[Healeys] #174 has a running problem

goldengt goldengt at cal.net
Thu Jul 16 20:11:01 MDT 2015


Sorry I don't think that matches with the problem occurring only after a short drive. I think a heat cause.Ken Freese


Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone-------- Original message --------
From: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> 
Date: 07/16/2015  5:09 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>, healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] #174 has a running problem 

Well here is what I found.
The brown wire that runs from the starter solenoid to the "A" terminal of the voltage regulator had come out but was resting on the terminal screw. I re installed that wire and the engine started immediately and seemed to run perfectly on a short 2 mile test drive...I didn't have time to do a prolonged drive before loading and departing for Enclave....
Do you think I have it?

Michael S
BN1 #174From: Bob Haskell
Sent: ‎16/‎07/‎2015 6:00 p.m.
To: Michael Salter; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] #174 has a running problem

Intermittent grounding of the coil to cut-off switch wire?

Bob Haskell
AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php

On 07/16/2015 02:32 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I have done the following;
>
> STEPS TAKEN TO FIND RUNNING PROBLEM
>
> This car has an original cap, original wires, original NA8 spark plugs,
> original black coil, original fuel pump. I am determined not to change
> any of these original parts unless I can confirm definitely that that
> item is the source of the problems…it a concours issue!!
>
> After many short trips 10 – 15 miles etc... the engine started to run
> very badly after 35 odd miles of a longer test drive on a warm but not
> hot day after travelling over a few hundred meters of rough road under
> construction eventually stopping completely as I tried to climb a hill.
> Sounded to be running on 2 cylinders at times. Backfiring through
> exhaust… no throttle response.
>
> Cranked but would not start..Appeared to have spark at the coil wire..
>
> Affer cooling started out again…after 20 odd miles stopped with the same
> symptoms… pulling choke seemed to make no difference.
>
> Could not hear fuelpump ticking but had fuel pressure at the front
> carb……good spark at coil wire…spark at plugs looked thin …Changed the
> condenser and the rotor and it started reluctantly and ran well for
> about 15 miles then stopped again….same symptoms….changed rotor…ran for
> 2 miles same symptoms…
>
> Found “3 cut” washers under the carb float chamber struts which I think
> could be sealing off the vent slots for the float chambers…
>
> Next day, today, I headed out for another extended drive and the car ran
> perfectly on a similar day for 36 miles then repeated the problem after
> 36 miles and I just managed to nurse it home another 11 miles….it
> actually died as I approached our driveway and I coasted in with the
> ignition turned off.Nothing would make it start.
>
> Tested the coil 4.6 ohms with no short to ground. Took off the float
> chamber lids and both were full to the correct level. The engine cranked
> but would just not start..
>
> After checking everything I could think of I believe that I have found
> the problem but I don’t have time to do another 36 mile test before
> loading the car to take to Enclave…
>
> What do you think I found?
>
>
> Michael..
>
> --
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
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