From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Apr 1 07:31:04 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 09:31:04 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak Message-ID: I have been asked for my thoughts... Anyone got ideas other than a clutch problem? The car started up fine and ran for a while to the point where we could push in the choke and allow normal idle (no squeaking the whole time). We tested for your Item #3 after setting up some lighting and using a bright led torch. As we took turns depressing the clutch no movement of the front pulley/damper was observed. Still no squeak. After about 20 min of engine running (still no squeak) we decided to drive around the neighbourhood. About 2 km into this run we noticed a slight intermittent squeak. It turned out that the squeak was associated with clutch movement  i.e. coming to a stop sign and taking off. It was basically a chirp as revs climbed and then fell but was definitely occurring synonymously with clutch movement. We then pulled over to the side of the road and raised the hood. At idle with no foot near the clutch everything was normal. In neutral as the clutch was pushed about 1/3 of the way in the squeak could be repeated at about 2100 RPM (my tach reads high). No squeak at lower revs and no squeak at higher revs. The sound (with ones head under the hood) was definitely not coming from the front of the engine but seemed to be coming from the starter area at the back of the engine. Again you only heard it as you ascended or descended thru about 2100 rpm. As we drove home the same phenomena occurred repeatedly climbing thru the gears and passing thru (the sweet spot) 2100 rpm. Again back in the garage in neutral the same squeak could be heard when the clutch pedal was partially depressed (say 1/3) and revs passing up and down thru 2100 rpm. There was no squeak with the clutch fully in or fully out regardless of revs. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ From richchrysler at quickclic.net Sun Apr 1 07:59:11 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 09:59:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000e01cd100f$9da59200$d8f0b600$@net> This definitely sounds like a dry pilot bushing. It will only squeal when the speed of the first motion shaft is different than that of the flywheel and its pilot bushing. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: 2012-04-01 9:31 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak I have been asked for my thoughts... Anyone got ideas other than a clutch problem? The car started up fine and ran for a while to the point where we could push in the choke and allow normal idle (no squeaking the whole time). We tested for your Item #3 after setting up some lighting and using a bright led torch. As we took turns depressing the clutch no movement of the front pulley/damper was observed. Still no squeak. After about 20 min of engine running (still no squeak) we decided to drive around the neighbourhood. About 2 km into this run we noticed a slight intermittent squeak. It turned out that the squeak was associated with clutch movement  i.e. coming to a stop sign and taking off. It was basically a chirp as revs climbed and then fell but was definitely occurring synonymously with clutch movement. We then pulled over to the side of the road and raised the hood. At idle with no foot near the clutch everything was normal. In neutral as the clutch was pushed about 1/3 of the way in the squeak could be repeated at about 2100 RPM (my tach reads high). No squeak at lower revs and no squeak at higher revs. The sound (with ones head under the hood) was definitely not coming from the front of the engine but seemed to be coming from the starter area at the back of the engine. Again you only heard it as you ascended or descended thru about 2100 rpm. As we drove home the same phenomena occurred repeatedly climbing thru the gears and passing thru (the sweet spot) 2100 rpm. Again back in the garage in neutral the same squeak could be heard when the clutch pedal was partially depressed (say 1/3) and revs passing up and down thru 2100 rpm. There was no squeak with the clutch fully in or fully out regardless of revs. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 1 09:59:15 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 17:59:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F787B53.7080009@chello.nl> I agree with Rich. Transmission out job I am afraid. Renew bush, it probably will be knackered. Before fitting heat up to 100 degrees C in oil "au bain Marie" for safety's sake, let cool down and leave it immersed for 24 hrs. This will saturate the phosphor bronze bush with oil. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 1-4-2012 15:31, Michael Salter schreef: > I have been asked for my thoughts... Anyone got ideas other than a clutch > problem? > > > The car started up fine and ran for a while to the point where we could > push in the choke and allow normal idle (no squeaking the whole time). We > tested for your Item #3 after setting up some lighting and using a bright > led torch. As we took turns depressing the clutch no movement of the front > pulley/damper was observed. Still no squeak. > > > > After about 20 min of engine running (still no squeak) we decided to drive > around the neighbourhood. About 2 km into this run we noticed a slight > intermittent squeak. It turned out that the squeak was associated with > clutch movement  i.e. coming to a stop sign and taking off. It was > basically a chirp as revs climbed and then fell but was definitely > occurring synonymously with clutch movement. > > > > We then pulled over to the side of the road and raised the hood. At idle > with no foot near the clutch everything was normal. In neutral as the > clutch was pushed about 1/3 of the way in the squeak could be repeated at > about 2100 RPM (my tach reads high). No squeak at lower revs and no squeak > at higher revs. > > > > The sound (with ones head under the hood) was definitely not coming from > the front of the engine but seemed to be coming from the starter area at > the back of the engine. Again you only heard it as you ascended or > descended thru about 2100 rpm. > > > > As we drove home the same phenomena occurred repeatedly climbing thru the > gears and passing thru (the sweet spot) 2100 rpm. > > > > Again back in the garage in neutral the same squeak could be heard when the > clutch pedal was partially depressed (say 1/3) and revs passing up and down > thru 2100 rpm. There was no squeak with the clutch fully in or fully out > regardless of revs. > > > -- > Michael Salter From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 1 10:32:16 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 12:32:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: 101 Year Old Driver In-Reply-To: References: <49AA6936-8DA7-4E36-AF9F-EAE2212E9267@aol.com> Message-ID: <045701cd1025$00998d70$01cca850$@verizon.net> Watching this made my day John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ www.healey6.com 101 year old lady driving a 78 year old car!!! This is priceless. Notice at the very end when she steps on a little red towel to get into the car so she won't dirty the running board, then picks it up and puts it in the car so she can use it when she gets out! Precious lady!!!! An amazing lady, 101 years old driving an 78 year old car and changes the oil and spark plugs herself. This is a hoot! http://graphics8.nytimes.com/bcvideo/1.0/iframe/embed.html?videoId=100000000 895665 &playerType=embed From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 1 17:18:59 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 09:18:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak In-Reply-To: <4F787B53.7080009@chello.nl> References: <4F787B53.7080009@chello.nl> Message-ID: <547E9346-A14A-4293-8E39-EB7270041AEA@gmail.com> An alternate method for impregnating a phosphor bronze bush with oil (if your wife won't let you boil engine oil on her stove, and the local takeaway won't let you put it in their Bain Marie) is to use a vacuum cleaner. I use one of those old spray gun attachments you used to get with vacuum cleaners in the 1950's. I sealed up the nozzle end, removed the tubes, so all I've got left is a glass bottle with a rubber seal & screw top lid, with a vacuum tube attachment on top. Fill the glass bottle 1/2 full with oil (I just use fresh engine oil, but not really heavy stuff), drop in the phosphor bronze bush, attach the vacuum cleaner on suck, and you can watch the air bubbles come right out of the bush (and the oil goes in....) It's a vacuum chamber - all air is removed, and it doesn't take long. Vacuum until the bubbles stop. 10 - 20 mins tops depending on bush size. If your wife gets suspicious about you using her vacuum cleaner, do it near the car, with a door open..... ;-) If anyone wants a pic of the device, ping me. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 02/04/2012, at 1:59 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > I agree with Rich. > Transmission out job I am afraid. Renew bush, it probably will be knackered. Before fitting heat up to 100 degrees C in oil "au bain Marie" for safety's sake, let cool down and leave it immersed for 24 hrs. This will saturate the phosphor bronze bush with oil. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Op 1-4-2012 15:31, Michael Salter schreef: >> I have been asked for my thoughts... Anyone got ideas other than a clutch >> problem? >> Michael Salter From eandy01 at msn.com Sun Apr 1 18:02:10 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 00:02:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 165 x 15 Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just had a set of the Nankang 165 80R15 CX668 put on the new chrome wires. They're marked 87T M+S. No idea how they will hold up. The old Michelins are still being made and sold but not by Michelin. Supposedly they sold the molds to another company. The price for those was stupid. Kuhmo makes this size I'm told and they're a good brand. Ed Anderson From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 1 19:01:09 2012 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 20:01:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 165 x 15 Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501cd106c$18086c50$481944f0$@net> Ed, I contacted Kuhmo last year and they told me they were no longer making 165 series tires and that any that I found were old inventory. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD ANDERSON Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2012 7:02 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 165 x 15 Tires Just had a set of the Nankang 165 80R15 CX668 put on the new chrome wires. They're marked 87T M+S. No idea how they will hold up. The old Michelins are still being made and sold but not by Michelin. Supposedly they sold the molds to another company. The price for those was stupid. Kuhmo makes this size I'm told and they're a good brand. Ed Anderson $12.75 From djg at gavinassociates.com Sun Apr 1 19:10:18 2012 From: djg at gavinassociates.com (Dennis Gavin) Date: Sun, 1 Apr 2012 21:10:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] clutch/engine squeak Message-ID: <001701cd106d$5ed528c0$1c7f7a40$@gavinassociates.com> I had a similar squeak that only showed up after the engine warmed up. After too much investigation I learned it was the crank, behind the balance pulley. The cover was installed off center and was rubbing against the metal cover. Perhaps it could happen more than once? Hope this helps. Dennis Gavin From mark at bradakis.com Sun Apr 1 22:03:55 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 01 Apr 2012 22:03:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Archive progress Message-ID: <4F79252B.3040100@bradakis.com> I have been working on the archives. They are still not perfect, but a lot more of the posts from the last few years are there now. Link below, enjoy. mjb. From bce257 at yahoo.co.nz Mon Apr 2 02:15:27 2012 From: bce257 at yahoo.co.nz (Andrew Thorp) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 01:15:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak > bush oiling In-Reply-To: <547E9346-A14A-4293-8E39-EB7270041AEA@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1333354527.24044.YahooMailClassic@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> A much, much easier method is to place the bush on the end of your thumb to close off one end and fill it to the brim with oil. Then use your other thumb to squash into the top of the bush. This creates a little pressure inside and forces the oil through the bronze matrix. After about three goes of topping up the oil and squeezing you'll see oil oozing out uniformly around the outside surface. Done. Andy. --- On Mon, 2/4/12, Chris Dimmock wrote: > From: Chris Dimmock > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clutch Squeak > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Received: Monday, 2 April, 2012, 11:18 AM > An alternate method for impregnating > a phosphor bronze bush with oil (if your > wife won't let you boil engine oil on her stove, and the > local takeaway won't > let you put it in their Bain Marie) is to use a vacuum > cleaner. > I use one of those old spray gun attachments you used to get > with vacuum > cleaners in the 1950's. I sealed up the nozzle end, removed > the tubes, so all > I've got left is a glass bottle with a rubber seal & > screw top lid, with a > vacuum tube attachment on top. > Fill the glass bottle 1/2 full with oil (I just use fresh > engine oil, but not > really heavy stuff), drop in the phosphor bronze bush, > attach the vacuum > cleaner on suck, and you can watch the air bubbles come > right out of the bush > (and the oil goes in....) It's a vacuum chamber - all air is > removed, and it > doesn't take long. Vacuum until the bubbles stop. 10 - 20 > mins tops depending > on bush size. > If your wife gets suspicious about you using her vacuum > cleaner, do it near > the car, with a door open..... > ;-) > If anyone wants a pic of the device, ping me. > Best > Chris > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 02/04/2012, at 1:59 AM, Oudesluys > wrote: > > > I agree with Rich. > > Transmission out job I am afraid. Renew bush, it > probably will be knackered. > Before fitting heat up to 100 degrees C in oil "au bain > Marie" for safety's > sake, let cool down and leave it immersed for 24 hrs. This > will saturate the > phosphor bronze bush with oil. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > NL > > > > Op 1-4-2012 15:31, Michael Salter schreef: > >> I have been asked for my thoughts... Anyone got > ideas other than a clutch > >> problem? > >> Michael Salter > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bce257 at yahoo.co.nz From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 2 02:37:01 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 10:37:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 165 x 15 Tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F79652D.9060701@chello.nl> Be very carefull in the wet until you know what these tires do. I found some new 185/70R13 Nankangs very scary in the wet, mainly due to the rubber compound I believe. I changed them after a couple of months and chucked them. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 2-4-2012 2:02, EDWARD ANDERSON schreef: > Just had a set of the Nankang 165 80R15 CX668 put on the new chrome wires. > They're marked 87T M+S. No idea how they will hold up. The old Michelins are > still being made and sold but not by Michelin. Supposedly they sold the molds > to another company. The price for those was stupid. Kuhmo makes this size I'm > told and they're a good brand. Ed Anderson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2114/4908 - datum van uitgifte: 04/01/12 From varley at cosmos.net.au Mon Apr 2 02:44:56 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 18:44:56 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 windscreen top frame rail Message-ID: <4F796708.9020901@cosmos.net.au> Hi Guys, I'm missing the top rail of my BT7 windscreen frame. It seems to have been lost during the cars journey from Houston to Melbourne. If anyone has one and is prepared to post it to Australia, please get in touch. Regards Larry Varley http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 2 06:22:05 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 05:22:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] gasket - exhaust manifold to down pipe In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120330222128.0205a618@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120330222128.0205a618@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F7999ED.90409@comcast.net> John, I would be interested in gaskets for BN2s and BJ8s. Those two are different (obviously). Custom head gaskets are usually made from copper, so I would think it would be good for exhaust gaskets as well. Don't know if pure copper or some alloy is used, though. I'd pay $10/ea--maybe more--for good copper gaskets. In fact, I tried to get this done myself but the company I was trying to work with showed no interest. Bob On 3/30/2012 11:04 PM, john spaur wrote: > Are people still having problems with the gasket burning out? It has been so long since I drove my car, I can't recall > how much fun it is to replace the gasket. > > Not wanting to find out, I am thinking about making a bunch of copper gaskets. A friend has a machine shop and he > tells me it is easy to make them with a CNC machine. So... I have some questions: > > 1. Are the gaskets the same shape and specification for the BT7 and BJ8; or other models for that matter? > 2. Is copper the best material or are there other materials? > 3. If copper is the choice, what type of copper? > 4. How thick; what gage or mm? I know I could just mic a new after-market one but I want the list advice. > 5. Presuming others might what these gaskets, what would people be willing to pay for them? I don't need to make a > profit but it would be nice for the machine shop to get paid for labor which is mostly inputting the dimensions into > the CNC program, the cost of materials and loading and unloading the CNC machine. > > Any and all advice would be very helpful. > > Thank you, > John Spaur > San Jose, CA > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 2 06:45:58 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 05:45:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] gasket - exhaust manifold to down pipe In-Reply-To: <4F7999ED.90409@comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120330222128.0205a618@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4F7999ED.90409@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F799F86.1080903@comcast.net> You'd probably need to proceed by getting dimensions from currently available gaskets, and doing a couple trial fits. The aftermarket gaskets I've bought aren't necessarily a perfect fit and sometimes require a little 'stretching' to fit. There may be a little variation from manifold to manifold, so you'd want to try a couple at least, and maybe oversize the holes a little bit. With the price of copper these days they might be more like $15-20/ea; that's a lot, but I get tired of changing them out. Bob On 4/2/2012 5:22 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > John, > > I would be interested in gaskets for BN2s and BJ8s. Those two are different (obviously). Custom head gaskets are > usually made from copper, so I would think it would be good for exhaust gaskets as well. Don't know if pure copper or > some alloy is used, though. > > I'd pay $10/ea--maybe more--for good copper gaskets. In fact, I tried to get this done myself but the company I was > trying to work with showed no interest. > > Bob > > > On 3/30/2012 11:04 PM, john spaur wrote: >> Are people still having problems with the gasket burning out? It has been so long since I drove my car, I can't >> recall how much fun it is to replace the gasket. >> >> Not wanting to find out, I am thinking about making a bunch of copper gaskets. A friend has a machine shop and he >> tells me it is easy to make them with a CNC machine. So... I have some questions: >> >> 1. Are the gaskets the same shape and specification for the BT7 and BJ8; or other models for that matter? >> 2. Is copper the best material or are there other materials? >> 3. If copper is the choice, what type of copper? >> 4. How thick; what gage or mm? I know I could just mic a new after-market one but I want the list advice. >> 5. Presuming others might what these gaskets, what would people be willing to pay for them? I don't need to make a >> profit but it would be nice for the machine shop to get paid for labor which is mostly inputting the dimensions into >> the CNC program, the cost of materials and loading and unloading the CNC machine. >> >> Any and all advice would be very helpful. >> >> Thank you, >> John Spaur >> San Jose, CA >> '62 BT7 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> >> > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Mon Apr 2 11:01:45 2012 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 13:01:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Queen's English Meeting Message-ID: <12b08.695d3795.3cab3578@aol.com> At this year's Queen's English gathering here in southern California, I met a man while he was admiring my BN1. Aaron Severson is his name and he told me he was writing an article about Austin-Healeys for his website. This morning I received an email with a link to his article and thought I would pass it along to the list. If you are so inclined, you can go to his home page and see all of the different articles he's done a large number of cars, this guy really likes cars. Anyway, here's the link to his Austin-Healey article: _http://ateupwithmotor.com/sports-cars-and-muscle-cars/295-austin-healey-100 -100-6-3000.html_ (http://ateupwithmotor.com/sports-cars-and-muscle-cars/295-austin-healey-100-100-6-3000.html) Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 From jwhlyadv at aol.com Mon Apr 2 15:36:11 2012 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 17:36:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 75 Days to Conclave Louisville!! Message-ID: <8CEDF2FC195A1E3-26DC-1706E@angweb-usd022.sysops.aol.com> Join us in Louisville this summer for Conclave! We have a record 180+ advance registrations with 75 days to go. Join us for a day at Historic Churchill Downs where you will dine on Millionaires Row. We are excited to announce that our car show will be held in Downtown Louisville at Waterfront Park. Located on the Ohio River's edge and within walking distance of Museum Row featuring the Louisville Slugger Baseball Museum, the Muhammad Ali Museum, The Frazier Arms Museum and many more. Autocross, Funkhana, Concours and Rally all on the agenda for a fun week, We put the emphasis on FUN! Plenty of activities to enjoy and plenty of relaxing vacation time with your Healey Friends. See you in June! For more information visit http://www.2012conclave.com/ Jim Werner Louisville, KY From healeyguy at bredband.net Mon Apr 2 16:45:47 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 00:45:47 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen fixing wing nuts Message-ID: <4F7A2C1B.7000304@bredband.net> Hi Helping a friend with his BN4, it's one of those fairly early ones built in Longbridge. As far as I understand it should have the one eared wing nut to fix the sidescreen to the door. It seems that the size of the stud on the rear fixing plate is 3/8 UNF, whereas it is 5/16 UNF on my 3000. Is this correct? Also, should the front nut also be of the one eared type. Best regards, Per in Sweden From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Apr 2 16:51:59 2012 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 15:51:59 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Correct fuses Message-ID: I have just re-wired the halogen head lamps using relays (2) and I was curious about the fuses to use. Effectively, I believe they were originally on the 35 amp line so logic would dictate usnig a 35 amp again. Am I correct? As I am using an original fuse holder with two fuses, I connected the amp meter (mounted permanently below the dash) brown wires to the other fuse position. Again should this be a 35 amp? Thanks in advance, Rich Kahn From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 2 17:27:55 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 16:27:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Correct fuses In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3C10754F-F4B7-45EF-B2C4-BDC5DEA7D037@sbcglobal.net> The headlights were never fused originally. A 35 amp fuse for one headlamp will be more than enough. On Apr 2, 2012, at 3:51 PM, Richard Kahn wrote: > I have just re-wired the halogen head lamps using relays (2) and I > was curious > about the fuses to use. Effectively, I believe they were originally > on the 35 > amp line so logic would dictate usnig a 35 amp again. Am I correct? > As I am > using an original fuse holder with two fuses, I connected the amp > meter > (mounted permanently below the dash) brown wires to the other fuse > position. > Again should this be a 35 amp? > Thanks in advance, > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Apr 2 17:38:08 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 16:38:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Correct fuses In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Use inline fuses on both lamp circuits as well as the 35 amp oem fuse. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 2, 2012 3:51 PM, "Richard Kahn" wrote: > I have just re-wired the halogen head lamps using relays (2) and I was > curious > about the fuses to use. Effectively, I believe they were originally on the > 35 > amp line so logic would dictate usnig a 35 amp again. Am I correct? As I am > using an original fuse holder with two fuses, I connected the amp meter > (mounted permanently below the dash) brown wires to the other fuse > position. > Again should this be a 35 amp? > Thanks in advance, > Rich Kahn > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Mon Apr 2 18:06:18 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 20:06:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen fixing wing nuts In-Reply-To: <4F7A2C1B.7000304@bredband.net> References: <4F7A2C1B.7000304@bredband.net> Message-ID: <004501cd112d$98282260$c8786720$@net> Hello Per, The Longbridge 100 Six used a single eared chromed wing nut at the rear anchor fixing, and yes, it was 3/8" NF, not 5/16" as in later roadsters. The fixing nut fitted to the forward iron was a 4 eared "star" sort of shape that was 5/16" NF thread. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Per Schoerner Sent: 2012-04-02 6:46 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen fixing wing nuts Hi Helping a friend with his BN4, it's one of those fairly early ones built in Longbridge. As far as I understand it should have the one eared wing nut to fix the sidescreen to the door. It seems that the size of the stud on the rear fixing plate is 3/8 UNF, whereas it is 5/16 UNF on my 3000. Is this correct? Also, should the front nut also be of the one eared type. Best regards, Per in Sweden $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of qtrpanel.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6 Detail0012.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of conclave10 034.jpg] From healeyguy at bredband.net Mon Apr 2 18:13:25 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 02:13:25 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Correct fuses In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F7A40A5.2060709@bredband.net> Hi You need to be a little careful here, do not put both head lamps on the same fuse. What happens if you are out in the dark and the fuse blows? Well, you might find yourself in the ditch. Now that you have gone the relay route just connect the wires that feed the lamps via the relays to the thick wire coming from the battery, there is a connection point at the starter solenoid where the battery cable comes up from down under the car. Use as short and as thick cables as possible to avoid voltage drops. And as mentioned before, the head lamps are not fused originally. Per in Sweden I Erbs skrev 2012-04-03 01:38: > Use inline fuses on both lamp circuits as well as the 35 amp oem fuse. > > Ira Erbs From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Apr 2 18:57:25 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 20:57:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Correct fuses In-Reply-To: <4F7A40A5.2060709@bredband.net> References: <4F7A40A5.2060709@bredband.net> Message-ID: By not fusing the headlights the wiring or appliance becomes the "fusible link" and if a short circuit or whatever should occur the lights will still go out but a repair will be a lot more difficult than simply replacing a fuse. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:13 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Hi > You need to be a little careful here, do not put both head lamps on the > same fuse. What happens if you are out in the dark and the fuse blows? > Well, you might find yourself in the ditch. > Now that you have gone the relay route just connect the wires that feed > the lamps via the relays to the thick wire coming from the battery, there > is a connection point at the starter solenoid where the battery cable comes > up from down under the car. Use as short and as thick cables as possible to > avoid voltage drops. And as mentioned before, the head lamps are not fused > originally. > > Per in Sweden > > I Erbs skrev 2012-04-03 01:38: > >> Use inline fuses on both lamp circuits as well as the 35 amp oem fuse. >> >> Ira Erbs >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Mon Apr 2 23:07:19 2012 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 22:07:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Correct fuses In-Reply-To: References: , , <4F7A40A5.2060709@bredband.net>, Message-ID: I did not completely understand. Are you saying that each wire between the lamps and the relays should be fused and the relays should not be fused from the solenoid ? As back up, I do have fog lights on a separate fused circuit so not ditch. Thanks Rich Kahn > Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2012 20:57:25 -0400 > From: michael.oritt at gmail.com > To: healeyguy at bredband.net > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Correct fuses > > By not fusing the headlights the wiring or appliance becomes the "fusible > link" and if a short circuit or whatever should occur the lights will still > go out but a repair will be a lot more difficult than simply replacing a > fuse. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 8:13 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > > > Hi > > You need to be a little careful here, do not put both head lamps on the > > same fuse. What happens if you are out in the dark and the fuse blows? > > Well, you might find yourself in the ditch. > > Now that you have gone the relay route just connect the wires that feed > > the lamps via the relays to the thick wire coming from the battery, there > > is a connection point at the starter solenoid where the battery cable comes > > up from down under the car. Use as short and as thick cables as possible to > > avoid voltage drops. And as mentioned before, the head lamps are not fused > > originally. > > > > Per in Sweden > > > > I Erbs skrev 2012-04-03 01:38: > > > >> Use inline fuses on both lamp circuits as well as the 35 amp oem fuse. > >> > >> Ira Erbs > >> > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Apr 3 01:37:13 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 08:37:13 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen fixing wing nuts In-Reply-To: <4F7A2C1B.7000304@bredband.net> References: <4F7A2C1B.7000304@bredband.net> Message-ID: Per If you go to my website under 'Longbridge Features' you will see detailed photos of both the 'one eared' and star shaped nuts. AH Spares sell the rear plate with the 3/8 fixing. Derek www.healeysix.net On Mon, Apr 2, 2012 at 11:45 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Hi > Helping a friend with his BN4, it's one of those fairly early ones built > in Longbridge. As far as I understand it should have the one eared wing nut > to fix the sidescreen to the door. It seems that the size of the stud on > the rear fixing plate is 3/8 UNF, whereas it is 5/16 UNF on my 3000. Is > this correct? Also, should the front nut also be of the one eared type. > > Best regards, Per in Sweden > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From healeyguy at bredband.net Tue Apr 3 02:49:10 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 10:49:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Sidescreen fixing wing nuts In-Reply-To: References: <4F7A2C1B.7000304@bredband.net> Message-ID: <4F7AB986.4020306@bredband.net> Thank you all for the help. It was on Dereks website I found out what is the correct nut, I missed the shape of the front one though. It was merely the size and thread I was puzzled over. Currently my friend has the two plates and is using normal nuts, I don't know if he has the star nuts. I'll tell him this story and we'll see what we come up with. Per Derek Job skrev 2012-04-03 09:37: > Per > If you go to my website under 'Longbridge Features' you will see > detailed photos of both the 'one eared' and star shaped nuts. AH Spares > sell the rear plate with the 3/8 fixing. > Derek From bce257 at yahoo.co.nz Tue Apr 3 04:29:08 2012 From: bce257 at yahoo.co.nz (Andrew Thorp) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 03:29:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Master cylinder cap Message-ID: <1333448948.1071.YahooMailClassic@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Looking for a clutch/brake cylinder cap originally used on the early BN4s if anyone has a spare. http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~bce257/images/DSC07643.JPG Cheers, Andy. From steveg at abrazosdata.com Tue Apr 3 09:00:04 2012 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 08:00:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] gasket - exhaust manifold to down pipe Message-ID: <044e01cd11aa$744f50c0$5cedf240$@com> I just measured an old one I have - it's 1-3/4" Diameter hole, 3" bolt circle. These don't seem to be available online as the smallest generally available is 2-1/2". However I did notice one manufacturer refers their "lifetime" gasket being made of a "special soft aluminum". Sounds like regular, non-tempered aluminum to me. Aluminum would be a lot cheaper than copper. If you ever took them off, you could anneal them and re-use them. A metal-cutting hole saw and some aluminum and you'd be in business. Use your old one for a pattern. Hint - for thin metal, glue it to a piece of plywood with contact cement as a backup before drilling with hole-saw. >>> Date: Mon, 02 Apr 2012 05:45:58 -0700 From: Bob Spidell > With the price of copper these days they might be more like $15-20/ea; that's a lot, but I get tired of changing them out. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From pensenwood at aol.com Tue Apr 3 09:36:31 2012 From: pensenwood at aol.com (pensenwood at aol.com) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 11:36:31 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] tires Message-ID: <8CEDFC6AD97E61E-3C0-1EF7@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> When putting new tires on, if you are using inner tubes, make sure ALL the labels are removed from inside the tire. They will cause the tube to fail by chafing. Since most new tires are tubeless by design, a lot of installers are unfamiliar with tubes. Bob From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Apr 3 10:29:42 2012 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 12:29:42 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tires In-Reply-To: <8CEDFC6AD97E61E-3C0-1EF7@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEDFC6AD97E61E-3C0-1EF7@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001001cd11b6$f9107da0$eb3178e0$@rr.com> It's also a good idea to coat the inside of the tire with talcum powder before putting in the tube. How many installers will know that? Besides carrying a spare tube in the boot, I also have a container of baby powder in case it's needed on the road. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of pensenwood at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 11:37 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] tires When putting new tires on, if you are using inner tubes, make sure ALL the labels are removed from inside the tire. They will cause the tube to fail by chafing. Since most new tires are tubeless by design, a lot of installers are unfamiliar with tubes. Bob _______________________________________________ From dcongleton at embarqmail.com Tue Apr 3 11:30:27 2012 From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 13:30:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tires References: <8CEDFC6AD97E61E-3C0-1EF7@webmail-d056.sysops.aol.com> <001001cd11b6$f9107da0$eb3178e0$@rr.com> Message-ID: <6E1A954B26B843F890EE71B35D81086C@your4dacd0ea75> Also to be noted and not always known is that there are special tubes for radial tires. Dallas ----- Original Message ----- From: "BJ8 Healeys" To: Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 12:29 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] tires > It's also a good idea to coat the inside of the tire with talcum powder > before putting in the tube. How many installers will know that? > Besides carrying a spare tube in the boot, I also have a container of baby > powder in case it's needed on the road. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of pensenwood at aol.com > Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 11:37 AM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] tires > > When putting new tires on, if you are using inner tubes, make sure ALL the > labels are removed from inside the tire. They will cause the tube to fail > by > chafing. Since most new tires are tubeless by design, a lot of installers > are unfamiliar with tubes. Bob From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Tue Apr 3 12:13:05 2012 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 13:13:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits Message-ID: I posted the following on the same subject to the MG list: ---------------------------- I am all for adding relays to our car. I have had extensive electrical upgrading on my Healey and am waiting my next at the shop to get the same things done for the BGT. Turning on the ignition activates a 75A relay which switches power directly from the battery terminal on the solenoid to an eight position fuse block. You only need one relay for both high and low beams. Most relays have two sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low beams go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams you activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the normally closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely event of a relay failure, you always have the low beams. BTW, The 75A realy is fused, and the light relay is activated by the light switch with the current for the headlights coming directly from the battery through a fuse on the block. The block uses blade fuses. The block and relays came for www.ties4less.com. No interest other than a satisfied customer. ------------------------------------- As for fusing, modern cars use a fusible link that opens when there is a short. I prefer a circuit breaker which fits into the fuse block, just as a bladed fuse does. Jack From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 3 13:03:54 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 19:03:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1898737115.420712.1333479834456.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Healeys have a fusible link. It's called the wiring harness. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- ... ------------------------------------- As for fusing, modern cars use a fusible link that opens when there is a short. I prefer a circuit breaker which fits into the fuse block, just as a bladed fuse does. Jack _______________________________________________ From sbyers at ec.rr.com Tue Apr 3 14:39:43 2012 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 16:39:43 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: <1898737115.420712.1333479834456.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1898737115.420712.1333479834456.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <001a01cd11d9$e6d3d470$b47b7d50$@rr.com> They sure do! MG Midgets do, too, as shown by the result when I hit that deer back in '91. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 3:04 PM To: Jack Feldman Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Light Circuits Healeys have a fusible link. It's called the wiring harness. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From ggilliam at usol.com Tue Apr 3 15:42:15 2012 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 17:42:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Coolant leak Message-ID: A couple days ago I noticed a damp area under the car, a Longbridge BN4, and the coolant level down in the radiator. Since it was reasonably warm today I investigated the condition and it looks like the thermal system tube for the water temp indicator is the source of the leak. In this car the bulb is installed in the bottom of the radiator top tank, and the leak appears to be where the small coil wound tube enters the larger bulb. Has anyone experienced this condition, and is there a fix short of having to remove the gauge and thermal system and get it rebuilt? I don't think the leak rate is significant, but things always seem to fail at the most inconvenient times or in the worst places. I was thinking of trying to put some epoxy putty around the tube, or RTV....I don't think duct tape will work here.... Regards, Gordy Fenton, MI From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Apr 3 15:59:25 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 14:59:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: As I posted on the MG list this morning, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to do this using 1 standard switching relay. If you think it is possible, go to https://picasaweb.google.com/richard.ewald/Relay?authuser=0&feat=directlinkprint the diagram, wire it using a pen or pencil and send it to me, or post it somewhere. Rick On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 11:13 AM, Jack Feldman wrote: > I posted the following on the same subject to the MG list: > > You only need one relay for both high and low beams. Most relays have two > sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low beams > go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams you > activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the normally > closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated > passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely event > of a relay failure, you always have the low beams. > > > As for fusing, modern cars use a fusible link that opens when there is a > short. I prefer a circuit breaker which fits into the fuse block, just as a > bladed fuse does. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 3 16:26:36 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 3 Apr 2012 18:26:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Coolant leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Gordy, I don't think the problem is too serious. The hex nut that holds the bulb into the radiator just clamps a flange between the threaded boss on the radiator and the nut itself. If the leak is around the "spring" covering the capillary tube just tightening the nut slightly may solve the problem. In the worst case you may need to remove the nut and the "bulb" to clean up the mating surfaces. Be very careful to ensure that the "spring" does not turn with the nut as you loosen it. The little wire inside the spring is actually a very thin tube which contains ether and if strained the tube will easily break.... proceed with caution. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 5:42 PM, wrote: > A couple days ago I noticed a damp area under the car, a Longbridge BN4, > and the coolant level down in the radiator. Since it was reasonably warm > today I investigated the condition and it looks like the thermal system > tube for the water temp indicator is the source of the leak. In this car > the bulb is installed in the bottom of the radiator top tank, and the leak > appears to be where the small coil wound tube enters the larger bulb. > Has anyone experienced this condition, and is there a fix short of having > to remove the gauge and thermal system and get it rebuilt? I don't think > the leak rate is significant, but things always seem to fail at the most > inconvenient times or in the worst places. I was thinking of trying to put > some epoxy putty around the tube, or RTV....I don't think duct tape will > work here.... > > Regards, > Gordy > Fenton, MI > _____________ From ggilliam at usol.com Tue Apr 3 17:01:33 2012 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Tue, 03 Apr 2012 18:01:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't agree with this. Using just one relay would require all the headlamp current to still pass through the headlight switch and old wiring. Further, the use of a fusible link usually means that by the time the link burns open the problem device is destroyed, wiring melted and the now burned link hard to find, and needs to be cut out and be replaced. Use circuit breakers and fuses. Gordy On 4/03/2012 1:13 PM, Jack Feldman wrote: > I posted the following on the same subject to the MG list: > > ---------------------------- > I am all for adding relays to our car. I have had extensive > electrical > upgrading on my Healey and am waiting my next at the shop to get the > same > things done for the BGT. Turning on the ignition activates a 75A > relay > which switches power directly from the battery terminal on the > solenoid to > an eight position fuse block. > > You only need one relay for both high and low beams. Most relays have > two > sets of contacts. One normally closed, and one normally open. The low > beams > go through the normally closed contacts. When you want the high beams > you > activate the relay and the normally open contacts close and the > normally > closed contacts open. That way the most used low beams are activated > passively and the relay is only used for high beams.. In the unlikely > event > of a relay failure, you always have the low beams. > > BTW, The 75A realy is fused, and the light relay is activated by the > light > switch with the current for the headlights coming directly from the > battery > through a fuse on the block. The block uses blade fuses. > > The block and relays came for www.ties4less.com. No interest other > than a > satisfied customer. > ------------------------------------- > As for fusing, modern cars use a fusible link that opens when there > is a > short. I prefer a circuit breaker which fits into the fuse block, > just as a > bladed fuse does. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ggilliam at usol.com From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Apr 3 18:24:58 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 08:24:58 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Coolant leak In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5D927482-F951-49DB-9727-8D3D9F901BBB@gmail.com> Yes nothing serious here. Either tighten it up or failing that, use RTV to seal it. Sent from my iPad On Apr 4, 2012, at 6:26 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Gordy, > I don't think the problem is too serious. The hex nut that holds the > bulb into the radiator just clamps a flange between the threaded boss on > the radiator and the nut itself. If the leak is around the "spring" > covering the capillary tube just tightening the nut slightly may solve the > problem. > In the worst case you may need to remove the nut and the "bulb" to clean up > the mating surfaces. > Be very careful to ensure that the "spring" does not turn with the nut as > you loosen it. The little wire inside the spring is actually a very thin > tube which contains ether and if strained the tube will easily break.... > proceed with caution. > > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > > On Tue, Apr 3, 2012 at 5:42 PM, wrote: > >> A couple days ago I noticed a damp area under the car, a Longbridge BN4, >> and the coolant level down in the radiator. Since it was reasonably warm >> today I investigated the condition and it looks like the thermal system >> tube for the water temp indicator is the source of the leak. In this car >> the bulb is installed in the bottom of the radiator top tank, and the leak >> appears to be where the small coil wound tube enters the larger bulb. >> Has anyone experienced this condition, and is there a fix short of having >> to remove the gauge and thermal system and get it rebuilt? I don't think >> the leak rate is significant, but things always seem to fail at the most >> inconvenient times or in the worst places. I was thinking of trying to put >> some epoxy putty around the tube, or RTV....I don't think duct tape will >> work here.... >> >> Regards, >> Gordy >> Fenton, MI >> _____________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From healeyray at yahoo.com Wed Apr 4 10:25:36 2012 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 09:25:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) Message-ID: <1333556736.36372.YahooMailMobile@web111416.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Ray Juncal healeyray at yahoo.com Santoro, Michael 4/4/2012 9:25:18 AM From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Wed Apr 4 12:50:29 2012 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 13:50:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Moss headlight relay kit - An Apology Message-ID: Looks like Charles was correct. I spent some time trying to diagram my suggestion, and just can't do it. I apologise to the groups for the misleading statement. However, I am still a believer in having all the current for the accessories come from the battery terminal through a 75A relay, and then to a fuse block where it is distributed to the various items that need current. I am thinking of putting an impact switch in the lead that activates the 75A relay. That way in an accident all the current, not just the gas pump, will be turned off. Jack From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 4 13:48:31 2012 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 15:48:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Message-ID: Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a standard replacement sealed beam you get today? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." From kentmclean at comcast.net Wed Apr 4 14:26:09 2012 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2012 16:26:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F7CAE61.90802@comcast.net> Jack Feldman wrote: > You only need one relay for both high and low beams. I think a better solution is multiple relays. If that single relay fails, you are suddenly in the dark. The overkill solution is 4 relays -- 1 for each high and low beam. Plan B would be 3 relays, 1 for the high beams, and 1 for each low beam; if the high beam relay dies, you still have the lows. If a low beam relay dies, you still have the other low beam. Here's a simplified diagram using 1 relay for the low beams, 1 relay for the high beams: -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Apr 4 15:08:00 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 04 Apr 2012 17:08:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <017901cd12a7$052435f0$0f6ca1d0$@verizon.net> HMM "working" and "Lucas" in the same sentence. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 3:49 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a standard replacement sealed beam you get today? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 4 15:10:00 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 17:10:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I hope so....I've got about 20 of them!!! :-) -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Wed, Apr 4, 2012 at 3:48 PM, S and T Miller wrote: > Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a > standard > replacement sealed beam you get today? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Apr 4 15:51:05 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 17:51:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002201cd12ad$096f6570$1c4e3050$@net> Folks who have a car built from mid 1961 (when Lucas began installing sealed beam lamps in North American spec cars) and who want to have the car judged in Concours will be seeking them out. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of S and T Miller Sent: 2012-04-04 3:49 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a standard replacement sealed beam you get today? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From warthodson at aol.com Wed Apr 4 16:12:30 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 18:12:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CEE0C729582DBD-DD4-13BBF@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> Working Lucas, two words that are not often used together. I could not pass up the opportunity, even though I don't actually subscribe to the urban legend. Forgive me Joseph. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: S and T Miller To: healeys Sent: Wed, Apr 4, 2012 4:05 pm Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a standard eplacement sealed beam you get today? The Millers British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test rive." uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 4 16:21:01 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 15:21:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: <4F7CAE61.90802@comcast.net> References: <4F7CAE61.90802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0031FCC3-22D7-4BB6-83AC-6AC3D23E7F17@sbcglobal.net> Never put both the low or both the high on the same relay / fuse circuit. If you are going to install a relay and fuse then you should set them up left and right. That way if something happens you will still have a light. With all this discussion about installing fuses and relays in the headlight circuit. The question is how many have had a major short in the headlight circuit that has burned up the wiring harness. I personally have been doing this for the last 35 plus years and could probably count them on one hand. So why go to all the effort for something that is not going to be a problem and if it is then your harness was probably crap to start with. Unless you just want to make some work to do on the car. Personally I would rather be out driving. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 4, 2012, at 1:26 PM, Kent McLean wrote: > Jack Feldman wrote: >> You only need one relay for both high and low beams. > > I think a better solution is multiple relays. If that single relay > fails, you are suddenly in the dark. The overkill solution is 4 > relays -- 1 for each high and low beam. Plan B would be 3 relays, > 1 for the high beams, and 1 for each low beam; if the high beam > relay dies, you still have the lows. If a low beam relay dies, > you still have the other low beam. > > Here's a simplified diagram using 1 relay for the low beams, 1 relay > for the high beams: > > > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 4 18:34:03 2012 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 20:34:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <002201cd12ad$096f6570$1c4e3050$@net> References: , <002201cd12ad$096f6570$1c4e3050$@net> Message-ID: Thank you. Are the sealed beam and the earlier ones marked differently? I would imagine if they are the marked the same the only way you could tell is by looking through the glass and see that it is a sealed beam rather then a non sealed beam? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Lucas headlights > Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 17:51:05 -0400 > > > Folks who have a car built from mid 1961 (when Lucas began installing sealed > beam lamps in North American spec cars) and who want to have the car judged > in Concours will be seeking them out. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of S and T Miller > Sent: 2012-04-04 3:49 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights > > Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a > standard replacement sealed beam you get today? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From stmiller96 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 4 18:37:50 2012 From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 20:37:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <8CEE0C729582DBD-DD4-13BBF@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> References: , <8CEE0C729582DBD-DD4-13BBF@webmail-d014.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: You know, I would have thought after all these years owning and working on British cars even my hotmail spell check would have flagged "Lucas" and "working" in the same sentence. :) The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas headlights From: warthodson at aol.com Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 18:12:30 -0400 Working Lucas, two words that are not often used together. I could not pass up the opportunity, even though I don't actually subscribe to the urban legend. Forgive me Joseph. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: S and T Miller To: healeys Sent: Wed, Apr 4, 2012 4:05 pm Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a standard replacement sealed beam you get today? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 4 19:28:27 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 18:28:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Light circuits Message-ID: Aren't relays required for h4 hologen bulbs? Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Apr 4 19:31:23 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 21:31:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: , <002201cd12ad$096f6570$1c4e3050$@net> Message-ID: <000301cd12cb$d00d3540$70279fc0$@net> Earlier Lucas lamps fitted to Healeys in North America prior to the Lucas sealed beam circa 1961 would have been the 700 series bulb type lamps consisting of bulb, adaptor and reflector. They were not deemed legal in the U.S but were standard fitment in Canada. Healeys destined for U.S market would simply have had their U.S. dealer installing a regular U.S. manufactured sealed beam unit such as GE, Westinghouse, etc. Rich From: S and T Miller [mailto:stmiller96 at hotmail.com] Sent: 2012-04-04 8:34 To: richchrysler at quickclic.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Thank you. Are the sealed beam and the earlier ones marked differently? I would imagine if they are the marked the same the only way you could tell is by looking through the glass and see that it is a sealed beam rather then a non sealed beam? The Millers "British Car Nuts" 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 1964 MGB 40841 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive." > From: richchrysler at quickclic.net > To: stmiller96 at hotmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Lucas headlights > Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 17:51:05 -0400 > > > Folks who have a car built from mid 1961 (when Lucas began installing sealed > beam lamps in North American spec cars) and who want to have the car judged > in Concours will be seeking them out. > > Rich > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of S and T Miller > Sent: 2012-04-04 3:49 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights > > Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a > standard replacement sealed beam you get today? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net From jtrifari at comcast.net Wed Apr 4 20:42:05 2012 From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari) Date: Wed, 4 Apr 2012 19:42:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: <0031FCC3-22D7-4BB6-83AC-6AC3D23E7F17@sbcglobal.net> References: <4F7CAE61.90802@comcast.net> <0031FCC3-22D7-4BB6-83AC-6AC3D23E7F17@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <001301cd12d5$b0adda10$12098e30$@net> Dave--well said. I had nothing better to do with my time some years ago so I put relays in the headlight circuits of my BN1. Too much wiring; to many places for things to go wrong, so I pulled everything else and re-wired the car as per the original. John Trifari Golden Gate AHC/BN1 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2012 3:21 PM To: Kent McLean Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Light Circuits Never put both the low or both the high on the same relay / fuse circuit. If you are going to install a relay and fuse then you should set them up left and right. That way if something happens you will still have a light. With all this discussion about installing fuses and relays in the headlight circuit. The question is how many have had a major short in the headlight circuit that has burned up the wiring harness. I personally have been doing this for the last 35 plus years and could probably count them on one hand. So why go to all the effort for something that is not going to be a problem and if it is then your harness was probably crap to start with. Unless you just want to make some work to do on the car. Personally I would rather be out driving. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 4, 2012, at 1:26 PM, Kent McLean wrote: > Jack Feldman wrote: >> You only need one relay for both high and low beams. > > I think a better solution is multiple relays. If that single relay > fails, you are suddenly in the dark. The overkill solution is 4 relays > -- 1 for each high and low beam. Plan B would be 3 relays, > 1 for the high beams, and 1 for each low beam; if the high beam relay > dies, you still have the lows. If a low beam relay dies, you still > have the other low beam. > > Here's a simplified diagram using 1 relay for the low beams, 1 relay > for the high beams: > > > > -- > Kent McLean > '56 100 BN2 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jtrifari at comcast.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 5 02:06:08 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 10:06:08 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> You might as well dump them. There are no takers. There are millions about, most having been replaced by Halogen H4 units. I have several lying about from US and UK specced cars as they are illegal in Continental Europe and have to be replaced by the old fashioned head lamp units with duplo lights or later H4 units with Halogen H4 bulbs. These days there is a tendency to replace the H4 bulbs with Xenon discharge light units as they produce a lot more light and use a lot less Amps. However this is a bit more involved as you have to fit the electronics around the system. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 4-4-2012 21:48, S and T Miller schreef: > Are working Lucas sealed beam headlights valuable? More value then a standard > replacement sealed beam you get today? > > The Millers > "British Car Nuts" > > 1957 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 35299 > > 1959 Austin Healey 100-6 BN4 77219 > > 1964 MGB 40841 > > 1960 Austin Healey Bugeye Sprite AN5 34351 > > "Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test > drive." > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2114/4913 - datum van uitgifte: 04/03/12 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 5 02:12:46 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 10:12:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Light circuits In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F7D53FE.9070503@chello.nl> Not necessarily. They do not draw substantially more Amps than sealed beams or duplo ligts. About 25% more. However it is always wise to wire in relays for the main users in the circuit (head lights, blower, electric radiator fan, wipers etc.) to save the old half worn switches, especially those made by Lucas. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 5-4-2012 3:28, I Erbs schreef: > Aren't relays required for h4 hologen bulbs? > > Ira Erbs > IT Consultant > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2114/4913 - datum van uitgifte: 04/03/12 From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 5 02:26:19 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 10:26:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: <0031FCC3-22D7-4BB6-83AC-6AC3D23E7F17@sbcglobal.net> References: <4F7CAE61.90802@comcast.net> <0031FCC3-22D7-4BB6-83AC-6AC3D23E7F17@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <4F7D572B.6080905@chello.nl> It is not so much the burning of the wiring that is the problem but the burning of the old switches, including the ignition switch. Most are dirty inside or/and half worn and show a highish resistance, generating heat when a high current is flowing. When you install relays the current draw on the original (switch) circuit is dramatically less, down to negligible, all current going through the new (thicker gauge) wires switched by the relays. However I have seen many wires gone up in smoke as they got warm, softened the insulation and chafed through because of a combination of insufficient thickness of the wire (a general problem in 50's-70's cars, not only those with Lucas wiring), half broken or corroded connectors with high resistance thus heat generating. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 5-4-2012 0:21, David Nock schreef: > Never put both the low or both the high on the same relay / fuse > circuit. If you are going to install a relay and fuse then you should > set them up left and right. That way if something happens you will > still have a light. > > With all this discussion about installing fuses and relays in the > headlight circuit. The question is how many have had a major short in > the headlight circuit that has burned up the wiring harness. I > personally have been doing this for the last 35 plus years and could > probably count them on one hand. > > So why go to all the effort for something that is not going to be a > problem and if it is then your harness was probably crap to start > with. Unless you just want to make some work to do on the car. > Personally I would rather be out driving. > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > Stockton Ca 95205 > 209-948-8767 > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > . > . > > On Apr 4, 2012, at 1:26 PM, Kent McLean wrote: From varley at cosmos.net.au Thu Apr 5 04:19:35 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 20:19:35 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp relay is generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than a fuse. Do you really want your headlights to decide to go off while driving at speed on a winding road? A proper headlamp relay will flash the headlights on and off if there is a problem in the wiring, as the thermal switch in the relay opens and closes contacts. Food for thought. Cheers Larry Varley From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 5 05:53:30 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 13:53:30 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> What we are talking about is the standard relays, not the modern head lamp relays. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 5-4-2012 12:19, Larry Varley schreef: > Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp > relay is generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than a > fuse. Do you really want your headlights to decide to go off while > driving at speed on a winding road? A proper headlamp relay will flash > the headlights on and off if there is a problem in the wiring, as the > thermal switch in the relay opens and closes contacts. Food for thought. > Cheers > Larry Varley > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2409/4915 - datum van uitgifte: > 04/04/12 From varley at cosmos.net.au Thu Apr 5 06:22:48 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 22:22:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> Headlamp relays are not that modern, it's not a good idea to use fused standard relays on headlamp circuits, as you risk the possible loss of headlamps at the worst possible moment. Many old cars didn't use fuses on headlamp circuits for this reason. The problem isn't the relay, it's the fuse. So if people want to use a relay on a headlamp circuit, a proper headlamp relay should be used that has the bi metal overload so there is no total loss of headlamps in the case of a short circuit. Cheers Larry Varley On 5/04/2012 9:53 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > What we are talking about is the standard relays, not the modern head > lamp relays. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Op 5-4-2012 12:19, Larry Varley schreef: >> Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp >> relay is generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than >> a fuse. Do you really want your headlights to decide to go off while >> driving at speed on a winding road? A proper headlamp relay will >> flash the headlights on and off if there is a problem in the wiring, >> as the thermal switch in the relay opens and closes contacts. Food >> for thought. >> Cheers >> Larry Varley >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> >> >> >> ----- >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2409/4915 - datum van uitgifte: >> 04/04/12 From warthodson at aol.com Thu Apr 5 06:56:36 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 08:56:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights & other modern amenities In-Reply-To: <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <8CEE142AB76233A-4B8-11555@webmail-m023.sysops.aol.com> It sounds like it might be time to try fitting the Healey body panels on to the Miata chassis. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Larry Varley To: healeys Sent: Thu, Apr 5, 2012 6:35 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas headlights Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp relay s generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than a fuse. o you really want your headlights to decide to go off while driving at peed on a winding road? A proper headlamp relay will flash the eadlights on and off if there is a problem in the wiring, as the hermal switch in the relay opens and closes contacts. Food for thought. heers arry Varley From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 07:25:09 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 06:25:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> Message-ID: I was going to place inline fuses on the headlamp wires and call it good. I have a pair of Cibie H4 lamps/lenses for my car. Right now Ill keep the sealed beams in it as I have not restarted the car since the loom replacement and I don't want to introduce any additional unknowns, as the bulbs are old. On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 4:53 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > What we are talking about is the standard relays, not the modern head lamp > relays. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > > Op 5-4-2012 12:19, Larry Varley schreef: > >> Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp relay >> is generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than a fuse. Do >> you really want your headlights to decide to go off while driving at speed >> on a winding road? A proper headlamp relay will flash the headlights on and >> off if there is a problem in the wiring, as the thermal switch in the relay >> opens and closes contacts. Food for thought. >> Cheers >> Larry Varley >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl >> >> >> >> ----- >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2409/4915 - datum van uitgifte: >> 04/04/12 >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Thu Apr 5 08:31:17 2012 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 09:31:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 overdrive switch question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > When i accelarate should the lever in the od switch in the bulkhead travel up or down ? Thanks From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 09:30:53 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 08:30:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: There are lots of modern cars on the road that use standard relays to control the headlights that do not have thermal overload protection, and use fuses on the headlights. It is true that the fusing has gone in many cases from 1 or 2 to 4 or more. You cannot make a blanket statement that all headlight relays are "special" and have thermal overload protection. Rick On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 3:19 AM, Larry Varley wrote: > Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp relay > is generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than a fuse. Do > you really want your headlights to decide to go off while driving at speed > on a winding road? A proper headlamp relay will flash the headlights on and > off if there is a problem in the wiring, as the thermal switch in the relay > opens and closes contacts. Food for thought. > Cheers > Larry Varley > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/richard.ewald@**gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 5 09:42:31 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 08:42:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 overdrive switch question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0D9B678C-FCA5-4AF0-92A0-D9D4FEDCEC83@sbcglobal.net> The overdrive kick down lever moves down when you accelerate. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 5, 2012, at 7:31 AM, Jose Vicente Vargas wrote: >> When i accelarate should the lever in the od switch in the >> bulkhead travel > up or down ? > > Thanks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 09:55:53 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 01:55:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? So now you want Headlights. Headlights that actually work?? Buy a Mazda MX5. Or just drive in the daylight like tens of thousands of Healey owners have for 50 odd years. So you want a great looking car, awesome exhaust noise, performance that still mixes it with traffic 50 years later - and headlights??? Next you'll want a heater. And a horn. And a light on the boot.... Home before dark. And think yourself lucky you have a generator. And you don't have to hand crank the starter...... ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 05/04/2012, at 10:22 PM, Larry Varley wrote: > Headlamp relays are not that modern, it's not a good idea to use fused standard relays on headlamp circuits, as you risk the possible loss of headlamps at the worst possible moment. Many old cars didn't use fuses on headlamp circuits for this reason. The problem isn't the relay, it's the fuse. So if people want to use a relay on a headlamp circuit, a proper headlamp relay should be used that has the bi metal overload so there is no total loss of headlamps in the case of a short circuit. > Cheers > Larry Varley > > On 5/04/2012 9:53 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> What we are talking about is the standard relays, not the modern head lamp relays. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> >> Op 5-4-2012 12:19, Larry Varley schreef: >>> Something that I think seems to be missed here, is that a headlamp relay is generally a special relay with thermal overload rather than a fuse. From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 5 10:39:30 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 16:39:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 overdrive switch question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1239434632.514549.1333643970988.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> down -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jose Vicente Vargas" To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2012 7:31:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] Bn2 overdrive switch question > When i accelarate should the lever in the od switch in the bulkhead travel up or down ? Thanks _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net From robertlarson at att.net Thu Apr 5 11:23:49 2012 From: robertlarson at att.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 13:23:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <4F7DD525.9060603@att.net> And in days of old, the cautionary statement that came with all British Motorcycles that were equipped with Lucas ignition and electrics: "Never venture farther than you were willing to push it back home." Bob 55BN1 and misc Brit Bikes On 4/5/2012 11:55 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? > Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? > So now you want Headlights. > Headlights that actually work?? > Buy a Mazda MX5. Or just drive in the daylight like tens of thousands of > Healey owners have for 50 odd years. > So you want a great looking car, awesome exhaust noise, performance that still > mixes it with traffic 50 years later - and headlights??? > Next you'll want a heater. And a horn. And a light on the boot.... > Home before dark. > And think yourself lucky you have a generator. And you don't have to hand > crank the starter...... > ;-) > > > Sent from my iPhone From scvc70 at epix.net Thu Apr 5 12:18:34 2012 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 14:18:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale Message-ID: <029B1F2BE3AE4693B4F4DD3800F98580@valuedea617bbe> As there have been occasional requests from people looking for cars, I wanted to pass along info on a BJ8 for sale here in northeastern Pennsylvania. All I know of the car is that it was a frame-up restoration some years ago, was rarely driven, and has been parked since the brake servos started misbehaving. No idea of asking price. (Info. from the mechanic rebuilding the engine for my car -- he did the restoration on this car.) Contact car owner: Kurt Schultz, (570) 679-2090. NFI, etc.--just hoping to help get another Healey back on the road. Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From healeyguy at bredband.net Thu Apr 5 14:59:40 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Thu, 05 Apr 2012 22:59:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend Lucas, inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is on sale on Ebay from time to time. But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think Lucas electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of the time. I've had a number of other cars with other electrical systems, and have had exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. Per in Sweden Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: > Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? > Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? From warthodson at aol.com Thu Apr 5 16:10:34 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:10:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7DD525.9060603@att.net> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au><4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7DD525.9060603@att.net> Message-ID: <8CEE1900E852BF3-C30-1186@webmail-d026.sysops.aol.com> British motor cycles had a three position headlamp switch, "Off, dim & flicker". Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Bob To: Chris Dimmock ; Healey List Sent: Thu, Apr 5, 2012 1:26 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas headlights And in days of old, the cautionary statement that came with all British otorcycles that were quipped with Lucas ignition and electrics: "Never venture farther than you were willing to push it ack home." Bob 5BN1 and misc Brit Bikes On 4/5/2012 11:55 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? So now you want Headlights. Headlights that actually work?? Buy a Mazda MX5. Or just drive in the daylight like tens of thousands of Healey owners have for 50 odd years. So you want a great looking car, awesome exhaust noise, performance that still mixes it with traffic 50 years later - and headlights??? Next you'll want a heater. And a horn. And a light on the boot.... Home before dark. And think yourself lucky you have a generator. And you don't have to hand crank the starter...... ;-) Sent from my iPhone uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Apr 5 16:25:50 2012 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 08:25:50 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Jensen Healey Photo Message-ID: <0559D01F16624724ACE3D9FBC0786B67@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day Would anyone have a high res image of a Jensen-Healey they can send me please? I am pretty sure that April 2012 marks the 40th anniversary of its first release and I would like to include something in our magazine about it. Many thanks. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From varley at cosmos.net.au Thu Apr 5 16:21:26 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 08:21:26 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: <4F7E1AE6.7060600@cosmos.net.au> Quite true, the only modification my 100 has to the electrical system was to fit a pair of second hand Lucas sealed beam headlights. With a new wiring loom, I have never had a problem with the electrics, and the headlights are perfectly adequate. It's a very simple system, easy to work on and maintain. Given that most of the critical components in my car are almost 60 years old, it's doing ok. Now the Fiat 124BC I once owned......oh dear :) Cheers Larry On 6/04/2012 6:59 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend > Lucas, inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", > that is on sale on Ebay from time to time. > But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think > Lucas electricity systems are worse or better than any other > electrical system of the time. I've had a number of other cars with > other electrical systems, and have had exactly the same problems as > with the Lucas equipped cars. > > Per in Sweden > > Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: >> Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? >> Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 16:48:09 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 06:48:09 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: Although you have to admit that Lucas using a printed circuit board as the rotating contact surface for the instrument light rheostat switch on the rubber bumper MGBs probably was the world's all time zenith of engineered planned obsolescence. That switch was good for maybe 10 adjustments before we were back to warm beer. Sent from my iPad On Apr 6, 2012, at 4:59 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend Lucas, inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is on sale on Ebay from time to time. > But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think Lucas electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of the time. I've had a number of other cars with other electrical systems, and have had exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. > > Per in Sweden > > Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: >> Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? >> Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 16:58:18 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:58:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: Hear hear. I would agree with Per completely furthermore, IMHO Lucas designed systems of old are far easier to repair than those of many other manufacturers. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 4:59 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend > Lucas, inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is > on sale on Ebay from time to time. > But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think Lucas > electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of > the time. I've had a number of other cars with other electrical systems, > and have had exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. > > Per in Sweden > > Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: > > Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? >> Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 18:31:10 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 20:31:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: Michael-- Perhaps that is due to the fact that they needed repair more often. Who else would publish a workshop manual for a lightbulb? Best--Michael Oritt On Thu, Apr 5, 2012 at 6:58 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hear hear. > I would agree with Per completely furthermore, IMHO Lucas designed systems > of old are far easier to repair than those of many other manufacturers. > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 18:42:12 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:42:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: Can you say Marrelli and Fiat. I can say it, I just can't spell it ;) Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 5, 2012 1:59 PM, "Per Schoerner" wrote: > Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend > Lucas, inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is > on sale on Ebay from time to time. > But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think Lucas > electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of > the time. I've had a number of other cars with other electrical systems, > and have had exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. > > Per in Sweden > > Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: > >> Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? >> Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 18:58:42 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 17:58:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: <1A68E260-3977-4F95-A7E8-9D93533E3274@gmail.com> Rivaling that was the MG do-it-all switch on the later MG (turn signal, horn, high beams) That switch had a life expecetency measured in minutes. How bad we're they? -When I ran a parts house in the early 80 I got daily stock orders and I still kept 3 on the shelf -I had a couple of customers (shops) that would call and ask for a use it once and throw it away switch. -it got to be a joke with one guy, he would walk in, I would go back to the shelf grab one, place it on the counter and ask what else he wanted. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 5, 2012, at 15:48, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Although you have to admit that Lucas using a printed circuit board as the > rotating contact surface for the instrument light rheostat switch on the > rubber bumper MGBs probably was the world's all time zenith of engineered > planned obsolescence. > > That switch was good for maybe 10 adjustments before we were back to warm > beer. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Apr 6, 2012, at 4:59 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > >> Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend Lucas, > inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is on sale on > Ebay from time to time. >> But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think Lucas > electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of > the time. I've had a number of other cars with other electrical systems, and > have had exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. >> >> Per in Sweden >> >> Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: >>> Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? >>> Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 5 19:09:53 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 11:09:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E1AE6.7060600@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> <4F7E1AE6.7060600@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <9ADFD92E-C43A-44FC-B369-36D66B177AA9@gmail.com> I was only joking, thought I'd get all the jokes covered in one post....... I too have a new repro harness, and everything that was Lucas, still is on my 3000. Distributor with points, starter motor, generator etc. No high torque starter, no alternator, no Mallory electronics. It all works. It's all been rebuilt, but it's all Lucas. Chris www.myaustinhealey.com Sent from my iPhone On 06/04/2012, at 8:21 AM, Larry Varley wrote: > Quite true, the only modification my 100 has to the electrical system was to fit a pair of second hand Lucas sealed beam headlights. With a new wiring loom, I have never had a problem with the electrics, and the headlights are perfectly adequate. It's a very simple system, easy to work on and maintain. Given that most of the critical components in my car are almost 60 years old, it's doing ok. Now the Fiat 124BC I once owned......oh dear :) > Cheers > Larry > > On 6/04/2012 6:59 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: >> Well, I think it's rather fun, all these statements about our friend Lucas, inventor of darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is on sale on Ebay from time to time. >> But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't think Lucas electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of the time. I've had a number of other cars with other electrical systems, and have had exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. >> >> Per in Sweden >> >> Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: >>> Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest "Home before dark"? >>> Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product that didn't suck?? >> _____________________________ From bce257 at yahoo.co.nz Thu Apr 5 19:32:31 2012 From: bce257 at yahoo.co.nz (Andrew Thorp) Date: Thu, 5 Apr 2012 18:32:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: <1333675951.64015.YahooMailClassic@web160301.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> It always saddens me a little to think that Lucas never receives proper credit for inventing the intermittent window wiper Andy. --- On Fri, 6/4/12, Per Schoerner wrote: > From: Per Schoerner > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Lucas headlights > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Received: Friday, 6 April, 2012, 8:59 AM > Well, I think it's rather fun, all > these statements about our friend Lucas, inventor of > darkness. Not to mention the "Lucas smoke kit", that is on > sale on Ebay from time to time. > But to be honest, it's not really fair to blame him. I don't > think Lucas electricity systems are worse or better than any > other electrical system of the time. I've had a number of > other cars with other electrical systems, and have had > exactly the same problems as with the Lucas equipped cars. > > Per in Sweden > > Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-05 17:55: > > Isn't the inscription below the Lucas Family Crest > "Home before dark"? > > Isn't the Lucas Vacuum Cleaner the only Lucas product > that didn't suck?? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 5 20:57:52 2012 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 02:57:52 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?lucas_headlights?= Message-ID: <20120406025752.18818.qmail@server278.com> "gentlemen do not motor about after dark". problem solved!! From shop at justbrits.com Thu Apr 5 23:14:30 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 00:14:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> Message-ID: <4F7E7BB6.2020108@justbrits.com> << On 4/5/2012 3:59 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: I don't think Lucas electricity systems are worse or better than any other electrical system of the time. >> and << On 4/5/2012 5:58 PM, Michael Salter wrote: .....furthermore, IMHO Lucas designed systems of old are far easier to repair than those of many other manufacturers. >> AGREED, Per and Michael ! ! ! In my FIFTYish+ (50+) years (Very Big Sigh) of working on (mostly - @97/5%) British LBCs all of which were equipped with Lucas Electrics and those that were 100 % ORIGINAL had ZERO probs. Let Mr. I-know-better, Mr. I-gots-a better-idear, I'll-just-use-dis-here-wire, Scotch-Locs -are-the-cats-a**, Mr. just-twist-dat-der-wire-together, Mr. but-I-can't-read-no-diagram [even if I HAD one], Mr. what's-a-shop-manual [guy dat does da work?] ??? , and da rest of his brothers get their heavy-handed, dumb a**ed paws on a car that actually DOES have a legit electrical problem and God help the MECHANIC that has to fix it CORRECTLY ! ! ! Perfect example is a '53 MGTD that I got in with "light" problem, battery dies in two (2) days, a headlight out (hi beam works), RR Brake light out but turn signal works, and a couple other things I can't recall off hand. Three (3) hours into troubleshooting and I said to myself, "Screw this ! !" ! ! So I call Owner and explain what I have found so far. I STRONGLY suggest to Customer that replacing the entire harness would be CHEAPEST & BEST way to complete the electrical portion of the job. In a VERY typical LBC Owner response, he says no --- just fix as best you can inorder to get everything working properly !?!?!? All of the Gent's mentioned above 'talents' were involved with this TD with the addition of left-out Mr. alls-I-gots-is-yellow,-stranded-12awg-wire, Mr. alls-I-gots-is-white,-solidcore- 16awg-wire and Mr. alls-I-gots-is-yellow-connectors(all kinds). This chaps contributed Greatly[to my wallet] ! ! All-in-all; Electrical System Labour = 69 hours. Parts included CORRECT colour coded wires in correct sizes, bullit connectors [2, & 4 wire], bullits [both solder & bare wire types], ring terminals [solder & blue/red/yellow crimper style], several sizes of heat shrink tubing, several [by the yard] sizes & yards of harness protection tubing and two (2) rolls of 3-M black electrical tape. Socket Assemblies for Turn/Marker/Brake Signals, Head Lights & a couple Dash Light fixtures. Also, couple dozen of assorted clamps & clips for harness/wires retention. I will flatly tell you that unless some ham-fisted nitwit returns to fix something that AIN'T broke, my "harness" will last another 50+ years [just like a brand NEW one would] ! ! ! So as both of the Authors sited above allude to; Follow/Obey The K.I.S.S. rule ! ! ! ! Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 6 02:50:44 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 10:50:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <1A68E260-3977-4F95-A7E8-9D93533E3274@gmail.com> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> <1A68E260-3977-4F95-A7E8-9D93533E3274@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F7EAE64.9070004@chello.nl> These switch clusters may go wrong in the hands of some ham fisted individuals but they do usually survive quite well. In my Jensen Healey of 1974 are exactly the same clusters and they have survived nearly 40 years of use. These switch clusters can be found in countless other LBCs from the era,BMC (Austin/Morris/Wolseley/Riley/Rover), Land/Range Rover, Vauxhall, Rootes etc. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 6-4-2012 2:58, Richard Ewald schreef: > Rivaling that was the MG do-it-all switch on the later MG (turn signal, horn, > high beams) > That switch had a life expecetency measured in minutes. > How bad we're they? > -When I ran a parts house in the early 80 I got daily stock orders and I still > kept 3 on the shelf > -I had a couple of customers (shops) that would call and ask for a use it once > and throw it away switch. > -it got to be a joke with one guy, he would walk in, I would go back to the > shelf grab one, place it on the counter and ask what else he wanted. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 5, 2012, at 15:48, Alan Seigrist wrote: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Fri Apr 6 03:39:53 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Fri, 06 Apr 2012 11:39:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Lucas headlights In-Reply-To: <4F7E7BB6.2020108@justbrits.com> References: <4F7D5270.2050403@chello.nl> <4F7D71B7.3050204@cosmos.net.au> <4F7D87BA.1060408@chello.nl> <4F7D8E98.6080802@cosmos.net.au> <4F7E07BC.5040504@bredband.net> <4F7E7BB6.2020108@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <4F7EB9E9.7040608@chello.nl> Basically there is only one flaw in the Lucas electrics: the bullet connectors. Very prone to corrosion as they are made from two different metal alloys thus electrolytic corrosion. The other electrical problems are mainly caused by the fitting of the wiring looms in the car by the manufacturers. Just have a look under the dash or around the headlamps/indicators, just one mess of wires and (double) bullet connectors running everywhere. And there are other areas as we all know. A bit of rearranging and tidying up will improve matters no end. Also spraying the bullet connectors with a rust proofing wax or better the special grease for electrics helps. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 6-4-2012 7:14, " Just Brits " Shop schreef: > AGREED, Per and Michael ! ! ! > > In my FIFTYish+ (50+) years (Very Big Sigh) of working on > (mostly - @97/5%) British > LBCs all of which were equipped with Lucas Electrics and those that > were 100 % ORIGINAL > had ZERO probs. > > Let Mr. I-know-better, Mr. I-gots-a better-idear, > I'll-just-use-dis-here-wire, Scotch-Locs > -are-the-cats-a**, Mr. just-twist-dat-der-wire-together, Mr. > but-I-can't-read-no-diagram > [even if I HAD one], Mr. what's-a-shop-manual [guy dat does da work?] > ??? , and da rest of > his brothers get their heavy-handed, dumb a**ed paws on a car that > actually DOES have a > legit electrical problem and God help the MECHANIC that has to fix it > CORRECTLY ! ! ! From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 6 07:05:49 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 09:05:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lucas (was headlights) In-Reply-To: <20120406025752.18818.qmail@server278.com> References: <20120406025752.18818.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <000101cd13f5$fd880ec0$f8982c40$@net> In all honesty, I have always found that the earlier the Lucas part was manufactured, the better the quality and the more robust and dependable the item is. As others have pointed out, these earlier components were built in an era where things were designed to be able to be serviced, adjusted, cleaned, repaired, and Lucas electrical components certainly fall into this category. The only problems I've ever encountered with Lucas electrics beyond long life and eventual wear out, have been due to people adding, changing, adjusting or trying to "improve" things when they don't know what they're doing, but their buddy told them it would be a good idea! I will state that Lucas components went cheap and poor quality from about 1968 on, with crappy spring loaded rocker switches, their bimetal instrumentation, alternators, etc. Therefore staying with original spec equipment on our Healeys built to the end of '67 will keep us out of the woods. In my experience the new replacement wiring harnesses we are installing in our restorations today are very well made, accurate and dependable. The crap I've been reading here, even in fun, must have the newbies in this hobby very worried about their electricals. Rich From scvc70 at epix.net Fri Apr 6 09:04:23 2012 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 11:04:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale -- WITHDRAWN References: <029B1F2BE3AE4693B4F4DD3800F98580@valuedea617bbe> Message-ID: <1CE8F846367C46BF98FC753FE703F77D@valuedea617bbe> It seems there was a misunderstanding somewhere in the chain of communication -- some of Mr. Schultz's other cars (non-LBC) are for sale, but not the BJ8 at this time, so please do not contact him about it. Another example of "no good deed goes unpunished...." Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carr&Edwards" To: "Healey list" Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 2:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale > As there have been occasional requests from people looking for cars, I > wanted > to pass along info on a BJ8 for sale here in northeastern Pennsylvania. > > All I know of the car is that it was a frame-up restoration some years > ago, > was rarely driven, and has been parked since the brake servos started > misbehaving. No idea of asking price. (Info. from the mechanic > rebuilding > the engine for my car -- he did the restoration on this car.) Contact car > owner: Kurt Schultz, (570) 679-2090. > > NFI, etc.--just hoping to help get another Healey back on the road. > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ From jtrifari at comcast.net Fri Apr 6 10:07:47 2012 From: jtrifari at comcast.net (John Trifari) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 09:07:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Light Circuits In-Reply-To: References: <4F7CAE61.90802@comcast.net> <0031FCC3-22D7-4BB6-83AC-6AC3D23E7F17@sbcglobal.net> <001301cd12d5$b0adda10$12098e30$@net> Message-ID: <007301cd140f$69383a50$3ba8aef0$@net> Michael-I was under the impression that the discussion had to do with relays not fuses. My headlights are not fused-four fuses as per Dave's suggestion is probably a good idea but I haven't got around to it yet (driving lights are fused). Relays are another matter-as I said, I've been there/done that and don't think too much of the idea (lot of extra wire tucked up under the dash of the BN1). John From tomfelts at windstream.net Fri Apr 6 10:10:35 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 12:10:35 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale -- WITHDRAWN In-Reply-To: <1CE8F846367C46BF98FC753FE703F77D@valuedea617bbe> Message-ID: <20120406121035.M5Z58.55667.root@pamxwww04-z01> my most famous quote!!:):) tom ---- Carr&Edwards wrote: ============= It seems there was a misunderstanding somewhere in the chain of communication -- some of Mr. Schultz's other cars (non-LBC) are for sale, but not the BJ8 at this time, so please do not contact him about it. Another example of "no good deed goes unpunished...." Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carr&Edwards" To: "Healey list" Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 2:18 PM Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale > As there have been occasional requests from people looking for cars, I > wanted > to pass along info on a BJ8 for sale here in northeastern Pennsylvania. > > All I know of the car is that it was a frame-up restoration some years > ago, > was rarely driven, and has been parked since the brake servos started > misbehaving. No idea of asking price. (Info. from the mechanic > rebuilding > the engine for my car -- he did the restoration on this car.) Contact car > owner: Kurt Schultz, (570) 679-2090. > > NFI, etc.--just hoping to help get another Healey back on the road. > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > _______________________________________________ Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 6 10:15:48 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 16:15:48 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale -- WITHDRAWN In-Reply-To: <1CE8F846367C46BF98FC753FE703F77D@valuedea617bbe> Message-ID: <623950448.559090.1333728948607.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Soooooooooooooooo ... he came to his senses and decided to keep the Healey and dump the Duesenbergs, Ferarris, Bugattis, Lambos, Mercedeses and Bimmers? bs -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- It seems there was a misunderstanding somewhere in the chain of communication -- some of Mr. Schultz's other cars (non-LBC) are for sale, but not the BJ8 at this time, so please do not contact him about it. Another example of "no good deed goes unpunished...." Sarah Carr BN1 in PA From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Apr 6 10:26:30 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 17:26:30 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale -- WITHDRAWN In-Reply-To: <1CE8F846367C46BF98FC753FE703F77D@valuedea617bbe> References: <029B1F2BE3AE4693B4F4DD3800F98580@valuedea617bbe> <1CE8F846367C46BF98FC753FE703F77D@valuedea617bbe> Message-ID: Sarah If he ain't going to sell it then tell him to drive it! Derek www.healeysix.net On Fri, Apr 6, 2012 at 4:04 PM, Carr&Edwards wrote: > It seems there was a misunderstanding somewhere in the chain of > communication -- some of Mr. Schultz's other cars (non-LBC) are for sale, > but not the BJ8 at this time, so please do not contact him about it. > > Another example of "no good deed goes unpunished...." > > Sarah Carr > BN1 in PA > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Carr&Edwards" > To: "Healey list" > Sent: Thursday, April 05, 2012 2:18 PM > Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale > > > As there have been occasional requests from people looking for cars, I >> wanted >> to pass along info on a BJ8 for sale here in northeastern Pennsylvania. >> >> All I know of the car is that it was a frame-up restoration some years >> ago, >> was rarely driven, and has been parked since the brake servos started >> misbehaving. No idea of asking price. (Info. from the mechanic >> rebuilding >> the engine for my car -- he did the restoration on this car.) Contact car >> owner: Kurt Schultz, (570) 679-2090. >> >> NFI, etc.--just hoping to help get another Healey back on the road. >> >> Sarah Carr >> BN1 in PA >> ______________________________**_________________ >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Sat Apr 7 06:48:09 2012 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 06:48:09 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healey Art Message-ID: <0F688B03-49BA-4008-B834-B3010FF8D260@comcast.net> Hi Gang, Thanks to everyone who have given good homes to some of the toys and models! Continuing to share my duplicates etc. Delete if your not interested. I am offering them first to the Healey List and lastly to eBay. Photos can be emailed if you are truly interested. #1: a Print not sure if the original was pencil or pen & ink (or something else) of DMH portrait surrounded by all the vehicles (including the plane) that he had a significant role with. Under his portrait reads: Donald M. Healey, C.B.E. 1898 - 1988. It measures 23 3/8 inches X 16 1/2 inches. $25.00 minimum. Make me an offer I can't refuse. #2: A fine art Lithograph signed by the artist Nick Beringer and by Bic Healey. Normally these are numbered, but this one has no AP or number. It is of a MK1 3000 in Blue over OEW with a Hardtop. $100.00 minimum. It measures 21 3/4 inches X 16 inches. #3: A beautiful color poster/print signed and numbered (282/1000) by the artist both in the poster and on the print of a 3000MKIII in Green. This one is a cutaway showing the engine details and the interior details, they have been unavailable for a long time. It measures 26 inches X 20 inches. $50.00 minimum. Still with the offers. These are all unmounted and would be mailed rolled in a mailing tube. Mailing 1st class Airmail would cost $5.00 in the USA. $10.00 to most of Europe and Australia. Thanks for the interest. Richard Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred at comcast.net From warthodson at aol.com Sat Apr 7 06:49:58 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 08:49:58 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment Message-ID: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> When adjusting HD type carbs, I generally prefer to back off the fast idle screw so that the throttle is fully closed (after disconnecting any interconnecting linkage) & attempt to set the idle speed with the idle screws. I have no trouble doing this with HD4 & HD6 carbs. Including tricarb cars with both HD4's & HD6's. Yes, I know those are not the original tricarbs. My problem & question concerns the HD8's which seem to defy being adjusted this way. I never seem to be able to open the idle screw far enough to increase the idle speed to an acceptable level. In many of these cases the HD8's have been recently fully restored professionally & the cars are in very good condition. Am I correct in believing that this is a common problem? If yes, what are the theories that explain why HD8's behave this way? Yes, I know there are two (or more) schools of thought on how to adjust carbs. Thanks, Gary From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 7 10:48:57 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 09:48:57 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F806FF9.2080109@comcast.net> Welllllllllll ... since you asked for 'theories:' Seems possible that SU used the same size passageways for the HD8s as for earlier carbs (HX6s). Since the BJ8 has a 'hotter' cam, allowing greater airflow, the passageways may be too small to allow enough mixture flow at idle. Or maybe the passageways are larger, but still not large enough to allow for greater necessary mixture flow. Also, I believe earlier carbs had no bypass circuit at all, so idle was set in the 'traditional' fashion. At any rate, I never liked the idea of the throttle plates being allowed to slam shut against the throttle bore, so I tune my BJ8's HD8s with just a bit of throttle open at idle. That way, the throttle stops perform their named purpose, instead of the throttle bores, and I can fine-tune the idle--e.g. for air density changes at altitude--easily and return them when I land. Bob On 4/7/2012 5:49 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > When adjusting HD type carbs, I generally prefer to back off the fast idle > screw so that the throttle is fully closed (after disconnecting any > interconnecting linkage)& attempt to set the idle speed with the idle screws. > I have no trouble doing this with HD4& HD6 carbs. Including tricarb cars with > both HD4's& HD6's. Yes, I know those are not the original tricarbs. My > problem& question concerns the HD8's which seem to defy being adjusted this > way. I never seem to be able to open the idle screw far enough to increase the > idle speed to an acceptable level. In many of these cases the HD8's have been > recently fully restored professionally& the cars are in very good condition. > Am I correct in believing that this is a common problem? If yes, what are the > theories that explain why HD8's behave this way? Yes, I know there are two (or > more) schools of thought on how to adjust carbs. > Thanks, > Gary > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Apr 7 10:53:23 2012 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 12:53:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <003f01cd14de$f1e14520$d5a3cf60$@rr.com> Gary, being frustrated with the clarity of available instructions for adjusting HD8 carbs in the SU and workshop manuals, I wrote my own procedures for doing the job and illustrated them with photographs. These instructions are available on the web, and I recently heard from someone who was using them but running into the same problem you describe. He says that he cannot get the car to idle fast enough with the fast idle screws backed off completely and running on the "slow run valves" alone (the big idle screws). I have not personally run into this before, nor have I heard from anyone else who has used the instructions that they have the problem, either. The car in question is a new one to the owner, so we don't know what condition it was in when he bought it, nor do I know at this point if the preliminary adjustments (valves adjusted, timing checked, ignition components in good shape, etc.) have been done/checked, or if the initial settings of the Jet Adjusting Screws (2-1/2 turns clockwise (rich) from jet flush with the bridge) or the Slow Run Valve adjustment of three full turns counterclockwise from the seat have been done. For my own car, the initial setting of the Slow Run Valves is sufficient that I have to turn the screws down to slow the engine to the idle speed setting of 500 RPM. I would be interested in the responses to Gary's question also. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2012 8:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment When adjusting HD type carbs, I generally prefer to back off the fast idle screw so that the throttle is fully closed (after disconnecting any interconnecting linkage) & attempt to set the idle speed with the idle screws. I have no trouble doing this with HD4 & HD6 carbs. Including tricarb cars with both HD4's & HD6's. Yes, I know those are not the original tricarbs. My problem & question concerns the HD8's which seem to defy being adjusted this way. I never seem to be able to open the idle screw far enough to increase the idle speed to an acceptable level. In many of these cases the HD8's have been recently fully restored professionally & the cars are in very good condition. Am I correct in believing that this is a common problem? If yes, what are the theories that explain why HD8's behave this way? Yes, I know there are two (or more) schools of thought on how to adjust carbs. Thanks, Gary From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 7 16:22:20 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 15:22:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 at BJ Message-ID: <4F80BE1C.1080101@comcast.net> Just caught a little of the BJ Florida auction (taped I imagine). A Tanner BJ8--in MGB, of course--just went for $120K. Sold to a woman; way cool. bs -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Apr 7 17:31:13 2012 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 16:31:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 at BJ In-Reply-To: <4F80BE1C.1080101@comcast.net> References: <4F80BE1C.1080101@comcast.net> Message-ID: where was she when i was selling my BRG BJ8 last year?? ron On Sat, Apr 7, 2012 at 3:22 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > Just caught a little of the BJ Florida auction (taped I imagine). A > Tanner BJ8--in MGB, of course--just went for $120K. Sold to a woman; way > cool. From healey.nut at gmail.com Sat Apr 7 17:31:13 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 07:31:13 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Gary - These symptoms are suggestive of too much air or too much throttle coming through the carb. I've VERY successfully set up HD8s on my BJ8, and also on my friend's S1 E-type. Actually the E-type is even more sensitive as it gets very sensitive to settings having three carbs and the slow idle bypass on the Etype is probably slightly too much port for the engine, but I always manage a nice steady idle around 550 rpms for all cars. I also have HD6s on my Jag Mk IX... idles like a purring kitty. The key thing here is as follows (in most important order): 1) The throttle plates MUST be adjusted to sit flush closed in the throttle body. I suspect this is your problem right here. When the carbs were rebuilt, I suspect the rebuilder did not flush the plate with the throttle body. This is a very common mistake because on H and HS carbs, having these plates flush isn't that important. But on an HD carb, especially the fat throat HD8, it must be set as flush as humanely possible. The only way to fix this is to take the carbs off the car, loosen the throttle plate screws, and hold them up to the light and make sure little or no light is showing through the edges of the throttle plate. If you do this, your idle will drop like a rock and your slow idle will work properly. 2) Slow Idle screw O ring. The slow idle function on an HD8 carb is VERY sensitive to having a good seal on the O-ring around the slow idle screw. If there is any leakage around here, you can have significant idle variations both up or down depending on how your mixture is set. You can test for this problem by squirting some 3&1 oil or motor oil around the O ring, sealing it up, and seeing how it responds. Note, whenever I rebuild an HD8, I always smear motor oil on this O-ring... it really seams to help considering no one makes the original type sealing rings for this anymore. 3) Finally, the throttle shaft bushings need to be sealed. On the HD8, these seals are teflon, and should have been replaced during rebuild. Again, you can check for failure here by squirting oil on both sides of the shafts and seeing if that settles your idle down. If so, then your rebuilder did not replace the teflon bushings. You can do it yourself, it's a bit fiddly but you don't need special equipment to replace the bushings. Give that stuff a try and get back to me. I suspect #1. Note that HD carbs are still my favorite.... I find they are great for setting a beautifully clean idle for tens of thousands of miles without any need for further adjustment (provided the carb is set up right!). Cheers, Alan From warthodson at aol.com Sat Apr 7 18:07:30 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 20:07:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment Message-ID: <8CEE332B92842BD-39C-AD4B@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> Steve, I have a copy of your excellent instructions & follow the procedure with one significant exception. Your instructions state that the slow run valves (what I called the idle screws) are used to set the Idle at 500 RPM, then (after the mixture & balance are set) the fast idle screw is used to raise the idle to 1000 RPM. The exception is, that it is my understanding that, the idle should be set entirely with the slow run valve & the fast idle screws are set so that they are not in contact with what you call the throttle shaft stop lever. The fast idle screw should only contact the throttle shaft stop lever when the choke is pulled out. The choke actually performs two functions in sequence, (1) is to raise the idle speed & (2) is to lower the main jet to richen the mixture. However, on the HD8's that I have attempted to adjust, I cannot raise the idle speed high enough with the slow run valves & am forced to raise the speed with the fast idle screw. So I do end up using your proceedure, but it conflicts with what I have read & Jim Taylor used to teach. One point of clarification. With HD8's, I can get the idle up to 500 RPM with the slow run valves but not up to 1000 RPM with the slow run valves. With HD6's I can. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: BJ8 Healeys To: healeys Sent: Sat, Apr 7, 2012 1:25 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment Gary, being frustrated with the clarity of available instructions for djusting HD8 carbs in the SU and workshop manuals, I wrote my own rocedures for doing the job and illustrated them with photographs. These nstructions are available on the web, and I recently heard from someone who as using them but running into the same problem you describe. e says that he cannot get the car to idle fast enough with the fast idle crews backed off completely and running on the "slow run valves" alone (the ig idle screws). I have not personally run into this before, nor have I eard from anyone else who has used the instructions that they have the roblem, either. From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Apr 7 19:13:49 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 19:13:49 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <828E9DC76503465FB86126C8BB64D3D8@oscar> it is imperative to assure that the ignition timing is at the factory recommended setting ( I think 6 degrees on a 6 cyl healey) then there should be no problem achieving the 650-750rpm (guessing again)factory idle speed. The HD8 carbs use an air bleed screw to set the idle speed. The other are merely stops to keep the butterflies from sticking in the shut position. The low idle speed corresponds with the distributors curve. If the idle is still too high then the mixture is likely a little too rich. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of warthodson at aol.com Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2012 6:50 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment When adjusting HD type carbs, I generally prefer to back off the fast idle screw so that the throttle is fully closed (after disconnecting any interconnecting linkage) & attempt to set the idle speed with the idle screws. I have no trouble doing this with HD4 & HD6 carbs. Including tricarb cars with both HD4's & HD6's. Yes, I know those are not the original tricarbs. My problem & question concerns the HD8's which seem to defy being adjusted this way. I never seem to be able to open the idle screw far enough to increase the idle speed to an acceptable level. In many of these cases the HD8's have been recently fully restored professionally & the cars are in very good condition. Am I correct in believing that this is a common problem? If yes, what are the theories that explain why HD8's behave this way? Yes, I know there are two (or From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Sat Apr 7 23:04:43 2012 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steven) Date: Sat, 07 Apr 2012 22:04:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) Message-ID: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Hi All, I've got a 61 BN7 that recently began to experience what felt like fuel starvation (spitting and sputtering). At first it only acted up after a drive and it sat for a couple of minutes but now it's doing it all the time. I almost didn't make it home today. As it's a fresh restoration and have been driving it since October with no issues I'm kind of stumped. It's got a new fuel pump and carbs have been rebuilt so I thought it might be the fuel filter which is located just after the fuel pump, so I replaced it but same symptoms kept happening. I should mention that my fuel pump is running like crazy and louder than normal, unless I'm at idle for a while until the fuel line fills up and then it quits down. But when I begin to drive, it gets very loud again like it can't keep the line full, then the spitting and sputtering stars all over again. I did check to see if there's a fuel leak but no leak exists. Any one have any ideas? Steve 61' BN7 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 00:06:12 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 7 Apr 2012 23:06:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) In-Reply-To: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> References: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Message-ID: Screen on fuel line pick up from take is clogged? Dissconnect fuel line from pump to tank and blow In to it with fuel cap off to see if screen in tank is clogged. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 7, 2012 10:04 PM, "Steven" wrote: > Hi All, > I've got a 61 BN7 that recently began to experience what felt like fuel > starvation (spitting and sputtering). At first it only acted up after a > drive and it sat for a couple of minutes but now it's doing it all the > time. I almost didn't make it home today. As it's a fresh restoration and > have been driving it since October with no issues I'm kind of stumped. > It's got a new fuel pump and carbs have been rebuilt so I thought it might > be the fuel filter which is located just after the fuel pump, so I replaced > it but same symptoms kept happening. I should mention that my fuel pump is > running like crazy and louder than normal, unless I'm at idle for a while > until the fuel line fills up and then it quits down. But when I begin to > drive, it gets very loud again like it can't keep the line full, then the > spitting and sputtering stars all over again. I did check to see if > there's a fuel leak but no leak exists. Any one have any ideas? > > Steve > 61' BN7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Apr 8 03:09:38 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 11:09:38 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) In-Reply-To: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> References: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F8155D2.80102@chello.nl> I have to agree with Ira. Fresh restauration, first thing to check is clogged fuel lines and filters. Were all rubber tubes replaced? Was the tank cleaned? If not do now. Old tubing will dissolve and dry dirt will dislodge and clog lines and filters. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 8-4-2012 7:04, Steven schreef: > Hi All, > I've got a 61 BN7 that recently began to experience what felt like > fuel starvation (spitting and sputtering). At first it only acted up > after a drive and it sat for a couple of minutes but now it's doing it > all the time. I almost didn't make it home today. As it's a fresh > restoration and have been driving it since October with no issues I'm > kind of stumped. It's got a new fuel pump and carbs have been rebuilt > so I thought it might be the fuel filter which is located just after > the fuel pump, so I replaced it but same symptoms kept happening. I > should mention that my fuel pump is running like crazy and louder than > normal, unless I'm at idle for a while until the fuel line fills up > and then it quits down. But when I begin to drive, it gets very loud > again like it can't keep the line full, then the spitting and > sputtering stars all over again. I did check to see if there's a fuel > leak but no leak exists. Any one have any ideas? > > Steve > 61' BN7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2409/4920 - datum van uitgifte: > 04/07/12 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 03:21:08 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 10:21:08 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) In-Reply-To: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> References: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Message-ID: Steve, Re Ira's comment. Is it the original fuel tank? If so corrosion may be the cause as little pieces floating around can block the outlet. Blast it with an airline. I had this problem and it drove me crazy until i finally bought an aluminium tank. Another problem I had was with an aftermarket filler cap which caused a vacumn in the fuel tank and as the tank got emptier you could hear the fuel pump clattering similar to if you had an air ingress. Derek www.healeysix.net On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 6:04 AM, Steven wrote: > Hi All, > I've got a 61 BN7 that recently began to experience what felt like fuel > starvation (spitting and sputtering). At first it only acted up after a > drive and it sat for a couple of minutes but now it's doing it all the > time. I almost didn't make it home today. As it's a fresh restoration and > have been driving it since October with no issues I'm kind of stumped. > It's got a new fuel pump and carbs have been rebuilt so I thought it might > be the fuel filter which is located just after the fuel pump, so I replaced > it but same symptoms kept happening. I should mention that my fuel pump is > running like crazy and louder than normal, unless I'm at idle for a while > until the fuel line fills up and then it quits down. But when I begin to > drive, it gets very loud again like it can't keep the line full, then the > spitting and sputtering stars all over again. I did check to see if > there's a fuel leak but no leak exists. Any one have any ideas? > > Steve > 61' BN7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 05:11:33 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 07:11:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) In-Reply-To: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> References: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Message-ID: Steve-- Sounds like there might be a problem with fuel supply--perhaps a clog in the pickup or the mesh sock filter filter if fitted. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 1:04 AM, Steven wrote: > Hi All, > I've got a 61 BN7 that recently began to experience what felt like fuel > starvation (spitting and sputtering). At first it only acted up after a > drive and it sat for a couple of minutes but now it's doing it all the > time. I almost didn't make it home today. As it's a fresh restoration and > have been driving it since October with no issues I'm kind of stumped. > It's got a new fuel pump and carbs have been rebuilt so I thought it might > be the fuel filter which is located just after the fuel pump, so I replaced > it but same symptoms kept happening. I should mention that my fuel pump is > running like crazy and louder than normal, unless I'm at idle for a while > until the fuel line fills up and then it quits down. But when I begin to > drive, it gets very loud again like it can't keep the line full, then the > spitting and sputtering stars all over again. I did check to see if > there's a fuel leak but no leak exists. Any one have any ideas? > > Steve > 61' BN7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/michael.oritt@**gmail.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sun Apr 8 06:30:50 2012 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 08:30:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE332B92842BD-39C-AD4B@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE332B92842BD-39C-AD4B@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <008301cd1583$6ed75fc0$4c861f40$@rr.com> Gary, I have reviewed the several different sources available to me on adjustments of the HD8 carburetor, and I have to agree that they all specify using the "Slow Run Valves" (only), to control the idle speed, with the fast idle screws being used to control the fast idle through the choke when the engine is cold. I'll update and correct my procedures based on that. Thanks for pointing it out. My annual tune-up will occur soon, and I'll see how the updated procedures work for me. The procedures as they are have been working fine for me for several years and it will be interesting to see how the change makes a difference. The re-review of the various sources (workshop manual, SU manual, Chilton's and Glenn's repair manuals) reminded me again how confusing they all are in using different nomenclature for the same part, different idle speeds, referring to other sections that don't apply, etc. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2012 8:08 PM To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment Steve, I have a copy of your excellent instructions & follow the procedure with one significant exception. Your instructions state that the slow run valves (what I called the idle screws) are used to set the Idle at 500 RPM, then (after the mixture & balance are set) the fast idle screw is used to raise the idle to 1000 RPM. The exception is, that it is my understanding that, the idle should be set entirely with the slow run valve & the fast idle screws are set so that they are not in contact with what you call the throttle shaft stop lever. The fast idle screw should only contact the throttle shaft stop lever when the choke is pulled out. The choke actually performs two functions in sequence, (1) is to raise the idle speed & (2) is to lower the main jet to richen the mixture. However, on the HD8's that I have attempted to adjust, I cannot raise the idle speed high enough with the slow run valves & am forced to raise the speed with the fast idle screw. So I do end up using your proceedure, but it conflicts with what I have read & Jim Taylor used to teach. One point of clarification. With HD8's, I can get the idle up to 500 RPM with the slow run valves but not up to 1000 RPM with the slow run valves. With HD6's I can. Gary Hodson From chucknsueo at aol.com Sun Apr 8 06:49:40 2012 From: chucknsueo at aol.com (Chuck Ott) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 08:49:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) In-Reply-To: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> References: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CEE39D327FA4E8-1E5C-1954C@webmail-m079.sysops.aol.com> Steve, I have had this problem with a BT-7, I put on a brand new fuel pump and it didn't seem to want to pump enough fuel.? It turned out that there was a crack in the threaded fitting that held the fuel line onto the pump inlet and it would not tighten enough.? It was sucking in air with the fuel.? I replaced the fitting and tightened the inlet line securely and the problem went away.? You might want to check your connections between the fuel tank and the pump. Chuck Ott 67 BJ8, 69 AN9 -----Original Message----- From: Steven <stevesylvia2 at comcast.net> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, Apr 8, 2012 1:31 am Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) Hi All, I've got a 61 BN7 that recently began to experience what felt like fuel starvation (spitting and sputtering). At first it only acted up after a drive and it sat for a couple of minutes but now it's doing it all the time. I almost didn't make it home today. As it's a fresh restoration and have been driving it since October with no issues I'm kind of stumped. It's got a new fuel pump and carbs have been rebuilt so I thought it might be the fuel filter which is located just after the fuel pump, so I replaced it but same symptoms kept happening. I should mention that my fuel pump is running like crazy and louder than normal, unless I'm at idle for a while until the fuel line fills up and then it quits down. But when I begin to drive, it gets very loud again like it can't keep the line full, then the spitting and sputtering stars all over again. I did check to see if there's a fuel leak but no leak exists. Any one have any ideas? Steve 61' BN7 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chucknsueo at aol.com From warthodson at aol.com Sun Apr 8 07:28:06 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 09:28:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE339A2686A50-39C-AFB7@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> <8CEE339A2686A50-39C-AFB7@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CEE3A290D9611E-108C-CA75@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Alan, Thanks for the very good analysis of the problem. I agree the #1 is the most likely suspect. Next time I am involved in a fresh BJ8 startup I will try to inspect the throttle plate alignment. That should be in about two weeks. As I recall, aren't the two screws that hold the throttle plate on the shaft usually deformed (I think the term is "staked") to keep the screws from coming loose? That would make adjusting the throttle plates very difficult. I guess the solution is to inspect the carbs when they come back from the rebuilder, not after they are installed. Gary Hodson From warthodson at aol.com Sun Apr 8 07:57:07 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 09:57:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Vapor Lock Symptoms (Kind Of) In-Reply-To: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> References: <4F811C6B.1050906@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CEE3A69EC7AD7C-108C-CC8F@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Steven, This sounds like an air leak on the suction side of the fuel pump. These can be very difficult to find. I accidentally found one on my car. I filled the tank up so that there was fuel in the filler tube leading from the gas cap to the tank. About 6" from the top of the tube. With the engine off & the right wheel off so that you can look closely at the fuel line from the tank to the pump, inspect the connections both at the pump & at the fuel tank (in the trunk) to see if any gas is seeping out. The column of fuel in the filler tube should create enough pressure is cause fuel to leak out where air would be drawn in during driving. I hope this makes sense. Stoping the air leak can also be difficult. Good luck Gary Hodson From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 09:20:06 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 01:20:06 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <008301cd1583$6ed75fc0$4c861f40$@rr.com> References: <8CEE332B92842BD-39C-AD4B@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> <008301cd1583$6ed75fc0$4c861f40$@rr.com> Message-ID: <2BC5FB73-C7E6-4B68-B47F-F2195D7FEDD2@gmail.com> See. That's why the DHMCo fitted webers. Triple 45 DCOEs are far easier to set up and maintain. ;-) <== That's a smilie. With a wink. Love my triple webered Healey. :-) <== that's just a smile I do love my triple webers. Oh. And I haven't "adjusted" my webers for at least 10 years ;-) Chis Sent from my iPhone On 08/04/2012, at 10:30 PM, "BJ8 Healeys" wrote: > Gary, I have reviewed the several differente sources available to me on > adjustments of the HD8 carburetor, and I have to agree that they all specify > using the "Slow Run Valves" (only), to control the idle speed, with the fast > idle screws being used to control the fast idle through the choke when the > engine is cold. I'll update and correct my procedures based on that. > Thanks for pointing it out. > My annual tune-up will occur soon, and I'll see how the updated procedures > work for me. The procedures as they are have been working fine for me for > several years and it will be interesting to see how the change makes a > difference. > > The re-review of the various sources (workshop manual, SU manual, Chilton's > and Glenn's repair manuals) reminded me again how confusing they all are in > using different nomenclature for the same part, different idle speeds, > referring to other sections that don't apply, etc. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > > From: warthodson at aol.com [mailto:warthodson at aol.com] > Sent: Saturday, April 07, 2012 8:08 PM > To: sbyers at ec.rr.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] HD8 adjustment > > Steve, > I have a copy of your excellent instructions & follow the procedure with one > significant exception. Your instructions state that the slow run valves > (what I called the idle screws) are used to set the Idle at 500 RPM, then > (after the mixture & balance are set) the fast idle screw is used to raise > the idle to 1000 RPM. > The exception is, that it is my understanding that, the idle should be set > entirely with the slow run valve & the fast idle screws are set so that they > are not in contact with what you call the throttle shaft stop lever. The > fast idle screw should only contact the throttle shaft stop lever when the > choke is pulled out. The choke actually performs two functions in sequence, > (1) is to raise the idle speed & ( ..... From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk Sun Apr 8 13:25:47 2012 From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 20:25:47 +0100 (BST) Subject: [Healeys] Tuning SU carburetters Message-ID: <1333913147.11031.YahooMailNeo@web171003.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Following the thread on tuning HD8s I realise that everyone has their own little differences in how they tune SUs. However, I have had a little book called "Tuning SU carburetters" since 1968 when it was first published by one of the then great UK car magazines "Cars and Car Conversions." I have followed the instructions over many years of Minis, Metros, Rovers, Triumphs and more recently the Healey and found it to give good results. I was about to scan my copy and offer it around, but thought I would check the web first. Someone beat me to it at the following link http://www.bmcno.org/manuals/Tuning%20SU%20Carburetters.pdf It has a full set of needle charts and lists all the british car applications for the fifties and sixties up to 1967, as well as the strip down and tuning instructions. If this publication is already known to everyone I apologise. Rgds Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Scotland Reply to: mike.brooks at alumni.warwick.ac.uk From rchaskell at earthlink.net Sun Apr 8 14:13:36 2012 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 16:13:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: HD8 adjustment In-Reply-To: <8CEE3A290D9611E-108C-CA75@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEE2D412E5781C-C74-7D02@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> <8CEE339A2686A50-39C-AFB7@webmail-m013.sysops.aol.com> <8CEE3A290D9611E-108C-CA75@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F81F170.6030604@earthlink.net> Geary, The screws have a slot on the threaded end. The two 'ears' are spread a bit to lock the screw in place. You should be able to bring the ears back together and loosen the screws to adjust the throttle plate. If you've got a couple of weeks, you might order some extra screws in case one of the ears starts to break off. Cheers, Bob Haskell AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php On 04/08/2012 09:28 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Alan, > Thanks for the very good analysis of the problem. I agree the #1 is the most > likely suspect. Next time I am involved in a fresh BJ8 startup I will try to > inspect the throttle plate alignment. That should be in about two weeks. As I > recall, aren't the two screws that hold the throttle plate on the shaft > usually deformed (I think the term is "staked") to keep the screws from coming > loose? That would make adjusting the throttle plates very difficult. I guess > the solution is to inspect the carbs when they come back from the rebuilder, > not after they are installed. > Gary Hodson From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 8 14:14:32 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 16:14:32 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tuning SU carburetters In-Reply-To: <1333913147.11031.YahooMailNeo@web171003.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1333913147.11031.YahooMailNeo@web171003.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <030001cd15c4$36449510$a2cdbf30$@verizon.net> The original SU carb manual is on my site on the Bulletins page as well as a lot of information on the Technical page, Fuel System section. One or more of these has to be correct. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mike brooks Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2012 3:26 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Tuning SU carburetters Following the thread on tuning HD8s I realise that everyone has their own little differences in how they tune SUs. However, I have had a little book called "Tuning SU carburetters" since 1968 when it was first published by one of the then great UK car magazines "Cars and Car Conversions." I have followed the instructions over many years of Minis, Metros, Rovers, Triumphs and more recently the Healey and found it to give good results. I was about to scan my copy and offer it around, but thought I would check the web first. Someone beat me to it at the following link http://www.bmcno.org/manuals/Tuning%20SU%20Carburetters.pdf It has a full set of needle charts and lists all the british car applications for the fifties and sixties up to 1967, as well as the strip down and tuning instructions. If this publication is already known to everyone I apologise. Rgds Mike Brooks '56 BN2 Scotland Reply to: From Healey100M at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 14:48:18 2012 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 16:48:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels Message-ID: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets made by Lynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure of correctness or fit. Any info would help. Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M White/Black '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (Sold) '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun Apr 8 15:07:05 2012 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 14:07:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tuning SU carburetters In-Reply-To: <1333913147.11031.YahooMailNeo@web171003.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <1333913147.11031.YahooMailNeo@web171003.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2967CBB4459741D39A5295B1ED5F5471@LeonardPCPC> Mike, et al: Additional information for you. The book shown on your link is the Second Impression July 1970. There is a later edition, 2nd Edition June 1972, with additional information. There is a section on Variations on Basic Setting Up that discusses carburetters (sic) (I know. British spelling) other than the HS described in detail in the book. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: "mike brooks" To: "Healeys" Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2012 12:25 PM Subject: [Healeys] Tuning SU carburetters I was about to scan my > copy and offer it around, but thought I would check the web first. Someone > beat me to it at the following link > http://www.bmcno.org/manuals/Tuning%20SU%20Carburetters.pdf From 57healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 16:42:18 2012 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 17:42:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> References: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> Message-ID: I was very happy with the fit on the set for my BN4. Sent from my iPad On Apr 8, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets made by > Lynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? > > I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure of > correctness or fit. > > Any info would help. > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M White/Black > '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW > '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (Sold) > '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/57healey at gmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Sun Apr 8 16:47:53 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 16:47:53 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Healeys] Sometimes it works... Message-ID: <20120408224753.A66F52E08E@bradakis.com> and sometimes it doesn't. It is a beautiful Easter here in Salt Lake City, wonderful spring weather. I had big plans to get lots done in the yard and in the garage this weekend. But no, I'm sitting here at the keyboard, have been inside all weekend with a cold. So my weekend plans didn't work out. But one plan has worked out, and for over 20 years. Yep, in April of 1991 Team.Net became a registered domain, and the lists and FTP service and web pages moved from various machines at the U of U where I worked at the time to a dedicated machine. One aspect of that is that keeping it running takes money out of my pocket. Not that much, though I keep thinking on checking just what size bite of my power bill the Team.Net hardware does take. Speaking of hardware, you are no doubt aware that Team.Net is running on a nice new, well, new to me, server that was purchased with user contributions last spring. And no doubt you've noticed the transition has had some issues, like with the archives and the forums. I am working on smoothing out the remaining wrinkles to keep it all flowing smoothly. What you can do to keep it running smoothly is make a contribution to the cause. Information regarding how to do so can be found at http://www.team.net/donate.html Some of you have donated recently, especially during the 'Find Mark a job' thread on the Healey list. In case you are wondering I no longer am a parts delivery guy but wrenching on cars again at Bailey's Service here in Utah. Spending $500 - $600 or so a month on gas and oil is something I won't miss about the old job! If you feel like Team.Net offers you something worth supporting, I would appreciate a contribution. If you'd rather not, don't worry about it. Thanks, mjb. From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Apr 8 17:56:53 2012 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 19:56:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> References: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CEE3FA67C7E6A0-2794-94EA@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> Randy Fit should not be a problem but Classic Collectables is not in business any longer. Just met with Lynn last month and no residual stock remains for sale. Aloha Perry From: Randy Hicks Sent: Sun, Apr 8, 2012 5:11 pm Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets made by ynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure of orrectness or fit. Any info would help. Randy Randy Hicks From csooch1 at aol.com Sun Apr 8 18:15:34 2012 From: csooch1 at aol.com (Chris Masucci) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 19:15:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: References: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> Message-ID: <157429DC-2B63-459B-8023-98568551256F@aol.com> Best sheet metal Healey parts I've seen and used. NFI. Cheers, Chris BJ8...priming fenders and doors tomorrow! Sent from my iPhone On Apr 8, 2012, at 5:42 PM, Patton Dickson <57healey at gmail.com> wrote: > I was very happy with the fit on the set for my BN4. > > Sent from my iPad > > On Apr 8, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Randy Hicks wrote: > >> Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets made by >> Lynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? >> >> I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure of >> correctness or fit. >> >> Any info would help. >> >> Randy >> >> Randy Hicks >> www.austinhealey100m.com >> '56 100 M White/Black >> '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW >> '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (Sold) >> '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop >> '65 BJ8 >> '53 MGTD >> Healey100M at gmail.com >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/57healey at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/csooch1 at aol.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 18:25:24 2012 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 20:25:24 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: <8CEE3FA67C7E6A0-2794-94EA@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> References: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> <8CEE3FA67C7E6A0-2794-94EA@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <58C7DE3A-FAE6-442C-88D3-D34AB6B6B895@gmail.com> Sorry, I have a new/UNused set.... Certainly well reviewed. Thanks for all the info. Randy On Apr 8, 2012, at 7:56 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > Randy > Fit should not be a problem but Classic Collectables is not in business any longer. Just met with Lynn last month and no residual stock remains for sale. > Aloha > Perry > > > From: Randy Hicks > Sent: Sun, Apr 8, 2012 5:11 pm > Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets made by > Lynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? > > I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure of > correctness or fit. > > Any info would help. > > Randy > > Randy Hicks From dwflagg at juno.com Sun Apr 8 18:53:29 2012 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 20:53:29 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels Message-ID: <20120408.175418.1665.163514@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> Perry, Maybe you can ask Lynn why he is no longer in business. It is always sad to see a business with such a fantasic product go under. I have used his panels and they are, as attested to, great!! Doug > Sorry, I have a new/UNused set.... > > Certainly well reviewed. Thanks for all the info. > > Randy > > > On Apr 8, 2012, at 7:56 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > > > Randy > > Fit should not be a problem but Classic Collectables is not in > business any > longer. Just met with Lynn last month and no residual stock remains > for sale. > > Aloha > > Perry > > > > > > From: Randy Hicks > > Sent: Sun, Apr 8, 2012 5:11 pm > > Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets > made by > > Lynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? > > > > I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure > of > > correctness or fit. > > > > Any info would help. > > > > Randy > > > > Randy Hicks > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f82334cc869122d7d8st05duc From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Apr 8 19:04:03 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 21:04:03 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: <8CEE3FA67C7E6A0-2794-94EA@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> References: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com> <8CEE3FA67C7E6A0-2794-94EA@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Years ago I purchased a custom Healey floor jack saddle from Lynn. It was made of several pieces of steel welded into a U-shaped channel that fit perfectly under either the front or rear frame cross member. The saddle was nicely powder coated in safety yellow, its inner contact surface was coated with rubber and the pin fit my floor jack perfectly. A friend of mine makes a similar item--not as elegant as Lynn's--but it will eliminate denting the cross member which is easy to do with a normal saddle unless you spread the weight carefully. I think he is selling them for about $70.00 plus shipping Call Jon Edward: 301-862-3583 and leave a message. No financial interest, etc. Best--Michael Oritt ---------------------------- On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 7:56 PM, wrote: > Randy > Fit should not be a problem but Classic Collectables is not in business > any longer. Just met with Lynn last month and no residual stock remains for > sale. > Aloha > Perry From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Apr 8 19:26:17 2012 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 01:26:17 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: <20120408.175418.1665.163514@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> References: <20120408.175418.1665.163514@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: Lyn once told me that the person who fabricated most of the panels for him could no longer work due to health issues. I agree with you that his parts were great, the fit was good, good quality at a reasonable price and above all Lyn was a great guy to deal with. Jean Caron Winnipeg > To: Healey100M at gmail.com > Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 20:53:29 -0400 > From: dwflagg at juno.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels > > Perry, > > Maybe you can ask Lynn why he is no longer in business. It is always sad > to see a business with such a fantasic product go under. I have used his > panels and they are, as attested to, great!! > > Doug > > > Sorry, I have a new/UNused set.... > > > > Certainly well reviewed. Thanks for all the info. > > > > Randy > > > > > > On Apr 8, 2012, at 7:56 PM, healeyguy at aol.com wrote: > > > > > Randy > > > Fit should not be a problem but Classic Collectables is not in > > business any > > longer. Just met with Lynn last month and no residual stock remains > > for sale. > > > Aloha > > > Perry > > > > > > > > > From: Randy Hicks > > > Sent: Sun, Apr 8, 2012 5:11 pm > > > Is anyone familiar with Healey 100 Inner sills / rocker panel sets > > made by > > > Lynh Cline, Classic Collectables, Hudson, Ohio? > > > > > > I have a new/used set and they appear to be well made but not sure > > of > > > correctness or fit. > > > > > > Any info would help. > > > > > > Randy > > > > > > Randy Hicks > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dwflagg at juno.com > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________ > 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 > The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f82334cc869122d7d8st05duc > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/vintage_roadster_restoration at ho tmail.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Apr 8 19:57:56 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 19:57:56 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker panels In-Reply-To: References: <600E630E-73E6-4EAF-B220-F8BC45EA8DF9@gmail.com><8CEE3FA67C7E6A0-2794-94EA@webmail-d128.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Does he have one for the front cross member of an XK-E? dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2012 7:04 PM To: healeyguy at aol.com Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels Years ago I purchased a custom Healey floor jack saddle from Lynn. It was made of several pieces of steel welded into a U-shaped channel that fit perfectly under either the front or rear frame cross member. The saddle was nicely powder coated in safety yellow, its inner contact surface was coated with rubber and the pin fit my floor jack perfectly. A friend of mine makes a similar item--not as elegant as Lynn's--but it will eliminate denting the cross member which is easy to do with a normal saddle unless you spread the weight carefully. I think he is selling them for about $70.00 plus shipping Call Jon Edward: 301-862-3583 and leave a message. No financial interest, etc. Best--Michael Oritt ---------------------------- On Sun, Apr 8, 2012 at 7:56 PM, wrote: > Randy > Fit should not be a problem but Classic Collectables is not in business > any longer. Just met with Lynn last month and no residual stock remains for > sale. > Aloha > Perry Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Apr 8 20:29:32 2012 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E. A. Driver) Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 20:29:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: References: <20120408.175418.1665.163514@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4F82498C.3020104@sasktel.net> /local/mailman/lynxXXXX1A1zKE: Permission denied From edriver at sasktel.net Sun Apr 8 20:51:30 2012 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E. A. Driver) Date: Sun, 08 Apr 2012 20:51:30 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels In-Reply-To: References: <20120408.175418.1665.163514@mailpop08.dca.untd.com> Message-ID: <4F824EB2.5070904@sasktel.net> For those interested Jean has a modest number of Lynn's pieces for sale on my behalf, some of these include inner sills, outer sills, complete rear cross member with rear bumper supports and others - no humble on my part ;-) Ed Saskatoon Jean Caron wrote: > Lyn once told me that the person who fabricated most of the panels for him > could no longer work due to health issues. I agree with you that his parts > were great, the fit was good, good quality at a reasonable price and above all > Lyn was a great guy to deal with. > > Jean Caron > Winnipeg > > > >> To: Healey100M at gmail.com >> Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2012 20:53:29 -0400 >> From: dwflagg at juno.com >> CC: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 inner sills / rocker pannels >> >> Perry, >> >> Maybe you can ask Lynn why he is no longer in business. It is always sad >> to see a business with such a fantasic product go under. I have used his >> panels and they are, as attested to, great!! >> >> Doug From varley at cosmos.net.au Mon Apr 9 02:05:55 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2012 18:05:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update Message-ID: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my website. While the panels are away, I'm busily working out parts I need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming in very handy................ I'll try to keep the pages up to date as it progresses. http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html Cheers Larry Varley http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Apr 9 06:12:03 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 13:12:03 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Prescott Hillclimb Photos Message-ID: All I attended the season opener at Prescot on saturday. It was also the first round of the 2012 AHC Sprint and Hillclimb calendar. Photos of the Healeys, plus Bugattis and others can be seen here http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/?albumview=slideshow There is a big black Bugatti with amazing alloy wheels, anyone know what Type this is? Derek www.healeysix.net From ed at wadsworth-eng.com Mon Apr 9 06:40:44 2012 From: ed at wadsworth-eng.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 12:40:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] lower radiator hose Message-ID: I seem to recall someone mentioning that someone offered a lower radiator hose with a proper fit - not needing to be stretched like the one from Moss. Anyone know of this source? Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Bacik, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 ed at wadsworth-eng.com (239) 454-5511 (239) 454-4501 fax From neilandcustom at gmail.com Mon Apr 9 07:47:11 2012 From: neilandcustom at gmail.com (Neil Anderson) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 08:47:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Nash Healey project on BaT and ebay Message-ID: <001501cd1657$459c2800$d0d47800$@com> There is a Pinin Farina bodied Nash Healey listed this morning. Bidding is at 13,700 with No Reserve and about 2 days left. BaT says it looks rough, but to me It doesn't look too bad as far as the chassis/body is concerned. Needs complete restoration. Listing says it has most of the hard to find Nash Healey bits, missing others. Car is in St. Louis. NFI http://bringatrailer.com/2012/04/08/bugeye-money-1952-nash-healey-project/#m ore- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem &item=370602106164+&viewitem= Neil Anderson BT7, Sprite project Illinois From frogeye at porterscustom.com Mon Apr 9 07:57:40 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 07:57:40 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] lower radiator hose In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <781EAD5949794CD698224F0C095B914C@oscar> Ed, lubricate the inside circumference with AmourAll or a silicon lube... dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 6:41 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] lower radiator hose I seem to recall someone mentioning that someone offered a lower radiator hose with a proper fit - not needing to be stretched like the one from Moss. Anyone know of this source? Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Bacik, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 ed at wadsworth-eng.com (239) 454-5511 ( From peter.svilans at rogers.com Mon Apr 9 08:06:50 2012 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 10:06:50 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Prescott Hillclimb Photos Message-ID: Derek, Wonderful pictures, thanks. The big Bugatti is a Type 50. The engine was a five liter (4972) straight eight, hemi head, supercharged, twin overhead cam producing 200 bhp at 4,000 rpm. The ohc layout was copied from the two American Miller racing cars bought by Bugatti to study. The alloy wheels were designed for the type 50, but were available later as an option on the Type 46. I don't keep up with the latest, but in the 1990's this car was owned by Miles Coverdale of Long Island, New York. Its a genuine LeMans survivor. Best regards Peter From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 9 09:56:01 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 08:56:01 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Prescott Hillclimb Photos In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: great photos. quite a collection of LBC and Bugatti cars On Mon, Apr 9, 2012 at 5:12 AM, Derek Job wrote: > All > > I attended the season opener at Prescot on saturday. It was also the first > round of the 2012 AHC Sprint and Hillclimb calendar. > > Photos of the Healeys, plus Bugattis and others can be seen here > > http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/?albumview=slideshow > > There is a big black Bugatti with amazing alloy wheels, anyone know what > Type this is? > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bgdrab at eastlink.ca Mon Apr 9 17:50:49 2012 From: bgdrab at eastlink.ca (Brian Drab) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2012 16:50:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] foam seat cushions Message-ID: <000001cd16ab$97c1c690$c74553b0$@eastlink.ca> I have a set of leather seat covers for my late model BJ8 and I think the time is coming to put them on. The foam cushions and backrests, being 45 years old would, I think, need replacing. My question is where is a good place to pick up a set of proper fitting foam at a reasonable price. I live in the Pacific Northwest. Brian Drab From alexmm at roadrunner.com Mon Apr 9 18:42:07 2012 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 20:42:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] lower radiator hose References: <781EAD5949794CD698224F0C095B914C@oscar> Message-ID: <7D40C7BDF9E84789B9AEFDE9B45D5EA9@atc0f226cd3237> A bit of anti-freeze works well, too. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Porter" To: "'Ed O'Neal'" ; "'Austin Healey'" Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] lower radiator hose > Ed, lubricate the inside circumference with AmourAll or a silicon lube... > dave > frogeye at porterscustom.com > > Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE > Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 > 505-352-1378 > 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 > Porter Custom Bicycles > > cars: > www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html > gallery: > http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff > > GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Ed O'Neal > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 6:41 AM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] lower radiator hose > > I seem to recall someone mentioning that someone offered a lower radiator > hose > with a proper fit - not needing to be stretched like the one from Moss. > Anyone know of this source? > > > Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. > Wadsworth O'Neal Bacik, Inc. > 6418 Commerce Park Drive > Fort Myers, Florida 33966 > ed at wadsworth-eng.com > (239) 454-5511 > ( > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com From healeymk3 at hotmail.com Mon Apr 9 18:56:41 2012 From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 20:56:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] foam seat cushions In-Reply-To: <000001cd16ab$97c1c690$c74553b0$@eastlink.ca> References: <000001cd16ab$97c1c690$c74553b0$@eastlink.ca> Message-ID: I just re-built mine using foam backs and bottoms from Bob at Autofarm. They were a lot softer material than the ones I had used in my BT7 and do not require holes drilled in the bottoms. Fit was good and price was competitive. Laurie Wilford BN1, BT7, BJ8 > From: bgdrab at eastlink.ca > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 16:50:49 -0700 > Subject: [Healeys] foam seat cushions > > I have a set of leather seat covers for my late model BJ8 and I think the > time is coming to put them on. The foam cushions and backrests, being 45 > years old would, I think, need replacing. My question is where is a good > place to pick up a set of proper fitting foam at a reasonable price. I live > in the Pacific Northwest. > > Brian Drab From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Mon Apr 9 19:15:59 2012 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Mon, 9 Apr 2012 20:15:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Phil Gardner and Peter Sturtevant Message-ID: I recently read an article aboutth Austin Healey this 2 guys restored. I would lie to contact them. Anyone knows their info. http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2011/01/01/hmn_feature8.html Thanks Jose From britishcars at shaw.ca Mon Apr 9 21:52:22 2012 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (British Cars) Date: Mon, 09 Apr 2012 20:52:22 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] foam seat cushions In-Reply-To: <000001cd16ab$97c1c690$c74553b0$@eastlink.ca> Message-ID: Heritage is located in Vancouver, BC. However, I did have to drill them out to make them soft. On 12-04-09 4:50 PM, "Brian Drab" wrote: >I have a set of leather seat covers for my late model BJ8 and I think the >time is coming to put them on. The foam cushions and backrests, being 45 >years old would, I think, need replacing. My question is where is a good >place to pick up a set of proper fitting foam at a reasonable price. I >live >in the Pacific Northwest. > >Brian Drab >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishcars at shaw.ca From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Tue Apr 10 08:24:30 2012 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 09:24:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Phil Gardner and Peter Sturtevant In-Reply-To: <005a01cd1725$469f82a0$d3de87e0$@com> References: <005a01cd1725$469f82a0$d3de87e0$@com> Message-ID: <69EF4F1F-E342-4976-8CEC-47B516026234@yahoo.com> Found, alive and well ! Thanks, Jse Sent from my iPad On 10/04/2012, at 9:21 a.m., "Neil Anderson" wrote: > Hello Jose' > Try this for Peter. Healeybn4 at aol.com Phil lives in England. > > Neil Anderson > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Jose Vicente Vargas > Sent: Monday, April 09, 2012 8:16 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Looking for Phil Gardner and Peter Sturtevant > > I recently read an article aboutth Austin Healey this 2 guys restored. I > would lie to contact them. Anyone knows their info. > > http://www.hemmings.com/hsx/stories/2011/01/01/hmn_feature8.html > > Thanks > > Jose > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/neilandcustom at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 10 09:45:48 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 01:45:48 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels. Early BN1 Message-ID: <64DA9E89-9BF5-4488-A761-516BD1001608@gmail.com> Someone was looking for early BN1 wheel centres? Anyway. They are flatter than the later 48 spoke hubs, on the inside of the hub. I've got a whole early wheel. Not great at the rim end,, but its the early flat hub style. But I'm sure someone wanted some of it? BTW. I've also got 5 other 48 spoke wheels. Selling off some stuff stored at my 87 year old Mums, post my divorce. Pics for Curt and Rich. Yeah. I know.. Another email. Let me know if you want a pic Best Chris From richchrysler at quickclic.net Tue Apr 10 11:54:25 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 13:54:25 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 48 spoke wheels. Early BN1 In-Reply-To: <64DA9E89-9BF5-4488-A761-516BD1001608@gmail.com> References: <64DA9E89-9BF5-4488-A761-516BD1001608@gmail.com> Message-ID: <006201cd1742$f8283f40$e878bdc0$@net> Gentlemen, For what it's worth I have 2 full sets of these early wheels actually in pretty good condition, never rusty. A local owner sent a set of 5 very good ones (off the famous Gunmetal grey Hundred) to Dayton Wheel about 4 years ago and they accepted the job of totally rebuilding them. He eventually go them back in excellent rebuilt condition but unfortunately with Dayton's usual "too dark" a silver grey colour. In addition they notified him they would not accept any more for rebuilding. Too bad, in the light of the fact that the first 5000 cars all came with those wheels. They didn't go away from them until about the time they went to the unified matching numbers in mid August of '54. Rich -----Original Message----- From: Chris Dimmock [mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com] Sent: 2012-04-10 11:46 To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: Curt/Nancy Arndt; Rich Chrysler Subject: 48 spoke wheels. Early BN1 Someone was looking for early BN1 wheel centres? Anyway. They are flatter than the later 48 spoke hubs, on the inside of the hub. I've got a whole early wheel. Not great at the rim end,, but its the early flat hub style. But I'm sure someone wanted some of it? BTW. I've also got 5 other 48 spoke wheels. Selling off some stuff stored at my 87 year old Mums, post my divorce. Pics for Curt and Rich. Yeah. I know.. Another email. Let me know if you want a pic Best Chris Sent from my iPhone= From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Tue Apr 10 12:26:07 2012 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 20:26:07 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive Message-ID: For anyone that might be interested I have just posted an instructional video on overdrives. You can check it out on the following page: http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/ Happy Healeying from Sweden, Magnus Karlsson From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Tue Apr 10 12:42:53 2012 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 11:42:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow, that's a great video! Very well done. Jody On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 11:26 AM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > For anyone that might be interested I have just posted an instructional video > on overdrives. > You can check it out on the following page: > http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/ > > > Happy Healeying from Sweden, > Magnus Karlsson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 1970 MG MGB 1980 Triumph TR7 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Apr 10 13:56:53 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 15:56:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <040901cd1754$144c5150$3ce4f3f0$@verizon.net> Just put a link to this great set of videos on the Technical page, OD section of my site. Check the Update History page for a lot more new items. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Magnus Karlsson Sent: Tuesday, April 10, 2012 2:26 PM To: Healey Lista Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive For anyone that might be interested I have just posted an instructional video on overdrives. You can check it out on the following page: http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/ Happy Healeying from Sweden, Magnus Karlsson $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 10 22:13:09 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 21:13:09 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. Anyone have a story they are willing to share? John '62 BT7 From 57healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 10 22:33:05 2012 From: 57healey at gmail.com (Patton Dickson) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 04:33:05 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T -----Original Message----- From: john spaur Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.netDate: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 21:13:09 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. Anyone have a story they are willing to share? John '62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/57healey at gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Apr 10 22:43:47 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 21:43:47 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F850C03.7010501@comcast.net> I hit 100mph+--if my speedometer is to be believed--in my BJ8 with a full load (passenger, luggage, etc.) on a deserted stretch of Nevada highway (aren't they all deserted?). Nothing else to do out there. Bob On 4/10/2012 9:13 PM, john spaur wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of > freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was > riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > John > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From mark at bradakis.com Tue Apr 10 23:18:11 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 23:18:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <4F850C03.7010501@comcast.net> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4F850C03.7010501@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F851413.2070907@bradakis.com> Bob Spidell wrote: > I hit 100mph+--if my speedometer is to be believed--in my BJ8 with a > full load (passenger, luggage, etc.) on a deserted stretch of Nevada > highway (aren't they all deserted?). > > Nothing else to do out there. > Back in 1984 I worked as a summer intern at the IBM San Jose research labs. I drove out there in my TR6, drove back early fall. No digital cameras or phones back then, and I was out of film or I would have taken a picture of this old sign. It was on a piece of road just south of US 50. The sign basically said something like the next stretch of road is flat and straight. There is a marker at 0 miles, a marker at 5 miles and a marker at 10 miles - if you do something stupid it isn't our fault. I had a trunk full of California wine. I didn't want to spill any, so I kept it under 100. mjb. From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Apr 10 23:27:50 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:27:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 5700rpm 4th gear+ overdrive. Flat out on a slight incline on Mulholand Hwy in the Santa Monica Mt. Range just past the Rock Store. First date with my wife 34 years ago last month. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 10, 2012 9:13 PM, "john spaur" wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an > Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my > friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to > get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end > felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > John > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 10 23:30:48 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:30:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "I Erbs" Date: Apr 10, 2012 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club To: "john spaur" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" 5700rpm 4th gear+ overdrive. Flat out on a slight incline on Mulholand Hwy in the Santa Monica Mt. Range just past the Rock Store. First date with my wife 34 years ago last month. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 10, 2012 9:13 PM, "john spaur" wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an > Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my > friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to > get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end > felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > John > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Tue Apr 10 23:31:17 2012 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 22:31:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 100+ on the German autobahn. For short distances. I had a built in governor. When at that speed, the thought would occur - what would happen if a tire blew right now? My foot would automatically come off the accelerator. During that trip, I had a passenger and a load of camping gear. He was dozing in the passenger seat. We were cruising along fat, dumb, and happy, when I glanced at the speedometer. I nudged him awake and asked him how fast he thought were going. He said about 75-80. I told him to look at the speedo. We were cruising comfortably at 90 MPH.. I have found that if I do not look at the speedo and just drive at what becomes a comfortable speed for me and the Healey, I will be going 85 MPH. Less fighting the steering wheel, engine is running smooth and strong, I am more relaxed than at 55 or 65, the road seems to smooth out, and the driving experience is total pleasure. I first drove a friends Healey on the track at LeMans the day before the race.Too long a story to relate here. I don't know how fast I was driving down the Mulsanne Straight but it had to do with dicing with a Birdcage Maserati. OK. So the Maserati passed us like we were standing still. That experience and a couple of rallies told me that I had to have a Healey. It took 10 years for the dream to come true but I'm still lovin' it. Speaking of LeMans, There is a two page picture spread of the 1960 start in the 1961 program. On the left page, I can be seen taking pictures as I knelt on the overhang above the pits. On the right page can be seen Healey UJB143 in the pack. (The Other) Len Vacaville, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 From eyera3 at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 00:00:10 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Apr 2012 23:00:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: North of the rock store there is a 1.5 mile straight away into a great right hander, then a seedlings left. I think south of Encinol canyon. It's been many years... Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 10, 2012 10:56 PM, "F Ronald Rader" wrote: > WOW that is impressive. > from the rock store east (south?) to the first turn in the road is not > all that far!! > the distance to the first good turn is .8 miles!!! > ron rader > Playa del Rey > > On Tue, Apr 10, 2012 at 10:27 PM, I Erbs wrote: > > > > 5700rpm 4th gear+ overdrive. Flat out on a slight incline on Mulholand > Hwy > > in the Santa Monica Mt. Range just past the Rock Store. First date with > my > > wife 34 years ago last month. > > > > Ira Erbs > > IT Consultant > > Portland, OR > > On Apr 10, 2012 9:13 PM, "john spaur" wrote: > > > > > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > > > > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an > > > Austin-Healey. > > > > > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of > > > my > > > friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while > to > > > get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front > > > end > > > felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > > > > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > > > > > John > > > '62 BT7 > > > ______________________________**_________________ > > > Support Team.Net > > > http://www.team.net/donate.**html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > > > > > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com> > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/f.ronald.rader at gmail.com From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Wed Apr 11 00:01:21 2012 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 08:01:21 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive Message-ID: <82399948-8F57-47D9-9B55-9ACA7D3C7E88@bornet.net> For anyone that might be interested I have just posted an instructional video on overdrives. You can check it out on the following page: http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/ Happy Healeying from Sweden, Magnus Karlsson From ATIGHTPROD at aol.com Wed Apr 11 00:06:20 2012 From: ATIGHTPROD at aol.com (ATIGHTPROD at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 02:06:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Message-ID: 1983, I had a 1961 3000 and was driving on highway 50 just east of Sacramento. I was on a date and the car was just approaching 100,000 miles. I told my date I wanted to pass the 100,000 mile mark at 100 mph. She said if you want to do that, I want out of the car. I stopped on the side of the freeway, let her out and proceeded back on the freeway and took the car up past 100 mph and did indeed cross over the 100,000 mile mark somewhere over 100 mph. I then circled back on the freeway, went past where I left her off, turned around on the next overpass, came back, picked her up and we continued on the date. I haven't gotten past 100 in my BN1 yet, but now that it has been brought up, I think I'll giver her a try and report back to the group soon. Good question John. Steven Kingsbury BN1 #598 In a message dated 4/10/2012 9:20:51 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net writes: We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. Anyone have a story they are willing to share? John '62 BT7 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/atightprod at aol.com From ktee20 at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 01:33:02 2012 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:33:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 100 mph phut ! ! ! Driving in OZ Adelaide to Darwin in a Holden Rodeo on the Stuart hwy (aka The Gun Barrel hwy with 280 km straight sections) no speed restrictions at that time I was curious to see how fast a 3.2 lt V6 TRUCK could go , At 160kph (100mph) it was still pulling ..................... I find that ridiculous in a work vehicle The tuning & ingenuity back in the 60's to pull over 100mph yielded serious adrenalin , any rice burner can do that now To days kids do not know what they missed Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ BN2 100M On 11 April 2012 14:13, john spaur wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an > Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my > friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to > get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end > felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > John > '62 BT7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/ktee20 at gmail.**com From varley at cosmos.net.au Wed Apr 11 01:40:44 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:40:44 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive In-Reply-To: <82399948-8F57-47D9-9B55-9ACA7D3C7E88@bornet.net> References: <82399948-8F57-47D9-9B55-9ACA7D3C7E88@bornet.net> Message-ID: <4F85357C.2050702@cosmos.net.au> Excellent work Magnus! On 11/04/2012 4:01 PM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > For anyone that might be interested I have just posted an instructional video > on overdrives. > You can check it out on the following page: > http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/ > > > Happy Healeying from Sweden, > Magnus Karlsson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au From varley at cosmos.net.au Wed Apr 11 01:41:02 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:41:02 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Video on overdrive In-Reply-To: <82399948-8F57-47D9-9B55-9ACA7D3C7E88@bornet.net> References: <82399948-8F57-47D9-9B55-9ACA7D3C7E88@bornet.net> Message-ID: <4F85358E.5090300@cosmos.net.au> Excellent work Magnus! Regards Larry Varley On 11/04/2012 4:01 PM, Magnus Karlsson wrote: > For anyone that might be interested I have just posted an instructional video > on overdrives. > You can check it out on the following page: > http://www.concourshealeys.com/videos/ > > > Happy Healeying from Sweden, > Magnus Karlsson > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au From varley at cosmos.net.au Wed Apr 11 01:56:39 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:56:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F853937.7000201@cosmos.net.au> I can confirm that my ( original 10,000 mile engine ) 100 won't do 100 MPH with the windscreen up. About 95 is the best it will do. However there was a time back in 1973 in my first 100 with 2 passenger ( the cute female on was sitting in the middle ) that in convoy on the way to Morwell hill climb near Melbourne, that 2 Healey 100's were travelling at over 100 MPH. Unfortunately in my case there was a very load bang from the engine as the top came off a piston, and a cloud of smoke filled the Princes highway. Documentary evidence provide below as the young lady points to the cause of the problem. I lied on my website about the speed to protect the guilty :) http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/ggl15.jpg Cheers Larry Varley On 11/04/2012 2:13 PM, john spaur wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an > Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of > my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a > while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. > The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > John > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 03:27:10 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 19:27:10 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9FB848A9-F44E-4ABC-91BF-946B9D30EEF6@gmail.com> Hey John, At Eastern Creek raceway, with a 3.9:1 diff, and 195x60x15 tyres, I run out of revs about 2/3rds of the way down the front straight. I have to lift off at just over 6,000 rpm in overdrive top, and feather it I haven't looked down at the speedo, (tacho is on top of the dash) but by my calculations that's pretty close to 150 mph Then you turn left, still at full throttle..... Denis Welch pulled around 8,500 rpm in overdrive top on Conrod straight at Bathurst, with a 4.8 diff & FIA tyres, passing Peter Hopwood, in the 1998 Healey races. He hit the speed trap at the Chase at just over 180mph. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 11/04/2012, at 2:13 PM, john spaur wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Wed Apr 11 03:57:07 2012 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 04:57:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: 170 kph = 106 mph measured with GPS In a BN2 with a LeMans kit New shocks, disc brakes, new wire wheels , no fear at all. Done it several times. Jose Bogota,Colombia Sent from my iPad On 10/04/2012, at 11:13 p.m., john spaur wrote: > We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. > > I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. > > Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. > > Anyone have a story they are willing to share? > > John > '62 BT7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Wed Apr 11 05:04:19 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:04:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01cd17d2$da7c6990$8f753cb0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> I seem to recall comparing GPS speed to rpm to speed shown on my, somewhat useless, speedo. We did over a 100. Going up in units of 5mph on the GPS so let's say 105. Car felt fine; has a 3:54 diff & a 28%OD plus bigger carbs/big exhaust, better cam etc. Haven't got chart to hand. Didn't do it for any longer than it took to enter the figures. Police hate 100+ here. Not sure I blame them. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: 11 April 2012 05:13 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. Anyone have a story they are willing to share? John '62 BT7 $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 05:34:02 2012 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 06:34:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Message-ID: I nearly did it in an MGC. As bad as they were are can be made into great road cars with a few suspension upgrades. Left the annual MGC meet in Pensacola at 2:30AM. The ride to the freeway was easy with no traffic. When I got the the freeway, with no traffic I let it go. Unfortunately, I chickened out at 95MPH (well that *is* over 100kph). With freeway almost all the way I did the 1,660 plus miles from Pensacola to Downers Grove In about 18 hours, and that incuded the usual I65 backup near the Borman in Indiana. The Borman is the rout you use to get around the south end of Lake Michigan. All traffic going east or west to and from the northern part of the country has to use it. It has been under construction for as long as I can remember. I havent counted but my memory is that it is as least 10 lanes wide as it approaches Illinois. In honor of my advanced age I now leave for national meets at 4:30AM to try to get past that Borman block. Jack 60 BT7 69 MGC 72 MGBGT (now my road car with much modification) From gbrierton at hotmail.com Wed Apr 11 05:59:30 2012 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 07:59:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: 1968, on my honeymoon in my BJ8, one year out of the showroom. My wife and I witnessed a rollover accident on a deserted stretch of two lane in Nevada. Using the excuse that we needed to get to the next town to notify the police, I put my foot down and held it down. Just over 100 mph, there was a loud bang! Threw out the clutch and coasted to a vibrating stop. Looking under the hood, I initially saw no damage; no oil (well, no more than usual), no holes in the engine, no parts scattered about. Then I saw that one fan blade had come off and was halfway buried in the cross-member just below the radiator. If it had let go at any other point in it's rotation, the damage would probably been catastrophic, possibly including tire shredding. Unbolted the remaining half-blade and continued back to Illinois. Haven't topped 100 since. Gary Brierton -----Original Message----- From: Jack Feldman Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 7:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club I nearly did it in an MGC. As bad as they were are can be made into great road cars with a few suspension upgrades. Left the annual MGC meet in Pensacola at 2:30AM. The ride to the freeway was easy with no traffic. When I got the the freeway, with no traffic I let it go. Unfortunately, I chickened out at 95MPH (well that *is* over 100kph). With freeway almost all the way I did the 1,660 plus miles from Pensacola to Downers Grove In about 18 hours, and that incuded the usual I65 backup near the Borman in Indiana. The Borman is the rout you use to get around the south end of Lake Michigan. All traffic going east or west to and from the northern part of the country has to use it. It has been under construction for as long as I can remember. I havent counted but my memory is that it is as least 10 lanes wide as it approaches Illinois. In honor of my advanced age I now leave for national meets at 4:30AM to try to get past that Borman block. Jack 60 BT7 69 MGC 72 MGBGT (now my road car with much modification) Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton at hotmail.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Wed Apr 11 06:08:20 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 8:08:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120411080820.UFXJ4.24118.root@pamxwww02-z01> I've only had my BJ8 up to 90--on the Autobaun, but back in 69 I had my E-Type up to 135 on a deserted Texas freeway. And she still had more to do---but that speed scared me to death---very light front end. tom ---- I Erbs wrote: ============= North of the rock store there is a 1.5 mile straight away into a great right hander, then a seedlings left. I think south of Encinol canyon. It's been many years... Ira Erbs From INSIDEDIM at aol.com Wed Apr 11 07:02:40 2012 From: INSIDEDIM at aol.com (INSIDEDIM at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 09:02:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Message-ID: <3ebaa.6ce84eb2.3cb6daf0@aol.com> I had a 4 yr. old BJ7 in college, while traveling to a resort town with some friends, one of which drove a 65 300hp StingRay, we got on it on the e-way and I stayed right on his tail up to 110. Bill In a message dated 4/11/2012 7:12:27 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk writes: I seem to recall comparing GPS speed to rpm to speed shown on my, somewhat useless, speedo. We did over a 100. Going up in units of 5mph on the GPS so let's say 105. Car felt fine; has a 3:54 diff & a 28%OD plus bigger carbs/big exhaust, better cam etc. Haven't got chart to hand. Didn't do it for any longer than it took to enter the figures. Police hate 100+ here. Not sure I blame them. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john spaur Sent: 11 April 2012 05:13 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. Anyone have a story they are willing to share? John '62 BT7 $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/insidedim at aol.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 08:29:13 2012 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 10:29:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear brake linings Message-ID: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> A friend, not on list at the moment, needs to replace the linings on his early BN1 rear brakes. I believe they are the narrower size. Anyone have a source that has correct fitting linings? Randy From autofarm at cyg.net Wed Apr 11 09:14:27 2012 From: autofarm at cyg.net (Bob Yule) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 11:14:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear brake linings References: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> Message-ID: We have them in stock, with the rivets. Cheers.......Bob Check out our web site www.autofarm.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Hicks" To: "Healey List" Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 10:29 AM Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear brake linings >A friend, not on list at the moment, needs to replace the linings on his >early > BN1 rear brakes. I believe they are the narrower size. > > Anyone have a source that has correct fitting linings? > > Randy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/autofarm at cyg.net From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 09:32:23 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 08:32:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear brake linings In-Reply-To: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> References: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> Message-ID: Locate a local friction rebuilder to get them relined. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 11, 2012 7:29 AM, "Randy Hicks" wrote: > A friend, not on list at the moment, needs to replace the linings on his > early > BN1 rear brakes. I believe they are the narrower size. > > Anyone have a source that has correct fitting linings? > > Randy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 11 09:40:04 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 08:40:04 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear brake linings In-Reply-To: References: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> Message-ID: Yes we have relined shoes for the early BN1 available exchange. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . > > >> A friend, not on list at the moment, needs to replace the linings >> on his early >> BN1 rear brakes. I believe they are the narrower size. >> >> Anyone have a source that has correct fitting linings? >> >> Randy >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ >> autofarm at cyg.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 11 09:49:44 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:49:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 rear brake linings In-Reply-To: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> References: <39310161-0055-45EF-87E3-177DC4FDEE5C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F85A818.5000901@chello.nl> Make sure they are riveted and not bonded (only). Kees Oudesluijs Op 11-4-2012 16:29, Randy Hicks schreef: > A friend, not on list at the moment, needs to replace the linings on his early > BN1 rear brakes. I believe they are the narrower size. > > Anyone have a source that has correct fitting linings? > > Randy > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4927 - datum van uitgifte: 04/10/12 From lostboys65 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 11 10:40:50 2012 From: lostboys65 at yahoo.com (John Roesle) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 09:40:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Message-ID: <1334162450.51581.androidMobile@web120506.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> All, Is this the Healey version of fish stories about the BIG ONE that got away? I have a new Mustang GT that i routinely up to 100 mph or more and it's a non event. I can't wait til I get my 57 100 6 on the road and test the top end. Expect a totally different experience. John Roesle Shawnee Kansas Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 10:49:18 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 09:49:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Message-ID: On that date with my now wife: As we were travelling faster than 100 MPH, she looked at the Tach and asked " Aren't we going faster than 57 MPH?" I yelled yes! Told her about how fast we were going and she just had a huge smile on her face, It changed slightly when I had to cram on the binders and downshift to set up for the hard right hander at the end of the straight. The grin returned as I accelerated into the sweeping left hander right after the right. She love the Healey and going fast. Truth be told We drove that stretch of road 6 years ago on a visit to So Cal in my family sedan. We both wondered what they hell we were doing back in the day :) -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From randey_brophy at telus.net Wed Apr 11 10:50:28 2012 From: randey_brophy at telus.net (randey brophy) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 09:50:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Re 100 MPH Club Message-ID: <00a801cd1803$333c70e0$99b552a0$@net> On the island highway, Vancouver Island BC Canada in 1986, we'd just been passed and cut off by an overweight guy in an overweight car. Caught up to the guy in my '65 BJ8, came abreast of him then toggled the overdrive on.we were doing 106 on the speedo and climbing..had both hands on the wheel when we passed him.. Randey Brophy 1747 Trafalgar St Vancouver BC V6K3R9 C: 604 928 1866 E: randey_brophy at telus.net "You are what you do!" cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] From eandy01 at msn.com Wed Apr 11 11:41:36 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:41:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rust-Oleum/11 oz. gloss red vinyl and fabric paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Does anyone have experience with this product? Results? How do you tell if a tonneau is leather or vinyl? Thanks Ed Anderson From bertvanbrande at yahoo.com Wed Apr 11 11:45:59 2012 From: bertvanbrande at yahoo.com (Bert Van Brande) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 10:45:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1334166359.56198.YahooMailNeo@web36708.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi, The Rock Store is still there and Mullholland Highway is a popular early saturday/sunday morning drive among speed addicts. The amount of highend metal on wheels coming by is amazing. The mountain and canyon roads around there are also loved by Malibu policy who love to supplement the city's bank accounts. http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ll=34.106013,-118.791218&spn=0.020254,0.036 006&sll=34.10882,-118.787313&sspn=0.020254,0.036006&t=p&z=15 One guy has actually made a business out of taking/selling pictures on the "snake" part of the drive. http://www.rockstorephotos.com/snake.htm some british iron driving by: http://www.flickr.com/photos/capfacsurf/sets/72157629361030746/?page=2 Bert From dgay at simoncontractors.com Wed Apr 11 11:55:04 2012 From: dgay at simoncontractors.com (Dave Gay) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 11:55:04 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Re 100 MPH Club References: <00a801cd1803$333c70e0$99b552a0$@net> Message-ID: <8D42D0E03079094FB6D09BEF3CC76DA135FCB7@EMAIL-CHEYC.simons.com> I was coming out of Fort Carson (Colorado Springs, CO) in 1970 on I-25 ( long before owning the 60 BT7 which is now in pieces) in a 67 Corvette. Headed for Cheyenne. Probably around 11 o'clock at night. The Vette was modified (no one worried about keeping your car stock in those days - the object was to beat the Cudda's, Roadrunners and 4-4-2's - with headers into factory sidepipes (not original to the car but that is another story), Aluminum dual plane, Holley 650 and Mallory dual point. North of Fort Collins, CO, where the Budweiser plant is now located, the interstate is straight and flat for a couple of miles. In 1970, there was nothing out there. And I do mean NOTHING (well, maybe a few prairie dogs). The speedometer goes to 160. I pushed the Vette well past that (170-175). There was no peddle left. IT WAS SCARY. The front end was floating around like a boat. Made a promise to myself to never do that again..... Dave Gay (I still have that Corvette) -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of randey brophy Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 10:50 AM To: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Re 100 MPH Club On the island highway, Vancouver Island BC Canada in 1986, we'd just been passed and cut off by an overweight guy in an overweight car. Caught up to the guy in my '65 BJ8, came abreast of him then toggled the overdrive on.we were doing 106 on the speedo and climbing..had both hands on the wheel when we passed him.. Randey Brophy 1747 Trafalgar St Vancouver BC V6K3R9 C: 604 928 1866 E: randey_brophy at telus.net "You are what you do!" cid:2CEF16BD-C2F4-4E37-A75E-82C333CC2756 at local [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dgay at simoncontractors.com From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Apr 11 12:11:33 2012 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8 Healeys) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 14:11:33 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> Having had a rear tire blowout in my BJ8 at about 65 mph, on a flat straight 4-lane there ain't no way I want to get close to 100 mph in that car. I did do an indicated 95 mph in my '73 Midget, going downhill in Pennsylvania once. Actually, I believe I had it out of gear. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary R. Brierton Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 8:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club 1968, on my honeymoon in my BJ8, one year out of the showroom. My wife and I witnessed a rollover accident on a deserted stretch of two lane in Nevada. Using the excuse that we needed to get to the next town to notify the police, I put my foot down and held it down. Just over 100 mph, there was a loud bang! Threw out the clutch and coasted to a vibrating stop. Looking under the hood, I initially saw no damage; no oil (well, no more than usual), no holes in the engine, no parts scattered about. Then I saw that one fan blade had come off and was halfway buried in the cross-member just below the radiator. If it had let go at any other point in it's rotation, the damage would probably been catastrophic, possibly including tire shredding. Unbolted the remaining half-blade and continued back to Illinois. Haven't topped 100 since. Gary Brierton From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Wed Apr 11 12:16:55 2012 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:16:55 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Art & Models, Some Healey, some not Healey Part 1 Message-ID: <857C483E-A9DD-4DD7-9722-BFB3DA87CF71@comcast.net> Hi Gang, Once again, thanks to all who have given wonderful homes to my toys, models and prints, and pardon the intrusion. Please delete if you are not interested. Would someone kindly post this to the Small Healey list serve? Copy me please. Some Healey (mostly Bugeye) and some not Healey items: Shipping for the prints and posters would be costly, especially for those not in the USA. Normal shipping costs for the models and kits, not to bad. If you are interested, Make me an offer (nothing below the minimum prices please). Email me if you would like to see photos. Tell me which number. HealeyHundred at comcast.net. They will go to eBay in 2 weeks if they do not sell here. #1: Austin Healey 3000 Convertible Print 1963-65 Austin Healey 3000 MKII or MKIII. This is either a BJ7 or early BJ8. It is a beautiful print by William J. Sims of a Healey Blue over white (or very light blue) Healey convertible. The scene is the Polo Grounds with a Jaguar XK 150 (?) in the background along with polo players, polo gear, horses and fans. This print looks like it should be in a Ralph Lauren store or advertisement. The print measures 23.5 inches by 13.5 inches. It is a signed In the print poster. Pick up only. Minimum price $40.00 #2: Austin Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Sprite Kits Unbelievably this group is for 5 kits of the Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite MKI all by Airfix. There are three different Versions. First is the 02421 common kit in 1/32nd scale Rated as a skill level 2. There are three of these kits one is still Sealed in its original shrink wrap. Second is the same kit In a bubble wrap which includes cement and paint labeled As a Starter Set Small and it is still sealed. Third is the best, the Hi-Tech Series 17 version in 1/24th scale. Ref # 17003. This kit includes the plastic body, white metal frame and parts, and photo-etched parts. This one is still sealed in its shrink wrapped and has never been opened, but the wrap has been Torn across the top. Minimum price $90.00 #3: 3 X Austin Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Blueprint, X-ray, Advert This auction is for 3 pieces of Austin-Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Art. #1. Is a double exposure photographic print of a 1959 Bugeye Sprite in red with a roll bar. The exposure shows the Internal engine compartment. Dave Hill Restored the car and Vance Gerdau & Stef Butler did the photography. This print does not show the credits and is dry mounted on foam core board. It measures 20 1/4th X 15 7/8th inches. #2. Is a blue print reproduction (in black and white) of a full side view and a half top view of the Bugeye. Dont think this is a factory item, but it sure is nice. It is also mounted on foam core board and measures 24 X 15 = inches. #3. Is an advertisement for Loans from Mitre Ultimax England. An altered bugeye with an exaggerated smile also mounted on foam core board measuring 13 1/8th X 10 > inches. Minimum price $75.00 More to come in Part 2 From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Wed Apr 11 12:19:14 2012 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:19:14 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Art & Models, Some Healey, some not Healey Part 3 Message-ID: #8: 1954 Chevrolet Corvette 1/18th scale by MIRA. A beautiful 1954 Chevrolet Corvette in 1/18th scale. It is dark metallic blue with a white interior and convertible top. The top was removed from the car and the plastic sitting pins are broken, but cannot be seen and the top fits just fine. Hood, trunk and doors open. Steering wheel operates the front wheels. Comes with the original box which is plain cardboard. Minimum price $15.00 #9: Austin Healey Bugeye (Forgeye) Sprite MK1 A very Rare Austin-Healey Bugeye Sprite MKI kit Manufactured by Modelers in 1/24th scale. This is a Highly detailed resin bodied kit. I am assuming the Kit was manufactured in Japan the ref # is 6402-13500. The resin body is fantastic and it comes with superb Photo-etched parts. I have only seen this kit once 15 years Ago and I purchased two of them. One is for sale here. Minimum price $125.00. #10: The Jaguar SS-100 by Franklin Mint. The magnificent 1938 Jaguar SS-100 Franklin Mint Is in 1/24th scale and comes in its original packaging. This one is cream with a black interior. It is just as it should be. The engine covers open to expose the engine and the doors also open. The original Certificate of Authenticity and the die-cast engine and interior specification sheet are included. Minimum price $20.00 Dia, Dia, Dia Dat's all Folks. Richard Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club 1830 South Newport Street Denver, Colorado 80224 Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred at comcast.net From JPayne at ThorCon.net Wed Apr 11 12:27:50 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:27:50 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> References: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C123A3F2C@ex1mbx02.onthenetoffice.com> I have had my 1960 Morgan and 1961 XK 150 each over 100 (well over in the case of the latter), and my 1959 TR3 over 95. I look forward to exploring the limits of my AH3000. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of BJ8 Healeys Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 11:12 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Having had a rear tire blowout in my BJ8 at about 65 mph, on a flat straight 4-lane there ain't no way I want to get close to 100 mph in that car. I did do an indicated 95 mph in my '73 Midget, going downhill in Pennsylvania once. Actually, I believe I had it out of gear. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary R. Brierton Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 8:00 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club 1968, on my honeymoon in my BJ8, one year out of the showroom. My wife and I witnessed a rollover accident on a deserted stretch of two lane in Nevada. Using the excuse that we needed to get to the next town to notify the police, I put my foot down and held it down. Just over 100 mph, there was a loud bang! Threw out the clutch and coasted to a vibrating stop. Looking under the hood, I initially saw no damage; no oil (well, no more than usual), no holes in the engine, no parts scattered about. Then I saw that one fan blade had come off and was halfway buried in the cross-member just below the radiator. If it had let go at any other point in it's rotation, the damage would probably been catastrophic, possibly including tire shredding. Unbolted the remaining half-blade and continued back to Illinois. Haven't topped 100 since. Gary Brierton $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net From HealeyHundred at comcast.net Wed Apr 11 12:28:32 2012 From: HealeyHundred at comcast.net (Richard Gordon) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:28:32 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Art & Models, Some Healey, some not Healey Part 2 Message-ID: #4: 3 X Austin Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Blueprint, X-ray, Advert This auction is for 3 pieces of Austin-Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Art. #1. Is a double exposure photographic print of a 1959 Bugeye Sprite in red with a roll bar. The exposure shows the Internal engine compartment. Dave Hill Restored the car and Vance Gerdau & Stef Butler did the photography. This print does show the credits and is dry mounted on foam core board. It measures 24 3/4th X 19 1/8th inches. #2. Is a blue print reproduction (the blue is almost black) of a full side view, a full top view, and both front and rear views of the Bugeye. This is a factory item from Longbridge, Birmingham and was drawn by M Brown showing part no. 3.3547102. It is also mounted on foam core board and measures 33 > X 24 inches. #3. Is an advertisement for Loans from Mitre Ultimax England. It does not have any of the Ultimax logos, just the word LOANS for a license plate. An altered bugeye with an exaggerated smile also mounted on foam core board measuring 13 1/8th X 10 > inches. Minimum price $75.00 #5: 3 X Austin Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Blueprint, X-ray, Advert This auction is for 3 pieces of Austin-Healey Bugeye (Frogeye) Art. #1. Cutaway drawing from The Motor by S. E. Porter and is dry mounted on foam core board. There is a smudge below the front wheel that might be removed just by erasing it. It measures 23 3/4th X 16 inches. #2. Is another of the Ultimax adverts for LOANS stating Even more to SMILE about It is also mounted on foam core board and measures 22 1/8 X 16 1/2 inches. #3. Holiday wrapping paper produced by Nationwide also mounted on foam core board measuring 16 7/8th X 12 1/2 inches. Minium price $ 35.00 #6: Mercedes Benz 300SL Roadster 1957 Red A 1957 Mercedes Benz 300SL Roadster by Burago in 1:18th scale. It is red with tan (parchment) interior. Mint in Mint box. Hood, trunk and doors open. Ref code: 3023 Made in Italy. Minimum price $20.00 #7: Shelby Cobra 427 S/C by Kyosho 1/18th. A beautiful Shelby Cobra 427 S/C in 1/18th scale. It is British Racing Green with a dark green interior. Hood and doors open. Comes with the original box Which shows normal shelf wear. Ref # KYO V0099. Also shows numbers: 7006 and 9800. Original sticker price Still on the box was $69.98. Minimum price $45.00 Richard Gordon Rocky Mountain Austin-Healey Club 1830 South Newport Street Denver, Colorado 80224 Home 303-756-7427 Cell 303-913-1171 HealeyHundred at comcast.net From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Apr 11 12:42:01 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 20:42:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> References: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> Message-ID: I really do not understand this discussion. Even living 1 mile from a German Autobahn (Motorway) exit I never had any desire to go with one of my Healeys to reach the 100 MPH. I can do it any day with my daily modern driver, but even with that car I see no real reason to do it. I want to drive my Healeys without taking any risk to blow the engine, which is bullet prove except when going to these high revs. Sorry, for me this discussion reminds me to my very early days in youth. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany. -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von BJ8 Healeys Gesendet: Mittwoch, 11. April 2012 20:12 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Having had a rear tire blowout in my BJ8 at about 65 mph, on a flat straight 4-lane there ain't no way I want to get close to 100 mph in that car. I did do an indicated 95 mph in my '73 Midget, going downhill in Pennsylvania once. Actually, I believe I had it out of gear. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry Havelock, NC USA From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 11 13:51:05 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 12:51:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: References: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120411124500.0210a078@pop.att.yahoo.com> I started the thread just for fun; that's all. If you recall my original post I was in high school at the time. Not saying I would do it now days but I have in modern driver setup for the task however, we don't have an Autobahn in the U.S. regards, John At 08:42 PM 4/11/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >I really do not understand this discussion. Even living 1 mile from a German >Autobahn (Motorway) exit I never had any desire to go with one of my Healeys >to reach the 100 MPH. I can do it any day with my daily modern driver, but >even with that car I see no real reason to do it. I want to drive my Healeys >without taking any risk to blow the engine, which is bullet prove except when >going to these high revs. >Sorry, for me this discussion reminds me to my very early days in youth. > >Josef Eckert >Konigswinter/Germany. From 55healey at comcast.net Wed Apr 11 14:33:03 2012 From: 55healey at comcast.net (robert westcott) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 13:33:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120411124500.0210a078@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20120411124500.0210a078@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <56EDB291-D5E3-43BC-BF6C-7B002E16A283@comcast.net> Hi Josef, I think it's more about the first time over 100, it reminds me of my very early days in youth also. 1962, still 15, no license, "Bedford Flats", a 1/2 mile straightaway just outside of Mt. Kisco, NY, only straight bit of road for 20 miles. "Borrowed" my Dad's brand new '62 Olds (a Company car). Out of the corner at 60+, hard on it till over the century mark and really hard on the brakes to get around the next corner. My first time over 100. Really dumb, really exciting, really crazy. Would I ever do it again? Would I ever tell anyone I did this? Never. Rob (by the way, I drove from Saarbrucken all the way to Frankfurt at over 100 with my new '72 BMW 2002, I absolutely loved the Autobahn's) On Apr 11, 2012, at 12:51 PM, john spaur wrote: > I started the thread just for fun; that's all. If you recall my > original post I was in high school at the time. > Not saying I would do it now days but I have in modern driver setup > for the task however, we don't have an Autobahn in the U.S. > > regards, > John > > At 08:42 PM 4/11/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> I really do not understand this discussion. Even living 1 mile from >> a German >> Autobahn (Motorway) exit I never had any desire to go with one of >> my Healeys >> to reach the 100 MPH. I can do it any day with my daily modern >> driver, but >> even with that car I see no real reason to do it. I want to drive >> my Healeys >> without taking any risk to blow the engine, which is bullet prove >> except when >> going to these high revs. >> Sorry, for me this discussion reminds me to my very early days in >> youth. >> >> Josef Eckert >> Konigswinter/Germany. From JPayne at ThorCon.net Wed Apr 11 14:58:20 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 20:58:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <56EDB291-D5E3-43BC-BF6C-7B002E16A283@comcast.net> References: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20120411124500.0210a078@pop.att.yahoo.com> <56EDB291-D5E3-43BC-BF6C-7B002E16A283@comcast.net> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C12706B28@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Cracking the ton isn't what it used to be, which is why it is so much fun in an old car. I see no reason NOT to push my antiques, that's why they built them and that's why I restored them. My Hemi Magnum and I routinely hit 120 at the end of the freeway onramp I use every morning, and I have bounced my 2006 GTO off the speed limiter at 165 on numerous occasions (168 at sea level). Hell, my Ford expedition will cruise all day at 100. None of it compares to doing it in the vintage rides. Jonas Payne Vice President of Preconstruction PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 15:13:25 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 14:13:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <56EDB291-D5E3-43BC-BF6C-7B002E16A283@comcast.net> References: <001901cd180e$873c09c0$95b41d40$@rr.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20120411124500.0210a078@pop.att.yahoo.com> <56EDB291-D5E3-43BC-BF6C-7B002E16A283@comcast.net> Message-ID: I did it all the time when I was young. The Healey cost me $500.00 and another $300.00 to rebuild the engine. I worked in an auto parts store and git stuff for cost , or free machining. Would not go above 85 in it now. It's worth too much and I have too much to loose and family that relies on me. Now in my dodge truck? Yes. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 11, 2012 1:33 PM, "robert westcott" <55healey at comcast.net> wrote: > Hi Josef, > > I think it's more about the first time over 100, it reminds me of my very > early days in youth also. > > 1962, still 15, no license, "Bedford Flats", a 1/2 mile straightaway just > outside of Mt. Kisco, NY, only straight bit of road for 20 miles. > "Borrowed" my Dad's brand new '62 Olds (a Company car). > Out of the corner at 60+, hard on it till over the century mark and really > hard on the brakes to get around the next corner. My first time over 100. > Really dumb, really exciting, really crazy. Would I ever do it again? > Would I ever tell anyone I did this? > Never. > > Rob (by the way, I drove from Saarbrucken all the way to Frankfurt at > over 100 with my new '72 BMW 2002, I absolutely loved the Autobahn's) > > On Apr 11, 2012, at 12:51 PM, john spaur wrote: > > I started the thread just for fun; that's all. If you recall my original >> post I was in high school at the time. >> Not saying I would do it now days but I have in modern driver setup for >> the task however, we don't have an Autobahn in the U.S. >> >> regards, >> John >> >> At 08:42 PM 4/11/2012 +0200, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com wrote: >> >>> I really do not understand this discussion. Even living 1 mile from a >>> German >>> Autobahn (Motorway) exit I never had any desire to go with one of my >>> Healeys >>> to reach the 100 MPH. I can do it any day with my daily modern driver, >>> but >>> even with that car I see no real reason to do it. I want to drive my >>> Healeys >>> without taking any risk to blow the engine, which is bullet prove except >>> when >>> going to these high revs. >>> Sorry, for me this discussion reminds me to my very early days in youth. >>> >>> Josef Eckert >>> Konigswinter/Germany. >>> >> ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From roberth148 at aol.com Wed Apr 11 15:15:44 2012 From: roberth148 at aol.com (roberth148) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 14:15:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: We were returning from the U.S.Grand Prix at Watkins Glen in the early 1960's. It was late at night and raining on the NE extension of the PA Turnpike. My 1960 AH 3000 had the original Dunlop tires that were not in greatest shape. My Friend was driving and decided to see if the car would really do the claimed 120 MPH. He got the car up to an indicated 120 MPH downhill in overdrive and I was about to reach over and turn off the ignition as the only way to slow him down when he saw what he thought might be a police car and immediately slowed down. He was not the best of drivers and had a number of accidents. He had also been denied an SCCA competition license due to his poor driving and car handling. We were glad he failed as we didn't want to be on the track with him. I never let him drive the car again and I never want to go that fast outside of a race track. We met again some years later and he told me he had become a driving instructor for the Porsche Club. Wow! I'm not sure what that says about Porsche driverfs. Bob Humphreys From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com Wed Apr 11 15:58:36 2012 From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 16:58:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001301cd182e$3f5c0590$be1410b0$@midwestarchaeology.com> My brother had a 1963 BJ7 back in 1969. I was 11 at the time. It was number #19669. Still don't know where that car is. Anyway, my brother Scott being a poor college student at the time couldn't afford tires. He was always buying some used 60 spoke wheel tire combo off of someone for $10 or so. He never left a stop sign or traffic light without laying rubber. Needless to say, all of his tires were random brand and bald. He used to hit 100mph damn near every day. He used to drive from Des Moines to Ames, Iowa to Iowa State University to pick up "chicks" doing 100 on the back roads nearly the entire way. He used to do 100mph on the freeway in Des Moines as well, sometimes during rush hour. Crazy! When I was in college in 1981 I convinced my best friend Jeff to go look at a 1959 100-6 in northern Iowa. Jeff ended up buying it for $875 and we hauled it back to Iowa City and began working on it. It hadn't been driven in years but it did come with new wheels and tires, which was rather odd. We ordered carb rebuild kits, drained the fuel tank, changed the oil did a bunch of other piddly-crap and got the beast running in a week! Late one night Jeff wanted to drive it sooo bad and was in such a hurry that he wouldn't let me put the fenders or trunk lid back on. This was a stripped down Healey at this point because we were planning on restoring it. There was no top, no interior either. Even the doors had no handles and we had to wire them shut. Jeff had to sit on a cement block, padded with a sack of dog food. He took it out west of town on IWV a very hill, but straight two lane road. Another friend of mine named Chris and I followed in a 1975 Vista Cruiser. We had a hard time keeping up with the Healey. As we followed him our speedo said 115, but was probably 10 too high. That was just nuts. It is strange how we all thought that we were invincible back then and all of the chances we took. Randy 63 BJ-7 60 BT-7 From mkgoodman at att.net Wed Apr 11 16:02:05 2012 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:02:05 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100MPH Club Message-ID: <005301cd182e$bc16b760$34442620$@net> Shortly after I did a ground up restoration on my BJ8 and had fresh tires on it, I went to an AHSTC Encounter in the Poconos and there was an opportunity to do a few parade laps at Pocono Motor Speedway. I was the last car in the group and went slow at first until the rest of the pack was half way around the track. I then pushed the accelerator to the floor and went to the top of the curve and then keeping the pedal down, went down the curve to the back straight section to catch up with the group. I know that the top speed of the BJ8 is 112 MPH on a straight and the speedometer reads about 120 MPH.I took a glance at the speedo and it was indicating "north" of 130MPH, so that at least exceeded 112. I would not try that now in the Healey, since my restoration was completed about 10 years ago. I now do track days in another car that allows me to safely reach speeds far "north" of that down the main straights of Watkins Glenn, Lime Rock or Monticello Motor Club. Mark Goodman 66BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From rd_parker at juno.com Wed Apr 11 16:16:40 2012 From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 15:16:40 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club Message-ID: <20120411.151711.1665.362401@mailpop01.vgs.untd.com> Josef, I concur. It is illogical to push the Healey into high speeds unless one is in a racing environment. And then, the machine should be in an absolutely first rate mechanical condition. Austin Healeys are not designed as 'hot rods'; they are enjoyable sports cars to be driven many years in the service environment designed for them. However, that being said, there will always be those, whether old or young, who must 'push the envelope' Bob Parker. Bellflower, California/USA. On Wed, 11 Apr 2012 20:42:01 +0200 writes: > I really do not understand this discussion. Even living 1 mile from a > German > Autobahn (Motorway) exit I never had any desire to go with one of my > Healeys > to reach the 100 MPH. I can do it any day with my daily modern > driver, but > even with that car I see no real reason to do it. I want to drive my > Healeys > without taking any risk to blow the engine, which is bullet prove > except when > going to these high revs. > Sorry, for me this discussion reminds me to my very early days in > youth. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany. > > -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- > Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im > Auftrag von BJ8 Healeys > Gesendet: Mittwoch, 11. April 2012 20:12 > An: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club > > Having had a rear tire blowout in my BJ8 at about 65 mph, on a flat > straight > 4-lane there ain't no way I want to get close to 100 mph in that > car. > I did do an indicated 95 mph in my '73 Midget, going downhill in > Pennsylvania > once. Actually, I believe I had it out of gear. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > Havelock, NC USA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rd_parker at juno.com > > ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f860312e4fe43395edst02vuc From awill at ccs.ua.edu Wed Apr 11 17:29:27 2012 From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 18:29:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I won't ruin another set of brake shoes. I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the list. Thanks in advance Allen Williams BJ7 From javrugtman at htcnet.org Wed Apr 11 17:50:14 2012 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 19:50:14 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <20120411.151711.1665.362401@mailpop01.vgs.untd.com> References: <20120411.151711.1665.362401@mailpop01.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4F8618B6.2010500@htcnet.org> I recall driving on French hyways, in 64 with a new healey regularily at around 90mph, which on those high crowned roads was a handful. I'd regularily try to get over 100, but keeping it on the road became problematic. On night at 90+ I was passed by a Citroen DS19!!! a four cylinder passenger car! He obviously had a better suspension for their roads than the healey. John 64/66 BJ8s From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 11 18:01:37 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:01:37 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: <4F861B61.5080408@comcast.net> 140 lb-ft On 4/11/2012 4:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced > the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I won't > ruin another set of brake shoes. > I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the list. > Thanks in advance > Allen Williams > BJ7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From awill at ccs.ua.edu Wed Apr 11 18:12:52 2012 From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 19:12:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <4F861B61.5080408@comcast.net> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <4F861B61.5080408@comcast.net> Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3C@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Holy Cow! I knew it was hard to get off. Thanks Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 7:01 PM To: Williams, Allen Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut 140 lb-ft On 4/11/2012 4:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 11 18:19:28 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:19:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3C@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <4F861B61.5080408@comcast.net> <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3C@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: <4F861F90.1040400@comcast.net> You pretty much want it to stay on. On 4/11/2012 5:12 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > Holy Cow! I knew it was hard to get off. > Thanks > > ________________________________________ > From: Bob Spidell [bspidell at comcast.net] > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 7:01 PM > To: Williams, Allen > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut > > 140 lb-ft > > > On 4/11/2012 4:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: >> Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that >> holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 11 19:14:02 2012 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 20:14:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Road trip Message-ID: Left Chicago this AM for Texas Healey Round-Up. 540 miles all back roads no interstate, 35F when we left side curtains came out at lunch. BT7 running good. Tomorrow back roads of Arkansas to Marshall, TX Bob From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 19:18:51 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 21:18:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: Hi Allen, As far as I am aware no torque is specified for the nut in question. I too have experienced problems with oil leaking into the rear brakes and only resolved this after taking particular care to ensure that the mating faces of the hub and axle were completely flat and that the protrusion of the spacer was no more than the 0.001 - 0.004 inches above a compressed gasket as specified in the manual. Because the paper gasket used is very thin the slightest distortion of the mating faces will cause leakage which I believe is amplified by centrifugal force when the hub is spinning. I only eliminated the problems by mounting the axle shaft between centers on a lather and making a truing cut on the face of the axle and then truing up the face of the hub with emery paper on a glass surface after the studs were removed. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've > replaced > the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I won't > ruin another set of brake shoes. > I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the > list. > Thanks in advance > Allen Williams > BJ7 From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Wed Apr 11 20:03:40 2012 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 02:03:40 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?100mph?= Message-ID: <20120412020340.29919.qmail@server278.com> when stationed in germany, i taught for Embry-Riddle University on weekends and would have to travel to different military locations for the classes. i could get it up to 100 (at least on the speedometer), but like others i would start thinking what the mess would be if i blew a tire and would back off to about 80 or so. wind noise would drive me crazy(ier) at those speeds. hjim From leavcast at gmail.com Wed Apr 11 20:12:13 2012 From: leavcast at gmail.com (George Castleberry) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 19:12:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: I solved the problem on my 59 bugeye by using the thicker gaskets supplied by bugeyebarn.com Easier for me, not having a lathe..... George Castleberry Flagstaff, AZ 54 100 59 Bugeye 73 GMC Motorhome ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Salter To: Williams, Allen Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 6:18 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut Hi Allen, As far as I am aware no torque is specified for the nut in question. I too have experienced problems with oil leaking into the rear brakes and only resolved this after taking particular care to ensure that the mating faces of the hub and axle were completely flat and that the protrusion of the spacer was no more than the 0.001 - 0.004 inches above a compressed gasket as specified in the manual. Because the paper gasket used is very thin the slightest distortion of the mating faces will cause leakage which I believe is amplified by centrifugal force when the hub is spinning. I only eliminated the problems by mounting the axle shaft between centers on a lather and making a truing cut on the face of the axle and then truing up the face of the hub with emery paper on a glass surface after the studs were removed. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've > replaced > the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I won't > ruin another set of brake shoes. > I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the > list. > Thanks in advance > Allen Williams > BJ7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/leavcast at gmail.com From awill at ccs.ua.edu Wed Apr 11 20:46:24 2012 From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 21:46:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <20120412022426.30270.qmail@server278.com> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <20120412022426.30270.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3E@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> I used a 2 3/16 socket with a 30 inch pull handle. It was hard to keep the socket on, but I pushed against it with one hand and pulled on the handle with the other. I have torque wrench the same length, so tightening it won't be an issue as long as it doesn't slip off. Regarding the surfaces of the hub and axle, I'll check that out before I button it all up again. ________________________________________ From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net [healeymanjim at hansencc.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 9:24 PM To: Williams, Allen Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut some one else will have to tell you the torque, but i was wondering where you got the socket wrench to remove the nut. no one seems to have them except in UK. > -------Original Message------- > From: Williams, Allen > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut > Sent: Apr 11 '12 23:29 > > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced > the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I won't > ruin another set of brake shoes. > I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the list. > Thanks in advance > Allen Williams > BJ7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeymanjim at hansencc.net From glemon at neb.rr.com Wed Apr 11 22:01:03 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:01:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100mph In-Reply-To: <20120412020340.29919.qmail@server278.com> References: <20120412020340.29919.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <659667DCF63844E2B216361FD714DE02@GregPC> I have nothing against going fast in old British sports cars, and I believe both Donald and Geoff made statements about the cars being engineered to travel at fast speeds safely (backed up by the various speed/endurance records they set in the 50s). I had my 100 over 90 mph at least a couple times, which was about all she would do on the tired old motor before I rebuilt it, but I do have to say the discreation got the better part of valor when I tried going fast with the windscreen lowered in the "racing" position. The rubber seal starts to flap at about 20-25, which is merely very annoying, about 35 or so the screen itself would visibly flex up and down. I never braved more than about 45 with the screen down, and marvel at the pictures of them being raced and the road tests showing the higher maximum speed with "screen lowered". Thoughts of the thing breaking and flying in my face were unpleasant and seemed likely enough for me to back off. Greg Lemon From ahpowered at hotmail.com Wed Apr 11 22:58:06 2012 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:58:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? Message-ID: After driving my BN7 I start to get a rhythmic squeak which sounds like it is coming from the rt front wheel area. It starts after going about 5 miles or so. It sounds like a spring or something. I can stop it by slightly turning the steering back and forth but it starts immediately when i go straight. I got home to remove the wheel and I noticed the knock off was much hotter on the rt side compared to the left which was just warm. Do you think this is bearings? My rotor spins ok so i don't think it is the brake. Sounds like a squeaky bed. i cannot see any problems. Hmmm. Thanks for any suggestions. Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From rwil at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 11 23:24:33 2012 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 22:24:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100mph In-Reply-To: <659667DCF63844E2B216361FD714DE02@GregPC> References: <20120412020340.29919.qmail@server278.com> <659667DCF63844E2B216361FD714DE02@GregPC> Message-ID: The only time I tried the screen lowered position, the rubber seal gave me such a Bronx Cheer that I stopped and placed the screen in its normal position. I would guess that for the speed runs they removed the rubber seal entirely. -Roland On Wed, 11 Apr 2012 23:01:03 -0500, you wrote: ::I had my 100 over 90 mph at least a couple times, which was about all she ::would do on the tired old motor before I rebuilt it, but I do have to say ::the discreation got the better part of valor when I tried going fast with ::the windscreen lowered in the "racing" position. The rubber seal starts to ::flap at about 20-25, which is merely very annoying, about 35 or so the ::screen itself would visibly flex up and down. I never braved more than ::about 45 with the screen down, and marvel at the pictures of them being ::raced and the road tests showing the higher maximum speed with "screen ::lowered". From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 03:47:15 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 05:47:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: On my Elva Courier race car, which uses a Morris Minor (Spridget) rear axle, the most common place for oil leaks to develop is at the lip seal which is pressed into the inner face of the hub and rides on the machined surface of the axle tube stub end. Cornering exerts a lot of leverage on the axle tube and the only thing keeping the hub square to the tube is the hub and bearing which absorb tremendous force, plus end loading. Even with the special double bearing hubs these forces are still exerted on a very short section of the axle and when the machined surface gets scored and/or the lip seal is damaged oil will leak into the brakes, and all of the silicone and new O-rings and paper gaskets will not stop it. The solution is to pull off the hub and press a sleeve over the end of the axle which is a very thin piece of formed metal that essentially renews the metal surface, fit up a new lip seal and reassemble. Chicago Rawhide manufacturers the seals and the corresponding sleeve kits. They cost about $50.00 and take only about 5 minutes to install once the hub is off. Best--Michael Oritt From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 04:13:46 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 18:13:46 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Scott - I suspect your bearings are either undershimmed or you need to tighten the hub castle nut one or two flats. Alan On 4/12/12, scott willis wrote: > After driving my BN7 I start to get a rhythmic squeak which sounds like it > is > coming from the rt front wheel area. It starts after going about 5 miles or > so. It sounds like a spring or something. I can stop it by slightly turning > the steering back and forth but it starts immediately when i go straight. I > got home to remove the wheel and I noticed the knock off was much hotter on > the rt side compared to the left which was just warm. Do you think this is > bearings? My rotor spins ok so i don't think it is the brake. Sounds like a > squeaky bed. i cannot see any problems. > > Hmmm. Thanks for any suggestions. > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -- Sent from my mobile device From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 04:16:07 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:16:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: All good advice. I'd just add the obvious. If the breather in your diff banjo is blocked, no amount of machining, aligning and seal replacement will keep the oil in. So first off, pull/ unscrew the breather - usually a "top hat" shaped thing - off the axle banjo, and clean it. Personally, I take the factory breather off, and fit a reasonably solid wall clear plastic tube, and run it up high, and back down, usually into the boot. Where it can breath, and no get crap into it. I also run the Chicago Rawhide seals. Last part number I have for a 3000 (seal only) is Z1091. (CR 20191) Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 12/04/2012, at 7:47 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: > On my Elva Courier race car, which uses a Morris Minor (Spridget) rear > axle, the most common place for oil leaks to develop is at the lip seal > which is pressed into the inner face of the hub and rides on the machined > surface of the axle tube stub end. > > Cornering exerts a lot of leverage on the axle tube and the only thing > keeping the hub square to the tube is the hub and bearing which absorb > tremendous force, plus end loading. Even with the special double bearing > hubs these forces are still exerted on a very short section of the axle and > when the machined surface gets scored and/or the lip seal is damaged oil > will leak into the brakes, and all of the silicone and new O-rings and > paper gaskets will not stop it. > > The solution is to pull off the hub and press a sleeve over the end of the > axle which is a very thin piece of formed metal that essentially renews the > metal surface, fit up a new lip seal and reassemble. Chicago Rawhide > manufacturers the seals and the corresponding sleeve kits. They cost about > $50.00 and take only about 5 minutes to install once the hub is off. From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 04:34:39 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:34:39 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 MPH Club In-Reply-To: <9FB848A9-F44E-4ABC-91BF-946B9D30EEF6@gmail.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120410205535.0208f4c8@pop.att.yahoo.com> <9FB848A9-F44E-4ABC-91BF-946B9D30EEF6@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4DE37431-8A88-493E-88BB-9D87DA99ECC7@gmail.com> Oops. My mistake. Read the wrong line. 6,200 rpm will make 150mph with a 3.54 diff, yoko A008 R tyres, and an 18% overdrive. I was running a 3.9:1 diff, so that is just over 135mph. Haven't run the 3.54:1 diff yet. For completeness, a 4.1:1 diff - everything else above equal - is about 130 mph. And ive run that set up - max rpm was half way down the straight.... Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 11/04/2012, at 7:27 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hey John, > At Eastern Creek raceway, with a 3.9:1 diff, and 195x60x15 tyres, I run out of revs about 2/3rds of the way down the front straight. I have to lift off at just over 6,000 rpm in overdrive top, and feather it I haven't looked down at the speedo, (tacho is on top of the dash) but by my calculations that's pretty close to 150 mph > Then you turn left, still at full throttle..... > > Denis Welch pulled around 8,500 rpm in overdrive top on Conrod straight at Bathurst, with a 4.8 diff & FIA tyres, passing Peter Hopwood, in the 1998 Healey races. He hit the speed trap at the Chase at just over 180mph. > > Best > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 11/04/2012, at 2:13 PM, john spaur wrote: > >> We all know that Donald Healey was a member of the 200 MPH club. >> >> I am wondering how many people have exceeded 100 MPH while driving an Austin-Healey. >> >> Many years ago, while a junior or senior in high school, me and two of my friends hit 110 MPH on a deserted stretch of freeway. It took a while to get up to that speed and we were going up a slight incline. The front end felt like it was riding on a marshmellow. >> >> Anyone have a story they are willing to share? From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Apr 12 06:52:36 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 06:52:36 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: <8ADF8AA5D7914DC291BA39ACA48CA02F@oscar> Good info. Thanks. dp frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 3:47 AM To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut On my Elva Courier race car, which uses a Morris Minor (Spridget) rear axle, the most common place for oil leaks to develop is at the lip seal which is pressed into the inner face of the hub and rides on the machined surface of the axle tube stub end. Cornering exerts a lot of leverage on the axle tube and the only thing keeping the hub square to the tube is the hub and bearing which absorb tremendous force, plus end loading. Even with the special double bearing hubs these forces are still exerted on a very short section of the axle and when the machined surface gets scored and/or the lip seal is damaged oil will leak into the brakes, and all of the silicone and new O-rings and paper gaskets will not stop it. The solution is to pull off the hub and press a sleeve over the end of the axle which is a very thin piece of formed metal that essentially renews the metal surface, fit up a new lip seal and reassemble. Chicago Rawhide manufacturers the seals and the corresponding sleeve kits. They cost about $50.00 and take only about 5 minutes to install once the hub is off. Best--Michael Oritt Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 12 07:21:21 2012 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 09:21:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002001cd18af$27773680$7665a380$@mindspring.com> Bad spoke? -skip- BJ7, BJ8... -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scott willis Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2012 12:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? After driving my BN7 I start to get a rhythmic squeak which sounds like it is coming from the rt front wheel area. It starts after going about 5 miles or so. It sounds like a spring or something. I can stop it by slightly turning the steering back and forth but it starts immediately when i go straight. I got home to remove the wheel and I noticed the knock off was much hotter on the rt side compared to the left which was just warm. Do you think this is bearings? My rotor spins ok so i don't think it is the brake. Sounds like a squeaky bed. i cannot see any problems. From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 12 07:26:56 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 06:26:56 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> re: "...tighten the hub castle nut one or two flats. " ... which I failed to do sufficiently one time and 'spun' the large, keyed flatwasher under the castellated nut. Produced a very loud 'skreech' until the washer turned about 45deg and embedded itself into the threads of the axle shaft. Fortunately, the sound went away after the washer stopped turning and it was otherwise OK for the 3K mile trip. Bob On 4/12/2012 3:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Scott - > > I suspect your bearings are either undershimmed or you need to tighten > the hub castle nut one or two flats. > > Alan > > On 4/12/12, scott willis wrote: >> After driving my BN7 I start to get a rhythmic squeak which sounds like it >> is >> coming from the rt front wheel area. It starts after going about 5 miles or >> so. It sounds like a spring or something. I can stop it by slightly turning >> the steering back and forth but it starts immediately when i go straight. I >> got home to remove the wheel and I noticed the knock off was much hotter on >> the rt side compared to the left which was just warm. Do you think this is >> bearings? My rotor spins ok so i don't think it is the brake. Sounds like a >> squeaky bed. i cannot see any problems. >> >> Hmmm. Thanks for any suggestions. >> >> >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jvvmusme at yahoo.com Thu Apr 12 08:01:25 2012 From: jvvmusme at yahoo.com (Jose Vicente Vargas) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 09:01:25 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? In-Reply-To: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> References: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Bearings Sent from my iPad On 12/04/2012, at 8:26 a.m., Bob Spidell wrote: > re: "...tighten the hub castle nut one or two flats. " > > ... which I failed to do sufficiently one time and 'spun' the large, keyed flatwasher under the castellated nut. Produced a very loud 'skreech' until the washer turned about 45deg and embedded itself into the threads of the axle shaft. > > Fortunately, the sound went away after the washer stopped turning and it was otherwise OK for the 3K mile trip. > > Bob > > On 4/12/2012 3:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote: >> Scott - >> >> I suspect your bearings are either undershimmed or you need to tighten >> the hub castle nut one or two flats. >> >> Alan >> >> On 4/12/12, scott willis wrote: >>> After driving my BN7 I start to get a rhythmic squeak which sounds like it >>> is >>> coming from the rt front wheel area. It starts after going about 5 miles or >>> so. It sounds like a spring or something. I can stop it by slightly turning >>> the steering back and forth but it starts immediately when i go straight. I >>> got home to remove the wheel and I noticed the knock off was much hotter on >>> the rt side compared to the left which was just warm. Do you think this is >>> bearings? My rotor spins ok so i don't think it is the brake. Sounds like a >>> squeaky bed. i cannot see any problems. >>> >>> Hmmm. Thanks for any suggestions. >>> >>> >>> >>> Scott Willis >>> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >>> 59 MGA >>> 66 E-Type FHC >>> >>> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jvvmusme at yahoo.com From ahpowered at hotmail.com Thu Apr 12 09:54:41 2012 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 10:54:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS In-Reply-To: <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> References: , , <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net>, <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be wearing unevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb The left side is wearing evenly. Cheers Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Apr 12 10:13:16 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 17:13:16 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS In-Reply-To: References: , , <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net>, <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cd18c7$3f2c2a70$bd847f50$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Haven't been following this thread with too much attention. Certainly brakes can squeak....does the squeak stop as you touch the brakes etcetc? If you are right, you might:- Swap the pads on the rhs ie take the pair out and put each one back in the other slot. Fit anti-squeal pads while you're at it. (both sides..sorry!) Clean up for brake dust etc in whole area. (both sides) Lubricate? (Both sides) Been a while - I'm always better in practise - but I seem to recall putting a dab of copperslip on something in that area. (Maybe I removed more than just pads?) Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of scott willis Sent: 12 April 2012 16:55 To: jvvmusme at yahoo.com; bspidell at comcast.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be wearing unevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb The left side is wearing evenly. Cheers Scott Willis From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 10:14:40 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 02:14:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS In-Reply-To: References: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Your caliper is Wallaby Ted? That's Australian. Wallaby Ted is Roo Ted's brother. The caliper is close to Roo Ted, relatively, so on one side, the piston isn't moving out cleanly. Or retracting fully. Rebuild the caliper. Rebuild both. If you don't do both, Ed will heap Kangaroo Doo on me. Something about if one is Wallaby Ted's bro, then both are Roo Ted. But first find a quiet car park, and try a few serious emergency brake slam ons. Brake like a Kangaroo just jumped in front of you.... Lock everything up - 8 or 10 times. But not on a public road! Sometimes movement, heat and use, fix brakes. Worth a try... Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 13/04/2012, at 1:54 AM, scott willis wrote: > I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be wearing > unevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo > http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb > > The left side is wearing evenly. > > Cheers > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From rjswain at hotmail.com Thu Apr 12 10:17:16 2012 From: rjswain at hotmail.com (Rick Swain) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:17:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS In-Reply-To: References: , , , , <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net>, , <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Sticking piston? > > I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be wearing > unevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo > http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb > > The left side is wearing evenly. > > Cheers > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC From healeyguy at aol.com Thu Apr 12 10:17:21 2012 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 12:17:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS Message-ID: <8CEE6DEDF5564DB-29F8-1870@webmail-d133.sysops.aol.com> Most likely one caliper piston is not moving in its bore. This will also cause a noise. Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: scott willis Sent: Thu, Apr 12, 2012 11:54 am I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be wearing nevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo ttp://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb The left side is wearing evenly. Cheers From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 10:25:33 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 02:25:33 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS In-Reply-To: References: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: <28BC2C67-FAF0-4CA0-A9B0-637F103EB5D4@gmail.com> Oh. And P.S. That webshots app is particularly Nasty on a mobile. There is no way to close that popup on an iPhone. One piston in that caliper is frozen. It's not moving. Start with the slam your foot on the pedal method.... 8 times. At speed. In a safe place. If it releases, bleed both calipers. If it doesn't??? Rebuild both calipers Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 13/04/2012, at 1:54 AM, scott willis wrote: > I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be wearing > unevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo > http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb > > The left side is wearing evenly. > > Cheers > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 12 10:27:12 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 09:27:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS In-Reply-To: References: , , <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net>, <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Caliper piston on the side that is not worn is frozen and the caliper needs rebuilt David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 12, 2012, at 8:54 AM, scott willis wrote: > I think I found the squeak. Any idea why my brake pads might be > wearing > unevenly on the rt front wheel? Here's a photo > http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2498491680100422800fsfiZb > > The left side is wearing evenly. > > Cheers > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Apr 12 12:29:28 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:29:28 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: Hi Chris, Do you still keep your factory breather? Would you sell it to me? Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Chris Dimmock Gesendet: Donnerstag, 12. April 2012 12:16 An: Michael Oritt Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut All good advice. I'd just add the obvious. If the breather in your diff banjo is blocked, no amount of machining, aligning and seal replacement will keep the oil in. So first off, pull/ unscrew the breather - usually a "top hat" shaped thing - off the axle banjo, and clean it. Personally, I take the factory breather off, and fit a reasonably solid wall clear plastic tube, and run it up high, and back down, usually into the boot. Where it can breath, and no get crap into it. I also run the Chicago Rawhide seals. Last part number I have for a 3000 (seal only) is Z1091. (CR 20191) Best Chris From kags at shaw.ca Thu Apr 12 13:51:44 2012 From: kags at shaw.ca (Earl Kagna) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 12:51:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: <1E8BF8DFADBF4D3BA65E91A789B28333@KagsLaptop> All: Good points Michael. I can't remember exactly when the change occurred, but I believe that the earlier cars did not use the rubber o-ring, so the spacer protrusion and the paper gasket sealing procedure is much more critical. On the later cars, presuming that everything else is well, the correct o-ring seems to do the job. Speaking of which, at some point in the past when fighting with axle leak problems with one or another of my Healeys, I discovered that the new o-rings being supplied were a bit small in section to get properly squeezed between the hub and the axle flange. I remember going to a bearing supply house and getting what I thought would be a better sealing o-ring - notably larger in section (but not large enough to distort). I'm pretty sure I recall that they were metric in size. They have worked perfectly for me (and others) ever since. I have no idea what is being supplied by the usual suppliers at this time. Since the o-rings worked well, the paper gaskets become basically a dust seal. I install them dry, mainly to maintain the spacing that was designed in. I know of others who simply omit them. Earl Kagna Victoria, B.C. BJ8, BT7 tri-carb -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 6:18 PM To: Williams, Allen Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut Hi Allen, As far as I am aware no torque is specified for the nut in question. I too have experienced problems with oil leaking into the rear brakes and only resolved this after taking particular care to ensure that the mating faces of the hub and axle were completely flat and that the protrusion of the spacer was no more than the 0.001 - 0.004 inches above a compressed gasket as specified in the manual. Because the paper gasket used is very thin the slightest distortion of the mating faces will cause leakage which I believe is amplified by centrifugal force when the hub is spinning. I only eliminated the problems by mounting the axle shaft between centers on a lather and making a truing cut on the face of the axle and then truing up the face of the hub with emery paper on a glass surface after the studs were removed. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Wed, Apr 11, 2012 at 7:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've > replaced > the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I > won't > ruin another set of brake shoes. > I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the > list. > Thanks in advance > Allen Williams > BJ7 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kags at shaw.ca From ahpowered at hotmail.com Thu Apr 12 15:50:26 2012 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 16:50:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS - In-Reply-To: References: , , <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net>, <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> , Message-ID: Thanks all for the advice. Do you think the warn brake pad side is stuck or the unworn side? I slammed the brakes and the caliper never seemed to come loose. These were rebuilt by Apple a few years back and have low miles on them. i will try new pads and see if I can get the thing unstuck somehow. Thx Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 16:46:25 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 15:46:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS - In-Reply-To: References: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Try removing the flrx hose from the metal line of the caliper. blow compressed air into the brake hose. see if that moves the caliper. If caliper is off, place something between th epistons so they do not get damaged when the piston blows free, On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 2:50 PM, scott willis wrote: > Thanks all for the advice. Do you think the warn brake pad side is stuck or > the unworn side? I slammed the brakes and the caliper never seemed to come > loose. These were rebuilt by Apple a few years back and have low miles on > them. i will try new pads and see if I can get the thing unstuck somehow. > > Thx > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 12 16:57:03 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 15:57:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS - In-Reply-To: References: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: Do not use compressed air you will spray brake fluid all over the place. The piston that is frozen is the pad that is not worn down. Remove the thickest pad and then go in the car and put your foot on the brake pedal. This will force the piston out, Then you can try and push the piston back in and install the pad. This may work but the caliper will probably start leaking of stick again. The only fix is to pull the caliper and rebuild correctly David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 12, 2012, at 3:46 PM, I Erbs wrote: > Try removing the flrx hose from the metal line of the caliper. blow > compressed air into the brake hose. see if that moves the caliper. > If caliper is off, place something between th epistons so they do > not get damaged when the piston blows free, > > On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 2:50 PM, scott willis > wrote: > Thanks all for the advice. Do you think the warn brake pad side is > stuck or > the unworn side? I slammed the brakes and the caliper never seemed > to come > loose. These were rebuilt by Apple a few years back and have low > miles on > them. i will try new pads and see if I can get the thing unstuck > somehow. > > Thx > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > eyera3000 at gmail.com > > > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 18:49:08 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 17:49:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Squeak at speed? - BRAKE PADS - In-Reply-To: References: <4F86D820.8050101@comcast.net> <9DFC8118-B578-482D-97E6-BB17F7370965@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've used co.pressed air with no issue. But I see your point Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 12, 2012 3:57 PM, "David Nock" wrote: > Do not use compressed air you will spray brake fluid all over the place. > > The piston that is frozen is the pad that is not worn down. Remove the > thickest pad and then go in the car and put your foot on the brake pedal. > This will force the piston out, Then you can try and push the piston back > in and install the pad. This may work but the caliper will probably start > leaking of stick again. > > The only fix is to pull the caliper and rebuild correctly > > > > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > Stockton Ca 95205 > > 209-948-8767 > > > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > . > > . > > On Apr 12, 2012, at 3:46 PM, I Erbs wrote: > > Try removing the flrx hose from the metal line of the caliper. blow > compressed air into the brake hose. see if that moves the caliper. If > caliper is off, place something between th epistons so they do not get > damaged when the piston blows free, > > On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 2:50 PM, scott willis wrote: > >> Thanks all for the advice. Do you think the warn brake pad side is stuck >> or >> the unworn side? I slammed the brakes and the caliper never seemed to come >> loose. These were rebuilt by Apple a few years back and have low miles on >> them. i will try new pads and see if I can get the thing unstuck somehow. >> >> Thx >> >> >> >> Scott Willis >> Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA >> 59 MGA >> 66 E-Type FHC >> >> http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ >> BG Euro Classics Car Club President >> Bowling Green, KY >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> > > > -- > Ira Erbs > Portland, OR > _______ _______ > (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) > (_________________________) From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 12 19:13:16 2012 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:13:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Road trip day 2 Message-ID: <8805EE92-87A1-4C32-8469-2613DEF46CF1@yahoo.com> Winona MO to Marshall, TX about 440 miles 120 on interstate after 2 hour repair of battery cable (smoke & flames). Lost parking brake and shinged the Bilstin shock. All is well now :) 280 to go tomorrow. Bob BT7 From awill at ccs.ua.edu Thu Apr 12 19:22:26 2012 From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 20:22:26 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 rear hub done-more to do In-Reply-To: <1E8BF8DFADBF4D3BA65E91A789B28333@KagsLaptop> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> , <1E8BF8DFADBF4D3BA65E91A789B28333@KagsLaptop> Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D48@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Hello again to all. Thanks to everyone for all your input. I wanted to let all of you know I got my hub back together today. I checked the spacer for the required protrusion. It came in at .003 inch. There is no grove worn yet on the tube axle so a redi-sleeve is probably not necessary. The seal seemed to be snug enough. There was enough space between the axle face and the hub to slip a .002 feeler gauge into it on one edge. Hopefully the gasket and sealer will continue to hold it. I took it for a road test and all seems well on that wheel. However I plan on putting a 50 or so miles on it this weekend to make sure. Then it will be on to another leak between the engine and trans that's proving to be elusive and very annoying. Regards From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 12 19:40:07 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 21:40:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Road trip day 2 In-Reply-To: <8805EE92-87A1-4C32-8469-2613DEF46CF1@yahoo.com> References: <8805EE92-87A1-4C32-8469-2613DEF46CF1@yahoo.com> Message-ID: "repair of battery cable (smoke & flames)" All part of the rich tapestry of life....with a any old car :-). -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Thu, Apr 12, 2012 at 9:13 PM, Bob Brown wrote: > Winona MO to Marshall, TX about 440 miles 120 on interstate after 2 hour > repair of battery cable (smoke & flames). Lost parking brake and shinged > the > Bilstin shock. All is well now :) 280 to go tomorrow. > Bob > BT7 From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Apr 12 20:19:01 2012 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 02:19:01 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <4F861F90.1040400@comcast.net> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, , <4F861B61.5080408@comcast.net>, <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3C@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <4F861F90.1040400@comcast.net> Message-ID: Get it tight - that means, snug it up, and then bend over a tab on the large washer underneath to prevent the nut from ever backing off. You don't need torque specs for this. It's simple. Bob is spot on --"You pretty much want it to say on." Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2012 17:19:28 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: awill at ccs.ua.edu > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut > > You pretty much want it to stay on. > > > On 4/11/2012 5:12 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > > Holy Cow! I knew it was hard to get off. > > Thanks > > > > ________________________________________ > > From: Bob Spidell [bspidell at comcast.net] > > Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 7:01 PM > > To: Williams, Allen > > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut > > > > 140 lb-ft > > > > > > On 4/11/2012 4:29 PM, Williams, Allen wrote: > >> Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > >> holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Thu Apr 12 21:35:03 2012 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 15:35:03 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Tools for removing rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3E@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <20120412022426.30270.qmail@server278.com> <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3E@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: Allen A friend had the same problem as you - with the socket slipping off the nut under load - so he ground about 1/8" off the face of the socket. This allowed all of the socket to fully engage with the hub nut. Problem solved. 30 years ago I bought a copy of the BMC tool made specifically for this task. It makes it a breeze! No cursing or busted knuckles, and no need for a torque wrench. Mark Donaldson Auckland. NZ -----Original Message----- From: Williams, Allen [mailto:awill at ccs.ua.edu] Sent: Thursday, 12 April 2012 2:46 p.m. To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut I used a 2 3/16 socket with a 30 inch pull handle. It was hard to keep the socket on, but I pushed against it with one hand and pulled on the handle with the other. I have torque wrench the same length, so tightening it won't be an issue as long as it doesn't slip off. Regarding the surfaces of the hub and axle, I'll check that out before I button it all up again. ________________________________________ From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net [healeymanjim at hansencc.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 9:24 PM To: Williams, Allen Subject: Re: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut some one else will have to tell you the torque, but i was wondering where you got the socket wrench to remove the nut. no one seems to have them except in UK. > -------Original Message------- > From: Williams, Allen > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Torque spec for BJ7 rear hub nut > Sent: Apr 11 '12 23:29 > > Can anyone tell me the correct torque, if any, for the large thin nut that > holds the rear hub(bearing carrier)and bearing to the BJ7 axle? I've replaced > the hub seal, have a new o-ring and axle shaft gasket, so hopefully I won't > ruin another set of brake shoes. > I am an infrequent poster here, but really appreciate the help from the list. > Thanks in advance > Allen Williams > BJ7 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeymanjim at hansencc.ne t From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Thu Apr 12 22:29:16 2012 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 04:29:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?axle_nut?= Message-ID: <20120413042916.7338.qmail@server278.com> what is the size across the flats on the axle nut? my brother and i are going to fabricate a wrench since he has access to a plazma cutter. hjim From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 12 23:03:44 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2012 22:03:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tools for removing rear hub nut In-Reply-To: References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <20120412022426.30270.qmail@server278.com> <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3E@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: <4F87B3B0.8040900@comcast.net> re: "30 years ago I bought a copy of the BMC tool made specifically for this task. It makes it a breeze! No cursing or busted knuckles, and no need for a torque wrench. " The BMC guys must have been pulling our legs, specifying an exact torque value when there was no need. Bob On 4/12/2012 8:35 PM, ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz wrote: > Allen > > A friend had the same problem as you - with the socket slipping off > the nut under load - so he ground about 1/8" off the face of the > socket. This allowed all of the socket to fully engage with the hub > nut. Problem solved. > > 30 years ago I bought a copy of the BMC tool made specifically for > this task. > It makes it a breeze! No cursing or busted knuckles, and no need for > a torque wrench. > > Mark Donaldson > Auckland. NZ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Fri Apr 13 00:19:22 2012 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 18:19:22 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Tools for removing rear hub nut In-Reply-To: <4F87B3B0.8040900@comcast.net> References: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3A@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu>, <20120412022426.30270.qmail@server278.com> <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE605EEB995D3E@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> <4F87B3B0.8040900@comcast.net> Message-ID: <121EA609483448C195D0A80516325E75@IBMD038403EC0B> It does make one wonder, Bob. The arms on the tool are 12" long from the centre. You can safely put a fair bit of grunt on it. See photos attached. Cheers Mark -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net] Sent: Friday, 13 April 2012 5:04 p.m. To: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Cc: 'Williams, Allen'; healeymanjim at hansencc.net; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tools for removing rear hub nut re: "30 years ago I bought a copy of the BMC tool made specifically for this task. It makes it a breeze! No cursing or busted knuckles, and no need for a torque wrench. " The BMC guys must have been pulling our legs, specifying an exact torque value when there was no need. Bob On 4/12/2012 8:35 PM, ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz wrote: > Allen > > A friend had the same problem as you - with the socket slipping off > the nut under load - so he ground about 1/8" off the face of the > socket. This allowed all of the socket to fully engage with the hub > nut. Problem solved. > > 30 years ago I bought a copy of the BMC tool made specifically for > this task. > It makes it a breeze! No cursing or busted knuckles, and no need for > a torque wrench. > > Mark Donaldson > Auckland. NZ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RHub 004.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RHub 001.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RHub 002.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RHub 003.JPG] From jwhlyadv at aol.com Fri Apr 13 07:01:00 2012 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 09:01:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Louisville Message-ID: <8CEE78C9A32BB2B-18B8-10FF2@webmail-d095.sysops.aol.com> Conclave Louisville Regalia Order Form can be downloaded at http://www.2012conclave.com/ Pre-orders due May 5, 2012 Port Authority Silk-Touch Polo Shirt b $30 PRE-ORDER ANY COLOR! Port Authority Silk-Touch Polo Shirt b $30 PRE-ORDER ANY COLOR! An enduring favorite, our comfortable classic sport shirt is anything but ordinary; with superior wrinkle and shrink resistance. PRE-ORDER ONE OF 32 COLORS! Red, white, royal and pink available at event. Red, white, royal and pink available at event. Visit www.AustinHealeyConclave.com for a color and size chart . TotesB. Golf size auto open folding umbrella b $25 Opens to full 55" and folds to only 19". Easily fits in the Healey and for roadster owners it can double as a quick top during a sudden downpour! Rubber coated handle with push button automatic open and a lifetime warranty. Twill cap b $17 100% washed cotton twill. 6-panel. Unstructured. Side metal eyelets. Self-fabric closure with brass buckle and grommet tuck-in. Stone and Olive available at event. PRE-ORDER ONLY COLORS: Black, Forest Green, Khaki, Mustard, Navy, Olive, Pink, Purple, Red, Royal, Stone and White. Visit www.AustinHealeyConclave.com for a color chart. Commemorative Conclave Stein b $20 Heft a cold one in this 22 oz. ceramic stein with gold trim. A great "usable" alternative to the trophy. Make any day Oktoberfest with this impressive stein in-hand. Cheers! Conclave Shot Glass b $10 Holding 1.9 oz., this ceramic shot glass has a beautiful white finish and black interior. Bring the fun to your next Healey party! Ladies Earrings b $20 These womenbs earrings are stylish and comfortable. Youbre sure to catch peoplebs eye with our glamorous custom jewelry thatbs ideal for a Healey weekend. Hot and Cold Plastic "Big Kids" Tumbler Mug b $10 This 22 oz. plastic thermo-mug is perfect for keeping beverages hot or cold and is great for travel. Commemorative Conclave Patch b $5 Lapel Pin b $7 T-Shirts (available in KIDS sizes) b $10 Classic white Jerzee t-shirt with full color Conclave logo imprint. Youth sizes: XS = 2-4, S = 6-8, M = 10-12, L = 14-16, XL = 18-20 Adult sizes: XS-XL Jim Werner Louisville, KY From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Apr 13 14:28:26 2012 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 13:28:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Axle nut tool dimension Message-ID: <001c01cd19b3$fee6c770$fcb45650$@com> I have one of the tools - it is an octagon, 2-3/16" across flats. >>> Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2012 04:29:16 +0000 From: > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] axle nut Message-ID: <20120413042916.7338.qmail at server278.com > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" what is the size across the flats on the axle nut? my brother and i are going to fabricate a wrench since he has access to a plazma cutter. hjim -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Fri Apr 13 16:24:24 2012 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 10:24:24 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] axle nut In-Reply-To: <20120413042916.7338.qmail@server278.com> References: <20120413042916.7338.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <05A14FEB3EAE426DBC9A0F4A26BC93F7@IBMD038403EC0B> 2 3/16" -----Original Message----- From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net [mailto:healeymanjim at hansencc.net] Sent: Friday, 13 April 2012 4:29 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] axle nut what is the size across the flats on the axle nut? my brother and i are going to fabricate a wrench since he has access to a plazma cutter. hjim From bighealey at charter.net Sat Apr 14 08:08:16 2012 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2012 07:08:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey Rendezvous 2012 Message-ID: <000d01cd1a48$10409d90$30c1d8b0$@charter.net> Austin Healey Rendezvous 2012 www.healeyrendezvous.com From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com Sun Apr 15 06:28:12 2012 From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 05:28:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Britfest Message-ID: <1334492892.59190.YahooMailClassic@web120105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> anyone going its May 5th From JPayne at ThorCon.net Sun Apr 15 16:39:16 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 22:39:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Britfest In-Reply-To: <1334492892.59190.YahooMailClassic@web120105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <1334492892.59190.YahooMailClassic@web120105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C13B9F177@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> My club (BACLV.org) is considering investing in an exhaust gas analyzer. It is my understanding that some of these units can be utilized while the car is in motion, so that we can check gasses under load while underway, thus giving a much better indication of carb tune than at idle or when testing under no load at various RPM's. Anybody have any familiarity with these types of tools that could make recommendations as to both the usefulness of this and / or which units are any good? Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From alexmm at roadrunner.com Sun Apr 15 17:19:41 2012 From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex) Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 19:19:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Heathkit CI-1080 exhaust gas analyzer References: <1334492892.59190.YahooMailClassic@web120105.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C13B9F177@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <41F1A7B0A5744FFB83CC5C486593517C@atc0f226cd3237> Jonas, I use an old Heathkit CI-1080 analyzer, which you can often find for sale on eBay, although they seem to fetch an inordinately high price (more than they're worth, IMHO). The CI-1080 uses a temperature probe that's placed in the exhaust pipe, and the readings are displayed on a large analog moving-coil meter that works in a balanced Wheatstone bridge circuit. This lets you read combustion efficiency and air-fuel ratio directly. The analog meter is easy to watch and interpret, as opposed to analyzers that use digital readouts. Because SU carbs can only be "tuned" at the idle, the Heathkit works really well for setting the mixture and checking it from time to time. I use the instrument on my BT7 as well as an MG TC. I used to work for Heathkit Co., and it sold kits, so I know that if you obtain one of these it is possible that it would be poorly assembled. However, myself and my pal Bob (who owns an MG TD and also has a CI-1080) find them cost effective and useful. They're easy to repair, too, if you get one that has poor soldering on its circuit board. == Alex in Maine "The Blue Mainie," 1960 Austin Healey 3000 BT7 "Conkling," 1946 M.G. TC #1321 Former owner 1957 A-H 100-6, 1967 A-H BJ8, 1965 MG Midget http://home.roadrunner.com/~alexmm ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jonas Payne" To: Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2012 6:39 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Britfest > My club (BACLV.org) is considering investing in an exhaust gas analyzer. > > It is my understanding that some of these units can be utilized while the > car > is in motion, so that we can check gasses under load while underway, thus > giving a much better indication of carb tune than at idle or when testing > under no load at various RPM's. > > Anybody have any familiarity with these types of tools that could make > recommendations as to both the usefulness of this and / or which units are > any > good? > > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 05:10:29 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:10:29 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Message-ID: Hi all, I am planning to finally switch to electronic ignition. (Rich, I hope we can still be friends!) I was wondering what the worldwide received wisdom was re the different types that are available. Seems the choice is: 1. Petronix (Very widely used in the US) 2. Ignitor (seems to be cheap to buy so does that mean it's cheap!) 3. Luminition ( has an external power module) 4. 1-2-3 Ignition system. Most expensive, but looks impressive. Would appreciate hearing for those that have switched to any of the above. BTW - I have posted photos of Rich's restoration of a very early Longrbridge BN4. These will be updated as work progresses. See http://www.healeysix.net/Restoration.htm cheers Derek www.healeysix.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 16 05:23:46 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 13:23:46 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F8C0142.2070807@chello.nl> Lumenition Optronic is the one with the external box, the Lumenition Magnetronic or Magtronic, not sure, is similar to the Petronics and Ignitor. It depends how cheap the Ignitor is but you can always give it a try if cheap enough. If it fails, to bad, you should have spend more on a Petronics. If it keeps alive, congratulations. The Lumenition Magtronic may not always reliable as I have heard of many failures, however these are possibly due to incorrect fitting. Make sure that the overal resistance over the terminals is 3 Ohms or higher unless stated otherwise. Many coils with resistor (wire) are 1,5 Ohms and the resistor (wire) also 1,5 Ohms. In these cases fit the electr. ignition over coil and resistor wire and disconnect the short from the starter solenoid. If there is a coil only it may be 3 Ohms and you can connect the electr. ignition directly over the coil. Kees Oudesluijs NL Kees Oudesluijs Op 16-4-2012 13:10, Derek Job schreef: > Hi all, > > I am planning to finally switch to electronic ignition. (Rich, I hope we > can still be friends!) > > I was wondering what the worldwide received wisdom was re the different > types that are available. Seems the choice is: > > 1. Petronix (Very widely used in the US) > > 2. Ignitor (seems to be cheap to buy so does that mean it's cheap!) > > 3. Luminition ( has an external power module) > > 4. 1-2-3 Ignition system. Most expensive, but looks impressive. > > Would appreciate hearing for those that have switched to any of the above. > > BTW - I have posted photos of Rich's restoration of a very early > Longrbridge BN4. These will be updated as work progresses. > See http://www.healeysix.net/Restoration.htm > > cheers > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4940 - datum van uitgifte: 04/16/12 From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 05:25:03 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 19:25:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Derek - unless you're a tune freak or a racer, just get the Pertonix Ignitor module. It is very reliable, cheap, and made in a way you can switch back to points in a pinch if you fry the module for some reason while on the road. Getting a new EI dizzy like the 123 or Pertonix Flamethrower is great, but risky if it fries on the road which it is known to happen especially with the 123s. Then you'd have to carry a spare dizzy (like I do in my A90). Lumenition requires some mounting of bits outside of the dizzy... So not really ideal when you start drilling holes in you engine bay. The Ignitor is pretty much plug and play, and you can switch back to points on the road in 10 min if you have to. Alan Sent from my iPad On Apr 16, 2012, at 7:10 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Hi all, > > I am planning to finally switch to electronic ignition. (Rich, I hope we > can still be friends!) > > I was wondering what the worldwide received wisdom was re the different > types that are available. Seems the choice is: > > 1. Petronix (Very widely used in the US) > > 2. Ignitor (seems to be cheap to buy so does that mean it's cheap!) > > 3. Luminition ( has an external power module) > > 4. 1-2-3 Ignition system. Most expensive, but looks impressive. > > Would appreciate hearing for those that have switched to any of the above. > > BTW - I have posted photos of Rich's restoration of a very early > Longrbridge BN4. These will be updated as work progresses. > See http://www.healeysix.net/Restoration.htm > > cheers > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 08:44:36 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 00:44:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> Hi Derek. You are comparing cheese and fish. Not a valid comparison. If you rebuild your Lucas distributor, and then fit an electronic module, that's one thing. If you just fit an electronic points module, then that's another. The first issue is related to expecting a 100,000 mile old Lucas distributor (which is expected to have been totally rebuilt after 60,000 miles, having had regular maintenance, including lubrication every 1,000 miles) to provide the correct advance curve for your 2012 Healey engine, on 2012 fuel., after you fit a points replacement system. If you replace the distributor with a new modern one, you probably solved all those issues. Especially the wear related ones. And a new appropriate advance curve? So to be totally fair, if you want to compare price and performance, for each proposed mod, then compare them this way. 1. Get quotes from a reputable company to actually rebuild your Lucas distributor, and regraph it to your 2012 engine & 2012 fuel. Then add the cost of the module (eg Pertronics, 123addin) 2. Compare cost for 1. Above to a total distributor replacement product (e.g. Complete 123 electronic distributor) and get it graphed for your engine & fuel. Then it's a fair comparison. It's wrong to compare a Pertronics fitted to a worn out, no idea of the advance curve Lucas wobbly 100,000 mile old distributor to a new 123 Ignotion distributor. Personally, a rebuilt, regraphed Lucas 23D with cooper S 32oz points does it for me. Rebuilt, converted to 6 cyl, and graphed to my engine. Anything else half way between, and ignoring wear, and you'll never know the real potential of your engine. With a worn out distributor, with an advance curve that bears no resemblance to your current engines reality, or 2012 fuel - and just electronic? It's a Band Aid. A good Ignition system, with wear eliminated, and an appropriate ignition curve, is the cheapest, highest performance, and most economical engine mod on the planet. And whether you need to change points every 5 years or do - well, that's pretty moot. BMC engines ran at 9,000 revs in Formula Junior with pretty much the same distributor I run. A Lucas one, with a dyno graphed advance curve, and Cooper S points. Your mileage will vary. Chris Yes. I've spent a lot of time on this aspect of Healey tuning. So I'm a bit passionate. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 16/04/2012, at 9:10 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Hi all, > > I am planning to finally switch to electronic ignition. (Rich, I hope we > can still be friends!) > > I was wondering what the worldwide received wisdom was re the different > types that are available. Seems the choice is: > > 1. Petronix (Very widely used in the US) > > 2. Ignitor (seems to be cheap to buy so does that mean it's cheap!) > > 3. Luminition ( has an external power module) > > 4. 1-2-3 Ignition system. Most expensive, but looks impressive. From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Apr 16 09:46:13 2012 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 16:46:13 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> Message-ID: Just a query. I read in many documents in the past that the vacuum advance in an original distributor, advanced the spark on light throttle so as to compensate for the slower combustion burn with weak mixture. Without it higher fuel consumption whilst cruising is likely. I have experienced this myself when a vacuum unit has failed when the diaphragm is punctured. Some of the options listed in previous e-mails do not have any method of measuring the vacuum from the carburettor so I have to assume that these are less fuel efficient on long, steady speed journeys. Any comments please Regards -- John Harper From shop at justbrits.com Mon Apr 16 09:53:05 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 10:53:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F8C4061.5060204@justbrits.com> << On 4/16/2012 6:10 AM, Derek Job wrote: I am planning to finally switch to electronic ignition. >> Derek, PLZ send me $100.00 and I'll send you a good set of points [ n/c surface] ! ! << (Rich, I hope we can still be friends!) >> It's OK by me !! Ed PS: I "keep the change" ! From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 10:18:23 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 02:18:23 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> Message-ID: <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> Fair call John. A Lucas healey distributor uses ported vacuum. Which is an SU thing. Vacuum is taken at the throttle plate. Not the inlet manifold. These - ported vacuum and manifold vacuum - are exact opposite vacuums. Opposite. That's why you never connect a std Healey Lucas distributor vacuum advance to a manifold vacuum port on eg a triple weber Healey. And that's why a factory triple weber Healey had no vacuum advance on a Lucas distributor. I use a 23d non vacuum advance distributor, converted to 6 cyl, on my triple webered healey - which is exactly what the DHMCo did on its race cars. No idea what vacuum type 3rd party distributors are looking for. And it depends on your carbs too. I was just trying to encourage like for like comparison Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 17/04/2012, at 1:46 AM, John Harper wrote: > > > Just a query. > > I read in many documents in the past that the vacuum advance in an original distributor, advanced the spark on light throttle so as to compensate for the slower combustion burn with weak mixture. Without it higher fuel consumption whilst cruising is likely. I have experienced this myself when a vacuum unit has failed when the diaphragm is punctured. > > Some of the options listed in previous e-mails do not have any method of measuring the vacuum from the carburettor so I have to assume that these are less fuel efficient on long, steady speed journeys. > > Any comments please > > Regards > -- > John Harper From 050.rpl at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 10:22:55 2012 From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Price Lindsay) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:22:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 Message-ID: I am thinking about switching out my original distributor (have replaced points with Pertronix) to something more modern. I have looked at 123 - Ignition distributors and Mallory. What are the advantages of both and how much modification do I need to do to make them work? Are there others I should consider? Am I better off just rebuilding my current distributor? This is a driver which I autocross on occasion. Thanks in advance. Price Lindsay 67 BJ8 From medlabinc at msn.com Mon Apr 16 10:31:15 2012 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 09:31:15 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Which electronic ignition? Message-ID: ----- Original Message ----- From: Dick Matson To: AustinHealey List Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 8:23 AM Subject: Fw: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Thank you for your passion Chris. Recently I was looking over something called EDIS Ignition - available currently for E-Types and maybe TR-6s now - and wondering if it might have application to the 6-cylinder Healeys. I don't know about possible cost or otherwise much else about EDIS yet. It apparently incorporates a Ford controller and installation of a trigger wheel mounted to the crank. The feature I liked about EDIS is that it deals with the fuel, 2012 and wear factors you mention. Also - reverse the installation procedure to go back to factory original if desired. It is not a system that in case of anything permits re-installation of points/condenser on the road however. Merely looking at options and asking around. NFI. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Chris Dimmock To: Derek Job Cc: Forum Sent: Monday, April 16, 2012 7:44 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Hi Derek. You are comparing cheese and fish. Not a valid comparison. If you rebuild your Lucas distributor, and then fit an electronic module, that's one thing. If you just fit an electronic points module, then that's another. Your mileage will vary. Chris Yes. I've spent a lot of time on this aspect of Healey tuning. So I'm a bit passionate. ;-) From coudesluijs at chello.nl Mon Apr 16 10:35:25 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:35:25 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> The 123 ignition has the advantage of an adjustable advance curve. There are many options to choose from. As with most electronic ingnition check the coil (plus resistor or resitor wire) is 3 Ohms or more unless stated otherwise. This system is very robust and rarely gives any trouble. if connected up properly. Kees Oudesluijs Op 16-4-2012 18:22, R. Price Lindsay schreef: > I am thinking about switching out my original distributor (have replaced > points with Pertronix) to something more modern. I have looked at 123 - > Ignition distributors and Mallory. What are the advantages of both and how > much modification do I need to do to make them work? Are there others I > should consider? Am I better off just rebuilding my current distributor? > > This is a driver which I autocross on occasion. > > Thanks in advance. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4940 - datum van uitgifte: 04/16/12 From ah at jharper.demon.co.uk Mon Apr 16 10:52:54 2012 From: ah at jharper.demon.co.uk (John Harper) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:52:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> Message-ID: <7U$KLcKm5EjPFw5D@jharper.demon.co.uk> Chris Yes I do know that the vacuum pipe into the distributor comes from a little hole that is only uncovered when the carburettor butterfly is opened. I don't believe that I said vacuum from the manifold but from the carburettor. I accept that one can afford to ignore this on race cars because in this situation one is unlikely to run for long periods on light throttle. But my query still stands. It does not relate to Race cars but to standard cars using original SU carburettors being converted to electronic ignition. Best regards -- John Harper From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 11:48:19 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:48:19 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees ...and it's made in the Netherlands so you'll have no problem reading the instructions!. Seriously though - Chris's comments are very good. Rebuild a distributor before installing electronic ignition or go with something new. Do you recommend the 1-2-3? cheers Derek On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 5:35 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > The 123 ignition has the advantage of an adjustable advance curve. There > are many options to choose from. As with most electronic ingnition check > the coil (plus resistor or resitor wire) is 3 Ohms or more unless stated > otherwise. > This system is very robust and rarely gives any trouble. if connected up > properly. > Kees Oudesluijs > > Op 16-4-2012 18:22, R. Price Lindsay schreef: > >> I am thinking about switching out my original distributor (have replaced >> points with Pertronix) to something more modern. I have looked at 123 - >> Ignition distributors and Mallory. What are the advantages of both and >> how >> much modification do I need to do to make them work? Are there others I >> should consider? Am I better off just rebuilding my current distributor? >> >> This is a driver which I autocross on occasion. >> >> Thanks in advance. >> >> Price Lindsay >> 67 BJ8 >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl >> >> >> >> ----- >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4940 - datum van uitgifte: >> 04/16/12 >> > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 12:18:33 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 11:18:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> Message-ID: I was having advance issues with my 60 year old dizzy. Typical Lucas ;-) I'm converting to a new petronics dizzy. Have not refired the car yet. I had to take a break from resto to earn a living. Hope to have her running soon. I love the look of the oem dizzy, so if yours is in good order and you want modern spark ,convert the top bits and keep a set of points/ condensor in the boot. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR From pieters at pt.lu Mon Apr 16 12:26:37 2012 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:26:37 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] 123 ignition Message-ID: <38D49D2F-C035-4B77-80C1-692AE310083F@pt.lu> If you want a modern dizzy but an original look you could try this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123-ignition-distributor-AUSTIN-HEALEY-100-6-3000-/ 230773923624?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35bb329f28 cheers From shop at justbrits.com Mon Apr 16 12:37:00 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 13:37:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: [9issa] Obituary In-Reply-To: <1334518063.49994.YahooMailClassic@web180605.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1334518063.49994.YahooMailClassic@web180605.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F8C66CC.7010400@justbrits.com> Below was post to my 9issa Joke List and I felt that "timing", even tho 4 days late, was great AND that Spridgeteers deserved to share ! ! ! Frank could have been PRESIDENT of the "Club" ! ! LOL ! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [9issa] Obituary Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 12:27:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael MacLean !!!!! [or ARE 'them' - LOL] Ed PS: Works just like the AutoX.Team.net Lists ! ! ! Just send a eMail to: 9issa-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:" and just the word subscribe in the "Body" ! Rest is automatic ! ! ! PPS: PolySci_101 is DIFFERENT List. From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Apr 16 13:02:31 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 12:02:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Fwd: [9issa] Obituary In-Reply-To: <4F8C66CC.7010400@justbrits.com> Message-ID: <1334602951.22258.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Here's some more details: http://dailycaller.com/2012/04/15/re...ardly-knew-ye/ BTW, his son "Chopper" was his cat. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 4/16/12, " Just Brits " Shop wrote: From: " Just Brits " Shop Subject: [Spridgets] Fwd: [9issa] Obituary To: "4 - Spridgets" , "4 - sprite-midgetclub" , "4 - bugeye at yahoo" , "bugeyesprites" , "Healeys" Date: Monday, April 16, 2012, 2:37 PM Below was post to my 9issa Joke List and I felt that "timing", even tho 4 days late, was great AND that Spridgeteers deserved to share ! ! ! Frank could have been PRESIDENT of the "Club" ! ! LOL ! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [9issa] Obituary Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2012 12:27:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Michael MacLean !!!!! [or ARE 'them' - LOL] Ed PS: Works just like the AutoX.Team.net Lists ! ! ! Just send a eMail to: 9issa-request at justbrits.com with NO "Subject:" and just the word subscribe in the "Body" ! Rest is automatic ! ! ! PPS: PolySci_101 is DIFFERENT List. ------------------------ spridgets at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation: $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/healeyrick at yahoo.com From ah3000me at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 14:28:53 2012 From: ah3000me at gmail.com (Tom) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 16:28:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> Message-ID: If you put a vacuum gauge on the distributor advance, how much vacuum should you see when the throttle plate is closed, and when the throttle plate is partially opened? - Tom On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 2:18 PM, I Erbs wrote: > I was having advance issues with my 60 year old dizzy. Typical Lucas ;-) > I'm converting to a new petronics dizzy. Have not refired the car yet. I > had to take a break from resto to earn a living. Hope to have her running > soon. I love the look of the oem dizzy, so if yours is in good order and > you want modern spark ,convert the top bits and keep a set of points/ > condensor in the boot. > > Ira Erbs > IT Consultant > Portland, OR > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah3000me at gmail.com From edic at tampabay.rr.com Mon Apr 16 15:54:18 2012 From: edic at tampabay.rr.com (edic at tampabay.rr.com) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:54:18 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension BJ8 Message-ID: <4F8C950A.000012.05780@MEL-HP> Listers- I need to know the size of the front hub retaining nut as I as re greasing my bearings and will need to purchase the correct socket. Thanks in advance and you can respond off list to me. Happy Healeying, Mel Brunet HBJ8L/39749 Land O Lakes, FL [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of untitled-1.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of butterflies3_hyper+btn.gif] From racarbon at verizon.net Mon Apr 16 16:27:07 2012 From: racarbon at verizon.net (RACarbone) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:27:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Message-ID: <122BC72532D2486E95E7A4C9920DB7FB@RACLaptop> Hi Derek, I have been running a Crane XR700 warranty replacement ever since my original Allison optical sensor failed about 15 years or so. It is an engine compartment box housing its Capacitive Discharge technology and uses an in-distributor optical trigger. I have also installed a 40 K coil with a set of very good wires and commonly shift at 5K without miss. Although this unit is not cheap and is not completely housed under the distributor cap, I have found it extremely reliable. Prior, I used to adjust my HD8s a number of times during the year to get good performance from my higher-than-normal compression. With the Crane XR700 adjust the carburetors once in the past 2 years and still retained good performance. Hope this helps, Ray (64BJ8P1) From warthodson at aol.com Mon Apr 16 16:52:22 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:52:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> Message-ID: <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> I fail to see the "advantage" of an adjustable advance curve over the advance curve engineered by the factory. How in the world would the average Healey owner without access to a dyno & other equipment determine if he has adjusted the advance curve correctly. Do the instructions that come with this distributor shed some light of this? From a practical point of view how much room for "improvement" is there when compared to the original advance curve? Gary Hodson The 123 ignition has the advantage of an adjustable advance curve. From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 16:53:47 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 08:53:47 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: <7U$KLcKm5EjPFw5D@jharper.demon.co.uk> References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> <7U$KLcKm5EjPFw5D@jharper.demon.co.uk> Message-ID: <6E41AAE4-2A1C-43E3-9433-922A4B852304@gmail.com> Hi John, I wasn't arguing with your comments re vacuum. Maybe my Australian slang opening line was taken the wrong way? Fair call= similar to fair enough, like good one. If you just change the points for an electronic method of opening and closing the circuit, on an SU/ Lucas system, then i don't see that you would change how the vacuum aspect of the Lucas distributor operates. Or does it?? I don't know. My comment was that I have no idea what "type" of vacuum a replacement/ aftermarket distributor (Mallory, 123 ignition) distributor requires. Are they designed to use manifold vacuum, or "ported vacuum"? Again, I don't know. But I'd work it out before I just plugged it in. Why did i raise this? Because I do know that if you connect the vacuum to the 'wrong' point - e.g if you connect a standard Lucas Healey distributor vacuum line to the manifold of a Healey it will do exactly the opposite to what a Lucas/ Healey distributor vacuum advance is designed to do. Same if you connect a distributor that has vacuum advance designed for manifold vacuum, and you connect it to the ported vacuum. Hence the weber comment. How many webered Healeys have you seen with a vacuum line from a Healey/ lucas distributor connected to the manifold? I've seen a few. It won't work. It will provide the vacuum operated advance at the wrong time. It will advance the ignition when the engine doesn't want, or need, extra ignition advance. Best. Chris Sent from my iPhone On 17/04/2012, at 2:52 AM, John Harper wrote: > Chris > > Yes I do know that the vacuum pipe into the distributor comes from a little hole that is only uncovered when the carburettor butterfly is opened. I don't believe that I said vacuum from the manifold but from the carburettor. > > I accept that one can afford to ignore this on race cars because in this situation one is unlikely to run for long periods on light throttle. > > But my query still stands. It does not relate to Race cars but to standard cars using original SU carburettors being converted to electronic ignition. > > Best regards > > John Harper From amalin at mac.com Mon Apr 16 17:11:18 2012 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 19:11:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31FE1598-2325-4EDB-B2AC-D4B64A2EEED8@mac.com> Consider sending it to Jeff at Advanced Distributors. He'll rebuild it better than new. While you're at it tell him to drop in a Pertronics. http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ Al Malin Tricarb On Apr 16, 2012, at 12:22 PM, R. Price Lindsay wrote: > I am thinking about switching out my original distributor (have replaced > points with Pertronix) to something more modern. I have looked at 123 - > Ignition distributors and Mallory. What are the advantages of both and how > much modification do I need to do to make them work? Are there others I > should consider? Am I better off just rebuilding my current distributor? > > This is a driver which I autocross on occasion. > > Thanks in advance. > > Price Lindsay > 67 BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/amalin at mac.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 18:34:43 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 10:34:43 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8927250A-197D-4126-9649-059F7B42140C@gmail.com> Hi Gary, After a 100,000 miles or so, without having been rebuilt, any distributor (Lucas or not) will not be operating at the original factory advance curve settings. Especially a Lucas, which wears without regular lubrication, and where most of the advance characteristics are determined by 2 little springs and a cam..... Our problem is compounded by the fact that our cars, when they were built, were specified (look in your owners handbook) to run with high octane leaded fuel - which isn't available to most people in the world in 2012. So the issue is that no one with a non rebuilt, and non regraphed distributor is actually running the factory engineered advance curve; and in 2012, with current fuel, and changes made over the last 50 years or so to our cars (different cam? Rebored? Lightened flywheel? Ported head and bigger valves?) it probably isn't the correct advance curve for your current engine setup running current fuel.... I can see the advantage, but I don't have a 123 distributor, so I can't comment on how you set it up, or how you change it. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 17/04/2012, at 8:52 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > I fail to see the "advantage" of an adjustable advance curve over the advance > curve engineered by the factory. > How in the world would the average Healey owner without access to a dyno & > other equipment determine if he has adjusted the advance curve correctly. Do > the instructions that come with this distributor shed some light of this? From > a practical point of view how much room for "improvement" is there when > compared to the original advance curve? > Gary Hodson > > > The 123 ignition has the advantage of an adjustable advance curve. > ______________________________ From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Mon Apr 16 18:35:20 2012 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 00:35:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension BJ8 In-Reply-To: <4F8C950A.000012.05780@MEL-HP> References: <4F8C950A.000012.05780@MEL-HP> Message-ID: Off the top of my head - 1-1/8" torqued to 45 ft lbs plus maybe a little bit more to get the cotter pin holes to line up. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:54:18 -0400 > From: edic at tampabay.rr.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Front suspension BJ8 > > Listers- I need to know the size of the front hub retaining nut as I as re > greasing my bearings and will need to purchase the correct socket. Thanks in > advance and you can respond off list to me. > > Happy Healeying, > > Mel Brunet > HBJ8L/39749 > Land O Lakes, FL > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of untitled-1.jpg] > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of butterflies3_hyper+btn.gif] > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 18:40:40 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:40:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: <122BC72532D2486E95E7A4C9920DB7FB@RACLaptop> References: <122BC72532D2486E95E7A4C9920DB7FB@RACLaptop> Message-ID: Just to thicken the mix I have been using Mallory Unilites on both my 100 and my wife's 3000 for a number of years with no problems. One advantage of the Mallory brand is that parts are readily available at many speed shops as opposed to having to order online. Another is that the distributor cap is red. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 6:27 PM, RACarbone wrote: > Hi Derek, > > I have been running a Crane XR700 warranty replacement ever since my > original > Allison optical sensor failed about 15 years or so. It is an engine > compartment box housing its Capacitive Discharge technology and uses an > in-distributor optical trigger. I have also installed a 40 K coil with a > set > of very good wires and commonly shift at 5K without miss. > > Although this unit is not cheap and is not completely housed under the > distributor cap, I have found it extremely reliable. Prior, I used to > adjust > my HD8s a number of times during the year to get good performance from my > higher-than-normal compression. With the Crane XR700 adjust the > carburetors > once in the past 2 years and still retained good performance. > > Hope this helps, > Ray (64BJ8P1) > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Mon Apr 16 18:57:11 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:57:11 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Camera Message-ID: <4F8CBFE7.2080506@bradakis.com> I've got to start taking my camera to work. Had a very nice looking BJ8 come in today, maybe fuel delivery issues, we shall see. But if I start taking pictures of the nicer cars I work on I will need to get the forums fixed so I can post pics there. It's always something. mjb. From JPayne at ThorCon.net Mon Apr 16 19:01:15 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 01:01:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <8927250A-197D-4126-9649-059F7B42140C@gmail.com> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> <8927250A-197D-4126-9649-059F7B42140C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C14666812@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Over the past few weeks, we had a TR6 in the shop that had been suffering from a "stutter" at throttle tip in for about a year. Suddenly (literally overnight), the car was un-drivable, shaking, bucking and not making any power at all. We did an ignition tune up at the cost of $80 (cap, points, test coil, wires, plugs), no improvement. (Parts needed replacement anyway) Vacuum check, nothing, carb check, nothing....................absolutely stumped. After removal and replacement of the dist (for no other reason than "why not")., you could literally move the dist. shaft enough that when the points were open at one point in the rotation, it would close the points. Turns out the upper bushing on the dist was severely worn, causing the timing to jump as much as 20 degrees, which we discovered while doing a much more exhaustive timing check. Apparently the eccentric wear on the bushing finally got to a point where the shaft was "dropping into a hole" on side loading from the cam. None of this was evident at first glance or would have been obvious if you hadn't been looking for it. This was a very well maintained 65k mile car. It now pulls like a freight train and is as smooth as silk - cost of distributor rebuild - $40. Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 16 19:18:30 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:18:30 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C14666812@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> <8927250A-197D-4126-9649-059F7B42140C@gmail.com> <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C14666812@ex1mbx01.onthenetoffice.com> Message-ID: <4F8CC4E6.4000706@comcast.net> Seems like this problem should have evidenced itself as an extremely wobbly dwell? On 4/16/2012 6:01 PM, Jonas Payne wrote: > Over the past few weeks, we had a TR6 in the shop that had been suffering from > a "stutter" at throttle tip in for about a year. Suddenly (literally > overnight), the car was un-drivable, shaking, bucking and not making any power > at all. > > We did an ignition tune up at the cost of $80 (cap, points, test coil, wires, > plugs), no improvement. (Parts needed replacement anyway) Vacuum check, > nothing, carb check, nothing....................absolutely stumped. > > After removal and replacement of the dist (for no other reason than "why > not")., you could literally move the dist. shaft enough that when the points > were open at one point in the rotation, it would close the points. Turns out > the upper bushing on the dist was severely worn, causing the timing to jump as > much as 20 degrees, which we discovered while doing a much more exhaustive > timing check. Apparently the eccentric wear on the bushing finally got to a > point where the shaft was "dropping into a hole" on side loading from the cam. > None of this was evident at first glance or would have been obvious if you > hadn't been looking for it. > > This was a very well maintained 65k mile car. > > It now pulls like a freight train and is as smooth as silk - cost of > distributor rebuild - $40. > > Jonas Payne > PBR > Cell: (702) 358-5084 > _______________________________________________ > t > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 19:21:03 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 09:21:03 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <8927250A-197D-4126-9649-059F7B42140C@gmail.com> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> <8927250A-197D-4126-9649-059F7B42140C@gmail.com> Message-ID: Chris, Gary et al., The Lucas distributors almost always fail at the bushings, and also some cam wear (irrelevant if converting to Pertonix Ignitor). Vacuum advance goes as well. I am sure Jeff at Advanced Disctibutors can confirm, but from what I've heard as long as the springs don't show any sign of corrosion, the advance curves are pretty accurate from the day it left the factory. Apparently the old british springs are high quality. The Pertronix Ignitor module will work just fine and allow for some wear in the bushings, but of course if the rotor is starting to contact the distributor cap you are overdue for a rebuild, points or no points. Alan On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 8:34 AM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > Hi Gary, > After a 100,000 miles or so, without having been rebuilt, any distributor > (Lucas or not) will not be operating at the original factory advance curve > settings. Especially a Lucas, which wears without regular lubrication, and > where most of the advance characteristics are determined by 2 little > springs > and a cam..... > Our problem is compounded by the fact that our cars, when they were built, > were specified (look in your owners handbook) to run with high octane > leaded > fuel - which isn't available to most people in the world in 2012. > So the issue is that no one with a non rebuilt, and non regraphed > distributor > is actually running the factory engineered advance curve; and in 2012, with > current fuel, and changes made over the last 50 years or so to our cars > (different cam? Rebored? Lightened flywheel? Ported head and bigger > valves?) > it probably isn't the correct advance curve for your current engine setup > running current fuel.... > I can see the advantage, but I don't have a 123 distributor, so I can't > comment on how you set it up, or how you change it. > Best > Chris > > > Sent from my iPhone From austin.healey at gmail.com Mon Apr 16 19:25:42 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 11:25:42 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> Message-ID: Tom, Not an easy question to answer, but someone may know. All i can tell you is on your Lucas vacuum advance, it has 3 numbers e.g. 5 - 12 - 8 That indicates that the vacuum advance will start to operate when vacuum is enough to raise mercury 5 inches, will stop when mercury has been raised 12 inches, and will have advanced the ignition by 8 degrees. I don't have a vacuum advance so I've never attempted to test one (other than the old "suck the end and see if it moves" test for a split diaphragm) Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 17/04/2012, at 6:28 AM, Tom wrote: > If you put a vacuum gauge on the distributor advance, how much vacuum > should you see when the throttle plate is closed, and when the throttle > plate is partially opened? > > - Tom > > On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 2:18 PM, I Erbs wrote: > >> I was having advance issues with my 60 year old dizzy. Typical Lucas ;-) >> I'm converting to a new petronics dizzy. Have not refired the car yet. I >> had to take a break from resto to earn a living. Hope to have her running >> soon. I love the look of the oem dizzy, so if yours is in good order and >> you want modern spark ,convert the top bits and keep a set of points/ >> condensor in the boot. >> >> Ira From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Mon Apr 16 20:26:28 2012 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 02:26:28 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?bugeye?= Message-ID: <20120417022628.2136.qmail@server278.com> jonas and i are going to help a club member with a bugeye change a leaking axle seal shortly. is there anything we should know that might get us in trouble since i have never worked on a bugeye. we have a manual; just looking for things that might trip us up or some shortcuts. hjim From agrossman at pacific.net Mon Apr 16 21:01:32 2012 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 20:01:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thoughts on starters Message-ID: Hi, Sounds like my starter is dying. Usually cranks well in the garage, but seems to get really sluggish and intermittent the more it warms up. I plan to look at all the connections tomorrow. In the meantime wondering if I should go for a rebuilt stock starter, or an aftermarket high torque,, lightweight unit. Thanks, Alan From ynotink at msn.com Mon Apr 16 21:43:27 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 03:43:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Camera In-Reply-To: <4F8CBFE7.2080506@bradakis.com> References: <4F8CBFE7.2080506@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Even worse, I was on a job site taking pictures last week when a Ghost Squadron B-25 went over my head on takeoff at about 2,000 feet and full takeoff power. Helluva racket... I just stood there staring with my chin on my chest and forgot the camera entirely. I probably won't get another chance at that picture... Bill Lawrence > Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 18:57:11 -0600 > From: mark at bradakis.com > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: [Healeys] Camera > > I've got to start taking my camera to work. Had a very nice looking > BJ8 come in today, maybe fuel delivery issues, we shall see. But if > I start taking pictures of the nicer cars I work on I will need to get the > forums fixed so I can post pics there. It's always something. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Apr 17 00:52:04 2012 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 17 Apr 2012 08:52:04 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Message-ID: Hi Alan, who or where did you get this info (frying 123s) from? Eric ... Getting a new EI dizzy like the 123 or Pertonix Flamethrower is great, but risky if it fries on the road which it is known to happen especially with the 123s. Then you'd have to carry a spare dizzy (like I do in my A90). ... Alan From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Apr 17 00:57:10 2012 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 17 Apr 2012 08:57:10 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Message-ID: Hi Derek, good point. That's exactly what I tell our customers. Some understand, some don't. Eric ... It's wrong to compare a Pertronics fitted to a worn out, no idea of the advance curve Lucas wobbly 100,000 mile old distributor to a new 123 Ignotion distributor. ... From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Apr 17 01:43:15 2012 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 17 Apr 2012 09:43:15 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 Message-ID: Kees is quite right here, except for the resistance. It should be at least 1 Ohm when operating a 123. We've made very good experience with 1.5 Ohms for 6 cylinder engines/high revving 4 cyl. engines and 3 Ohms for other 4 cyl. engines. Eric Brits 'n' Pieces (Germany) ... The 123 ignition has the advantage of an adjustable advance curve. There are many options to choose from. As with most electronic ingnition check the coil (plus resistor or resitor wire) is 3 Ohms or more unless stated otherwise. This system is very robust and rarely gives any trouble. if connected up properly. Kees Oudesluijs .... From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Apr 17 01:52:16 2012 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 17 Apr 2012 09:52:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 Message-ID: Ira, or have your original distributor reconditioned and converted to 123. This gives you the advantages of having the look of the oem dizzy without having to carry a set of points/condensor in the boot. Eric Brits 'n' Pieces (Germany) ... I love the look of the oem dizzy, so if yours is in good order and you want modern spark ,convert the top bits and keep a set of points/ condensor in the boot. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Apr 17 01:57:26 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 09:57:26 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 In-Reply-To: <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> References: <4F8C4A4D.4020808@chello.nl> <8CEEA3AB856883A-1D08-2E5FD@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F8D2266.1090600@chello.nl> Gary, It is often forgotten that the advance curve of original mechanical distributors in seemingly good condition is not correct any more because of tired springs. Also the factory advance curve is an average curve to make do under all circumstances, style of driving, fuel, hight, variations in the combustion process of every individual car etc. Anyway you just have to wait and see if an "original" replacement or rebuilt unit has the correct curve. You will be surprised how many are incorrect. You do not always need a dyno. One can experiment oneself with a electronic distributor ( e.g. the Ignition 123) on the road to find the curve that best suits you and the car. Kees Oudesluijs NL > I fail to see the "advantage" of an adjustable advance curve over the > advance curve engineered by the factory. > How in the world would the average Healey owner without access to a > dyno & other equipment determine if he has adjusted the advance curve > correctly. Do the instructions that come with this distributor shed > some light of this? From a practical point of view how much room for > "improvement" is there when compared to the original advance curve? > Gary Hodson > The 123 ignition has the advantage of an adjustable advance curve. > > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4940 - datum van uitgifte: > 04/16/12 From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Apr 17 02:03:56 2012 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 17 Apr 2012 10:03:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? Message-ID: Hi Chris, what do you mean by 'it will do exactly the opposite to what a Lucas/ Healey distributor vacuum advance is designed to do'? It will not operate to retard the ignition timing. It will advance the ignition timing nearly the same amount when the throttle is not closed. The only difference is when the throttle is closed, when ported vacuum doesn't result in ignition advance while manifold vacuum will do. The 123 compensates for this, making it compatible to ported AND manifold vacuum. Eric Brits 'n' Pieces (Germany) ... My comment was that I have no idea what "type" of vacuum a replacement/ aftermarket distributor (Mallory, 123 ignition) distributor requires. Are they designed to use manifold vacuum, or "ported vacuum"? Again, I don't know. But I'd work it out before I just plugged it in. Why did i raise this? Because I do know that if you connect the vacuum to the 'wrong' point - e.g if you connect a standard Lucas Healey distributor vacuum line to the manifold of a Healey it will do exactly the opposite to what a Lucas/ Healey distributor vacuum advance is designed to do. Same if you connect a distributor that has vacuum advance designed for manifold vacuum, and you connect it to the ported vacuum. Hence the weber comment. How many webered Healeys have you seen with a vacuum line from a Healey/ lucas distributor connected to the manifold? I've seen a few. It won't work. It will provide the vacuum operated advance at the wrong time. It will advance the ignition when the engine doesn't want, or need, extra ignition advance. Best. Chris Sent from my iPhone From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Tue Apr 17 02:13:33 2012 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 17 Apr 2012 10:13:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors - 67 BJ8 Message-ID: Hi Chris, you're dead-on. I second your thoughts 100%. Setting up the 123 without dyno will probably not give you the optimum, but in most cases a much better running engine. Eric Brits 'n' Pieces (Germany) Hi Gary, After a 100,000 miles or so, without having been rebuilt, any distributor (Lucas or not) will not be operating at the original factory advance curve settings. Especially a Lucas, which wears without regular lubrication, and where most of the advance characteristics are determined by 2 little springs and a cam..... Our problem is compounded by the fact that our cars, when they were built, were specified (look in your owners handbook) to run with high octane leaded fuel - which isn't available to most people in the world in 2012. So the issue is that no one with a non rebuilt, and non regraphed distributor is actually running the factory engineered advance curve; and in 2012, with current fuel, and changes made over the last 50 years or so to our cars (different cam? Rebored? Lightened flywheel? Ported head and bigger valves?) it probably isn't the correct advance curve for your current engine setup running current fuel.... I can see the advantage, but I don't have a 123 distributor, so I can't comment on how you set it up, or how you change it. Best Chris From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Tue Apr 17 04:47:24 2012 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick and Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:47:24 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. Message-ID: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> G'day How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- 8615554.html Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Sydney, Australia From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 04:54:28 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:54:28 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <567343DC-05DF-4910-B16D-653558152664@gmail.com> It's not even half a Healey!! It's just a He. ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 17/04/2012, at 8:47 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" wrote: > G'day > > How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. > > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- > 8615554.html > > Hoo Roo From bluehealey at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 05:45:43 2012 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Blue Healey) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 12:45:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Thoughts on starters In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Alan There is nothing fundamentally wrong with a starter motor that can consistently perform its job for over 50 years. The new hi-torque jobs do an excellent job but will they last that long? Spend your money on ensuring you have clean and tight earth connections and if necessary replace the long cable from battery to solenoid with welders low-loss cable. Finally an exchange, standard Lucas starter if all else fails should see you right for another 50 years. >From a personal perspective - just my two cents - those crappy jap hi-torques sound just WRONG too! _____________________________________________ (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) http://tinyurl.com/healeyforum -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Grossman Sent: 17 April 2012 04:02 To: Healey Subject: [Healeys] Thoughts on starters Hi, Sounds like my starter is dying. Usually cranks well in the garage, but seems to get really sluggish and intermittent the more it warms up. I plan to look at all the connections tomorrow. In the meantime wondering if I should go for a rebuilt stock starter, or an aftermarket high torque,, lightweight unit. Thanks, Alan From varley at cosmos.net.au Tue Apr 17 05:42:01 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:42:01 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: <567343DC-05DF-4910-B16D-653558152664@gmail.com> References: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> <567343DC-05DF-4910-B16D-653558152664@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F8D5709.7000200@cosmos.net.au> Well! My Mk1 did break in two on the way here, but at least I got both bits for a lot less money than that :) Cheers Larry On 17/04/2012 8:54 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > It's not even half a Healey!! > It's just a He. > ;-) > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 17/04/2012, at 8:47 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" > wrote: > >> G'day >> >> How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. >> >> > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- >> 8615554.html >> >> Hoo Roo > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au From mkgoodman at att.net Tue Apr 17 06:00:58 2012 From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 08:00:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Starter Message-ID: <000c01cd1c91$c11d2200$43576600$@net> Dear Alan, I had the same issue with my starter, where it would not work well when it was hot. I put in a gear reduction starter and it works so well and does not draw as much current. I highly recommend you purchase one. I got mine from a gentleman that lives on Long Island and it was less than $200.00. I think he markets them on Ebay. Also look at John Sims website: http://www.healey6.com He has a wealth of information there. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Apr 17 06:08:43 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 05:08:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: <4F8D5709.7000200@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <1334664523.4149.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Understatement of the year goes to: "Needs complete restoration." Gullwing seems to have a knack for finding knackered cars. I know they sent out a general mailing to AH club members a few years ago looking for cars so he's apparently works hard in keeping up stock. I'm kind of surprised there's still that many unrestored cars still out there. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 4/17/12, Larry Varley wrote: From: Larry Varley Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 17, 2012, 7:42 AM Well! My Mk1 did break in two on the way here, but at least I got both bits for a lot less money than that :) Cheers Larry On 17/04/2012 8:54 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > It's not even half a Healey!! > It's just a He. > ;-) > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 17/04/2012, at 8:47 PM, "Patrick and Caroline Quinn" > wrote: > >> G'day >> >> How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. >> >> > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- >> 8615554.html >> >> Hoo Roo > _______________________________________________ From pjarrett14 at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 06:29:11 2012 From: pjarrett14 at gmail.com (Phil Jarrett) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 08:29:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Which electronic ignition? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello, I have the A123 in my sprite. I have used this distributor for at least 3 years 4-5 thousand miles each year it works perfectly. Tech support is good, I had several question and email exchange was quick and I did also talk with the Canadian engineer who was involved in the design. I tried multiple curves and must admit it was difficult to get the best curve. I still plan to rent a rolling dyno and test. In the next 3 months I will be building a 29f motor and the 123 distributor is on my short list. Cheers Phil Sent from my iPhone On 2012-04-17, at 2:52, "lists" wrote: > Hi Alan, > > who or where did you get this info (frying 123s) from? > > Eric > > ... > Getting a new EI dizzy like the 123 or Pertonix Flamethrower is great, but > risky if it fries on the road which it is known to happen especially with the > 123s. Then you'd have to carry a spare dizzy (like I do in my A90). > ... > Alan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pjarrett14 at gmail.com From agrossman at pacific.net Tue Apr 17 07:20:13 2012 From: agrossman at pacific.net (Alan Grossman) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 06:20:13 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Starter In-Reply-To: <000c01cd1c91$c11d2200$43576600$@net> References: <000c01cd1c91$c11d2200$43576600$@net> Message-ID: Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond. Looks pretty evenly split so far. Best, Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Goodman To: agrossman at pacific.net Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:00 AM Subject: Starter Dear Alan, I had the same issue with my starter, where it would not work well when it was hot. I put in a gear reduction starter and it works so well and does not draw as much current. I highly recommend you purchase one. I got mine from a gentleman that lives on Long Island and it was less than $200.00. I think he markets them on Ebay. Also look at John Sims website: http://www.healey6.com He has a wealth of information there. Mark Goodman 66 BJ8 35503 www.austinhealeyessence.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 07:55:14 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 14:55:14 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Thoughts on starters In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Fair comments Alan. I upgraded to a hi-torque starter and while it does the job really well I have to agree with you that they don't sound right. Derek www.healeysix On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 12:45 PM, Blue Healey wrote: > Hi Alan > There is nothing fundamentally wrong with a starter motor that can > consistently perform its job for over 50 years. The new hi-torque jobs do > an > excellent job but will they last that long? > > Spend your money on ensuring you have clean and tight earth connections and > if necessary replace the long cable from battery to solenoid with welders > low-loss cable. Finally an exchange, standard Lucas starter if all else > fails should see you right for another 50 years. > > From a personal perspective - just my two cents - those crappy jap > hi-torques sound just WRONG too! > _____________________________________________ > (______________ Alan Bromfield _______________) > (______ \____1957-BN4____/ _______) > (_________________________) > http://tinyurl.com/healeyforum > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto: > healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Alan Grossman > Sent: 17 April 2012 04:02 > To: Healey > Subject: [Healeys] Thoughts on starters > > Hi, > Sounds like my starter is dying. Usually cranks well in the garage, but > seems to get really sluggish and intermittent the more it warms up. I plan > to look at all the connections tomorrow. In the meantime wondering if I > should go for a rebuilt stock starter, or an aftermarket high torque,, > lightweight unit. > > Thanks, Alan > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 09:07:45 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 11:07:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] bugeye In-Reply-To: <20120417022628.2136.qmail@server278.com> References: <20120417022628.2136.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: I assume you are talking about the lip seal that mounts inside the rear axle hub. When you remove the hub check the machined surface of the axle stub upon which the seal rides and if there is any irregularity whether due to pitting, gouges, wear etc. I would recommend that you buy redi-sleeves that will renew the surface and give you a good seal. My Elva Courier shares the same axle housing with a spridget, though 4" wider, and I use CarQuest seal #47348 along with redi-sleeve #99175. The sleeves come with a metal pressing tool but it is not long enough and you'll have to fashion one up--I use a PVC pipe union which picks up the flared skirt of the sleeve. Be sure to cut a notch in the sleeve skirt before pressing it on to aid in its removal once you get the seal positioned. Since the lip seal is splash lubed by the diff put some grease on the lip seal so that it will not be running dry when you first run the car. Best--Michael Oritt On Mon, Apr 16, 2012 at 10:26 PM, wrote: > jonas and i are going to help a club member with a bugeye change a leaking > axle seal shortly. is there anything we should know that might get us in > trouble since i have never worked on a bugeye. we have a manual; just > looking for things that might trip us up or some shortcuts. hjim > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 10:41:46 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 02:41:46 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] bugeye In-Reply-To: <20120417022628.2136.qmail@server278.com> References: <20120417022628.2136.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: Jim, It's just a smaller version of a C series. The only issue is that some A series vehicles were designed with the oil filler in the banjo (and those diff pumpkins don't have a filler plug in them); and some cars with A series rear ends had the oil filler in the pumpkin (and no oil filler in the banjo). After 50 plus years, where diff ratios have been changed between early & late sprites & morris minors & A30's etc, and due to this easy interchangeability and range of ratios, it's theoretically possible to find a car with no oil filler hole..... Or a car with two oil filler holes (banjo & pumpkin). Happened to a mate of mine.. No oil filler plug. >From that point on, I made a point of always rebuilding diffs into pumpkins with the oil filler hole, whether the car had a filler plug or not. If you do end up with a car with no oil filler plugs, drop one side on the ground, jack the other side up higher, and pour the required volume of oil in via the axle tube before you insert the last axle..... Also, remove and clean the oil breather on the banjo..... It's the major cause of a seal failure on a road car rear axle. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 17/04/2012, at 12:26 PM, wrote: > jonas and i are going to help a club member with a bugeye change a leaking axle seal shortly. is there anything we should know that might get us in trouble since i have never worked on a bugeye. we have a manual; just looking for things that might trip us up From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 10:43:54 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 17:43:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: <1334664523.4149.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <4F8D5709.7000200@cosmos.net.au> <1334664523.4149.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Surely you must be able to buy it for Half Price! Derek On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 1:08 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > Understatement of the year goes to: "Needs complete restoration." Gullwing > seems to have a knack for finding knackered cars. I know they sent out a > general mailing to AH club members a few years ago looking for cars so he's > apparently works hard in keeping up stock. I'm kind of surprised there's > still that many unrestored cars still out there. > > Rick > > > Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo > > --- On Tue, 4/17/12, Larry Varley wrote: > > From: Larry Varley > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing > Motor > Cars. > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Tuesday, April 17, 2012, 7:42 AM > > Well! My Mk1 did break in two on the way here, but at least I got both > bits for a lot less money than that :) > Cheers > Larry > > On 17/04/2012 8:54 PM, Chris Dimmock wrote: > > It's not even half a Healey!! > > It's just a He. > > ;-) > > Chris > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On 17/04/2012, at 8:47 PM, "Patrick and Caroline > Quinn" > > wrote: > > > >> G'day > >> > >> How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong > gearbox. > >> > >> > > > > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- > >> 8615554.html > >> > >> Hoo Roo > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From Editorgary at aol.com Tue Apr 17 10:48:48 2012 From: Editorgary at aol.com (Editorgary at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 12:48:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Cars Wanted dealers Message-ID: <29be6.34c7c23c.3cbef8f0@aol.com> In a message dated 4/17/12 9:43:18 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net writes: > > Understatement of the year goes to: "Needs complete restoration." > Gullwing > seems to have a knack for finding knackered cars. I know they sent out a > general mailing to AH club members a few years ago looking for cars so > he's > apparently works hard in keeping up stock. I'm kind of surprised there's > still that many unrestored cars still out there. > > Rick > You have to understand how their business works. They're out there hunting continuously for cars that they can buy cheap, clean up quickly, do minimum necessary to get them to start and run, then sell as if they were freshly restored. They have to play the percentages, and occasionally they get one that isn't even that good. So at that point they cut their losses and sell it on as "needs restoration" because no one can get upset with them for that none-claim. But generally, if a used car dealer (what these guys really are) says that car isn't ready for prime time, it's because it really is a horribly bad example that at least rolls enough to pull or be pushed on to a trailer for shipment. G. From derek.c.job at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 14:27:48 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:27:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey! Message-ID: Hi all. Today I took delivery of another Healey and just completed a great 120 mile drive home in it. Inevitably it's a 100-Six, however this one has a MkIII engine built by Jeremy Welch with a DWR8 fast road cam, Cosworth forged 84mm pistons and a few other tweeks. It's running on twin HD8's. It has a centre change box, with straight cut Tulip ratio gears, competition overdrive, and Quaife limited slip diff all put together by Hardy Engineering. It has an aluminium bonnet and boot and is Healey Blue with a white Works hard top. It's still running with points in the Dizzy hence my questions of yesterday. I'm planning on competing in the Healey Sprint and Hillclimb challenge and I'll post some photos of the car on my website as soon as I get chance. That means my other 100-Six is now for sale. It's a great car and also has a 3000 engine but not Mk111. It's in the UK and if anyone knows of someone looking for a good car please let me know. It's history can be seen here: http://www.healeysix.net/mynew100six.htm The new car is running strong and is pretty quick and the steering is as light as Ive driven in a Healey. it's running on Avon ZZs. It hasn't done many miles since the engine was built and only about a 1000 in the last year. It probably needs a bit of a tune up as it's a bit reluctant to idle. Anyone got experience of the DWR8 cam? Is that normal? Derek www.healeysix.net From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Tue Apr 17 14:56:16 2012 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 06:56:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] bugeye In-Reply-To: References: <20120417022628.2136.qmail@server278.com> Message-ID: <3CD4D6C827CE4DEA86690ED2DBCFFEE4@Notebook> Happens with 100s too - both my 100s have 3.54 diffs, and both had no oil filler (although the Ward Special has had one put in the casing) the V6 car I fill through the breather! Cheers Peter -----Original Message----- From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2012 2:41 AM To: healeymanjim at hansencc.net ; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] bugeye Jim, It's just a smaller version of a C series. The only issue is that some A series vehicles were designed with the oil filler in the banjo (and those diff pumpkins don't have a filler plug in them); and some cars with A series rear ends had the oil filler in the pumpkin (and no oil filler in the banjo). From eandy01 at msn.com Tue Apr 17 16:38:38 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:38:38 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] cc capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm not bad on calculating until it gets to this. What would a 60 over bore on a 2912 cc engine result in in cc's(don't know where a decimal point or 00s go) ? From ktee20 at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 16:40:55 2012 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 08:40:55 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: The other half is in the background poor marketing in leaving it out of the picture gallery ...............The control head looks recoverable Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ On 17 April 2012 20:47, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > G'day > > How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. > > > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- > 8615554.html > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ktee20 at gmail.com From richard.ewald at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 17:08:52 2012 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 16:08:52 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> References: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: I want to know if the pallet and pallet jack come with the car. That would have a serious effect on how much I would be willing to pay. Rick On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 3:47 AM, Patrick and Caroline Quinn < p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote: > G'day > > How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. > > > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i-used- > 8615554.html > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn From rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com Tue Apr 17 17:11:15 2012 From: rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com (Randy Dickson) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 18:11:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: References: <81F4F0C215D044B3B37211DBB0F021E8@PatrickQuinnPC> Message-ID: <00b501cd1cef$64418770$2cc49650$@midwestarchaeology.com> I was at Gullwing about 10 years ago. They had a AH BN2 for sale. It was red. All of the bodywork and paint was done. It just needed drive train rebuilt, assembly and interior. Oh, plus all new seals, gaskets and perishable parts. But, all of the hard to get parts were supposedly there. The price was $8500. I thought that it was a good deal at the time but the girlfriend (now wife) would have kicked me out on the streets had I dragged another Healey carcass home to work on. Randy Dickson Healey-Archaeologist 63 BJ7 60 BT7 -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of keith taylor Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2012 5:41 PM To: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. The other half is in the background poor marketing in leaving it out of the picture gallery ...............The control head looks recoverable Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ On 17 April 2012 20:47, Patrick and Caroline Quinn wrote: > G'day > > How does a car end up like this? It's even fitted with the wrong gearbox. > > > http://www.gullwingmotorcars.com/detail-1959-austin_healey-3000-mark_i > -used- > 8615554.html > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > Sydney, Australia > _______________________________________________ From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Apr 17 17:14:47 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 16:14:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1334704487.76456.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Looking at the pics more carefully, I just realized this was the long lost Healey Trike prototype. The result of a hush-hush collaboration between the Morgan Motor Co. and the Healey works, it was an attempt to combine the torquey Healey six cylinder with the "entertaining" handling of the Moggie three-wheeler. The prototype had previously been thought destroyed when one of the works apprentices attempted to maneuver it over an open mechanic's pit for an oil change. Unfortunately, the apprentice attempted to approach the pit in reverse gear with predictable results. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Tue, 4/17/12, keith taylor wrote: From: keith taylor Subject: Re: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. To: "healeys" Date: Tuesday, April 17, 2012, 6:40 PM The other half is in the background poor marketing in leaving it out of the picture gallery ...............The control head looks recoverable Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ From cleona44 at hotmail.com Tue Apr 17 18:23:34 2012 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:23:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Derek - CONGRATULATIONS!!!! another 100-Six Does it happen to be a modified Longbridge????? jim > Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:27:48 +0100 > From: derek.c.job at gmail.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey! > > Hi all. > > Today I took delivery of another Healey and just completed a great 120 mile > drive home in it. Inevitably it's a 100-Six, however this one has a MkIII > engine built by Jeremy Welch with a DWR8 fast road cam, Cosworth forged > 84mm pistons and a few other tweeks. It's running on twin HD8's. It has a > centre change box, with straight cut Tulip ratio gears, competition > overdrive, and Quaife limited slip diff all put together by Hardy > Engineering. > > It has an aluminium bonnet and boot and is Healey Blue with a white Works > hard top. It's still running with points in the Dizzy hence my questions of > yesterday. I'm planning on competing in the Healey Sprint and Hillclimb > challenge and I'll post some photos of the car on my website as soon as I > get chance. > > That means my other 100-Six is now for sale. It's a great car and also has > a 3000 engine but not Mk111. It's in the UK and if anyone knows of someone > looking for a good car please let me know. It's history can be seen here: > > http://www.healeysix.net/mynew100six.htm > > The new car is running strong and is pretty quick and the steering is as > light as Ive driven in a Healey. it's running on Avon ZZs. It hasn't done > many miles since the engine was built and only about a 1000 in the last > year. It probably needs a bit of a tune up as it's a bit reluctant to idle. > Anyone got experience of the DWR8 cam? Is that normal? > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From ahpowered at hotmail.com Tue Apr 17 20:24:55 2012 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 21:24:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 1959 Used Austin Healey 3000 Mark I at Gullwing Motor Cars. In-Reply-To: References: <4F8D5709.7000200@cosmos.net.au>, <1334664523.4149.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: The rear end of the car was beautifully restored and was just sold on Ebay. Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From Healey100M at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 20:52:12 2012 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 22:52:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] eBay 100 Valve Cover Message-ID: <5CB0FEC5-40EA-43CB-8BC6-4CEB8C9E26AD@gmail.com> Did anyone see the period finned aluminum 100 valve cover that just sold on ebay? Very rough condition with no filler cap or cover turned knobs. Sold for $1295.00!!!! I have incredible docs on my Florida Green/OEW 100M, and just looked up the receipt for the same one the original owner put on 1 month after purchased. $23.95 Cash! Gotta love it!!!! :-) Randy Randy Hicks www.austinhealey100m.com '56 100 M White/Black '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (SOLD) '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop '65 BJ8 '53 MGTD Healey100M at gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 17 21:17:38 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 17 Apr 2012 20:17:38 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] eBay 100 Valve Cover In-Reply-To: <5CB0FEC5-40EA-43CB-8BC6-4CEB8C9E26AD@gmail.com> References: <5CB0FEC5-40EA-43CB-8BC6-4CEB8C9E26AD@gmail.com> Message-ID: Wo.fee if the eBay buyer bid on one of Gary's $500.00 books? Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR Coming Thursday on the Holocaust Memorial Day - WWW WW)WWW (Yom HaShoah) we will remember all who perished. On Apr 17, 2012 7:52 PM, "Randy Hicks" wrote: > Did anyone see the period finned aluminum 100 valve cover that just sold on > ebay? > > Very rough condition with no filler cap or cover turned knobs. Sold for > $1295.00!!!! > > I have incredible docs on my Florida Green/OEW 100M, and just looked up the > receipt for the same one the original owner put on 1 month after purchased. > > $23.95 Cash! Gotta love it!!!! :-) > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > www.austinhealey100m.com > '56 100 M White/Black > '56 100 M Florida Green/OEW > '55 BN1 Dealer Le Mans (SOLD) > '62 BN7 MkII with factory hardtop > '65 BJ8 > '53 MGTD > Healey100M at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From jarowe at westnet.com.au Tue Apr 17 21:46:36 2012 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 13:46:36 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BJ7 vs BJ8 interior Message-ID: <278CDD95710C4451927700FF27D4467A@AMRNETBOOK> Hi Folks I am away from home at present and therefore missing my Healey reference books. Could someone remind me of the difference in the B pillar trim between a BJ7 and very early BJ8 and then a later BJ8 before the new chassis came in. I'm presently considering my options and as I'm a tall fellow I'm trying to get as much leg room as possible. I know it won't be a much as my BT7 but every inch counts. Regards John Rowe Perth Aus presently in steamy tropical Cairns. From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Wed Apr 18 00:41:32 2012 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 08:41:32 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Just acquired another Healey! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Derek, It should idle just as good as a standard engine. You do have to give it a tune up. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com 17 apr 2012 kl. 22:27 skrev Derek Job: > Hi all. > > Today I took delivery of another Healey and just completed a great 120 mile > drive home in it. Inevitably it's a 100-Six, however this one has a MkIII > engine built by Jeremy Welch with a DWR8 fast road cam, Cosworth forged > 84mm pistons and a few other tweeks. It's running on twin HD8's. It has a > centre change box, with straight cut Tulip ratio gears, competition > overdrive, and Quaife limited slip diff all put together by Hardy > Engineering. > > It has an aluminium bonnet and boot and is Healey Blue with a white Works > hard top. It's still running with points in the Dizzy hence my questions of > yesterday. I'm planning on competing in the Healey Sprint and Hillclimb > challenge and I'll post some photos of the car on my website as soon as I > get chance. > > That means my other 100-Six is now for sale. It's a great car and also has > a 3000 engine but not Mk111. It's in the UK and if anyone knows of someone > looking for a good car please let me know. It's history can be seen here: > > http://www.healeysix.net/mynew100six.htm > > The new car is running strong and is pretty quick and the steering is as > light as Ive driven in a Healey. it's running on Avon ZZs. It hasn't done > many miles since the engine was built and only about a 1000 in the last > year. It probably needs a bit of a tune up as it's a bit reluctant to idle. > Anyone got experience of the DWR8 cam? Is that normal? > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ From jwhlyadv at aol.com Wed Apr 18 05:03:43 2012 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 07:03:43 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Conclave Louisville Message-ID: <8CEEB6A0D6F3ABC-1E68-2D72E@webmail-m092.sysops.aol.com> Conclave Louisville is fast approaching 200 registrations with sixty days to go! Be number 200 and win a free Conclave Beer Stein!! Visit http://www.2012conclave.com/ and register today! Jim Werner Louisville, KY From michaelsalter at gmail.com Wed Apr 18 06:21:12 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 08:21:12 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] cc capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: OK,,,,pi times radius squared times stroke times 6 = 3.141592653589793 x (3.361/2)squared x 3.5 x 6 = 186.3143050975086 cu. in x 16.367064 = 3,049.418155646449 c.c. approx -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 6:38 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON wrote: > I'm not bad on calculating until it gets to this. What would a 60 over > bore on > a 2912 cc engine result in in cc's(don't know where a decimal point or 00s > go) > ? From Healey100M at gmail.com Wed Apr 18 06:48:19 2012 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 08:48:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BaT - Austin Healey Mark 1 For Sale - Stored 41 years Message-ID: http://bringatrailer.com/2012/04/17/bat-exclusive-41-years-parked-1960-austin -healey-3000/#more- A project for someone! Randy From ktee20 at gmail.com Wed Apr 18 15:25:32 2012 From: ktee20 at gmail.com (keith taylor) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 07:25:32 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] cc capacity In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I guess near enough is good enough Keith Taylor WAMBERAL OZ On 18 April 2012 22:21, Michael Salter wrote: > OK,,,,pi times radius squared times stroke times 6 = 3.141592653589793 x > (3.361/2)squared x 3.5 x 6 = 186.3143050975086 cu. in x 16.367064 = > 3,049.418155646449 c.c. approx > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > > On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 6:38 PM, EDWARD ANDERSON wrote: > > > I'm not bad on calculating until it gets to this. What would a 60 over > > bore on > > a 2912 cc engine result in in cc's(don't know where a decimal point or > 00s > > go) > > ? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ktee20 at gmail.com From healeyguy at bredband.net Wed Apr 18 16:33:24 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 00:33:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Vacuum advance (was Which electronic ignition?) In-Reply-To: <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F8F4134.8060405@bredband.net> Chris I checked on my car, a standard 3000 mk2 with three HS4 carbs, and there is very little vacuum at idle, and when I give it some throttle it seems the vacuum goes away. As I recall, vacuum has been stronger on other cars I have checked. You say that these vacuums are opposites of each other, I fail to understand this. Can you elaborate this a little, please. As I understand it we need some ignition advance at idle, because the mix is weak and takes a long time to burn, this is accomplished with the vacuum advance. And we need a some advance at high revs because the pistons travel very fast and the spark must ignite the load some time (degrees) before TDC to make useful work, this is accomplished with the weights and springs. What we don't need is ignition advance at low engine speed and open throttle, because that will cause detonation and nasty things will eventually happen. As the vacuum in my car is quite weak I wonder if the Healey distributor vacuum thing is more sensitive than on "normal" cars? Best regards, Per in Sweden Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-16 18:18: > Fair call John. > A Lucas healey distributor uses ported vacuum. Which is an SU thing. Vacuum is > taken at the throttle plate. Not the inlet manifold. > These - ported vacuum and manifold vacuum - are exact opposite vacuums. > Opposite. > That's why you never connect a std Healey Lucas distributor vacuum advance to > a manifold vacuum port on eg a triple weber Healey. From blkbt7 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 18 17:08:45 2012 From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:08:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 Message-ID: <1334790525.33953.YahooMailRC@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8 Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for them last night. Just an FYI. From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 18 17:28:56 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:28:56 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Vacuum advance (was Which electronic ignition?) In-Reply-To: <4F8F4134.8060405@bredband.net> References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> <4F8F4134.8060405@bredband.net> Message-ID: <858120B9-1B64-4E4C-B621-B78C15645A16@gmail.com> Hi Per, That's correct. Sort of. Healeys generally get all their advance at idle mechanically, not by vacuum. Is your vacuum connected to the Su or manifold?? Not sure specifically about a tri carb setup. Perhaps I should have said the difference is "opposite" at idle. At the throttle plate, at idle, there is hardly any vacuum. That's "ported vacuum" - and that's what a Healey distributor is generally set up for. At the manifold however, at idle, there is pretty much full vacuum. As I said before, the most common 6 Healey vacuum profile is 5 - 12 - 8 When mercury is raised 5 inches by vacuum, the vacuum advance starts, and by the time mercury has been raised 12 inches, an additional 8 degrees of advance will have been delivered. So if you connect your distributor vacuum pipe to the manifold, instead of to the SU, what will happen at idle?? You'll get an extra 8 degrees of advance. At idle. And what happens when you give your engine an extra 8 degrees advance at idle? It doesn't idle very low, and may even ping. When you are cruising at 3,500 Rpm or whatever on light throttle, then there is high vacuum at the SU port, the vacuum advance provides more advance to fully burn the fuel = economy and smog reduction. At full throttle, vacuum is almost equal at manifold and SU vacuum port i.e low vacuum = no vacuum advance. Part of the clue that a Healey doesn't want more ignition advance at idle is that it doesn't even operate below 5. I only used 5 - 12 - 8 as an example, as its common on Healeys Look on your vacuum advance to see what you have. Hope that makes sense. Best Chris Sent from my iPhone On 19/04/2012, at 8:33 AM, Per Schoerner wrote: > Chris > I checked on my car, a standard 3000 mk2 with three HS4 carbs, and there is very little vacuum at idle, and when I give it some throttle it seems the vacuum goes away. As I recall, vacuum has been stronger on other cars I have checked. > You say that these vacuums are opposites of each other, I fail to understand this. Can you elaborate this a little, please. > > > Best regards, Per in Sweden > > > Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-16 18:18: >> Fair call John. >> A Lucas healey distributor uses ported vacuum. Which is an SU thing. Vacuum is >> taken at the throttle plate. Not the inlet manifold. >> These - ported vacuum and manifold vacuum - are exact opposite vacuums. >> Opposite. From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 18 17:50:20 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:50:20 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update In-Reply-To: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I am very impressed with the metal work you have done to save some very rusted healeys! BTW, I have a few buckets of rusted healey bolts, some rusted metal panels that I cut out along with some frame parts. They will all fit in a 4'x4'x4' box. I will send them to you so you can build another healey. :-) Cheers, John At 06:05 PM 4/9/2012 +1000, Larry Varley wrote: >Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my >website. While the panels are away, I'm busily working out parts I >need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming >in very handy................ > http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html >Cheers >Larry Varley From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Apr 18 19:15:03 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 18:15:03 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F8F6717.4040401@comcast.net> Great idea! I'll bet we have enough spare parts between us all to build at least one BNTJ124678-4/6/3000 MKX Phase 0 ('X' for Experimental, of course). What's your address, Larry? Bob On 4/18/2012 4:50 PM, john spaur wrote: > I am very impressed with the metal work you have done to save some very rusted healeys! > > BTW, I have a few buckets of rusted healey bolts, some rusted metal panels that I cut out along with some frame parts. > They will all fit in a 4'x4'x4' box. I will send them to you so you can build another healey. :-) > > Cheers, > John > > At 06:05 PM 4/9/2012 +1000, Larry Varley wrote: >> Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my website. While the panels are away, I'm busily >> working out parts I need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming in very handy................ >> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html >> Cheers >> Larry Varley > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From shepherd at tconl.com Wed Apr 18 19:28:24 2012 From: shepherd at tconl.com (Steve Shepherd) Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 20:28:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS Message-ID: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Wed Apr 18 20:39:51 2012 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> Message-ID: <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> Hi Steve One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update Cyril, No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! Best, Dan Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz -----Original Message----- From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? From varley at cosmos.net.au Thu Apr 19 01:33:07 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 17:33:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F8FBFB3.2040003@cosmos.net.au> Hi John, I'll take you up on that, just make sure you include the body number plates :) And Bob with a number like that ( I especially like the X at the end ) were talking a new all time record Healey auction price! Move over NOJ. It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 and it was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a car and ended up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin anyway. At the $20,000.00 level I will have the remains and a brand new Kilmartin frame with the extra stiffening web in the centre of the rails, fitted with new bulkheads. If you have to replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it cost any more to replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that is 50 years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim when your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less expensive to rebuild than a totally seized engine? One the down side on this car is the level of corrosion on mechanical components, I'll post some images soon, but it's quite amazing. Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not expensive. Anyway, it's all good fun Cheers Larry On 19/04/2012 9:50 AM, john spaur wrote: > I am very impressed with the metal work you have done to save some > very rusted healeys! > > BTW, I have a few buckets of rusted healey bolts, some rusted metal > panels that I cut out along with some frame parts. They will all fit > in a 4'x4'x4' box. I will send them to you so you can build another > healey. :-) > > Cheers, > John > > At 06:05 PM 4/9/2012 +1000, Larry Varley wrote: >> Work is progressing on my BT7, so I have posted a few images on my >> website. While the panels are away, I'm busily working out parts I >> need, and preparing mechanical bits. Sandblaster at work is coming in >> very handy................ >> http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30002.html >> Cheers >> Larry Varley From healey.nut at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 01:58:15 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 15:58:15 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update In-Reply-To: <4F8FBFB3.2040003@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4F8FBFB3.2040003@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: Looks great Larry. Given what you had to work with, you should have converted this into a UTE! Then you'd have something to haul the old chassis to the dump. Alan On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Larry Varley wrote: > Hi John, I'll take you up on that, just make sure you include the body > number plates :) And Bob with a number like that ( I especially like the X > at the end ) were talking a new all time record Healey auction price! Move > over NOJ. > It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 and it > was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a car and ended > up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin anyway. At the $20,000.00 > level I will have the remains and a brand new Kilmartin frame with the > extra stiffening web in the centre of the rails, fitted with new bulkheads. > If you have to replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it cost any > more to replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that is 50 > years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim when > your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less expensive to rebuild > than a totally seized engine? One the down side on this car is the level of > corrosion on mechanical components, I'll post some images soon, but it's > quite amazing. Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not expensive. > Anyway, it's all good fun > Cheers > Larry From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 02:11:50 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:11:50 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tacho not working Message-ID: Hi all Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed the cable and it was working fine. About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again. Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest movement. At least it moved with the old cable. Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced? cheers Derek From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 19 02:26:24 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:26:24 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Tacho not working In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F8FCC30.7070500@chello.nl> As long as mechanical tachs are operated frequently they seem to go on for ever. It is just when they are not in use that the oil starts gumming up and operation gets difficult as you describe. Time for a service. Sometimes you can get away by dipping it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath followed by lubrication with clock oil. If that fails a rebuild is at hand. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 19-4-2012 10:11, Derek Job schreef: > Hi all > > Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car > 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time > with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly > routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed the > cable and it was working fine. > > About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was > sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I > checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached > the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I > reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again. > Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with > stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest > movement. At least it moved with the old cable. > > Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced? > > cheers > > Derek > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4945 - datum van uitgifte: 04/18/12 From varley at cosmos.net.au Thu Apr 19 02:23:59 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 18:23:59 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update In-Reply-To: References: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4F8FBFB3.2040003@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <4F8FCB9F.4080103@cosmos.net.au> Bob, Excellent idea, however I have a ute :) And it hauls Healey parts quite successfully http://www.redbubble.com/people/larryvarley/works/4046568-vanguard http://www.redbubble.com/people/larryvarley/works/5688504-the-mechanic Cheers Larry On 19/04/2012 5:58 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote: > Looks great Larry. Given what you had to work with, you should have > converted this into a UTE! Then you'd have something to haul the old > chassis to the dump. > > Alan > > > > On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Larry Varley > wrote: > > Hi John, I'll take you up on that, just make sure you include the > body number plates :) And Bob with a number like that ( I > especially like the X at the end ) were talking a new all time > record Healey auction price! Move over NOJ. > It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 > and it was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a > car and ended up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin > anyway. At the $20,000.00 level I will have the remains and a > brand new Kilmartin frame with the extra stiffening web in the > centre of the rails, fitted with new bulkheads. If you have to > replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it cost any more to > replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that is 50 > years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim > when your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less > expensive to rebuild than a totally seized engine? One the down > side on this car is the level of corrosion on mechanical > components, I'll post some images soon, but it's quite amazing. > Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not expensive. > Anyway, it's all good fun > Cheers > Larry From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 03:26:22 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 10:26:22 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tacho not working In-Reply-To: <4F8FCC30.7070500@chello.nl> References: <4F8FCC30.7070500@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees Thats probably whats happened, the car has had only intermittant use in the last two years and was stored from September to early march. Derek On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 9:26 AM, Oudesluys wrote: > > As long as mechanical tachs are operated frequently they seem to go on for > ever. It is just when they are not in use that the oil starts gumming up > and operation gets difficult as you describe. Time for a service. Sometimes > you can get away by dipping it in an ultrasonic cleaning bath followed by > lubrication with clock oil. If that fails a rebuild is at hand. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > Op 19-4-2012 10:11, Derek Job schreef: > >> Hi all >> >> Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car >> 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time >> with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly >> routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed >> the >> cable and it was working fine. >> >> About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was >> sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I >> checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached >> the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I >> reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again. >> Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with >> stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest >> movement. At least it moved with the old cable. >> >> Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced? >> >> cheers >> >> Derek >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/coudesluijs@**chello.nl >> >> >> >> ----- >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4945 - datum van uitgifte: >> 04/18/12 From sebring at hotkey.net.au Thu Apr 19 05:56:21 2012 From: sebring at hotkey.net.au (Joe and Lenore Armour) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:56:21 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] [Fwd: Re: Healeys on RT 66] Message-ID: <4F8FFD65.3040909@hotkey.net.au> -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:46:34 +1000 From: Joe and Lenore Armour To: Bob Brown References: <1334790525.33953.YahooMailRC at web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bob Brown wrote: >For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving >Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8 >Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in >meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for them >last night. > > >Just an FYI. > > INTERNATIONAL HEALEYS The worldwide exchange of information,opions and visits has certainly grown since the 70s when our esteemed Patrick Quinn and the late Alan 'Sebring' Jones went on a world wide trip primarily to see Healeys and there owners. The fact that Alan's first objective was to steal as many 100.S Healeys back to Australia as he could organise. At that time several cars heavily modified to take V.8 engines existed and this is where Alan was successful. We all know that Patrick then located the BN.3 in UK. Patrick and wife Caroline are still involved and Pat is the Editor for Vintage Race Car Journal, its south pacific editor Along the way many friendships were formed and still exist today. Bill Bolton was instrumental in a group visit of US Healey people to then attend the Australian National Rally taht was held in Melbourne taht year. The tourists then made there way to the Sydney AH club area. At this time there was a lot of billeting of overseas visitors in members homes. Now we have many successful international events and the associated commaradie. Bill Emmerson also visited Australia several times to gather information on the Ex-Works cars that were in Australia and to have his Concourse winning Healey restored by 100.S guru Steve Pike. Joe From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 19 06:44:29 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 05:44:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tacho not working In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F9008AD.5030802@comcast.net> I've done a lot of work on my BJ8's speedometer--the tach is basically a speedometer without the gearing for the odometer and trip meter. You can go through the tach yourself. There is no mystery--the cable rotates a magnet which causes a flanged flat disk to turn ('magnetic coupling') which moves the needle. There are no ball or roller bearings to be concerned about; the cable drives a small shaft--which kinda looks like a little camshaft--to turn the magnet. There is a small watch spring to return the needle to zero. Probably what's happened is whatever lubricant was on the small shaft has dried out and impeded the needle and plate from turning. Worst case is the old/misrouted cable damaged or wore out something. You'll need a jeweler's screwdriver kit ($5-10). Get a clean workbench and I lay down paper towels to keep small bits from escaping. The Anthony Rhodes 'white paper' on speedometers that's been around forever might be helpful. I use 'electronic circuit cleaner' to clean the parts; DO NOT use 'electrical parts cleaner;' it's too harsh. I use a light lithium grease to lubricate the shaft. If anything's busted and you can't find the part then you can button it back up and send it out for service (I'm guessing about $100-200 plus shipping, etc.). Bob On 4/19/2012 1:11 AM, Derek Job wrote: > Hi all > > Have an issue with the tacho on the car I'm selling. When I bought the car > 2 years ago the tacho was working fine. I didn't get to spend much time > with the car but when I finally did I noticed the tacho cable was wrongly > routed which made it very tight and possibly stretching it. I re-routed the > cable and it was working fine. > > About two months ago when I got the car to my house I noticed it was > sticking at 2000 revs sometimes at 3000, anyway not moving freely. I > checked all connections, lubricated and I tested it using a drill attached > the cable but that procedure never got it to move even a tiny bit. When I > reconnected it to the engine it did at least move but got stuck again. > Decided to buy a new cable assuming old one might have been damaged with > stretching etc. Connected it yesterday and nothing, not even the tiniest > movement. At least it moved with the old cable. > > Any ideas? Is it time the tacho was serviced? > > cheers > > Derek > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bighealey at charter.net Thu Apr 19 08:27:17 2012 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 07:27:17 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] SF Bay Area 3.54 gear set installation Message-ID: <000001cd1e38$85ef0b50$91cd21f0$@charter.net> Are there folks who bought a gear set here in the SF bay area? If so perhaps we can consolidate our installs at the same shop in hopes of a small break in install fees. The sets seem to be shipping from Dan Lempert and son and so I personally want to get mine installed in my spare 4.11 pumpkin before rendezvous. After that is done I will also have a spare 3.9 which I would be willing to part with. So if you are in the SF bay area, are receiving a gear set and know of the right shop to install perhaps we should band together. Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Thu Apr 19 09:02:13 2012 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:02:13 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] tire balancing - answer to an old message Message-ID: <001b01cd1e3d$67e435e0$37aca1a0$@mindspring.com> I have that stuff in my motorhome tires. It works fine on large vehicles, can't vouch for car tires though. There is a problem however that you should know: The "beads" can clog the air-inlet-valve, and if they do you'll have a slow leak. The "fix" is to ensure that air flows into the tire the last time you press the little button in the center of the valve stem. This airflow makes the beads or bead dust fall back into the tire. Although I can not remember the name of the new product, there is a liquid version of the same thing that truckers now use. It doesn't have the valve-stem clogging "feature" and is much preferred by those of us with big vehicles. -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 9:52 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] tire balancing Has anybody tried Dyna Beads to overcome balancing problems? I run with tubes in tubeless tires on 70 spokes and can never get the balancing spot on. They claim they work breally wellb in tubes. www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html _______________________________________________ From MBran89793 at aol.com Thu Apr 19 09:51:07 2012 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:51:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Tacho not working Message-ID: <28ab.2098a294.3cc18e6b@aol.com> Bob- Duh. BJ8 tach's are electronically operated not cable driven. Marion Brantley In a message dated 4/19/2012 8:56:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: You can go through the tach yourself. There is no mystery--the cable rotates a magnet which causes a flanged flat disk to turn ('magnetic coupling') which moves the needle. From richchrysler at quickclic.net Thu Apr 19 10:24:09 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:24:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 update In-Reply-To: <4F8FBFB3.2040003@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F829863.1000900@cosmos.net.au> <6.2.3.4.2.20120418164723.021157f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> <4F8FBFB3.2040003@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <001601cd1e48$d94ccca0$8be665e0$@net> I absolutely must agree with Larry's view on resurrecting a car that is so far gone it needs a new chassis frame and virtually no stone can be left unturned. These can be bought cheap so the total initial investment dollars can be very low. Just be prepared to end up with at least the same money in the car by the time it's finished, but you'll know every inch of the car and the quality that's gone into it from beginning to end. Probably the biggest difference here is realizing that as the owner you likely won't have the talent or the time to build up the metal onto the new Kilmartin chassis so be prepared to hand those aspects to the professional shop with the experience to do so, and make sure it's one shop seeing all the metalwork through from beginning to end. Meanwhile, if desired the owner can be involved rebuilding other areas of the car to save some total labour time. Rich -----Original Message----- Subject: Re: [Healeys] BT7 update Larry Varley Wrote: It does raise an interesting point, I bought this car for $2500.00 and it was basically complete. I could have spent $20,000.00 for a car and ended up throwing half of what I paid for in the bin anyway. At the $20,000.00 level I will have the remains and a brand new Kilmartin frame with the extra stiffening web in the centre of the rails, fitted with new bulkheads. If you have to replace the bottom quater of a mudguard, does it cost any more to replace the bottom half? Do I want a chassis in my car that is 50 years old that rusts from the inside out? What use is the old trim when your restoring a car? Is a half worn out engine less expensive to rebuild than a totally seized engine? One the down side on this car is the level of corrosion on mechanical components, I'll post some images soon, but it's quite amazing. Thankfully most of them are easy to get and not expensive. Anyway, it's all good fun Cheers Larry From al at bighealey.org Thu Apr 19 10:30:46 2012 From: al at bighealey.org (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:30:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> Message-ID: <33404fd7-ce24-4ba1-a913-c650b70b9600@email.android.com> Not a word! Al. -- Sent from my 'Droid. Please excuse my brevity. Steve Shepherd wrote: Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/al at bighealey.org From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 19 12:17:22 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 20:17:22 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] tire balancing - answer to an old message In-Reply-To: <001b01cd1e3d$67e435e0$37aca1a0$@mindspring.com> References: <001b01cd1e3d$67e435e0$37aca1a0$@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <4F9056B2.4060008@chello.nl> This has been tried so many times in the past decades or longer. It looks like a very good idea. I have tested several of these in the past years. It has never worked properly. It may relieve some problems slightly but you cannot balance a tire dynamically this way. Kees Oudesluijs NL Op 19-4-2012 17:02, Skip Saunders schreef: > I have that stuff in my motorhome tires. It works fine on large vehicles, > can't vouch for car tires though. There is a problem however that you > should know: The "beads" can clog the air-inlet-valve, and if they do > you'll have a slow leak. The "fix" is to ensure that air flows into the > tire the last time you press the little button in the center of the valve > stem. This airflow makes the beads or bead dust fall back into the tire. > > Although I can not remember the name of the new product, there is a liquid > version of the same thing that truckers now use. It doesn't have the > valve-stem clogging "feature" and is much preferred by those of us with big > vehicles. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] > On Behalf Of Dr. C. Rubino > Sent: Sunday, November 14, 2010 9:52 AM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] tire balancing > > Has anybody tried Dyna Beads to overcome balancing problems? > I run with tubes in tubeless tires on 70 spokes and can never get the > balancing spot on. > They claim they work b really wellb in tubes. > > www.innovativebalancing.com/index.html > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4945 - datum van uitgifte: 04/18/12 From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 12:22:16 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] land rover question Message-ID: Howdy, My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford type unit. Can someone supply a current part #? I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a serious offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky.... Thanks -- Ira Erbs IT CONSULTANT Portland, OR We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them. -Albert Einstein From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu Apr 19 13:48:20 2012 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 05:48:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <-4890900896076652483@unknownmsgid> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> <-4890900896076652483@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: Son of, I believe -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 2:50 AM To: Peter & Veronica Cc: Steve Shepherd ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS Is this Lempert related to Mike Lempert? Michael S On 2012-04-18, at 10:49 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > Hi Steve > > One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: > > Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update > > Cyril, > > No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory > today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping > them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to > me. > > Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! > > Best, > Dan > > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > -----Original Message----- From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19, > 2012 11:28 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we > ordered? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com From Healey100M at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 14:01:38 2012 From: Healey100M at gmail.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:01:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> <-4890900896076652483@unknownmsgid> Message-ID: <3E7325BA-7D04-4433-A718-010022DB34FC@gmail.com> Is Mike still out there building steering wheels? I emailed him a week or 2 ago and never got a response. Randy On Apr 19, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > Son of, I believe > > -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 2:50 AM > To: Peter & Veronica > Cc: Steve Shepherd ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Is this Lempert related to Mike Lempert? > > Michael S > > On 2012-04-18, at 10:49 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > >> Hi Steve >> >> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: >> >> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update >> >> Cyril, >> >> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory >> today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping >> them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. >> >> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! >> >> Best, >> Dan >> >> >> Cheers >> >> Peter Linn >> Brisbane Oz >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS >> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Thu Apr 19 14:18:43 2012 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 13:18:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <3E7325BA-7D04-4433-A718-010022DB34FC@gmail.com> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> <-4890900896076652483@unknownmsgid> <3E7325BA-7D04-4433-A718-010022DB34FC@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1334866723.82043.YahooMailNeo@web161002.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Still has a web site. http://www.pbase.com/mdlempert/wheels He did answer me last August when I was trying to get his son Dan to answer my emails. Ron Mitchell BN7 MkII BN6 ________________________________ From: Randy Hicks To: Peter & Veronica Cc: healeys at autox.team.net; Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 4:01 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS Is Mike still out there building steering wheels? I emailed him a week or 2 ago and never got a response. Randy On Apr 19, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > Son of, I believe > > -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 2:50 AM > To: Peter & Veronica > Cc: Steve Shepherd ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Is this Lempert related to Mike Lempert? > > Michael S > > On 2012-04-18, at 10:49 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote: > >> Hi Steve >> >> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: >> >> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update >> >> Cyril, >> >> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory >> today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping >> them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. >> >> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! >> >> Best, >> Dan >> >> >> Cheers >> >> Peter Linn >> Brisbane Oz >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Steve Shepherd Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS >> Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyron at yahoo.com From ynotink at msn.com Thu Apr 19 19:09:15 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 01:09:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP>, <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> Message-ID: Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel... Bill Lawrence > From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au > To: shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Hi Steve > > One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: > > Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update > > Cyril, > > No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory > today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping > them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. > > Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! > > Best, > Dan > > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Shepherd > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 19:15:47 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:15:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP> <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> Message-ID: I never got mine!!! -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 9:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel... > > Bill Lawrence > > > From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au > > To: shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net > > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000 > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > > > Hi Steve > > > > One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: > > > > Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update > > > > Cyril, > > > > No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the > factory > > today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping > > them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to > me. > > > > Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! > > > > Best, > > Dan > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Peter Linn > > Brisbane Oz > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Steve Shepherd > > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM > > To: healeys at autox.team.net > > Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > > > Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we > ordered? > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com From ynotink at msn.com Thu Apr 19 19:29:51 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 01:29:51 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP>, <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook>, , Message-ID: I think mine was from the second batch. I've been using it for years and can't imagine my car with 4.10s any more. Bill Lawrence Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 21:15:47 -0400 Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS From: michaelsalter at gmail.com To: ynotink at msn.com CC: greylinn at ozemail.com.au; shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net I never got mine!!! -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 9:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel... Bill Lawrence > From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au > To: shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Hi Steve > > One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: > > Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update > > Cyril, > > No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory > today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping > them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. > > Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! > > Best, > Dan > > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Shepherd > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:28 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Has anyone received or heard when we will receive the gear sets we ordered? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com From ynotink at msn.com Thu Apr 19 19:31:54 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 01:31:54 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] land rover question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, Take the old one off and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop and they can probably match it from stock. Bill Lawrence > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] land rover question > > Howdy, > My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford > type unit. Can someone supply a current part #? > I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into > it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a serious > offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky.... > Thanks > > -- > Ira Erbs > IT CONSULTANT > Portland, OR > > We can't solve problems by using the same kind of > thinking we used when we created them. > -Albert Einstein > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From ynotink at msn.com Thu Apr 19 19:43:00 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 01:43:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 In-Reply-To: <1334790525.33953.YahooMailRC@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <1334790525.33953.YahooMailRC@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The Road Runner Healey club in Albuquerque, NM has been awaiting your itinerary. Let us know when you plan to be here and we will try to lay something on. I'm sure you will be hearing from Dave Porter. Bill Lawrence > Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:08:45 -0700 > From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 > > For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving > Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8 > Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in > meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for them > last night. > > > Just an FYI. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From frogeye at porterscustom.com Thu Apr 19 19:51:07 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:51:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 In-Reply-To: References: <1334790525.33953.YahooMailRC@web83902.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0016853DFCAB422F92200244508CD516@oscar> Ah Bill.. we have been in contact with the group, but they have been re-miss/ slow in replies.... Bob and I have been in constant contact... ;~) dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 7:43 PM To: blkbt7 at yahoo.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 The Road Runner Healey club in Albuquerque, NM has been awaiting your itinerary. Let us know when you plan to be here and we will try to lay something on. I'm sure you will be hearing from Dave Porter. Bill Lawrence > Date: Wed, 18 Apr 2012 16:08:45 -0700 > From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Healeys on RT 66 > > For anyone living near old RT 66, the Dutch Healey Club has a group leaving > Chicago Thursday morning heading for LA. The group consists of 11 Healeys, 8 > Morgans, 1 TR3 and 1 MGF. I have their schedule if anyone is interested in > meeting or just seeing the group. The Chicago AHC hosted a reception for them > last night. > > > Just an FYI. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From akronzips at aol.com Thu Apr 19 20:12:08 2012 From: akronzips at aol.com (akronzips at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 22:12:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures In-Reply-To: <006601cd1e6d$d19e1840$74da48c0$@cox.net> References: <31C8F535139D4AE29B7CDC6471A4C837@RichorRobinPC> <006601cd1e6d$d19e1840$74da48c0$@cox.net> Message-ID: <8CEECB21EB35E4F-1358-1B48E@webmail-m157.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Robert Morris Sent: Thu, Apr 19, 2012 4:48 pm Subject: FW: Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures I think these pictures have been around a few times but worthy of a repeat. A Morgan is still a very desirable car. Attached Message From: Rich&Robin Lodge To: "Undisclosed-Recipient:;" Subject: Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 04:09:05 -0700 Comes with a lifetime termite protection plan. Morgan cars - incredible story & pictures Subject: THE MORGAN--JLV The Morgan Motor Company located in Britain doesnbt change in a changing world. Not only is it still independent, but it also makes each car by hand. A base model is about $44,000, with some cars costing up to $300,000. People wait for over a year to get their exclusive hand-built cars with the shell made out of metal and much of the vehicle made out of wood. Working on the wood interior, workers use metal shears to individually shape a hood because each car has to be different. Every year Morgan produces about 600 cars. The company will celebrate its 100th anniversary in 2011. It has a long and interesting history, and is still run by the same family: the Morgans. Founded by Henry Frederick Stanley Morgan known as bHFSb, it was then run by his son Peter, and is now run by Charles, the son of Peter Morgan. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 There are craftsmen b& and there are Craftsmen !! -- From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Thu Apr 19 20:24:11 2012 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 12:24:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] land rover question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have a look here Ira: http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/starter-solenoid-13h5952l-land-rover-series-3-35-p.asp or here: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-STARTER-SOLENOID-13H5952L-/250746148070 or here http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/5791.cfm Cheers Peter Linn Brisbane Oz BN1 Ward Spl coupe BN1 Holden V6 Landrover Series III LWB (petrol) -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 11:31 AM To: eyera3 at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] land rover question Ira, Take the old one off and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop and they can probably match it from stock. Bill Lawrence > From: eyera3 at gmail.com > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700 > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] land rover question > > Howdy, > My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford > type unit. Can someone supply a current part #? > I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into > it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a > serious > offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky.... > Thanks > > -- > Ira Erbs > IT CONSULTANT > Portland, OR From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 19 20:25:51 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:25:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP>, <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> Message-ID: <4F90C92F.6040206@comcast.net> Indeed. I do many wrong things but I just sprained my elbow patting myself on the back for grabbing one of the 3.5 diffs the first time around (they were $200--I think Mike barely broke even). Also started my speedometer repair odyssey trying to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears. Gloat mode off. Bob On 4/19/2012 6:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel... > > Bill Lawrence > >> From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au >> To: shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net >> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000 >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS >> >> Hi Steve >> >> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: >> >> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update >> >> Cyril, >> >> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory >> today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping >> them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. >> >> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! >> >> Best, >> Dan >> >> >> Cheers >> >> Peter Linn >> Brisbane Oz >> >> >> >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Thu Apr 19 20:29:49 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:29:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] land rover question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, I can get one, just need it this weekend and was wondering what's comparable? Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 19, 2012 7:24 PM, "Peter & Veronica" wrote: > Have a look here Ira: > > http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/**starter-solenoid-13h5952l-** > land-rover-series-3-35-p.asp > > or here: > > http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/**LAND-ROVER-SERIES-3-STARTER-** > SOLENOID-13H5952L-/**250746148070 > > or here > > http://www.roverparts.com/**Parts/5791.cfm > > Cheers > > Peter Linn > Brisbane Oz > BN1 Ward Spl coupe > BN1 Holden V6 > Landrover Series III LWB (petrol) > > -----Original Message----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 11:31 AM > To: eyera3 at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] land rover question > > Ira, > > Take the old one off and take it to NAPA or an automotive electric shop and > they can probably match it from stock. > > Bill Lawrence > > From: eyera3 at gmail.com >> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 11:22:16 -0700 >> To: healeys at autox.team.net >> Subject: [Healeys] land rover question >> >> Howdy, >> My Series III is having starter issues. The selanoid looks like a Ford >> type unit. Can someone supply a current part #? >> I'm waiting for the rain to stop (maybe this weekend) before I look into >> it. I know shorting across the terminals bypass the thing. I have a >> serious >> offer to buy and need it starting ASAP. Buyers are so picky.... >> Thanks >> >> -- >> Ira Erbs >> IT CONSULTANT >> Portland, OR From ynotink at msn.com Thu Apr 19 20:42:23 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 02:42:23 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <4F90C92F.6040206@comcast.net> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP>, <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> , <4F90C92F.6040206@comcast.net> Message-ID: You can turn that off? Who knew... > Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 19:25:51 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: ynotink at msn.com > CC: greylinn at ozemail.com.au; shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > > Indeed. > > I do many wrong things but I just sprained my elbow patting myself on the back for grabbing one of the 3.5 diffs the > first time around (they were $200--I think Mike barely broke even). Also started my speedometer repair odyssey trying > to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears. > > Gloat mode off. > > > Bob > > > > On 4/19/2012 6:09 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > Well worth the wait. But you made me wonder about my steering wheel... > > > > Bill Lawrence > > > >> From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au > >> To: shepherd at tconl.com; healeys at autox.team.net > >> Date: Thu, 19 Apr 2012 12:39:51 +1000 > >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS > >> > >> Hi Steve > >> > >> One of our guys got this reply from Dan Lempert a couple of days ago: > >> > >> Subject: Re: 3.54 Gear Status Update > >> > >> Cyril, > >> > >> No, finally we are getting somewhere, they gears were to leave the factory > >> today and are coming to me. Once I get receipt of them I'll be shipping > >> them out. Hopefully it will only take a few days for them to arrive to me. > >> > >> Thank you for your patience through this endeavor! > >> > >> Best, > >> Dan > >> > >> > >> Cheers > >> > >> Peter Linn > >> Brisbane Oz > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au Fri Apr 20 15:33:13 2012 From: jkrowe46 at bigpond.net.au (John & Kerry rowe) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 13:33:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS In-Reply-To: <4F90C92F.6040206@comcast.net> References: <16D6F9E76E334BFAB777AD11BFF1D4A1@SVSHP>, <999FF1A428CF4091BB03D23DDFE41F12@Notebook> <4F90C92F.6040206@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001d01cd1f3d$30c4ea90$924ebfb0$@net.au> 'trying to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears.' Bob- Use a GPS unit- much easier and cheaper Cheers John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, 19 April 2012 6:26 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3:54 GEAR SETS Indeed. I do many wrong things but I just sprained my elbow patting myself on the back for grabbing one of the 3.5 diffs the first time around (they were $200--I think Mike barely broke even). Also started my speedometer repair odyssey trying to get the thing calibrated for the taller gears. Gloat mode off. Bob From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Apr 20 01:48:05 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 09:48:05 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany Message-ID: "Real" 100S for sale in Germany, see here: http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20healey.andere.100s.landau/1560 10323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.cons umerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeModelVariant1.modelId=1&makeM odelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false& makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsArray=66&minPowerAsArray=K W&negativeFeatures=EXPORT The add only says its number 19 of 50 built, colour: green!! I tried to retrieve more information from the seller. But no resonse to my e-mails and in a phone call I couldn4t get any, as the lady I have got on the line wasn`t aware of the car and her boss was out of shop. I asked for a call back, but still waiting. But boss speaks fluently English, the lady told me. Good chance for you to give a call and maybe get a "Real" 100S. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Apr 20 02:35:46 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 09:35:46 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Joseph, I'm afraid I can't read German but that looks like a very poor advert for what is 'supposedly' a very rare and expensive classic. What do you get for the price? Is the car completed or is it just in the state that's shown in the photo, which could be anything, a BN1 with a Cape 100S front welded on. Anyway, all the surviving 100S's are accounted for so it should be easy to check. Not sure who is looking after the 100S register, is it still Ken Freese.? Could be a car made up from a real 100S log book/chassis number. It's been done before. Derek www.healeysix.net On Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 8:48 AM, wrote: > "Real" 100S for sale in Germany, see here: > > http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20healey.andere.100s.landau/1560 > > 10323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.cons > > umerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeModelVariant1.modelId=1&makeM > > odelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false& > > makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsArray=66&minPowerAsArray=K > W&negativeFeatures=EXPORT > The add only says its number 19 of 50 built, colour: green!! > I tried to retrieve more information from the seller. But no resonse to my > e-mails and in a phone call I couldn4t get any, as the lady I have got on > the > line wasn`t aware of the car and her boss was out of shop. I asked for a > call > back, but still waiting. But boss speaks fluently English, the lady told > me. > Good chance for you to give a call and maybe get a "Real" 100S. > > Josef Eckert > Konigswinter/Germany > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Fri Apr 20 02:51:12 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 10:51:12 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Derek, all description is this: Cabrio/Roadster, Oldtimer EZ 07/1955 100 km Benzin 97 kW (132 PS) Schaltgetriebe Weitere technische Daten Anzahl der T|ren: 2/3 T|ren HU/AU: Neu Farbe: Gr|n Fahrzeugbeschreibung Original Austin Healey "100 S" Nummer 19 von 50 gebauten Fahrzeugen ! Momentan im Neuaufbau, Weslake-Originalmotor von 1955 !!! Mit diesem Original Rennfahrzeug werden Sie bei allen Historischen Rennen zugelassen. Translated to English: Convertible/Roadster Classic Car First registered: 07/1955 (June 1955) 100 km (milage) Fuel 97 kW (132 PS) (horsepower) Manual gearbox ADDITIONAL TECHNICAL DATA Number of doors: 2/3 doors MOT inspection: new Colour: green CAR DESCRIPTION Original Austin Healey "100 S" Number 19 of 50 built cars! Currently under rebuild, Weslake-Original Engine of1955! With this original racing car you are certified to take part at any historical race. Josef Von: Derek Job [mailto:derek.c.job at gmail.com] Gesendet: Freitag, 20. April 2012 10:36 An: Eckert, Josef Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany Joseph, I'm afraid I can't read German but that looks like a very poor advert for what is 'supposedly' a very rare and expensive classic. What do you get for the price? Is the car completed or is it just in the state that's shown in the photo, which could be anything, a BN1 with a Cape 100S front welded on. Anyway, all the surviving 100S's are accounted for so it should be easy to check. Not sure who is looking after the 100S register, is it still Ken Freese.? Could be a car made up from a real 100S log book/chassis number. It's been done before. Derek www.healeysix.net On Fri, Apr 20, 2012 at 8:48 AM, > wrote: "Real" 100S for sale in Germany, see here: http://suchen.mobile.de/auto-inserat/austin%20healey.andere.100s.landau/1560 10323.html?lang=de&pageNumber=5&__lp=5&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=price.cons umerGrossEuro&makeModelVariant1.makeId=1950&makeModelVariant1.modelId=1&makeM odelVariant1.searchInFreetext=false&makeModelVariant2.searchInFreetext=false& makeModelVariant3.searchInFreetext=false&minPowerAsArray=66&minPowerAsArray=K W&negativeFeatures=EXPORT The add only says its number 19 of 50 built, colour: green!! I tried to retrieve more information from the seller. But no resonse to my e-mails and in a phone call I couldn4t get any, as the lady I have got on the line wasn`t aware of the car and her boss was out of shop. I asked for a call back, but still waiting. But boss speaks fluently English, the lady told me. Good chance for you to give a call and maybe get a "Real" 100S. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany From healeyrick at yahoo.com Fri Apr 20 06:09:48 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 05:09:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] "Real" Austin-Healey 100S for sale in Germany In-Reply-To: <1334923377.26198.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1334923788.47454.YahooMailClassic@web161202.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Here's a link to the seller's website. http://www.gs-roadster.de/index.php They show a white/lobelia S in their showroom pics. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Fri, 4/20/12, Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Joseph, I'm afraid I can't read German but that looks like a very poor advert for what is 'supposedly' a very rare and expensive classic. What do you get for the price? Is the car completed or is it just in the state that's shown in the photo, which could be anything, a BN1 with a Cape 100S front welded on. Anyway, all the surviving 100S's are accounted for so it should be easy to check. Not sure who is looking after the 100S register, is it still Ken Freese.? Could be a car made up from a real 100S log book/chassis number. It's been done before. From qualitas.jack at gmail.com Fri Apr 20 14:46:32 2012 From: qualitas.jack at gmail.com (Jack Feldman) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 15:46:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs Message-ID: Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto electric shop. I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores, but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83 dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color. When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut 13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00 price is no longer valid. I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them. >From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts. Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. Check around, you may have someone similar in your area. Jack From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 20 15:07:22 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 21:07:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <392244781.1192287.1334956042433.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the job to a local shop (and doubled the cost). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:46:32 PM Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto electric shop. I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores, but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83 dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color. When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut 13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00 price is no longer valid. I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them. >From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts. Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. Check around, you may have someone similar in your area. Jack From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 20 15:07:36 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 21:07:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1657574367.1192290.1334956056130.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the job to a local shop (and doubled the cost). Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Feldman" To: healeys at autox.team.net Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:46:32 PM Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto electric shop. I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores, but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83 dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color. When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut 13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00 price is no longer valid. I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them. >From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts. Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. Check around, you may have someone similar in your area. Jack From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 20 16:24:46 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 15:24:46 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs In-Reply-To: <392244781.1192287.1334956042433.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emer yville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <392244781.1192287.1334956042433.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120420151606.02091630@pop.att.yahoo.com> Jack, I recently had a local autoelectric shop replace the cloth on the field coils. It cost around $38. I replaced the bearing and rivets because they did not have the original style but they could have done that two and I installed the new brushes - very easy stuff. They recommended against having the commuter turned because they can crack; you can check it to see how worn it is. A generator rebuild should cost around $100. You need the drive end bearing, commuter brushes, the rear bronze race and possibly the two springs that press the brushes against the commuter. John At 09:07 PM 4/20/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote: >More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the >job to a local shop (and doubled the cost). > >Bob > > >-------------------------------- >Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jack Feldman" >To: healeys at autox.team.net >Cc: mgs at autox.team.net >Sent: Friday, April 20, 2012 1:46:32 PM >Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs > >Peter & Veronica are spot on in their advice to look up a local auto >electric shop. > >I once had an official "restorer of cars" quote $250. to rebuild a starter >for my BT7. The advice to go to an automobile electric shop is great. In >our area the one I know is Morton Grove Auto Electric which had two stores, >but only the Arlington Heights store is still open. That is in Illinois. To >them my ancient generator was just another job, and it cost me around $83 >dollars to have it rebuilt and painted the correct color. > >When I looked at the website I didn't see their Morton Grove location so I >call the contact number. I was told that the Morton Grove location was shut >13 years ago The means their repairs, and I also had more than one unit >rebuilt, have lasted over 13 years without failing. Obviously my $83.00 >price is no longer valid. > >I say this as a happy customer with no interest in them. > > From their website: We also rebuild units for owners of antique cars who >want to keep their vehicles in original condition, and for hot-rod owners >who appreciate the beauty of chromed parts. > >Their web site is .cyrusnet.com/mg/. > >Check around, you may have someone similar in your area. > >Jack >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From edriver at sasktel.net Fri Apr 20 17:00:42 2012 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E. A. Driver) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 17:00:42 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Starter, Generator Repairs In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120420151606.02091630@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <392244781.1192287.1334956042433.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20120420151606.02091630@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F91EA9A.2000404@sasktel.net> Hi John that is a price. $100, is what is have been quoted here for a generator rebuild kind regards ed Historian, AHCUSA john spaur wrote: > Jack, > > I recently had a local autoelectric shop replace the cloth on the > field coils. It cost around $38. I replaced the bearing and rivets > because they did not have the original style but they could have done > that two and I installed the new brushes - very easy stuff. They > recommended against having the commuter turned because they can crack; > you can check it to see how worn it is. A generator rebuild should > cost around $100. You need the drive end bearing, commuter brushes, > the rear bronze race and possibly the two springs that press the > brushes against the commuter. > > John > > At 09:07 PM 4/20/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote: >> More than likely the 'restorer of cars' would have farmed-out the job >> to a local shop (and doubled the cost). >> >> Bob From warthodson at aol.com Fri Apr 20 17:15:30 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 19:15:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart Message-ID: <8CEED629CF7C784-9CC-58FA8@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> Below is a link to Pertronix coil application chart with information on their coil resistance for various applications. Apparently, the "Ignitor" & "Ignitor II" require different coils. I did not know that! http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx Gary Hodson From healeyguy at bredband.net Fri Apr 20 17:47:39 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 01:47:39 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Vacuum advance (was Which electronic ignition?) In-Reply-To: <858120B9-1B64-4E4C-B621-B78C15645A16@gmail.com> References: <1AACD474-0253-4654-AFB2-5E609A3281EE@gmail.com> <39E69D6F-D35E-430D-9DDE-8CCE4C77FECC@gmail.com> <4F8F4134.8060405@bredband.net> <858120B9-1B64-4E4C-B621-B78C15645A16@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4F91F59B.1080906@bredband.net> Chris It makes a lot of sense. I checked mine, and it's 5-12-8 as you thought. And the vacuum pipe is connected to the the throttle plate at the rear carb. So, at idle we have very little vacuum, and we have very little force on the weights in the distributor, so we shouldn't have any advance really. Or should we, you say that the advance at idle is mechanic? As engine speed rise we get more advance from the weights and and more advance from the vacuum. But when does it stop? Is the advance from the weights proportional to the engine speed or something else? At what engine speed do the weights start to produce advance, and at what speed do we have to most advance. And when do we have the highest vacuum, at half throttle perhaps? I'll tell you the reason I'm investigating this. Last summer I was asked by a friend to take a look at his overdrive. It didn't work as it should. It turned out to be an electrical problem, so that was easily fixed. But while test driving his car I noticed that it didn't really work above 3000 RPM, it just misfired and was generally miserable. I began to suspect the ignition timing, and he told me that he some time in the past had had some problem with the vacuum unit. So he replaced it with a unit from what we think a Sprite. I don't know yet what profile a Sprite has, and I haven't checked if I can see any numbers on his unit yet. Since last summer I have replaced points, capacitor and spark plugs on his car. Rotor and cap are in good condition. I have also changed his carb linkage to a standard set up from what looked to be a complicated home made construction that didn't really work, why someone had changed it in the first place is beyond my understanding. So now the carbs can at least be adjusted in the correct way. I haven't yet tested the car on the road after these repairs, it's still winter (sort of) here, but I'll make a try next week. It will be very interesting. It runs fine on idle at least. Today I also checked on a BJ8, and it's also 5-12-8, and the pipe is connected at the throttle plate. That car has a leak in the vacuum pipe, so I doubt it works as it should. But that will be a later problem. Perhaps I should get myself a dyno!! Have never seen one. Best regards, Per in Sweden Chris Dimmock skrev 2012-04-19 01:28: > Hi Per, > That's correct. Sort of. Healeys generally get all their advance at idle mechanically, not by vacuum. Is your vacuum connected to the Su or manifold?? Not sure specifically about a tri carb setup. > Perhaps I should have said the difference is "opposite" at idle. From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 20 19:19:12 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 18:19:12 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart In-Reply-To: <8CEED629CF7C784-9CC-58FA8@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEED629CF7C784-9CC-58FA8@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F920B10.1030406@comcast.net> FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according to the Pertronix folks). Bob On 4/20/2012 4:15 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > Below is a link to Pertronix coil application chart with information on their > coil resistance for various applications. Apparently, the "Ignitor"& "Ignitor > II" require different coils. I did not know that! > > http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx > > Gary Hodson > _______________________________________________ > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 20 20:19:31 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 19:19:31 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart In-Reply-To: <4F920B10.1030406@comcast.net> References: <8CEED629CF7C784-9CC-58FA8@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> <4F920B10.1030406@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F921933.3080303@comcast.net> It looks like I may be mistaken (or, rather, the Pertronix folks were). Anybody running an Ignitor II in a Big Healey? Last I checked, they were neg. ground only. Bob On 4/20/2012 6:19 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according to the Pertronix folks). > > Bob > > > On 4/20/2012 4:15 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: >> Below is a link to Pertronix coil application chart with information on their >> coil resistance for various applications. Apparently, the "Ignitor"& "Ignitor >> II" require different coils. I did not know that! >> >> http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/coils/chart.aspx >> >> Gary Hodson >> _______________________________________________ >> >> > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From warthodson at aol.com Fri Apr 20 21:48:40 2012 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 23:48:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart In-Reply-To: <4F920B10.1030406@comcast.net> References: <8CEED629CF7C784-9CC-58FA8@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> <4F920B10.1030406@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CEED88C60F8D16-614-58DC9@webmail-m024.sysops.aol.com> I did not know that either! Gary -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell To: healeys Sent: Fri, Apr 20, 2012 8:20 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according o the Pertronix folks). Bob From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 20 22:31:43 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 21:31:43 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart In-Reply-To: <8CEED88C60F8D16-614-58DC9@webmail-m024.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEED629CF7C784-9CC-58FA8@webmail-m002.sysops.aol.com> <4F920B10.1030406@comcast.net> <8CEED88C60F8D16-614-58DC9@webmail-m024.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4F92382F.1030207@comcast.net> That's what a Pertronix tech support person told me, but a credible lister has said otherwise. Bob On 4/20/2012 8:48 PM, warthodson at aol.com wrote: > I did not know that either! > Gary > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Spidell > To: healeys > Sent: Fri, Apr 20, 2012 8:20 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Pertronix coil application chart > > FWIW, an Ignitor II won't fit under a Healey distributor cap (at least according > to the Pertronix folks). > > Bob > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 20 23:02:25 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 20 Apr 2012 22:02:25 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Sea Hunt TV Healey Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120420213147.020147f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Just happened to start watching the premier of Sea Hunt and there was a healey in the opening scene and then again at approximately 10:50, 16:20 and 19:21 (minutes:seconds) into the episode. http://xoteria.com/CH21.html John From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Apr 21 00:18:53 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 16:18:53 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Distributors and advance Message-ID: <21D0BC32-CDE1-4FE5-AC95-D4866CA9C54C@gmail.com> Hi Per, The mechanical advance in a Lucas distributor is achieved by centrifugal weights, the rate of movement of these 2 weights is controlled by 2 small springs. The mechanical advance "curve" is the answer to your question - the thing you get "regraphed" when a distributor gets rebuilt. Regraphing the advance curve is achieved by changing/altering springs and/or cam. Obviously after the wear is removed by replacing worn out stuff. The rate of advance is determined by the spring tension, and the degree of advance is determined by the distributor Cam. So there are only 2 things you can change. The springs (there are literally hundreds of options - wire diameter/ number of coils/ free length etc) The Cam - options from 9degrees to 18 degrees from Lucas The weights in each series of Lucas distributor (e.g. All 25d series, 4 and 6 cylinder) are all the same identical weights, there are no Lucas options to change them lighter or heavier. For example, specs for a 40662 type DM6 distributor typically fitted to a 3000 mk1 has these Lucas specs: 4.5 degrees at 500 rpm 13 degrees at 1,150 rpm 15 degrees at 2,000 rpm These are distributor rpm, driven by the cam, which turns a half crankshaft speed. So double them for engine rpm, and this distributor will give you 30 degrees of mechanical advance at 4,000 rpm. So total advance is static plus mechanical, so if you have 6 degrees of static advance, you'd have 36 degrees of advance from 4,000 rpm onwards. At light throttle, cruising, your vacuum advance operates, increasing the amount of advance to improve fuel economy and reduce emissions. So. At 1,000 rpm, you will have your static advance (set by rotation of the distributor body) plus the (4.5 degrees, x 2) = around 15 degrees. If you graph (I.e. your advance curve) these You can work out what advance you have at any given rpm. Advance stops when the distributor cam hits it's bump stop, which on this cam is 4,000 rpm. Vacuum advance stops at 8 degrees, which again is the limit of travel of the vacuum advance mechanism. Most vacuum at the SU throat is when the throttle is just open. Light throttle. Best Chris PS your friends car sounds more like a fuel starvation issue, or a timing issue, if everything else is correct Sent from my iPhone On 21/04/2012, at 9:47 AM, Per Schoerner > Chris > So, at idle we have very little vacuum, > you say that the advance at idle is mechanic? > As engine speed rise we get more advance from the weights > But when does it stop? > Is the advance from the weights proportional to the engine speed or? > At what engine speed do the weights start to produce advance, and at what speed do we have to most advance. > And when do we have the highest vacuum, at half throttle perhaps? > But while test driving his car I noticed that it didn't really work above 3000 RPM, it just misfired and was generally miserable. I began to suspect the ignition timing > Best regards, Per in Sweden From willig at wtnet.de Sat Apr 21 02:44:27 2012 From: willig at wtnet.de (T+ B Willig) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 10:44:27 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100----Update Message-ID: <003d01cd1f9a$f63bef00$e2b3cd00$@de> Hi, I have finished building up the motor to the specs described below. The results are: Smooth running Very usable power curve No running on The car was tested today on a rolling road and 82 kW (110 hp) was measured at the rear wheels at 4800rpm. I'am delighted! Best regards Thomas Willig -------------------------- First of all thanks for the big number of replys to my question. To clarify my plans: I plan to use: DW Fast road aluminum head with hardened studs and DW competition head gasket. 100S profile camshaft 228/234 10.5:1 DW pistons turned/dished to give 9.5:1 CR Harmonic damper on crankshaft Narrow fan belt conversion Lightened original flywheel All components precision balanced Con rods equalized SU H6 on 100 M Manifold 123 Ignition Regards Thomas Willig Von: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] Gesendet: Donnerstag, 13. Januar 2011 17:30 An: Thomas Willig Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100 Be very careful when raising the compressions on a 100/4. We just finished re doing a 100 M that had 13:1 flat top pistons in it the engine would run on and ping so bad on street gas that you could not drive it. Also due to the high compressions it cracked that crankshaft. DW only shows a 8.5:1 and 10.5:1. I would say that with the 10.5:1 option you will have to be very selective on fuel and possibly be limited to race fuel. When we are building a performance motor for the street we will use the 8.5:1 pistons with a good performance camshaft, New lightened flywheel and an aluminium head with hardened studs and special head gasket that does not LEAK. We also will use a verneer cam gear to adjust the cam timing to the optimum performance. We have installed lots of light flywheels on both 4 and 6 cylinder cars. As low as 15 lbs and had no problems with idle, accleration or any other of the things that have been mentioned on previous e mails. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz Sat Apr 21 05:14:37 2012 From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 23:14:37 +1200 Subject: [Healeys] Sea Hunt TV Healey In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120420213147.020147f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <6.2.3.4.2.20120420213147.020147f0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi John and fellow listers, There is a tenuous Healey link to Sea Hunt. Nell and I got to know Bernice and Keith Rishell back in the early eighties prior to the Snowmass meet which a dozen Kiwis attended. Bernice was the Central Committee chairperson for the meet so I corresponded with her a lot - no email back then. Keith was rebuilding his 100S - later sold to Bill Emerson if I remember correctly. After the meet we were on the road in the tri-carb for about 10 weeks and stayed with the Rishells at their home in Red Bluff, CA. I told you that to tell you this: Bernice formerly worked in TV. She looked after Lloyd Bridges on-set during the SEA HUNT series. Make-up, I think. She said he was a really nice guy and his support staff greatly enjoyed working with him. Always full of jokes and good humour. Cheers Mark Auckland. NZ -----Original Message----- From: john spaur [mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Saturday, 21 April 2012 5:02 p.m. To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Sea Hunt TV Healey Just happened to start watching the premier of Sea Hunt and there was a healey in the opening scene and then again at approximately 10:50, 16:20 and 19:21 (minutes:seconds) into the episode. http://xoteria.com/CH21.html John From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sat Apr 21 13:30:25 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 20:30:25 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] VSCC Season Opener at Silverstone - Photos Message-ID: Hi all, I went to the above event at Silverstone Unfortunately I couldn't stay for the racing but I spent a couple of hours in the paddock. There were some amazing cars, including a 24 litre aero engined Napier Bentley, Frazer Nash 'Chain Gang', Bobtail Cooper (ex Moss and Hill), Lotus GP car with diagnally mounted engine(never seen that before), Cooper Bristol, etc etc. The red Healey in the photos is race prepared by Paul Woolmer (Historic Registrar of the AHC) and the guy who restored 00N 440. He also looks after several 100Ss and Works Rally Cars including the final works rally car that Timo Makinen was to drive in the RAC rally that was cancelled. It has an aluminium engine. You can see the cars here http://s1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj530/derekcjob/VSCC/ Derek www.healeysix.net From varley at cosmos.net.au Sat Apr 21 16:06:45 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 08:06:45 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Latest BT7 restoration update Message-ID: <4F932F75.8050707@cosmos.net.au> Hi Guys, the panels are now completed, and I'm pleased with the result. Hopefully soon the chassis work will get started at Kilmartin's. Please follow the link for images. Cheers Larry Varley http://www.acmefluid.com.au/larry/30004.html From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 21 18:58:00 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 18:58:00 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work Message-ID: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> A shot of my "office" http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem with the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a session with the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of spark. Perhaps a ground problem? I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm going to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where should it be? mjb. From healeyguy at bredband.net Sat Apr 21 19:36:50 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 03:36:50 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> Mark The ground strap should be near the clutch slave cylinder, from one of the bolts that clamp engine and gearbox together and the frame, its not very long, maybe 4 inches or so. Per Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-04-22 02:58: > A shot of my "office" > > http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg > > > That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem with > the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a session > with > the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of spark. Perhaps a > ground > problem? > > I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm > going > to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where should it be? > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net From healeyguy at bredband.net Sat Apr 21 19:41:44 2012 From: healeyguy at bredband.net (Per Schoerner) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 03:41:44 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <4F9361D8.1060606@bredband.net> Or,,, is it on the other side? I'm getting second thoughts. Anyway, either left or right under the car at the engine backplate. Per Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-04-22 02:58: > A shot of my "office" > > http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg > > > That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem with > the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a session > with > the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of spark. Perhaps a > ground > problem? > > I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm > going > to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where should it be? > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net From shop at justbrits.com Sat Apr 21 20:04:34 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 21:04:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> Message-ID: <4F936732.6090402@justbrits.com> << On 4/21/2012 8:36 PM, Per Schoerner wrote: > The ground strap should be near the clutch slave cylinder .... >> Yep, Per. Mark, the chassis "location" IS a threaded 'hole' just aft of motor/trans joint on chassis inboard 'face'. You MIGHT find that there is just a bolt head at this location and only have a "washer" (or not - LOL) that you can see --- dat's it ! ! ! Ed From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 21 20:38:37 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 21 Apr 2012 20:38:37 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> Message-ID: <4F936F2D.1080408@bradakis.com> Thanks for the replies, folks. I always enjoy it when I get to benefit from Team.Net ;-) I should have mentioned in my original post that the car, "professionally" restored in 2010, is fitted with a Mallory dual point distributor. Just the basic points and condensor setup, no electronic fanciness. Monday I plan to take my old Craftsman timing light down to the shop. There have been occasions before where the fancy new electronic timing lights get totally whacked out by the electrical noise generated by these old cars. Sometimes you need period tools to work on period cars. mjb. From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Sun Apr 22 03:51:54 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:51:54 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F9361D8.1060606@bredband.net> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> <4F9361D8.1060606@bredband.net> Message-ID: <000001cd206d$8ca52650$a5ef72f0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Down near the starter on my BT7.. Simon -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Per Schoerner Sent: 22 April 2012 02:42 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A day at work Or,,, is it on the other side? I'm getting second thoughts. Anyway, either left or right under the car at the engine backplate. Per Mark J Bradakis skrev 2012-04-22 02:58: > A shot of my "office" > > http://bradakis.com/Images/baileys420.jpg > > > That white BJ8 is giving us fits as we waffle between a carb problem > with the ignition or an ignition problem in the carb. According to a > session with the timing light there is an intermittent drop out of > spark. Perhaps a ground problem? > > I didn't see a ground strap anywhere from the engine to the frame. I'm > going to say there should be one, but I don't know Healeys. Where > should it be? > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual > donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at bredband.net $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Apr 22 06:32:18 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 8:32:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting again Message-ID: <20120422083218.DK7MZ.2165.root@pamxwww04-z01> Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing. I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing. Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing. Now missing pretty bad. So far: I have replaced the rotor--no change Replaced the dist cap--NC replaced the wires--NC Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport) Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark. Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs. Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck. Thanks tom From javrugtman at htcnet.org Sun Apr 22 08:05:53 2012 From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:05:53 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting again In-Reply-To: <20120422083218.DK7MZ.2165.root@pamxwww04-z01> References: <20120422083218.DK7MZ.2165.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: <4F941041.3050802@htcnet.org> Bad plug? On 4/22/2012 8:32 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing. I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing. Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing. Now missing pretty bad. > > So far: > I have replaced the rotor--no change > Replaced the dist cap--NC > replaced the wires--NC > Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC > Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport) > > Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark. > > Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs. > > Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck. > > Thanks > tom From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Apr 22 08:25:30 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:25:30 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting again In-Reply-To: <4F941041.3050802@htcnet.org> Message-ID: <20120422102530.CKKH4.2565.root@pamxwww04-z01> Thanks John---I forgot to mention that I also changed all plugs-------- I guess it could be a fuel starvation problem---maybe the FP is working intermittently. tom ---- John Vrugtman wrote: ============= Bad plug? On 4/22/2012 8:32 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing. I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing. Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing. Now missing pretty bad. > > So far: > I have replaced the rotor--no change > Replaced the dist cap--NC > replaced the wires--NC > Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC > Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport) > > Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark. > > Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs. > > Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck. > > Thanks > tom Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From bengaard at 850r.dk Sun Apr 22 08:37:19 2012 From: bengaard at 850r.dk (Niels Bengaard) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 16:37:19 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F936F2D.1080408@bradakis.com> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> <4F936F2D.1080408@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <45FF22802C8F499E83BC93DFAA1AF8DA@NIB> New timing lights arent that good for a Healey. I have a Innova Equus 5568, that automatically senses when you run the engine and goes into that mode. If it doesnt sense ignition it shows voltage. It can sense ignition for max 10 sec, thats the time you have to put in the 15 deg. BTDC and also measure. It resets if it looses the ignition signal. Niels -----Oprindelig meddelelse----- From: Mark J Bradakis Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2012 4:38 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] A day at work Thanks for the replies, folks. I always enjoy it when I get to benefit from Team.Net ;-) I should have mentioned in my original post that the car, "professionally" restored in 2010, is fitted with a Mallory dual point distributor. Just the basic points and condensor setup, no electronic fanciness. Monday I plan to take my old Craftsman timing light down to the shop. There have been occasions before where the fancy new electronic timing lights get totally whacked out by the electrical noise generated by these old cars. Sometimes you need period tools to work on period cars. mjb. Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bengaard at 850r.dk From caddi5 at comcast.net Sun Apr 22 09:22:24 2012 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 15:22:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper Message-ID: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Hello Gentlemen, What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) thanks Mitchell 1959 bn4 From eyera3 at gmail.com Sun Apr 22 09:34:11 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 08:34:11 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I'm a big beleiver in fyi, but I would send it out to have them media blasted. It's quick and environmentally safe. Emron requires some serious stuff to remove. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 22, 2012 8:22 AM, wrote: > Hello Gentlemen, > > What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going to > strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint was used > but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around > remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) > > thanks > Mitchell > > 1959 bn4 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 22 10:30:15 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 02:30:15 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <845097BA-36BE-43F2-8747-52B0352027C2@gmail.com> Redistrip. Seriously, shrouds are alloy. And over 40 years old aluminum alloy. Anything "we" use to remove paint requires scraping. And the last thing we need is trying to scrape bubbling old paint off a 40 plus year old aluminum shroud with a flat steel scraper.... You might get the paint off, but you can add hundreds of dollars to the prep by scarring the shrouds removing old paint.. Some things we can do. Some we can't. Unless you've done this before, then I'd suggest don't learn on aluminum shrouds on your Healey. Get it chemically dipped by a professional. As Dirty Harry said, "a man must know his limitations" Or something like that..... ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 23/04/2012, at 1:22 AM, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: > Hello Gentlemen, > > What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) > > thanks > Mitchell > > 1959 bn4 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From kentmclean at comcast.net Sun Apr 22 10:53:34 2012 From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:53:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F94378E.1020709@comcast.net> caddi5 wrote: > What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? > I am going to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. Three different materials - aluminum shroud, steel doors, and fiberglass top - need 3 different strippers. You'll want the least abrasive method for each. I'll let others with more experience comment on what to use. -- Kent McLean '56 100 BN2 From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 22 10:58:58 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 09:58:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emer yville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120422095624.020e6e90@pop.att.yahoo.com> Kleanstrip Aircraft paint remover. It is made for aluminum and works on steel too. I have not used it to remove Imron that I know of. I stripped my shrouds and wings with out scaring the metal. Just let the stripper do the work; it takes several applications. Use a little heat from a propane torch on the bondo. John At 03:22 PM 4/22/2012 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: >Hello Gentlemen, > >What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going >to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint >was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around >remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) > >thanks >Mitchell > >1959 bn4 >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From thomas3 at shaw.ca Sun Apr 22 11:31:16 2012 From: thomas3 at shaw.ca (rick thomas) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 13:31:16 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] fuel sending unit Message-ID: hey there every one In the never ending battle of an accurate fuel guage, does anyone have any thing to say on these double brush sending units curently being old on E Bay thanks Rick From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Apr 22 11:47:33 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:47:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <845097BA-36BE-43F2-8747-52B0352027C2@gmail.com> Message-ID: <1335116853.469.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> RediStrip did a great job on my bugeye 35 yrs ago, but it is getting increasingly difficult to find operators as environmental regs. have caused a number of them to close, like the one here in Massachusetts. If you do find one, make sure they know it's aluminum they are dipping, they use a different solution than they do for steel. I'm pretty sure the steel solution will dissolve the ali. If you go with an aircraft stripper, sand the old finish with coarse sandpaper first, apply the stripper and cover it with plastic wrap to keep the stripper from evaporating. Let the stripper do the work. Might be best to use plastic scrapers and single edge razor blades for the removal process. Oh yeah, wear a respirator in a well ventilated area, otherwise you'll be higher than Barrett-Jackson auction prices. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sun, 4/22/12, Chris Dimmock wrote: From: Chris Dimmock Subject: Re: [Healeys] paint stripper To: "caddi5 at comcast.net" Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" Date: Sunday, April 22, 2012, 12:30 PM Redistrip. Seriously, shrouds are alloy. And over 40 years old aluminum alloy. Anything "we" use to remove paint requires scraping. And the last thing we need is trying to scrape bubbling old paint off a 40 plus year old aluminum shroud with a flat steel scraper.... You might get the paint off, but you can add hundreds of dollars to the prep by scarring the shrouds removing old paint.. Some things we can do. Some we can't. Unless you've done this before, then I'd suggest don't learn on aluminum shrouds on your Healey. Get it chemically dipped by a professional. As Dirty Harry said, "a man must know his limitations" Or something like that..... ;-) Chris From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 22 12:43:20 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:43:20 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120422095624.020e6e90@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1009131973.1242654.1335120200389.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Agree; except the 'standard' Klean-Strip stripper--more readily available--seems to be pretty much the same stuff and just as effective (and probably cheaper). Interestingly enough, the last time I read the label on the Klean-Strip 'Aircraft' paint stripper it said 'Not for use on aircraft.' Go figure. Tips: put the stripper on heavy and wet and only brush it on in one direction. Don't scrimp, and scrape it off as soon as the paint bubbles; if you let it dry you go back to square one. Use plastic scrapers on aluminum. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Kleanstrip Aircraft paint remover. It is made for aluminum and works on steel too. I have not used it to remove Imron that I know of. I stripped my shrouds and wings with out scaring the metal. Just let the stripper do the work; it takes several applications. Use a little heat from a propane torch on the bondo. John At 03:22 PM 4/22/2012 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: >Hello Gentlemen, > >What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going >to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint >was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around >remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) > >thanks >Mitchell From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 22 13:24:18 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:24:18 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <1335116853.469.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.c om> References: <845097BA-36BE-43F2-8747-52B0352027C2@gmail.com> <1335116853.469.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120422121158.0204dd18@pop.att.yahoo.com> Remember, it is the paint you are removing so the aluminum stripper will work on the painted steel. A few other points: Most body shops will skim coat the entire car so small scratches are not a problem at all, in fact if bondo is being used to fill in small dings they usually leave a rougher finish to help with adhesion. If the aluminum or steel is being straightened using traditional hammer and dolly techniques it can be very rough because of the filing that is done to find low and high spots in the process. Metal scrapers are fine, just use them carefully. Don't use a steel brush on the aluminum. I am told it can leave embedded fragments in the aluminum that will rust. Always use a brash wire brush on the aluminum. John At 10:47 AM 4/22/2012 -0700, HealeyRick wrote: >I'm pretty sure the steel solution will dissolve the aluminum. From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 22 13:30:10 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:30:10 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fuel sending unit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120422122425.020f61a8@pop.att.yahoo.com> I bought one from NOS locators and the quality is excellent. However, for my application (BT7) it would not read correctly. The OMH range was off. I believe it needs to read in the 0-70 or 0-90 range. I could not get it even close to those ranges on my work bench. I never put it in the car. I sent the sender to West Valley Instruments to have the gauge restored and to have him calibrate it. He had an original sender that I bought instead. John At 01:31 PM 4/22/2012 -0400, rick thomas wrote: >hey there every one >In the never ending battle of an accurate fuel guage, does anyone >have any thing to say on these double brush sending units curently >being old on E Bay >thanks > >Rick From rwil at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 22 14:25:41 2012 From: rwil at sbcglobal.net (Roland Wilhelmy) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 13:25:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120422121158.0204dd18@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <845097BA-36BE-43F2-8747-52B0352027C2@gmail.com> <1335116853.469.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <1335116853.469.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.c om> <6.2.3.4.2.20120422121158.0204dd18@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I think Healey Rick had in mind the kind of stripper solution that whole chasses and engine blocks are dipped into, the stuff that eats away the aluminum ID tags on the block if you don't pull the drive rivets and remove them. It would disolve any problems on your shrouds, too ;-) Then you'd get to start over. -Roland On Sun, 22 Apr 2012 12:24:18 -0700,John wrote: ::Remember, it is the paint you are removing so the aluminum stripper ::will work on the painted steel. [snip] :: ::John :: ::At 10:47 AM 4/22/2012 -0700, HealeyRick wrote: ::>I'm pretty sure the steel solution will dissolve the aluminum. From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sun Apr 22 15:15:39 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 14:15:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <1335116853.469.YahooMailClassic@web161205.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1335129339.53524.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> You may also want to give mechanical stripping a try. The 3M Scotch Brite Purple Disc in a grinder is supposed to work really well: http://tinyurl.com/6vww25e I wouldn't want to keep it too long in one place so as not to put too much heat in and warp the metal. A lot of guys swear by using single edge razor blades and shaving the paint off. I don't know if this would work on Imron, though. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From allynrichardson at cox.net Sun Apr 22 17:19:42 2012 From: allynrichardson at cox.net (Allyn Richardson) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 16:19:42 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paint stripping Message-ID: My .02 cents worth..My X cousin in law, think that's what it is when you get a divorce.lol.. has a shop that restores high end cars. He has gone to baking the old paint finishes off of cars. An environmentally friendly, and cost effective quick way of removing the paint. Whole car goes in the oven after being stripped of all items you don't want to get cooked. Car comes out and what is left of the paint, bondo filler, and eons of grease is a powder residue vacuumed off. From llennep at verizon.net Sun Apr 22 17:28:55 2012 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:28:55 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] Paint stripping Message-ID: <20179750.137526.1335137335297.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> Sort of the autobody answer to cremation???? On 04/22/12, Allyn Richardson wrote: My .02 cents worth..My X cousin in law, think that's what it is when you get a divorce.lol.. has a shop that restores high end cars. He has gone to baking the old paint finishes off of cars. An environmentally friendly, and cost effective quick way of removing the paint. Whole car goes in the oven after being stripped of all items you don't want to get cooked. Car comes out and what is left of the paint, bondo filler, and eons of grease is a powder residue vacuumed off. Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net From llennep at verizon.net Sun Apr 22 17:29:34 2012 From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 18:29:34 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper Message-ID: <6365727.137599.1335137374720.JavaMail.root@vznit170064> My favorite stuff too!!!!!! On 04/22/12, john spaur wrote: Kleanstrip Aircraft paint remover. It is made for aluminum and works on steel too. I have not used it to remove Imron that I know of. I stripped my shrouds and wings with out scaring the metal. Just let the stripper do the work; it takes several applications. Use a little heat from a propane torch on the bondo. John At 03:22 PM 4/22/2012 +0000, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: >Hello Gentlemen, > >What is the very best.......... PAINT STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going >to strip my shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint >was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll around >remover.................and yes I know it will be a mess:):):) > >thanks >Mitchell > >1959 bn4 >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net From allynrichardson at cox.net Sun Apr 22 17:39:53 2012 From: allynrichardson at cox.net (Allyn Richardson) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 16:39:53 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paint stripping Message-ID: <8C2293DBA3EF4B5D9F0FE9D747C3D031@AllynPC> Now that you mention it.Yep!..lol. From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sun Apr 22 17:46:19 2012 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 19:46:19 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Re: Paint stripping In-Reply-To: <4F94970D.5060907@comcast.net> References: <4F94970D.5060907@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F94984B.1020505@comcast.net> Allyn, I would be very afraid of annealing the aluminum shrouds with this method. I think that to turn the paint into a powder would require a temperature above that required to anneal aluminum. I have annealed aluminum in a paint baking oven meant to cure the paint and not burn it to a powder. Healey shrouds are somewhat soft anyway, but losing their temper would be a disaster. Charlie On 4/22/2012 7:19 PM, Allyn Richardson wrote: > My .02 cents worth..My X cousin in law, think that's what it is when you get > a divorce.lol.. has a shop that restores high end cars. He has gone to > baking the old paint finishes off of cars. An environmentally friendly, and > cost effective quick way of removing the paint. Whole car goes in the oven > after being stripped of all items you don't want to get cooked. Car comes > out and what is left of the paint, bondo filler, and eons of grease is a > powder residue vacuumed off. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net From allynrichardson at cox.net Sun Apr 22 17:53:14 2012 From: allynrichardson at cox.net (Allyn Richardson) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 16:53:14 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paint stripper Message-ID: <0E99D9B627E64665B872C45C07953EDC@AllynPC> I had the same concerns myself. I think the Aluminum used for the shrouds was a 1000 series aluminum , very soft to begin with. And becomes work hardened by forming it. He assured me that he has processed many aluminum bodied cars this way. And not to worry. In the interest of full disclosure I never proceeded with it myself. I think the key is that the car is complete and panels attached. They will remain in shape and not relax out of shape if held in place. It definitely would require a leap of faith on this method and some more research. Just wanted to throw it out there as an alternative people are doing now. From dos_gusanos at msn.com Sun Apr 22 21:54:38 2012 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 21:54:38 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Where should I buy my 100 top? Message-ID: Hello Gang, who makes the best original style top for the BN2? where should I get it? Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM From bce257 at yahoo.co.nz Mon Apr 23 02:43:51 2012 From: bce257 at yahoo.co.nz (Andrew Thorp) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 01:43:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper In-Reply-To: <301459316.1588493.1335108144790.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1335170631.92584.YahooMailClassic@web160303.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Anything with methylene chloride in it will get the paint off the metal but don't use it on the fibreglass as it will eat the gelcoat. I did my shrouds & ht last year and used the cheapest hardware store stripper in 4 litre tins. Slop it on with a paint brush and scrub it off after ten minutes with a brass wire brush. Clean the wire bristles off with a rag when they are caked up and you don't make very much mess at all. If you have heaps of paint layers the first ones can be scraped on the flat areas with a paint scraper but only very gentle scraping on the curved bits. Good hose down afterwards before the stripper starts to dry and you're done. For the hardtop I used a citrus based stripper and it worked well although a little more slowly than the methylene chloride type. I covered it in plastic kitchen wrap and came back in half an hour with the wire brush. It took about five goes to get it all off. Don't get the fibreglass soaking wet as it absorbs moisture. Lots and lots of photos before and during stripdown... Andy. --- On Mon, 23/4/12, caddi5 at comcast.net wrote: > From: caddi5 at comcast.net > Subject: [Healeys] paint stripper > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Received: Monday, 23 April, 2012, 3:22 AM > Hello Gentlemen, > > What is the very best.......... PAINT > STRIPPER/REMOVER? I am going to strip my > shrouds,doors,and hard top. I beleive that Imron paint > was used but not sure of that .so I want the best alll > around remover.................and yes I know it will be a > mess:):):) > > thanks > Mitchell > > 1959 bn4 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Mon Apr 23 06:45:15 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:45:15 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100----Update In-Reply-To: <003d01cd1f9a$f63bef00$e2b3cd00$@de> References: <003d01cd1f9a$f63bef00$e2b3cd00$@de> Message-ID: Thomas Congratulations on building a very nice engine. I was talking to the mechanic that looks after 2, 100s that race at Le Mans and Goodwood. They have full blown race engines with steels cranks etc, etc. He had just got back from dyno testing and recorded 141 hp at the wheels which they feel is about the maximum you can extract from the 100 engine regards Derek www.healeysix.net On Sat, Apr 21, 2012 at 9:44 AM, T+ B Willig wrote: > Hi, > > I have finished building up the motor to the specs described below. The > results are: > > Smooth running > Very usable power curve > No running on > > The car was tested today on a rolling road and 82 kW (110 hp) was measured > at the rear wheels at 4800rpm. I'am delighted! > > Best regards > > > Thomas Willig > > -------------------------- > > First of all thanks for the big number of replys to my question. To > clarify my plans: > > > > I plan to use: > > > > DW Fast road aluminum head with hardened studs and DW competition head > gasket. > > 100S profile camshaft 228/234 > > 10.5:1 DW pistons turned/dished to give 9.5:1 CR > > Harmonic damper on crankshaft > > Narrow fan belt conversion > > Lightened original flywheel > > All components precision balanced > > Con rods equalized > > SU H6 on 100 M Manifold > > 123 Ignition > > Regards > > Thomas Willig > > > Von: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net] > Gesendet: Donnerstag, 13. Januar 2011 17:30 > An: Thomas Willig > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net > Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Compression ratio for a fast road 100 > > Be very careful when raising the compressions on a 100/4. We just > finished re doing a 100 M that had 13:1 flat top pistons in it the > engine would run on and ping so bad on street gas that you could not > drive it. Also due to the high compressions it cracked that crankshaft. > > DW only shows a 8.5:1 and 10.5:1. I would say that with the 10.5:1 > option you will have to be very selective on fuel and possibly be > limited to race fuel. > > When we are building a performance motor for the street we will use the > 8.5:1 pistons with a good performance camshaft, New lightened flywheel > and an aluminium head with hardened studs and special head gasket that > does not LEAK. We also will use a verneer cam gear to adjust the cam > timing to the optimum performance. > > We have installed lots of light flywheels on both 4 and 6 cylinder cars. > As low as 15 lbs and had no problems with idle, accleration or any other > of the things that have been mentioned on previous e mails. > > David Nock > > British Car Specialists > > Stockton Ca 95205 > > 209-948-8767 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From caddi5 at comcast.net Mon Apr 23 07:34:44 2012 From: caddi5 at comcast.net (caddi5 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:34:44 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper Message-ID: <2139795646.1614775.1335188084297.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry...........................I have used paint stripper many years ago and was just wondering if there were any NEW and IMPROVED brands avail. I think I will strip the hardtop by hand(sanding)..................doors (have them dipped chemically)..................and the shrouds using Aircraft stripper.(carefully) Thanks Again Mitch From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Apr 23 08:16:41 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:16:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info Message-ID: <20120423101641.76O77.127330.root@pamxwww10-z01> I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is not electrical. I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in both. Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or something in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting fuel? I don't want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total impass as to what this could be. Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix? My understanding is that if the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow dying process for it?? What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I mentioned above?? Thanks for all your comments. tom From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 23 09:12:32 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 08:12:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] A day at work In-Reply-To: <4F936F2D.1080408@bradakis.com> References: <4F935798.20206@bradakis.com> <4F9360B2.8000503@bredband.net> <4F936F2D.1080408@bradakis.com> Message-ID: The Mallory Dual Point system is prone to the condensor coming loose as well as the points need to e maintained. Check the gaps they probably have closed up or the condensor has a bad connection to ground. Some of the modern timing lights will not work correctly on the older ignition systems if you are using solid core plug wires. We have carbon wire that we install in place of the number 1 plug wire if there is a problem with the modern timing lights. David Nock British Car Specialists Stockton Ca 95205 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com . . On Apr 21, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Thanks for the replies, folks. I always enjoy it when I get to > benefit from > Team.Net ;-) > > I should have mentioned in my original post that the car, > "professionally" > restored in 2010, is fitted with a Mallory dual point distributor. > Just the > basic points and condensor setup, no electronic fanciness. > > Monday I plan to take my old Craftsman timing light down to the > shop. There > have been occasions before where the fancy new electronic timing > lights get > totally whacked out by the electrical noise generated by these old > cars. > > Sometimes you need period tools to work on period cars. > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From awill at ccs.ua.edu Mon Apr 23 10:02:14 2012 From: awill at ccs.ua.edu (Williams, Allen) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 11:02:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info In-Reply-To: <20120423101641.76O77.127330.root@pamxwww10-z01> References: <20120423101641.76O77.127330.root@pamxwww10-z01> Message-ID: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE606871C1E0DC@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> I haven't followed your troubles closely, so please excuse me if my suggestions have been mentioned. I had trouble several years ago with my car spitting, missing, quitting altogether. Ultimately it turned out to be a series of bad rotors. When they short to ground, the tracking can be difficult to see. Worth a look! Perhaps you've already checked to see if the distributor is actually advancing as needed. Probably worth rechecking the timing, too. If the symptoms you are having are caused by a lean condition, you could try pulling out the choke partially to make it run a little richer. If it runs better, then you might suspect trash or other issues. One thing I've done to check the possiblity of trash obstructing fuel flow is to take off the carb's damper assembly and shoot carb cleaner into the jet. That will clear it it out at least temporarily. While there, check the needle to make sure it's properly fitted, not bent or otherwise off center. Also, I'd make sure the dampers are not sticking. Just my 2 cents on what I'd try. Regards, Allen W. BJ7 (ours for the last 38 years) ________________________________________ From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts [tomfelts at windstream.net] Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 9:16 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is not electrical. I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in both. Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or something in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting fuel? I don't want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total impass as to what this could be. Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix? My understanding is that if the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow dying process for it?? What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I mentioned above?? Thanks for all your comments. tom Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys From bighealey at charter.net Mon Apr 23 11:13:19 2012 From: bighealey at charter.net (Tracy Drummond) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 10:13:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Thermo car needle assembly needed Message-ID: <000301cd2174$61834c10$2489e430$@charter.net> I have a broken thermo carb needle stop adjustment. If you have one you are willing to part with or trade for ?? please let me know. This assembly is held on by two flathead screws . Whatta ya got. Thanks Warm Regards, Tracy Drummond PMP | ITIL Service Manager | CISSP | bighealey at charter.net | 408-394-3444 cell | 408-776-0133 home | http://www.linkedin.com/in/tracydrummond From randerson33 at triad.rr.com Mon Apr 23 12:50:39 2012 From: randerson33 at triad.rr.com (randerson33 at triad.rr.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 14:50:39 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info In-Reply-To: <0FEAF9BEA66B884B8B9DAA4C7135CE606871C1E0DC@MAIL1.ua-net.ua.edu> Message-ID: <20120423185040.JJSM3.20388.root@cdptpa-web08-z01> Have you checked the coil? Try coil of known quanity. Jerry Anderson ---- "Williams wrote: > I haven't followed your troubles closely, so please excuse me if my > suggestions have been mentioned. > I had trouble several years ago with my car spitting, missing, quitting > altogether. Ultimately it turned out to be a series of bad rotors. When they > short to ground, the tracking can be difficult to see. Worth a look! Perhaps > you've already checked to see if the distributor is actually advancing as > needed. Probably worth rechecking the timing, too. > If the symptoms you are having are caused by a lean condition, you could try > pulling out the choke partially to make it run a little richer. If it runs > better, then you might suspect trash or other issues. > One thing I've done to check the possiblity of trash obstructing fuel flow is > to take off the carb's damper assembly and shoot carb cleaner into the jet. > That will clear it it out at least temporarily. While there, check the needle > to make sure it's properly fitted, not bent or otherwise off center. Also, I'd > make sure the dampers are not sticking. Just my 2 cents on what I'd try. > Regards, > Allen W. > BJ7 (ours for the last 38 years) > > ________________________________________ > From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Tom Felts [tomfelts at windstream.net] > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 9:16 AM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info > > I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the > "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is not > electrical. > > I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in both. > > Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or something > in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting fuel? I don't > want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total impass as to what > this could be. > > Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix? My understanding is that if > the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow dying > process for it?? > > What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I > mentioned above?? > > Thanks for all your comments. > > tom > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/randerson33 at triad.rr.com From jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com Mon Apr 23 13:08:27 2012 From: jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com (jerry wall) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 14:08:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting---------more info In-Reply-To: <20120423101641.76O77.127330.root@pamxwww10-z01> References: <20120423101641.76O77.127330.root@pamxwww10-z01> Message-ID: CHECK THE BRASS filters at the float chamber entry. over a period of time, these can become compacted with fuel tank debris. cheers, jerry wall On Mon, Apr 23, 2012 at 9:16 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > I have checked all I can think of electrically that could cause the > "spitting"/missing, and have just about come to the conclusion that it is > not electrical. > > I have pulled the carb float chamber covers and there is ample fuel in > both. > > Could it possible be some crud in the bottom of the float chamber or > something in the passageway leading to the jet assy that is restricting > fuel? I don't want to pull these off unless I have to, but I'm at a total > impass as to what this could be. > > Am I right to conclude it is not the Pertronix? My understanding is that > if the Per goes, it really goes---car shuts off, so it wouldn't be a slow > dying process for it?? > > What are your thoughts---fuel starvation--and if so----where---maybe as I > mentioned above?? > > Thanks for all your comments. > > tom > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jwbn6hrdtp at gmail.com > > -- jerry wall BN6 rowlett, tx From stella67 at aol.com Mon Apr 23 13:33:30 2012 From: stella67 at aol.com (stella67 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 15:33:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 for sale Message-ID: <8CEEF9F18A14449-2A8C-2974E@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> A long time friend is moving back to England and is not going to take his Healey since he lives in London and has no place to park the car. He tried it for several years and could not find good easy, affordable parking from where he has his house. Mike and I have been friends for twenty five years and have traveled many hundreds of miles together in our Healey's. For those 25 years I have known this to be an exceptional car that has been driven without issues all over the east coast, Midwest and eastern Canada. I have no financial interest just trying to help a friend. If anyone is interested I will be happy to send the information I have. You can contact me at this email or at mcelrath.john at gmail.com. Thanks John McElrath From eyera3 at gmail.com Mon Apr 23 14:47:06 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 13:47:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 Message-ID: http://www.mgenthusiast.com/mg-news/latest-news/634-an-unregistered-bgt-le-has-surfaced-in-lancashire Found in storage brand new 1981 mgb gt Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR From healeyrick at yahoo.com Mon Apr 23 15:22:28 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 14:22:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1335216148.23600.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I'd rather have one of these brand new Spitfires: http://tinyurl.com/6ulyjrz Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Mon, 4/23/12, I Erbs wrote: From: I Erbs Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 To: "Ahealey help" Date: Monday, April 23, 2012, 4:47 PM http://www.mgenthusiast.com/mg-news/latest-news/634-an-unregistered-bgt-le-ha s-surfaced-in-lancashire Found in storage brand new 1981 mgb gt Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR From tomfelts at windstream.net Mon Apr 23 18:17:00 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 20:17:00 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Happy Days are Here again!! Message-ID: <20120423201700.7DPWH.133498.root@pamxwww10-z01> The "spitting" problem has "apparently" been solved. (I'm still holding my breath) I really thought it was a fuel delivery problem, and decided to pull the carb pistons and, using a piece of rubber hose, blew back towards the jet and fuel passageway from the chamber. Must have blown out what was inside the channel cause she is back to her smooth self!!! Now----guess I should pull the chambers off and clean out in there before whatever was in there gets back again! Thanks to all of you for your help and encouragement. Tom From mark at bradakis.com Mon Apr 23 22:30:25 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 23 Apr 2012 22:30:25 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F962C61.20308@bradakis.com> Here's what I wrote the other day on the MG list about a car we had come into the shop: Some fellow purchased a new 1980 MGB limited edition. He drove it from Salt Lake up to his place in Heber, about 40 miles away. He died a week or so later. Wow. His son took over the place, the MG sat in a heated outbuilding under wraps for these many years. The daughter now wants to drive it. The first time it came into Mike's shop it had just over 100 miles on it. Friday when we put in a new fuel sending unit it was way up to 500. The parts aren't wearing out, they are dying of boredom! It even has the original tires. Clean, unmolested, wow. She is thinking of driving it to New York this summer. And yes, she will put new tires on it before doing so. Personally if it were mine *I* wouldn't put thousands of miles on it for a road trip. From gbrierton at hotmail.com Tue Apr 24 04:00:06 2012 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 06:00:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 In-Reply-To: <4F962C61.20308@bradakis.com> References: <4F962C61.20308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: But...but...it's a neat LBC! I would drive it, provided one has gone through it and made sure that it didn't have original parts that were on the verge of catastrophic failure. Why not drive it? I drive my 1967 Healey thousands of miles each year. That is why I have it. Just one man's opinion, of course ;<) GaryB -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:30 AM To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 05:23:40 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 21:23:40 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Brand new MGB GT LE 1981 In-Reply-To: References: <4F962C61.20308@bradakis.com> Message-ID: Truthfully. With all due respect. Every disclaimer I can think of..... Seriously. A 1981 MGB? Now if it was a 1981 Toyota, or a 1981 Honda..... Let's get excited!!!! ;-) Chris Tongue firmly planted in cheek. Well, maybe not... Sent from my iPhone On 24/04/2012, at 8:00 PM, "Gary R. Brierton" wrote: > But...but...it's a neat LBC! I would drive it, provided one has gone through it and made sure that it didn't have original parts that were on the verge of catastrophic failure. Why not drive it? > I drive my 1967 Healey thousands of miles each year. That is why I have it. Just one man's opinion, of course ;<) > GaryB > > -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis > Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 12:30 AM > To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brand new From pieters at pt.lu Tue Apr 24 08:37:53 2012 From: pieters at pt.lu (Pieter and Linda) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 16:37:53 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Heart stopper Message-ID: Any of you recognize themselves in this heartstopper from Sydney, Australia?? http://news.ninemsn.com.au/national/8456090/video-shows-near-misses-at-sydney -intersection cheers Pieter From edriver at sasktel.net Tue Apr 24 08:51:20 2012 From: edriver at sasktel.net (E. A. Driver) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 08:51:20 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Under the Southern Cross Message-ID: <4F96BDE8.90707@sasktel.net> A very pleasant ANZAC Day under the Southern Cross Warm regards Ed Saskatoon, Saskatchewan From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Tue Apr 24 09:03:55 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 16:03:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] EBC Greenstuff anti-squeal Message-ID: <001401cd222b$7ac48510$704d8f30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Have just received new EBC pads for my MkII BT7. In the box was a plastic envelope containing four black adhesive pads/sheets (3M 468 MP :- according to Google this stuff is a " High performance 200MP pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". These were not supplied with previous pads. Does anyone have any experience with these pads?.... Are they effective? And/or are they more effective than the shaped metal shim type thingies that I've used, with some success, until now? Or maybe I could/should(?) use the 3M pads AND the metal shim type thingies? I'll trot off and cut the pads to shape anyhow. I suspect that this stuff won't cut too easily if it's that heat resistant...? Thanks, Simon. From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 10:37:52 2012 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 12:37:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short Message-ID: I have just refinished the wooden dash panel on my BJ8 and put everything back together again. According to the wiring diagram and the pics I took as I went along, everything is hooked up as before. Now I have a dead short somewhere and I can't find it. A few years back I added an inline fuse between the starter solenoid and the regulator (now just a buss since neg ground conversion.) Car was doing fine before project. Now the fuse blows when I turn the battery switch on. Not that it is revalent but hte fuse is a Buss 35A. Had my wife look as I turned the batt switch and she saw a flash in the fuse holder when I turned the switch. Sounds to me like a hot wire is going to ground, but I don't see it. Anyone have any ideas of what to do next? Is there a way to chase it with an ohmmeter? Bob Johnson BJ8 From enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk Tue Apr 24 10:54:47 2012 From: enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk (Tom McCay - Classic-Car-World Ltd) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 17:54:47 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Bob, sounds like a definite short to ground somewhere. Best way is to disconnect the battery and connect a lamp between the battery +ve and the battery cable you have disconnected. With a short in the system this will light the lamp. Start by disconnecting everything under the dash one at a time and whatever puts the light out when you disconnect it is the source of the short. Investigate this part of the circuit in detail to locate the problem. Kindest Regards Tom Tom McCay - Director, CCW-Tools, a division of Classic-Car-World Ltd, 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. 01522 888178 (Tel) 0870 705 9115 (fax) enquiries at ccw-tools.com www.ccw-tools.com Registered address: 32 Washingborough Road, Heighington, Lincoln, LN4 1RE. Classic-Car-World Limited is a company registered in England and Wales with company number 3930761. VAT registration number: 755 7630 05 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Johnson" To: "Healeys" Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 5:37 PM Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short >I have just refinished the wooden dash panel on my BJ8 and put everything > back together again. According to the wiring diagram and the pics I took > as > I went along, everything is hooked up as before. Now I have a dead short > somewhere and I can't find it. A few years back I added an inline fuse > between the starter solenoid and the regulator (now just a buss since neg > ground conversion.) Car was doing fine before project. Now the fuse blows > when I turn the battery switch on. Not that it is revalent but hte fuse is > a Buss 35A. Had my wife look as I turned the batt switch and she saw a > flash in the fuse holder when I turned the switch. Sounds to me like a hot > wire is going to ground, but I don't see it. Anyone have any ideas of what > to do next? Is there a way to chase it with an ohmmeter? > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/enquiries at classic-car-world.co.uk From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 11:22:02 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 13:22:02 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Bob, I have had that proble3m before and I would suggest that you take a close look at the ignition light socket.The originals were isolated from ground but most harness manufacturers don't recognize that and use the same socket as the dash illumination lights. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 12:37 PM, Bob Johnson wrote: > I have just refinished the wooden dash panel on my BJ8 and put everything > back together again. According to the wiring diagram and the pics I took as > I went along, everything is hooked up as before. Now I have a dead short > somewhere and I can't find it. A few years back I added an inline fuse > between the starter solenoid and the regulator (now just a buss since neg > ground conversion.) Car was doing fine before project. Now the fuse blows > when I turn the battery switch on. Not that it is revalent but hte fuse is > a Buss 35A. Had my wife look as I turned the batt switch and she saw a > flash in the fuse holder when I turned the switch. Sounds to me like a hot > wire is going to ground, but I don't see it. Anyone have any ideas of what > to do next? Is there a way to chase it with an ohmmeter? > > Bob Johnson > BJ8 > _ From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 12:34:36 2012 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 14:34:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow! three replies in under an hour, all good. Tried Steve's first. Problem is between ign and lighter, probably at lighter. Now to figure out what is going on there. Can't be much, though. Thanks for the help guys. Bob Johnson BJ8 From bjsbj8 at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 13:14:11 2012 From: bjsbj8 at gmail.com (Bob Johnson) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 15:14:11 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Chasing Electrical Short--- SOLVED! Message-ID: It was the lighter. Somehow the insides of the lighter had gotten twisted enough that at one little point there was just enough contact with the outside of the body to cause the short. Loosened the nut that holds the assembly together, moved the inside works about 1//32". Problem solved! Thanks all! Bob Johnson BJ8 (cranked and running again) From healeyrick at yahoo.com Tue Apr 24 15:32:30 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 14:32:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Drive Away Cancer Message-ID: <1335303150.34275.YahooMailClassic@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Two stories about John Nikas's latest adventure in the media today: LA Times: http://tinyurl.com/6qj4oud Hemmings Blog: http://tinyurl.com/6rx5vlx Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo From austin.healey at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 16:46:13 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:46:13 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Under the Southern Cross In-Reply-To: <4F96BDE8.90707@sasktel.net> References: <4F96BDE8.90707@sasktel.net> Message-ID: <3B2B6F36-A858-4C4C-8D33-1C34F93011A0@gmail.com> Thank you Ed. Lest we forget Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone On 25/04/2012, at 12:51 AM, "E. A. Driver" wrote: > A very pleasant ANZAC Day under the Southern > Cross > > Warm regards From jarowe at westnet.com.au Tue Apr 24 17:02:01 2012 From: jarowe at westnet.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 07:02:01 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] EBC Greenstuff anti-squeal In-Reply-To: <001401cd222b$7ac48510$704d8f30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <001401cd222b$7ac48510$704d8f30$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <4F9730E9.8080809@westnet.com.au> I haven't had any brake noise from EBC Greenstuff pads on my BT7 and have used quite a few pairs of Green and Red pads. My present set have the black backing yet previous ones have had the metal shim. The EBC pads are great. regards John Rowe Perth 1959 BT7 1949 Silverstone On 24/04/2012 11:03 PM, Simon Lachlan wrote: > Have just received new EBC pads for my MkII BT7. > > In the box was a plastic envelope containing four black adhesive pads/sheets > (3M 468 MP :- according to Google this stuff is a " High performance 200MP > pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive on 58 lb polycoated kraft paper liner. > High temperature formulation, solvent resistance, shear adhesion and HSE, > low LSE. Use for general industrial joining. 5.0 mil thick with 4.0 mil > liner.") The instructions say:- "Cut with scissors to shape required and > apply these shims to the reverse side (painted side) of the brake pads to > prevent brake noise. The fibre must cover all areas contacted by the > hydraulic pistons or the calliper supports". > > > > These were not supplied with previous pads. > > > > Does anyone have any experience with these pads?.... > > Are they effective? > > And/or are they more effective than the shaped metal shim type thingies that > I've used, with some success, until now? > > Or maybe I could/should(?) use the 3M pads AND the metal shim type thingies? > > > > I'll trot off and cut the pads to shape anyhow. I suspect that this stuff > won't cut too easily if it's that heat resistant...? > > > > Thanks, > > Simon. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jarowe at westnet.com.au From stevesylvia2 at comcast.net Tue Apr 24 20:09:29 2012 From: stevesylvia2 at comcast.net (Steven) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 19:09:29 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil Message-ID: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> Hi all, I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had an engine rebuild. I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist. Naturally I'm very cautious about what I put in my engine. Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results? Thanks in advance, Steve 61' BN7 From eyera3 at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 20:19:34 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 19:19:34 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> References: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> Message-ID: I think its great. I also use it as dash pod oil. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 24, 2012 7:09 PM, "Steven" wrote: > Hi all, > > I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had > an engine rebuild. I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to > clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist. Naturally I'm very > cautious about what I put in my engine. > > Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results? > > Thanks in advance, > Steve 61' BN7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Apr 24 20:20:26 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 19:20:26 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> References: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> Message-ID: I think its great. I also use it as dash pod oil. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 24, 2012 7:09 PM, "Steven" wrote: > Hi all, > > I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had > an engine rebuild. I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to > clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist. Naturally I'm very > cautious about what I put in my engine. > > Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results? > > Thanks in advance, > Steve 61' BN7 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From jackson_krall at yahoo.com Tue Apr 24 20:36:51 2012 From: jackson_krall at yahoo.com (Jackson Krall) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 19:36:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil Message-ID: <1335321411.73381.BPMail_high_carrier@web130201.mail.mud.yahoo.com> No joke (well, maybe), here in NYC, the Puerto Rican car community swears by it. I have a bottle I'm going to use in an old jeep engine that hasn't been started in years. Cheers JK ------------------------------ On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 10:09 PM EDT Steven wrote: >Hi all, > >I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had an engine rebuild. I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist. Naturally I'm very cautious about what I put in my engine. > >Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results? > >Thanks in advance, >Steve 61' BN7 >_______________________________________________ From healeymanjim at hansencc.net Tue Apr 24 20:49:25 2012 From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (healeymanjim at hansencc.net) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 02:49:25 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?marvel_mystery_oil?= Message-ID: <20120425024925.17063.qmail@server278.com> when i was a kid i remember my dad using it on the farm trucks and tractors, etc. when he ran out he would just use hydraulic fluid, which he said was about the same thing. not sure if he knew what he was talking about, but it seemed plausible at the time. hjim From amalin at mac.com Tue Apr 24 21:06:36 2012 From: amalin at mac.com (Al Malin) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 23:06:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> References: <4F975CD9.9060500@comcast.net> Message-ID: The Mystery Oil label says it's a "Top Cylinder Lubricant". After I noticed "Upper Cylinder Oil" is listed in "Recommended Lubricants" (page Q.1) I use it as a fuel additive. Al Malin On Apr 24, 2012, at 10:09 PM, Steven wrote: > Hi all, > > I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had an engine rebuild. I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist. Naturally I'm very cautious about what I put in my engine. > > Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results? > > Thanks in advance, > Steve 61' BN7 From medlabinc at msn.com Tue Apr 24 22:38:45 2012 From: medlabinc at msn.com (Dick Matson) Date: Tue, 24 Apr 2012 21:38:45 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil Message-ID: I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and Farmall tractor also - for years. The Continental engine in the airplane - and the Farmall engine too - ran great. So I still have a little left and add a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while. Doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Dick Matson / Bj8 ----- Original Message ----- From: Steven To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 7:09 PM Subject: [Healeys] Marvel Mystery Oil Hi all, I've got a 1961 BN7 with 72,000 miles and to my knowledge, it's never had an engine rebuild. I was thinking of adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean out carbon deposits that I'm sure must exist. Naturally I'm very cautious about what I put in my engine. Has anyone ever tried this stuff and if so, what were your results? Thanks in advance, Steve 61' BN7 From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Tue Apr 24 23:29:34 2012 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 00:29:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <549FB224AC5540DDA8AD5274347558ED@FredsLaptop> I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking: Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and reduces wear on the brakes Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in the sump. The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas values authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the fastest, but I sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!). A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 years ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less than 1%. Cheers, Fred a.k.a Team Healey Texas -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and Farmall tractor also - for years. The Continental engine in the airplane - and the Farmall engine too - ran great. So I still have a little left and add a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while. Doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Dick Matson / Bj8 From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Apr 25 00:48:43 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 07:48:43 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <549FB224AC5540DDA8AD5274347558ED@FredsLaptop> References: <549FB224AC5540DDA8AD5274347558ED@FredsLaptop> Message-ID: Fred Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower the overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant. Is it 100% castor oil that you buy? Derek On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley < fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com> wrote: > I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple > of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my > vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking: > > Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and > reduces wear on the brakes > Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was > in the sump. > > The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas > values authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the > fastest, but I sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments > here!). > > A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings > show minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about > 10 years ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still > less than 1%. > > Cheers, Fred > a.k.a Team Healey Texas > > -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson > Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM > To: AustinHealey List > Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil > > > I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. > > I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a > little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and > Farmall tractor also - for years. The Continental engine in the airplane - > and the Farmall engine too - ran great. So I still have a little left and > add > a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while. Doesn't > seem to hurt a thing. > > Dick Matson / Bj8 > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Wed Apr 25 01:27:56 2012 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 02:27:56 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: <549FB224AC5540DDA8AD5274347558ED@FredsLaptop> Message-ID: <13D3A9D20D544C4C85FAECE9D72043F6@FredsLaptop> Yup b 100% castor oil. With respect to octane ratings I donbt have a clue since Ibm using 110 leaded racing fuel. Maybe somebody with a bit of chemistry behind them can comment. In chemistry class, I volunteered to light the bunsen burner. Fred From: Derek Job Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:48 AM To: Fred Crowley Cc: AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil Fred Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower the overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant. Is it 100% castor oil that you buy? Derek On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley wrote: I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking: Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and reduces wear on the brakes Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in the sump. The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas values authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the fastest, but I sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!). A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 years ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less than 1%. Cheers, Fred a.k.a Team Healey Texas -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and Farmall tractor also - for years. The Continental engine in the airplane - and the Farmall engine too - ran great. So I still have a little left and add a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while. Doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Dick Matson / Bj8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Wed Apr 25 01:29:22 2012 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 02:29:22 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: <549FB224AC5540DDA8AD5274347558ED@FredsLaptop> Message-ID: Yup b 100% castor oil. With respect to octane ratings I donbt have a clue since Ibm using 110 leaded racing fuel. Maybe somebody with a bit of chemistry behind them can comment. In chemistry class, I volunteered to light the bunsen burner.. Fred From: Derek Job Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:48 AM To: Fred Crowley Cc: AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil Fred Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower the overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant. Is it 100% castor oil that you buy? Derek On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley wrote: I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my vintage racing '62 3000. Depending upon who's asking: Other Racers: It adds substantial horsepower, improves the handling, and reduces wear on the brakes Me: It smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in the sump. The main reason I do this is that our sanctioning body here in Texas values authenticity of presentation of the race cars. I may not be the fastest, but I sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!). A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 years ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less than 1%. Cheers, Fred a.k.a Team Healey Texas -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM To: AustinHealey List Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. I don't know if it's a placebo or if it is actually helpful but I used a little as a fuel additive in every fill up of my vintage airplane - and Farmall tractor also - for years. The Continental engine in the airplane - and the Farmall engine too - ran great. So I still have a little left and add a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while. Doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Dick Matson / Bj8 From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 25 04:56:35 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:56:35 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil References: Message-ID: > I'm with you Fred. > I put castor oil in my fuel too, when I'm at the track. Have since 1985 > My dad was a real fan of castor oil when we were kids. Fix any ailment. > By the tablespoon.... Sicker you were, more you got.... And he bought glass bottles of the stuff. Must have been on special... > That's what I still use. Dads new old stock... Glass bottles!! > And I can tell you. I'd rather the castor oil coming out of my Healey exhaust, rather than mine. > And the best smell?? The Healey's everytime!! > ;-) > And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in your fuel tank! > Methylated Spirits. > Best > Chris > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 25/04/2012, at 5:29 PM, "Fred Crowley" wrote: > >> Yup b 100% castor oil. With respect to octane ratings I donbt have a clue >> since Ibm using 110 leaded racing fuel.... >> Fred >> >> From: Derek Job >> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:48 AM >> To: Fred Crowley >> Cc: AustinHealey List >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil >> >> Fred >> >> Great stuff Fred. I love that smell. Unfortunately using Castrol racing oil >> means more frequent engine rebuilds as it gums up the works. Maybe a bit of >> castor oil in the fuel is the way to go. Presumably though this will lower the >> overall octane level. Or would the effect be insignificant. >> >> Is it 100% castor oil that you buy? >> >> Derek >> On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 6:29 AM, Fred Crowley >> wrote: >> >> I buy castor oil in a gallon container (off the internet) and add a couple >> of glugs (must be very precisely measured) to about 5 gallons of gas in my >> vintage racing '62 3000. >> smells real good, just like it was in the day when castor oil was in >> the sump. >> I may not be the fastest, but I >> sure smell authentic (there's a lot of leeway for comments here!). >> >> A side effect I've noticed is that cylinder bore wear, vales, and rings show >> minimal signs of wear. I built up the current engine in the car about 10 years >> ago. With 6-7 hard racing weekends a year, the leak down is still less than >> 1%. >> Cheers, Fred >> a.k.a Team Healey Texas >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Dick Matson >> Sent: Tuesday, April 24, 2012 11:38 PM >> To: AustinHealey List >> Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil >> >> I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. >> add >> a couple caps full in the Austin Healey gas tank once in a while. Doesn't >> seem to hurt a thing. >> >> Dick From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 25 05:15:40 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:15:40 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef: >> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I > still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in > your fuel tank! >> > Methylated Spirits. >> > Best >> > Chris >> > And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do. Kees Oudesluijs NL -- Kees Oudesluijs Dorpsstraat 183 2995XG Heerjansdam T: 078-677 1233 E: coudesluijs at chello.nl Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT Het Jensen Genootschap Holland www.jensenholland.nl From derek.c.job at gmail.com Wed Apr 25 05:27:07 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 12:27:07 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> References: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> Message-ID: Chris, How much is 'some'? I might give this a go. Derek On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef: > > And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I >>> >> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't >> want in >> your fuel tank! >> >>> > Methylated Spirits. >>> > Best >>> > Chris >>> > >>> >> > And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or > other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > -- > Kees Oudesluijs > Dorpsstraat 183 > 2995XG Heerjansdam > T: 078-677 1233 > E: coudesluijs at chello.nl > > Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT > Het Jensen Genootschap Holland > www.jensenholland.nl > > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 25 05:36:18 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:36:18 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> References: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees, half a cup of metho in 50 or 60 litres of 110 avgas is nothing like running an engine originally designed for 100 octane leaded fuel, on 91 octane E10 And that's imperial octane. Not US. Sincerely. Chris Sent from my iPhone On 25/04/2012, at 9:15 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > > Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef: >>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I >> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in >> your fuel tank! >>> > Methylated Spirits. >>> > Best >>> > Chris >>> > > > And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > -- > Kees Oudesluijs > Dorpsstraat 183 > 2995XG From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 25 05:41:11 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:41:11 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> Message-ID: <6F5FC022-FBF2-42C8-A16A-99D8F918530E@gmail.com> A dainty china tea cup, in a full tank, once a year Seriously. Or A kitchen measure of one cup. But I use one of my mothers old doulton china tea cups, which the handle has broken off!!! ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 25/04/2012, at 9:27 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Chris, > > How much is 'some'? > > I might give this a go. > > Derek > > On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 12:15 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef: > > And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I > still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in > your fuel tank! > > Methylated Spirits. > > Best > > Chris > > > > And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do. > Kees Oudesluijs > NL > > -- > Kees Oudesluijs > Dorpsstraat 183 > 2995XG Heerjansdam > T: 078-677 1233 > E: coudesluijs at chello.nl > > Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT > Het Jensen Genootschap Holland > www.jensenholland.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Apr 25 06:29:01 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 14:29:01 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> Message-ID: <4F97EE0D.6010406@chello.nl> Chris, It is not the running of the engine that is affected, but much more the side affects of alcohol in petrol, like corrosion of aluminium alloys, deterioration of rubber parts, loosening up dirt in tanks etc. I always hear Yanks complaining about. I never have experienced any of those troubles at all when e.g. lead free petrol ( 5% alcohol) was introduced in the 70's, apart from the odd fuel hose, or in these days when I use E10 in Germany in my Jensen Healey or every day car. Kees Oudesluijs Op 25-4-2012 13:36, Chris Dimmock schreef: > Kees, half a cup of metho in 50 or 60 litres of 110 avgas is nothing like running an engine originally designed for 100 octane leaded fuel, on 91 octane E10 > And that's imperial octane. Not US. > Sincerely. > Chris > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On 25/04/2012, at 9:15 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > >> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef: >>>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I >>> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in >>> your fuel tank! >>>>> Methylated Spirits. >>>>> Best >>>>> Chris >>>>> >> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do. >> Kees Oudesluijs >> NL >> >> -- >> Kees Oudesluijs >> Dorpsstraat 183 >> 2995XG > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4957 - datum van uitgifte: 04/24/12 From ahbn6 at verizon.net Wed Apr 25 06:33:31 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 08:33:31 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <6F5FC022-FBF2-42C8-A16A-99D8F918530E@gmail.com> References: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> <6F5FC022-FBF2-42C8-A16A-99D8F918530E@gmail.com> Message-ID: <067901cd22df$a0c15a90$e2440fb0$@verizon.net> Hyacinth Bucket would be appalled. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chris Dimmock Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:41 AM To: Derek Job Cc: AustinHealey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil A dainty china tea cup, in a full tank, once a year Seriously. Or A kitchen measure of one cup. But I use one of my mothers old doulton china tea cups, which the handle has broken off!!! ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 25/04/2012, at 9:27 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Chris, > > How much is 'some'? > > I might give this a go. > > Derek From frogeye at porterscustom.com Wed Apr 25 06:42:29 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:42:29 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oh yes, I frequently enjoy a glassful over ice with a dash of bitters and a celery stalk... dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil I acquired a 5-gallon 'drum' of Marvel Mystery Oil a long time ago. From austin.healey at gmail.com Wed Apr 25 06:59:08 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:59:08 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <4F97EE0D.6010406@chello.nl> References: <4F97DCDC.2000600@chello.nl> <4F97EE0D.6010406@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees, With all due respect, E10, as I understand it, is 10% ethanol. i.e. 5 litres of ethanol in every 50 litre tank of petrol. In every tank full. I'm sure at that level it would cause issues. I said one cup of metho in one tank of avgas 110 octane - once a year. And you have to use a Royal Doulton teacup. Proper British. ;-) Heres an analogy - as much as i like a drink, I'm sure we can all see the "health" differences between drinking 7 bottles of rum/scotch/ whatever every time we fill our Healey with fuel; versus drinking 1/5 - 1/4 of a bottle once a year!! ;-) Chris PS. It doesn't have to be Doulton. Any fine China will suffice. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 25/04/2012, at 10:29 PM, Oudesluys wrote: > Chris, > It is not the running of the engine that is affected, but much more the side affects of alcohol in petrol, like corrosion of aluminium alloys, deterioration of rubber parts, loosening up dirt in tanks etc. I always hear Yanks complaining about. > I never have experienced any of those troubles at all when e.g. lead free petrol ( 5% alcohol) was introduced in the 70's, apart from the odd fuel hose, or in these days when I use E10 in Germany in my Jensen Healey or every day car. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 25-4-2012 13:36, Chris Dimmock schreef: >> Kees, half a cup of metho in 50 or 60 litres of 110 avgas is nothing like running an engine originally designed for 100 octane leaded fuel, on 91 octane E10 >> And that's imperial octane. Not US. >> Sincerely. >> Chris >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On 25/04/2012, at 9:15 PM, Oudesluys wrote: >> >>> Op 25-4-2012 12:56, Chris Dimmock schreef: >>>>> And some metho. Metho absorbs water. Even though I have an alloy tank, I >>>> still put a cup of metho in every year. Absorbs water, which you don't want in >>>> your fuel tank! >>>>>> Methylated Spirits. >>>>>> Best >>>>>> Chris >>>>>> >>> And then you are all complaining about the modern fuels like E10!!!!! or other petrol/alcohol mixtures what damage they can do. >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> NL >>> >>> -- >>> Kees Oudesluijs >>> Dorpsstraat 183 >>> 2995XG >> >> ----- >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com >> Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4957 - datum van uitgifte: 04/24/12 From healeyrick at yahoo.com Wed Apr 25 07:07:58 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 06:07:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil In-Reply-To: <067901cd22df$a0c15a90$e2440fb0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <1335359278.62362.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> "It's 'Bouquet"!" Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Wed, 4/25/12, John Sims wrote: From: John Sims Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Fw: Marvel Mystery Oil To: "'Chris Dimmock'" , "'Derek Job'" Cc: "'AustinHealey List'" Date: Wednesday, April 25, 2012, 8:33 AM Hyacinth Bucket would be appalled. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From ggilliam at usol.com Wed Apr 25 11:43:40 2012 From: ggilliam at usol.com (ggilliam at usol.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 13:43:40 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Message-ID: <438c80a3eb4251c572f638b4e1efec34@usol.com> A friend of mine has a 1963 Daimler SP-250 for sale, a quirky looking car, the only one I have ever seen. Fiberglass panels, 4 valve hemi V-8 with 2 SU's, 4 wheel disc brakes, interior looks like a bunch of Healey components. It is in rough shape, but strange enough to be interesting. This car does not have a transmission in it, and from what I have read, it used a TR-3, or similar gearbox. My question is...any chance a Healey gearbox would bolt up to the engine? Regards, Gordy From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Apr 25 12:04:16 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 20:04:16 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 In-Reply-To: <438c80a3eb4251c572f638b4e1efec34@usol.com> References: <438c80a3eb4251c572f638b4e1efec34@usol.com> Message-ID: Hi Gordy, I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4 or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted. There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question: http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3 Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch. The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration. Regards, Josef Eckert Konigswintzer/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von ggilliam at usol.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 19:44 An: Healeys Betreff: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 A friend of mine has a 1963 Daimler SP-250 for sale, a quirky looking car, the only one I have ever seen. Fiberglass panels, 4 valve hemi V-8 with 2 SU's, 4 wheel disc brakes, interior looks like a bunch of Healey components. It is in rough shape, but strange enough to be interesting. This car does not have a transmission in it, and from what I have read, it used a TR-3, or similar gearbox. My question is...any chance a Healey gearbox would bolt up to the engine? Regards, Gordy $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com From JPayne at ThorCon.net Wed Apr 25 12:42:08 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 18:42:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 In-Reply-To: <2773a783-5634-4c0f-808f-5fd9bc25e4b0@blur> References: <2773a783-5634-4c0f-808f-5fd9bc25e4b0@blur> Message-ID: <28dff7a5-3b6d-4363-a984-5f6f806c3a4e@blur> Didnt these use a moss box? -----Original message----- From: "Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com" To: "ggilliam at usol.com" , "Healeys at autox.team.net" Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 18:04:34 GMT+00:00 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Hi Gordy, I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4 or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted. There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question: http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3 Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch. The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration. Regards, Josef Eckert Konigswintzer/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von ggilliam at usol.com Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 19:44 An: Healeys Betreff: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 A friend of mine has a 1963 Daimler SP-250 for sale, a quirky looking car, the only one I have ever seen. Fiberglass panels, 4 valve hemi V-8 with 2 SU's, 4 wheel disc brakes, interior looks like a bunch of Healey components. It is in rough shape, but strange enough to be interesting. This car does not have a transmission in it, and from what I have read, it used a TR-3, or similar gearbox. My question is...any chance a Healey gearbox would bolt up to the engine? Regards, Gordy $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/josef.eckert at t-systems.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpayne at thorcon.net From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Wed Apr 25 13:28:33 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:28:33 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 In-Reply-To: <28dff7a5-3b6d-4363-a984-5f6f806c3a4e@blur> References: <2773a783-5634-4c0f-808f-5fd9bc25e4b0@blur> <28dff7a5-3b6d-4363-a984-5f6f806c3a4e@blur> Message-ID: Jaguars had Moss boxes. But when the SP 250 was designed, Daimler was an independent manufacturer. Daimler simply copied for their SP 250 many parts of the TR3a as the chassis, suspension, gearbox and other parts . 1961 Daimler was bought from Jaguar and the Daimler V8 engine of the SP250 was also implemented into the Jaguar MK2 limousine and sold as Daimler 250 or V8. Josef Eckert Von: Jonas Payne [mailto:JPayne at ThorCon.net] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 20:42 An: Eckert, Josef; ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Didnt these use a moss box? -----Original message----- From: "Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com" > To: "ggilliam at usol.com" >, "Healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 18:04:34 GMT+00:00 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Hi Gordy, I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4 or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted. There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question: http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3 Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch. The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration. Regards, Josef Eckert Konigswintzer/Germany From richchrysler at quickclic.net Wed Apr 25 15:57:52 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 17:57:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Steering Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <2773a783-5634-4c0f-808f-5fd9bc25e4b0@blur> <28dff7a5-3b6d-4363-a984-5f6f806c3a4e@blur> Message-ID: <004101cd232e$76f751c0$64e5f540$@net> One thing I have noted that could be useful information to anybody working on an early adjustable steering Healey Hundred...the original adjustable steering wheel with the fatter hub section and small Bluemels locking ring is the same. Rich From JPayne at ThorCon.net Wed Apr 25 16:35:58 2012 From: JPayne at ThorCon.net (Jonas Payne) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:35:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 In-Reply-To: References: <2773a783-5634-4c0f-808f-5fd9bc25e4b0@blur> <28dff7a5-3b6d-4363-a984-5f6f806c3a4e@blur> Message-ID: <5891B364A7C3594B9466304B59E65B1C17484F3C@ex1mbx02.onthenetoffice.com> Just a thought Moss boxes ended up in a lot of orphans including Jensens, Bristols, Morgan +4 and +8 and others. Would seem a better match for the HP and torque of a V8 than any of triumphbs contemporary offerings? The comment about the healey clutch/pressure plate usage was interesting too b itbs common to the Morgan +4bs as well Jonas Payne PBR Cell: (702) 358-5084 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com [mailto:Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 12:29 PM To: Jonas Payne; Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Daimler SP-250 Jaguars had Moss boxes. But when the SP 250 was designed, Daimler was an independent manufacturer. Daimler simply copied for their SP 250 many parts of the TR3a as the chassis, suspension, gearbox and other parts . 1961 Daimler was bought from Jaguar and the Daimler V8 engine of the SP250 was also implemented into the Jaguar MK2 limousine and sold as Daimler 250 or V8. Josef Eckert Von: Jonas Payne [mailto:JPayne at ThorCon.net] Gesendet: Mittwoch, 25. April 2012 20:42 An: Eckert, Josef; ggilliam at usol.com; Healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Didnt these use a moss box? -----Original message----- From: "Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com" > To: "ggilliam at usol.com" >, "Healeys at autox.team.net" > Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2012 18:04:34 GMT+00:00 Subject: [Healeys] Daimler SP-250 Hi Gordy, I own a SP 250 aside my Healeys and I can a assure you the Healey gearbox wouldn`t fit. As far as I know there is a chance to modify a Triumph TR (TR4 or TR6) gearbox to make it fit. Or a Borg/Warner automatic as fitted to the Daimler 250 limousines. SP 250 police cars had those fitted. There is a very good Daimler forum were you can also place your question: http://www.dlcentre.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3 Btw. The SP250 uses the 9" BN1 clutch. The SP250 easily outdistances any stock Healey in acceleration. Regards, Josef Eckert Konigswintzer/Germany From shop at justbrits.com Wed Apr 25 21:01:34 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2012 22:01:34 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine block ! ! ! Message-ID: <4F98BA8E.4040306@justbrits.com> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Block-Austin-Healey-100-/140741673568?_trksid=p4340.m503&_trkparms=algo%3DRIC.CFNP%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D180863806998%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7982940035212437156 OR *http://tinyurl.com/74qlcgg* Close to me if shipping help required ! ! Also, scroll down above page for MORE 100 'stuff' ! ! NFI, NO knowledge of products NOR seller (could be investigated tho ). Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From varley at cosmos.net.au Thu Apr 26 02:44:42 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:44:42 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Accu Spark kit Message-ID: <4F990AFA.4090100@cosmos.net.au> Hi Guys, has anyone had experience with the Accu Spark distributor conversion for pointless operation on a BT7? I bought a kit out of curiosity, which was quite cheep and found that the firing ring that fits over the distributor cam, is quite a loose fit and can rotate a little on the cam, so I can't see how it could maintain regular timing. Has anyone successfully used this kit? The concept looked good as there are basically no modifications or extra wiring, and the sender unit fits well on the points plate. Cheers Larry From austin.healey at gmail.com Thu Apr 26 03:04:16 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:04:16 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Accu Spark kit In-Reply-To: <4F990AFA.4090100@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F990AFA.4090100@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: Hey Larry, No. But I too have watched with interest. At the moment, their "replacement" distributors look like they are great value, but they seem to only offer one cam. 16 degrees. That's 32 engine degrees. That means you can add 2 - 4 static. Won't let you start on a modern fuel with a modified engine. Look on eBay. Lots of dizzy graphs. But all the same... I emailed when they first came out, but parts aren't interchangeable with original Lucas. Can't help with the electronic side. I really thought they were onto something. But I think it's just been tweaked to be proprietary and not really interchangeable. Bet it's not loose in their version of a Lucas dizzy.... Try Pertronics. They do positive earth too. ;-) Chris Sent from my iPhone On 26/04/2012, at 6:44 PM, Larry Varley wrote: > Hi Guys, has anyone had experience with the Accu Spark distributor conversion for pointless operation on a BT7? I bought a kit out of curiosity, which was quite cheep and found that the firing ring that fits over the distributor cam, is quite a loose fit and can rotate a little on the cam, so I can't see how it could maintain regular timing. Has anyone successfully used this kit? The concept looked good as there are basically no modifications or extra wiring, and the sender unit fits well........ From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Apr 26 03:16:34 2012 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Oudesluys) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 11:16:34 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] Accu Spark kit In-Reply-To: <4F990AFA.4090100@cosmos.net.au> References: <4F990AFA.4090100@cosmos.net.au> Message-ID: <4F991272.2060204@chello.nl> These are cheap and cheerful units. I have not heard of failures yet, but the loose fit seems to occur sometimes. Just apply a little sealant and rotate the ring until it hits the cam properly and secure it. Let the sealant cure fully. This will centre the ring and keep it fixed on the cam without play. It is more or less the same system as from Petronix and Luminition. Kees Oudesluijs Op 26-4-2012 10:44, Larry Varley schreef: > Hi Guys, has anyone had experience with the Accu Spark distributor > conversion for pointless operation on a BT7? I bought a kit out of > curiosity, which was quite cheep and found that the firing ring that > fits over the distributor cam, is quite a loose fit and can rotate a > little on the cam, so I can't see how it could maintain regular > timing. Has anyone successfully used this kit? The concept looked good > as there are basically no modifications or extra wiring, and the > sender unit fits well on the points plate. > Cheers > Larry > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > ----- > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht. > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com > Versie: 2012.0.1913 / Virusdatabase: 2411/4959 - datum van uitgifte: > 04/25/12 > > -- Kees Oudesluijs Dorpsstraat 183 2995XG Heerjansdam T: 078-677 1233 E: coudesluijs at chello.nl Technische commissie Jensen Healey en GT Het Jensen Genootschap Holland www.jensenholland.nl From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Thu Apr 26 11:06:00 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:06:00 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals Message-ID: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Hi, Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the piston. Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new ones are square in cross section. Simon From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 26 11:58:55 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 10:58:55 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals In-Reply-To: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120426105735.02108d20@pop.att.yahoo.com> I fit them to the bottom of piston then fit them to the caliper and push the piston into the bore if I recall correctly. John At 06:06 PM 4/26/2012 +0100, Simon Lachlan wrote: >Hi, > >Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into >my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go >into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the >piston. > >Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new >ones are square in cross section. > >Simon >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com Thu Apr 26 12:10:56 2012 From: Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com (Josef.Eckert at t-systems.com) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:10:56 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals In-Reply-To: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: Hi Simon, I have just done it with mine. Fit the rubber boot first with its lip to the caliper. When the lip is properly in the groove, then push the piston in the caliper and when its nearly at the end of travel the lip automatically jumps in the groove of the piston. The most fiddling is to get the first step done - rubber boot to caliper and to get the piston in passing the inner rubber sealing ring. I use some Penrite rubber grease and grease the rubber boot and sealing ring before fitting. You need most of the time for the first one to get the trick. Josef Eckert Konigswinter/Germany -----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht----- Von: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] Im Auftrag von Simon Lachlan Gesendet: Donnerstag, 26. April 2012 19:06 An: healeys at autox.team.net Betreff: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals Hi, Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the piston. Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new ones are square in cross section. Simon From eandy01 at msn.com Thu Apr 26 12:23:20 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:23:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 + In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I should have asked this when it was the hot topic of the week. I noticed that nearly everyone who had got their Healey over the ton had mentioned the too light front end except the one who got to 160 something. Anyone know what that person did to hold down front? The only thing I can think of that might work would be a spoiler mounted on top of shroud in front of hood ( pref removeable ) so air pressure would hold front down. Yes-no? From eandy01 at msn.com Thu Apr 26 12:28:02 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:28:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Rear end mods In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Was at mechanic's shop this a.m. to see leaf springs gone, coil over Koni's in and calipers and discs in. BEAUTIFUL Took pics and will post w/total cost soon. Anxious to try it out. From s.hutchings at rogers.com Thu Apr 26 12:54:23 2012 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 14:54:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] e: fitting piston/caliper seals Message-ID: Hi Simon, Josef's done a good job of explaining this procedure, but I'd add a caution. After having done this job a number of times over the years, I found the last set I did kept wanting to pinch the edge of the outer seal before it could slide up to the groove in the piston. I'd never had that happen before, and I wonder if some of the new seals don't quite have an even, round edge. It's worth having a good look at the edge of the outer seal before doing the installation. Stephen, BJ8 From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Thu Apr 26 13:10:14 2012 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 14:10:14 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 + In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <32098705192E414C82E92FB8E1877EB9@FredsLaptop> On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid (relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return than coping with a lower ground clearance. Y'all take care, eh? Fred a.k. Team Healey Texas -----Original Message----- From: EDWARD ANDERSON Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:23 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 + I should have asked this when it was the hot topic of the week. I noticed that nearly everyone who had got their Healey over the ton had mentioned the too light front end except the one who got to 160 something. Anyone know what that person did to hold down front? The only thing I can think of that might work would be a spoiler mounted on top of shroud in front of hood ( pref removeable ) so air pressure would hold front down. Yes-no? From derek.c.job at gmail.com Thu Apr 26 13:23:11 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:23:11 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey Message-ID: Hi all, I've created a page on my website for my new car. Photos and full spec can be found here http://www.healeysix.net/My%20Fast%20Road%20100-Six.htm Next up is a fixed back sports seat with head restraint and a breather catch tank. Then I'm almost ready to make a fool of myself in competition! Derek www.healeysix.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Apr 26 14:02:03 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:02:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 + In-Reply-To: <32098705192E414C82E92FB8E1877EB9@FredsLaptop> Message-ID: <372032907.1445183.1335470523419.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> "Y'all take care, eh?" Canadexan, or a Texanadian? Canooxan? Texanook? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid (relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return than coping with a lower ground clearance. Y'all take care, eh? Fred a.k. Team Healey Texas From dos_gusanos at msn.com Thu Apr 26 14:03:05 2012 From: dos_gusanos at msn.com (Henry Morrison) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 14:03:05 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] 100 + In-Reply-To: <32098705192E414C82E92FB8E1877EB9@FredsLaptop> References: , , <32098705192E414C82E92FB8E1877EB9@FredsLaptop> Message-ID: C'mon, lots of 80 mph stuff in West Texas. Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM > From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 14:10:14 -0500 > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 + > > On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to > around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the > front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition > springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid > (relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car > looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only > made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to > be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me > tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top > out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability > over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that > I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective > might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good > shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return > than coping with a lower ground clearance. > > Y'all take care, eh? > Fred > a.k. Team Healey Texas > > -----Original Message----- > From: EDWARD ANDERSON > Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:23 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 + > > I should have asked this when it was the hot topic of the week. I noticed > that > nearly everyone who had got their Healey over the ton had mentioned the too > light front end except the one who got to 160 something. Anyone know what > that > person did to hold down front? The only thing I can think of that might work > would be a spoiler mounted on top of shroud in front of hood ( pref > removeable > ) so air pressure would hold front down. Yes-no? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/dos_gusanos at msn.com From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Apr 26 18:31:30 2012 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:31:30 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals In-Reply-To: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: All caliper seals are square section o-rings. They get that tapered look after they have been in use for a long time. It is the deflection of the seal, and its return to it's normal shape, that pulls the piston back after you let off the brakes. After many years the seal becomes permanently deformed. The trick for getting the boot to open up and fit around the piston (after the initial fitting of the boot lip into the caliper bore) is to apply air, at a very low pressure, to inflate the boot as you press the piston into the boot. Of course, you have to first block off the other side by installing a piston and clamping it in place so it doesn't blow blow out when you apply the air. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 18:06:00 +0100 > Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals > > Hi, > > Can someone kindly remind me of the proper/easiest way to fit the seals into > my MkII BT7's callipers? I'm referring to the rubber boot things that go > into the outer groove within the bore and the groove around the top of the > piston. > > Likewise, don't I recall that the inner seal was slightly tapered? My new > ones are square in cross section. > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Thu Apr 26 18:50:33 2012 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:50:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting again In-Reply-To: <20120422102530.CKKH4.2565.root@pamxwww04-z01> References: <4F941041.3050802@htcnet.org>, <20120422102530.CKKH4.2565.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: Sometimes oil mist gets up into the distributor and affects the points .... creating a misfire. A simple check is to take a business card and drag it through the points when they are closed. If you see a smudge on the card, it is oil. That will temporarily fix the problem. This actually happens frequently when you use synthetic oil as it can get past the bushings and up into the top of the distributor and cause misfiring. . A good fix for that is to remove the distributor, invert it, and spray brake clean up into it to flush out the oil film and residue. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Sun, 22 Apr 2012 10:25:30 -0400 > From: tomfelts at windstream.net > To: javrugtman at htcnet.org; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spitting again > > Thanks John---I forgot to mention that I also changed all plugs-------- > > I guess it could be a fuel starvation problem---maybe the FP is working intermittently. > > tom > ---- John Vrugtman wrote: > > ============= > Bad plug? > > On 4/22/2012 8:32 AM, Tom Felts wrote: > > Thought I had discovered why my BJ8 was missing. I had found a stuck pin in the dist cap and grease on the rotor contact, so cleaned everything up and miss stopped------for a while--then a little more missing. Replaced the dist cap and all wires, rotor---ran great for a while then missing. Now missing pretty bad. > > > > So far: > > I have replaced the rotor--no change > > Replaced the dist cap--NC > > replaced the wires--NC > > Replaced the end caps on the wires---NC > > Replaced the coil---NC (Lucus Sport) > > > > Havent replaced the Pertronix (10 + years) since, as I understand it, when they go it is all of a sudden and you get no spark. > > > > Anyone have any ideas as to what to persue next------I hear the FP pumping so assume there is sufficient fuel to the carbs. > > > > Also---I have checked the float bowls and they have fuel in them and are not stuck. > > > > Thanks > > tom > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 26 19:34:07 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 19:34:07 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Spitting again In-Reply-To: References: <4F941041.3050802@htcnet.org>, <20120422102530.CKKH4.2565.root@pamxwww04-z01> Message-ID: <4F99F78F.7050408@bradakis.com> I like how the heater valve is right above the distributor on certain cars, not that I'd want to speak ill of MGBs or anything. A little leaking water can cause problems. As for the BJ8 I mentioned the other day, it is running fine now, after I replaced the points, condenser, rotor and cap on the Mallory dual point. They are supposed to run better after I work on them, you know. mjb. From cleona44 at hotmail.com Thu Apr 26 19:39:47 2012 From: cleona44 at hotmail.com (Jim Lesher) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:39:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: THAT IS SOME GOOD LOOKIN 100-SIX!!!!! > Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 20:23:11 +0100 > From: derek.c.job at gmail.com > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey > > Hi all, > > I've created a page on my website for my new car. Photos and full spec can > be found here > > http://www.healeysix.net/My%20Fast%20Road%20100-Six.htm > > Next up is a fixed back sports seat with head restraint and a breather > catch tank. Then I'm almost ready to make a fool of myself in competition! > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cleona44 at hotmail.com From fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com Thu Apr 26 20:25:09 2012 From: fredcrowley at teamhealeytexas.com (Fred Crowley) Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2012 21:25:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 + In-Reply-To: <372032907.1445183.1335470523419.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <372032907.1445183.1335470523419.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Nope, just part of the bEh?b Team. Fred From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, April 26, 2012 3:02 PM To: Fred Crowley Cc: Healey List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 + "Y'all take care, eh?" Canadexan, or a Texanadian? Canooxan? Texanook? Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- On my race '62 3000, at Texas World Speedway, I regularly get the car up to around 130 mph at the end of the start/finish straight. I've lowered the front end about 1 1/2 inches and the rear about 3/8", use competition springs up front and comp leaf springs in back (D. Welch). Rock solid (relatively speaking - it is an old english bus after all). Lowering the car looks good and has stabilized the car at speed, but of course this has only made ground clearance even worse. No problem at the track, but one needs to be more conscious of obstructions on the street. An obvious question to me tho', do y'all want to do a 100mph with a street car. Most speed limits top out @70 (75 in west Texas), so I would think that a little better stability over a 100 would be a non-issue at legal speeds (be aware of course that I've sucked up a lot of 110 octane fuel over the years so my perspective might be a tad different)????? Good tires and a solid suspension (good shocks, springs, alignment and camber) would probably give a better return than coping with a lower ground clearance. Y'all take care, eh? Fred a.k. Team Healey Texas From magnuskarlsson at bornet.net Thu Apr 26 22:47:03 2012 From: magnuskarlsson at bornet.net (Magnus Karlsson) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 06:47:03 +0200 Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals In-Reply-To: References: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <43B697F5-6DB2-415F-8B2D-66910A005E00@bornet.net> One method of fitting the boot is to first slide it over the piston and then fit the boot lip into the caliper bore. That way it's very simple to press home the piston with the boot in the correct position both in the caliper and and around the piston. Magnus Karlsson www.concourshealeys.com From glemon at neb.rr.com Thu Apr 26 23:02:45 2012 From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 00:02:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] fitting piston/caliper seals In-Reply-To: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000901cd23ce$dba04000$92e0c000$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <555E1F59CA064062875487482805F31A@GregPC> I couldn't get the first set I bought to fit no matter what I tried, got a second set and they went in easy, when I got the second set it was clear the first was not very well made, I believe the 2nd set which fit well was Beck-Arnley Greg Lemon From varley at cosmos.net.au Fri Apr 27 00:58:37 2012 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:58:37 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Photos of my new Healey In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F9A439D.2010504@cosmos.net.au> And what a fine looking car it is! Happy motoring Larry On 27/04/2012 5:23 AM, Derek Job wrote: > Hi all, > > I've created a page on my website for my new car. Photos and full spec can > be found here > > http://www.healeysix.net/My%20Fast%20Road%20100-Six.htm > > Next up is a fixed back sports seat with head restraint and a breather > catch tank. Then I'm almost ready to make a fool of myself in competition! > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/varley at cosmos.net.au From healeyron at yahoo.com Fri Apr 27 06:48:32 2012 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 05:48:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 3.54 Ring & Pinion has arrived Message-ID: <1335530912.56453.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> General Info for those that have purchased the 3.54:1 Ring & Pinion from Dan Lempert. I received mine via Fed Ex yesterday afternoon (April 26th). Dan had emailed a request to everyone that placed an order to confirm their shipping address to him. Ron Mitchell Goodrich, MI From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 07:31:09 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 09:31:09 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells Message-ID: Oh Wise Ones, I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a very original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the reassembly. I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally painted white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may have been original because the white paint was only on body components which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical components which would have been installed later at Longbridge. This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump boxes or springs, etc etc. Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey Blue BN1? -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 08:02:40 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 15:02:40 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mike Does your car have an all aluminium body? Weren't the first 200 or so production models still bodied that way Derek www.healeysix.net On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 2:31 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > Oh Wise Ones, > > I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a very > original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During > the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the > reassembly. > I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he > commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally painted > white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may > have been original because the white paint was only on body components > which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical components > which would have been installed later at Longbridge. > This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been > done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no > evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts > holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump > boxes or springs, etc etc. > Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey > Blue BN1? > > > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 08:09:21 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:09:21 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Derek, No this car has steel fenders and doors but aluminum boot and bonnet skins (steel frames). I'm by no means an expert on these early cars but as I understand it only the first 20 (pre-production) cars had all aluminum skins. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 10:02 AM, Derek Job wrote: > Mike > > Does your car have an all aluminium body? Weren't the first 200 or so > production models still bodied that way > > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > > > > On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 2:31 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > >> Oh Wise Ones, >> >> I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a >> very >> original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During >> the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the >> reassembly. >> I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he >> commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally >> painted >> white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may >> have been original because the white paint was only on body components >> which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical >> components >> which would have been installed later at Longbridge. >> This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been >> done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no >> evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts >> holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump >> boxes or springs, etc etc. >> Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey >> Blue BN1? >> >> >> -- >> Michael Salter From derek.c.job at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 09:23:55 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:23:55 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks Michael, I knew about the 20 pre-production cars but read somewhere that the very early production cars continued with it. I guess it was just the boot and bonnets that were continued. Derek On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 3:09 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Derek, > No this car has steel fenders and doors but aluminum boot and bonnet skins > (steel frames). > I'm by no means an expert on these early cars but as I understand it only > the first 20 (pre-production) cars had all aluminum skins. > > > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > > > On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 10:02 AM, Derek Job wrote: > >> Mike >> >> Does your car have an all aluminium body? Weren't the first 200 or so >> production models still bodied that way >> >> >> Derek >> www.healeysix.net >> >> >> >> On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 2:31 PM, Michael Salter > > wrote: >> >>> Oh Wise Ones, >>> >>> I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a >>> very >>> original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. >>> During >>> the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the >>> reassembly. >>> I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he >>> commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally >>> painted >>> white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may >>> have been original because the white paint was only on body components >>> which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical >>> components >>> which would have been installed later at Longbridge. >>> This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have >>> been >>> done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no >>> evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts >>> holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump >>> boxes or springs, etc etc. >>> Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey >>> Blue BN1? >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Michael Salter From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Apr 27 10:49:09 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:49:09 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Brake calliper seals Message-ID: <000901cd2495$aae12020$00a36060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Many thanks for all the replies. Well, I was doing almost everything right.....I've always managed before by sliding the boot over the cylinder, locating the seal into the piston and easing(!??**?) the piston inwards and finally locating the boot on the piston. Regarding the "almost everything", I had not noticed that the seals within the pistons, as supplied with the new kit, were simply too big. Luckily I had a pile of old ones and was able to go back to the original smaller size. So, check the seals' size and save yourself some trouble. I used LM grease as a lubricant which, hopefully will be flushed out in the bleeding/fluid renewal process. A footnote on the inner seals' profile. I remembered them as being tapered and did find a reference to this in the Haynes manual: "9) To reassemble, first fit the internal seal, previously wetted with Castrol Girling Brake Fluid, into the groove in the cylinder bore with the scraping edge (smaller diameter) innermost". Simon From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Fri Apr 27 11:30:00 2012 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 10:30:00 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil plug washer Message-ID: <7F5F48D4B6B0496FA5B347D6FFB4E026@XPS400> Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss. I assume I can get one of the proper size locally. Thanks, Ron Fine From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Apr 27 12:03:16 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 18:03:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Oil plug washer In-Reply-To: <7F5F48D4B6B0496FA5B347D6FFB4E026@XPS400> Message-ID: <1832872877.1488924.1335549796219.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm). Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' with a propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss. I assume I can get one of the proper size locally. Thanks, Ron Fine From MBran89793 at aol.com Fri Apr 27 12:26:19 2012 From: MBran89793 at aol.com (MBran89793 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 14:26:19 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Oil plug washer Message-ID: <37ed7.1063a4f1.3ccc3ecb@aol.com> Hi Bob- FYI Just confirmed that 3/4" is correct. (Measured drain plug and washer.) Marion Brantley In a message dated 4/27/2012 2:13:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bspidell at comcast.net writes: I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm). Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' with a propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new. Bob -------------------------------- Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA ----- Original Message ----- Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss. I assume I can get one of the proper size locally. Thanks, Ron Fine Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mbran89793 at aol.com From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 27 12:41:06 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 11:41:06 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil plug washer In-Reply-To: <1832872877.1488924.1335549796219.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.eme ryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <7F5F48D4B6B0496FA5B347D6FFB4E026@XPS400> <1832872877.1488924.1335549796219.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120427113716.020dbd80@pop.att.yahoo.com> 25/32" ID, 1-3/32 OD, .06 thick. Take your plug down to the hardware store. John At 06:03 PM 4/27/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote: >I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm). > >Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' >with a propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new. > > >Bob > > >-------------------------------- >Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA > >----- Original Message ----- > > >Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the oil >drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from Moss. >I assume I can get one of the proper size locally. > >Thanks, > >Ron Fine >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Apr 27 13:10:01 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 20:10:01 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block Message-ID: <000601cd24a9$58b9ffb0$0a2dff10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the company that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass fuses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private purchase, not from the manufacturer. Simon. From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Apr 27 13:34:48 2012 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 12:34:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Plug Washer Message-ID: <027501cd24ac$cfcbb0a0$6f6311e0$@com> Ron, Don't have the diameter, but if the washer is copper or aluminum you can anneal it and re-use it. Copper - heat on the stove until it glows, then quench it in water. For aluminum, heat it up then let it air-cool - do not quench. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From ed at wadsworth-eng.com Fri Apr 27 14:05:32 2012 From: ed at wadsworth-eng.com (Ed O'Neal) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 20:05:32 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 3.54 Ring & Pinion has arrived In-Reply-To: <1335530912.56453.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1335530912.56453.YahooMailNeo@web161001.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Received my sets today also. Edward J. O'Neal, P.E., Pte. Wadsworth O'Neal Bacik, Inc. 6418 Commerce Park Drive Fort Myers, Florida 33966 ed at wadsworth-eng.com (239) 454-5511 (239) 454-4501 fax -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Mitchell Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 8:49 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 3.54 Ring & Pinion has arrived General Info for those that have purchased the 3.54:1 Ring & Pinion from Dan Lempert. I received mine via Fed Ex yesterday afternoon (April 26th). Dan had emailed a request to everyone that placed an order to confirm their shipping address to him. Ron Mitchell Goodrich, MI $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ed at wadsworth-eng.com From csooch1 at aol.com Fri Apr 27 14:32:01 2012 From: csooch1 at aol.com (chris.masucci@alumni.rutgers.edu) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:32:01 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block In-Reply-To: <000601cd24a9$58b9ffb0$0a2dff10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000601cd24a9$58b9ffb0$0a2dff10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: <8CEF2CBEF1A80C5-14DC-91FE@web-mmc-d08.sysops.aol.com> I'm interested in this information as well. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Simon Lachlan To: healeys Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2012 3:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the ompany that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass uses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private urchase, not from the manufacturer. Simon. uggested annual donation $12.75 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.ed u From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 15:01:49 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 14:01:49 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block In-Reply-To: <8CEF2CBEF1A80C5-14DC-91FE@web-mmc-d08.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CEF2CBEF1A80C5-14DC-91FE@web-mmc-d08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Charlie Hart hartcg at msn.com On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 1:32 PM, chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.edu < csooch1 at aol.com> wrote: > I'm interested in this information as well. > > Cheers, > Chris > BJ8 > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Simon Lachlan > To: healeys > Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2012 3:26 pm > Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block > > > Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the > ompany that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass > uses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private > urchase, not from the manufacturer. > Simon. > uggested annual donation $12.75 > rchive: http://www.team.net/archive > orums: http://www.team.net/forums > Healeys at autox.team.net > ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.ed > u > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From ahbn6 at verizon.net Fri Apr 27 15:19:45 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:19:45 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block In-Reply-To: <8CEF2CBEF1A80C5-14DC-91FE@web-mmc-d08.sysops.aol.com> References: <000601cd24a9$58b9ffb0$0a2dff10$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> <8CEF2CBEF1A80C5-14DC-91FE@web-mmc-d08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <085b01cd24bb$78768550$69638ff0$@verizon.net> Charlie Hart at: hartcg at msn.com The one that he makes can be seen at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fuse%20Block.pdf I understand that he is making one up for a BJ8 which I understand may have to be a little different than the one that I put on my BN6. I just say that this was the easiest installation that I have made in a long time. Charlie also makes some other doodads that are great to have such as: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Hart.pdf John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.edu Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 4:32 PM To: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block I'm interested in this information as well. Cheers, Chris BJ8 -----Original Message----- From: Simon Lachlan To: healeys Sent: Fri, Apr 27, 2012 3:26 pm Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block Can someone kindly give me the contact details, preferably email, for the ompany that manufactures the 7 way fuse box which takes Lucas style glass uses and fits right into our 3000s? I have one, but it was a private urchase, not from the manufacturer. Simon. From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Fri Apr 27 16:40:14 2012 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:40:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Auminum cylinder head - cracked vave seat Message-ID: I just discovered that the cylinder head on my race motor has a cracked valve seat. It is the 6 cylinder aluminum head with the figure "8" style of valve seats. The casing number on the head is AEC 721. Has anyone successfully replaced or repaired one of these seats? Anyone out there had any experience with this issue? Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon From RonFineEsq at earthlink.net Fri Apr 27 17:07:50 2012 From: RonFineEsq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:07:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Oil plug washer References: <7F5F48D4B6B0496FA5B347D6FFB4E026@XPS400> <1832872877.1488924.1335549796219.JavaMail.root@sz0054a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <6.2.3.4.2.20120427113716.020dbd80@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <559F9E1D146343229DF542DAAA7F8B93@XPS400> Thanks. My only existing plug is on my car. I hate to lose all my fresh oil. I did try to anneal the existing washer without much success. That's why I am going to try to do a quick switch with my finger in the dike so to speak. Ron ----- Original Message ----- From: "john spaur" To: "Ron Fine" Cc: Sent: Friday, April 27, 2012 11:41 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil plug washer > 25/32" ID, 1-3/32 OD, .06 thick. Take your plug down to the hardware > store. > > John > > At 06:03 PM 4/27/2012 +0000, Bob Spidell wrote: >>I think it's 3/4" ID (hopefully, someone can un/confirm). >> >>Or, you can just anneal the one you have: heat it to 'cherry red' with a >>propane torch and let cool. Will seal as good as new. >> >> >>Bob >> >> >>-------------------------------- >>Bob Spidell - San Jose, CA >> >>----- Original Message ----- >> >> >>Can someone give me the dimensions for the copper washer used to seal the >>oil >>drain plug on BN7? I need a new one and don't have time to order from >>Moss. >>I assume I can get one of the proper size locally. >> >>Thanks, >> >>Ron Fine >>_______________________________________________ >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >>Healeys at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >>Unsubscribe/Manage: >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From steveg at abrazosdata.com Fri Apr 27 17:39:44 2012 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 16:39:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions Message-ID: <027f01cd24cf$094724a0$1bd56de0$@com> Can anyone direct me to info on how to remove and replace the weatherstrip on the aluminum side curtains? Does one just remove the mounting screws that are in line with the rubber as well as the small Philips screw at the top? If I do that, can I slide the old rubber out and slide the new one in? Do I use soap for lube? -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 17:50:18 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 19:50:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That's all very well but it doesn't help with my white wheel wells!!! :-) -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 7:16 PM, Curt/Nancy Arndt wrote: > Listers, > > We know that Blair Harbor's # 23 the very first production car was all > aluminum, Birmabright to be specific, so we can possibly conclude that the > other cars that came from Jensen in that batch, numbers 21 and 22 were also > all aluminum. I believe that the lorry's that transported the cars from > Jensen to Longbridge held at least three cars at a time? Someone correct > me if I'm wrong. > > I have been told that only the first 50 cars were aluminum but I > personally don't believe that number. Don't ask me why. > > FYI it's the first 200 XK-120 Jaguars that were all aluminum. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 8:23 AM, Derek Job wrote: > >> Thanks Michael, >> >> I knew about the 20 pre-production cars but read somewhere that the very >> early production cars continued with it. I guess it was just the boot and >> bonnets that were continued. >> >> Derek From healey.nut at gmail.com Fri Apr 27 18:11:39 2012 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 08:11:39 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael - Some perspective here. In 1952 and 53, metallic paints were two things: 1) More expensive 2) More unstable. White paint was the opposite - very stable and actually a good base to spray over with light metallic color later. Also some early cars also had black engine bays if I'm not mistaken, Rich will know. Probably the demand was high for the mettallic blue and they decided to respray the car to a customer's order, and took a car from Jensens that had been partially painted white. Cheers, Alan On 4/27/12, Michael Salter wrote: > Oh Wise Ones, > > I'm starting on the restoration of my very early BN1 (#174). This is a very > original and sound, apparently low mileage but badly weathered car. During > the dis-assembly process I took about 500 photos of details to aid in the > reassembly. > I was showing these to a very patient and Rich Chrysler yesterday and he > commented that the wheel wells appeared to all have been originally painted > white which seemed odd. Upon closer examination it appears that this may > have been original because the white paint was only on body components > which would have been installed at Jensens and not on mechanical components > which would have been installed later at Longbridge. > This is a Healey Blue car and I'm wondering if this may actually have been > done in the factory. It is a pretty rudimentary "quick shot" with no > evidence of masking but no white on things like the steering column, nuts > holding the turn signal relay, the original front shocks, the real bump > boxes or springs, etc etc. > Just wondering if anyone else has encountered this on a very early Healey > Blue BN1? > > > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -- Sent from my mobile device From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 27 19:10:20 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 21:10:20 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Early BN1 white wheel wells Message-ID: <000401cd24db$ae8df8b0$0ba9ea10$@net> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells Research seems to indicate that the earliest production cars had alloy fenders and panels all around. Just for reference sake the first production car was BN1L 138031 which was Jensen's consecutive Body number 24. It is reported that as early as Body number 29, the rear fenders were already apparently steel, with steel front fenders following closely after. I don't know how quickly steel doors followed, but within the next few cars. Alloy bonnets continued into May of 1954 and steel boot lids into June of '54. Rich Chrysler Hundred Registrar -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Derek Job Sent: 2012-04-27 11:24 To: Michael Salter Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells Thanks Michael, I knew about the 20 pre-production cars but read somewhere that the very early production cars continued with it. I guess it was just the boot and bonnets that were continued. Derek From ynotink at msn.com Fri Apr 27 19:28:21 2012 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 01:28:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake calliper seals In-Reply-To: <000901cd2495$aae12020$00a36060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> References: <000901cd2495$aae12020$00a36060$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Message-ID: Simon, Please define "LM grease". If it is not the rubber grease as is sometimes supplied in hydraulic rebuild kits then I would advise against using it. No petroleum product should ever be used on the fluid side of a conventional braking system. A petroleum lubricant will destroy your seals very quickly. I had an oil leak on a Land Rover that soaked the boot on the clutch slave cylinder. The boot swelled to about three times it's normal size in a couple of days. Rubber grease on the other hand is compounded from the same materials as brake fluid. Bill Lawrence > From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 17:49:09 +0100 > Subject: [Healeys] Brake calliper seals > > Many thanks for all the replies. Well, I was doing almost everything > right.....I've always managed before by sliding the boot over the cylinder, > locating the seal into the piston and easing(!??**?) the piston inwards and > finally locating the boot on the piston. > > Regarding the "almost everything", I had not noticed that the seals within > the pistons, as supplied with the new kit, were simply too big. Luckily I > had a pile of old ones and was able to go back to the original smaller size. > So, check the seals' size and save yourself some trouble. > > I used LM grease as a lubricant which, hopefully will be flushed out in the > bleeding/fluid renewal process. > > A footnote on the inner seals' profile. I remembered them as being tapered > and did find a reference to this in the Haynes manual: > > "9) To reassemble, first fit the internal seal, previously wetted with > Castrol Girling Brake Fluid, into the groove in the cylinder bore with the > scraping edge (smaller diameter) innermost". > > > > Simon > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com From richchrysler at quickclic.net Fri Apr 27 20:16:18 2012 From: richchrysler at quickclic.net (Rich Chrysler) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:16:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions In-Reply-To: <027f01cd24cf$094724a0$1bd56de0$@com> References: <027f01cd24cf$094724a0$1bd56de0$@com> Message-ID: <000e01cd24e4$e635a070$b2a0e150$@net> Steve, The rubber leading edge and bottom edge side screen seals have to be installed starting at the lower front corner. The rubber seal has a T section that must be forced into the extruded channel. You'll find that a bit of the T needs to be removed at the root of this junction for about 1/4" as there's no complete slot at the very front corner of the aluminum. Work by pushing the one side of the T into the groove, then with a flat blunt (not sharp) tool such as a flat bladed screwdriver, carefully push the other edge of the T into the slot. You can use a bit of liquid soap as a lube, though I find that a bit of silicone spray helps this go well and keeps the rubber from tearing or chafing from being too "dry" as it's being worked into the channel. I've never been able to draw the rubber along the channel very successfully unless it's just to adjust the fit a bit. I don't know what you are referring to re the mounting screws. The small Phillips screw at the top is just to pierce into and hold the flat rubber button shank that cushions the side screen frame from the top latch anchor stud on the windscreen frame. The other rubber button on the rear mounting iron that cushions the iron from contacting the door cockpit rail is a friction push fit. Rich -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Gerow Sent: 2012-04-27 7:40 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions Can anyone direct me to info on how to remove and replace the weatherstrip on the aluminum side curtains? Does one just remove the mounting screws that are in line with the rubber as well as the small Philips screw at the top? If I do that, can I slide the old rubber out and slide the new one in? Do I use soap for lube? -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richchrysler at quickclic.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 036.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 031.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of apr2411 034.jpg] From pyoas at yahoo.com Fri Apr 27 21:44:34 2012 From: pyoas at yahoo.com (Patrick Yoas) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 20:44:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] 7 Way Fuse Block Message-ID: <1335584674.64952.YahooMailNeo@web112509.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> There wasn't a Fuseblock for the BJ8's until Charlie and I figured out what I needed to do to make his "early car" work in a BJ8. I literally took the Fuseblock and turned it upside down. There is clearance issues between the main wiring harness and the oil line as well as the cluct hydraulic line. I only have another adjustment and I should be finished. The Fuseblock had to beturned upside down because all of the Green wires are on the left side of the Fuseblock on the BJ8's(this is facing the firewall from the front of the car), and the earlier cars have the Green wires on the opposite side. I am also running an Alternator and Neg. ground, Toyota 5-Speed. email me for photos of what I have so far. Pat Yoas From: "John Sims" To: "'chris.masucci at alumni.rutgers.edu'" , , Subject: Re: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block Message-ID: <085b01cd24bb$78768550$69638ff0$@verizon.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Charlie Hart at: hartcg at msn.com The one that he makes can be seen at: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Fuse%20Block.pdf I understand that he is making one up for a BJ8 which I understand may have to be a little different than the one that I put on my BN6. I just say that this was the easiest installation that I have made in a long time. Charlie also makes some other doodads that are great to have such as: http://www.healey6.com/Technical/Hart.pdf John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ From shop at justbrits.com Fri Apr 27 22:12:28 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 23:12:28 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100-6 Longbridge on eBay ! ! ! Message-ID: <4F9B6E2C.20904@justbrits.com> WOW, hope he gets the "Buy-it-Now" (or better) price ! ! ! *http://tinyurl.com/7qxuzmv * or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1957-Austin-Healey-100-6-Longbridge-edition-/140743860846?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item20c4fce26e Anybody know him/the car ?? Ed Please visit MY site at: www.justbrits.com From simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk Fri Apr 27 23:45:37 2012 From: simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk (Simon Lachlan) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 06:45:37 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 7 way fuse block Message-ID: <001a01cd2502$232cbff0$69863fd0$@lachlan@homecall.co.uk> Thanks for the info. Simon From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sat Apr 28 12:09:32 2012 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?Steve=20B.=20Gerow?=) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 10:09:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] =?iso-8859-1?q?Side_Curtain_Weatherstrip_Install_Questi?= =?iso-8859-1?q?ons?= Message-ID: <20120428180932.22127.qmail@hoster902.com> Rich, Thankyou for the detailed reply - it answered my questions. None of the various screws impinge on the channels into which the rubbers slide. >>> Date: Fri, 27 Apr 2012 22:16:18 -0400 From: "Rich Chrysler" To: "'Steve Gerow'" , Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side Curtain Weatherstrip Install Questions Message-ID: <000e01cd24e4$e635a070$b2a0e150$@net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Steve, The rubber leading edge and bottom edge side screen seals have to be installed starting at the lower front corner. The rubber seal has a T section that must be forced into the extruded channel. You'll find that a bit of the T needs to be removed at the root of this junction for about 1/4" as there's no complete slot at the very front corner of the aluminum. Work by pushing the one side of the T into the groove, then with a flat blunt (not sharp) tool such as a flat bladed screwdriver, carefully push the other edge of the T into the slot. You can use a bit of liquid soap as a lube, though I find that a bit of silicone spray helps this go well and keeps the rubber from tearing or chafing from being too "dry" as it's being worked into the channel. I've never been able to draw the rubber along the channel very successfully unless it's just to adjust the fit a bit. I don't know what you are referring to re the mounting screws. The small Phillips screw at the top is just to pierce into and hold the flat rubber button shank that cushions the side screen frame from the top latch anchor stud on the windscreen frame. The other rubber button on the rear mounting iron that cushions the iron from contacting the door cockpit rail is a friction push fit. Rich -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA BN6 From mark at bradakis.com Sat Apr 28 13:41:21 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 13:41:21 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net web server Message-ID: <4F9C47E1.6080207@bradakis.com> While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know. The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on are still unresolved. I'd rather be at The Mitty! mjb. From bighealey at charter.net Sat Apr 28 13:51:02 2012 From: bighealey at charter.net (bighealey at charter.net) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:51:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net web server Message-ID: <1146677785-1335642665-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-747177760-@b2.c9.bise6.blackberry> I believe paypal is doing maint they let me know for oher sites so pp may choke today. ------Original Message------ From: Mark J Bradakis Sender: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net To: healeys at Autox.Team.Net Subject: [Healeys] Team.Net web server Sent: Apr 28, 2012 12:41 PM While working on one problem I accidently caused another, as anyone who tried to get to the forums, the mailman admin page, the donate link or whatever during the last 12 hours or so would know. The server is now responding, though the problems I was working on are still unresolved. I'd rather be at The Mitty! mjb. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey at charter.net Sent on the Sprint. Now Network from my BlackBerry. From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Apr 28 14:36:15 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:36:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 white wheel wells Resolved possibly very boring!! Message-ID: With no one else reporting having encountered white wheel wells I decided that further research was required. This is a very early car #174 and if I'm going to spend my time restoring I really want to get it right. I had surmised that the white in the wheel wells may have been original because it had been painted directly over the black (primer) frame paint in the wheel wells. I had done a paint coat sequence check of the outside of the doors and front fenders and found that they were Healey Blue directly over grey primer!! (No white) Today I decided to try to get to the bottom of all this so I selected the drivers door for more intensive study. As noted the outer surfaces were Healey Blue over grey primer.applied directly to the steel. Inside the doors was Healey Blue over red oxide primer over black (primer) frame paint!! (Again no white!!) But the outside latch face of the doors provided the real story. Here we have a much more interesting sequence of paint layers. Starting at the steel we have black (primer) frame paint, red oxide primer, non metallic blue/grey, metallic Healey Blue, grey primer, white, grey primer, metallic Healey Blue. My bet is that this car was originally non metallic blue/grey... anyone care to comment or take a guess as to the sequence of paint procedures. One hint....The interior door liners have at some stage been removed and had red leathercloth over the original dark blue. A second hint. The blue leatherette was still glued in place in the sheet metal hinge boxes inside the front of the door. The paint under them was the non metallic blue/grey. Third hint..read the last paragraph on page 40 of Anderson & Moment. Michael Salter http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=756 On Fri, Apr 27, 2012 at 8:36 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > No Alan, > I don't think so. I guess you have to see how it was applied to appreciate > what I'm talking about. > This white paint was definitely applied to the wheel wells, and only the > wheel wells, over the black/brown frame and inner body paint. there is no > sign of over spray on other components so it was almost certainly applied > before the mechanical (Longbridge ) parts were installed. > I'll attach a couple of photos for Alan. Anyone else whants a copy let me > know. > It would appear that no one else has seen this before.. > I may be being a little anal about this but I just hate to delete > something that may have been installed when the car was new. > As they say when it comes to restoration "the devil is in the details". > Incidentally as I research things further it appears that this particular > car was originally painted "Gunmetal Grey" see Anderson & Moment pg 40. From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Apr 28 14:40:37 2012 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 15:40:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Pad Squeal Message-ID: Hi, I just replaced the pads on the rt front caliper that had one side sticking. I used David Nock's technique by pulling the thick side out and pushing the brake to free the caliper. It worked great. I pushed both calipers back in and installed new metal shims and new pads. But now I have a louder squeal than ever. I did not put shims in the left side yet. The squeal sounds like it is coming from the rt side I just serviced. Any ideas how to stop this LOUD squeal? Thanks, Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY From ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com Sat Apr 28 16:00:52 2012 From: ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com (Todd Taylor) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:00:52 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. Message-ID: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the king pins. Or is there something else I can use like nylon type. any one know what size they have to be?? I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping... I assume they are used to seal up grease. also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this?? my motor is out and there isn't any weight to work with. jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame?? any specail tools? spring compressor wont go up the center because there isn't any holes to go through.. From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Apr 28 16:23:22 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:23:22 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. In-Reply-To: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> References: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: Hi Todd, The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring. A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the spring plate up. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor wrote: > wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the > king pins. > Or is there something else I can use like nylon type. any one know what > size they have to be?? > I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping... I > assume they are used to seal up grease. > > > also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this?? my motor > is out and there isn't any weight to work with. > jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame?? any specail tools? > spring compressor wont go up the center > because there isn't any holes to go through.. From eandy01 at msn.com Sat Apr 28 16:33:27 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:33:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] great supplier In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Recently installed a "wink" mirror purchased from O'Reilleys. Found I needed 2 glue to the windshield mounting adaptors. Had just recieved a catalog from Pegasus. They carry a huge amount of obscure automotive equipment, stuff you can't find anywhere else. Brousing thru I saw they sell the wink mirror and adaptors. Called and ordered the two Came fast and I marked locations to glue the base plates and allowed to dry overnight. Put the adaptors to the base plates and put mirror on. One side came off at the base plate. I only then saw there was a clear rubberish piece stuck to windshield. That and the black plastic piece had come apart. Called Pegasus and told them about it. No argument at all, they sent me another one. When it came I looked closely and saw the clear rubber part was missing. Checked the one that had stayed on windshield and there wasn't a rubber part. That had to have come loose from factory machine and stuch on base plate. Wonder haw long it took before someone noticed. The point is tho this is a great supplier who stands behind what it sells. Call 1-800-688-6946 for a catalog From ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com Sat Apr 28 16:38:28 2012 From: ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com (Todd Taylor) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:38:28 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Pad Squeal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F9C7164.3080102@twcny.rr.com> see if some of that brake quiet spray works, it's worked for me in the past... stuff is like glue almost... On 4/28/2012 4:40 PM, scott willis wrote: > Hi, > I just replaced the pads on the rt front caliper that had one side sticking. I > used David Nock's technique by pulling the thick side out and pushing the > brake to free the caliper. It worked great. I pushed both calipers back in and > installed new metal shims and new pads. But now I have a louder squeal than > ever. I did not put shims in the left side yet. The squeal sounds like it is > coming from the rt side I just serviced. > > Any ideas how to stop this LOUD squeal? > > Thanks, > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com From ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com Sat Apr 28 16:40:36 2012 From: ttaylor33 at twcny.rr.com (Todd Taylor) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:40:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. In-Reply-To: References: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4F9C71E4.6090504@twcny.rr.com> what's the O ring made out of rubber?? any idea what size?? like for a sink?? On 4/28/2012 6:23 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Todd, > The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring. > A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the > spring plate up. > > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > > On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor > wrote: > > wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the > neck of the king pins. > Or is there something else I can use like nylon type. any one > know what size they have to be?? > I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping... > I assume they are used to seal up grease. > > > also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this?? > my motor is out and there isn't any weight to work with. > jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame?? any specail > tools? spring compressor wont go up the center > because there isn't any holes to go through.. From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Apr 28 16:41:27 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:41:27 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] great supplier In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120428184127.II2O7.157178.root@pamxwww02-z01> Don't know what a "wink" mirror is, but where doe it fit on a Healey? Could this be blatent advertising??? just asking. tom ---- EDWARD ANDERSON wrote: ============= Recently installed a "wink" mirror purchased from O'Reilleys. Found I needed 2 glue to the windshield mounting adaptors. Had just recieved a catalog from Pegasus. They carry a huge amount of obscure automotive equipment, stuff you can't find anywhere else. Brousing thru I saw they sell the wink mirror and adaptors. Called and ordered the two Came fast and I marked locations to glue the base plates and allowed to dry overnight. Put the adaptors to the base plates and put mirror on. One side came off at the base plate. I only then saw there was a clear rubberish piece stuck to windshield. That and the black plastic piece had come apart. Called Pegasus and told them about it. No argument at all, they sent me another one. When it came I looked closely and saw the clear rubber part was missing. Checked the one that had stayed on windshield and there wasn't a rubber part. That had to have come loose from factory machine and stuch on base plate. Wonder haw long it took before someone noticed. The point is tho this is a great supplier who stands behind what it sells. Call 1-800-688-6946 for a catalog Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From eandy01 at msn.com Sat Apr 28 16:46:56 2012 From: eandy01 at msn.com (EDWARD ANDERSON) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:46:56 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just guessing on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an actuator for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use something similar. Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there or Jag owners here. Help please. From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 28 17:13:23 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:13:23 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. In-Reply-To: <4F9C71E4.6090504@twcny.rr.com> References: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> <4F9C71E4.6090504@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <4F9C7993.40007@comcast.net> AFAIK, the only O-rings on the king pins are used to seal either end of the spring-loaded tubular dust cover. I think cork washers are still used on the lower trunnion (but I haven't bought a set in years). Any suitably-sized O-ring should work; just measure the diameter of the king pin and buy an O-ring; nitrile are best for oily environments. They might be differently sized. Bob On 4/28/2012 3:40 PM, Todd Taylor wrote: > what's the O ring made out of rubber?? any idea what size?? like for > a sink?? > > On 4/28/2012 6:23 PM, Michael Salter wrote: >> Hi Todd, >> The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring. >> A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the >> spring plate up. >> >> -- >> Michael Salter >> >> >> -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Apr 28 17:14:46 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:14:46 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120428191446.I0P66.157281.root@pamxwww02-z01> might try jag-lovers they have sites for XJ6's and other Jags. tom PS--if I was wrong on the Advertising post, sorry---just seemed strange to add a ph# for a suppliers catalog. no offense intended. ---- EDWARD ANDERSON wrote: ============= Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just guessing on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an actuator for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use something similar. Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there or Jag owners here. Help please. Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From jwhlyadv at aol.com Sat Apr 28 17:20:03 2012 From: jwhlyadv at aol.com (Jim Werner) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:20:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Estate of Don Lenschow sale Message-ID: <8CEF3AC92FBCA0D-374-D492@web-mmc-d02.sysops.aol.com> Kay Lenschow requested I help spread the word about this auction. Don was a great friend to many of us and he is missed. Saturday, June 9th, 2012 will be the date of an auction of Austin Healey, magic, photographic, and many other items from the estate of Don Lenschow. The auction will take place at Don & Kay's home at 467 County Road 4593 Boyd, TX 76023 Austin Healey-related items are being offered to Austin Healey friends before the auction, but this offer WILL end at midnight on 5/12/12 IF you want any of these items (some of which are rare and/or valuable) NOW is the time to act!!! Visit http://www.ntahc.org/ for more information Jim Werner Louisville, KY From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Apr 28 17:33:57 2012 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 17:33:57 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The XJ6 used a standard under the dash pull out handle connected to a big bell crank and cable back to the dual pull yoke. dave frogeye at porterscustom.com Porter Customs 2909 Arno NE Albuquerque, NM USA 87107 505-352-1378 1954 BN2 1959 AN5 Porter Custom Bicycles cars: www.britishcarforum.com/portercustoms.html gallery: http://picasaweb.google.com/porterscustombicycles/PorterCustomBicyclesStuff GO HERE: http://porterbikes.com/ nice pictures-fun facts-my world -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of EDWARD ANDERSON Sent: Saturday, April 28, 2012 4:47 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just guessing on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an actuator for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use something similar. Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there or Jag owners here. Help please. Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com From healeyrick at yahoo.com Sat Apr 28 17:59:00 2012 From: healeyrick at yahoo.com (HealeyRick) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 16:59:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] great supplier In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1335657540.66317.YahooMailClassic@web161204.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Add me to the Pegasus fan list. Their prices on Girling master cylinders are much better than the usual suppliers and they were of great help in providing an adapter so I could use my original oil pressure gauge on the Nasty Boy build. Fast shipping, too. Rick Follow My Nasty Boy Build: http://tinyurl.com/yj52fwo --- On Sat, 4/28/12, EDWARD ANDERSON wrote: From: EDWARD ANDERSON Subject: [Healeys] great supplier To: healeys at autox.team.net Date: Saturday, April 28, 2012, 6:33 PM Recently installed a "wink" mirror purchased from O'Reilleys. Found I needed 2 glue to the windshield mounting adaptors. Had just recieved a catalog from Pegasus. They carry a huge amount of obscure automotive equipment, stuff you can't find anywhere else. Brousing thru I saw they sell the wink mirror and adaptors. Called and ordered the two Came fast and I marked locations to glue the base plates and allowed to dry overnight. Put the adaptors to the base plates and put mirror on. One side came off at the base plate. I only then saw there was a clear rubberish piece stuck to windshield. That and the black plastic piece had come apart. Called Pegasus and told them about it. No argument at all, they sent me another one. When it came I looked closely and saw the clear rubber part was missing. Checked the one that had stayed on windshield and there wasn't a rubber part. That had to have come loose from factory machine and stuch on base plate. Wonder haw long it took before someone noticed. The point is tho this is a great supplier who stands behind what it sells. Call 1-800-688-6946 for a catalog Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrick at yahoo.com From steveg at abrazosdata.com Sat Apr 28 18:07:27 2012 From: steveg at abrazosdata.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 17:07:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes Message-ID: <029901cd259c$12a56ed0$37f04c70$@com> Edward, Could you be more specific on what you mean by the "actuator" you mention? I have the brakes and they're not installed yet. The Pliers clamping mechanism uses push pull rods just like the stock Healey system but needs more leverage or rotation out of the rotating lever mechanism. >>> Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:46:56 +0000 From: EDWARD ANDERSON > To: > Subject: [Healeys] rear Jag brakes Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Have hit a minor snag it doing the xj6 rear disc brake conversion. The hand brake requires an actuator. I called the local Jag dealer and the parts dept didn't ever list one for the xj6. So far I haven't been able to locate it or even a pic of one. Everyone just says they no longer exist. I'm just guessing on how it works, mechanical plunger w/return spring? Wondering if an actuator for another car w/4 wheel disc brakes might be used , they must use something similar. Guess as a last resort I could soapbox derby a stick to cable end w/piece of bicycle tire nailed on. I'm posting this here since I know there or Jag owners here. Help please. -- Steve Gerow Altadena, CA, USA BN6 From f.ronald.rader at gmail.com Sat Apr 28 18:26:48 2012 From: f.ronald.rader at gmail.com (F Ronald Rader) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 17:26:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] great supplier In-Reply-To: <20120428184127.II2O7.157178.root@pamxwww02-z01> References: <20120428184127.II2O7.157178.root@pamxwww02-z01> Message-ID: google it!! ron r On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > > Don't know what a "wink" mirror is, but where doe it fit on a Healey? Could this be blatent advertising??? just asking. From tomfelts at windstream.net Sat Apr 28 18:50:58 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 20:50:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] great supplier In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120428205058.S1GGK.225326.root@pamxwww01-z01> thanks--I did after I sent it out---not to bright of me. tom ---- F Ronald Rader wrote: ============= google it!! ron r On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 3:41 PM, Tom Felts wrote: > > Don't know what a "wink" mirror is, but where doe it fit on a Healey? Could this be blatent advertising??? just asking. Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From peter.svilans at rogers.com Sat Apr 28 19:28:17 2012 From: peter.svilans at rogers.com (Peter Svilans) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 21:28:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Early BN1 White Wheel Wells Message-ID: Fascinating bit of archaeology there, Mike. I've not seen your white wheel wells in my travels. For what its worth, I'm sending you a scan of a Rinshead-Mason colour chip sheet from 1954. It has no fewer than THREE shades of Healey Blue, each specific to a year. The attached formula tables show a FOURTH Healey Blue for 1955. The sheet was current with the actual cars being sold at the time, and so had to match what was being produced pretty well. - Ice Blue (non-metallic) 1953 - Ice Blue Iridescent 1953 - Ice Blue Iridescent 1954 - Ice Blue Iridescent 1955 While the formulas are no longer useful, comparing the tinting ingredients between the four shades of Healey Blue makes for an interesting comparison. For example, the 1953 shade contains both medium and coarse iridescent flakes, while the others have only coarse. Two shades include red or maroon tints, which are not present in the other two. Best Peter [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Nov 19540396.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RM Healey Blues I0183.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of RM Healey Blues II0184.jpg] From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 28 19:48:19 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 18:48:19 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again Message-ID: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)? Good sources? TIA, Bob -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From eyera3 at gmail.com Sat Apr 28 20:18:28 2012 From: eyera3 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:18:28 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Message-ID: I hear the archives are great place to look. Ira Erbs IT Consultant Portland, OR On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" wrote: > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein > (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)? > > Good sources? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > *********************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > *********************************************************************** > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/eyera3000@**gmail.com From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 28 20:36:24 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:36:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F9CA928.8050002@comcast.net> For dated information. I'm looking for up-to-date info (tire availability changes fairly often). Thanks for the enormously helpful suggestion, though. Bob On 4/28/2012 7:18 PM, I Erbs wrote: > > I hear the archives are great place to look. > > Ira Erbs > IT Consultant > Portland, OR > > On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" > wrote: > > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein (they're good tires, just wondering if > there's anything else available)? > > Good sources? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ahpowered at hotmail.com Sat Apr 28 22:43:02 2012 From: ahpowered at hotmail.com (scott willis) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 23:43:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: <4F9CA928.8050002@comcast.net> References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net>, , <4F9CA928.8050002@comcast.net> Message-ID: Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey. Thx Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY ---------------------------------------- > Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:36:24 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: eyera3 at gmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again > > For dated information. I'm looking for up-to-date info (tire availability changes fairly often). > > Thanks for the enormously helpful suggestion, though. > > > Bob > > > > On 4/28/2012 7:18 PM, I Erbs wrote: > > > > I hear the archives are great place to look. > > > > Ira Erbs > > IT Consultant > > Portland, OR > > > > On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" > wrote: > > > > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein (they're good tires, just wondering if > > there's anything else available)? > > > > Good sources? > > > > TIA, > > Bob From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 28 22:41:32 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 21:41:32 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. In-Reply-To: References: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120428213542.020f72d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> I recommend using treaded rod the same diameter as the bolts which I think are 9/16". My parts manual shows the bolts but the part number listing is not in it. I have made this repair a few times and every time it has been very difficult to get all four bolt holes centered properly. I believe it is because I have been using 3/8" rod. However, it could be that I cinched up the plate unevenly from side to side. You can get "O" rings to replace the cork ones. The cork ones can blow out very easily if you pump to much grease into the fitting. John At 06:23 PM 4/28/2012 -0400, Michael Salter wrote: >Hi Todd, >The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring. >A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the spring >plate up. > >-- >Michael Salter > > Check My Blog >http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > >On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor wrote: > > > wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the > > king pins. > > Or is there something else I can use like nylon type. any one know what > > size they have to be?? > > I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping... I > > assume they are used to seal up grease. > > > > > > also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this?? my motor > > is out and there isn't any weight to work with. > > jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame?? any specail tools? > > spring compressor wont go up the center > > because there isn't any holes to go through.. >_______________________________________________ >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >Suggested annual donation $12.75 >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > >Healeys at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > >Unsubscribe/Manage: >http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 28 22:56:58 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 21:56:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net>, , <4F9CA928.8050002@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4F9CCA1A.6040300@comcast.net> I've run a couple sets of Vred Sprint Classic 185/70HR-15s on my BJ8 with 6" rims (photo attached). Good on dry roads, not great in rain, abysmal in snow. The 185HR15 Sprint Classic is taller--of course--and looks good with narrower rims. The Sprint+ appears to be more of an all-season tire, but doesn't come in suitable sizes for Big Healeys. Bob On 4/28/2012 9:43 PM, scott willis wrote: > > Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey. > > Thx > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100-0049_IMG.JPG] From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 28 23:05:27 2012 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (john spaur) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:05:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120428213542.020f72d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20120428213542.020f72d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6.2.3.4.2.20120428220338.0208ae78@pop.att.yahoo.com> Hi Todd, The bolts are not 9/16. They might be 7/16". Sorry, John At 09:41 PM 4/28/2012 -0700, john spaur wrote: >I recommend using treaded rod the same diameter as the bolts which I >think are 9/16". >John From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Apr 28 23:05:41 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 22:05:41 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Cork washers for king pins, front springs install. In-Reply-To: <6.2.3.4.2.20120428213542.020f72d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> References: <4F9C6894.8060406@twcny.rr.com> <6.2.3.4.2.20120428213542.020f72d0@pop.att.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4F9CCC25.1000503@comcast.net> You have to pull up all the allthreads evenly. Lots of nut-turning; an air ratchet and deep socket (1/2") helps a lot. To use the socket, you'll also need to pull up the nuts on top and bottom evenly as well. 3/8" coarse is good (you could probably lift the whole car with a grade 8 9/16" bolt). Don't forget to re-install the brackets for the sway bar (of course, I would never do such a thing). Bob On 4/28/2012 9:41 PM, john spaur wrote: > I recommend using treaded rod the same diameter as the bolts which I think are 9/16". My parts manual shows the bolts > but the part number listing is not in it. I have made this repair a few times and every time it has been very > difficult to get all four bolt holes centered properly. I believe it is because I have been using 3/8" rod. However, > it could be that I cinched up the plate unevenly from side to side. > > You can get "O" rings to replace the cork ones. The cork ones can blow out very easily if you pump to much grease into > the fitting. > > John > > At 06:23 PM 4/28/2012 -0400, Michael Salter wrote: >> Hi Todd, >> The later and currently available kits just use a standard sized O ring. >> A couple of 6" sections of 3/8" threaded rod can be used to pull the spring >> plate up. >> >> -- >> Michael Salter >> >> Check My Blog >> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ >> >> On Sat, Apr 28, 2012 at 6:00 PM, Todd Taylor wrote: >> >> > wondering if there is a source for Cork washers that go on the neck of the >> > king pins. >> > Or is there something else I can use like nylon type. any one know what >> > size they have to be?? >> > I hate to put an order in for 2 washers and pay $6 in shipping... I >> > assume they are used to seal up grease. >> > >> > >> > also I have to put my front springs in , any ideas to do this?? my motor >> > is out and there isn't any weight to work with. >> > jack on the bottom will jack up the whole frame?? any specail tools? >> > spring compressor wont go up the center >> > because there isn't any holes to go through.. >> _______________________________________________ -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sun Apr 29 00:45:48 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 07:45:48 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Message-ID: Bob. Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres. They are expensive though. I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons. Derek www.healeysix.net On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:48 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein > (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)? > > Good sources? > > TIA, > Bob > > -- > *********************************************************************** > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > *********************************************************************** > ______________________________**_________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com From austin.healey at gmail.com Sun Apr 29 03:32:04 2012 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 19:32:04 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Message-ID: <75481ABF-9F94-47C6-9853-2144B0E7A15E@gmail.com> Tyres again. You had me at ZZ... Zzzzzzz Snore Zzzzzzz ;-) No disrespect. Just sleepy. ;-) Sent from my iPhone On 29/04/2012, at 4:45 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Bob. > > Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard > and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and > sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres. > > They are expensive though. > > I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same > dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons. > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > > On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:48 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > >> Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein >> (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)? >> >> Good sources? >> >> TIA, >> Bob >> >> -- >> *********************************************************************** >> Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net >> >> *********************************************************************** >> ______________________________**_________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** >> options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/austin.healey at gmail.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Apr 29 04:33:47 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 06:33:47 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Message-ID: Also Michelin XAS in--I think--180/70. Supposedly great--certainly expensive. Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:45 AM, Derek Job wrote: > Bob. > > Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard > and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and > sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres. > > They are expensive though. > > I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same > dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons. > > Derek > www.healeysix.net > > On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:48 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein > > (they're good tires, just wondering if there's anything else available)? > > > > Good sources? > > > > TIA, > > Bob > > > > -- > > *********************************************************************** > > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > > > *********************************************************************** > > ______________________________**_________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.**html< > http://www.team.net/donate.html> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/**listinfo/healeys< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys> > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/** > > options/healeys/derek.c.job@**gmail.com< > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Apr 29 06:02:41 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 8:02:41 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120429080241.M9HOP.170307.root@pamxwww10-z01> I've had them on my BJ8 and E-Type for a few years------Love the looks and ride. Maybe I can take a photo today and send to you. tom ---- scott willis wrote: ============= Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey. Thx Scott Willis Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA 59 MGA 66 E-Type FHC http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ BG Euro Classics Car Club President Bowling Green, KY ---------------------------------------- > Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 19:36:24 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: eyera3 at gmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tires Again > > For dated information. I'm looking for up-to-date info (tire availability changes fairly often). > > Thanks for the enormously helpful suggestion, though. > > > Bob > > > > On 4/28/2012 7:18 PM, I Erbs wrote: > > > > I hear the archives are great place to look. > > > > Ira Erbs > > IT Consultant > > Portland, OR > > > > On Apr 28, 2012 6:48 PM, "Bob Spidell" > wrote: > > > > Any ideas for 185/70-R15 or 185R tires? Anything besides Vredestein (they're good tires, just wondering if > > there's anything else available)? > > > > Good sources? > > > > TIA, > > Bob Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Apr 29 06:04:06 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 8:04:06 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: <4F9CCA1A.6040300@comcast.net> Message-ID: <20120429080406.LG6HI.170313.root@pamxwww10-z01> You drive your Healey in the snow? ---- Bob Spidell wrote: ============= I've run a couple sets of Vred Sprint Classic 185/70HR-15s on my BJ8 with 6" rims (photo attached). Good on dry roads, not great in rain, abysmal in snow. The 185HR15 Sprint Classic is taller--of course--and looks good with narrower rims. The Sprint+ appears to be more of an all-season tire, but doesn't come in suitable sizes for Big Healeys. Bob On 4/28/2012 9:43 PM, scott willis wrote: > > Does anyone run Vredestine Sprint Classics on their 3000? I have them on my E-Type and am satisfied. If so which size do you have on your Healey and do you have photos you can share? I have Michelin ZX 175 R15 which I love because they fill the wheel well prefect and look correct but I cannot find them anymore. I put the set on my MGA and now I want another set for the Healey. > > Thx > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 100-0049_IMG.JPG] Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tomfelts at windstream.net From tomfelts at windstream.net Sun Apr 29 06:06:36 2012 From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 8:06:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20120429080636.Q15UN.170325.root@pamxwww10-z01> Didn't know you could still get Avon's. ---- Derek Job wrote: ============= Bob. Avon ZZ s are excellant and have the right period look. They come in hard and soft compounds and are a road/race tyre used a lot by hillclimbers and sprinters rather than actual Dunop Racing tyres. They are expensive though. I have 185/70/15 Halda tyres on my other car. Although they are the same dimensions (supposedly) they look much fatter than the Avons. Derek www.healeysix.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 29 12:03:15 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:03:15 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers Message-ID: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> An off the wall request (pun intended). I am redoing my home/office which has golf themed border wallpaper at the top of the walls. Want to do it with a LBC theme. Anyone know where I can get this? I have been all over the internet today and can not find anything. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Apr 29 14:10:34 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 16:10:34 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: John-- There are numerous places online that make custom wallpaper and borders from your artwork. I have no idea of price but it is probably not that expensive and besides you're certainly worth it! Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:03 PM, John Sims wrote: > An off the wall request (pun intended). I am redoing my home/office which > has golf themed border wallpaper at the top of the walls. Want to do it > with > a LBC theme. Anyone know where I can get this? I have been all over the > internet today and can not find anything. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com From derek.c.job at gmail.com Sun Apr 29 14:42:32 2012 From: derek.c.job at gmail.com (Derek Job) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 21:42:32 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Comparison of Gear Ratios Message-ID: Hi all, For anyone interested I have prepared a graph comparing the following gear ratios. BN4 3000 Later 3000 Tulip Sebring The graph can be seen here http://www.healeysix.net/Gearratios.htm derek www.healeysix.net From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Sun Apr 29 14:54:49 2012 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 16:54:49 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <002901cd264a$515eb8d0$f41c2a70$@mindspring.com> You can do your own.... just take any jpg or bmp picture, go to your control panel, all control panel items, personalization, desktop background, and select the picture (jpg or bmp) as your new wall paper. These are ones that I've used: For the Healey Wallpaper.bmp file, I told the controlpanel/display settings/desktop to replicate the image so it is repeated all over the screen. For the picture of the open road, I merely told the controlpanel/display settings/desktop to use that image (sorry folk on the list, other than John you won't be able to see the pictures because they are stripped off) [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/bmp which had a name of Healey Wallpaper.bmp] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 0530-Lots of gorgeous roads to drive.JPG] From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Sun Apr 29 14:59:51 2012 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 16:59:51 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <002e01cd264b$05973250$10c596f0$@mindspring.com> Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper vice computer screen wall paper? Thanks -skip- From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 29 15:06:36 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:06:36 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: <002e01cd264b$05973250$10c596f0$@mindspring.com> References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> <002e01cd264b$05973250$10c596f0$@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <00cb01cd264b$f7053a10$e50fae30$@verizon.net> This is for the top of the walls in the room -- not the computer. Usually comes in a 6 inch or so wide 15 foot strip. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7 at mindspring.com] Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:00 PM To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'John Sims' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper vice computer screen wall paper? Thanks -skip- From tfsbj7 at mindspring.com Sun Apr 29 15:31:17 2012 From: tfsbj7 at mindspring.com (Skip Saunders) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:31:17 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: <00cb01cd264b$f7053a10$e50fae30$@verizon.net> References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> <002e01cd264b$05973250$10c596f0$@mindspring.com> <00cb01cd264b$f7053a10$e50fae30$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <002f01cd264f$69f97380$3dec5a80$@mindspring.com> Try: http://www.rollout.ca/printyourartwork.html -----Original Message----- From: John Sims [mailto:ahbn6 at verizon.net] Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:07 PM To: 'Skip Saunders'; 'Michael Oritt' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers This is for the top of the walls in the room -- not the computer. Usually comes in a 6 inch or so wide 15 foot strip. John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7 at mindspring.com] Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:00 PM To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'John Sims' Cc: 'Healey List' Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper vice computer screen wall paper? Thanks -skip- From phoenix722 at comcast.net Sun Apr 29 15:38:05 2012 From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:38:05 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: I think you're going to have problems finding this. Closest I've seen is Disney cars, which I don't think fits the bill! Some ideas: You might find a paper tablecloth and cut and paste You might find some decal-type things that would work. Stencils? I haven't seen any of these with LBC, but maybe out there in Cyberland there are some. Most of everything I have seen is either for a baby's room or a "cutesy" bathroom. Good luck. Mike ======================= ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Sims" To: "'Healey List'" Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 11:03 AM Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers > An off the wall request (pun intended). I am redoing my home/office which > has golf themed border wallpaper at the top of the walls. Want to do it > with > a LBC theme. Anyone know where I can get this? I have been all over the > internet today and can not find anything. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net From ahbn6 at verizon.net Sun Apr 29 15:52:58 2012 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (John Sims) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 17:52:58 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <00f501cd2652$711b7110$53525330$@verizon.net> Well, there are some companies that will do this based on photos that one supplies (thanks Michael Oritt) but for my home office it will cost around 250 smackeroos. Gotta find a way to get this done without the better half seeing the package arrive (much less the credit card bill - hey, on second thought not a problem -- I get them all electronically and she is computer illiterate). I would gladly do a bulk order if anyone else is interested so that we can get a volume discount but you guys would have to put up a strip of photos of my car. You could do worse! John Sims, BN6 Aberdeen, NJ http://www.healey6.com -----Original Message----- From: Mike Sinclair [mailto:phoenix722 at comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:38 PM To: John Sims Cc: Healey Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers I think you're going to have problems finding this. Closest I've seen is Disney cars, which I don't think fits the bill! Some ideas: You might find a paper tablecloth and cut and paste You might find some decal-type things that would work. Stencils? I haven't seen any of these with LBC, but maybe out there in Cyberland there are some. Most of everything I have seen is either for a baby's room or a "cutesy" bathroom. Good luck. Mike ======================= From eyera3000 at gmail.com Sun Apr 29 15:54:51 2012 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (I Erbs) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 14:54:51 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: <00cb01cd264b$f7053a10$e50fae30$@verizon.net> References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> <002e01cd264b$05973250$10c596f0$@mindspring.com> <00cb01cd264b$f7053a10$e50fae30$@verizon.net> Message-ID: Try a printshop that prints banners. They should be able to print it from yor artword On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 2:06 PM, John Sims wrote: > This is for the top of the walls in the room -- not the computer. Usually > comes in a 6 inch or so wide 15 foot strip. > > John Sims, BN6 > Aberdeen, NJ > > http://www.healey6.com > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Skip Saunders [mailto:tfsbj7 at mindspring.com] > Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2012 5:00 PM > To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'John Sims' > Cc: 'Healey List' > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers > > Perhaps I misunderstood.... Maybe you are interested in "paper" wall paper > vice computer screen wall paper? > Thanks > -skip- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -- Ira Erbs Portland, OR _______ _______ (______ \____1960 BT7____/ _______) (_________________________) From bspidell at comcast.net Sun Apr 29 19:48:33 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sun, 29 Apr 2012 18:48:33 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Comparison of Gear Ratios In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F9DEF71.2060607@comcast.net> Interesting. Thanks. Bob On 4/29/2012 1:42 PM, Derek Job wrote: > Hi all, > > For anyone interested I have prepared a graph comparing the following gear > ratios. > > BN4 > 3000 > Later 3000 > Tulip > Sebring > > The graph can be seen here > > http://www.healeysix.net/Gearratios.htm > > derek > www.healeysix.net > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 30 03:34:15 2012 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:34:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks Message-ID: Does anyone know who makes the reproduction jack handles for the Shelley LJ21 Jacks? Or on the off chance has anyone got a LJ225 with the reinforced yoke (Ca311) that they are looking to sell or would swap for the LJ21's. Thanks Andy From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 05:17:08 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:17:08 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem Message-ID: Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously something is wrong here! I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. Thoughts? Best--Michael Oritt From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Apr 30 06:00:58 2012 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 05:00:58 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> Reid Trummel had a batch made many years ago. I know they were correct for the 311, but probably fit other models (I bought one). I doubt he has any left, but he moderates the Healey Forum on the British Car Forum website so you could post the question there: http://www.britishcarforum.com Reid sold a 311 on eBay a while ago; IIRC it went for over $400. I have a 311--I'm going to use it to finance my retirement. Bob On 4/30/2012 2:34 AM, andy pole wrote: > Does anyone know who makes the reproduction jack handles for the Shelley LJ21 > Jacks? > Or on the off chance has anyone got a LJ225 with the reinforced yoke (Ca311) > that they are looking to sell or would swap for the LJ21's. > Thanks Andy > _______________________________________________ > > > -- ******************************************************************* Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net ******************************************************************* From gbrierton at hotmail.com Mon Apr 30 06:19:23 2012 From: gbrierton at hotmail.com (Gary R. Brierton) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 08:19:23 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry I can't really help, but could it be the infamous "LBC intermittent cardiac stimulator"? GaryB -----Original Message----- From: Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 7:17 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously something is wrong here! I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. Thoughts? Best--Michael Oritt Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gbrierton at hotmail.com From shop at justbrits.com Mon Apr 30 06:25:21 2012 From: shop at justbrits.com (" Just Brits " Shop) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:25:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey wallpaper - not for computers In-Reply-To: <00f501cd2652$711b7110$53525330$@verizon.net> References: <00af01cd2632$5a27a3e0$0e76eba0$@verizon.net> <00f501cd2652$711b7110$53525330$@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4F9E84B1.3060304@justbrits.com> Just have it sent to a fellow Club Member (with, say a BJ-7 or BJ-8 w/different Body Colour so it's NOT wanted), John ! Ed On 4/29/2012 4:52 PM, John Sims wrote: > Gotta find a way to get this done without the better half > seeing the package arrive From ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 30 06:45:21 2012 From: ronald-ray at sbcglobal.net (Ron Ray) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:45:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01cd26cf$1b202670$51607350$@net> Hi Michael, It does sound like a leak of sorts. But, it could also be a brake temporary locked up and the brake fluid overheated. That might explain why you cannot duplicate the problem in the garage. Ron -----Original Message----- From: healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 6:17 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously something is wrong here! I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. Thoughts? Best--Michael Oritt From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 07:54:38 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:54:38 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks In-Reply-To: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> References: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> Message-ID: While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1. I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side opposite the brand name. I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I would like to hear from them. Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate some good photos. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 08:01:07 2012 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 10:01:07 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Michael, My guess would be that the master cylinder seal is starting to fail. You will probably find that if you press VERY gently on the pedal it will ever so slowly go to the floor as fluid bypasses the seal. If you stomp on the pedal it will work normally. What happens in these cases is that the fluid pressure on the downside of the seal presses the seal lip in and makes it seal against the piston, if you apply pressure very slowly the pressure does not build up in the system quickly enough to press the seal lip in to the piston and the fluid flows past the seal and back to the reservoir. -- Michael Salter Check My Blog http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 7:17 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and > the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down > enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. > > After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was > normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic > fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so > returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. > > In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for > one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the > floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but > there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested > several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously > something is wrong here! > > I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that > the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front > and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake > line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. > > Thoughts? > > Best--Michael Oritt From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 30 08:31:37 2012 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 14:31:37 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks In-Reply-To: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> References: , <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> Message-ID: Thanks Bob, I'm on BCF as Andybj8. I didn't explain very well I'm after the Lj21 handles to sell as complete with the jack. Or to swap a 311 jack (already have handle) for the two Lj21 jacks. Didn't Reid sell a Lj21 for $365 odd as well, but with handles? Anyone know what Shelley jack uses the same handle as the 21? I did plan on trying to get one and see if I could get a fabricator to make some up. > Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 05:00:58 -0700 > From: bspidell at comcast.net > To: ampole at hotmail.com > CC: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks > > Reid Trummel had a batch made many years ago. I know they were correct for the 311, but probably fit other models (I > bought one). I doubt he has any left, but he moderates the Healey Forum on the British Car Forum website so you could > post the question there: http://www.britishcarforum.com > > Reid sold a 311 on eBay a while ago; IIRC it went for over $400. I have a 311--I'm going to use it to finance my > retirement. > > Bob > > > On 4/30/2012 2:34 AM, andy pole wrote: > > Does anyone know who makes the reproduction jack handles for the Shelley LJ21 > > Jacks? > > Or on the off chance has anyone got a LJ225 with the reinforced yoke (Ca311) > > that they are looking to sell or would swap for the LJ21's. > > Thanks Andy > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > -- > ******************************************************************* > Bob Spidell San Jose, CA bspidell at comcast.net > > ******************************************************************* From ampole at hotmail.com Mon Apr 30 08:57:14 2012 From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 14:57:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks In-Reply-To: References: , <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net>, Message-ID: Michael see: http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/shelley_jacks.htm Cheers > Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 09:54:38 -0400 > From: michaelsalter at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks > > While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1. > I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side > opposite the brand name. > I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I > would like to hear from them. > Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate some > good photos. > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ampole at hotmail.com From healeyron at yahoo.com Mon Apr 30 09:02:31 2012 From: healeyron at yahoo.com (Ron Mitchell) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 08:02:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1335798151.53789.YahooMailNeo@web161002.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi Michael, There is a small hole thatis located directly in front of the pressure seal called a Compensating Portthat allows fluid to flow into the master cylinder from the Fluid Reservoir. After much use the lip of the seal will develop a small groove where it rubs over the port as you apply the brakes. In time that groove will become deep enough that under pressure the seal doesn't expand enough in the area of the groove to seal off the bore and will freely travel forward. Until the groove gets big enough to be a complete failure you will experience the described problem on light applications of the brake pedal. If you apply the brake pedal firmly the seal will expand positively against the the bore but fluid will slowly bypass the seal as the seal relaxes. The symptoms you describe sounds like that may be the problem. You can sometimes evaluate this condition if you get someone to remove the Reservoir Cap and watch for a slight blip of fluid as you slowly apply the brake pedal. Hope this helps, Ron Mitchell BN6 BN7 ________________________________ From: Michael Oritt To: Austin Healey Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 7:17 AM Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously something is wrong here! I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. Thoughts? Best--Michael Oritt From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 30 09:13:08 2012 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 08:13:08 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Brake Pad Squeal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2324F903-4E69-4239-9C3A-BE89303590E2@sbcglobal.net> The piston the was frozen is probably not moving equally compared to the other piston in the caliper. That will cause the pads to no press flush on the rotor and then cause a squeal. The calipers will need to be rebuilt and probably new pistons. On Apr 28, 2012, at 1:40 PM, scott willis wrote: > Hi, > I just replaced the pads on the rt front caliper that had one side > sticking. I > used David Nock's technique by pulling the thick side out and > pushing the > brake to free the caliper. It worked great. I pushed both calipers > back in and > installed new metal shims and new pads. But now I have a louder > squeal than > ever. I did not put shims in the left side yet. The squeal sounds > like it is > coming from the rt side I just serviced. > > Any ideas how to stop this LOUD squeal? > > Thanks, > > > > Scott Willis > Mashed 60 BN7 AH Club USA > 59 MGA > 66 E-Type FHC > > http://bgeuroclassics.webs.com/ > BG Euro Classics Car Club President > Bowling Green, KY > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net From Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com Mon Apr 30 09:45:20 2012 From: Ken.Freese at Aerojet.com (Freese, Ken) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 15:45:20 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Tires Again In-Reply-To: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> References: <4F9C9DE3.9040202@comcast.net> Message-ID: <533B2E99494AFB4994A0675E031AF6331E3F5894@PRGMBX01.corp.aerojet.com> Pirelli CN 36's are available from some sources again in 185/70. I loved them in the 70's. Not Cheap. Ken Freese 65 BJ8 From michael.oritt at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 10:07:18 2012 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:07:18 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem In-Reply-To: <1335798151.53789.YahooMailNeo@web161002.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1335798151.53789.YahooMailNeo@web161002.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Ron-- Thanks for the good tip. Though the failure mode you describe does not correlate exactly with my experience in case the MC is up for removal, inspection and rebuild. Until then the 100's driving privileges have been suspended. Best--Michael On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 11:02 AM, Ron Mitchell wrote: > Hi Michael, > > There is a small hole that is located directly in front of the pressure > seal called a Compensating Port that allows fluid to flow into the master > cylinder from the Fluid Reservoir. After much use the lip of the seal will > develop a small groove where it rubs over the port as you apply the > brakes. In time that groove will become deep enough that under pressure > the seal doesn't expand enough in the area of the groove to seal off the > bore and will freely travel forward. Until the groove gets big enough to > be a complete failure you will experience the described problem on light > applications of the brake pedal. If you apply the brake pedal firmly the > seal will expand positively against the the bore but fluid will slowly > bypass the seal as the seal relaxes. The symptoms you describe sounds > like that may be the problem. You can sometimes evaluate this condition if > you get someone to remove the Reservoir Cap and watch for a slight blip of > fluid as you slowly apply the brake pedal. > > Hope this helps, > Ron Mitchell > BN6 > BN7 > > > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Michael Oritt > *To:* Austin Healey > *Sent:* Monday, April 30, 2012 7:17 AM > *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake problem > > Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and > the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down > enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. > > After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was > normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic > fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so > returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. > > In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for > one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the > floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but > there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested > several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously > something is wrong here! > > I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that > the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front > and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake > line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. > > Thoughts? > Best--Michael Oritt From healeyguy at aol.com Mon Apr 30 10:24:45 2012 From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 12:24:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [Healeys] Jacks In-Reply-To: References: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CEF504E340D04F-D60-14713@webmail-d030.sysops.aol.com> Mike I have a Shelley jack per your discription with DL. jack only. No handle or jack bag. I'll send photos in follow up email Aloha Perry -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter michaelsalter at gmail.com While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1. understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side pposite the brand name. From cynicbass at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 17:47:58 2012 From: cynicbass at gmail.com (Richard Korn) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 23:47:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks In-Reply-To: References: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> Message-ID: <85005F45-068D-492F-B75E-EC3A5880780C@gmail.com> Michael, There is an excellent article with photos by Roger Moment in the nov-dec 2011 Austin Healey Magazine about Original Equipment Tools for all Austin Healey models. Very well written with all jack models shown. Richard 56 BN2 w/LJ21 55 Sent from Ricky's iPad On Apr 30, 2012, at 13:54, Michael Salter wrote: > While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1. > I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side > opposite the brand name. > I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I > would like to hear from them. > Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate some > good photos. > -- > Michael Salter > > Check My Blog > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com From leavcast at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 19:08:27 2012 From: leavcast at gmail.com (George Castleberry) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 18:08:27 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper References: <2139795646.1614775.1335188084297.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Mitch, Has anyone mentioned soda blasting to you? I am curious to know if this is a viable option. George C 54 100 in need of stripping 59 AN5 driver Flagstaff, AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: caddi5 at comcast.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 6:34 AM Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry...........................I have used paint stripper many years ago and was just wondering if there were any NEW and IMPROVED brands avail. I think I will strip the hardtop by hand(sanding)..................doors (have them dipped chemically)..................and the shrouds using Aircraft stripper.(carefully) Thanks Again Mitch _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/leavcast at gmail.com From mayorrichard at hotmail.com Mon Apr 30 19:16:22 2012 From: mayorrichard at hotmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 01:16:22 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Rebuild the master cylinder. I had the exact same thing happen to me one time, only it was the clutch pedal. I stabbed the pedal again and it worked fine. Richard Mayor BN7L-466 Vintage Racer Portland, Oregon > Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 07:17:08 -0400 > From: michael.oritt at gmail.com > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Brake problem > > Yesterday while returning from a ride in the 100 I applied the brakes and > the pedal went to the floor--fortunately the emergency brake slowed me down > enough that I could negotiate the upcoming turn and come to a stop. > > After a few deep breaths I stepped on the brake pedal--this time it was > normal and the brakes functioned seemingly fine. I checked the hydraulic > fluid reservoir and it was full. I was less than a mile from the garage so > returned slowly though the brakes continued to work fine and got me back. > > In the garage I applied the brakes a few more times, all normal except for > one time when I held my foot on the pedal it and it went slowly to the > floor like I was pushing fluid out somewhere through a very small leak but > there were no leaks. Next push the brake pedal was high and firm. Retested > several times at 15 to 30 minute intervals--no problems, but obviously > something is wrong here! > > I haven't pulled the master cylinder off and apart yet but am thinking that > the return valve is somehow hanging up. FWIW I have a BT7 discs in front > and drums in back and a single circuit setup with a valve in the rear brake > line which serves as a poor man's proportional setup. > > Thoughts? > > Best--Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mayorrichard at hotmail.com From jodyfkerr at gmail.com Mon Apr 30 20:11:44 2012 From: jodyfkerr at gmail.com (Jody Kerr) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 19:11:44 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper In-Reply-To: References: <2139795646.1614775.1335188084297.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: It's a viable option, but does have it's own special set of drawbacks. Those are primarily the post blasting cleaning. I have a small cabinet where I soda blast parts. To get the soda off I then have to treat with hot water and vinegar, finally blowing dry with compressed air. Jody On 4/30/12, George Castleberry wrote: > Mitch, > > Has anyone mentioned soda blasting to you? > > I am curious to know if this is a viable option. > > George C > 54 100 in need of stripping > 59 AN5 driver > Flagstaff, AZ > ----- Original Message ----- > From: caddi5 at comcast.net > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Monday, April 23, 2012 6:34 AM > Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper > > > Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry...........................I > have > used paint stripper many years ago and was just wondering if there were any > NEW and IMPROVED brands avail. > I think I will strip the hardtop by hand(sanding)..................doors > (have them dipped chemically)..................and the shrouds using > Aircraft > stripper.(carefully) > > > Thanks Again > Mitch > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/leavcast at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jodyfkerr at gmail.com > > -- http://www.theymightberacing.com/ 1953 Studebaker Champion 1960 Austin Healey 3000 (BT7L/5479) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (14291) 1974 Jensen Healey MKII (18854) 1978 Triumph Spitfire (Mum's) 1981 Triumph TR8 1970 MG MGB 1980 Triumph TR7 "Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so." --Douglas Adams From scvc70 at epix.net Mon Apr 30 20:16:10 2012 From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards) Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2012 22:16:10 -0400 Subject: [Healeys] Paint Stripper References: <2139795646.1614775.1335188084297.JavaMail.root@sz0050a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: We have had a little experience with having items soda blasting -- works beautifully to remove paint from aluminum, not so well for paint from pitted/rusty steel. Haven't tried it on areas with bondo under the paint. Sarah Carr BN1 in PA ----- Original Message ----- From: "George Castleberry" To: ; Sent: Monday, April 30, 2012 9:08 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Paint Stripper > Mitch, > > Has anyone mentioned soda blasting to you? > > I am curious to know if this is a viable option. > > George C > 54 100 in need of stripping > 59 AN5 driver > Flagstaff, AZ From molony at dodo.com.au Mon Apr 30 22:19:34 2012 From: molony at dodo.com.au (Graeme Molony) Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 14:19:34 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Jacks References: <4F9E7EFA.8040802@comcast.net> <85005F45-068D-492F-B75E-EC3A5880780C@gmail.com> Message-ID: Richard Do you or any of the other listers Have the ability to forward to me a copy of Roger Moments article in the Nov/Dec copy of Austin Healey Magazine as I don't have access to same. I have collected various tools for my cars over the years including some earlier tools but am not 100% sure which models they may relate to. Any assistance would be appreciated Regards from down under Graeme BJ8 Email: molony at dodo.com.au ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Korn" To: "Michael Salter" Cc: Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 9:47 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Jacks > Michael, > > > There is an excellent article with photos by Roger Moment in the nov-dec > 2011 > Austin Healey Magazine about Original Equipment Tools for all Austin > Healey > models. Very well written with all jack models shown. > > Richard > 56 BN2 w/LJ21 55 > > Sent from Ricky's iPad > > On Apr 30, 2012, at 13:54, Michael Salter wrote: > >> While on the subject of jacks I'm looking for one for my very early BN1. >> I understand that this is a Shelley which has "6 INCH" cast into the side >> opposite the brand name. >> I recognize that this may be a tall order but if anyone they would sell I >> would like to hear from them. >> Failing that if someone has one and the time I would really appreciate >> some >> good photos. >> -- >> Michael Salter >> >> Check My Blog >> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cynicbass at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/molony at dodo.com.au