[Healeys] Fulcrom Pin - rundown
Steve Gerow
steveg at abrazosdata.com
Sat Mar 17 11:39:29 MDT 2012
I've removed a few sets of these on various cars. These are the techniques I
know about:
If rust is much of a factor you'll need to:
1) Use an oxy acetylene torch to carefully burn the rubber out
2) Or use a reciprocating saw to saw through the bolts inside the
mounting brackets
The cars I worked on were relatively rust free so the following was a
struggle, but it worked:
3) Soak with Kroil or PB blaster penetrant for a few days ahead of
time; remove castellated nut. Insert a short stout bolt and nut on top of a
couple of heavy washers between the end of the fulcrum pin and the hole in
the suspension upright. The male end of the bolt can extend into the hole in
the upright. With the bolt head against the fulcrum pin, tighten the nut
onto the washers toward the suspension upright.
This will "expand" between the suspension mount upright and the end of the
fulcrum pin. If you're able to use this to get the head of the fulcrum pin
to move outward a little, get a sledge hammer and a pickle fork (ball joint
fork) and hammer between the head and the suspension bracket. When you've
got it out far enough, the pickle fork will run out of room and you start
hammering a second pickle fork on top of the first - so now you're using two
wedges instead of one. Two pickle forks was enough to get them out.
The cars we did - the rear pins were not as corroded and had years of grease
on them so they were easier to get out.
Option 4) leave the fulcrum pins in place - they almost never wear out (hat
tip Mike Salter).
I'd be prepared to do 2) if 3) doesn't work.
--
Steve Gerow
Altadena, CA, USA
BN6
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