[Healeys] Overdrive wiring question
bspidell at comcast.net
Mon Sep 4 22:38:50 MDT 2017
I used the ol' 2x4 braced against the pedal to get the nominal setting
(but I thought it required too much pedal and the OD didn't always
deactivate when I assumed it would). I think it's a bit of personal
preference; I adjusted mine so just a quarter of a clutch pedal and a
quick blip--less than a downshift--would disengage the OD. Done just
right, it's smoother than my best downshift, so I gotta believe it's OK
on the internals. This OD has almost 200K miles and the only problems
(2) I've had with it were electrical.
Anyway, glad it's in the manual; I was beginning to wonder ...
On 9/4/2017 3:15 PM, BJ8Healeys wrote:
> The manual says:
> "Connect a low-consumption test lamp (a 12 volt 2.2 watt fascia panel
> light bulb is suitable) [I made a test lamp out of a single filament
> turn signal bulb and a spare bulb holder I had lying around] between
> the top terminal "A" (Fig. G.13)[of the throttle switch] and a
> convenient earthing point.
> The bulb should light when the overdrive and the ignition are both
> switched on, and the gear lever is set in the third or top gear position.
> When the overdrive is switched off, the bulb should remain alight
> with the throttle still closed.
> Progressively open the throttle by means of the accelerator pedal
> until the light goes out. Check the position of the throttle opening
> when this occurs: it should be one-fifth open. This position of the
> throttle has been reached when a 3/16 in. (5 mm.) diameter rod can be
> just passed between the throttle stop screw and the stop lever on the
> HD type of carburetter, or when a feeler gauge of 0.048 in. (1.22 mm.)
> thickness can be inserted between the throttle stop screw and the stop
> on the H4 type of carburetter used on earlier engines."
> The manual procedure would account for any system slack, but it also
> requires two people: one to operate the pedal and another to monitor
> the light and check the position of the throttle plates when it goes
> out. It would also require access to the throttle plates, and an
> estimate of what is "one fifth open". If that is related to the 3/16"
> rod, then why not just use the rod and adjust until the light goes out?
> I have an "overdrive warning" light just above the dash switch that I
> installed back in the '80s when I didn't mind drilling a new hole in
> the dash. When the switch is adjusted properly, the light stays on
> when the dash switch is turned off and then goes off with what seems
> to me a reasonable movement of the pedal. I would say it isn't
> necessary to account for slack in the system when using the 3/16" rod.
> Steve Byers
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Bob Spidell
> *Sent:* Monday, September 04, 2017 1:14 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Overdrive wiring question
> I'm working from memory--will check the manual later--but the way I
> interpreted the instructions were to adjust the switch with the
> throttles a spec distance--prob. the 3/16" as Steve mentions--opened.
> For some reason, I thought this should be achieved by pressing on the
> accelerator pedal to achieve this setting which, of course, would pull
> up any slack in the Rube Goldberg throttle mechanism. So, I set it
> this way but felt that it required too much pedal when disengaging the
> OD. I just fiddled with the adjustment to where the OD disengaged
> with what I felt was appropriate pedal. Maybe the 3/16" should be
> measured without allowing for linkage slack, maybe not; does anyone
> know for sure?
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