[Healeys] Gearbox oil

[WILLIAM B LAWRENCE]

EP lubes are formulated with an anti-friction additive especially for use in hypoid gear sets. That is because hypoid gears use a sliding contact rather than a rolling contact and the EP additive is required eliminate friction and to allow them to survive in use.


EP lubes should not be used in mechanisms that require built in friction to operate properly such as synchronizer rings in transmissions or limited slip differentials.


Detergents in oils are intended to suspend microscopic contaminants such as soot particles in engine oil so it doesn't settle out and form deposits in oil passages. I will not suspend large particles such as brass or iron filings.


Bill Lawrence

BN1#554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2016 9:24:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil

If there are bronze/brass baulk/synchro rings in the gearbox it is best to be on the safe side and not use EP oils that contain halogens F, Cl, Br, I as these may attack the bronze/brass components. Sunbeam for that matter stipulated to use SEA 30 or 20W50 engine oil. I do not see a reason to take the risk using EP oils. They do not ad much if anything. Straight or detergent containing does not matter much if you change the oil on a regular basis as prescribed in those days. Oil is cheap so I change the oil in my gearbox every time I change the engine oil, i.e. once a year. Use a drain plug with a magnet.

Modern gearboxes may not even have a drain plug as the oil is never changed and we have become used to that!

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 2-11-2016 om 1:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:
30wt non detergent.
Drips? Hard to tell but I don’t think so. Certainly no more than before.
Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on previous 20/50.
Better for the gearbox’s internals? The jury remains out on that one!
Worth it? Well there’s nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if you’re draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD changes...might help.
Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you’ve got the filter and the magnets. Doesn’t make much difference what oil you use if they’re missing.
2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the earlier one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that’s done, the whole process becomes much easier.

Steve’s right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.
You’ll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings out some fairly spirited remarks!?
Simon

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: 01 November 2016 18:20
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil

I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely.  Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.

Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not work for others.
On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:

Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions.  I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive.  Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC


From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM
To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil

Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.

Regards,

Charlie Schott


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