[Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior

Larry Varley varley at cosmos.net.au
Sat Jan 26 15:43:41 MST 2019


I agree with Chris, Dynamat and similar products are pretty well useless 
to stop heat when installed inside the car. They are effective in a 
closed car as sound insulation. I tried it in my Vanguard and Austin 
Utes, it reduced noise but the big problem is the mastic heats up, 
transfers the heat into the aluminium foil coating which then becomes a 
heat radiator. In my Vanguard ute you could fry an egg on the foil after 
45 minutes driving. Heat shields with air gaps under the car between the 
heat source and body is still the best way to go, and if you look at 
modern cars that is how it is done.

Cheers

Larry Varley


On 25/01/2019 10:49 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote:
> On my BJ8, I just have "bare" painted floors, and no underfelt. I
>  just have the factory style fibrous cement heat shields under the 
> floor (with an air gap) and the firewall engine bay ones.
> I have heat wrapped extractors that have been on the car for 23 years, 
> with a side exhaust, and I don't have any cockpit heat issues.
> I don't actually understand what issue you men are trying to solve by 
> gluing 20 kg of sound deadening on the floor or an open Sportscar?
> Keep the heat out first.
> Out of the car.
> Sincerely.
> Chris Dimmock
> Sydney Australia.
> www.myaustinhealey.com <http://www.myaustinhealey.com>
>
>
>
> On 25 Jan 2019, at 7:59 am, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com 
> <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> FWIW I used dynamat under my rugs, firewall, and trannie tunnel 
>> cover. Rarely drive in the summer due to vapor lock issues in traffic 
>> but find neither heat nor noise is an issue.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Richard C
>> BN7 440
>>
>> On Jan 24, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net 
>> <mailto:fmags at cox.net>> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes; you’re right; Dynaliner is their best product for thermal issues.
>>>
>>> *From:* warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com> 
>>> <warthodson at aol.com <mailto:warthodson at aol.com>>
>>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:17 AM
>>> *To:* fmags at cox.net <mailto:fmags at cox.net>; healeys at autox.team.net 
>>> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the 
>>> interior
>>>
>>> When I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I tried to compare 
>>> various thermal insulation efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary 
>>> concern was heat not sound. Many of the sources made it nearly 
>>> impossible because they do not publish this information. I just 
>>> looked at Dynamat's website & in a quick search could not find any 
>>> "R" value information. However, I did notice that they seem to be 
>>> saying Dynamat is primarily for sound insulation & their Dynaliner 
>>> is primarily for thermal insulation. Remember that *anything* you 
>>> put between the heat source & the cockpit will act as an insulator. 
>>> But some things will be better at it than other things. Dynaliner is 
>>> a closed cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds similar to 
>>> neoprene to me. By the way, it is the small air spaces that do most 
>>> of the insulating, not the rubber.
>>>
>>> R values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if something has an R 
>>> value of 8 btu/inch & the material is 1/2" thick it will actually 
>>> have an R of 4.
>>>
>>> This is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is transferred by 
>>> conduction, convection & radiation.
>>>
>>> The insulation in a Healey will have to be able to withstand 
>>> relatively high temperatures, perhaps water & possibly some abrasion.
>>>
>>> I am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to not be the best way 
>>> to reduce heat if that is your goal & there is very limited space 
>>> available for good thermal insulation so use the best available 
>>> after you figure out what that is.
>>>
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net <mailto:fmags at cox.net>>
>>> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>> Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the 
>>> interior
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any 
>>> gaps you find in the engine bay.  Any opening will let heat in of 
>>> course.
>>>
>>> I didn’t use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the 
>>> factory seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, it’s been awhile…
>>>
>>> As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; can’t 
>>> say it reduced the heat any or not; it’s still hot in the footwell.  
>>> I think if I were doing it today, I’d use Dynamat.  I just put some 
>>> in another vehicle as sound insulation and it works great for that 
>>> and is supposed to reduce heat as well.  I put the Refletix on the 
>>> gearbox side of the tunnel as it’s rather thick, but I think I’d put 
>>> Dynamat on the inside.  It’s very thin (but heavy), so I don’t think 
>>> it would make the carpet look too thick.  Not cheap, though.   Alot 
>>> of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.
>>>
>>> BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healey’s; 
>>> Don’t recall which one, but its on their website and should be a 
>>> custom fit. Should work on all big Healey’s I would think.
>>>
>>> I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot; 
>>> may put some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.
>>>
>>> Hope this helps,
>>>
>>> Frank
>>>
>>> ’65 BJ8
>>>
>>> <Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation.  
>>> What is the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the 
>>> tunnel?  Is it recommended to install heat insulation on the 
>>> transmission side of the tunnel.  If so, what to use, for example 
>>> heavy duty 3M spray or?>
>>>
>
>
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