[Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior

Thu Jan 24 13:34:02 MST 2019

 Anyone using Koolmat?
Automotive Heat Shield Products | Industrial Heat Reduction Insulation
Mike MacLean

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Automotive Heat Shield Products | Industrial Heat Reduction Insulation

Koolmat | Automotive Heat Shield Products | Heat Insulation for Industry, Air Craft, Boats | Marine, Welding and...
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    On Thursday, January 24, 2019, 12:06:44 PM PST, Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net> wrote:  

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Yes; you’re right; Dynaliner is their best product for thermal issues.

From: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com> 
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:17 AM
To: fmags at cox.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior

When I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I tried to compare various thermal insulation efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary concern was heat not sound. Many of the sources made it nearly impossible because they do not publish this information. I just looked at Dynamat's website & in a quick search could not find any "R" value information. However, I did notice that they seem to be saying Dynamat is primarily for sound insulation & their Dynaliner is primarily for thermal insulation. Remember that anything you put between the heat source & the cockpit will act as an insulator. But some things will be better at it than other things. Dynaliner is a closed cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds similar to neoprene to me. By the way, it is the small air spaces that do most of the insulating, not the rubber.

R values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if something has an R value of 8 btu/inch & the material is 1/2" thick it will actually have an R of 4. 

This is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is transferred by conduction, convection & radiation. 

The insulation in a Healey will have to be able to withstand relatively high temperatures, perhaps water & possibly some abrasion. 

I am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to not be the best way to reduce heat if that is your goal & there is very limited space available for good thermal insulation so use the best available after you figure out what that is. 

Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior

Bob,

Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any gaps you find in the engine bay.  Any opening will let heat in of course.

I didn’t use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the factory seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, it’s been awhile…

As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; can’t say it reduced the heat any or not; it’s still hot in the footwell.  I think if I were doing it today, I’d use Dynamat.  I just put some in another vehicle as sound insulation and it works great for that and is supposed to reduce heat as well.  I put the Refletix on the gearbox side of the tunnel as it’s rather thick, but I think I’d put Dynamat on the inside.  It’s very thin (but heavy), so I don’t think it would make the  carpet look too thick.  Not cheap, though.   Alot of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.

BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healey’s; Don’t recall which one, but its on their website and should be a custom fit.  Should work on all big Healey’s I would think.

I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot; may put some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.

Hope this helps,

Frank

’65 BJ8

<Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation.  What is the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the tunnel?  Is it recommended to install heat insulation on the transmission side of the tunnel.  If so, what to use, for example heavy duty 3M spray or?>

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