[Healeys] clutch

Oudesluys coudesluijs at chello.nl
Tue Jun 4 16:04:57 MDT 2013


Startiing an engine, and certainly the old engines, in gear with the 
clutch pressed down to the floor is a bad idea as you will put a heavy 
load on the axial bearing of the crankshaft when there is no lubrication 
yet. Also your carbon release bearing will be quickly destroyed.
Usually selecting second gear slowly with little pressure on the gear 
lever will do the trick without much harm done to the syncro-ring.
The clutch plate usually settles down after use, in town traffic a bit 
faster, motorway only rather slow.
I have had the same trouble on my Jensen Healey and the Impreza (new 
clutch every ca. 100.000 miles) and both settled down after a few 
thousand miles of very dense Dutch traffic.
Kees Oudesluijs
NL


Op 4-6-2013 23:45, Michael Salter schreef:
> Hi Gary,
> I have been struggling with exactly the same issue with the new
> (aftermarket) clutch that I installed in my Subaru "winter beater".
> The disc was considerably thicker than that which I removed and from the
> time it was installed it has been "hanging up" and making the engagement of
> reverse (non synchronized) almost impossible without turning the engine
> off, engaging reverse then restarting the engine with the clutch depressed
> completely to the floor.
> The problem is, as Kees pointed out, that there is more compressibility in
> your new disc and the standard Healey clutch operating mechanism probably
> does not deliver sufficient movement at the release bearing to accommodate
> that compressibility.
> Although you can engage your synchronized 2nd gear to get the innards of
> the gearbox stationary without the gnashing of gears that can actually be
> pretty hard on the sychromesh if you have to do it for a prolonged period.
> Grinding it into reverse or 1st is a definite no-no. Little pieces of
> hardened gear teeth will chip off as you do that and they will eventually
> find their way into the gearbox bearings and ruin them.
> Assuming that you have ensured that the clutch is delivering a full stroke
> you really should bite the bullet and change the disc for something with
> less compressibility.
> BTW do check for wear on the fork and clevis pin of the master cylinder at
> the pedal, that can make quite a difference. I wrote a little article on
> that which you can read here. <http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=82>
> I have now done some 5000 km in the Subaru, without taking my own advice I
> might add, and I'm now able to get it into reverse without having to turn
> the engine off first then starting it in gear so I can back up.
> I should also mention that changing the length of the slave cylinder push
> rod may fix the problem BUT lengthening that rod in an effort to do so will
> probably result in there being a preload on the release bearing such that
> it is forced against the pressure plate at all times resulting in premature
> wear of both the bearing and the bearing face on the pressure plate.
>
> Michael S
> <http://here.>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 4, 2013 at 2:58 PM, <warthodson at aol.com> wrote:
>
>> I recently reinstalled my trans/OD in my BJ8. The OD was sent out for a
>> rebuild. The transmission had been working perfectly, prior to removal. I
>> only
>> had 25,000 miles on the entire drive train, but while the trans/OD was out
>> I
>> decided to replace the clutch disc because it would be easy to do. The old
>> disc looked great. It measured 9.5" diameter which is the specification
>> for a
>> BJ8 clutch. I picked a new one up at Victoria British, but when I got home
>> it
>> measured 9-1/16" diameter. I called Moss & they assured me that their
>> clutch
>> measured 9.5" so I ordered it. When it arrived it was identical in every
>> way
>> to the Victoria British disc. The exact same product. I knew it was not a
>> big
>> difference so I installed it. The thickness of the new disc was slightly
>> (less
>> the 1/32") thicker that the old disc. My problem is that now I am having a
>> lot
>> of trouble getting into 1st & reverse when stopped, even if I go into 2nd
>> before trying to  shift into 1st or reverse. It is acting like the clutch
>> has
>> not fully released even though I have the pedal on the floor & there is no
>> air
>> in the system. I now have 180 miles on the new clutch. Any ideas what is
>> causing this issue & will it go away when the clutch gets more broken in?
>> Gary Hodson
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