[Healeys] Replacing perspex in hardtop

[I Erbs]

I have a four seater top that needs restoration. It has some check marks in
the fiberglass, and it needs the rear window and headliner too.
 Any idea on what it's worth? I paid $100.00 for it in 1980.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______)
         (_________________________)


On Thu, Feb 13, 2014 at 6:33 AM, Tracy Drummond <bighealey at charter.net>wrote:

> Factoid.  Both 4 and 2 seaters can use the same Perspex.  More is trimmed
> from the outside bottom for 2 seaters.
>
> Also If someone is restoring one I still have a few sets of the special
> hardwood pieces needed for a proper resto.
>
> Tracy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:
> healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Derek Job
> Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2014 12:32 AM
> To: Per Schoerner
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacing perspex in hardtop
>
> Thanks Per.
>
> I forgot to mention that when I was at AH Spares they told me that all the
> perspex screens are deliberately made slightly too large so will need to be
> trimmed. Obviously it helps if you have the old one to use as a template.
> The reason they do this is because all hardtops were slightly different so
> they want to ensure that it can be fitted to all.
>
>
> Derek
> On 12 Feb 2014, at 22:35, Per Schoerner <per at schoerner.se> wrote:
>
> > Derek
> > I did this last year. I had a window made locally, which means I had
> > to trim
> it to fit myself. Anyway, no aluminium has to be removed, just remove the
> locking seal, then the window and rubbers should go out fairly easy. Mine
> did anyway, almost fell out of itself.
> > Then install the rubber seals and the window in it. Your window is
> > already
> trimmed I suppose, so you don't have to do that. It should go in fairly
> easy.
> I used an old screw driver I had made smooth to pry the rubber seal over
> the
> aluminium edge when I needed a tool, otherwise I just used my hands. Then
> install the locking strip.
> > Before wind screen were glued in place, say in the 70's and before
> > that,
> wind screens (and rear windows) were installed using a length of thin
> ropeto
> force the rubber seal over the steel edge in the window opening, no need to
> do that here.
> >
> > Per
> >
> > Derek Job skrev 2014-02-12 16:52:
> >
> >> Does anyone have any tips for doing this job. To remove the old
> >> perspex do
> I
> >> just  remove the 'locking' rubber seal, then the perspex, then the
> >> window
> seal
> >> or do any of the aluminium pieces need to be removed??
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