[Healeys] Trunk/boot lip rivets

[Michael Salter]

Hi Andy,
Some more information.
I used Spae Naur 286-011 flat head rivets
http://www.spaenaur.com/catalog/#E4 and Vicegrip 11R pliers [image: IRWIN
VISE-GRIP - Locking C-Clamp, 11 in., 2-5/8 in. Throat]
I flattened the faces of the jaws a little with a grinder to prevent the
original rounded ends from slipping off the rivet.

I've probably done 20 cars this way......Kiwi ingenuity.....Easy as!!

Michael S
BN1 #174


On Fri, Jan 8, 2016 at 3:58 PM, Andy Thorp <bce257 at yahoo.co.nz> wrote:

> Thanks for the replies, I have a few ideas to try now.
>
> First is to try one of the pneumatic aircraft riveters, the reason I
> didn't consider this previously is that I had misunderstood how they are
> supposed to work. I thought the cupped setter was to make the rivet stem
> rounded once installed but this isn't right. For the flat head rivets, they
> are driven from the headed side and bucked on the stem, rather than putting
> the buck on the head and driving the hammer into the stem to secure it.
> There may be room to get one of the narrow bucks inside the trunk lip so
> that will be the first attempt. This video helps explain things a bit
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM
>
> Second attempt is to make a set of squeezer pliers out of C-type vise grip
> pliers and weld on some flat ends to squeeze up the rivets, perhaps with
> some percussive assistance.
>
>
>  "The real question comes down to
>  is it work a couple hundred dollars to be “historically
>  correct” for a few rivets?  Only you can make that
>  decision. "
>
> It isn't so much a matter of being historically correct, it is more a case
> of having to look at something for the next forty odd years and wish I'd
> taken a little more time to do it properly that one day back in 2016. The
> square headed rivets look very purposeful.
>
> Andy.
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-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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