[Healeys] Shroud Repair.

John Rowe john at jtkarowe.com.au
Tue Jul 11 01:54:29 MDT 2017


I've seen photos of them in leather gear- they were TIG welding. Can be gas
welded also- absolute craftsmen.

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Tuesday, 11 July 2017 1:55 PM
To: richard mayor; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.

 

No, actually they were gas welded. I've seen photos of the process. The guy
repairing my front shroud is using gas welding. A real craftsman.

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of richard mayor
<boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 12:50:58 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. 

 

All the various panels that make up the shroud were TIG welded by Jensen.

 

On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 11:23 AM, Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
wrote:

A gap that big should have a new piece of Aluminum gas welded back in (if
you can find the right guy)  then the metal can be hammered back in to
shape. TIG weld usually are too hard and crack when worked and tend to get
bondo over the tops of them.  I have never seen any "factory applied" filler
in any of the cars I have worked on.  I don't believe the BMC factory ever
used it.

 

Cheers, 

 

Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM

 

 

Sent from Outlook <http://aka.ms/weboutlook> 

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Keith Pennell
<llennep at verizon.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:01 AM
To: john at jtkarowe.com.au; ahbt71 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair. 

 

I agree with John.  And don't use fiberglass!!

 

Keith



-----Original Message-----
From: John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au>
To: 'Mike Tobin' <ahbt71 at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jul 8, 2017 7:00 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.

Mike, not a job for novices or the faint hearted. You can end up with a big
blob of alloy on the floor no matter what welding technique you try. TIG
with an alternating current is the only way to go.

Bight the bullet and send it to a professional for repair

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net?> ] On Behalf Of Mike Tobin
Sent: Saturday, 8 July 2017 8:29 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Shroud Repair.

 

I've got  a couple-inch gap on the rear shroud at the flange bend.  What's
the best way to deal with it? I'd rather do it myself - just because that's
how I'm approaching the restoration.

I've got  MIG welder and I closed a couple small tears in the front shroud
with it.  I also fill a small hole by using a copper spoon behind the hole.
When I was done grinding ithe fixes came out OK. I'm hesitating to use the
spoon on a hole this size. The metal is also pretty thin there from
corrosian. I could use fiberglass, I suppose, , but I'd rather not.

 

 

I've been surprised by the amount of factory-applied filler I've uncovered
on both shrouds.  At first I thought I thought it was damage repair with the
first owner, but then I noticed that the reverse sides of the shrouds showed
no sign of trauma - the filler was used not to fill but to shape the
contour..

 

Cheers and Thanks Again,

Mike Tobin

Townsend, Montana

 

 

 

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