[Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8

Sat Apr 15 23:13:39 MDT 2017

Bob, your post is of interest.  I just sent my engine to the painter today
with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching pushrods; and
DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5" clutch.  Already had the DWR high capacity
oil pump.  Plus new DWR reverse, 1st and cluster gears and all new synchros.
I'm keeping the stock intake and exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs.  My
car was originally a non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear.
Really looking forward to experiencing how it will drive.

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8

Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the lower
torque curve is helpful.

On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:

Hi Dave,

I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K miles--was in
similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe and lifter wear.  I
installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if you're really ' looking for
stock or mild tune only.'   The DWR1 is 'slightly better than stock', in
DWR's word's, and should be most appropriate for a street/touring car as the
torque curve is lower.  I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the
DWR8 unless you at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's
alloy heads--and then additional tuning is required.  Steve G.--on this
list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has headers and
the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher torque/power band.
The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, but I do mostly long
distance touring so I'm usually running 2,500RPM, give-or-take.  I do a lot
of driving '100 miles from nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my
drivetrain.

DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their gun-drilled
cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in which case you'll
probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, pistons, etc.).  Since you
had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean all components--e.g. rocker
shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris.  My builder was adamant about that.
You can use either 'standard' lifters with your current pushrods, or get
bucket lifters and their pushrods.  I went with standard.  I sourced an
adjustable, vernier timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did
require some adjustment.

DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of course,
there's a significant time difference.  Whichever cam you use, please let us
know your results.

Bob

On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM, drmasucci at comcast.net <mailto:drmasucci at comcast.net>
wrote:

Hi All,

Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 engine.
The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a full resto of the
car, I decided to take a look at the engine. While all other parameters were
well within spec, the cam and lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know
much about modern oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part
of the engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why.

So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam reground, or buy
new. Since I believe it was already reground and based on the wear, I am
thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am looking for stock or mild tune
only. 

I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new to the
process. I know that if I change something like the cam parameters, I need
to understand how that affects the rest of the valve train. I looking for
guidance on selecting the right components.

I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I understand that I
will have to machine pockets into the block for valve clearance. I will be
having the head rebuilt to basic stock parameters as far as the valve gear
is concerned. I need to determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since
this cam is drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other
modifications to support that feature? 

So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. Has
anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey?  Any opinions,
cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my best choice? Also
if there are better options to consider I'd like to hear that also. 

As usual, thanks in advance for any help.

Dave

64 BJ8

72 XJ6

72 Bonneville

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