[Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps

Wed May 16 06:19:59 MDT 2018

The one thing that noone’s mentioned so far is putting in a modern starter motor. That won’t clean up the contacts in the wiring system, but it will certainly make the best use of your amps.

Plainly not to everyone’s taste. Visually not obtrusive, but audibly a bit off.

Does create space for a bigger oil filter if you’ve got a conversion that comes straight off the block…..

Simon

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex
Sent: 16 May 2018 11:36
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold Cranking Amps

I installed battery cutoff switch obtained from the local marine equipment supply store. It is very heavy-duty, works nicely, and includes a removable red "key" that helps ensure security. I also added a small toggle switch on the battery cutoff mounting plate that grounds the distributor security wire.

No. It does not look original. However, it fits perfectly in the original's place. It has very low voltage drop when cranking the starter motor.

Alex in Maine
1960 BT7

On 5/15/2018 3:06 PM, ggilliam at usol.com <mailto:ggilliam at usol.com>  wrote:

Bob.

 Another item you didn't consider are the contacts in the battery disconnect switch. I know with mine I have to sometimes fiddle around with it to make good enough contact to run the starter well. Don't know if the current available replacements are satisfactory.

Regards,

 Gordy 

Longbridge BN4, with left side door lock

On 2018-05-15 10:30, Bob Spidell wrote:

There's several variables to consider:

- Later 6-cyl cars have the battery in the boot.  That's a long cable run to the starter solenoid; the cables and terminals need to be in good nick. 

- Ditto the starter.  The field coils in starters build up resistance over time and, eventually, the starter won't crank as well, putting even more load on the battery.  After a couple cranks, the field coils get warm and the resistance builds up and, of course, the battery's reserve gets depleted.

- The higher the compression in your engine, the harder it is to turn over.

- Thicker oil, like 20W-50 can bog an engine down a bit.

The more CCA you have, the more margin to start an engine, esp. on a cold day (that's why CCA is the nominal stat for batteries).  My Healeys are harder to start after they've been sitting for more than a few days.  The 500CCA number I gave was a SWAG; I haven't seen any full-size auto battery with less than that anyway.  We got a battery for my dad's '65 Mustang 289 with 550CCA from Autozone; Costco didn't sell the size we needed.  It cranks the V8 OK.

FWIW, when I rebuilt my BJ8's engine the (previously) satisfactory wet cell battery I had wouldn't even turn the engine over (later compression checks showed 180PSI +/- in all 6).  I had the starter rebuilt and installed an 800CCA AGM battery.  The starter actually startled me the first time I cranked it; it's nearly as fast as the geared starter in my Mustang.

TLDR; The more the better.

Bob

On 5/14/2018 10:12 PM, John Spaur wrote:

So... wise ones (and I mean that sincerely)

My current battery is an Intimidator rated at 775. Bob S. mentioned in a post about a minimum of 500.

How many CCA's should a battery have for a Healey engine?

TIA

John Spaur

San Jose

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