[Healeys] Anybody body out there rebuild Lucas Fuel pumps?

[Bob Spidell]

That didn't occur to me--and it makes sense--although I have vented the 
diaphragm chamber into the boot.

Bob

On 5/13/2018 10:58 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> I believe that the idea with the metal pipe was to attach a plastic 
> tube to it and vent the pump elsewhere.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 05/13/2018 11:00 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> True enough about the electronic pumps. This is what happens when 
>> water gets into the electronics (attached photo).  This pump had 
>> about 50K miles on it, but had recently gone through some serious 
>> rain in Washington state.
>>
>> What I learned from this, er, 'experience' is that the check 
>> ball/valve that vents ozone out of the control (electronic) section 
>> needs the plastic cap over over the vent.  I haven't bought a pump in 
>> a while, but IIRC some of them come with a metal 'pipe'--for lack of 
>> a better word--without the plastic cap that helps prevent water from 
>> entering. Installing the cap--if you can find one--involves pulling 
>> the metal pipe off--be careful you don't lose the small ball bearing 
>> check ball--and installing the plastic cap over it.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> On 5/13/2018 2:56 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>> I rebuild/overhaul SU (mostly AUF300/AZX1300 series) fuel pumps 
>>> using the standard points and adding a transil across the points to 
>>> limit the voltage across the points thus preventing arcing. It also 
>>> makes the pump dual polarity. Keeping the points means that it is 
>>> possible to attend to the fuel pump at the roadside if need be. 
>>> Electronically converted pumps, be it with an optical or magnetic 
>>> system, are supposed to be reliable but if they go wrong, and they 
>>> sometimes do, that´s it.
>>>
>>> It is easy to rebuild these pumps. Very often it is only necessary 
>>> to clean and polish the points and properly set the point gaps, 
>>> spring blade front to bridge 0,9mm and tumbler to cast iron body 
>>> 2,3mm, some say 1,8mm but that is a very early setting. Replacement 
>>> is easy but dismantling the pump is needed.
>>>
>>> If the pump has not been in use for a long time the internals may 
>>> have corroded. The valves may than need replacement. Dismantle the 
>>> pump, clean and rebuild. The old triple layer diaphragm is nearly 
>>> always in good serviceable condition and preferable to a new single 
>>> layer one. It may feel a bit stif, but this is usually caused by the 
>>> layers being stuck together. Just pry the layers apart very 
>>> carefully, especially the very thin kevlar membrane and apply just a 
>>> smear of talcum powder between the layers.
>>>
>>> There are plenty of sites you can Google for the rebuilding process.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>