[Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 11, Issue 89

Craig Cooper cpcooper at ymail.com
Tue Mar 13 14:16:45 MDT 2018


Forgive me if I am posting incorrectly here, but I am searching for a list of fasteners posted some time ago entitled  
"Bolts, nuts & washers and more for BN2 cataloged.."
Anyone know where I might find it?
Thanks, 
Craig





 

    On Monday, March 12, 2018 11:45 AM, "healeys-request at autox.team.net" <healeys-request at autox.team.net> wrote:
 

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re: Radiator re-core (Harold Manifold)
  2. Stator tube wiring loom succes! (Bert Van Brande)
  3. Re: Radiator re-core (Michael Salter)
Dave,

I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that
recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't
seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the
work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of cooling
fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least 4
rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat
provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be
reused.

The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is
returned to you.

Harold



-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton
Schulz
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core

If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks,
it should fit.
Elton
On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get
a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan.
>
> Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency
core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do
the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that
it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this?
>
> Thanks as always!
> Dave
>
> 64 BJ8
> 72 XJ6
>
>
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thanks for all the suggestions, it worked! 
I ended up drilling the lower portion of the wire out, pouring in some acetone to soften up the wires further, but not sure if this really helped.  Next day I used a 25" long 1/4" drill bit and after about 15-20" of drilling, which takes time, the wire harness started to shift and I was able to pull it out from the top.   But there was no way to pull a new cable through.   A 5/16 long masonry drill ($2.99 OSH clearance bin) ground down to stator tube inner diameter, about 9/32", was used to drill out all the rust, quite a bit came out of there!   Then a night soak in Evaporust and the harness (cotton/braided) slid right through without any cutting of bullets.
Kurt was right about the rust, the wire harness cover wicks up moisture and the tube rust from the inside out, reducing the inner diameter of the tube.

The Moto Lita boss need some machining to make room for the canceling arm but there was also a 3/32" or about 2.5mm protrusion of the splined section inside that needed to be milled off.
Getting closer...
Bert










 <!--#yiv0908718710 .yiv0908718710EmailQuote {margin-left:1pt;padding-left:4pt;border-left:#800000 2px solid;}-->Harold's advice is excellent and if followed should achieve a great result.
A couple of other points.
1. Frequently there is little wrong with an original radiator if the shop can "rod out" the core which involves removing one tank.
2. I would not recommend having the shop paint the finished product. They seem to use a very thick type of paint which never lools correct. After getting the rad back with no paint carefully degrease it then spray with satin blach from a rattle can, the result will be far superior.

MFrom: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2018 12:00:58 PM
To: 'Elton Schulz'; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core Dave,

I had a healey radiator recored about a year ago. I took it to a shop that
recores highway trucks and industrial radiators as automotive shops don't
seem to do this type of work anymore. Once you find a shop that can do the
work discuss the make up of the core they can provide. The number of cooling
fins per inch is about 12 but check your core and there should be at least 4
rows of tubes. If you can increase the number rows of tubes to 5 it mat
provide additional cooling. The top tank, bottom tank and side should be
reused.

The finished product should be painted and pressured tested before it is
returned to you.

Harold



-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Elton
Schulz
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2018 10:26 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator re-core

If you are able to reuse the original side rails and top and bottom tanks,
it should fit.
Elton
On 3/10/2018 8:15 AM, David Masucci wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> Thanks to all who responded to my break in oil question. It's good to get
a concensus of opinions like that. I have a plan.
>
> Now I need to have my radiator rebuilt with a modern higher efficiency
core. I assume that I should be able to find a competent shop locally to do
the work. I worry that it comes back dimensionally sized correctly so that
it fits. Any advice from the group before I go forward with this?
>
> Thanks as always!
> Dave
>
> 64 BJ8
> 72 XJ6
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual
> donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz@frontiernet.net
>

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