[Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior
Chris Dimmock
austin.healey at gmail.com
Sat Jan 26 21:53:48 MST 2019
Hi David,
A far better test would be to heat the Dynamat coated metal from the metal side. Heat it for 10 or 15 minutes, then leave it for 5 mins. Can you now put your hand on the dynamat side 5 minutes after the heat is turned off? Or has it retained too much heat to even touch it??
As I said, the far better solution to heat issues is to wrap your exhaust from the head down to where the exhaust turns under the car (I.e. In the airflow) - or ceramic coat it - because that's where a huge amount of heat comes from. And then install the factory fibrous cement sheets standing off the floor on the underside above the muffler/ pipes.
And before someone says heat wrap destroys your exhaust extractors, and reduces their life, my mild steel (not stainless) extractors have been on the car, heat wrapped, since 1986.
Best
Chris
> On 27 Jan 2019, at 12:05 pm, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> We install Dynamat on all of our interiors. After an simple experiment you will see how well it works.
>
> Take a small piece of Dynamat say about a 12” square piece. Stick it to a piece of sheet metal. Then take a heat paint strip gun and putt on high and direct it straight at the Dynamat. However first you need to heat another piece of sheet metal. Hold your hand on the back side of the sheet metal. In a very short time you will not be able to touch the sheet metal. Then try the same thing on the piece with the Dynamat.
>
> I will let you all come up with your own answer. But this is what sold me on installing Dynamat on all of our restorations.
>
>
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
>
>
>
>> On Jan 26, 2019, at 2:43 PM, Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au> wrote:
>>
>> I agree with Chris, Dynamat and similar products are pretty well useless to stop heat when installed inside the car. They are effective in a closed car as sound insulation. I tried it in my Vanguard and Austin Utes, it reduced noise but the big problem is the mastic heats up, transfers the heat into the aluminium foil coating which then becomes a heat radiator. In my Vanguard ute you could fry an egg on the foil after 45 minutes driving. Heat shields with air gaps under the car between the heat source and body is still the best way to go, and if you look at modern cars that is how it is done.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Larry Varley
>>
>>
>>> On 25/01/2019 10:49 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
>>> On my BJ8, I just have "bare" painted floors, and no underfelt. I
>>> just have the factory style fibrous cement heat shields under the floor (with an air gap) and the firewall engine bay ones.
>>> I have heat wrapped extractors that have been on the car for 23 years, with a side exhaust, and I don't have any cockpit heat issues.
>>> I don't actually understand what issue you men are trying to solve by gluing 20 kg of sound deadening on the floor or an open Sportscar?
>>> Keep the heat out first.
>>> Out of the car.
>>> Sincerely.
>>> Chris Dimmock
>>> Sydney Australia.
>>> www.myaustinhealey.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On 25 Jan 2019, at 7:59 am, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> FWIW I used dynamat under my rugs, firewall, and trannie tunnel cover. Rarely drive in the summer due to vapor lock issues in traffic but find neither heat nor noise is an issue.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Richard C
>>>> BN7 440
>>>>
>>>>> On Jan 24, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Yes; you’re right; Dynaliner is their best product for thermal issues.
>>>>>
>>>>> From: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:17 AM
>>>>> To: fmags at cox.net; healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior
>>>>>
>>>>> When I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I tried to compare various thermal insulation efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary concern was heat not sound. Many of the sources made it nearly impossible because they do not publish this information. I just looked at Dynamat's website & in a quick search could not find any "R" value information. However, I did notice that they seem to be saying Dynamat is primarily for sound insulation & their Dynaliner is primarily for thermal insulation. Remember that anything you put between the heat source & the cockpit will act as an insulator. But some things will be better at it than other things. Dynaliner is a closed cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds similar to neoprene to me. By the way, it is the small air spaces that do most of the insulating, not the rubber.
>>>>> R values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if something has an R value of 8 btu/inch & the material is 1/2" thick it will actually have an R of 4.
>>>>> This is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is transferred by conduction, convection & radiation.
>>>>> The insulation in a Healey will have to be able to withstand relatively high temperatures, perhaps water & possibly some abrasion.
>>>>> I am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to not be the best way to reduce heat if that is your goal & there is very limited space available for good thermal insulation so use the best available after you figure out what that is.
>>>>> Gary Hodson
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>
>>>>> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>> Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm
>>>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob,
>>>>>
>>>>> Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any gaps you find in the engine bay. Any opening will let heat in of course.
>>>>>
>>>>> I didn’t use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the factory seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, it’s been awhile…
>>>>>
>>>>> As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; can’t say it reduced the heat any or not; it’s still hot in the footwell. I think if I were doing it today, I’d use Dynamat. I just put some in another vehicle as sound insulation and it works great for that and is supposed to reduce heat as well. I put the Refletix on the gearbox side of the tunnel as it’s rather thick, but I think I’d put Dynamat on the inside. It’s very thin (but heavy), so I don’t think it would make the carpet look too thick. Not cheap, though. Alot of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.
>>>>>
>>>>> BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healey’s; Don’t recall which one, but its on their website and should be a custom fit. Should work on all big Healey’s I would think.
>>>>>
>>>>> I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot; may put some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.
>>>>>
>>>>> Hope this helps,
>>>>> Frank
>>>>> ’65 BJ8
>>>>>
>>>>> <Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation. What is the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the tunnel? Is it recommended to install heat insulation on the transmission side of the tunnel. If so, what to use, for example heavy duty 3M spray or?>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>
>>>
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