bspidell at comcast.net
Sat Aug 27 20:56:38 MDT 2016
"... why the 2000 RPM?"
Good question. Only explanation I've ever seen is you need plenty of
oil splashing around but, as you said, there would be at idle. I'll
take a SWAG that maybe you need some revs to load up the valve springs
to apply sufficient pressure to the came lobes and lifters, to 'finish
machine' them together. Sort of like--esp. for aircraft piston
engines--you need high BMEP to bed the rings.
On 8/27/2016 6:21 PM, michael.salter at gmail.com wrote:
> I have also always done that, in the belief that the RPM was necessary
> to ensure that lots of oil was splashing around.
> However at 10 revolutions per second (600 RPM) there has to be tons of
> oil whizzing around in the crankcase so why the 2000 RPM?
> On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 8:44 PM -0400, "Bob Spidell"
> <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
> Thanks, Kees.
> I'm hearing/reading everywhere that the proper procedure for bedding-in
> cams and lifters is to run at 2,000 RPM give-or-take for 20 minutes.
> On 8/27/2016 11:32 AM, Oudesluys wrote:
> > When rebuilding engines I have always thickly coated the bearing
> > surfaces, and cam lobes using Graphite or Molybdenium grease. At first
> > start up I disconnect the ignition until I have oil pressure, than
> > idle the engine until warm after which I would drive at moderate speed
> > and load for about 100miles. Never used running in oil , just the
> > prescribed oil. Then drained the oil and fitted a new filter and
> > filled up with fresh oil. Again another few thousand miles at moderate
> > loads, oil and filter change after which speed and load were gradually
> > increased until about 5000miles before full speed and load were
> > applied. After a rebuild I never encountered any other wear issues on
> > any engine. Some engines did more than 250.000 miles after that. The
> > only thing that wore were the cylinder walls/rings/pistons and
> > valves/seats.
> > This is for road cars. Racing/rally cars are supposed to need a
> > different approach, however even with engines that were raced I never
> > went beyond the original procedure.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> > Op 27-8-2016 om 18:36 schreef Bob Spidell:
> >> Don't know if you know it, Michael, but you 'started' a long thread
> >> on the Forum about this (Steve Gerow re-posted a link he got from you):
> >> http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?105991-Very-interesting-very-long-blog-posting-racing-oil-and-zinc
> >> This guy's research, while impressive, has been disputed here:
> >> http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3266544-zinc-myth-and-test-data-on-a-dozen-more-oils.html
> >> This is of major interest to me, as I'll be rebuilding my BJ8's
> >> engine in the near future. I've run it on off-the-shelf dino
> >> 20W-50--Castrol, Chevron (mostly) and Valvoline--for almost 120K
> >> miles so it will be interesting to see what the internals look like
> >> now (also want to see what deposits, if any, the PCV valve has caused
> >> in the intake system). #2 has low compression and we'll see if cam
> >> lobe wear is the cause.
> >> Agree with Chris on the cam lube. I bought a bunch of GM EOS
> >> assembly lube way back when and I'm tempted to pour a bottle down the
> >> pushrod tubes before first startup. Thoughts (of course, I'll use
> >> assembly lube on the cam and all moving surfaces)?
> >> Also, I'm leaning towards buying a cam from Denis Welch, which they
> >> say is 'gun-drilled' which, I presume, means the cam is lubricated
> >> internally and supplies a stream of oil to the lobes. I'll probably
> >> also go with their bucket lifters which have a hole on the bottom to
> >> supply yet more oil to the lifter-lobe surfaces.
> >> I'm interested in hearing any and all thoughts and experiences on
> >> engine assembly and break-in. I'm going all-in on this
> >> rebuild--it'll be the last for this car (I hope)--and my dad wants a
> >> friend of his who owns a racing engine shop to do the major work ($$$).
> >> Bob
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