[Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack

[Dave Murphy]

Thanks Gary.

I think my hinges probably have headless tapered pins rather than rivets, but
finding a way to press those pins out without maring the chrome is goint be
fun.

But at the bottom edge there is too little gap for those paddle ends to fit
without at least snagging the paint on the shroud everytime I shut the lid. An
the bumper looks to be right behind the gap so that the studs on the end of
the paddles looks like it will catch the bumper.

I'm interested in reversing the legs and angling them into the overriders.
Does that obviate the need for attaching the spades to the lower lip?

-Dave




> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> From: editorgary at aol.com
> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2013 15:43:26 -0400
> Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Luggage Rack
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: editorgary <editorgary at aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Jun 16, 2013 12:40 pm
> Subject: Luggage Rack
>
>
> Your biggest potential problem will be the hinges. If they are the stock
> originals, they rotate on a serrated press-fit pin that can be pushed out
from
> the smaller diameter end, and then the large bolt is inserted in place,
> fastening the luggage rack so it lifts with the boot lid. (And be sure that
> you don't lose those little pins, so figure out where you'll put them for
when
> you want to remove the rack.)
>
> If your hinges are, in fact, fitted with rivets, then they're the cheap
> aftermarket replacements sold from some third-rate suppliers, and you will
not
> be able to mount the luggage rack until you buy new original-spec hinges.
>
> As originally intended, the legs are fastened with the chrome brackets to
the
> bottom lip of the boot lid in such a way that the rubber legs rest on the
> bumper brackets. It's a bit complicated, but does work and positions the
> luggage rack parallel with the ground. However, on the roadsters, that
means
> you can't see over anything fastened to the rack -- but then, with the
> convertible you already have that problem whenever the top is put down.
>
> Instead of fitting as original, some of us simply have rotated the rear
legs
> 180 degrees so that instead of going out and down, they go down then out,
and
> can be rested into the bumper guards, with the rack at an angle parallel to
> the boot lid. The only thing you have to do then is bungee the rack to the
> bumper once the luggage is put on it, so it stays stuck down into the
bumper
> guards.
>
> Good luck with the hinges.
>
> G.
>
>
>
> Gary Anderson
> Editor-at-Large
> Austin-Healey Magaziner
>
>
>
>
>
> the rack to the trunk lid. They sentme:1 trunk rack,2 rubber capped legs
about
> 15" long,2 acorn nuts (which I think I see in the cataloge photo) threaded
on
> to whatamounts to be around 1/4" bolt about 1/2 " long with a smooth 1.5"
long
> 1/8"diameter shaft coming out of the bolt head,1 strip of rubber about 5" x
> 1-3/4",2 hex 3/8" or 5/16" bolts about 3/4" long with hex nuts and2
> partially threaded studs, each with a 2 holed paddle welded to one end,
atube
> clamp in the middle between a standard hex nut and a special 3/4" longhex
> nut.I assume the front of the rack either mounts to the trunk hinge (but I
> don'tknow how as my hinge uses what looks like a rivet) or to the paddle
> endedstuds.I assume the back of the rack either just sits on the the bumper
> framebrackets (which would make it scrach the paint when the lid is raised)
or
> usesthe paddle studs (which then forces the front of the rack to somehow
mount
> tothe trunk hinge). I have no guesses as to what the protruding little
> smoothshafts of the acorn nut assembly are for or where to put the 5" long
> strip of1-1/2" rubber.Maybe I'm missing some parts?I was planning to
install
> the rack today. If anyone has instructions or photosavailable, would they
> please e-mail them to me?Thanks!-Dave Murphy,Dearborn MI , SEMAHC'66
>
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