[Healeys] Thermostats

Mon Sep 17 10:07:35 MDT 2018

An overflow reservoir will see to that. After the engine has cooled down 
the expelled coolant will be sucked back into the rad.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 17-9-2018 om 18:00 schreef David Nock BCS:
> The main purpose of putting a higher pressure cap is to stop the 
> continues loss of coolant after shutting the engine down and the 
> engine temp going up over the 212 point.  By putting a 10 or 13 max 
> pressure cap you have raised the boiling point 10 to 20 degrees thus 
> stopping the coolant loss.
> It wont do anything for the overheating.
> On your newer cars today they need a much higher pressure cap because 
> the run the engine temp much higher to reduce emissions. I have seen 
> some new Jaguars and Land Rovers that are running a 25 lb cap. As well 
> as cooling systems that you can not fill up correctly with out using a 
> vacuum type filler. Due to the fact that there will be air pockets in 
> the cooling system that you can not remove any other way.
> David Nock
> British Car Specialists
> 209-948-8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
> *From:* Kees Oudesluijs <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 17, 2018 7:53 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Thermostats
>
> 7 Psi should be more than enough on these old engines. Water pump seal 
> may fail (as mentioned), so may the hoses and the original style 
> radiator if you operate under a higher pressure. Modern cars can take 
> much higher pressures of  20Psi or more. If your cooling system is up 
> to scratch there should not be a problem. i.e. clean system, radiator 
> with enough capacity, thermostatically controlled electric fan to keep 
> things under control in dense traffic and hot weather. The electric 
> fan may not be original but when these cars were new traffic 
> conditions were not as demanding as in these days. It just keeps you 
> out of trouble at very little costs and a bit of ingenuity (breakers 
> yard).
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 17-9-2018 om 14:14 schreef Michael Salter:
>> Also, with respect to cooling system pressure, the water pump seal in 
>> the 6 cylinder engines typically won't handle much over 10 p.s.i.. M
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of 
>> David Nock mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com
>> *Sent:* Sunday, September 16, 2018 11:16:50 PM
>> *To:* Linwood Rose
>> *Cc:* Forum Healeys
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Thermostats
>> If you are using the alloy radiator you have a short neck cap. 
>> Depending on the press’s app you are using you can not use a bellows 
>> type thermostat. Because the bellows will collapse if you use 
>> anything over 7 lbs. Then the thermostat will close and the engine 
>> will overheat.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2018, at 7:19 AM, Linwood Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com 
>> <mailto:linwoodrose at mac.com>> wrote:
>>
>>> I would like to go back to Steve Byers’ comment. I am not so much 
>>> concerned about my car overheating. When the engine was rebuilt it 
>>> was thoroughly cleaned to get rid of all sludge. I run an aluminum 
>>> radiator, have built and installed air ducting for improved flow. I 
>>> do not have an electric fan.
>>> My problem was that my engine ran cool and would take quite a while 
>>> to “warm up.” I think I was using a 165 degree (or thereabouts) 
>>> non-sleeved thermostat. Robert Shaw as I recall. So I wanted to get 
>>> my engine up to 185-190 degrees sooner. I went with one of the same 
>>> AC sleeved thermostats 82 degrees centigrade from Kees that Steve 
>>> used. The engine seems to be much happier and gets to running temp 
>>> more quickly.
>>> At least for my engine, a 160-165 degree thermostat keeps things 
>>> cool too long. In a perfect world I would prefer David Nock’s 
>>> bellows thermostat but with a 185-190 degree opening. Since that 
>>> doesn’t seem to be available I think I will stick with the AC unit 
>>> and keep my eye on the temp. Gauge.
>>> I am no authority on this. I am simply passing along my experience. 
>>> Am I understanding all of this correctly?
>>> Thanks,
>>> Lin
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 15, 2018, at 9:30 PM, Rossm <rvmaylor at shaw.ca 
>>> <mailto:rvmaylor at shaw.ca>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> To be fair Michael, it is hot maybe three days a year in Canada?:) 
>>>> .  I left Calgary yesterday for the Rendezvous and it was snowing 
>>>> already. First time the hood contraption on the BN6 has been up 
>>>> since last September.
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>
>>>> On Sep 15, 2018, at 10:50, Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com 
>>>> <mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Well I have watched this discussion on sleeved thermostats for the 
>>>>> last week but now I just have to say. When the sleeved thermostats 
>>>>> went NLA, about 45 years ago, we resorted to installing just plain 
>>>>> old Stant 175 degree stats and guess what ... not one complaint or 
>>>>> comment on running hotter or overheating and absolutely no sign of 
>>>>> any symptoms of overheating on my own BJ8 even in the hottest of 
>>>>> ambient temperatures. It just didn't happen!!! Just sayin'. M
>>>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
>>>>> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Rossm 
>>>>> <rvmaylor at shaw.ca <mailto:rvmaylor at shaw.ca>>
>>>>> *Sent:* Saturday, September 15, 2018 10:35:32 AM
>>>>> *To:* Forum Healeys
>>>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Thermostats
>>>>> Three sleeved thermostats, one on the right 160 degrees, middle no 
>>>>> idea,  left is a Smiths x85002s/86 (180F) and has failed open.
>>>>>
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