhaps by one and the same manufacturer.

Kees Oudesluijs




Op 30-7-2019 om 19:51 schreef Jonathan Einhorn:
> Does anyone know the difference between real Minilite wheels and the 
> imitation ones offered by Moss? I'm told they weigh about the same: 
> any real differences such that I should have the real thing on my 
> racecar?
>
> thanks
> jon
>
> -- 
> Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
> Attorney & Counselor at Law
> 129 Whitney Avenue
> New Haven, CT. 06510
> tel: 203-777-3777
> einhornlawoffice at gmail.com <mailto:einhornlawoffice at gmail.com>
> fax: 203-782-1721
> cell: 203-623-7373
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Jul 30 15:27:46 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 14:27:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Handle Done!
Message-ID: <mailman.38.1564522074.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

OK, finally got the emergency brake handle back from the machine shop.? They milled the two welds that held shaft to the brake lever and re-welded it 90 degrees to reposition the key.? Now the cable arm is oriented towards the rear of the car like it should, so when you pull the handle up it pulls the cable to actuate the brakes.??? ? ?To sum it up, when converting a left side of the hump handle (like in a Bugeye) to a right side of the hump type, you have to get the correct ratchet plate, then bend the pushrod wire 90 degrees to the opposite side of the lever when viewing from the back.? Flip the pawl over so it works correctly with the new ratchet plate, then get a machine shop to remove the shaft from the lever that passes through the ratchet plate and re-weld it after turning it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Then Bob's your uncle.? See the before and after pictures.? I only went through this exercise because the lever had already been re-chromed.? On to the next project that will be more expensive and involved than it looks.? This car is going to take longer than I thought.Mike MacLeanSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Jul 30 16:24:14 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 22:24:14 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
In-Reply-To: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <109338851.21878.1564525454035@mail.yahoo.com>

Bought Compomotive brand around 1990 for my BN7 which I no longer own.? Not sure the brand still exists.? The wheels came from England and I seem to call they were manufactured there too.? Have no specs on them but they were quite satisfactory.
Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice at gmail.com>
To: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>; Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 30, 2019 1:52 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels

Does anyone know the difference between real Minilite wheels and the imitation ones offered by Moss? I'm told they weigh about the same: any real differences such that I should have the real thing on my racecar?
thanksjon

-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
129 Whitney Avenue
New Haven, CT. 06510
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Tue Jul 30 16:31:34 2019
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 08:31:34 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
In-Reply-To: <109338851.21878.1564525454035@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
 <109338851.21878.1564525454035@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0b07f0$5ojm17@icp-osb-irony-out7.iinet.net.au>

...there?s also Superlite here in Oz. Used to be made in OZ but I?m not sure they still are as the website says rather cryptically: 

?Historically comprising a manufacturing plant in Adelaide, South Australia, and company owned branches across mainland Australia?

https://www.performancewheels.com.au/product/superlite-15/

Peter

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Keith Pennell via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 31 July 2019 8:25 AM
To: einhornlawoffice at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net; michael.oritt at gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Minilite wheels

Bought Compomotive brand around 1990 for my BN7 which I no longer own.? Not sure the brand still exists.? The wheels came from England and I seem to call they were manufactured there too.? Have no specs on them but they were quite satisfactory.

Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Einhorn <einhornlawoffice at gmail.com>
To: healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>; Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Jul 30, 2019 1:52 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
Does anyone know the difference between real Minilite wheels and the imitation ones offered by Moss? I'm told they weigh about the same: any real differences such that I should have the real thing on my racecar? 

thanks
jon


-- 
Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
Attorney & Counselor at Law
129 Whitney Avenue
New Haven, CT. 06510
tel: 203-777-3777
einhornlawoffice at gmail.com
fax: 203-782-1721
cell: 203-623-7373
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Jul 30 16:36:29 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 22:36:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks for sale
References: <2118210264.27377.1564526189699.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2118210264.27377.1564526189699@mail.yahoo.com>

I have done further investigation and Apple Hydraulics tells me that the 6076 is a fit for the 100-4, 100-6, BT7, BN7, BJ7 and phase I BJ8.? In other words all but the phase II BJ8.? RH and LH but no links.? These are rebuilt not new.? $180 as is for the pair incl shipping and packaging.? Call if Qs
Keith757-877-3119

-----Original Message-----
From: Keith Pennell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 2, 2019 3:00 pm
Subject: [Healeys] Rear shocks for sale

Hello listers,
Have a pair of rebuilt rear shocks for sale.? NOT FOR BIG HEALEY.? Not sure of the application but Moss lists them for '62-'80 MGB.? May also apply to other Brit cars such as Midget, Sprite, TR etc.? Part numbers are 6076 LH and 6076 RH so check your numbers.? Includes both new links too.? $200 for all including shipping to lower 48.? First $200 wins 'em!!!
Keithllennep at verizon.net
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From cfrazer at uoregon.edu  Tue Jul 30 16:54:45 2019
From: cfrazer at uoregon.edu (Charlie Frazer)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 15:54:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Minilite wheels
In-Reply-To: <473cafee-9bb5-499e-ab4c-170dc560eae8@chello.nl>
References: <CADqHe-3HLCyUFUtyCJt9kd7dBBNbFUOqsZU_F9GreFdO-kwErg@mail.gmail.com>
 <473cafee-9bb5-499e-ab4c-170dc560eae8@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <11794928-65B5-4DC6-BDEC-180928DE8502@uoregon.edu>

Does anyone know a source for 60?s era Minilite lug nuts and center caps?
Thanks for any leads
Charlie Frazer

On Jul 30, 2019, at 12:21 PM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

Genuine Minilites are far better finished and have the Minilite trademark.  

They are fairly expensive.

The others are probably Panasport, VTO, JBW or Maxilite but there are others that are similar or  identical to those. I presume they are made in China, Taiwan, Indonesia, Thailand, Turkey or any other cheap labor country, perhaps by one and the same manufacturer.

Kees Oudesluijs







Op 30-7-2019 om 19:51 schreef Jonathan Einhorn:
> Does anyone know the difference between real Minilite wheels and the imitation ones offered by Moss? I'm told they weigh about the same: any real differences such that I should have the real thing on my racecar?
> 
> thanks
> jon
> 
> -- 
> Jonathan J. Einhorn, Esq.
> Attorney & Counselor at Law
> 129 Whitney Avenue
> New Haven, CT. 06510
> tel: 203-777-3777
> einhornlawoffice at gmail.com <mailto:einhornlawoffice at gmail.com>
> fax: 203-782-1721
> cell: 203-623-7373
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> 

 <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>	Virusvrij. www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> <x-msg://7/#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>_______________________________________________
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From schottc at knology.net  Tue Jul 30 18:06:03 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 20:06:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com>
 <f11e9d13-710c-5a19-5d87-d4921118305f@comcast.net>
 <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <156190608.11137802.1564531563630.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Bob, 

Do you still have your stock accumulator? I'm interested in it. Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 

----- Original Message -----

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com> 
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net>, healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 4:05:09 PM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news 

The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduced bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. These o-rings deteriorate with time, heat, and use and then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the pressure that can be developed. 

To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulator in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-rings can be replaced. 

Bill Lawrence 
BN1 #554 


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news 


Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating. I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it. Or some combination of the three. If you end up replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation. 


Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated. If you have good pressure that rules out the pump. If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings. 

I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing). 


Bob 

ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost. 


On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote: 





Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as these were original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt. 



Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news . But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before. The bad news . It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator. 



I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom. 



WD 67 BJ8 








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Suggested annual donation $12.75 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul 30 18:20:04 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 20:20:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
In-Reply-To: <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com>
 <f11e9d13-710c-5a19-5d87-d4921118305f@comcast.net>
 <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKNSNvJAQ0QNPEHJw2O2VQE-oy5WeZDLNYx-CAe6mqxWA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bill,
The accumulators in all Austin Healeys actually have cast iron piston
rings, not "O" rings.
There are "O" rings between the accumulator cylinder and the overdrive body
but they seldom give problems.
The overdrive piston, rings and aluminium bore frequently become badly
scored and require replacement.

M


On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 5:05 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a
> reduced bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore
> sleeve or liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the
> accumulator bore. These o-rings deteriorate with time, heat, and use and
> then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the
> pressure that can be developed.
>
> To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the
> accumulator in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and
> pressurize the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out
> so the o-rings can be replaced.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell
> <bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
>
>
> Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator.  My guess would be
> the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was
> scored a little from the metal rings on the piston.  The actuating pistons
> have rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure to
> override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's
> not operating.  I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ,
> but I've not done it.  Or some combination of the three.  If you end up
> replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like
> crisp activation.
>
> Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at
> speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the
> actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when
> activated.  If you have good pressure that rules out the pump.  If you got
> the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a
> crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings.
>
> I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to
> override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended
> to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's
> entirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a
> 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing).
>
> Bob
>
> ps.  My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you
> want it I'll let it go for shipping cost.
>
>
> On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:
>
> Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed
> tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some
> hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch
> as these were original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it
> prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout
> of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years.
> Before that used ND 30wt.
>
>
>
> Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. *The good news**.* But it takes a
> loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually?
> it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before.* The bad
> news*. It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly,
> blip accelerator.
>
>
>
> I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am
> hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom.
>
>
>
> WD     67 BJ8
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Jul 30 20:49:31 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 02:49:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKNSNvJAQ0QNPEHJw2O2VQE-oy5WeZDLNYx-CAe6mqxWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com>
 <f11e9d13-710c-5a19-5d87-d4921118305f@comcast.net>
 <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LKNSNvJAQ0QNPEHJw2O2VQE-oy5WeZDLNYx-CAe6mqxWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <MWHPR07MB2878BB42CEB8DCA90C6FD2ABA5DF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Mike,

Yes, I was talking about the O-rings between the housing and the  accumulator sleeve. They are rubber and do indeed break down and fail with heat, age and pressure. When they leak you lose operating pressure in the accumulator. When mine failed the OD would work fine until the oil warmed up and then the OD would drop out. Dave Porter gave me the diagnosis and explained how to correct it and my OD has been perfect since. (Knock wood.)

Bill Lawrence
BN1#554
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 12:20 AM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news

Hi Bill,
The accumulators in all Austin Healeys actually have cast iron piston rings, not "O" rings.
There are "O" rings between the accumulator cylinder and the overdrive body but they seldom give problems.
The overdrive piston, rings and aluminium bore frequently become badly scored and require replacement.

M


On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 5:05 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduced bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. These o-rings deteriorate with time, heat, and use and then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the pressure that can be developed.

To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulator in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-rings can be replaced.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news


Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator.  My guess would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston.  The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating.  I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it.  Or some combination of the three.  If you end up replacing the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation.

Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated.  If you have good pressure that rules out the pump.  If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings.

I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing).

Bob

ps.  My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost.


On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:

Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as these were original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt.



Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news. But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before. The bad news. It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator.



I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom.



WD     67 BJ8






_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Jul 31 08:45:25 2019
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 08:45:25 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKNSNvJAQ0QNPEHJw2O2VQE-oy5WeZDLNYx-CAe6mqxWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com>
 <f11e9d13-710c-5a19-5d87-d4921118305f@comcast.net>
 <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LKNSNvJAQ0QNPEHJw2O2VQE-oy5WeZDLNYx-CAe6mqxWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1355312888.55821348.1564584325044.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Replacement accumulators for type A OD's are availble, with slightly different ID, and pistons with modern style O rings. Same OD.
This upgrade makes sense to me if you are replacing the accumulator.rg
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 18:20:04 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news

Hi Bill, 
The accumulators in all Austin Healeys actually have cast iron piston rings, not "O" rings. 
There are "O" rings between the accumulator cylinder and the overdrive body but they seldom give problems.The overdrive piston, rings and aluminium bore frequently become badly scored and require replacement.
M


On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 5:05 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduced bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. These o-rings deteriorate with time,
 heat, and use and then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the pressure that can be developed. 

To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulator in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-rings can be replaced.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM
To:healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator.  My guess would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston.  The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may
 not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating.  I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it.  Or some combination of the three.  If you end up replacing
 the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation.
Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated.  If you have good pressure that
 rules out the pump.  If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings.I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the
 OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing).
Bobps.  My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost.
On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote:
Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as these were
 original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt. Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news. But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before.The bad news. It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator. I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom. WD     67 BJ8  


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From schottc at knology.net  Wed Jul 31 08:54:45 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 10:54:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news
In-Reply-To: <1355312888.55821348.1564584325044.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <5d1772f3.1c69fb81.444c.4651@mx.google.com>
 <f11e9d13-710c-5a19-5d87-d4921118305f@comcast.net>
 <MWHPR07MB2878E27994175E0664ECC61AA5FF0@MWHPR07MB2878.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LKNSNvJAQ0QNPEHJw2O2VQE-oy5WeZDLNYx-CAe6mqxWA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1355312888.55821348.1564584325044.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <1363563590.11825691.1564584885151.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Roger, 

Where can I get the upgraded accumulator? Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Roger Grace" <roggrace at telus.net> 
To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2019 9:45:25 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news 

Replacement accumulators for type A OD's are availble, with slightly different ID, and pistons with modern style O rings. Same OD. 
This upgrade makes sense to me if you are replacing the accumulator. 
rg 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tue, 30 Jul 2019 18:20:04 -0600 (MDT) 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news 

Hi Bill, 
The accumulators in all Austin Healeys actually have cast iron piston rings, not "O" rings. 
There are "O" rings between the accumulator cylinder and the overdrive body but they seldom give problems. 
The overdrive piston, rings and aluminium bore frequently become badly scored and require replacement. 

M 


On Sat, Jun 29, 2019 at 5:05 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE < ynotink at msn.com > wrote: 




The accumulator in the overdrives installed in Austin Healeys have a reduced bore size to moderate the force of the shift into OD. The bore sleeve or liner has rubber o-rings that seal the pressure in the accumulator bore. These o-rings deteriorate with time, 
heat, and use and then they allow oil to leak past the accumulator piston thus reducing the pressure that can be developed. 


To replace them you need to remove the side plate that holds the accumulator in place, place a dowel in the piston to hold it in place and pressurize the OD from the actuator port valve thus forcing the sleeve out so the o-rings can be replaced. 


Bill Lawrence 

BN1 #554 


From: Healeys < healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > on behalf of Bob Spidell < bspidell at comcast.net > 
Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2019 3:40 PM 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD Good news Bad news 


Either the pump, actuating pistons or the accumulator. My guess would be the accumulator; mine still worked at 200K miles, but the cylinder was scored a little from the metal rings on the piston. The actuating pistons have rubber O-rings that wear so may 
not provide enough pressure to override the heavy springs that keep the OD a 'single shaft' when the it's not operating. I believe the accumulator and pump can be replaced in situ, but I've not done it. Or some combination of the three. If you end up replacing 
the accumulator I recommend the DWM 'uprated' one if you like crisp activation. 


Check: 1) pressure at the actuating valve port (should be over 400psi at speed, but I think it'll work as low as 350--not sure), 2) that the actuating shaft rises the correct distance--I believe it's 1/32"--when activated. If you have good pressure that 
rules out the pump. If you got the DWM accumulator, and it wasn't the problem, at least you'll have a crisper OD when after you tear into it to replace the O-rings. 

I'm not surprised it disengages quickly; all the hydraulics are there to override the 8 heavy springs; the springs shouldn't fail (it's recommended to replace them if you do a complete rebuild, though I'm not convinced it's entirely necessary unless the 
OD was slipping when engaged; I think it's a 'might as well while it's on the bench' thing). 


Bob 

ps. My stock accumulator still worked normally, and I kept it; if you want it I'll let it go for shipping cost. 


On 6/29/2019 7:20 AM, Warren wrote: 

<blockquote>



Recently had the OD quit working. First time in 52 yrs. Luck? Removed tunnel and checked electrics and switches and solenoid seemed to work. Some hesitancy with solenoid at first. Replaced solenoid and interrupter switch as these were 
original parts and with close to 200K on the car thought it prudent to do so. Tranny oil topped off regularly and drained and cleanout of screen and magnets every two years. Using Redline MT90 for many years. Before that used ND 30wt. 



Now I got it to go into OD. Every time. The good news . But it takes a loooong time. Many seconds. Just flip the switch at speed and ?eventually? it slowly slides into OD. Not crisp and instant like before. The bad news . It disengages normally as before. Flip, depress clutch slightly, blip accelerator. 



I?ve researched the archives as much as possible on all the forums but am hesitant to proceed without forum\list wisdom. 



WD 67 BJ8 









_______________________________________________ 

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 

Suggested annual donation $12.75 


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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</blockquote>




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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Wed Jul 31 09:18:43 2019
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 11:18:43 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey sighting
Message-ID: <025701d547b3$447739c0$cd65ad40$@rr.com>

Hello, Healeyphiles -

 

I was watching "Experiment in Terror" (1962) on TCM Monday night when the
bad guy (a really bad dude, ably played by Ross Martin) abducted his
victim's sister as a hostage and drove her off in a pre-BJ8 3000.  At least,
her experience wasn't all bad.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

 

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From sneddon at xsmail.com  Wed Jul 31 09:54:36 2019
From: sneddon at xsmail.com (Andy Sneddon)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 16:54:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Frame Bracket Screws
Message-ID: <6D73BB19-7DC4-4678-8F1E-76EAA47E8E1B@xsmail.com>

On my BT7 windscreen frame (and I am sure it is probably the same on all models), there is a small bracket at each corner, holding the frame together.? 

 

Each bracket is secured by 4 small screws, 2 on each frame rail. The ones I removed are flat topped, countersunk, Philips. 

 

Does anyone know the thread size for these.?? (yes I had to drill out a couple and may need to rethread ? the brackets are OK and will be fine after a clean)

 

Thanks

 

Andy

 

 

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 31 11:14:14 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 10:14:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cali 1963 YOM plates
Message-ID: <CABXhz88r55aDXFB5K0NYTbeVUP+S3APCcwkXxgMQ2T18_7nuSw@mail.gmail.com>

I have a pair of yellow lettered black original plates for sale
$200 obo before I list on ebay.
Let me know if interested or want more photos

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From ah53 at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 31 11:32:40 2019
From: ah53 at yahoo.com (null) (null)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 13:32:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Windscreen Frame Bracket Screw
In-Reply-To: <6D73BB19-7DC4-4678-8F1E-76EAA47E8E1B@xsmail.com>
References: <6D73BB19-7DC4-4678-8F1E-76EAA47E8E1B@xsmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA11FE20-0B09-4762-A6AC-FD2F020A05F5@yahoo.com>

I pretty sure. British Car Specialist has them and can tell you the size. 

Joe

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 31, 2019, at 11:54 AM, Andy Sneddon <sneddon at xsmail.com> wrote:
> 
> On my BT7 windscreen frame (and I am sure it is probably the same on all models), there is a small bracket at each corner, holding the frame together. 
>  
> Each bracket is secured by 4 small screws, 2 on each frame rail. The ones I removed are flat topped, countersunk, Philips.
>  
> Does anyone know the thread size for these.   (yes I had to drill out a couple and may need to rethread ? the brackets are OK and will be fine after a clean)
>  
> Thanks
>  
> Andy
>  
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah53 at yahoo.com
> 
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul 31 13:22:47 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 19:22:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Cali 1963 YOM plates
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88r55aDXFB5K0NYTbeVUP+S3APCcwkXxgMQ2T18_7nuSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88r55aDXFB5K0NYTbeVUP+S3APCcwkXxgMQ2T18_7nuSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2073722686.431007.1564600968217@mail.yahoo.com>

 Plates issued to my Bugeye in 1960.? Restored and still on the car today.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, July 31, 2019, 11:15:42 AM PDT, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I have a pair of yellow lettered black original plates for sale$200?obo before I list on ebay.?Let me know if interested or want more photos

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net

  
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Jul 31 15:03:33 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 17:03:33 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump leak
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B72T5UKwERAOPtvLdDUtEpHVb6iCqAH=yLfiEXNvkN=5g@mail.gmail.com>

I almost hesitate to post about another problem but here goes:

Yesterday while almost done with a long ride to make sure that the brakes
were okay (they were) I got a spatter of oily drops on the windshield and
when I popped the bonnet i found a pretty liberal spray of oil across its
underside, just above the fan.  This morning after cleaning everything off
I put the car up on jack stands and ran the engine at about 2K to see if I
could find the source.

There is a slow but steady leak--perhaps a drop every three or four
seconds--coming off of the back face of the water pump pulley, which leaks
onto the fan belt and gets tossed across the engine compartment.  The
strange thing is that it does not seem like engine oil as it is brown in
color and has a definite bittersweet taste--nothing at all like the color
or taste of the engine oil.  It is sticky and looks almost like Permatex
Indian Head Gasket Shellac.

There is a grease nipple on the water pump and though I know I lubed it
when I last changed the water pump that was some time ago.  I am not
certain about the color of the grease but am thinking it was either red or
blue.

There is no oil in the water nor any water in the oil.
The leak is not coming out of the weep hole in the water pump.
The leak does not seem like oil that is emulsified--it really seems like
shellac but that makes no sense to me.

Any thoughts will be appreciated.

Best--Michael Oritt (BN1)
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From rcobb at sonic.net  Wed Jul 31 15:14:36 2019
From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 14:14:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CA license plates
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2977.1564600978.2437.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2977.1564600978.2437.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ffdba333-010c-af97-c3fb-d5983e5020c8@sonic.net>

Michael,

Your Bugeye looks good (at least what I can see of it).

As I recall, this is what happened, during that time period, with CA 
license plates:

The yellow, with black letters/numbers plates were issued in 1956, 
replacing all plates that were currently in use.? Each subsequent year, 
a metal tab (and then a decal) was applied to the top right corner of 
the rear plate, to indicate current registration.

The black, with yellow letters/numbers plates were issued in 1963, 
replacing all prior plates.? Decals applied to the right top corner of 
the rear plate kept it current. These plates are still legal (all YOM 
issues aside) if they are on the originally-registered vehicle and it 
has been continuously registered.

Each of the above plates were formatted with a combination of 3 letters 
(starting with AAA), followed by 3 numbers (starting with 000).

About 1970, due to running out of the 3-letter/3-number permutations, 
blue with yellow letters/numbers began to be issued.? They supplemented, 
but didn't directly replace the black with yellow plates.? They had a 
reversed format: 3 numbers/3 letters.? This format ran until 1980.

So, getting back to the '60 Bugeye, with black background and yellow 
letters/numbers, the PMG... plate would have been issued perhaps around 
1966/7, when it was registered and received that plate, assuming it is 
the plate that was issued to that car originally.? I recall that I had a 
newly-registered car in April, 1969 and it was assigned a ZFY... plate.

Bob

> Today's Topics:
>
>     1. Re: Cali 1963 YOM plates (Michael MacLean)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 19:22:47 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>, i erbs
> 	<eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cali 1963 YOM plates
> Message-ID: <2073722686.431007.1564600968217 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
>   Plates issued to my Bugeye in 1960.? Restored and still on the car today.Mike MacLean
>
>      On Wednesday, July 31, 2019, 11:15:42 AM PDT, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>   
>   I have a pair of yellow lettered black original plates for sale$200?obo before I list on ebay.?Let me know if interested or want more photos
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
>
>    
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> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 242
> ****************************************
>
>

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 31 15:15:57 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 14:15:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump leak
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B72T5UKwERAOPtvLdDUtEpHVb6iCqAH=yLfiEXNvkN=5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B72T5UKwERAOPtvLdDUtEpHVb6iCqAH=yLfiEXNvkN=5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89KYM1Be30tpvUp6-H57_xfRDdN4UNoVMZrAnkj1FP-YQ@mail.gmail.com>

the seal is going away. Time to replace it before it fails completely
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Wed, Jul 31, 2019 at 2:04 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I almost hesitate to post about another problem but here goes:
>
> Yesterday while almost done with a long ride to make sure that the brakes
> were okay (they were) I got a spatter of oily drops on the windshield and
> when I popped the bonnet i found a pretty liberal spray of oil across its
> underside, just above the fan.  This morning after cleaning everything off
> I put the car up on jack stands and ran the engine at about 2K to see if I
> could find the source.
>
> There is a slow but steady leak--perhaps a drop every three or four
> seconds--coming off of the back face of the water pump pulley, which leaks
> onto the fan belt and gets tossed across the engine compartment.  The
> strange thing is that it does not seem like engine oil as it is brown in
> color and has a definite bittersweet taste--nothing at all like the color
> or taste of the engine oil.  It is sticky and looks almost like Permatex
> Indian Head Gasket Shellac.
>
> There is a grease nipple on the water pump and though I know I lubed it
> when I last changed the water pump that was some time ago.  I am not
> certain about the color of the grease but am thinking it was either red or
> blue.
>
> There is no oil in the water nor any water in the oil.
> The leak is not coming out of the weep hole in the water pump.
> The leak does not seem like oil that is emulsified--it really seems like
> shellac but that makes no sense to me.
>
> Any thoughts will be appreciated.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (BN1)
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Jul 31 15:18:08 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 23:18:08 +0200
Subject: [Healeys] Water pump leak
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B72T5UKwERAOPtvLdDUtEpHVb6iCqAH=yLfiEXNvkN=5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B72T5UKwERAOPtvLdDUtEpHVb6iCqAH=yLfiEXNvkN=5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <43eb0310-3360-a01f-133d-8208f52f3f3f@chello.nl>

Did you ever grease the pump after it was fitted? Should be done 
periodically. At least every year

Did you ever change the coolant? At least every two to three years. 
Sounds a bit like stale coolant to me.

Kees Oudesluijs




Op 31-7-2019 om 23:03 schreef Michael Oritt:
> I almost hesitate to post about another problem but here goes:
>
> Yesterday while almost done with a long ride to make sure that the 
> brakes were okay (they were) I got a spatter of oily drops on the 
> windshield and when I popped the bonnet i found a pretty liberal spray 
> of oil across its underside, just above the fan.? This morning after 
> cleaning everything off I put the car up on jack stands and ran the 
> engine at about 2K to see if I could find the source.
>
> There is a slow but steady leak--perhaps a drop every three or four 
> seconds--coming off of the back face of the water pump pulley, which 
> leaks onto the fan belt and gets tossed across the engine 
> compartment.? The strange thing is that it does not seem like engine 
> oil as it is brown in color and has a definite bittersweet 
> taste--nothing at all like the color or taste of the engine oil.? It 
> is sticky and looks almost like Permatex Indian Head Gasket Shellac.
>
> There is a grease nipple on the water pump and though I know I lubed 
> it when I last changed the water pump that was some time ago.? I am 
> not certain about the color of the grease but am thinking it was 
> either red or blue.
>
> There is no oil in the water nor any water in the oil.
> The leak is not coming out of the weep hole in the water pump.
> The leak does not seem like oil that is emulsified--it really seems 
> like shellac but that makes no sense to me.
>
> Any thoughts will be appreciated.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt (BN1)
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>


---
Deze e-mail is gecontroleerd op virussen door AVG.
http://www.avg.com
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 31 15:21:58 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 14:21:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] spin on oil adapter 1098 Sprite
Message-ID: <CABXhz89DWXMJLXb_b4zgbMhRBkmBbHuce0fFQsV8hvBE+2NvMA@mail.gmail.com>

anyone have a source for a spin on adapter?
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From sgerow2 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 31 15:54:42 2019
From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 14:54:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Cali 1963 YOM plates
Message-ID: <CA+myF4qjMn2_R=tXu6TpcqBCurWLj=z9JgfNqmV5NV8Z1DMW4A@mail.gmail.com>

California black plates were issued 1963 - 69. A yellow plate with black
letters would be correct for a 1960 Sprite. They ran from 1956 - 62.

Plenty of documentation for this online.

-- 

*Steve Gerow*
BN6
Altadena, CA
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Jul 31 18:30:13 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (rrengineer.mike)
Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 17:30:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] CA license plates
In-Reply-To: <ffdba333-010c-af97-c3fb-d5983e5020c8@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.39.1564619408.2434.healeys@autox.team.net>

The black plate on my Bugeye was on the last pink slip issued to the car in 1976.? That was the last year it was on the road before I finished the restoration in 2000.? The DMV let me keep this plate because it was issued to my car.? Besides, it looks good against the old English white paint.? I will be looking for a set of 1956 (yellow with black letters) year of manufacture plates for the 1956 BN2 I am restoring now.Mike MSent from my Samsung Galaxy , an AT&T LTE smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: RCobb <rcobb at sonic.net> Date: 7/31/19  2:14 PM  (GMT-07:00) To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] CA license plates Michael,Your Bugeye looks good (at least what I can see of it).As I recall, this is what happened, during that time period, with CA license plates:The yellow, with black letters/numbers plates were issued in 1956, replacing all plates that were currently in use.? Each subsequent year, a metal tab (and then a decal) was applied to the top right corner of the rear plate, to indicate current registration.The black, with yellow letters/numbers plates were issued in 1963, replacing all prior plates.? Decals applied to the right top corner of the rear plate kept it current. These plates are still legal (all YOM issues aside) if they are on the originally-registered vehicle and it has been continuously registered.Each of the above plates were formatted with a combination of 3 letters (starting with AAA), followed by 3 numbers (starting with 000).About 1970, due to running out of the 3-letter/3-number permutations, blue with yellow letters/numbers began to be issued.? They supplemented, but didn't directly replace the black with yellow plates.? They had a reversed format: 3 numbers/3 letters.? This format ran until 1980.So, getting back to the '60 Bugeye, with black background and yellow letters/numbers, the PMG... plate would have been issued perhaps around 1966/7, when it was registered and received that plate, assuming it is the plate that was issued to that car originally.? I recall that I had a newly-registered car in April, 1969 and it was assigned a ZFY... plate.Bob> Today's Topics:>>???? 1. Re: Cali 1963 YOM plates (Michael MacLean)>>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------->> Message: 1> Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2019 19:22:47 +0000 (UTC)> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>, i erbs> 	<eyera3000 at gmail.com>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cali 1963 YOM plates> Message-ID: <2073722686.431007.1564600968217 at mail.yahoo.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8">>?? Plates issued to my Bugeye in 1960.? Restored and still on the car today.Mike MacLean>>????? On Wednesday, July 31, 2019, 11:15:42 AM PDT, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:>?? >?? I have a pair of yellow lettered black original plates for sale$200?obo before I list on ebay.?Let me know if interested or want more photos>> Ira Erbs> Portland, OR> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone_______________________________________________> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> Suggested annual donation? $12.75>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive>> Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net>>??? > -------------- next part --------------> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190731/b2d93ee2/attachment.html>> -------------- next part --------------> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...> Name: 00049_n_r17apnhe67x0049.jpg> Type: image/jpeg> Size: 5877682 bytes> Desc: not available> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20190731/b2d93ee2/attachment.jpg>>> ------------------------------>> Subject: Digest Footer>> _______________________________________________> Healeys mailing list> Healeys at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>>> ------------------------------>> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 242> ****************************************>>_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiveHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
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