[Healeys] Aluminum Radiators available

Thu Jul 20 02:25:09 MDT 2017

John,

You can only check by taking the pump of the car and look for 
rust/cavitation holes in the body (snail) and rotor vanes.
The problem probably lies in you not driving the car enough, 13000 in 15 
years is way to little, creating a multitude of problems like sticking 
bob weights in the distributor, brake problems, all kinds of small items 
getting stuck, corrosion of switches and connectors in the wiring, 
degrading coolant, moisture in oil and brake fluid, engine wear, 
degrading of suspension parts (multiple grease points, shocks) etc etc.
Oil in coolant is not good. A small amount showing as an oil film is OK 
but when you see large blobs of  oil appear or thick mayonnaise action 
is needed. Coolant in oil is an absolute NO-NO. It can be a leak in the 
oil gallery or a crack in the cylinder head but in most cases it is a 
head gasket. When the car is used so little the head gasket can corrode 
quite badly.

Over heating at (some) speed can be caused by:
not enough coolant
sludge in engine and/or radiator
wrong or absent ducting around the radiator not directing enough air to 
the radiator
calcifying of radiator effectively blocking it internally
radiator externally dirty or damaged small slats preventing air flow 
through the radiator
wrong/faulty thermostat which does not block the radiator bypass when 
engine warm
lean mixture of the carbs, vacuum leak
wrong ignition timing worsened by sticking bob weights (lack of 
maintainance)
water pump not generating enough flow because of corrosion and/or 
cavitation of the vane and snail
blown head gasket
partially blocked exhaust

In traffic jams, on steep roads: insufficient flow from the radiator fan

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 20-7-2017 om 3:45 schreef John O'Brien:
> Kees:
>
> I am not sure how I would check the water pump for cavitation. It is 
> the original pump as far as I know, but I bought it in 2001 with about 
> 45000 miles.  Car has about 58000 miles on it now.  I have a correct 
> sleeved thermostat fitted.  I have thought about the electric fan, but 
> I don't think it would be a factor at highway speeds.  I have a higher 
> efficiency fan blade fitted.  The electric seems like ,it would be 
> more for keeping it cool at low speed driving or stopped.
>
> I'll think about having a different core fitted to my radiator. That 
> may be a better way to go.
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>
> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>
> On 7/19/2017 5:23 PM, Oudesluys wrote:
>> Check your water pump on efficiency (cavitation), fit a proper SMITH 
>> or equivalent sleeved thermostat, have a more efficient core fitted 
>> to your existing radiator and fit an electric radiator fan.
>> An aluminium radiator is not better than a proper copper one.
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>> Op 19-7-2017 om 23:21 schreef John O'Brien:
>>> Looking for any experience with current offerings on ebay.
>>>
>>> I just got back a few days ago from the Conclave in Waco.  We had a 
>>> great time and met many nice folks.  On our way home to Nebraska 
>>> driving in 95 plus temps, my 65 BJ8 started running hotter and 
>>> hotter until we had to pull into a service station and let it cool 
>>> down.  It boiled over in the lot, so I had to replace some 
>>> antifreeze solution too.  It seemed like, once the gauge got over 
>>> 212 the temp rocketed well past the 230 upper limit on the gauge. I 
>>> had a similar situation last year driving to Wisconsin on a hot day.
>>>
>>> So... I'm thinking of replacing the radiator with an aluminum one.  
>>> I put an aluminum rad. in my bugeye a few years back and never have 
>>> a heat problem.  I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with the 
>>> aluminum radiators on ebay.  One is a Worley for $355.00 w/ free 
>>> shipping 
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-manual-/112368575956?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&epid=906260673&hash=item1a29b065d4:g:zbQAAOSw4CFY7nCD&vxp=mtr
>>>
>>> and the other is a GPI racing at $350.00 w/ free shipping 
>>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/aluminum-radiator-AUSTIN-HEALEY-3000-1959-1967-/252984917906?fits=Make%3AAustin+Healey%7CModel%3A3000&hash=item3ae7137f92:g:Ia4AAOSwnHZYfX0m&vxp=mtr 
>>>
>>>
>>> Both made in China and look almost the same except the Worley fan 
>>> guard looks different.  The GPI looks more like the original Healey 
>>> rad.  I've also seen an American made one from Wizard Cooling for 
>>> $499.00, 
>>> https://wizardcooling.com/1959-1968-austin-healey-3000-aluminum-radiator/ 
>>> that looks very close to the GPI.  The Worley and GPI do not look 
>>> like they have the overflow tube on the side of the filler neck like 
>>> the Wizard.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts or experience with any of these would be appreciated.
>>>
>>> John O'Brien
>>>
>>> '65 BJ8 (Madelyn)
>>>
>>> '61 Bugeye (Lucy)
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>>>
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/banjojohn@cox.net
>>
>>
>
>