[Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem
bighealey3k at aim.com
Fri Oct 26 13:07:52 MDT 2018
Roland, I know you meant an intermittent "open" because if it was a short, it would have blown the fuse. The word short gets misused to often. As I wrote before it could be the wiper inside the rheostat is a little tired and needed some re-positioning when he opened up the housing.
From: Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Oct 26, 2018 2:24 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem
It still could be an intermittent short in the wires to the rheostat. I'd suggest wiggling the wires while the fan is running and the wires are as close to their installed position as possible.
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone.
From: Michael Oritt
Sent: Friday, October 26, 2018 8:58 AM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Heater motor or switch problem
About an hour ago I popped the spring clips off of the heater face-plate which gave me access to the back of the rheostat switch. I first verified that there was power to the switch and then jumped across the two posts with a screwdriver. The heater motor came on full blast, telling me that the problem was in the switch, which had felt a bit odd when I initially encountered the problem a few days ago as the "detent-like feel" when turning the fan on was missing. Though I assumed I had identified the problem as being in the switch I nevertheless turned the control knob just to see how it felt and--wonder of wonders--the fan motor immediately came on. What's more it responded perfectly to the rheostat, going from full blast to low just as it always had.
I am 100% certain that I had the ignition switch on and the heater power lead connected with an intact fuse and I can only say that this is a typical Healey deal, and now that the car has my attention I am sure that should I simply close the heater up the switch will probably act up at some point in the future. I'm going to investigate whether I can source a replacement switch, either Lucas or not. I'll also take the opportunity to repaint the front plate in black crackle and I am going to close off the top opening that supplies heated air to the two vents in back of the windshield, which seems like a waste of hot air.
Thanks all for your patience and advise and I hope this gives some of you who have experienced similar situations a laugh.
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