[Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut

[Chris Dimmock]

All good advice.
I'd just add the obvious. If the breather in your diff banjo is blocked, no
amount of machining, aligning and seal replacement will keep the oil in.
So first off, pull/ unscrew the breather - usually a "top hat" shaped thing -
off the axle banjo, and clean it.
Personally, I take the factory breather off, and fit a reasonably solid wall
clear plastic tube, and run it up high, and back down, usually into the boot.
Where it can breath, and no get crap into it.
I also run the Chicago Rawhide seals. Last part number I have for a 3000 (seal
only) is Z1091. (CR 20191)
Best
Chris

Sent from my iPhone

On 12/04/2012, at 7:47 PM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> On my Elva Courier race car, which uses a Morris Minor (Spridget) rear
> axle, the most common place for oil leaks to develop is at the lip seal
> which is pressed into the inner face of the hub and rides on the machined
> surface of the axle tube stub end.
>
> Cornering exerts a lot of leverage on the axle tube and the only thing
> keeping the hub square to the tube is the hub and bearing which absorb
> tremendous force, plus end loading.  Even with the special double bearing
> hubs these forces are still exerted on a very short section of the axle and
> when the machined surface gets scored and/or the lip seal is damaged oil
> will leak into the brakes, and all of the silicone and new O-rings and
> paper gaskets will not stop it.
>
> The solution is to pull off the hub and press a sleeve over the end of the
> axle which is a very thin piece of formed metal that essentially renews the
> metal surface, fit up a new lip seal and reassemble.  Chicago Rawhide
> manufacturers the seals and the corresponding sleeve kits.  They cost about
> $50.00 and take only about 5 minutes to install once the hub is off.