[Healeys] Pertronix question

[Oudesluys]

Pertronics or similar is the way to go.
Easy to install, bolt on! It just replaces the points and you can do 
away with the condenser. No need to change the plugs, wires or coil.
No need to dismantle the base plate for the points in the distributor. 
However, make sure the bob weights under the baseplate are free to move, 
the same for the vacuum advance/retard mechanism
Check that the overall impedance is in accordance with the instruction 
manual of the electronic ignition. It usually should be 3 Ohms. If your 
car has a ballast resistor (wire or block) in series with the coil make 
sure you connect the electronic ignition over both the resistor and 
coil. The coil and the resistor both have an impedance of ca. 1,5 Ohms, 
so in series 3 Ohms. Failing to do so may result in a fried electronic 
ignition.
Alternatively you can replace the coil plus resistor with a 12V coil 
with an impedance of around 3 Ohms.
Disconnect the bypass wire for the resistor from the starter relay. The 
electronic ignition has enough power to produce a decent spark during 
starting.
You have to set the timing after fitting as it will be way out after the 
conversion.

Nearly all problems with electronic ignition are because of not 
connecting it up correctly, i.e. straight to the coil instead of over 
coil AND resistor and leaving the bypass wire from the starter relay 
connected, thus frying the ignition.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 3-11-2017 om 1:54 schreef Bruce Steele:
>
> Well, after experiencing what seems to be “condenser misfiring” on my 
> way back from Russ Thompson’s shop, I’m thinking I may end my stubborn 
> holdout and convert to Pertronix.  I’ve a few questions:
>
> 1)What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II?
>
> a.Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II?
>
> b.Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug 
> wires, or do you replace the cap as well?
>
> c.Sources for caps and wires?  I’m assuming the Pertronix cap in the 
> Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not 
> fit a DM6 distributor.  Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder.
>
> 2)Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well?
>
> 3)The connection looks straight forward—red to coil (+), black to coil 
> (–) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into 
> the harness.  Obviously the while/black from coil (–) to the 
> distributor is removed.
>
> 4)Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.  Is this applicable 
> to the DM6?
>
> 5)Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead 
> post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly 
> secured to a hole in the housing with nuts.  I’m assuming I have to 
> remove the points plate to gain access, correct?
>
> Thanks in advance for the input.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
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