[Healeys] 1959 100-6

[Bob Spidell]

I'm not a pro painter, but did a lot of research when restoring our BN2.  I don't believe painters use a rust inhibitor, 
per se.  Best technique is to strip down to bare metal, then immediately apply an epoxy primer (keep in mind any metal 
starts corroding as soon as it comes in contact with oxygen, facilitated by moisture, of which there is always some in 
the atmosphere).  Standard and 'high build' primers are remarkably porous, and unless you can strip to bare metal, apply 
primer, perform sanding, smoothing, etc. and finish paint in pretty much the same day or two you need to use an epoxy 
(two part) primer which effectively seals the surface.  There are various metal preps which will etch bare metal and 
leave a very thin phosphate coating--prior to primer--which is probably the best inhibitor you can get, but it may or 
may not be necessary depending on who you talk to (some prefer an etching primer).  Wear latex/vinyl/nitrile gloves to 
keep body oils off the bare metal.

If the 100-6 is similar to our 100--I know, the windshields are different but both have similar side posts--the front 
fenders have to come off to get to the posts (which you say you're doing). Removing the fenders isn't too 
difficult--lots and lots of bolts, and you'll have to remove headlight buckets and turn signals.

I encourage you to research paint and techniques--there is copious info on the interwebs.

Bob



On 7/30/2014 7:57 PM, Chris Scholz wrote:
> Greetings,
>
> It appears my current engine in my 100-6 needs an overhaul. I have the
> original numbers matching engine in my shed with a broken rod. I plan on
> having that original engine fully overhauled and the rear seal installed, and
> will be selling the other as a core. The car is in good shape but the engine
> bay is the wrong color, along with the frame, inside of trunk, etc.
>
> My son and I would like to keep the car this winter in my heated shed and work
> on it while my mechanic overhauls the engine. I would like to strip the engine
> bay and repaint it the same color as the outside (old English white) and
> remove the fenders and repaint the frame. The frame is in great shape along
> with the suspension. This appears to have had a restoration somewhere in the
> past.
>
> My body man will be painting the rear fenders and putting everything back
> together. My questions are:  how easy is it to remove the fenders and
> windshield?  Which rust inhibitor do most professionals spray before painting?
>
> Although this is new to my son and I, we would like to do as much work as
> possible ourselves while the engine is being rebuilt.
>
>
>


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Bob Spidell           San Jose, CA            bspidell at comcast.net

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