[Healeys] Stripped Bolt
simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk
Thu Feb 5 13:52:45 MST 2015
Heavens. Isn’t that another question raised? Are our chassis strong enough to tow or be towed? I guess there’s a steel plate involved somewhere? My MkII’s chassis looks pretty good – I believe - but I wonder if it’s as strong as it once was.
I just have visions of the Healey standing still and the bolt being towed out of the chassis.
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Price Lindsay
Sent: 05 February 2015 20:07
To: Richard Ewald
Cc: Healey List Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Stripped Bolt
Thanks to all. Heli-coil sounds like the way to go. I should have stated that the bolt is for a tow hook eye. Sorry if I got some scratching their heads!
On Feb 5, 2015, at 1:29 PM, Richard Ewald <richard.ewald at gmail.com> wrote:
Any good mechanical thread repair method will result in a stronger female thread that the standard hole. The Heli-coil rep used to do a demo with a sheet of aluminum and a grade 8 bolt. He would screw the bolt in the hole, and strip the threads. He would then install a heli-coil and screw the same bolt in and proceed to break the grade 8 bolts and the new larger diameter thread of the thread repair was stronger than the original bolt.
My advise is get a good thread repair kit (heli-coil, time sert, etc) and repair the hole, no need to weld it first.
On Thu, Feb 5, 2015 at 8:46 AM, R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl at gmail.com> wrote:
I have stripped a non-essential bolt in the frame and want to replace it on my BJ8. I really don’t want to drill it out, re-tap it and use a larger bolt for visual reasons. I don’t have access to a welding machine (probably a good thing). Is there a way to re-fill the hole and tap it to the correct size? There could be a lot of stress on the bolt.
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