[Healeys] Splines and Wheels

Roger Grace roggrace at telus.net
Mon Nov 9 16:54:24 MST 2015


All good points and noted.
I am now of the opinion that when the spline play appears to be reduced by tightening the knock on it is really just clamping it against the rear cone. This surely must be a good thing eliminating the play and providing some resistance before the splines come into play. So, notwithstanding what Dave said about grease I will keep the rear cones dry. There should be no movement so need for any lubrication. The splines only should be greased to to prevent sticking. See link to MWS site on this topic.
Also to assist tightening the knock nut, on will grease the outside cone lightly. 
rg

http://www.mwsint.com/site/cms/contentCategoryView.asp?category=214


From: J. Armour 
Sent: Saturday, November 7, 2015 3:17 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Splines and Wheels

Blokes
I firmly believe that only the splines do the transmission of acceleration and braking torque. The knock-off clamps the wheel in place and the two cones within the wheel hub/splines centralises the wheel. I once had a knock-off come off and the wheel still turned with the hub and slowed under braking.
Splines require the minimum of clearance to eliminate the fretting caused when the wheel rocks back and forward on the hub. You can purchase an anti-fretting grease.
I agree that it is almost impossible to eliminate clearance within the the spline to spline fit otherwise we would not be able to remove them easily.
A loose knock-off allows the wheel to become off centre and then with each rotation the wheel will 'walk' or rotate on a different centre to the hub/axle centre. The splines with their clearance will not keep the wheel centralised due to the built in clearance. This will create excessive wear on both sets of splines.
I also agree that the Left and Right hand thread system is to counter-act wheels coming loose but I find it hard to accept that this system will tighten an already loose knock-off. It is also important to tighten wheels with NO weight on them that is with the wheel raised off the ground. This allows the wheel to easily centralise on the cones/tapers before final hammer tightening. Remember if you do not have a flat spot on the top of the splines you have worn or badly made splines. Also it is unwise to expect a long life from the splines when new are fitted to old (worn)
The manufacturing process of the axle hub – machined, and the softer wheel centre hub splines maybe made with a broaching process raises the question of which component will be manufactured more accurately. Their fit and clearance is critical to their life. Material hardness is also important and lubrication adds value.
Over the years I have seen some radical home-made fixes for worn splines down to no splines.
Your comments


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