[Healeys] Door Trim
John and Judy Carter
jc9821 at msn.com
Sun Jun 28 12:47:58 MDT 2015
Thanks for all the help with finding the source for door trim. John
> From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 182
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2015 12:00:01 -0600
>
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> healeys at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> healeys-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> healeys-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. California Legacy License Plate program (Rohan Marr)
> 2. Door Trim (John and Judy Carter)
> 3. Re: California Legacy License Plate program (Alan Seigrist)
> 4. Re: Door Trim (I Erbs)
> 5. Re: California Legacy License Plate program (I Erbs)
> 6. Re: Door Trim (Earl Kagna)
> 7. Re: Door Trim (Stephen Hutchings)
> 8. Re: California Legacy License Plate program (Bob Spidell)
> 9. Headlight relay kit (Elton Schulz)
> 10. Re: Door Trim (Elton Schulz)
> 11. Re: Door Trim (Robert Hughes)
> 12. Re: California Legacy License Plate program (Alan Seigrist)
> 13. Re: California Legacy License Plate program (I Erbs)
> 14. Re: Headlight relay kit (Alan Seigrist)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 16:41:31 -0700
> From: Rohan Marr <rohanmarr at mac.com>
> To: Austin Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] California Legacy License Plate program
> Message-ID: <9072EE8A-957A-4B7B-AB46-694CACA8D690 at mac.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Apologies if this has already been discussed, but I found this today and as an owner of an original ?black plated? California car. I have mixed feelings on this one. Firstly it is worth reading up on the announcement and links:
>
> Classic California License Plates to Hit Streets this Summer: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/newsrel/newsrel15/2015_41 <https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/newsrel/newsrel15/2015_41>
> CA DMV: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/legacyplates/index <https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/legacyplates/index>
>
> So why the mixed feelings, well original black plates had some value and meaning - the car was an original California car. Unfortunately my plates have really deteriorated, and after a few steep driveways (you know how low our cars are) I have bent them in half one by one until they broke in half. I only ever had one plate on the rear and swapped it ? the current one is hanging on by a thread. So I was looking to see if someone would reproduce them and I remember a link to someone who ?unofficially? remade them published on this list a few years ago. These new ones will reportedly use the same dye press tooling as the originals out of Folsom Prison (not sure where I read that), but unlike the original these will have a modern reflective coating and more importantly be available for use on any vehicle, both old and new, or car, truck or motorcycles. I know how I feel about a Prius with black plates!
>
> So what I really want to do is replace my plates with the same number etc with an original look, or do I want to give up on that and bite the bullet for a vanity plate with the new black?
>
> What does everyone think of this?
>
> Rohan (aka Aussie)
> ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise"
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/9fac5504/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 21:26:27 -0400
> From: John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Door Trim
> Message-ID: <SNT151-W56D574457735697B7B8753CEAB0 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround) that stays put on a BJ8 and other models?
>
> > From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600
> >
> > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> > healeys at autox.team.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > healeys-request at autox.team.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)
> > 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)
> > 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)
> > 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)
> > 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> > 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
> > 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500
> > From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
> > To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID: <026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to the shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using heat and quenching with ice water or dry ice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > 60 BT7
> >
> > 63 BJ7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt
> > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
> > To: Michael Salter
> > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> >
> >
> >
> > Micheal,
> >
> > My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
> >
> > Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
> >
> >
> >
> > This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
> >
> >
> >
> > I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth ever so slightly. If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat the heating and shock cooling process followed by the locking pliers as many times as it takes. With patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the way.
> >
> >
> >
> > I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ?? of stud proud of the manifold. All seven came out using this process.
> >
> >
> >
> > This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things easier.
> >
> > If all else fails new brackets..
> >
> > Michael S
> >
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com <mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to massive amount of force.
> > Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious repair.
> > Michael S.
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/8f09ebc5/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > Cc: "Healeys at autox.team.net" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -
> > http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
> >
> > Best of Luck,
> > Rick Neville
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> > > easier.
> > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > >
> > > Michael S
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off
> > >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract
> > >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each
> > >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
> > >> massive amount of force.
> > >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious
> > >> repair.
> > >> Michael S.
> > >> BN1 #174
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/c3abbf74/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which cushioned
> > the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:
> > <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html>
> > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> > <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj>
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/4e20450d/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700
> > From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> > To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> > <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID: <kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611 at email.android.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> >
> >
> > Food for thought.
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> >
> > -------- Original message --------
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00)
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:?http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj?
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/073f9de4/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000
> > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> > To: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID: <SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there should be no problem there. I've seen a website for Vandervell, but they are probably owned by someone else now. If they maintained their old quality and if they still make the right bearings they would be the go to source. As it is it's a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and see what they claim.
> > My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of service wouldn't quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the 88.5 mm pistons. I like the DW route because it allows them to use lighter pistons and more modern metric rings they say will cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't change unless I do cut the pistons and then it won't increase much. I'm waiting to hear what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to be decked too a lot of things might change.I haven't micced the old head gasket, but i'll need to compare it to the new one at some point. Even though I don't think I'll be driving it at high revs very much I'm still going to change out to the narrow drive belt just because I can incorporate a vibration damper.
> >
> >
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000
> > From: varley at cosmos.net.au
> > To: ynotink at msn.com
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems undersize
> > cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a problem many
> > years ago but I believe there are no problems with them now.
> > Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but they would
> > be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft iron, my car
> > had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only done 8000
> > miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it back to 3 1/2
> > using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used semi dished
> > plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia. They give a
> > final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no problem
> > with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it would only be
> > a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick composite
> > material with steel rings around the bores. As long as the pistons
> > are no more than flush with the top of the bore you should have no
> > problem.
> >
> > Hope it all works out
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Larry Varley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B
> > LAWRENCE wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the advise Larry,
> >
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I
> > don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed to be
> > or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using
> > Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I
> > suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they are
> > too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS
> > gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the top
> > of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to
> > clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty
> > thick there.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket
> > (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same
> > dimension) and check for interference and clearances with some
> > modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to head
> > dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing
> > clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any
> > information on that or on any other tricks or rules of thumb I
> > could use the info.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it
> > freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel the
> > need to change.
> >
> >
> >
> > Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a
> > lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed joints was
> > actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of the
> > head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully sealed
> > although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal. I
> > think I overextended the garter spring while I was assembling
> > it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to manipulate
> > the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before I lay
> > it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think
> > about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on the end
> > plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most don't.
> > Extra support there would be a good thing.
> >
> >
> >
> > Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running
> > into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine
> > bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King, but I
> > don't know anything about them and I would want the same for
> > the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or similar
> > quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen don't
> > include the A90 engine.
> >
> >
> >
> > Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the
> > help I can get.
> >
> >
> >
> > Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working on
> > the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to uphold and
> > so far mine is falling short.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> > BN1 #554
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/94f9bd54/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700
> > From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] o/d again
> > Message-ID: <20150627030425.8371.qmail at server278.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type A I am working on. all eight springs are the exact same length. 4 are yellow tipped and 4 are red tipped. the red tipped ones appear weaker than the yellow tipped ones. did laycock come up with a new technical change and not notify triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about short and long springs. the springs that were in the o/d are exactly like the ones I received today. while perusing a type A repair video I noticed that the guy doing the repair had a set of springs he was going to install that had red and yellow painted tips. appears to me that the weaker springs compress to the same tension as the stronger ones to replace short/long springs. can anyone clue me in as to what is happening.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Larry Varley
> > <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID:
> > <1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/f15139c9/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys mailing list
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > ***************************************
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/c54aef21/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2015 09:32:53 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Rohan Marr <rohanmarr at mac.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] California Legacy License Plate program
> Message-ID:
> <CAFBXTk+Poq0Xg0rJFg-012FTef8TY7=x6GQ=uc1QewzpYp59Qg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I think it's fine, they made so many of us give up our black and blue
> plates, only a handful of very stubborn enthusiasts have been able to keep
> their original plates, I had to give them up on my BJ8 when my local DMV
> refused to renew them in the 80's. So now I can go get them again for a
> small fee. CA needs the money, so this is a good way for them to raise
> money without raising taxes.
>
> On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 7:41 AM, Rohan Marr <rohanmarr at mac.com> wrote:
>
> > Apologies if this has already been discussed, but I found this today and
> > as an owner of an original ?black plated? California car. I have mixed
> > feelings on this one. Firstly it is worth reading up on the announcement
> > and links:
> >
> > Classic California License Plates to Hit Streets this Summer:
> > https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/newsrel/newsrel15/2015_41
> > CA DMV: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/legacyplates/index
> >
> > So why the mixed feelings, well original black plates had some value and
> > meaning - the car was an original California car. Unfortunately my plates
> > have really deteriorated, and after a few steep driveways (you know how low
> > our cars are) I have bent them in half one by one until they broke in half.
> > I only ever had one plate on the rear and swapped it ? the current one is
> > hanging on by a thread. So I was looking to see if someone would reproduce
> > them and I remember a link to someone who ?unofficially? remade them
> > published on this list a few years ago. These new ones will reportedly use
> > the same dye press tooling as the originals out of Folsom Prison (not sure
> > where I read that), but unlike the original these will have a modern
> > reflective coating and more importantly be available for use on any
> > vehicle, both old and new, or car, truck or motorcycles. I know how I feel
> > about a Prius with black plates!
> >
> > So what I really want to do is replace my plates with the same number etc
> > with an original look, or do I want to give up on that and bite the bullet
> > for a vanity plate with the new black?
> >
> > What does everyone think of this?
> >
> > Rohan (aka Aussie)
> > ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise"
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150628/f496fa9a/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 18:48:36 -0700
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Trim
> Message-ID:
> <CACPMnYpELFC34YU8YboW_RFMXxf4Zn2=Z33DqkjWEBQs6XGTUQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Tom Manaco
> http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/index.asp
> just bought some fro my BT7 and a friends BJ8
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>
> On Sat, Jun 27, 2015 at 6:26 PM, John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
> > What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround) that
> > stays put on a BJ8 and other models?
> >
> > > From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600
> > >
> > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> > > healeys at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > > healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > > healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> > >
> > >
> > > Today's Topics:
> > >
> > > 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)
> > > 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)
> > > 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)
> > > 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)
> > > 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> > > 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
> > > 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500
> > > From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
> > > To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > > Message-ID: <026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to the
> > shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using heat and
> > quenching with ice water or dry ice.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > 60 BT7
> > >
> > > 63 BJ7
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > Curtis Arndt
> > > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
> > > To: Michael Salter
> > > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Micheal,
> > >
> > > My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
> > >
> > > Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast
> > iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I can
> > get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud
> > then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and then
> > shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating solution like
> > "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the needle nose locking
> > pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth
> > ever so slightly. If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth the
> > rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat the heating and shock cooling
> > process followed by the locking pliers as many times as it takes. With
> > patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther
> > with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all
> > the way.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were
> > frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ?? of stud proud of the
> > manifold. All seven came out using this process.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are
> > careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
> > <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> > easier.
> > >
> > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > >
> > > Michael S
> > >
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com
> > <mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went
> > off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > > They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract
> > them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > > Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each
> > bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
> > massive amount of force.
> > > Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious
> > repair.
> > > Michael S.
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/8f09ebc5/attachment-0001.html
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400
> > > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > > Cc: "Healeys at autox.team.net" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -
> > > http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
> > >
> > > Best of Luck,
> > > Rick Neville
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
> > >
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > > > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > > > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> > > > easier.
> > > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > > >
> > > > Michael S
> > > > BN1 #174
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went
> > off
> > > >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > > >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to
> > extract
> > > >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > > >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through
> > each
> > > >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
> > > >> massive amount of force.
> > > >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very
> > tedious
> > > >> repair.
> > > >> Michael S.
> > > >> BN1 #174
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > >
> > > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > > >
> > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/c3abbf74/attachment-0001.html
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400
> > > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> > cushioned
> > > the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> > >
> > > Read more:
> > > <
> > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html
> > >
> > > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> > > <
> > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/4e20450d/attachment-0001.html
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700
> > > From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> > > To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> > > <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > > Message-ID: <kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611 at email.android.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Food for thought.
> > > Best--Michael Oritt
> > >
> > >
> > > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> > >
> > > -------- Original message --------
> > > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > > Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00)
> > > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > >
> > > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> > cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> > >
> > > Read more:?http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj?
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/073f9de4/attachment-0001.html
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000
> > > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> > > To: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > > Message-ID: <SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0 at phx.gbl>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there should be no
> > problem there. I've seen a website for Vandervell, but they are probably
> > owned by someone else now. If they maintained their old quality and if they
> > still make the right bearings they would be the go to source. As it is it's
> > a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and see what they claim.
> > > My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of service wouldn't
> > quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the 88.5 mm pistons. I like the
> > DW route because it allows them to use lighter pistons and more modern
> > metric rings they say will cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't change unless
> > I do cut the pistons and then it won't increase much. I'm waiting to hear
> > what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to be decked too a lot of
> > things might change.I haven't micced the old head gasket, but i'll need to
> > compare it to the new one at some point. Even though I don't think I'll be
> > driving it at high revs very much I'm still going to change out to the
> > narrow drive belt just because I can incorporate a vibration damper.
> > >
> > >
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000
> > > From: varley at cosmos.net.au
> > > To: ynotink at msn.com
> > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems undersize
> > > cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a problem many
> > > years ago but I believe there are no problems with them now.
> > > Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but they would
> > > be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft iron, my car
> > > had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only done 8000
> > > miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it back to 3 1/2
> > > using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used semi dished
> > > plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia. They give a
> > > final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no problem
> > > with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it would only be
> > > a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick composite
> > > material with steel rings around the bores. As long as the pistons
> > > are no more than flush with the top of the bore you should have no
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > Hope it all works out
> > >
> > > Regards
> > >
> > > Larry Varley
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B
> > > LAWRENCE wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks for the advise Larry,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I
> > > don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed to be
> > > or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using
> > > Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I
> > > suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they are
> > > too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS
> > > gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the top
> > > of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to
> > > clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty
> > > thick there.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket
> > > (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same
> > > dimension) and check for interference and clearances with some
> > > modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to head
> > > dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing
> > > clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any
> > > information on that or on any other tricks or rules of thumb I
> > > could use the info.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it
> > > freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel the
> > > need to change.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a
> > > lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed joints was
> > > actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of the
> > > head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully sealed
> > > although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal. I
> > > think I overextended the garter spring while I was assembling
> > > it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to manipulate
> > > the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before I lay
> > > it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think
> > > about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on the end
> > > plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most don't.
> > > Extra support there would be a good thing.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running
> > > into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine
> > > bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King, but I
> > > don't know anything about them and I would want the same for
> > > the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or similar
> > > quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen don't
> > > include the A90 engine.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the
> > > help I can get.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working on
> > > the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to uphold and
> > > so far mine is falling short.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill Lawrence
> > > BN1 #554
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/94f9bd54/attachment-0001.html
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 6
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700
> > > From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> > > To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: [Healeys] o/d again
> > > Message-ID: <20150627030425.8371.qmail at server278.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type A I am working
> > on. all eight springs are the exact same length. 4 are yellow tipped and 4
> > are red tipped. the red tipped ones appear weaker than the yellow tipped
> > ones. did laycock come up with a new technical change and not notify
> > triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about short and long springs. the
> > springs that were in the o/d are exactly like the ones I received today.
> > while perusing a type A repair video I noticed that the guy doing the
> > repair had a set of springs he was going to install that had red and yellow
> > painted tips. appears to me that the weaker springs compress to the same
> > tension as the stronger ones to replace short/long springs. can anyone clue
> > me in as to what is happening.
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 7
> > > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
> > > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > > To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Larry Varley
> > > <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> > >
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL: <
> > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/f15139c9/attachment-0001.html
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Subject: Digest Footer
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Healeys mailing list
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > > ***************************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/6c9cbf96/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 18:50:35 -0700
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] California Legacy License Plate program
> Message-ID:
> <CACPMnYojw6pAEdv10EOzEpjt8wAtP4gCan9vKJ4mA0S0rsnp5w at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I think I have a pair of 63 yellow and black plates. Make me a good offer
> and I'll look in the garage for them
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> _______ _______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
>
> On Sat, Jun 27, 2015 at 6:32 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I think it's fine, they made so many of us give up our black and blue
> > plates, only a handful of very stubborn enthusiasts have been able to keep
> > their original plates, I had to give them up on my BJ8 when my local DMV
> > refused to renew them in the 80's. So now I can go get them again for a
> > small fee. CA needs the money, so this is a good way for them to raise
> > money without raising taxes.
> >
> > On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 7:41 AM, Rohan Marr <rohanmarr at mac.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Apologies if this has already been discussed, but I found this today and
> >> as an owner of an original ?black plated? California car. I have mixed
> >> feelings on this one. Firstly it is worth reading up on the announcement
> >> and links:
> >>
> >> Classic California License Plates to Hit Streets this Summer:
> >> https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/newsrel/newsrel15/2015_41
> >> CA DMV: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/legacyplates/index
> >>
> >> So why the mixed feelings, well original black plates had some value and
> >> meaning - the car was an original California car. Unfortunately my plates
> >> have really deteriorated, and after a few steep driveways (you know how low
> >> our cars are) I have bent them in half one by one until they broke in half.
> >> I only ever had one plate on the rear and swapped it ? the current one is
> >> hanging on by a thread. So I was looking to see if someone would reproduce
> >> them and I remember a link to someone who ?unofficially? remade them
> >> published on this list a few years ago. These new ones will reportedly use
> >> the same dye press tooling as the originals out of Folsom Prison (not sure
> >> where I read that), but unlike the original these will have a modern
> >> reflective coating and more importantly be available for use on any
> >> vehicle, both old and new, or car, truck or motorcycles. I know how I feel
> >> about a Prius with black plates!
> >>
> >> So what I really want to do is replace my plates with the same number etc
> >> with an original look, or do I want to give up on that and bite the bullet
> >> for a vanity plate with the new black?
> >>
> >> What does everyone think of this?
> >>
> >> Rohan (aka Aussie)
> >> ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise"
> >>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/e737535f/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 19:36:57 -0700
> From: "Earl Kagna" <kags at shaw.ca>
> To: "John and Judy Carter" <jc9821 at msn.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Trim
> Message-ID: <606797BCF6F24BA8B815AF463545B0B1 at KagsLaptop>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi John ? left some of your door seal at Alderbrook, did you? Nice seeing you there.
>
> Bristleflex ? by Martin MacGregor. Autofarm in Ontario Canada stocks it. It?s far and away the best door seal I?ve used. Works even better if it?s installed correctly.
>
> Earl Kagna
> Victoria, B.C.
> BJ8, BT7 tri-carb
>
> From: John and Judy Carter
> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2015 6:26 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Door Trim
>
> What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround) that stays put on a BJ8 and other models?
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/d9928fac/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2015 03:04:32 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
> To: John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Trim
> Message-ID:
> <2008146848.1042130.1435460672496.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Martin Mcgregor has "Bristleflex", which is the superior door seal...but I was there recently and he's waiting on a new run and doesn't have it in stock at the moment.You can get contact info at MacGregor British Car PartsHowever, he tells me that the website is out of date.
> Stephen, BJ8
>
> | ? |
> | ? | | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
> | MacGregor British Car PartsNEW "BRISTLEFLEX?" DOOR SEALS Bad Doorseals? Don't Fit? Won't stay on? Doors won't shut? We've made "Bristleflex?". |
> | |
> | View on www.macgregorukcarp... | Preview by Yahoo |
> | |
> | ? |
>
>
> From: John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, June 27, 2015 9:26 PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Door Trim
>
> <!--#yiv4738352145 .yiv4738352145hmmessage P{margin:0px;padding:0px;}#yiv4738352145 body.yiv4738352145hmmessage{font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}-->What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround) that stays put ?on a BJ8 and other models?
>
> > From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600
> >
> > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> > healeys at autox.team.net
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > healeys-request at autox.team.net
> >
> > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)
> > 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)
> > 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)
> > 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)
> > 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> > 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
> > 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500
> > From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
> > To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID: <026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to the shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using heat and quenching with ice water or dry ice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > 60 BT7
> >
> > 63 BJ7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt
> > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
> > To: Michael Salter
> > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> >
> >
> >
> > Micheal,
> >
> > My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
> >
> > Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
> >
> >
> >
> > This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
> >
> >
> >
> > I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth ever so slightly. If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat the heating and shock cooling process followed by the locking pliers as many times as it takes. With patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the way.
> >
> >
> >
> > I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ?? of stud proud of the manifold. All seven came out using this process.
> >
> >
> >
> > This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things easier.
> >
> > If all else fails new brackets..
> >
> > Michael S
> >
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com <mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to massive amount of force.
> > Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious repair.
> > Michael S.
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/8f09ebc5/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > Cc: "Healeys at autox.team.net" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -
> > http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
> >
> > Best of Luck,
> > Rick Neville
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> > > easier.
> > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > >
> > > Michael S
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went off
> > >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract
> > >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each
> > >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
> > >> massive amount of force.
> > >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious
> > >> repair.
> > >> Michael S.
> > >> BN1 #174
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/c3abbf74/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which cushioned
> > the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:
> > <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html>
> > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> > <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj>
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/4e20450d/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700
> > From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> > To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> > <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID: <kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611 at email.android.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> >
> >
> > Food for thought.
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> >
> > -------- Original message --------
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00)
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:?http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj?
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/073f9de4/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000
> > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> > To: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID: <SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there should be no problem there. I've seen a website for Vandervell, but they are probably owned by someone else now. If they maintained their old quality and if they still make the right bearings they would be the go to source. As it is it's a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and see what they claim.
> > My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of service wouldn't quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the 88.5 mm pistons. I like the DW route because it allows them to use lighter pistons and more modern metric rings they say will cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't change unless I do cut the pistons and then it won't increase much. I'm waiting to hear what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to be decked too a lot of things might change.I haven't micced the old head gasket, but i'll need to compare it to the new one at some point. Even though I don't think I'll be driving it at high revs very much I'm still going to change out to the narrow drive belt just because I can incorporate a vibration damper.
> >
> >
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000
> > From: varley at cosmos.net.au
> > To: ynotink at msn.com
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems undersize
> > cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a problem many
> > years ago but I believe there are no problems with them now.
> > Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but they would
> > be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft iron, my car
> > had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only done 8000
> > miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it back to 3 1/2
> > using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used semi dished
> > plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia. They give a
> > final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no problem
> > with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it would only be
> > a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick composite
> > material with steel rings around the bores. As long as the pistons
> > are no more than flush with the top of the bore you should have no
> > problem.
> >
> > Hope it all works out
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Larry Varley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B
> > LAWRENCE wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the advise Larry,
> >
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I
> > don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed to be
> > or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using
> > Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I
> > suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they are
> > too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS
> > gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the top
> > of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to
> > clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty
> > thick there.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket
> > (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same
> > dimension) and check for interference and clearances with some
> > modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to head
> > dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing
> > clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any
> > information on that or on any other tricks or rules of thumb I
> > could use the info.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it
> > freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel the
> > need to change.
> >
> >
> >
> > Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a
> > lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed joints was
> > actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of the
> > head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully sealed
> > although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal. I
> > think I overextended the garter spring while I was assembling
> > it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to manipulate
> > the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before I lay
> > it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think
> > about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on the end
> > plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most don't.
> > Extra support there would be a good thing.
> >
> >
> >
> > Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running
> > into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine
> > bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King, but I
> > don't know anything about them and I would want the same for
> > the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or similar
> > quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen don't
> > include the A90 engine.
> >
> >
> >
> > Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the
> > help I can get.
> >
> >
> >
> > Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working on
> > the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to uphold and
> > so far mine is falling short.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> > BN1 #554
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/94f9bd54/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700
> > From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] o/d again
> > Message-ID: <20150627030425.8371.qmail at server278.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type A I am working on. all eight springs are the exact same length. 4 are yellow tipped and 4 are red tipped. the red tipped ones appear weaker than the yellow tipped ones. did laycock come up with a new technical change and not notify triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about short and long springs. the springs that were in the o/d are exactly like the ones I received today. while perusing a type A repair video I noticed that the guy doing the repair had a set of springs he was going to install that had red and yellow painted tips. appears to me that the weaker springs compress to the same tension as the stronger ones to replace short/long springs. can anyone clue me in as to what is happening.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Larry Varley
> > <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID:
> > <1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/f15139c9/attachment-0001.html>
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys mailing list
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > ***************************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings@rogers.com
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150628/142a60ae/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2015 03:11:03 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] California Legacy License Plate program
> Message-ID:
> <1643724211.3539832.1435461063401.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> My BJ8 has the original yellow-on-black plates; DMV ain't said squat (they'd have to pry them from ...). Bought the car in '83. Wish our BN2 had black-on-yellow(?) plates; had to settle for vanity '1956 M'
>
> You left too soon, Alan; that's also about the time we got the smog check waived for pre-68 cars.
>
> Bob
>
> ps. Rohan, I've seen plate 'restorers;' IIRC there was one at the Pleasanton car show a few years ago.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> I think it's fine, they made so many of us give up our black and blue plates, only a handful of very stubborn enthusiasts have been able to keep their original plates, I had to give them up on my BJ8 when my local DMV refused to renew them in the 80's. So now I can go get them again for a small fee. CA needs the money, so this is a good way for them to raise money without raising taxes.
>
> On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 7:41 AM, Rohan Marr < rohanmarr at mac.com > wrote:
>
>
>
> Apologies if this has already been discussed, but I found this today and as an owner of an original ?black plated? California car. I have mixed feelings on this one. Firstly it is worth reading up on the announcement and links:
>
> Classic California License Plates to Hit Streets this Summer: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/pubs/newsrel/newsrel15/2015_41
> CA DMV: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/legacyplates/index
>
> So why the mixed feelings, well original black plates had some value and meaning - the car was an original California car. Unfortunately my plates have really deteriorated, and after a few steep driveways (you know how low our cars are) I have bent them in half one by one until they broke in half. I only ever had one plate on the rear and swapped it ? the current one is hanging on by a thread. So I was looking to see if someone would reproduce them and I remember a link to someone who ?unofficially? remade them published on this list a few years ago. These new ones will reportedly use the same dye press tooling as the originals out of Folsom Prison (not sure where I read that), but unlike the original these will have a modern reflective coating and more importantly be available for use on any vehicle, both old and new, or car, truck or motorcycles. I know how I feel about a Prius with black plates!
>
> So what I really want to do is replace my plates with the same number etc with an original look, or do I want to give up on that and bite the bullet for a vanity plate with the new black?
>
> What does everyone think of this?
>
> Rohan (aka Aussie)
> ?56 Longbridge BN4 ?Hellouise"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150628/4d211858/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 23:11:51 -0400
> From: Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net>
> To: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Headlight relay kit
> Message-ID: <558F65F7.2020900 at frontiernet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> Fellow Listers,
> I'd like to install a headlight relay kit I obtained from Moss for my BJ7.
> Where is a good spot to mount the two relays for conveniently running
> the wiring without having to cut into the loom of the wiring harness?
> Any photos or wiring diagrams would also be helpful.
> Thanks in advance,
> Elton
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 23:18:17 -0400
> From: Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Trim
> Message-ID: <558F6779.1030108 at frontiernet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>
> I got mine from MacGregor called Bristleflex. Although more money, they
> stay on unlike some others.
> Elton
> On 6/27/2015 9:26 PM, John and Judy Carter wrote:
> > What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround)
> > that stays put on a BJ8 and other models?
> >
> > > From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600
> > >
> > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> > > healeys at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > > healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > > healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> > >
> > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> > >
> > >
> > > Today's Topics:
> > >
> > > 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)
> > > 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)
> > > 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)
> > > 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)
> > > 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> > > 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
> > > 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500
> > > From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
> > > To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > > Message-ID: <026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to
> > the shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using
> > heat and quenching with ice water or dry ice.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > 60 BT7
> > >
> > > 63 BJ7
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> > Curtis Arndt
> > > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
> > > To: Michael Salter
> > > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Micheal,
> > >
> > > My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
> > >
> > > Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast
> > iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I
> > can get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt
> > or stud then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and
> > then shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating
> > solution like "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the
> > needle nose locking pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY
> > rock it back and forth ever so slightly. If you get any movement
> > whatsoever back and forth the rest will come, if you're patient.
> > Repeat the heating and shock cooling process followed by the locking
> > pliers as many times as it takes. With patience and luck the broken
> > stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther with each application of
> > heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all the way.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were
> > frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ?? of stud proud of
> > the manifold. All seven came out using this process.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are
> > careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter
> > <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make
> > things easier.
> > >
> > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > >
> > > Michael S
> > >
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com
> > <mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it
> > went off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > > They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to
> > extract them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > > Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through
> > each bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being
> > subjected to massive amount of force.
> > > Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very
> > tedious repair.
> > > Michael S.
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/8f09ebc5/attachment-0001.html>
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400
> > > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > > Cc: "Healeys at autox.team.net" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -
> > > http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
> > >
> > > Best of Luck,
> > > Rick Neville
> > >
> > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter
> > <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > > > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > > > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make
> > things
> > > > easier.
> > > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > > >
> > > > Michael S
> > > > BN1 #174
> > > >
> > > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael
> > <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
> > > >
> > > >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it
> > went off
> > > >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > > >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to
> > extract
> > > >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > > >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right
> > through each
> > > >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being
> > subjected to
> > > >> massive amount of force.
> > > >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very
> > tedious
> > > >> repair.
> > > >> Michael S.
> > > >> BN1 #174
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > > >
> > > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > > >
> > > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/c3abbf74/attachment-0001.html>
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400
> > > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw at mail.gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> > cushioned
> > > the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> > >
> > > Read more:
> > >
> > <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html>
> > > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> > >
> > <http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj>
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/4e20450d/attachment-0001.html>
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700
> > > From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> > > To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> > > <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > > Message-ID: <kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611 at email.android.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Food for thought.
> > > Best--Michael Oritt
> > >
> > >
> > > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> > >
> > > -------- Original message --------
> > > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > > Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00)
> > > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > >
> > > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> > cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> > >
> > > Read more:?http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj?
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150626/073f9de4/attachment-0001.html>
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000
> > > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> > > To: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > > Message-ID: <SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0 at phx.gbl>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there should be
> > no problem there. I've seen a website for Vandervell, but they are
> > probably owned by someone else now. If they maintained their old
> > quality and if they still make the right bearings they would be the go
> > to source. As it is it's a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and
> > see what they claim.
> > > My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of service wouldn't
> > quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the 88.5 mm pistons. I like
> > the DW route because it allows them to use lighter pistons and more
> > modern metric rings they say will cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't
> > change unless I do cut the pistons and then it won't increase much.
> > I'm waiting to hear what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to
> > be decked too a lot of things might change.I haven't micced the old
> > head gasket, but i'll need to compare it to the new one at some point.
> > Even though I don't think I'll be driving it at high revs very much
> > I'm still going to change out to the narrow drive belt just because I
> > can incorporate a vibration damper.
> > >
> > >
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000
> > > From: varley at cosmos.net.au
> > > To: ynotink at msn.com
> > > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems undersize
> > > cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a problem many
> > > years ago but I believe there are no problems with them now.
> > > Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but they would
> > > be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft iron, my car
> > > had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only done 8000
> > > miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it back to 3 1/2
> > > using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used semi dished
> > > plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia. They give a
> > > final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no problem
> > > with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it would only be
> > > a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick composite
> > > material with steel rings around the bores. As long as the pistons
> > > are no more than flush with the top of the bore you should have no
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > Hope it all works out
> > >
> > > Regards
> > >
> > > Larry Varley
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B
> > > LAWRENCE wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks for the advise Larry,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I
> > > don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed to be
> > > or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using
> > > Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I
> > > suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they are
> > > too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS
> > > gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the top
> > > of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to
> > > clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty
> > > thick there.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket
> > > (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same
> > > dimension) and check for interference and clearances with some
> > > modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to head
> > > dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing
> > > clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any
> > > information on that or on any other tricks or rules of thumb I
> > > could use the info.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it
> > > freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel the
> > > need to change.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a
> > > lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed joints was
> > > actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of the
> > > head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully sealed
> > > although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal. I
> > > think I overextended the garter spring while I was assembling
> > > it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to manipulate
> > > the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before I lay
> > > it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think
> > > about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on the end
> > > plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most don't.
> > > Extra support there would be a good thing.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running
> > > into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine
> > > bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King, but I
> > > don't know anything about them and I would want the same for
> > > the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or similar
> > > quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen don't
> > > include the A90 engine.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the
> > > help I can get.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working on
> > > the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to uphold and
> > > so far mine is falling short.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bill Lawrence
> > > BN1 #554
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/94f9bd54/attachment-0001.html>
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 6
> > > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700
> > > From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> > > To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: [Healeys] o/d again
> > > Message-ID: <20150627030425.8371.qmail at server278.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type A I am
> > working on. all eight springs are the exact same length. 4 are yellow
> > tipped and 4 are red tipped. the red tipped ones appear weaker than
> > the yellow tipped ones. did laycock come up with a new technical
> > change and not notify triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about
> > short and long springs. the springs that were in the o/d are exactly
> > like the ones I received today. while perusing a type A repair video I
> > noticed that the guy doing the repair had a set of springs he was
> > going to install that had red and yellow painted tips. appears to me
> > that the weaker springs compress to the same tension as the stronger
> > ones to replace short/long springs. can anyone clue me in as to what
> > is happening.
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 7
> > > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
> > > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > > To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Larry Varley
> > > <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> > >
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> > <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/f15139c9/attachment-0001.html>
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Subject: Digest Footer
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Healeys mailing list
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > > ***************************************
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eschulz@frontiernet.net
> >
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/e38c7048/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 20:23:30 -0700
> From: Robert Hughes <rdhughes at q.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Door Trim
> Message-ID: <558F68B2.6060802 at q.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> You can buy it from Moss or Little British Car Co (on-line only).
> LBCarCo is selling it for $30 less than Moss.
> It's good stuff and stays where you put it.
> Robert Hughes
> 1965 BJ8
> **************************************
>
> On 6/27/2015 8:04 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> > Martin Mcgregor has "Bristleflex", which is the superior door
> > seal...but I was there recently and he's waiting on a new run and
> > doesn't have it in stock at the moment.
> > You can get contact info at MacGregor British Car Parts
> > <http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/>
> > However, he tells me that the website is out of date.
> >
> > Stephen, BJ8
> >
> > image <http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > MacGregor British Car Parts <http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/>
> > NEW "BRISTLEFLEX?" DOOR SEALS Bad Doorseals? Don't Fit? Won't stay on?
> > Doors won't shut? We've made "Bristleflex?".
> >
> > View on www.macgregorukcarp... <http://www.macgregorukcarparts.com/>
> >
> > Preview by Yahoo
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > *From:* John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
> > *To:* "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > *Sent:* Saturday, June 27, 2015 9:26 PM
> > *Subject:* [Healeys] Door Trim
> >
> > What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround)
> > that stays put on a BJ8 and other models?
> >
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/7f2323a0/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2015 12:13:20 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] California Legacy License Plate program
> Message-ID:
> <CAFBXTk+UNGyf_Rjcu0qHOSN7FoWfTzFAfbVg5NaumWtfn7dqCQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Bob -
>
> Keeping the plates was entirely at the discretion of the DMV people behind
> the counter, and I lived in an area where they were just plain asshats.
> Unequal application of bureaucracy only gets worse as the bureaucracies get
> bigger. Don't get me started on how completely screwed up the CA government
> is, and no, more taxes isn't the solution.
>
> Alan
>
> On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
> > My BJ8 has the original yellow-on-black plates; DMV ain't said squat
> > (they'd have to pry them from ...). Bought the car in '83. Wish our BN2
> > had black-on-yellow(?) plates; had to settle for vanity '1956 M'
> >
> > You left too soon, Alan; that's also about the time we got the smog check
> > waived for pre-68 cars.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > ps. Rohan, I've seen plate 'restorers;' IIRC there was one at the
> > Pleasanton car show a few years ago.
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> >
> > I think it's fine, they made so many of us give up our black and blue
> > plates, only a handful of very stubborn enthusiasts have been able to keep
> > their original plates, I had to give them up on my BJ8 when my local DMV
> > refused to renew them in the 80's. So now I can go get them again for a
> > small fee. CA needs the money, so this is a good way for them to raise
> > money without raising taxes.
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150628/1cc247f2/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 22:03:23 -0700
> From: I Erbs <eyera3 at gmail.com>
> To: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] California Legacy License Plate program
> Message-ID:
> <CACPMnYq_Ahfo-6LkkLAX=io4fX-F32vwtc2cNGEhL-EXZK=XDA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I inherited my mom's car. Misplaced the title. I live in Oregon. CA DMV
> MADE ME pay a years back registration and fines before they would mail to
> me. $860.00. Then kept threatening g me if I did not return the vanity
> plates she bought. I also got a fine for not running the car through smog
> control when car was in Oregon....did not pay it or send plates back. Yes
> ass hats
>
> Mr. Ira Erbs
> On Jun 27, 2015 9:13 PM, "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Bob -
> >
> > Keeping the plates was entirely at the discretion of the DMV people behind
> > the counter, and I lived in an area where they were just plain asshats.
> > Unequal application of bureaucracy only gets worse as the bureaucracies get
> > bigger. Don't get me started on how completely screwed up the CA government
> > is, and no, more taxes isn't the solution.
> >
> > Alan
> >
> > On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> My BJ8 has the original yellow-on-black plates; DMV ain't said squat
> >> (they'd have to pry them from ...). Bought the car in '83. Wish our BN2
> >> had black-on-yellow(?) plates; had to settle for vanity '1956 M'
> >>
> >> You left too soon, Alan; that's also about the time we got the smog check
> >> waived for pre-68 cars.
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >> ps. Rohan, I've seen plate 'restorers;' IIRC there was one at the
> >> Pleasanton car show a few years ago.
> >>
> >> ------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >> I think it's fine, they made so many of us give up our black and blue
> >> plates, only a handful of very stubborn enthusiasts have been able to keep
> >> their original plates, I had to give them up on my BJ8 when my local DMV
> >> refused to renew them in the 80's. So now I can go get them again for a
> >> small fee. CA needs the money, so this is a good way for them to raise
> >> money without raising taxes.
> >>
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150627/5a37fee4/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2015 14:51:20 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net>
> Cc: Healey List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Headlight relay kit
> Message-ID:
> <CAFBXTkKpSg-zg+aqY9kAQNwJHzgPo=pnf9qRfEydahR6H3AZ4Q at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Elton,
>
> Usually the best way to hook these up is to have your power lead go
> directly from the battery-solenoid pickup using a very short fused line
> from there to the relay. So put the relay somewhere near the solenoid, I
> put it on using one of the spare screws along the sub chassis crossmember
> that goes from above the footwell and attaches to around the wheel well.
>
> Doing it this way means there's no need to rewire anything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Sun, Jun 28, 2015 at 11:11 AM, Elton Schulz <eschulz at frontiernet.net>
> wrote:
>
> > Fellow Listers,
> > I'd like to install a headlight relay kit I obtained from Moss for my BJ7.
> > Where is a good spot to mount the two relays for conveniently running the
> > wiring without having to cut into the loom of the wiring harness? Any
> > photos or wiring diagrams would also be helpful.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Elton
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut@gmail.com
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150628/eac28b1c/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 182
> ***************************************
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150628/8bad8950/attachment.html>
More information about the Healeys
mailing list