[Healeys] tuning and timing

[Derek Job]

John

With the poor quality of todays fuel I think that 35 degrees advance is too
much for a road car. To answer one of your questions, that would be the
total advance when the mechanical advance is fully operational. The vacuum
advance is a fuel economy measure and only operates when the throttle is
slightly open.

Derek


On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 6:37 AM, Austin Healey <pajtamuvek at gmail.com> wrote:

> Are You sure that the carbs are rebuilt correctly? The position of the
> butterflys is very delicate. If they are not spot on, You cannot close them
> perfectly.
>
> Normaly with HS4s, you should be able to set the idle regardless of the
> timing.
>
> Can You set the idling too low, soo that the engine stops?
>
> Gergo
>
>
> 2013/6/6 john spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
>
> > Ok, I checked the archives but still have questions about timing and
> > tuning the 3000 engine with three HS4 carbs.
> >
> > 1. The basics are set the valve clearances then set the breaker points.
> > 2. Static time the car with #1 at TDC and pulley mark lined up with the
> > timing cover pointer.
> > 3. Set up the carb jets per the manual.
> >
> > From reading the archives it is not clear to me if the static timing
> > should be advanced 10-15 degrees or static on the mark as the book
> states.
> >
> > Some posts stated it should be advanced as much as 35 degrees. Is that
> not
> > when the engine is running at higher rpm's and the mechanical advance and
> > vacuum advance have kicked in or should the static advance be higher?
> >
> > It seems the only way I can get the idle down low enough is to have the
> > car static timed on the pointer and pulley marks. The carbs are rebuilt
> and
> > there are no air leaks.
> >
> > What should the basic timing be when I am tuning the carbs?
> >
> > Any clues and help people can provide would be appreciated.
> >
> > John Spaur
> > San Jose
> > '62 BT7
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