[Healeys] Refinish steering wheel

[Oudesluys]

White spirit I think is similar to oil based turps, there is a problem 
translating these items from Dutch. It is not methylated spirits or 
de-naturalised ethanol. This is not as effective but can be used. 
Thinner is another possibility, but is rather unpleasant to work with 
and needs a very thorough drying before painting.
There is water soluble PU lacquer and there is solvent based PU lacquer. 
The water based stuff dries very quickly, does not darken the wood, does 
not discolour after time, hardly smells, has a very low solvent content, 
is more environmental friendly but is does not last very well and can be 
a bit brittle. The solvent based stuff takes a few days to fully harden, 
flows better and is more durable and tough. It does not crack easily but 
it does darken the wood and after time it will get yellowish/darker.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 31-12-2015 om 23:43 schreef Doug Barker:
>
> HELLO
>
> I was just thinking of doing mine also so this is good timing:
>
> My wheel is I believe aMotta but much lighter wood
>
> Please define –White spirits-possible Methal Hydrate?
>
> Also PU solvent based PU?
>
> Thanks-everything else I agree with
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Oudesluys
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 31, 2015 12:43 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Refinish steering wheel
>
> Of what I can see the steering wheel does look very nice and 
> patinated. I would not do anything to it apart from cleaning it with 
> white spirits on a rough cloth or kitchen abrasive sponge and rubbing 
> in some linseed oil.
> Look for remnants of lacquer  on the inside of the aluminium. It may 
> have been coated only with a wax or oil, e.g. linseed oil if you 
> cannot find anything.
>
>
> Depending on the age of the wheel it could be coated with acrylic 
> paint. If that is the case this must be completely removed before 
> repainting.
> Start with degreasing the wood very carefully and thoroughly with 
> white spirits. Sand very lightly with 320 grade sand paper until the 
> colour is even and all lacquer is removed but remove as little 
> wood/aluminium material as possible. Remove all the dust carefully. 
> Repaint using a soft round brush with PU solvent based clear lacquer 
> (as used on boats or wood floors) with about 4-5 coats or more at well 
> over 20C so the lacquer will flow evenly. Let every coat dry 
> thoroughly for a few days and sand lightly with 400 grade in between 
> the coats. I prefer to coat wooden wheels using a satin finish, but 
> others prefer gloss.
> Another method is applying many very very thin coats of raw linseed 
> oil and leave every coat to dry for at least a week at summer 
> temperatures.
> Generally mahogany plywood or solid mahogany is used but walnut can be 
> used as well. Lighter woods are also used. Yours looks like mahogany ply.
> It is a good idea to try out the process first on an old battered 
> Moto-Lita wheel (same manufacturer).
>
> I have done many steering wheels using PU solvent based lacquer and 
> also using raw linseed oil. I prefer the latter method. The drawback 
> may be that in the beginning your hands will smell of linseed oil.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 31-12-2015 om 17:48 schreef Chris Scholz:
>
>     I am finishing restoration of my BN4. Any ideas on how to improve the looks of my wooden steering wheel?  The wood is in very good shape. I would like to lighten it up some, but am nervous to start sanding it since the metal rivets would be more exposed. Any idea what kind of wood they used?  Are these maple?  I know they are not original. I see the original wheels were black plastic.
>
>       
>
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