[Healeys] Oil

Stephen Hutchings s.hutchings at rogers.com
Sun Aug 28 17:34:27 MDT 2016 

This one interests me, I'm running a new cam and followed the 2000 for twenty minutes rule. 
I had occasion to inspect the back half of the engine lifters, and on some of them the oil wear pattern led me to believe that they weren't rotating.I could be wrong, but it seems that if there's a rectangular pattern, then the cam lobe is wiping the same area- if it was rotating the pattern would be circular. I've been thinking about running the engine the way Michael describes, but given his experience-what's the point?The new car procedure (BMW, etc.) is describing cars that have quite different cam/ valve gear from our cars, though.
Stephen, BJ8


      From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
 To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> 
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
 Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2016 3:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil
   
Jean, although the 2000 RPM for 20 minutes may be an industry standard on rebuilds I have visited a number of new car assembly plants including Viper, Nissan and BMW MINI and the cars there are started normally (first time for the engine at least in the case of the MINI) and casually driven to an inspection area  where they idle for a couple of minutes while various systems are checked then to a storage area turned off... 
I'm wondering if "industry standard" may be a different way of saying "because that's what my mother did".:-)
I have actually run a few engines with the side covers off to check the tappet rotation. In most cases at least some of the tappets do not rotate and no amount of revving or trying to encourage them with long nose pliers seems to make any difference. 
M

On Sun, Aug 28, 2016 at 1:35 PM, Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

Talked to a guy that has rebuilt and is still rebuilding a lot of engine and he said that the 2000 rpm is an industry standard and is so that the lifters do not only have to go up and down but spin around in their bore. At lower RPM they may not turn enough and it is also not recommended to go above 2000 RPM as the engine is not under load.

Jean


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team. net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: August 28, 2016 2:56 AM
To: michael.salter at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil "... why the 2000 RPM?"Good question.  Only explanation I've ever seen is you need plenty of oil splashing around but, as you said, there would be at idle.  I'll take a SWAG that maybe you need some revs to load up the valve springs to apply sufficient pressure to the came lobes and lifters, to 'finish machine' them together.   Sort of like--esp. for aircraft piston engines--you need high BMEP to bed the rings.bs

On 8/27/2016 6:21 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote:

I have also always done that, in the belief that the RPM was necessary to ensure that lots of oil was splashing around.
However at 10 revolutions per second (600 RPM) there has to be tons of oil whizzing around in the crankcase so why the 2000 RPM?
M



On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 8:44 PM -0400, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:


Thanks, Kees.

I'm hearing/reading everywhere that the proper procedure for bedding-in 
cams and lifters is to run at 2,000 RPM give-or-take for 20 minutes.

bs


On 8/27/2016 11:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing 
> surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first 
> start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than 
> idle the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed 
> and load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the 
> prescribed oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and 
> filled up with fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate 
> loads, oil and filter change after which speed and load were gradually 
> increased until about 5000miles before full speed and load were 
> applied. After a rebuild I never encountered any other wear issues on 
> any engine. Some engines did more than 250.000 miles after that. The 
> only thing that wore were the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and 
> valves/seats.
> This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a 
> different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never 
> went beyond the original procedure.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:
>>
>> Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long thread 
>> on the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from you):
>>
>> http://www.britishcarforum. com/bcf/showthread.php?105991- Very-interesting-very-long- blog-posting-racing-oil-and- zinc
>>
>> This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:
>>
>> http://www.corvetteforum.com/ forums/c3-tech-performance/ 3266544-zinc-myth-and-test- data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html
>>
>> This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's 
>> engine in the near future.  I've run it on off-the-shelf dino 
>> 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K 
>> miles so it will be interesting to see what the internals look like 
>> now (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has caused 
>> in the intake system).  #2 has low compression and we'll see if cam 
>> lobe wear is the cause.
>>
>> Agree with Chris on the cam lube.  I bought a bunch of GM EOS 
>> assembly lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down the 
>> pushrod tubes before first startup.  Thoughts (of course, I'll use 
>> assembly lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?
>>
>> Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which they 
>> say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated 
>> internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes.  I'll probably 
>> also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom to 
>> supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.
>>
>> I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on 
>> engine assembly and break-in.  I'm going all-in on this 
>> rebuild--it'll be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants a 
>> friend of his who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work ($$$).
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>

______________________________ _________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate. html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/michaelsalter@ gmail.com





______________________________ _________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate. html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/ listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/ options/healeys/michaelsalter@ gmail.com






-- 
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings@rogers.com



   
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20160828/e198b160/attachment.html>

More information about the Healeys mailing list