[Healeys] Wednesday Rant

Wed Dec 11 10:11:38 MST 2019

That is the edge of the inner race of the outer bearing.  I’ve attached another illustration that might add some understanding.

Steve 

From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 10:53 AM
To: Max Byers
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant

OK, I see where the shims go in your cutaway illustration, but what is that thickness of material behind the tabbed washer and outside of the outer bearing?

Mike M

On Wednesday, December 11, 2019, 4:37:07 AM PST, Max Byers <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote: 

Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047.  Make sure your assembly is like the attachment.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC  USA

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM
To: Michael MacLean; Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant

Mike,

Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the 
outer bearing and the tabbed washer.  A previous owner drew an arrow 
showing the correct location.  The shims go between the distance piece 
and the outer bearing.

I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many 
shims required.  Less than 0.060" thickness required.

Can you send some photos of the hardware?  Are the parts from a later 
BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, 
etc)?  If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the 
axle and the inner bearing?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>      I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of 
> this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars.  I did 
> not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number 
> or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free 
> rotation but no end play.  I started out with one .020 shim added to one 
> .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim.  A total 
> of 5 shims.  The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I 
> added an identical stack on top of the first five shims.  We are talking 
> .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs.  This 
> is where I stopped at about midnight last night.  I had enough for 
> tonight.  I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of 
> shims.  I have to order more to do the passenger side.  Nobody told me 
> how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new 
> parts and never having disassembled it in the first place.  By the way, 
> the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this 
> job had me a little confuse.  The illustration of the two bearings, 
> distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled 
> without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the 
> bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance 
> piece and the inside of the out bearing race.  It says 12 shims here!  
> You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed 
> washer.  I started saying bad words when I saw that.  I still have at 
> least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be 
> enough.  I can tell you one thing,  if I ever have to turn the rotors 
> again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place.  
> There, I feel better now. (Not really!)
> Mie MacLean
> 
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