The Jensen Interceptor used closed cell foam. Still a good choice, I think. R number used to be on McMaster Car web page.Ken Freese 65BJ8
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-------- Original message --------From: warthodson at aol.com Date: 1/24/19 8:16 AM (GMT-08:00) To: fmags at cox.net, healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior
When I was restoring my BJ8 (about 6-8 years ago) I tried to compare various thermal insulation efficiencies. I.E. "R" values. My primary concern was heat not sound. Many of the sources made it nearly impossible because they do not publish this information. I just looked at Dynamat's website & in a quick search could not find any "R" value information. However, I did notice that they seem to be saying Dynamat is primarily for sound insulation & their Dynaliner is primarily for thermal insulation. Remember that anything you put between the heat source & the cockpit will act as an insulator. But some things will be better at it than other things. Dynaliner is a closed cell (air spaces) rubber material. That sounds similar to neoprene to me. By the way, it is the small air spaces that do most of the insulating, not the rubber.
R values are often stated as btuh/inch. So, if something has an R value of 8 btu/inch & the material is 1/2" thick it will actually have an R of 4.
This is primarily discussing conduction. Heat is transferred by conduction, convection & radiation.
The insulation in a Healey will have to be able to withstand relatively high temperatures, perhaps water & possibly some abrasion.
I am trying to point out that Dynamat appears to not be the best way to reduce heat if that is your goal & there is very limited space available for good thermal insulation so use the best available after you figure out what that is.
Gary Hodson
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Magnusson <fmags at cox.net>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2019 5:07 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior
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Bob,
Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any gaps you find in the engine bay. Any opening will let heat in of course.
I didn’t use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the factory seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, it’s been awhile…
As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; can’t say it reduced the heat any or not; it’s still hot in the footwell. I think if I were doing it today, I’d use Dynamat. I just put some in another vehicle as sound insulation and it works great for that and is supposed to reduce heat as well. I put the Refletix on the gearbox side of the tunnel as it’s rather thick, but I think I’d put Dynamat on the inside. It’s very thin (but heavy), so I don’t think it would make the carpet look too thick. Not cheap, though. Alot of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.
BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healey’s; Don’t recall which one, but its on their website and should be a custom fit. Should work on all big Healey’s I would think.
I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot; may put some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.
Hope this helps,
Frank
’65 BJ8
<Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation. What is the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the tunnel? Is it recommended to insta
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