[Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

[richard mayor]

I've been driving and racing Healeys for over 40 years.  Michael's solution
is the best!

But, you also need to weld up any ovaling in the mounting holes.

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 7:10 PM, J. Armour <sebring3000 at bigpond.com> wrote:

> Michael has a valid point. The alloy in the shock body is relatively soft
> and a small contact area under the bolt head or spring washer is
> counterproductive. A larger and close fitting washer to provide a broader
> contact area is an improvement.
> If you look up engineering manuals on the three types of design joints (
> 1.snug, 2.? Cant remember,3. high strength friction grip )with bolts you
> find that importance is paid to having the mating surfaces flat and
> parallel to each other and clean. ( trust me don’t assume they are, check)
> Preferred tightening method in engineering is tighten the bolt snug (
> lightly tight and without clearance between the mating surfaces including
> washers and then tighten the nut a set degree to ensure the bolt has been
> stretched.(Torque is a general indicator of bolt stretch but friction,
> mis-alignment and soft commercial washers etc can make torque readings very
> mis-leading.)  This is where to issue of 'soft' alloy bodies raise their
> head and thus the bigger hard washer surface area requirement .
>
> Joe
>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight
>
> Probably more work than most people would want to undertake but, because
> for competition work I found that washers eventually dig into the ears, I
> cut a "washer" the same shape as the shock "ear" out of 3/16" steel plate
> and then put the bolt through it and tacked the head of the bolt to my
> "washer".
> This method has the added advantage that you don't need to hold the bolt
> head while tightening the nut.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Sun, Jan 3, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Seeking ideas on how to keep the rear shock mount bolts tight.  They work
>> loose every 1,500 to 2,000 miles, and tightening them is routine with my
>> annual maintenance.  I currently have grade 8 bolts, nuts and split
>> washers.  Grade 5 bolts, nuts, and split washers were no worse (or better)
>> than the grade 8.  Tried Nord-Lock washers 2 years ago after someone posted
>> about them on this list.  They loosened more quickly than split washers.
>> Tried thread locker and nylocks as well, neither of which were better than
>> split washers.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anyone have a method that actually keeps the hardware tight?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bruce Steele
>>
>> Brea, CA
>>
>> 1960 BN7
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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