[Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem

Michael Oritt michael.oritt at gmail.com
Sat Oct 27 06:00:07 MDT 2018


Bill--

Thanks, and I will do that too.  I have actually found some replacement
Smith's switches online but they all appear to be used, so I'll stick with
mine as long as I can.
Judging by the prices Moss asks for new parts, such as a switch ($150.00+)
or core ($950.00+)  I am committed to keeping my car's present parts
operable about as much as my own!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Oct 27, 2018 at 12:07 AM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
>
> Hit the switch with a shot or two of contact cleaner before you close it
> all up. It may have just been a little corrosion on the contacts.
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
> Wendland <bighealey3k at aim.com>
> *Sent:* Friday, October 26, 2018 6:20:43 PM
> *To:* airtightproductions at icloud.com; michael.oritt at gmail.com
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem
>
> In aviation we call it PFM. Pure F**king Magic! I will amaze every time.
>
> Larry
> '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>
> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 1:53 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem
>
>
>
> Great news! I have a mechanic I work with and he does many British cars.
> Many times they arrive with a "problem" and as soon as he starts to look at
> the "problem", it's fixed! Don't know why or how, but it's working! Around
> the shop we call this "FM". Loosely translated it means: F**king Magic!
>    Glad to hear you're up and running again and if my heater motor ever
> needs attention, I like your idea of closing off the top vents, thanks for
> the suggestion.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BM1 #598
>
>
> On Oct 26, 2018, at 09:09 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
> About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate
> which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified
> that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts
> with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that
> the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially
> encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when
> turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the
> problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just
> to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came
> on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full
> blast to low just as it always had.
>
>
> I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power
> lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a
> typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that
> should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some
> point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a
> replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to
> repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the
> top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the
> windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.
>
> Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you
> who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
>
>
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