[Healeys] Front wheel bearing query

Sun Jan 28 22:56:23 MST 2018

Agree with the actual words but in the recent posts there appears to be 
no mention of ( BMC ) spacer between the bearings. This is important 
when talking torque as you do not want to be putting pre-load onto the 
rotating components of the bearing. I owned a GMH sedan with the same 
bearings as the Healey BUT GMH do not use this BMC spacer. The purpose 
of the spacer is to provide bearing clearance but prevent the inner 
cups,  and washers, from rotating. If the bearings are very dry, high 
friction the risk is they rotate and if they rotate long and fast enougn 
they weld themselves to the axle. I have seen this with my own eyes and 
the damage caused when the repair mechanic removed the bearing with an 
oxy torch!!!!. Check your axles for scours indicating that the bearing 
cups are rotating on the axle. The bearings need to be a slide on fit 
for maintenance and ease of replacement. If this fit is an excessively 
loose fit the bearings without the spacer and appropiate shims torque 
correctly will rotate.

------ Original Message ------
From: "BJ8Healeys" <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, 29 Jan, 2018 At 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing query

The torque specification for the stub axle nut is 40 - 70 lb-ft.
My technique for achieving this is to torque first to 40, then continue 
toward lining up the next castellation with the cotter pin hole.  If the 
torque reaches 70 before the alignment is achieved, I remove the nut and 
add a wheel bearing shim under it.  Repeat until alignment is within 40 
- 70 lb-ft.  This torque spread is wide enough for latitude in the final 
torque, but enough to provide adequate preload ofthe bearings (according 
to the factory).

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC 
TARHEELY license plate

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob 
Spidell
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 11:33 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing query

Simon,
A few years ago, I had just begun a long road trip in my BJ8 with my 
son.  A hundred or so miles out of town the car developed a loud, 
grinding, 'squeal' at the right front.  Assuming wheel bearing damage, I 
got the right front wheel up on a jack and did the usual testing.  All 
seemed normal, so I got back on the road and the noise, of course, 
resumed.  A few hundred miles down the road the noise stopped.
We continued the trip--probably did 2-3K miles--and when I got home I 
tore into the hub.  Sure enough, that washer with the inner tab had spun 
and turned about 90deg in the direction of forward travel, then stopped 
(the noise was likely from the washer grinding against the inside of the 
hub).  So, yes, the tabs on these washers can shear and the washer can 
rotate.  I don't recall bearing damage, but I likely replaced both wheel 
bearings and associated parts on the car whilst I was in there.  If your 
other bearings were in good nick I think we know what caused the problem 
(it's possible your bad bearing ran dry as well).
I don't know if this was an original part, or it had been replaced by a 
previous owner, but I blame the 'usual suspect:'  sub-par aftermarket 
parts manufacture.  Also, I think the torque specification for the big 
castellated nut that holds everything together--IIRC, it's 70lb-ft--is a 
bit specious, as you have to line up a slot on the castellated nut with 
the hole in the axle threads for the cotter (and you'll have no idea 
what the actual, final torque is after you turn the nut to line up with 
the hold).  Since my experience, I always torque the snot out of that 
nut; i.e. I torque the nut to nominal or, nearly as tight as I can, then 
put a big breaker bar on it and continue torquing until at least the 
next slot (or the next, or the next ...).  That is a big nut and 'bolt,' 
it would take a gorilla to snap it off or cross-thread.   I've had no 
similar issue for 100K miles or so, though I just went through my hubs 
again and a couple of the bearings were worn, but had also been run 
dry.  This time, I sprung for (hopefully) better grease:
https://tinyurl.com/y9ljd69a <https://tinyurl.com/y9ljd69a>
This stuff feels--for lack of a better word--'slipperier' than petroleum 
grease I've used.  I have high hopes for it.
Bob

On 1/28/2018 7:30 AM, simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk 
<mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>  wrote:
Hi,
Some wisdom from the gurus please.
We’re looking at a MKII BT7 here. Disc brakes and wire wheels.
Now, I’ve “done” bearings before and maybe did this one wrong last 
time……
So, I took it all apart. No worries.
The outer bearing was completely shot. Surprisingly so as there had been 
very little movement indeed when moving the wheel once off the ground. 
And no “crunchiness” to the rotation. Certainly no noise or panic 
inducing anything.
I cleaned everything off in white spirit and, once all was pristine and 
dry, I gave everything a quick look.
See item 4, “washer”. The tab on mine had broken off in the groove on 
the hub. Now, I see that this washer is perhaps better called the 
“locating washer” when one is looking at the picture for the disc wheel 
setup.
But I don’t really see what the tab is good for……surely the washer can’t 
rotate once everything is tightened up, shims in situ etcetc?
Can the washer have been rotating? Surely not? And could the tab’s 
fracture have anything to do with the condition of my outer bearing?
(The inner bearing seems fine).
And, yes, I will get a new washer and I’m replacing both bearings.
It’s just curiosity really.
Thanks,
Simon

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