[Healeys] Jet-coating, wrap or do nothing to stainless headers?

[Richard Collins]

Thanks Kees,
I'll crank it up a bit. Not sure yet of the PSI at the moment with the electric fuel pump.

Regards,
Richard of KY
BN7 #440


On Nov 20, 2015, at 03:23, Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl<mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:

May be you should check the pressure delivered to the carbs. The pressure regulator may be set to low, hence vapour lock. You can also run a return fuel pipe/hose from the carbs to the fuel tank incorporating a restrictor to keep fuel in circulation and thus cool.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 20-11-2015 om 0:01 schreef Richard Collins:
It's a good idea. My BN7 has become almost impossible. To drive in the summer except at speed on highways. Vapor lock is a huge problem although my fuel lines are not all that close to the manifold, coming into the front of the SU's via a regulator.
I have a shield I hope to put on soon to help. Fall winter and spring days are no issue.

Regards,
Richard C


On Nov 19, 2015, at 11:43, "ATIGHTPROD at aol.com<mailto:ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>" <<mailto:ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>ATIGHTPROD at aol.com<mailto:ATIGHTPROD at aol.com>> wrote:

Heat and this ethanol fuel is a definite problem with my BN1 and I'm sure the same happens with BN2's also and from what Keith is saying, it seems to also affect six cylinder folks as well. From what I heard, a lower boiling point for the fuel has a lot to do with why the "vapor lock" symptoms occur.
This is how I solved my problem with that happening while stuck in traffic, starting up after sitting for a short time after a hot run, etc.


<mime-attachment.jpg>
This is a marine bilge fan I got off ebay, painted flat black and wired in next to my radiator for easy removal and no holes drilled. 3" flex off both sides, front goes to right behind grille and sucks cold air in. Rear goes right to front float bowl.


<IMG_2579.JPG>
Better view of install. Simple. My car is a driver and I had a terrible time with these new fuels, so the sight of the install doesn't bother me as it solved all those problems.


<IMG_2580.JPG>
The 3" flex is bent and pulled right to the float bowl. If I sit, I turn the fan on from a switch inside the cockpit and let it run for about 30 seconds before firing up and now problem. When stuck in traffic, flick the switch and instant cold air stops vapor lock. When going down the road, flip the switch and the fan turns off.




Steven Kingsbury
BN1 #598


In a message dated 11/15/2015 8:15:42 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, mottman55 at gmail.com<mailto:mottman55 at gmail.com> writes:
This is a really interesting survey, but what about paint?  I have a set of mild steel headers that I plan to put on a bugeye I'm restoring.  I don't really want to leave them bare, and I was planning on painting them with high-temp paint.

On a slightly different note, my experience with heat and rough running in my BT7 is exactly the same as Bob's.  I have come to accept that it is 'normal' behavior for these cars although I've always wondered about wrapping the the exhaust manifold to decrease the heat load on the carbs.

Keith

On Sun, Nov 15, 2015 at 3:11 AM, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk<mailto:simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>> wrote:
I have stainless headers going down into a big bore(?) exhaust.
Opinions seem to vary as to the merits of wrapping, coating or doing nothing to them .
I have Webers above them, but I suspect, in my ignorance, that these are maybe less prone to evaporation issues than SUs.
What does the panel think?
See attached for a well researched synopsis. (Not by me!)
Simon

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