[Healeys] Shims

Bob Haskell rchaskell at earthlink.net
Wed Aug 23 17:13:49 MDT 2017


The dial test indicator's tip rests on the outside face of the long nut.


Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 MkI registrar

On 08/23/2017 12:00 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> '... I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle nut, that 
> sticks out the hub.'
> Why?  The 'stock' nut is easy enough to get a socket on.
> Bob
> On 8/23/2017 2:59 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>> After seating the bearings, I'll put too many shims in and measure the 
>> end float with a dial indicator mounted on the brake rotor with a 
>> magnetic base.  I made a long "nut", replacing the castellated axle 
>> nut, that sticks out the hub.
>> Cheers,
>> Bob Haskell
>> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
>> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>> On 08/23/2017 12:30 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> OK, I finally got off my duff and RTFM'd the Bentley manual; you are 
>>> correct that there should be no end float (don't know where I got the 
>>> 0.003").  Thanks for pointing this out.
>>> Bob
>>> On 8/22/2017 6:06 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>> For sure a Fairchild A10 would be a blast, but I would need a bigger 
>>>> garage.
>>>> There should be no perceptible end-float in the front hub assemble. 
>>>> Follow the factory workshop, or Norm Nock’s guidance if you have his 
>>>> tech tips.  Set the end-float without any grease in the bearings 
>>>> (and therefore leave  the oil seal off).  I spray a little WD-40 or 
>>>> equivalent on the bearing as I can’t bear to spin them when dry, but 
>>>> the WD-40 does not interfere with the feel you need to get no 
>>>> end-play.   On first assembly, leave the shims out and tighten the 
>>>> nut while spinning the hub until there is noticeable drag.   I like 
>>>> to get quite a bit of drag, but without locking it up.  This seats 
>>>> the bearings. Then disassemble and reassemble, adding and 
>>>> subtracting shims until there is no perceptible end-float, but no 
>>>> drag.  For those of us who do not do it for a living, be patient and 
>>>> go over it several times until you are convinced you have it 
>>>> right.   Then, take it apart, pack the bearings, put the seal in and 
>>>> re-assemble it.  The nut gets torqued to between 40 and 70 lb/ft (at 
>>>> least for a BT7).  I always spin the hub while tightening.  This 
>>>> will lock the inner bearing races, spacer, and shims in compression 
>>>> to the swivel axle (I think I mis-spoke and said hub in my previous 
>>>> text).  The oil seal does not get affected as it is in the hub and 
>>>> turns on the polished boss on the swivel axle, not the spacer (which 
>>>> would tear it to bits in a few miles).
>>>> Now I want to go searching for Warthog videos.
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Mirek
>>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>>>> *Bob Spidell
>>>> *Sent:* August-22-17 10:43 AM
>>>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Shims
>>>> Couple things:
>>>> 1) I'm too lazy to fetch my Bentley (manual), but I think the spec 
>>>> is 0.003"--i.e. just a smidge--of end float on the stub axles, to 
>>>> allow for expansion of the bearings when warm. Please correct me if 
>>>> I'm wrong as I'm going into my axles soon.
>>>> 2) putting all in compression--a lot of compression--also locks the 
>>>> inner spacer--the one the seal rides on, lest it spin
>>>> 3) I would love to have a Warthog (A-10)*
>>>> Bob
>>>> * Many years ago, I was preparing to depart Burbank airport in my 
>>>> Cherokee, there was a couple of spotless, sparkling Warthogs, 
>>>> resplendent in an (almost) BRG paint, parked on the ramp, with 
>>>> canopies up and flight ladder extended (pre 9/11, of course).  They 
>>>> must have been coming from or going to a nearby airshow.  I'm 
>>>> thinking, 'Gee, I wonder if they left the keys in ...'
>>>> On 8/21/2017 9:03 PM, Mirek Sharp wrote:
>>>>     “Only” somewhat technical packing pieces?  Don’t under-estimate
>>>>     their importance.  When fully tightened with zero end-float,  the
>>>>     “tube” created around the stub axle created by putting, inner
>>>>     races, spacer, shims, washer and nut into compression against the
>>>>     hub act as a structural member and take some of the load off of
>>>>     the stub axle, which is prone to cracking if the correct procedure
>>>>     is not followed, as we all know.
>>>>     If I do not have the correct new shim that I need to hand, I will
>>>>     re-use old ones providing they have not been battered or 
>>>> creased.     Also, I try to use the combination of thickest shims I 
>>>> can to
>>>>     remove end-float.  It should not matter as they are in
>>>>     compression, but I had a crank shim in my BSA Road Rocket break up
>>>>     once with dire consequences.  In that application,  the
>>>>     engineering, in my opinion, is a bit dodgy as the shims were used
>>>>     to set end-float on the crank, which I seem to recall was 0.002”.
>>>>     I had included a thin shim in the combination and that small
>>>>     amount of movement, at engine speeds, was enough to pound the
>>>>     thing to pieces.  When I rebuild it I worked out the thickness of
>>>>     shims needed and had a machinist surface grind one thick shim for
>>>>     me.  Not necessary for the Healey wheel bearings, but if any of
>>>>     you have an A10 ….
>>>>     Mirek
>>>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf
>>>>     Of *Simon Lachlan
>>>>     *Sent:* August-21-17 6:49 AM
>>>>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Shims
>>>>     Hi,
>>>>     With reference to front wheel bearing shims, I shall be replacing
>>>>     the bearings in my MkII’s front RHS when winter has set in. (Won’t
>>>>     be long!)
>>>>     Anyhow, I’ve half a pack of unused shims left and there will be
>>>>     others in the hub. Is there any reason why I can’t reuse some/all
>>>>     of the old ones &/or mix and match them with some of the new ones?
>>>>     As I see it, we use the shims to get the correct end float so,
>>>>     provided the shims’ metallurgy(?) was correct in the first place,
>>>>     the old one will still be good to go??? They’re only somewhat
>>>>     technical packing pieces???
>>>>     As ever, I stand ready to be corrected.
>>>>     Simon
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