[Healeys] Sleeving Wheel Cylinders

[Bob Haskell]

Patrick,

If you're going to re-sleeve a set of wheel cylinders, I'd do the 
original 7/8" ones.

Are the brake shoes properly adjusted?  You're not loosing pedal because 
the system has to move the shoes to the drums first?

How did you bleed the master cylinder?  I've used an ezibleed on my 
tri-carb for years without an issue; until recently.  Couldn't get a 
good pedal after changing the master cylinder.  Although I had bench 
bleed it, I had to bleed the brakes the "old way" by pumping the brake 
pedal to get all the air out.

Are you using conventional or silicone fluid?  Are the master cylinder 
seals compatible with the fluid?  Roger Moment wrote an article in the 
Healey magazine several years ago about the seals swelling enough to 
keep the cylinder from working correctly.

The larger front wheel cylinders will change the brake balance.  Less 
force on the fronts.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 04/07/2018 07:12 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
> Greetings
> 
> Following spending quite a bit of my lifetime bleeding the brakes on the 
> BN3 I have reached a moment of inspiration.
> 
> While I have managed to extract all the air from the system there is 
> still a poor pedal.
> 
> New pipes, hoses, reservoir and front wheel cylinders. Rebuilt master 
> cylinder.
> 
> The master cylinder is a standard 100 unit and the new wheel cylinders 
> were needed due to the poor condition of the old 7/8in cylinders. This 
> afternoon I recalled that the new cylinders are 1in units. Methinks that 
> the poor pedal is being caused by the larger diameter wheel cylinders 
> and that the master cylinder is not coping.
> 
> How is my logic? Would it be possible to resleeve the wheel cylinders 
> from 1in to 7/8in?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Blue Mountains, Australia
> 
> 
> 
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