[Healeys] Engine running smoothly, now to install the interior

[Frank Magnusson]

Bob,

 

Agree with other posts about replacing grommets, and sealing any gaps you
find in the engine bay.  Any opening will let heat in of course.

 

I didn't use any caulking when I installed the tunnel; just the factory
seals for the tunnel IIRC; But, it's been awhile.

 

As far as heat insulation, I used a product called Refletix; can't say it
reduced the heat any or not; it's still hot in the footwell.  I think if I
were doing it today, I'd use Dynamat.  I just put some in another vehicle as
sound insulation and it works great for that and is supposed to reduce heat
as well.  I put the Refletix on the gearbox side of the tunnel as it's
rather thick, but I think I'd put Dynamat on the inside.  It's very thin
(but heavy), so I don't think it would make the  carpet look too thick.  Not
cheap, though.   Alot of the custom car shops use it; Foose, Kindigit, etc.

 

BTW, Dynamat does make an entire kit for one of the big Healey's; Don't
recall which one, but its on their website and should be a custom fit.
Should work on all big Healey's I would think.

 

I need to pull my tunnel off as well to replace the gearshift boot; may put
some Dynamat in there as long as I have it off.

 

Hope this helps,

Frank

'65 BJ8

 

<Now I am ready to install the interior with new heat insulation.  What is
the recommended caulking compound to use when installing the tunnel?  Is it
recommended to install heat insulation on the transmission side of the
tunnel.  If so, what to use, for example heavy duty 3M spray or?>

 



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