[Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question
m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
Thu Aug 31 21:26:07 MDT 2017
For what it is worth, I find the original fasteners on my BT7 (and on my 50s/60s English motorcycles) to be of excellent quality, and unless they are really butchered, I will clean them up and re-use them over and over.
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: August-31-17 2:03 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Rotor/Hub Question
I was going to replace the old, OEM bolts with new Grade 8 splitwashers, nuts and bolts, but noticed something I hadn't considered before. The OEM bolts have a long--about 3/4- inch--smooth shank, and only a half-inch or so of thread. But, if you go a hardware store to buy Grade
8 in the same, or slightly longer, length you won't find bolts this short with that much smooth shank. I noticed when removing the bolts that they seemed to be a pretty tight fit in both the rotor and hub holes; I now think that this is purposeful as having tightly fitted, smooth bolt shanks probably help prevent any sheering motion between the rotor and hub. Having a fully-threaded bolt would not prevent sheering, and the threads might cause fretting on the rotor and hub holes. This would be similar to, but different in practice, to the 'dowel' bolts used in mating bellhousings to the rear engine plate. Now, I think I either need to reuse the OEM bolts or buy longer, Grade 8 bolts with more shank and cut them to size.
No point, just an observation.
On 8/27/2017 11:01 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> I'll be installing new rotors and pads on my BJ8's front disks, and I
> have the kind of question only a really anal-retentive person would
> ask: Do the bolts that affix the hub to the rotor go in bolt head
> outside, or inside; i.e. with the bolt head, or nut, against the hub
> flange? It seems like the bolt head should be outside, but when I
> bought the car the nuts were on the outside.
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