[Healeys] Shims
Bob Spidell
bspidell at comcast.net
Wed Aug 23 19:02:55 MDT 2017
Ah, got it. Looks like I didn't get the original photos; at least, it's
not in my mail folders. Thanks for the explanation (and patience).
Bob
On 8/23/2017 5:25 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Have a look at the second picture in my original post - the file name
> ends in 667. It's a mock up of the setup on the bench. The dial
> indicator is mounted to a magnetic base which is attached to the brake
> rotor. The tip of the indicator rests on the outside face of the long
> nut. You're right the nut doesn't move, that's the reference. The
> indicator will move when you move the brake rotor in and out,
> indicating the amount of end float.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 08/23/2017 07:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> I'm missing something ... the nut won't move regardless of end float
>> (the hub and rotor will, though).
>>
>> We are talking about the large castellated nut that should be
>> seriously torqued, right?
>>
>>
>> On 8/23/2017 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long
>>> nut.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>>
>>> On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that
>>>> sticks out the hub.'
>>>>
>>>> Why? The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on.
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>>>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure
>>>>> the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor
>>>>> with a magnetic base. I made a long "nut", replacing the
>>>>> castellated axle nut, that sticks out the hub.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob Haskell
>>>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>>>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>>>>
>>>>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you
>>>>>> are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I
>>>>>> got the 0.003"). Thanks for pointing this out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a
>>>>>>> bigger garage.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub
>>>>>>> assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance
>>>>>>> if you have his tech tips. Set the end-float without any grease
>>>>>>> in the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off). I spray
>>>>>>> a little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can’t bear to
>>>>>>> spin them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the
>>>>>>> feel you need to get no end-play. On first assembly, leave the
>>>>>>> shims out and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there
>>>>>>> is noticeable drag. I like to get quite a bit of drag, but
>>>>>>> without locking it up. This seats the bearings. Then
>>>>>>> disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until
>>>>>>> there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag. For those of us
>>>>>>> who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several
>>>>>>> times until you are convinced you have it right. Then, take it
>>>>>>> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.
>>>>>>> The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a
>>>>>>> BT7). I always spin the hub while tightening. This will lock
>>>>>>> the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the
>>>>>>> swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous
>>>>>>> text). The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub
>>>>>>> and turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the
>>>>>>> spacer (which would tear it to bits in a few miles).
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mirek
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On
>>>>>>> Behalf Of *Bob Spidell
>>>>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>>>>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Couple things:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the
>>>>>>> spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub
>>>>>>> axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please
>>>>>>> correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks
>>>>>>> the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in
>>>>>>> my Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs,
>>>>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with
>>>>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).
>>>>>>> They must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.
>>>>>>> I'm thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces? Don’t under-estimate
>>>>>>> their importance. When fully tightened with zero
>>>>>>> end-float, the
>>>>>>> “tube” created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>>>>>>> races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression
>>>>>>> against the
>>>>>>> hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>>>>>>> the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct
>>>>>>> procedure
>>>>>>> is not followed, as we all know.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I
>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>> re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or
>>>>>>> creased. Also, I try to use the combination of thickest
>>>>>>> shims I can to
>>>>>>> remove end-float. It should not matter as they are in
>>>>>>> compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket
>>>>>>> break up
>>>>>>> once with dire consequences. In that application, the
>>>>>>> engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were
>>>>>>> used
>>>>>>> to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was
>>>>>>> 0.002”.
>>>>>>> I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>>>>>>> amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>>>>>>> thing to pieces. When I rebuild it I worked out the
>>>>>>> thickness of
>>>>>>> shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick
>>>>>>> shim for
>>>>>>> me. Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>>>>>>> you have an A10 ….
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Mirek
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On
>>>>>>> Behalf
>>>>>>> Of *Simon Lachlan
>>>>>>> *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>>>>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be
>>>>>>> replacing
>>>>>>> the bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in.
>>>>>>> (Won’t
>>>>>>> be long!)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>>>>>>> others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse
>>>>>>> some/all
>>>>>>> of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new
>>>>>>> ones?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>>>>>>> provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first
>>>>>>> place,
>>>>>>> the old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
>>>>>>> technical packing pieces???
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Simon
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
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