[Healeys] Shims

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Wed Aug 23 19:02:55 MDT 2017

Ah, got it.  Looks like I didn't get the original photos; at least, it's 
not in my mail folders.  Thanks for the explanation (and patience).


On 8/23/2017 5:25 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
> Have a look at the second picture in my original post - the file name 
> ends in 667.  It's a mock up of the setup on the bench.  The dial 
> indicator is mounted to a magnetic base which is attached to the brake 
> rotor.  The tip of the indicator rests on the outside face of the long 
> nut.  You're right the nut doesn't move, that's the reference.  The 
> indicator will move when you move the brake rotor in and out, 
> indicating the amount of end float.
> Cheers,
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
> On 08/23/2017 07:16 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> I'm missing something ... the nut won't move regardless of end float 
>> (the hub and rotor will, though).
>> We are talking about the large castellated nut that should be 
>> seriously torqued, right?
>> On 8/23/2017 4:13 PM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>> Bob,
>>> The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long 
>>> nut.
>>> Cheers,
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>> On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that 
>>>> sticks out the hub.'
>>>> Why?  The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on.
>>>> Bob
>>>> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>>>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure 
>>>>> the end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor 
>>>>> with a magnetic base.  I made a long "nut", replacing the 
>>>>> castellated axle nut, that sticks out the hub.
>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>> Bob Haskell
>>>>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>>>>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>>>>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you 
>>>>>> are correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I 
>>>>>> got the 0.003").  Thanks for pointing this out.
>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a 
>>>>>>> bigger garage.
>>>>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub 
>>>>>>> assemble. Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance 
>>>>>>> if you have his tech tips.  Set the end-float without any grease 
>>>>>>> in the bearings (and therefore leave the oil seal off).  I spray 
>>>>>>> a little WD-40 or equivalent on the bearing as I can’t bear to 
>>>>>>> spin them when dry, but the WD-40 does not interfere with the 
>>>>>>> feel you need to get no end-play.   On first assembly, leave the 
>>>>>>> shims out and tighten the nut while spinning the hub until there 
>>>>>>> is noticeable drag.   I like to get quite a bit of drag, but 
>>>>>>> without locking it up.  This seats the bearings. Then 
>>>>>>> disassemble and reassemble, adding and subtracting shims until 
>>>>>>> there is no perceptible end-float, but no drag.  For those of us 
>>>>>>> who do not do it for a living, be patient and go over it several 
>>>>>>> times until you are convinced you have it right.   Then, take it 
>>>>>>> apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and re-assemble it.  
>>>>>>> The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at least for a 
>>>>>>> BT7).  I always spin the hub while tightening.  This will lock 
>>>>>>> the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression to the 
>>>>>>> swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous 
>>>>>>> text). The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub 
>>>>>>> and turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the 
>>>>>>> spacer (which would tear it to bits in a few miles).
>>>>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>>>>>> Cheers,
>>>>>>> Mirek
>>>>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On 
>>>>>>> Behalf Of *Bob Spidell
>>>>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>>>>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>>>>>> Couple things:
>>>>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the 
>>>>>>> spec is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub 
>>>>>>> axles, to allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please 
>>>>>>> correct me if I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>>>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks 
>>>>>>> the inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>>>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>>>>>> Bob
>>>>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in 
>>>>>>> my Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, 
>>>>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with 
>>>>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course). 
>>>>>>> They must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.  
>>>>>>> I'm thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>>>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>>>>     “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces?  Don’t under-estimate
>>>>>>>     their importance.  When fully tightened with zero 
>>>>>>> end-float,  the
>>>>>>>     “tube” created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>>>>>>>     races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression 
>>>>>>> against the
>>>>>>>     hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>>>>>>>     the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct 
>>>>>>> procedure
>>>>>>>     is not followed, as we all know.
>>>>>>>     If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I 
>>>>>>> will
>>>>>>>     re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or 
>>>>>>> creased.     Also, I try to use the combination of thickest 
>>>>>>> shims I can to
>>>>>>>     remove end-float.  It should not matter as they are in
>>>>>>>     compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket 
>>>>>>> break up
>>>>>>>     once with dire consequences.  In that application, the
>>>>>>>     engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were 
>>>>>>> used
>>>>>>>     to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 
>>>>>>> 0.002”.
>>>>>>>     I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>>>>>>>     amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>>>>>>>     thing to pieces.  When I rebuild it I worked out the 
>>>>>>> thickness of
>>>>>>>     shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick 
>>>>>>> shim for
>>>>>>>     me.  Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>>>>>>>     you have an A10 ….
>>>>>>>     Mirek
>>>>>>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On 
>>>>>>> Behalf
>>>>>>>     Of *Simon Lachlan
>>>>>>>     *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>>>>>>>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>>>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>>>>>>     Hi,
>>>>>>>     With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be 
>>>>>>> replacing
>>>>>>>     the bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. 
>>>>>>> (Won’t
>>>>>>>     be long!)
>>>>>>>     Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>>>>>>>     others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse 
>>>>>>> some/all
>>>>>>>     of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new 
>>>>>>> ones?
>>>>>>>     As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>>>>>>>     provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first 
>>>>>>> place,
>>>>>>>     the old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
>>>>>>>     technical packing pieces???
>>>>>>>     As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>>>>>>     Simon

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