[Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal

[Earl Kagna]

Greg - all the top-shift Healeys are the same, and the earlier side-shift 
Healeys not that much different.  The gearbox assembly has to be 'suitably' 
rotated as it's coming out in order to clear the firewall opening.  It 
should be continuously supported while this is happening in order not to 
allow the box to 'hang' on it's input shaft - easy to damage the clutch disc 
that way.

It's all fairly straight forward once you begin the operation.  Basically, 
same thing on re-installation.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

-----Original Message----- 
From: Greg Mandas
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2014 1:10 PM
To: Alan Seigrist ; Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Cc: Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal

Uh, Excuse me.

Is the 65BJ8, Early Phase II, the only model with a bell
housing larger than the opening in the firewall requiring a regiment of
gyrationssimilar to a Chinese puzzle box for R/R?


Greg
65BJ8
________________________________
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Cc: Healey
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2014 9:14 AM
Subject: Re:
[Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox Removal


In the immortal words of Rob Schneider "You
can DO IT!"

Definitely make sure you block up the bottom of the sump for
support, and
take out the carb linkage connection so you don't bend it or
break it.

When you slide the whole unit off the back of the motor, you'll
need to
push the bell housing over to the passenger footwell (assuming you
didn't
remove the steering wheel) and then pull it forward a bit to get the
back
end out of the propshaft tunnel ,

It helps to have a couple of young
guys to help out, but probably if you
have a proper lift/straps handy that
might make it easier.

good luck!

Alan